Glossy Magazine

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Adjoa Motto: Carpe Diem (just like Cher in Clueless...)

Cover Photography: Trudi Ferguson www.truferguson.com Stylist: Page Haggerty Hair: Fadhila Malki Makeup: Javier Martinez Model: Meijhan Mock @Front Models Miami

Richard Motto: ‘If all else fails, laugh.’

Writers: Anna Berrill Adjoa Gharban Juley Le Richard Malone Hollie Moat Laurel Waldron Laura Walls Lori Sherman Photographers: Trudi Ferguson www.truferguson.com Reno Ranger, www.reno-ranger.com Claire Pepper, www.clairepepper.co.uk Contact: glossymagazine@gmail.com Twitter - glossymag © Glossy Magazine 2009 - All Rights Reserved

Hollie Motto: Blusher and a black leather jacket can fix everything.


Laura tt Motto: tt “Without the bitter, thett sweet ain’t as sweet”.tt

Anna Motto: ‘In order to be irreplaceable one must always be different’.

s r o t u b i r t n o C Laurel Motto: “The best way to predict your future is to create it”. Abraham Lincoln

Lori Motto: “The more things you do, the more you can do.” Lucille Ball.


Acceptable in the 80s - Joan Collins and Linda Evans as their alter egos Alexis and Krystle Carrington work the sequins and big hair. Yay to 80s mania!


1 Three Trends To Wear Now – Stride stylishly into autumn with our top picks. 2 We Want Her Wardrobe: Cassie - Diddy’s protégé is scoring major hits in the style stakes. 3 Lure of the List – What is the enduring allure of those “it” items that remain so elusively out of our grasp? Richard Malone investigates. 4 Wintour Wonderland – Ever wondered what lies behind the perfect bob and dark glasses? Anna Berrill a former US Vogue intern dishes the dirt. 5 Blck – Photographed by Reno Ranger 6 Off The Beaten Path – Blogger Bebe Bozorgmehr gives us a sneak peak into her world. 7 Fashion Offspring – Posh, privileged and pampered the children of the fashion elite seem to have it all. But there’s one thing money can’t buy and that’s style. Hollie Moat separates the flashy from the trashy. 8 Style Stars – Forget Rachel Bilson, Zoe Kravitz and Kate Bosworth these stylistas show us how to work it. 9 Action – Photographed by Reno Ranger 10 Juley ♥ Glossy – You may know Juley Le from her blog Swank Heights. In her new column for “Glossy” she dishes on her love for food and fashion. 11 Taking It To The Streets – Have the streets become the new catwalks? Laura Walls has got the scoop.

12 Let’s Get Physical – Photographed by Reno Ranger 13 Glossy Peeps – Meet the people keeping us inspired. 14 Behind The Lens – We catch up with superstar photographer Gemma Booth to find out about how she got her big break. 15 Models Talk Beauty – Ever wondered if models are in on some hush hush beauty secrets that are being kept from the rest of us. Well we did some grilling and got them to tell us EVERYTHING! 16 Shh – Photographed by Trudi Ferguson 17 Label Love: e.g – Emerging label e.g. has got the fash pack brimming with excitement. Lori Sherman gives us an insiders view on the next big thing. 18 Sugar and Spice – Photographed by Claire Pepper 19 J’Adore La Couture – From striking ladylike silhouettes to flashes of shimmer and shine Laurel Waldron reports on the Paris Couture shows and shows us how to recreate the looks on a recessionista‘s budget. 20 The Reign of the Banging Baubles – Get Bauble-icious this autumn by hopping on the statement jewellery merry go round. 21 Style Musings – Say what? Fabulous Swarovski crystal encrusted words of wisdom from out favourite fashionistas.


Fendi Studded Leather Ankle Boots £640 Net-a-porter

Ankle Boots

Ankle boots are back in a big way. Dare to be different by getting the peep toe or lace up versions a la Alexa Chung. Team with harem trousers, a slogan tee, and mohair vest or jacket and you’re good to go.

Emilio Pucci Leather Mesh Peep Toe Boots £715 at Net-a-porter

Sequins Who doesn’t love a bit of sparkle? Well this autumn say boo to the drab weather by wearing the shiniest most sparkly tops, jackets, gold sequined dresses and scarves you can lay blazer by DVF your mitts on. As this is quite a bold style statement for maximum effect go for one stand out piece while keeping the rest of your look pared down and simple. If you’re not a magpie at heart you can go sequin-lite with a sparkly headband or hair clip...voila! Need a bit of chicspiration ? Sienna and Rosie work this trend to perfection.


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race yourself for an onslaught of fabulousness. This autumn/winter more is definitely more. It’s impossible to overdo it so pile on the sequins, rock the sharpest shoulders you can find and as for footwear well ankle boots will be replacing those muk luks.

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3 Big Shoulders We’re still firmly in the grip of Balmania so make it your style duty to proudly wear the puffiest pointiest shoulders you can find. Beyonce has taken on the role of unofficial ambassador for the sharp shoulders brigade inspiring us all to follow suit.


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e b o r d r a W e i s s Ca H

er tunes may not be burning up the charts but in the style stakes Cassie is definitely a hit!

P.Diddy’s protégé started off as a model and it definitely shows. She works the red carpet like a pro and whether she’s dressed up in Alexander Wang or just chilling out in a tank and a pair of jeans this girl has got all eyes on her. And she gets extra snaps for being one of the few people who can pull of the Alice Dellal/Rhianna half shaved head trend sweeping through celebsville. Cassie, we salute you



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hile checking my emails one day, I noticed one from Louis Vuitton, informing me of the latest limited edition Monogramouflage. To be honest, I didn’t really care for it – but out of boredom I followed the link from the email and proceeded to browse the collection. Each piece was sold out. I immediately rethought my decision to ignore this collection, choosing to call my closest store and see what I could get my hands on. Weeks later I was again browsing through a Louis Vuitton store when there they were – a stack of the belt I had rushed to buy, the one that I was assured was a ‘collector’s piece’ and ‘very rare’. Nobody seemed to care for them, the rush had long since died (including my own since the belt was slung in the back of my wardrobe somewhere). The lack of salivating buyers was very surprising for a limited edition Louis Vuitton collection, as they are known to be ultra desirable and hugely popular, gaining huge press and even bigger waiting lists. It opened my eyes to the fact that the way we are spending has greatly changed. Women seem to be leaning towards ‘forever’ bags instead of novelty or celebrity endorsed seasonal pieces – think Chanel 2.55.

Paris Hilton carries a Fendi B bag Let’s cast our minds back to IT bag phenomenon of the late 90’s/early 00’s, Chloe Paddingtons and Fendi B’s were all the rage, and for a while everyone had to have one, and most had to wait for one. Season after season, there was a new bag, carried by new celebrities, commanding higher prices and longer lists. After a while the bag would be everywhere, with knock-offs and replicas found throughout the high street. But for fashionistas after more than a transient fix the ultimate status symbol is still the Hermes Birkin – it’s always on trend, timeless, and most important, hard to get.

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The holy grail, a Hermes Birkin bag. Waiting lists, particularly at Hermes, have been questioned by many as a ploy to lure customers and guarantee sales. Michael Tonello, author of the book Bringing Home the Birkin, managed to buy 130 Birkins in a 3 month period, which definitely questions the elusive list. He made a fortune from commission by providing socialites and celebrities with Birkins and avoiding the ever increasing waiting period. It seems that you can walk into a store and pass something by once, but as soon as you find out that that it is limited or rare, it becomes a must have. We seem to be drawn to what we can’t have – and designers have certainly taken notice in recent years. People are less interested in following the crowd. Women today are looking for something versatile, but with a constant appeal - something that will not pack the shelves during future sales periods. This perhaps explains the 23% rise in Hermes profits this year. Waiting lists are in no way exclusive to handbags, or even luxury goods. Topshop and Club Monaco have recently had items wait listed, including coats and of course those wet look leggings (which appeared everywhere shortly after) and more recently, a pair of Emma Cook for Topshop boots, which had 20 people waiting for a size 6 alone! People seem to want to buy key pieces, but are opting for more middle of the range prices.


