EAT & DRINK

Pho Ga

Pho Mimi

BY LORN RANDALL // PHOTOS BY DANTE FONTANA O n one of our area's late winter, faux-spring days, I felt the need for a soul-warming bowl of chicken noodle soup—Vietnamese style. You know the one: pho (pronounced fuh), Vietnam’s national dish whose beef-based versions boast a bone broth cooked for hours with star anise, ginger, fish sauce, and a few other conspirators, alongside rice noodles, herbs, and meat. When combined, the resulting bowl of pure umami is incomparable to other noodle soups.

I was prepared to eat to-go in my car, or perhaps in a park somewhere, but as luck would have it, Pho Mimi was allowing indoor dining. I decided to sample several items, beginning with their fish sauce-glazed chicken wings. To my surprise (and a little concern), the wings came out in minutes and were quite good: lightly coated with just the right amount of salty/sweet sauce and crispiness to make me ponder how they were cooked so quickly.

SERVED ATOP RICE NOODLES WITH PICKLED CARROTS AND DAIKON THREADS, LIGHTLY CRUSHED PEANUTS, AND CILANTRO, IT’S ONE OF THE MOST UNDERRATED DISHES (IF DONE RIGHT) AT ANY PHO HOUSE.

Báhn Mi Bún Thit Nuáng

I wanted to try one of my other Vietnamese favorites, bún thit nuáng (rice vermicelli with grilled meat) or #33 at Pho Mimi. I ordered the pork, and it was fantastic. The combination of marinade ingredients (lemongrass, fish sauce, and sweet, thick soy sauce) and pork charred over an open flame was irresistible. Served atop rice noodles with pickled carrots and daikon threads, lightly crushed peanuts, and cilantro, it’s one of the most underrated dishes (if done right) at any pho house.

Next, a sandwich that has garnered a lot of attention but rarely lives up to the hype (at least in our area): báhn mi. Pho Mimi's offering was a contender for best in the region. The fresh-baked bread was soft inside with a slight crunch outside, and included the same delicious pork as the #33, plus pickled vegetables, jalapeños for a hint of heat, and mayo…definitely not a subpar sub.

And now for the main event: Pho Mimi’s pho ga or chicken pho (#27). The dish was good with plenty of tender, sliced chicken breast, rice noodles, green onions, and accouterments (basil, bean sprouts, jalapeños, and cilantro), but it boasted a more subtle broth than I would have preferred. Maybe next time I’ll order one of the beef-based soups, as customers rave about the full-flavored richness of that particular, and more quintessential, pho broth. It's great to find another local, family-owned place that serves quality Vietnamese food; stop in and try a few of their healthy offerings. You'll be glad you did.

HOURS: 10 a.m.-8 p.m. (daily) TRY THIS: Chicken Wings, Shrimp & Pork Spring Rolls, Vietnamese Beef Salad, Pho Mimi Special Pho, Bánh Mì Sandwich, Vermicelli Bowl, Lemongrass Beef Noodle Soup, Vegan Fried Rice, Iced Condensed Milk Coffee, Mango Smoothie DRINKS: No alcohol TAB: $$ HEADS-UP: Vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free options; soups offered in small, large, or extra-large; online ordering; delivery available via DoorDash or Grubhub; open for breakfast; check out our sister publication, Style Savings and Entertainment Guide, for a coupon (10% off to-go orders)

25004 BLUE RAVINE ROAD, SUITE 121, FOLSOM, 916-542-7913, PHOMIMI.COM, @PHOMIMI121

Tell us about your experience and what you liked @lornwrites, @roundtripkitchen. com, or by emailing info@stylemg. com.