Moving Closer Together

L’Incontro. MOVING CLOSER TOGETHER

A private label under the name of the club promises to deliver fashion in-time.

No experience exchange group, no buying association, but an exclusive club of like-minded retailers - the inception of L’Incontro creates a new circle of premium retail players. The goal is exchange in the truest sense of the word. Text: Lisa Freund. Photos: L’Incontro

“The challenges you currently need to master as a retailer are elementary. We are in the midst of a change process and everyone is trying to find solutions in their own individual way. I often feel the urge to exchange information regarding this process. I’d like to ask others about their plans, to deliberate, and to provide each other with some feedback”, Katrin Kollervan Eersel said roughly one year ago. In the meantime, the idea has taken shape and her wish has transformed into a specific project. The club that connects Katrin Koller-van Eersel with like-minded store owners in Germany and Austria is called L’Incontro. “The ultimate goal is to create a real added value for all retail members.” It is, after all, only possible to convince retailers of cooperation if one offers tangible benefits. “We are all lone wolves, but once I visited and had long talks with all desired members, they all had something to think about. Is the lone wolf approach still up-todate? Wouldn’t we be better off as part of a network?”, the club founder explains. “Even the initial talks were impressively candid and inspiring - we became closer instantly.” The subsequent talks sharpened the profile of the proposed club. “The input from the members unearthed new priorities. The services the club offers reflect the wish lists of the members.”

Achieving More Together The basic idea to face challenges together has led to many practical ideas. One example, is exchange of information. A chat room connects the members from mobile to mobile. For instance, a member sitting in a Parisian showroom can now ask others about their experiences with a certain brand. “If one of the members discovers a new brand, he or she can easily tip off colleagues.” However, experience is not the only thing the members can share. “We offer an encrypted Internet platform that allows members to help each other out with goods. They can offer items that don’t sell to others or - what is more common - look for goods they need. This could be a Chloé dress in XS that a customer is looking for and that one can normally not obtain via the brand itself during the current season”, Katrin Kollervan Eersel explains. “Sometimes we even exchange decoration materials. For example, I ordered elaborate angel wings in the style of Victorias Secret for our mannequins last year. It would be a real shame to throw them away, but I can’t display them in our city for a second time either. So I simply passed them on to a colleague.” In addition, the platform offers goodies that the club negotiates for its members: excellent terms at hotels, suppliers, and service providers, as well as fresh ideas on how to generate more frequency and business. The latter can include social

The head networker of L’Incontro is Katrin Koller-van Eersel.

media training or fashion shows. The members enjoy discounts in this respect. These first case studies are merely the beginning. The club, which has five founding members, has been operative since early September. “Every new member allows us to take a step forwards.”

Plugging Gaps Intelligently Why it is so vital that the retailers have similar profiles - family-run, progressive in terms of style, and active in the upscale segment - becomes clear when Katrin Koller-van Eersel starts talking about another project: the L’Incontro fashion label. “We are not looking to create basics with an excellent margin, but fashion with an excellent margin. We strive to create a collection with short order and delivery rhythms, which are perfect for ensuring that the goods can be reordered when the first gaps in the product range appear. This could be, for instance, a certain lambskin coat, but in exactly that lightblue colour tone that has proven to be so popular this season. Our retailers ordered that coat early August and received their order in October.” In addition to the hard facts - for example a calculation factor of up to 3.2 - Katrin Koller-van Eersel believes it is very important to have an appropriate background story for the label. “We manufacture our products in small production facilities near Vicenza. These manufacturing partners also supply highly respected brands.” This aspect of the club makes it difficult to define the exact nature of L’Incontro. The club certainly isn’t an experience exchange group, a buying association, or an advertising union. “It is a modern club. We are young in terms of thinking, agile, flexible, and can adapt to changing needs quickly.” Katrin Koller-van Eersel is, however, adamant that she would never dream about questioning the regional exclusivity of the members. “Our members are far enough apart in order not to compete with each other. Seeing that this is guaranteed, everyone plays with open cards.” L’Incontro has big plans for the coming year: “We strive to grow, create new offers, and will work on joint solutions, for instance for the online segment.”