Emma Cook for Topshop boots It also seems that there has been a shift towards durability and quality. Women now want something that is not ostentatious - something that can be worn all day, every day and for longer than one season. Investment pieces were all over the latest catwalk shows, with designers presenting us with investment coats in camel and black and classic evening dresses that can be worn again and again - all with subtle details that set them apart from high street finds. We now look for good craftsmanship rather than throwaway seasonal trends. The two latest IT bag offerings are far more discreet than their predecessors, more ‘hush-hush and carried by those ‘in the know’, those that want to be ahead of the pack. They are not Gucci, Chanel or Fendi either – enter the Proenza Schouler PS1 bag and the Alexander Wang Coco Duffle. They are both unique, classic and chic – strong but also feminine. Note that there are no logos present on either, just subtle detailing and quality materials – a sure sign of the times.

The times ahead are quite uncertain for designers. Many predictions say that our previous spending patterns will not return until 2012. Previously, it was the coveted wait listed items (mostly bags) that counted for many of the fashion houses profits and often provided plenty of publicity. Now, fashion houses seem to make items in more limited quantities, keeping costs down and providing that scarcity that we all love so much. With less of us being lured by the list, however, we must question whether the days of the wait listed item are numbered. Are the days of the IT bag, the coveted shoe, or that must-have dress over? We’ll just have to wait and see.

Classic looks from Donna Karan (left) and Lanvin (right), Autumn/Winter 09/10 Proenza Schouler PS1 (top) and Alexander Wang Coco Duffle (bottom)


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oes the devil really wear Prada? Anna Berrill, a former intern at American Vogue, looks at what lies behind the bob and dark glasses.

1 x venti tea misto with 2 china green tea bags (remove before leaving) 1 x grande ice skim vanilla latte 1 x small steamed soya milk 1 x grande decaf latte non fat extra foam When the coffee list reads like a military manoeuvre it is no wonder that American Vogue demands such discipline. After all, the editor is as sure of herself as a General, and as immaculate. Like the military, she rises early; 5:45am tennis, 6:45am blow-dry and make-up, and in her office by 9am. Having been described as everything from ‘Darth Vader in a frock’ to ‘like the Pope’ Anna Wintour has certainly made herself the personification of Vogue. After dropping out of school at the age of sixteen, Wintour followed in her father’s footsteps, both professionally and in demeanor. Charles Wintour, the former editor of the Evening Standard, struck fear in his reporters and came to be known as ‘chilly Charlie’ – not dissimilar to ‘Nuclear Wintour’. Spurred on by her lack of success academically Wintour started her career at Harpers and Queens, followed by stints at House & Garden, Viva, Savy and British Vogue, before arriving as Editor-in-Chief of American Vogue in 1988. And it is here that Wintour has gone beyond her editorial domain. She has involved herself in the placement of designers at fashion houses, championing John Galliano to the position of chief designer at

Christian Dior, and is dedicated to the development (and selection) of the next generation of talent. She has further strengthened her influence over the fashion industry by cultivating an interest in product placement and franchising, placing dresses by her favoured designers’ on socialites and other prominent women all year round, rather than waiting for the $7,500-a-head Met Costume Institute Gala, as has been done in the past. Even when Wintour’s famous bob and sunglasses are not on the front row of the catwalk, she is not far from the minds of designers. Balenciaga’s Nicolas Ghesquiere has said that any designer who claims that they do not keep her in mind when working on a collection would be ‘lying’. And why wouldn’t they keep her in mind? Designers who fall out of favour are omitted from the magazine, once described by The


New York Times as ‘to our era what the idea of God was, in Voltaire’s famous parlance, to his: if it didn’t exist, we would have to invent it’ There is little left for the masses to discover about Wintour and Vogue especially since the fictional ‘The Devil Wears Prada’, written by former assistant Lauren Weisberger, laid bare life on planet fashion. The `conjecture that this was based on Wintour could be quashed or supported by the release of the real story - The September Issue, a documentary directed and produced by R J Cutler chronicling the creation of Vogue’s biggest issue (weighing nearly five pounds) of the fashion year. The cameras are never far from Wintour’s side shifting from the office to the runway to meetings to photo shoots. What does seem to emerge as the theme of the film, however, is the profound and touching relationship between Wintour and Vogue’s Creative Director Grace Coddington. The wild haired and make-up free (except for the occasional touch of lipstick) ex model was noticeably unhappy with Cutler and his team and resisted being filmed for months, even threatening to quit the magazine on several occasions. And this was only one of many collisions between the two: as Cutler explains ‘there is Grace, the person with the art and the craft, and there is Anna, who has the vision of the business…They can’t live with each other and they can’t live without each other’. A sentiment that Wintour, at the last possible point in the documentary, agrees with. With words like ‘juicy’, ‘remarkable’ and ‘great fun’ surrounding the film, and the trailer resembling an uncanny likeness to ‘The Devil Wears Prada’, it is easy to sideline reports that ‘The September Issue’ does a fantastic job of humanising Wintour. Rather than indulging in her stereotype and focusing on her private life, Cutler portrays her as a very driven woman and explores her managerial style - Wintour is involved in everything and retains complete control over every aspect of the magazine. But as editor-atlarge Andre Leon Talley explains, it is not a managerial

style that suits everyone, ‘It’s not like a tea party…she is not going to show you emotions ever, some people can’t cope with that, some people need to be loved’. Although Candy Pratts Price, Executive Fashion Director of Style.com, suggests that it is a reaction to people ‘wanting to be closer [to Wintour], but they don’t know how’. Coddington simply believes that she ‘enjoys not being completely approachable’; hence the intimidating rituals like the lengthy walk from her pristine office to her desk. But Wintour says it’s simply because ‘we are here to work’ and a lot of what is written about her and her imperial work ethic is unfair. She has been labeled a ‘man’s woman’ and is constantly criticised for things male editors are not, with no similar rumours surrounding other figures in the Conde Nast Publishing empire. Everything in fashion changes, except Anna Wintour’s position. But with twenty one years at the helm of Vogue under her belt some have suggested that ‘The September Issue’ signals her imminent departure. But who could replace her? Behind the speculation, bored tone of voice and folded arms, she is a good editor – surprising people by running pieces by Edmund White and Donna Tartt and an interview with Michelle Bachelet, the president of Chile. And she is more than just an editor. Her desire to be taken seriously, by her industry, her family and beyond, has not only produced fashion’s major reference work but catapulted designers like Marc Jacobs and Alexander Wang to the forefront of the industry. Who else could be, and want to be, such an icon in this multi billion pound industry? With Carine Roitfeld’s edgier style in Paris seemingly out of the running, is the catwalk clear for Moscow’s Aliona Doletskaya? Certainly the latter is formidable and focused. But as rumours come and go Wintour’s opinion, expressed in her own inscrutable way, remains the only one that matters. And we did once share a lift – both up and down.


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What inspired you to create your blog? I was always following other people’s blogs and I enjoyed it so much I decided it would be something I would like to try. At first I was going to make it only trend and fashion based to help promote my online store (www.collage-boutique.com), but it ended up being somewhat of a diary as well, thoughts, events, observations. Who’s your favourite designer and why? My all time favorite designer is Gianni Versace. I often wonder what he would have created if he were alive today. When I was in jr. high and high school I always dreamed of working for him, when he was murdered I cried for days. I think Donatella has done a great job, but I think Gianni would have had a much bigger impact on today’s fashion than she has. Other than Versace, currently I adore Stella McCartney, Alber Elbaz, Alexander Wang and I think Christophe Decarnin is doing amazing things with Balmain. Ive also always loved Roberto Cavalli.

What are your favourite fashion magazines and blogs ? As far as magazines I love all the usual ones, Vogue, W, Harpers Bazaar, Elle, etc. I have subscriptions to them all. I also love British Vogue and French Vogue (I absolutely adore Carine Roitfeld), ...blogs: I have so many but to name a few I love Karla’s closet (http://karlascloset.blogspot.com/), Knight Cat (http://www.knighttcat.com/) Jak and Jil (http:// jakandjil.com/blog/) Seasonal Lust (http://seasonallust.blogspot.com/), Nini’s Style (http://ninistyle. net/) Sea of shoes (http://seaofshoes.typepad. com/), Garance Dore (http://www.garancedore. fr/en/) Because I’m addicted(http://becauseimaddicted.net/), Le Fashion (http://lefashionimage.blogspot.com/), and The fashion Spot forums (http:// www.thefashionspot.com/) ! Who’s your style icon? I really love Rihanna’s style. I don’t always love her entire look, but she is always wearing something that I adore, and she always carries herself with such a confidence that everything looks amazing. She’s also such a trendsetter when it comes to her hair and tattoos and accessories. I love Daphne Guinness for how amazingly unique and gorgeous she is and all the risks she takes. And Carine Roitfeld for her effortless style.


What does a day in your life consist of ? I temporarily closed my boutique to focus on my online store, so currently I am busy with the final stages of the new site we will be launching in a few weeks. Most days I take pictures, plan future shoots and how we will style them, order new apparel and take buying trips. In the evenings I usually spend time with my boyfriend or catch up with friends. What does fashion mean to you? Fashion really is my life. Its what I live and breathe and my creative outlet. It really is an art form, and as the daughter of an artist I know I get the same rush and exhilaration from putting together a beautiful outfit as my mother does creating a beautiful painting. What would be your dream job ? I feel like I already have my dream job. I had the opportunity to run a boutique and I loved that, and now my focus is on making the online store a success and I truly enjoy that process as well. I just want to grow and expand and see what other amazing opportunities come my way. What trend are you loving at the moment ? I love the very 80’s sculpted shoulders and the edgier looks that are popping up everywhere. I love that sky high heels and platforms are in (the higher the better!) I have always loved flashier looks, oversized bags and jewelry, sparkle, embellishment.

What’s your style staple ? I have been living in my YSL tribute heels, I adore them. They go with so much and the heel is so high and sexy. I also have been loving blazers. There are so many styles to choose from and they can really transform a look. Are you a designer or a high street girl? I love a mix of both. I think there are certain things you should always have designer or pay more for and other things that don’t need to be expensive or have a label. A great blazer, a hot pair of heels, sunglasses, and your bag should be designer. You will usually get tons of wear out those things so its worth it and it really takes your look to a higher level. Basics and super trendy items that wont be worn much can be found in stores like Forever 21, Topshop, Mango and random online stores and you wont feel bad when you only wear it twice. Do you have a favourite model ? All time favorite is definitely Naomi Campbell. I still really love the 90’s supermodels and I don’t think any of the models today can hold a candle to them. But Chanel Iman is gorgeous and always catches my eye.


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ou’d never expect the children of a style icon to be really badly dressed, but it has to be said that when it comes to taste in clothes some got a little luckier in the gene pool than others. We look at a couple of our favourite fashion offspring currently making their bid to get on the best dressed list and see whether, when it comes to getting it right in the sartorial department, whether it really is a case of like mother like daughter.

Julia Restoin Roitfeld

When it comes to looking chic, you’d be pushed to find fault with Julia Restoin Roitfeld. The 26 year old daughter of French Vogue editor Carine Roitfeld can generally be found flouncing around in black leather and lots of eyeliner at only the coolest and most glamorous of parties. Consistently salivated over by the fashion press, Julia has a more interesting approach to choosing her clothes than most, claiming that she’d rather buy a skirt from a sex shop in Pigalle than pull something straight off the catwalk. That she can do this and only ever look

cool rather than slutty is surely testament to the fact that she’s a burgeoning style icon in her own right. No doubt there are parallels to her mother, an aloof elegance, a shared love of fur, an addiction to the colour black, and most importantly, the ability to consistently appear stylish without looking like they have made even a shred of effort. But then perhaps that’s not a direct result of being Carine Roitfeld’s offspring. That’s probably just down to being French.


Bee Shaffer In terms of personal style, you only need to take one look at Bee Shaffer to see that she has a serious case of mother knows best syndrome. But then given that her mother is Anna Wintour, editor of American Vogue, it’s hardly shocking. And following her mum’s blueprint of expensive looking hair, tasteful dresses, and strappy sandals seems to be working just fine so far. In fact, uber designer Oscar De La Renta has gushed of the twenty two year old, ‘She has inherited her mother’s fashion taste and ability’, which, given that Wintour is generally thought to be the most powerful woman in the industry, is a pretty big compliment. Still, as gorgeously glossy as she is, and though there’s no denying she can really rock the Park Avenue princess look, we just wish she could be a bit more youthful in her sartorial choices, because though chic and well groomed might be a winning choice for fifty nine year old Anna, it’s not necessarily the same case for the significantly younger Bee. And quite frankly it’s unnerving to see someone in their early twenties walking around looking so perfectly put together. That said, at this year’s Met Ball, Miss Shaffer turned up in an incredibly voluminous Nina Ricci affair, that, though generally found by all the fashion critics to be fairly hideous, was anything but middle aged or predictable. So maybe Bee will surprise us yet.


Georgia May Jagger With a Rolling Stone for a father, supermodel Jerry Hall for a mother, and siblings that include Jade and Lizzy Jagger, it’s really not surprising that Georgia May Jagger has found herself in the public eye. Where most 17 year olds spend their time doing homework and trying to sneak into the pub, Georgia May is appearing on the cover of Women’s Wear Daily and being papped sitting in the front row of Fashion Week. What is surprising is how she has managed to cultivate such an individual image at such a young age. A fan of clashing prints and bright colours, Georgia May tends to favour pairing eclectic looking dresses with interesting tights and hats for a look that’s about as London and of the moment as it’s possible to be. It’s a long way from her mother’s super glamorous approach

to dressing, but Jerry’s influence isn’t completely absent in Georgia’s personal sense of style, it’s more than apparent in the long, tousled blonde hair and lashings of red lipstick. And undoubtedly it’s a clever move, who better to pick up make-up tips from, than someone who used to get paid to be one of the world’s most beautiful women. With a rapidly flourishing career in modelling, a contract as the face of Hudson jeans, and a relationship with another celebrity junior (Django James, son of The Eurhythmics’ Dave Stewart), it’s very likely we’ll be seeing a lot more of Georgia splashed all over the gossip pages. But that’s okay, because it’s almost guaranteed she’ll be wearing something worth drooling over.


e l y t Ss r a t S

You know that double take you do when you’re walking down the street and spot some unbelievably cool girl wearing an outfit that you thought only existed in your wildest fantasies. Or is put together in such an interesting way you want to chase her down the street and ask where every item of clothing she’s sporting is from. Well these ladies made us do a triple take. Their personal style is edgy and experimental yet oh so pretty. And there’s no need for the embarrassing chase scene we’ve done the hard work for you. Meet our Style Stars

Leotard – American Apparel Skirt - Bebe Boots – Dolce Vita


Dress - Vintage Shoes - Vince Camuto

Age: 22 Location: Hollywood, CA Blogger www.ilovemartine.blogspot.com

Styling Tips: 1. Wear clothes that make you happy... ruffles and sparkles tend to put me in a better mood. 2. Remember that price doesn’t necessarily equate value -- beautiful clothing can be found anywhere from your mother’s closet to a local thrift store. 3. Don’t be afraid to experiment (ie. statement jewelry, bold patterns, extremely short hemlines) by pushing the envelope you discover what your own individual style is.


Mesh Body Con Dress - Vintage Red Blazer - Vintage

Body Suit – Am erican Apparel Trousers - Zara Gold Belt - Vint age Wedges – Steve Madden

Jacket - Mango Dress & Hat - H&M Bag - Primark Lond on Shoes - Vintage Pra da

White T- shirt – American Apparel Leather Trousers – Hot Topic Boots – Dolce Vita e Wayfarers – Vintag

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lossy columnist Juley Le describes herself as “a New Orleans girl who loves adventures in food and shoes”. Luckily she lets us tag along and every month takes us on an odyssey into her world. Readers often ask me about my obsession with food. How it relates to my love of fashion, why I make connections between the two, and why I insist on professing my love for them on all of my blog posts. Although unrelated in nature, the search for a perfect outfit reminds me of the search for a dish that is perfectly balanced in flavor. I feel like an explorer on a constant hunt. The satisfaction I get when I find that balance drives me to move onto other uncharted territories. As a disclaimer I’m no expert in either of the two. For expertise, youcan refer to Luxirare’s blog www.luxirare.com where you can always expect your jaw to drop when your eyes meet the intricacies of her designs and complex cooking techniques. Take away those expectations but trust that I know what best complements my tastes enough to blog about it. With outfits, I gravitate toward simple pieces that when combined, come off a little chic and unorthodox, yet they always accentuate my assets while hiding my imperfections. There are many elements to consider: presentation, texture, proportion, personal taste, and mood.