L’Incontro is the name of a club that connects upscale retailers, promises its members advantageous terms, and has developed a private label exclusively for its members. The membership fee starts at 299 Euros per month. The club only accepts applicants that are perceived as a perfect fit in terms of business profile. For a list of the first members and further information visit www.l-incontro.de.

The items are manufactured in small production facilities in Italy.

WANT iT

Diadora Heritage Made in Italy

The highlights of the Heritage Line of Diadora, an Italian sports equipment manufacturer, are its premium models, which are manufactured exclusively in Italy. To this end, the company has revived a production line consisting of old original machinery in the plant in Caerano di San Marco in Treviso after more than 15 years of standstill. Enrico Moretti Polegato, the president and managing director of Diadora, explains: “We are very proud that, in so few years, we have not only managed to lead the business back to international success, but also managed to reintegrate parts of our production capacity back into the company. This decision enables us to take maximum advantage of the expertise in terms of design and development of sports shoes that our region harbours. In turn, this allows us to supply our demanding customers with high-quality and innovative products.” The customers of the Heritage Line in Germany and Austria include household names such as Lodenfrey, Braun, Daniels, Breuninger, Sagmeister, and Dantendorfer. The international customer list includes the likes of Hanon, Patta, 24 Kilates, Kith, Packer, and Concept. The retail prices of the “Made in Italy” line range from 215 to 340 Euros. Diadora Heritage, Giovanni Calmonte, Caerano S. Marco/Italy, T 0039.01.119887811 , giovanni.calmonte@diadorasport.it, www.diadora.com

Tortona 21 The Elegance of Simplicity

Tortona 21 is the new knitwear line that complements the total look of Florence-based Antonelli. In line with Antonelli’s guidelines, Tortona 21 strives to highlight female elegance with elements of simplicity. Clear lines, deliber ately simple designs, and high-quality textures create ever new forms for an understated daily chic. The entire collection is designed and manufactured in Florence. The preferred materials are cashmere and linen. In Italy, Tortona 21 has approximately 100 retail customers, including La Tenda in Milan. In Germany, the knitwear line is represented by Vestitus, the agency that also handles the distribution of Antonelli’s womenswear. The exclusive Tortona 21 collection is stocked by German retailers such as Wirschke Düssel dorf, Daniels in Cologne and Munich, Möller & Schaar Frankfurt, KaDeWe Berlin, Burresi Wiesbaden, and Schnitzler Münster. The pur chase prices range from 80 to 200 Euros - with a calculation factor of 2.8. Antonelli Firenze, Milan/Italy, T 0039.02.25061272, showroom@antonellifirenze.com, www.antonellifirenze.com

8and7 Talisman From Another Planet

Detlef Block, a Munich-based designer, has focused Eternal-Eight-and-Holy-Seven, his accessories collection, on lucky charm symbolism and special materials. “Eternal 8” stands for infinity and is an attempt to convey the power of perfection, infinity, integrity, and perseverance in pursuing a liberated lifestyle. “Holy 7” is supposed to embody energy, joy, happiness, and a positive attitude towards individuality. For example, Block used parts of meteorites from Campo del Cielo in Argentina for one of his bracelets. This limited edition of 87 Deep Space Bracelets also consists of onyx, chalcedony, and - like all other pieces - 925 sterling silver. The retail price stands at 349 Euros with a calculation factor of 2.5. A necklace made of lava, sandalwood, and 925 sterling silver - with the symbolic name Earth S - costs 299 Euros. The collection, which includes bracelets, necklaces, rings, and pendants, currently consists of more than 60 models at prices ranging from 169 to 579 Euros. New models are being added to the collection constantly. 8and7 is currently stocked by stores such as Different Fashion Store in Mannheim. eternal-eight-and-holy-seven, 80807 Munich/Germany, T. 0049.89.55006311, info@8and7.co, www.8and7.co