Due to the humidity in New Orleans and lack of swanky hotspots offered by a big city like New York, my looks are simple and are composed of basics from easily accessible stores. Expensive runway items are unnecessary, as these pieces wouldn’t be appreciated. And would likely be regarded by locals as trying a little too hard. My go-to summer day look has been a semi-sheer, oversized white Zara blouse, denim cut-off shorts, and flip-flops. If I were headed to Pat O’s piano bar with friends for happy hour, I’d layer my trusty Zara draped blazer over the blouse and slip on a pair of heels for a seamless night time transition. I’ve found that the same balancing strategy used to co-ordinate my daily outfits transpires to my taste in food as well. I don’t want to bore you by describing each and every one of my favorite dishes here, but I can say that they all have same things in common: they’re made with simple and fresh ingredients that produce pure flavors. For example, imagine a caprese salad composed of the robust flavors of Louisiana’s freshest tomatoes, fresh basil from Whole Foods, and the soft, creamy texture of Buratta mozzarella from my favorite cheese shop, St. James Cheese. There doesn’t need to be a lot of fuss or expensive ingredients, but one must strike a clear balance of flavor by layering slices of mozzarella

between each ¼ inch tomato slice and basil leaf. The cheese has to be fresh, or the lack of soft texture will force the tomato juices to leak prematurely. After the flavors are carefully layered, I’ll moderately drizzle olive oil and balsamic vinegar over the ingredients. Finally, just as a bold pair of shoes is needed to finish off any well-thought out outfit, I’ll add freshly ground black pepper and a dash of sea salt on top to marry all of the flavors together. When complete, the bold colour of the tomatoes and fragrant basil merge to create a welcome invitation to my taste buds on a hot Louisiana afternoon. With both food and fashion, I’m compelled to find that perfect balance. Sometimes it works wonderfully and other times I’ll fall flat on my face. The point of fashion is that you have to experiment but stay true to what works best for you. That experimentation can easily be translated to refining one’s taste in food. The same thought-out execution it takes to deliver a succulent salad is comparable to the confidence one must have to pull off a sheer shirt and cut-offs. And, just as one becomes satisfied with that balance, it paves the way for more expeditions for this fashionfoodie explorer.


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e’ve all done it at least once: felt irresistibly compelled to accost a complete stranger on the street because you simply couldn’t let her pass without finding out where she got that amazing pair of shoes / bag / dress. Impulsive encounters like these are usually met with one of two responses. If she’s of the ‘share and share alike’ school of thought, she’ll accept your compliment with good grace while falling all over herself to tell you what a bargain it was – and that it’s on sale at Primark round the corner for about £2.50. The alternative reaction, of course, involves being curtly informed the coveted item is a one-off family heirloom or was found in a thrift store somewhere suitably remote – so terrified is the victim that you might steal her painstakingly crafted look and morph into her doppelganger, Single White Female style. But, while the street ambush can be interpreted very differently from person to person, it reflects a growing trend across the board. Increasingly, style-conscious women (and men) are looking to each other – rather than the catwalks – for sartorial inspiration, placing greater value on the quirky individuality of the man or woman on the street than the contrived, perfectly packaged looks put together by the fashion elite. Could we be at the dawn of a new fashion age where the streets are becoming the new catwalk? One

person who knows more about the topic than most is New Yorker Scott Schuman, otherwise known as style blogger The Sartorialist. A pioneer of the street fashion phenomenon, Schuman started posting photographs of stylish individuals on the streets of New York back in 2005, after a career in fashion, which left him a little cold. “I always felt that there was a disconnect between what I was selling in the showroom and what I was seeing real people wearing in real life,” he explains on his website, thesartorialist.com So, it seems, did the rest of the world. Schuman’s blog quickly took on a life of its own, gaining plaudits across the globe and even leading to a spot in Time Magazine’s Top 100 Design Influencers list. Now, he’s about to see his street fashion shots immortalized in print, with the publication of The Sartorialist by Penguin Books. “This has been a labor of love,” he says of his latest venture. “Taking the pictures, editing the pictures, arranging the pictures…it’s hard to put into words how one feels looking at their own work presented like this - so I won’t even try.” If the inspirational shots on Schuman’s blog are anything to go by, the book will be a welcome addition to the growing genre of street fashion photography – and will look pretty impressive on your coffee table too.


o t t i g n Taki e Streets th Walls by Laura


But it’s not just cult bloggers who are taking the street style phenomenon to new heights. Photo sharing site Flickr is also credited with helping its growth in popularity. Another New Yorker, Tricia Royal, is the artist and designer behind Wardrobe Remixed – a DIY street fashion community on Flickr, which allows members to upload images of their outfits for others to view and comment on. It has nearly 13,000 regular contributors and a library of more than 86,000 DIY fashion shots. Inspired by Japanese street fashion magazines and early street fashion sites like the Icelandic www.hel-looks.com , Tricia began documenting her own daily wear in 2005, while still a fashion design student in New York. She explains: 

“I posted the photos in my blog and, immediately, the idea took off, with my blogging friends doing the same. One commenter on my blog suggested I create a group around the idea of posting one’s daily outfits on Flickr - and the rest is history.” When asked for her take on why the group has become so popular, Tricia says that accessibility is the key: “What we have been seeing in major fashion magazines and on celebrities is unattainable and frankly, out of the reach of many. “Women can relate to other women they see online more readily because they are real women, wearing real, accessible clothes. They can share who they are and get smart, positive feedback in return. This approachable accessibility seems to resonate with women very strongly. They feel like they are a part of something – it’s grassroots.”

Which brings us back to my original point. The appeal of the woman or man on the street is ultimately one of attainability – chances are, we could probably afford or find a similar outfit ourselves and, so the logic goes, if she can work that look, why not us? On the other hand, when a glossy A-lister or supermodel is papped stepping out of her limo, perfectly groomed and styled, there’s something inherently inaccessible and sanitized about the whole scenario – after all, they’ve probably paid someone obscene amounts of cash to ‘style’ them for the evening. In stark contrast, street fashion is gritty, genuine and personal. It’s happening all around us, not in some exclusive VIP club or invite-only catwalk show. And most importantly, it bows down to no rules. Long may its reign continue.

Street style images courtesy of Wayne Tippetts at www.streetstyleaesthetic.com Other Street Style Links: Face Hunter – www.facehunter.blogspot.com Jak & Jil – www.jakandjil.com Garance Dore – www.garancedore.fr/en/ The Sartorialist – www.thesartorialist.blogspot.com Streetpeeper – www.streetpeeper.com Copenhagen Street Style – www.copenhagenstreetstyle.dk



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Nicole Brunner, Actress How did you get into acting – is it something you’ve always wanted to pursue or did you just happen to fall into it? I’ve always enjoyed acting from a young age. Luckily, I had a lot of encouragement from my family/friends and that gave me the confidence to move to Los Angeles very soon after high school. What do you love most about it? I love becoming a different person, entertaining and hopefully inspiring people with a great story. Its challenging but rewarding too. What’s been your most memorable role so far? I have so many great memories of all of them. I can’t really choose one but I liked playing Beverly, a girl out to destroy her own wedding. She was fun. What’s the most salacious bit of Hollywood gossip you can share with us? My mom always told me to not to gossip so I’ll just say; don’t believe what everything you read, just know if it looks like a duck and quacks like a duck, it’s a duck.

Who’s your style icon and why? Kate Moss. I love how she wears her clothes and how she mixes different looks to make it her own. Every outfit I see her in I love! How would you describe your personal style? Its like a hybrid of glamourous with an edge, thrown in with classic and vintage styles. Its a healthy mix of masculine and feminine too. I can be a fashion risk taker and it usually pans out in a distinct look all my own. What’s the best/worst thing about living in LA? Best things would be the restaurants and beaches. Worst would be the traffic and the fake people. What would be your dream role? I would love to play a comic book heroine. I love comic books and action films. I’ve never had the chance to do a real action film before, so that would be very exciting.


Which Sex and the City character do you most identify with? Well, I almost hate to say it (because almost everyone does) but Carrie of course! I really relate to her daring style and her obsession with shoes. My friends always say I’m the ‘Carrie’ of the group too. Plus I love to write.

What’s your favorite label/designer and why? Yves Saint Laurent. They had these incredible patent leather platform sandals two winters ago that were just beautiful. Everyone was wearing them and they looked great in casual attire or an evening gown.

As an actress how does clothing/costume affect the way you interpret a role? Wardrobe is one of the most important aspects of really getting into the character. Its where the final transformation takes place. The clothes make you feel more like the person your portraying. I can see the vision and the collaborative effort of the entire production in the final wardrobe choice.

Which actor/actress would you most like to work with and why? I really adore Sam Rockwell. He’s so funny and cute, oh, and amazingly talented.

If you weren’t an actress what other profession could you see yourself in? Fashion has always been a passion of mine. I made purses and clothes all the time before I got too busy. So, I’m sure I would have worked in a fashion house or at a magazine. I still plan to launch my own clothing line including purses and perfume when I can focus on it more.

Who are your favorite tweet peeps ? My good friend AmyRoiland, she’s a great fashionista too. Comicinfo and Crashdowncom have great info. One of my favorite stylists TitoTamayo. Oh, and of course my new fav Stylebazaar! I love Twitter because of its ability to communicate so quickly with others. Nicole’s Twitter - Nicole_Brunner Photography: Patrick Roddie http://webbery.com/wp/


Alina Jessipovich, Jewellery Designer What inspired you to become a jewellery designer? I’ve always been fascinated by jewellery. For me jewellery is self-expression and a way of thinking. I started making jewellery as a child and growing up I continued developing my skills bringing my jewellery to a different level. When I did the Foundation course at London College of Fashion I wasn’t too sure what path to choose that’s when I met my very first jewellery tutor - Mr Gum. He showed me quite a few techniques and tricks and also encouraged me to make jewellery and continue my education in jewellery field. I’m really happy that I made the right choice. Which celebrity would you most like to see wearing one of your pieces? Gwen Stefani, Fergie, Lady GaGa What inspires you daily ? Open space urban landscapes, bright colours, small objects, people, dialogues, japanese toys How would you describe your amazing rings in three words ? Playful, Adult, Bling What motto do you try to live by? Everything is possible and your imagination is the key

Alina’s rings will be available to buy from www.style-bazaar.com from the middle of August.


Emmie Mccourts, Graduate Fashion Designer

www.catwalking.com

What inspired you to become a fashion designer ? Art and design have always been my natural interests and there was never any doubt that I would end up in a creative field. And during my A-levels it was fashion design that really shone through as the thing that excited and inspired me most. Moving to London to study fashion became the only path I could imagine and thankfully I have enjoyed every minute even though there have been some extremely disheartening and stressful moments and im sure there are an awful lot more to come. Working with designers including Richard Nicoll and Giles alongside my degree kept the motivation and drive going as they showed me what could be and allowed me to have a reality to aspire to. How would you describe your collection ? I was inspired by architecture and armour for this collection. My main aesthetic being strong and powerful whilst still retaining femininity and elegance. I didnt want the collection to be too restrictive or hard.

www.catwalking.com

I think there must always be a balance of say hard and soft or subtle and striking and never too much of one element this way it always remains exciting and interesting. My pre collection was inspired by various tribes and their costume and culture so I developed this collection from there. I’ve always been very into textiles and creating new texture with fabrics, as well as investigating how varied the effect can be of using the same technique but with different fabrics so throughout my research I was creating my own textiles which led to the development of the layering and looping which I carried through the whole collection in an array of different fabrics.


www.catwalking.com

www.catwalking.com

Would you say you get inspired by films or magazines or books? In terms of inspiration and initial research, Art and nature are what I always refer back to. I don’t really like to look at magazines and what other designers are doing. I prefer to take my inspiration from primary sources. I’ve always got my sketchbook with me so I’m always sketching out ideas and obviously as the research develops I will start to look at magazines for further inspiration but really my main fashion inspiration will come from looking at what designers were doing historically. Designers such as Poiret and Madame Gres are always inspiring to look at. Is there a particular celebrity you would like to see in your clothes? I haven’t got one particular person but I think Daphne Guinness is so exciting because she creates a look which is almost a work of art and more than anything a look which is completely unique and completely her own. I would love anyone who puts outfits together in their own way to wear my clothes and doesnt necessarily follow trends or wear garments because they are by a particulart designer or because it’s what theyre being told to wear. Young or old, whatever lifestyle, it’s the people who make it their own who are the most inspiring.

www.catwalking.com

Who are your favourite artists and designers? In terms artists I always look back to Egon Schiele is always a source of inspiration as his drawings are so personal and I love the unfinished and slightly crude quality of them. Also the work of constructivist sculptor Naum Gabo I find beautiful as his work is always very clean and powerfulk yet there is a huge amount of intricacy and detail within. His work is very architectural and anything strong yet fluid such as Frank Gehry and Calatrava I find hugely interesting. In terms of designers i dont have one designer I look to, I love looking at the very early work of Dior and YSL as well as the draping of Madame Gres. However I have huge respect for the contemporary designs of McQueen, Alber Elbaz and Ricardo Tisci at Givenchy. Do you have a style icon that you look to when dressing yourself? Kind of just really an amalgamation of everyone and anyone like I said I adore Daphne Guinness, but I wouldn’t say I was brave enough to dress like her!. I think Chloe Sevigny she always looks fabulous, I love the slightly unkempt yet beautifully dressed style she has. There’s not necessarily one person that I look to. I love Lily Donaldson as a model she’s my favourite model so anything I design I always imagine on her. She’s like the muse if you like.


www.catwalking.com

What motto do you try to live by? If you can dream about it then you can do it. I don’t believe that some things are for some people and not for others. I think if you believe in it and you really want it then there’s no reason why you can’t have it. Could you talk me through your creative process and how it all works ? Well as I said, art and nature are always the starting point . So in the beginning that’s all I’ll really look at. And for a few weeks I’ll do lots of drawings and I’ll collect lots of images - I’m always collecting things but mainly it is just the drawing. And I’ll collect fabrics - anything I think might work then gradually I’ll whittle it down. I do loads of samples to see how the different fabrics work together and mood boards, and then I will just draw and draw designs until i come up with the key looks im happy with. What would you say are your top 5 websites or blogs or magazines Net a porter is always great just to look at if you just want to have a quick look at let’s say the latest jackets as is style.com when you want to see a particular designer or collection. Magazines I like - 10 magazine, Ponytail, Jalouse and Tank magazine are great as i enjoy the mix of art fashion and design as well as them all being quite informative.

www.catwalking.com

What advice would you give someone looking to become a fashion designer ? Just to make sure that you know it’s exacly what you want to do and don’t be put you off by criticism. when I get criticised I kind of like it because it pushes me forward a bit more. Also, do it your way because everyone else has already done it their way and your way needs to stand out you can’t just follow everyone else or you’ll never rise above the masses. What future plans do you have for your collection and brand? Im doing a look book in the next few weeks which is being styled by Tena Strok who is a brilliant freelance stylist she has worked a lot with Harpers and Tank. I’ve also had a few comissions for my jackets and the collection has been shot by various magazines, most recently Ponytail. So I’m really just trying to get the brand recognised and hoping that people are inspired by the collection. I can’t imagine not having a future in fashion so im just taking things day by day and taking any opportunities that come my way!


How did you come up with the concept of mag nation? Mag nation is a family affair. My uncle and aunt in NZ were running a small store akin to a newsagency and after a few years of observing just how passionate other people were about their niche magazines, we realised that someone had to provide for this love affair, and it might as well be us. We then refined the concept over a number of years. It is not as if we got it right on day one.

Sahil Merchant, Chief Magazineo Founder of Magnation (www.ma

What’s your favourite magazine? I get asked this question a lot. It is a bit like asking me which of my kids I love the best. Even if you asked me what are my favourite 10 magazines, I would still say “pass” (but with a wink and a grin). What inspires you? Passionate people. This one is easy. I love seeing people putting in their heart and soul for things that they love. This is why I so enjoy dealing with niche publishers. These guys are never going to be rich, but they toil and labour over their magazines because they can’t imagine doing anything else. I don’t get inspired by celebrities or business personalities, but by ordinary people attempting extraordinary things. What’s the one piece of advice you would give someone who has a dream they want to turn into reality? There is only one sure way that a dream won’t turn into reality, and that is by doing nothing about it. Someone once asked me how I deal with the fear of running a start up business, knowing that any day something could go wrong and the business gets swept away from under your feet. I responded with an analogy to bungy jumping. I have never done it, but no one I know who has stood on the edge of that cliff for the first time has not felt some fear. Some people take a step forward, others retreat. I want to be the person that steps forward. Dreams will always just be dreams without that step forward. What’s the most glamorous thing about being an entrepreneur ? People thinking it is glamorous! Nothing else is glamorous when you really get into it. All the crap ends up with you, you work a million hours and never get to see your family. It is a massive sacrifice. That said, it is something I love not because of any perceived glamour, but because I am creating something new. I get a real kick out of this.