Local Authority Rebellious Lifestyle

Local Authority Los Angeles embodies the cool and rebellious lifestyle of California. The label was launched by two friends from Malibu in 2014. The two founders have devoted themselves to a rock & roll vintage style against the backdrop of the young art and music scene, as well as the real underground culture of surfers, skaters, and bikers. The slogan for their fashion is “The Fucked Up Friends Club”. The casual look has already won over celebrities such as Gigi Hadid, Miley Cyrus, and Kendall Jenner. Every year, the label launches two collections with up to 20 styles. The t-shirts cost 48 Euros, while the sweaters range from 85 to 105 Euros. The calculation factor stands at 2.7. Brama started distributing Local Authority as of spring/summer 2017. The Brama Group is responsible for the European markets, the Middle East, and Russia. Brama Gallery covers the German, Austrian, and Swiss markets. In the US, the collection is listed at Maxfield, Hirshlifers, and Jeffrey’s. The list of German retailers includes household names such as Breu ninger, Petra Teufel, Pool, Jades, Stylebop, and Mytheresa. Bramhagen Aps, Copenhagen/ Denmark, T 0045.5373.0004, nina@bramhagen.com, www.bramhagen.com

Mastercraft Union Quiet Luxury

Mastercraft Union, a denim label, was founded by Japan’s Hiro Yoskikawa in 2012. His Selvedge jeans with authentic and unique washes for men and women usually feature a small stretch percentage, thus ensuring a very good fit. The label’s celebrity fan base includes household names such as Brad Pitt, David Beckham, Michael Fassbender, Gerard Butler, and Dominic Cooper. A special highlight is the range of denim fabrics that are blended with razor-thin paper fibres. All the fabrics used in the collection are sourced from Japan. The fabrics are manufactured in a family-run weaving mill in Okayama before being washed and sewn in the mountains of Shimane. The washes are achieved by utilising volcanic pumice and water from the mountains’ hot springs. The collection consists of approximately 35 items. In addition to denim, the label also offers a small selection of jackets, shirts, army pants, chinos, and t-shirts. The retail prices for pants with mostly slim and tapered fits range from 349 to 699 Euros. The list of customers includes household names such as Harvey Nichols, Selfridges, Abseits, Helmut Eder, Franz & Emil, Bazar Royal, Volls, Crämer & Co, and Pool. Mastercraft Union, Tokyo/Japan, info@mastercraftunion.com, www.mastercraftunion.com

Kanuk Light Down

In the 1970s, there was only one way to obtain suitable outerwear capable of coping with the harsh climatic conditions in Canada. You had to make the outerwear yourself! In 1974, Louis Grenier founded the Kanuk brand in Québec and chose the snow owl as its trademark and logo. This particular owl lives in the tundra areas and was selected as the official bird of the Canadian region of Québec ten years later. Today, the Kanuk collection boasts a wide variety of styles and colours for jackets and coats, available in eight sizes. The special feature of the down jackets: they are ultra light due to the fact that the down is layered with air. This results in a down fleece in the style of Thindown processing, which ensures that no down feathers can pierce the outer layer of fabric. Alongside style, comfort remains Kanuk’s main focus. Over the years, the brand developed and refined its sewing techniques in order to prevent cold air from entering through the seams. The purchase prices for the high-quality jackets and coats for men and women range from 130 to 260 Euros. The calculation factor stands at 2.8. All pieces are manufactured in Canada. Torsten Müller’s Room Nine Agency is the brand’s sales repre sentative for the German market. Tennessee Style AB/Kanuk Europe, Nacka/Sweden, T 0046.723.205025, jocke@tennesseestyle.se, www.kanuk.com