What’s the least glamorous thing about being an entrepreneur? Going to work every day and having to shoulder all the responsibilities. I would be answering this question and the last somewhat differently if you had asked what is the best and worst thing about being an entrepreneur. I obviously don’t think it is very glamorous at all, but I do love it and find it highly rewarding. I love not working for “da man”, and being able to be the master of my own destiny. How do you pick which titles to stock ? On gut feel. We look at various publications and make a call as to whether we think it will work for our demographic. With international publications, we can look at their international following and this helps inform us of the relative popularity of a title. With local mags, we have to take more of a punt, as we are often the first point of call for niche magazines looking to build a retail presence, and hence, there is little to no track record to rely on.


ologist and agnation.com)

How do you discover new publications do you ask customers, staff, friends and family ? All of the above. Customers are the best source, as they are much more expert than we can ever be. People are often surprised when I say this. We are experts in the magazine “category” but we can never be an expert in each of the tens of thousands of individual magazine titles in the world. Various title aficionados will often get passionate about a niche magazine and bring them to our attention before they are really well known. This is why a constant dialogue with our customer base is so vital to us. Which fashion magazines are most popular in the store? Self Service, Purple Fashion, Lula, Vogue Paris, Vogue UK, Russh... plus about 50 more I could have easily thrown in. The interesting thing about us is that we are not so spikey towards only a few titles, but we sell good consistent volumes of lots of different titles.

Arena, Vibe, Pop, Amelia’s Magazine and other mags have recently folded - do you agree with the view that print is dying and online is the way forward? We regularly get asked this question. Print is undoubtedly under pressure and will be rationalised. A lot of the generic middle of the road magazines will die, and we don’t see this as a bad thing. None of this is to say that the mags you mention above were generic and middle of the road. Each one has its own story and reason for closing down. However, we don’t think that print as a whole will die, as some things don’t translate well onto a screen. Moreover, where magazines become more than just a readable object but part of a wider brand strategy, they can not only survive but also thrive. If magazines are merely a “peddler of information” they face irrelevancy because with online content so readily available, information is now ubiquitous. The ones that build fanatical supporter communities will continue to do well. www.magnation.com http://blog.magnation.com http://twitter.com/mag_nation http://www.facebook.com/pages/magnation/54977292899?ref=nf


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How did you first get into photography? I have always loved taking pictures. I started seriously at Leeds Metropolitan University, I was on a Graphic Design degree but I was always the one in the dark room, experimenting. After college I wanted to be an art director. I was lucky enough to get to do work experience at i-D magazine. Whilst there I loved seeing all the amazing shoots coming in and it made me realize that’s what I had to do. How did you land your big break? It was whilst at i-D, after accidentally seeing some holiday pictures I had taken, Terry Jones asked me to go and photograph a club for them in Manchester. It was not a big break, but it was the break I needed to encourage me that I could do it. What inspires you? Old family photos (mine and other peoples, esp from the 1950’s-70’s), storybooks, movies, teenagers, my boyfriend, the sun, holidays. What’s your favourite place you’ve travelled to for work? I’ve been lucky enough to travel to many places for work. Japan is one of the most inspiring places I have been, their culture intricate handicrafts are incredible.

What would you say is the best thing about being a photographer ? Being able to make the things in your head turn into images to share with others. What’s been your favourite brand , magazine and/or celebrity you’ve worked with ? I like shooting fashion stories the most, when I can come up with the concept and see it through to the end result. It’s like making up your own storybook. I liked working for The Face magazine when it was going. Who would be your dream client? Sonya Rykiel, I love her aesthetic. What equipment do you use when shooting? Either my Mamiya 7, a Nikon D3 or a Hassleblad H3D. I still prefer to use film when I can. You have a very unique photographic style how did you develop that? I think my photos are just an extension of me and my personality. My pictures are not edgy or dark, maybe that says something about me. I didn’t develop a style intentionally, it just happened.



How do you get ready for a shoot ? I fill my head with ideas and usually take some reference with me to help communicate to hair, make-up and models what we are doing. I always meet models in person to make sure I feel like they have the right personality as well as looks. As I use predominately daylight it’s important that I visit locations at different times of day to check the light. What advice would you give to any aspiring photographers? Believe in yourself, don’t obsess about what other people are doing, persevere, and most of all enjoy what you do. If you are not enjoying it, there is something wrong. What do you enjoy doing outside of photography? I love England in summer, I go camping, running, have barbecues, go to festivals, and ride my bike, I don’t feel the need to get away. In the winter it’s a different matter, that’s when I would rather be somewhere warmer. I love being outside. www.gemmabooth.com www.santucciandco.com http://gemmabooth.blogspot.com/


Pippa What three beauty products could you not live without? Lip Balm, mascara and moisturizer What’s the best piece of fashion or beauty advice you’ve been given? To wear what you want when you want and to not be influenced by other people’s opinions Who’s your style icon and why? Mischa Barton, as her clothes don’t come across as too styled and are mostly casual but she uses accessories to make an outfit Where are your favourite places to shop ? My favourite place to shop is Zara because I can never go into the shop without buying at least one thing. I also love H&M and Topshop as they have a good range of different looks and styles as I change my look depending on what I like at that time. I am not completely set on one style or look.

What do you do to keep your skin looking clear? I wash my face every morning and evening and try to not fall asleep with my makeup on from the night before. I also drink a lot of water How would you describe your personal style? It doesn’t follow a certain trend if I like something I wear it even if it doesn’t go with the rest of my wardrobe What’s your ultimate beauty secret? After washing your face in warm water, splashing it with cold water helps to close up your pores and then dab the towel instead of wipe over your face to get it dry.


s l e d Mo k l a T

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odels always seem to have THE most perfect skin, hair and nails. Yes, we know it’s their job to look amazing but for the longest time we’ve been convinced that they’re hiding some centuries old beauty secret from the rest of us. So we caught up with a couple of rising stars to get the lowdown on their beauty regimens and must haves. All models are with FM model agency www.fmmodelagency.com

a i n o t n A What three beauty products could you not live without? Elizabeth Arden’s 8 Hour Cream, Dr Hauschka Toned Day Cream and Clarins Bodylift. What’s the best piece of fashion or beauty advice you’ve been given? Always be happy in your inner self. Who’s your style icon? Bridget Bardot, bombshell a la Francaise. Where are your favourite places to shop and why? What could be more indulgent than hunting for treasures in the flea markets of Paris or maybe Marrakech for some fabulous little finds. What do you do to keep your skin looking clear? A daily fix of homemade juices and plenty of sun cream even in the winter. How would you describe your personal style? Original, creative, oddball, outsider, romantic, eccentric rocker. What’s your ultimate beauty secret? Live each day as if it’s your last and never wear makeup to bed.


a k e b e R What three beauty products could you not live without? Mascara, lipstick and eyeliner

Laila What three beauty products could you not live without? Shampoo, body lotion, mascara. What’s the best piece of fashion or beauty advice you’ve been given? The more uncomfortable you feel, the worse you look, so always feel great and confident in your clothes ! Who’s your style icon? Hmm, maybe Cameron Diaz - she always looks perfect! Where are your favourite places to shop and why? I love Diesel, Esprit, Mango, Pepe Jeans, Zara... I always find something nice in there, the price is great, too! And the clothes suits my long legs!  What do you do to keep your skin looking clear? I use cleaning gels for skin, I don't use much make up every day and I am trying to use only good quality products! How would you describe your personal style? My personal style is very casual, I love jeans and T-shirts! Not very hot and glamorous, but I like feminine style! What's your ultimate beauty secret? 8h sleep every night, no smoking and drinking, and smile :)

What’s the best piece of fashion or beauty advice you’ve been given? Don’t do dark lips and eyes together!! Just one of them can be dark. Who’s your style icon and why? Agyness Deyn because she is different. Where are your favourite places to shop? Topshop, Zara, Levi’s, H&M because I like their style and they usually have the most beautiful clothes. What do you do to keep your skin looking clear? Everyday I use face wash that’s all :o) How would you describe your personal style? I don’t have one specific style. I wear everything I like...a bit of all styles!!!:) What’s your ultimate beauty secret? Bathing in sea water at the beach, you will have the most beautiful skin!!:)



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Report by Lori Sherman

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itting in the lounge of her east London flat, Emma Griffiths should be relaxing. She’s surrounded by endless fashion books and magazines – definitely enough style literature to keep a regular fashionista engrossed for hours. She’s sitting back in a large red recliner with a warm cup of tea, twirling the end of her freshly trimmed blonde mohawk. But Griffiths’ finds it hard to kick back, because this flat isn’t just her home, it’s also her work studio and the launching pad of her new fashion label aptly titled e.g. Her eyes drift over to the line of sewing machines manned by a design assistant and seamstress in the far right corner. “It’s looking lovely,” Griffiths hollers. “Seriously lush.” She gives a wink and focuses back on the task at hand. It’s easy to be distracted. She’s been working day and night on this collection for months. She eats, sleeps and sews all from the same location. And each piece, which as a whole make up what Emma lovingly refers to as her signature look, needs to be ready in just a few short weeks. Despite the pressure, Griffiths admits it’s hard not to be excited. With stylists from Hollywood making personal visits to the Spitalfields studio to potentially clothe their A-list clients in her designs - it’s clear that she is on the brink of style stardom. But her success hasn’t come easy. The 30-year-old is quick to admit she is the last person who thought she would be where she is today.

“I had a lot of really awful jobs,” said Griffiths who moved to London from her hometown of Cardiff a few years ago. “I mean – I worked at a nail bar. I hated it. I was a waitress for a while.” But it was her ‘awful’ job as a waitress in a local pub in Wales where she met her partner Jeanpierre Kalebic – the man who now runs the business side of her fashion label. “Jeanpierre was actually the person who first suggested I get into fashion,” says Griffiths with a smile. She moved to London with Jeanpierre and started searching for the right fashion school. “I’ve always wanted to do something creative,” says Griffiths. “Before JP (Jeanpierre) suggested fashion, I had been thinking about hair dressing. But I’ve always loved clothes and the idea seemed to fit.” The idea certainly did fit. Griffiths was accepted to Westminster – her first and only choice. She quickly enrolled in courses taught by some of her fashion idols. “In my first year I was taught by Zowie Broach of Boudicca. She was so passionate – with this no nonsense attitude. She inspired me completely. She embodied the type of woman I want to be and the type of woman I want to design for.” From there, Griffiths moved on to her second year, which she describes as a horrible, but necessary experience.


“It’s where they tried to weed out the weak – let the strong survive.” That meant a lot of long hours spent in the classroom. But through the hard work, Griffiths was able to hone her skills alongside design-great Alexander McQueen. She was one of only a select few who were chosen to accompany McQueen to Paris for one of his catwalk shows “It was definitely a challenge and opened my eyes up to what the fashion industry is really like.” In her graduating year, Griffiths was able to develop her own collection. She found herself returning to the idea of strong females – which she encountered with Broach in her first year. “I was using a lot of horse hair, swords, helmets,” said Griffiths – whose inaugural collection embodied an old-fashioned equestrian chic look with an undeniable punk edge. It’s the theme from that first collection that has remained with Griffiths now. Her clothes are undeniably strong and designed for confident women who demand respect simply by what they’re wearing. “The first word that comes to mind is fierce,” says Griffiths. “I’d love to be a really tough, edgy person. So, in a way, I use my designs to emulate the type of woman I aspire to be…. confident and fantastic.” Now, Griffiths says she draws inspiration from unluckily sources.

“I know it seems cliché, but I really love Madonna. Not Madonna from 10 years ago – Madonna now. Adult Madonna. She really holds the reigns.” Other strong musicians, like Beth Ditto and American songstress Ciara, have already requested Griffiths’ designs for themselves. Ciara appeared on MTV wearing a custom e.g. jacket. “It was all really exciting and celebrities definitely help the profile, but I design for everyone and I think every woman should feel as confident as a celebrity.” These days Griffiths admits she is feeling like the celebrity. The buzz around her new collection is reaching fever pitch. Journalists are calling, models are requesting Griffiths pick them to showcase her new designs – there is hardly a dull moment in the studio. But Griffiths isn’t letting it take away from her focus. She’s staying true to her beliefs, getting on with the job at hand, and trying not to worry too much about the future. “I think about today only. My plan is to go day by day. I’m a true believer in fate,” she says. “At the end of the day, I’m a woman who designs for women. I know what looks good. I know what feels good. I think people respond well to that.”


More information on Emma and her designs can be found on her website www.egfashion.co.uk or her blog http://egfashion.blogspot.com


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Vintage cream bra, stylists own Netting skirt, customised by stylist, priced individually, The Girl Can’t Help It at Alfie’s Antiques Market, www.thegirlcanthelpit.com or 0207 724 8984 Cream lace tights, £8, Topshop, www.topshop.com Bronze platform shoes, £655, Gucci at Larizia, www.larizia.com or 020 7722 5999 Scarf in hair, stylists own



Vintage gold dress, customised by stylist, priced individually, The Girl Can’t Help It, Alfie’s Antiques Market, www.thegirlcanthelpit.com or 0207 724 8984 Suspender belt, £25, Kiss Me Deadly at La Magia, www.lamagia.co.uk or 0800 311 2751 Vintage stockings, £5-£18, The Girl Can’t Help It, Alfie’s Antiques Market, www.thegirlcanthelpit.com or 0207 724 8984 Gold platform shoes, £655, Gucci at Larizia, www.larizia.com or 020 7722 5999


Silk bra, £25, Little Minx at La Magia, www.lamagia.com or 0800 311 2751 Silk pants, £20, Little Minx at La Magia, www.lamagia.com or 0800 311 2751 Silk suspender belt, £27.50, Little Minx at La Magia, www.lamagia.com or 0800 311 2751 Retro seamed stockings, £4.50, What Katie Did, www.whatkatiedid.com or 0845 430 8743 Silk scarf in hair, stylists own


Vintage floral bra, stylists own Vintage lilac Agnes B pencil skirt, stylists own Blue print socks, Tabio, ÂŁ9.50, www.tabio.com Bronze platform shoes, ÂŁ655, Gucci at Larizia, www.larizia.com or 020 7722 5999 Pink scarf in hair, stylists own


Armani

e r o d a ’ jcouture la

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he front rows of Paris were once again graced with the crème de la crème of the world’s fashion press last month, as couture week kicked off the new season in perfectly polished style. Contrary to popular belief, not even the platinum coated couture industry seems to be immune to the apocalyptic nature of the recession. When news of the near collapse of Christian Lacroix hit the headlines in May, the industry waited with baited breath to see who would survive to show another season. Nevertheless, as the pounding of Louboutins and the clink of champagne glasses echoed through Paris once more, the big hitters were back with a vengeance, valiantly standing shoulder to shoulder in renewed defiance; proof that the iron will of couture cannot be defeated. Ladylike silhouettes at Dior echoed the accentuated curves of 40s screen idols; the nipped in waists highlighted by oversized collars gave a nod to the New Look of 1948, perfectly accessorized with kid gloves and red lipstick. Perhaps in a subtle nod to our more trying economical climate, the ostentatious frivolity of past seasons appeared to be shunned in favour of a far more refined and altogether more subtly wearable collection, even the embellishments appeared somewhat more subdued and focused, as opposed to the all-over decoration seen in past collections. Throughout the couture collections the prevalent colour of choice was, of course, the ever elegant and eternally chic black. From sharp tailoring to flowing

Armani

aris P m o r F d A Postcar aldron lW by Laure

evening wear, textures were strong and contrasting across the board; delicate wisps of silk orgazna graced the catwalks at Valentino, sumptuous satins at Chanel, whilst Jean Paul Gaultier opted for an altogether more structured look. The other big trend of the week was shimmer and shine. From sequin prom dresses with smatterings of fairy dust, to gilded chains and full on sequined evening frocks sparkles were most definitely the order of the day. In spite of the apparent success of the couture industry, it is becoming blindingly apparent in these increasingly challenging times that as one’s crocodile purse strings must tighten, so too must one’s shopping habits. Although many of those to whom a couture collection is a seasonal essential may not be feeling the pinch quite so badly, for us mere mortals the thought of spending an average year’s salary on one outfit will have us reaching for the gin. Sales of sewing machines and dress patterns at John Lewis have skyrocketed this year from the realms of relative obscurity; therefore it would appear that as stocks plummet and markets tumble, a little beacon of creativity may be emerging from the carnage of the credit crunch. While for those of us with a fashion design degree the thought of whipping up a little couture isn’t such a feat, I can understand how some may find the task a more than a little daunting. Nevertheless, a startling trend is beginning to take the world by storm. Although we may have been embracing everything vintage for


Dior Dior

Dior

Chanel

Dior

Chanel

many a year now, it is becoming increasingly popular for us to unleash our inner seamstress and fashion our own fashion. The popularity of S-I-Y (Sew-It-Yourself…) has undoubtedly surged in recent years. Aspiring couturiers have long been frequenting London College of Fashion to take advantage of short courses in pattern cutting and sewing techniques, but this year not only are applications up 28%, but new courses have been introduced to cope with demand. I’m secretly rather smug that my mother has already taught me everything she knows, and hence I now feel one step ahead of the flock.


How To Couture Your Closet:

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ear not my friends, for it is surprisingly easy to create your own fashion masterpiece; you certainly don’t need a Masters from Central St Martin’s to achieve small wonders (in spite of what certain catwalk Wünderkids may lead you to believe…) Never say never girls – pick up a needle, you may just surprise yourself… There are a staggering array of amazing haberdashery outlets around where you can pick up a whole host of delicious trims, ribbons and buttons to customise your clothes. I have found just as gorgeous things in my tiny local sewing shop as I have in world renowned London haberdashers. If you see something you love buy it, regardless of whether or not you know its use! I have a huge box of treats accumulated over the years that I delight in rummaging through every season! Everyone knows that the one colour that will always be in fashion, season after season, is black. Unfailingly stylish, few have Karl Lagerfeld’s knack of re-invigorating it so stunningly with every new collection; yet with a few key ingredients, and a little insider know-how, your very own Chanel tribute could be right around the corner… Ingredients: 1 black blazer (£29.99 from Gap for similar try H&M or Zara) 2.5cm wide black velvet ribbon (69p per metre from my local haberdasher) black pleated satin trim (approx £3-£5 per metre from Kleins – see Little Black Book for details) 2 vintage glass buttons (£1.80 from EBay)

As long as you know how to use a needle and thread this really couldn’t be simpler. When sticking with one colour, especially black, you can really make an impact by combining textures; think stripes of velvet and satin, or a feathered trim twinned with grosgrain ribbon. Trims really needn’t be expensive; satin, velvet and grosgrain ribbons are available from all good haberdasheries, usually under £1 per metre. Unleash your creativity; try pinning different combinations to your jacket before deciding what to use. For my second attempt I decided to turn a previously uninspiring and, frankly, rather dull, jacket into a sparkling sequined masterpiece… Ingredients: 1 military style jacket (mine was originally from Primark about 4 years ago for £10 – similar styles are due to be hitting stores in the AW collections from August!) 4m thin gold cord (49p per metre from my local haberdasher) 2 sequined patches (£3.30 from Barnett Lawson – see Little Black Book for details) 2 shoulder pads (£1.99 from my local haberdasher) 10 gold buttons (60p each from John Lewis) Seriously, easy peasy; I had a rummage in my wardrobe for an old jacket et voila! An hour later and what had been dull and unworn was now an on-trend eye-catcher. Do not underestimate what you can do with a little time and creativity; give it a go and see what you can create…


Little Black Bo ok

Barnett Lawso n – an absolute Aladdin’s cave of trimmin gs! Ever ything yo u could possibly imagin e from silk flow ers to feathers, ever y kind of ribbon to fringing, tassles, sequins and bu ttons. 16-17 Little Portl and St, London , W1W 8NE www.bltrimmings .com (020 7636 8591) Ebay – don’t kn ock it until you’ ve tried it; from personal ex perience particu larly good for vintage trim s, antique lace, and unusual buttons - www.e bay.co.uk Fleamarkets – perhaps not so popular in the UK, but if ev er travelling keep your eyes peeled for fantas tic vintage finds . I have had great success in the past at Les Pu ces in Paris – www.parispuc es.com Kleins – anothe r emporium, jam med to the rafters w ith delights! 5 Noel St, Lond on, W1F 8GD www.kleins. co.uk (020 7437 6162)

John Lewis – br anches nationw ide, most with haberdashery de partments. Gre at for basics and ribbons ga lore! Check web site for details www.johnlewis. com Josy Rose – br illiant online on ly haberdasher, with a host of di fferent materials. www.josyrose.c om Liberty – stalw art London depa rtment store famed for delic ious printed fabr ics. Wonderful haberdashery de partment. Great Marlborou gh Street, Lond on, W1B 5AH (020 7734 12 34) www.liberty .co.uk VV Rouleaux – if heaven were made of ribbons, it would be VV Rouleaux … 54 Sloane Squa re, London, SW 1W 8AX (020 7730 31 25)


Louis Vuitton AW09

www.style.com Rihanna displaying her love for all things metal

www.style.com

Louis Vuitton SS09


e h t f o n g i e R e h T s e l b u a B harban G a o j d A by

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f Balenciaga’s crystal necklaces defined winter 09’s austerity, then the dramatic over-sized jewellery of 2010 highlights fashion’s optimistic new mood. Update your style not with the “it” bag or “it” shoe but the bauble. If there were ever a piece of sartorial advice that could stand the test of time it would be the old classic: “accessories make the outfit.” I have never been one to underestimate the impact of a giant cocktail ring when wearing an understated shift or the sudden injection of chic when an opulent necklace is teamed with skinny denim and a t-shirt. With the dreaded recession making even the most hardened fashion lover retreat to old favourites, the role of mind-blowing jewellery has definitely come to the fore over the last few seasons. And why not? More boring members of society say ostentatious jewellery is tacky and tasteless but I say it simply lifts the mood. From Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 09 African inspired collection, with chunky wooden hoops in gold and orange through to the Louis Vuitton Autumn/Winter 09 collection, which was overflowing with paper-chain inspired chokers in gold and black rubber, statement jewellery has never been so daring. Glossy’s favourite and fashion girl of the moment Rihanna is definitely feeling the bauble. Spotted in her usual high-fash get-up consisting of a Christopher Kane

Gorilla print mini-dress, she upgraded her look with a bold chain choker and she was only running errands! Although you need not be an RnB diva to pull off the bauble, after all the biggest appeal of the trend is its easy and instant pay-off. Grab some bangles and line them up the arm, drape yourself in a multistring necklace, hang ornate earrings about yourself. Dressed in Even the plainest of outfits, the bauble is your ultimate saviour. Unlike clothing the role of jewellery was a little quieter at the start of the noughties. With the likes Jennifer Lopez and Lily Allen (before her Karl Lagerfeld make-over) donning oversized door-knocker hoops c.2005, inevitably the fashionista felt a little at risk of looking cheap when it came to adorning herself. Thanks to a long-line of emerging costume jewellery lines (House of Harlow, Kenneth Jay Lane, YSL) as well as high-end designers investing in their jewellery collections as much as their leather accessories, baubles have never been easier to wear, hotter or better designed. Some girls say they have a shoe-thing…my fetish of choice is definitely the bauble.

Which Bauble-Girl are you? Remember the bling-bling era died with 50 Cent’s music career and the quote is: “accessories make the outfit” not are the outfit. So even though the bauble is the choice accessory of the moment, be sure to match them to your style.

The Intellectualist

www.style.com

How to spot her: This is a woman who lets her bold jewellery do the talking. Jewellery for her is simply a way to draw attention to the crispness of her white shirt whilst she’s busy doing The Times Crossword Jewellery Style: Dries Van Noten over-sized circle jewellery S/S09

www.style.com


The Hippy Chic(k) How to spot her: The anti-bling queen, this girl embraces all things laid-back. You will NEVER see her in Lycra but you will see her in stacked platforms and socks. Jewellery style: Anything that she can sling around her neck with nonchalance, so Burberry’s A/ W09 is her ideal.

www.style.com

www.style.com

The Prettiest of Them All

www.style.com

www.style.com

How to Spot her: She never looks like anything but perfection and loves a pastel hue. Jewellery Style: Pretty is as pretty does. Anything beaded, crystal or fuchsia makes her heart skip a beat. Checkout Olivier Theyskens at Nina Ricci A/W09 for her dream neck-piece.

www.style.com

www.style.com

The Hard-Edged Fashionista How to Spot her: This season she’ll be wearing next season. That’s all. Jewellery Style: Gold is her preferred metal as less people wear it and she loves anything outrageously chunky. Designer of choice? One word: Lanvin


“Style is prim a matter of ins rily a tinct.” Bill Blas

nal” r e t e s i e l ade, sty f s n o i h s “Fa St Laurent

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oron’t be b d s i e l u r u “The only s cute wherever yo s re ing and d short to blend in.” to go. Life is n Paris Hilto

“I don’t desig n I design drea clothes ms” Ralph La uren

ency” r r u c y m e is “My imag Iman

“Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street, hashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happ ening.” Coco Chanel

“About half my designs are controlled fantasy, 15 per cent are total madness and the rest are bread and butter designs” Manolo Blahnik

ork to New Y d e v o m t rs o “When I fi lly broke, I used t tota er. and was d of dinn a e t s n i e buy Vogu e more.” dm I felt it fe w, dsha Carrie Bra y Cit Sex & The


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