DANSK Daily Friday August 13 by Jacob Petersen

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Copenhagen Fashion Week

Max Factor Look of the Day: Jean// Phillip

Cover Photo, Wood Wood, by Anders von Greffelstejn

friday. 13.08.10. SS11

Anders Sølvsten Thomsen, Voice of Fashion

Today’s shows: Margit Brandt, Terminal2, Peter Jensen

Dansk Daily SS11 Friday 13.08.10 – PG. 2 – Editorial

Raising the Bar

Publishers DANSK Magazine Copenhagen Fashion Week Editor-in-chief Chris Pedersen Editor / Project Coordinator Rozanna Fritz Project Coordinator Jens Løkke Subeditor Magnus Jorem Beauty Editor Mikkel Hyldebrandt Executive Editor Anne Christine Persson Art Direction / Graphic Design Applied Projects / applied.dk Rune Høgsberg & Michael Mandrup Illustrations Laura Silkeberg Nielsen Project Assistant Michaela Skovgaard Sales Representative Jens Løkke Writers Elsebeth Mouritzen Eva Rhode Mikkel Hyldebrandt Moussa Mchangama Rikke Dyrholm Susanne Madsen Photographers: Anders von Greffelstejn, andersvonGreffelstejn.com Simon B. Mørch, simon.tumblr.com Sacha Maric, sachamaric.com Editorial assistants Cathrine Møss Cecilie Thorsmark Distribution Cathrine Møss Amalie Ramsby

Today at the Jean//Phillip show, I was pleased to see a young designer’s efforts bear fruit with a more mature collection that emphasized fit and texture over embellishments and novelty. Meanwhile, other designers are raising the bar for Scandinavian fashion within a number of different fashion realms. Vilsbøl de Arce is upping the ante for dark fashion by exploring the relationship between body and cloth, skin and fabrics. The Moonspoon Saloon collective have also pushed the envelope for fashion by blurring the line between performance art and style. Peter Jensen just keeps racing his label forward with a very Jensen, very eclectic concoction of schoolboy charms, gold accessories and cool graphic prints. And I’m looking forward to seeing what Swedish minimarket have in store for us tomorrow that might take their playful design DNA to the next level. Before the Jensen show yesterday, fashion historian Valerie Steele, fashion writer Colin McDowell, and celebrity blogger Hanneli could be seen at Cover’s reception outside Gallery. Their interest for Copenhagen Fashion Week should inspire Danish designers – and everyone else working in the fashion industry here – to raise the bar even further. On a final note, I also think the shows in Denmark could learn something from how Wood Wood handled their seating arrangements yesterday. Their show is always a pleasure to attend, both for the professionalism of the production and, of course, the design of the clothes. So let’s keep raising the bar. Yours truly Chris Pedersen

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Photography Jonas Bie

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Dansk Daily SS11 Friday 13.08.10 – PG. 6 – News

Liberating fashion. Launched in 2009, Danish fashion brand Libertine-Libertine is already building a reputation for classic garments with an urban edge. This season, they are branching into womenswear, and we can’t wait to get our hands on their delicate t-shirts. libertine-libertine.com

KiBiSi is a new industrial design firm founded by Hars Holme Larsen of Kilo Design, Bjarke Ingels of BIG and Jens Martin Skibsted of Skibsted Ideation. They designed the Shanghai chair for the Danish Expo Pavilion in Shanghai. It’s made from molded plywood, and each chair has numerous color combinations. Danish company HAY will produce the chairs, and DANSK Daily is a huge fan of their electric color combinations. hay.com

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Fans of jewelry designers Line & Jo will be pleased to know that the talented duo is opening their first flagship store this fall. The store will be located at Gothersgade in central Copenhagen. lineandjo.com

Debate fashion! Fashion has found a new forum. With business-news and in-depth articles, FashionForum.dk keeps you updated on the latest fads and innovations within the field of fashion. Distinguishing it from the mighty market of fashion magazines, FashionForum.dk centers on everything that surrounds the production of fashion - design education, trend scouting, marketing, sustainability, sourcing and so on. But FashionForum.dk also needs you: with the opportunity to create debates and add your comments to every article, FashionForum gives you the chance to be heard and have your prayers and questions answered. So... give it up for FashionForum and be the engaged reader we know you are. fashionforum.dk

The Danish It-bags. Watch out for the Danish accessory brand Lommé, designed by Jannie Mari and Rene Chu. Editor-in-chief of Cover magazine Malene Malling and stylist of the year Sassie Baré have already been seen sporting the oversize shopping totes, and DANSK Daily adores the combination of black coated cotton, luxurious leather and chunky zippers. Visit them this weekend at the Gallery fashion fair. lommebags.com

Dansk Daily SS11 Friday 13.08.10 – PG. 7 – News

Chris’s Pick of the Day. Danish menswear brand Norse Projects is one the most exciting brands in Denmark right now. The winter collection merges minimal Scandinavian style with the masculinity of the American workwear traditions.

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Inside Copenhagen. Blogger Camille Wang from Clamour for Glamour loves Danish fashion. These are her favourites: Notabene. I always shop in Notabene, especially for the store’s own line of gorgeous shoes. Barbara í Gongini. I’m drawn to her mysterious and creative universe. I adore clothing that combines art and fashion. Line & Jo. This company makes great jewelry, which is strikingly different from - and a worthy alternative to - the traditions of Georg Jensen. Clamour4glamour.eurowoman.dk

The Art of Fashion. Danish fashion designer Margit Brandt is currently being honored with a retrospective exhibition at the Danish Museum of Art & Design. Ever since 1965, Margit Brandt has been a vital part of the Danish fashion scene and the exhibition Walk on the Wild Side documents the beginning of her carrier. kunstindustrimuseet.dk

DANSK Fashion. The Danish fashion label DANSK recently opened a store on Istedgade 64 near the CPH Vision fair. DANSK is known for their cool yet relaxed design, and we love their tiny shop. danskofdenmark.dk

Dansk Daily SS11 Friday 13.08.10 – PG. 8 – News

The Company. Fashion store Nørgaard På Strøget has a long tradition of presenting art in the shop. This season, the store has chosen to present photographer Noam Griegst’s gracious portraits of dancers from The Royal Danish Ballet.

Helena Christensen opens The World’s Greatest Catwalk tomorrow. Danish supermodel Helena Christensen is looking forward to inaugurating The World’s Greatest Catwalk, which will take place on Strøget, the main pedestrian street,

on Saturday, August 14, from 15.00. As the event’s honorable patroness, Helena will open the catwalk with a speech from the main stage at Rådhuspladsen to an expected 100,000 spectators, who will be lining up along the one-mile long runway to catch a glimpse of the 220 models. “I have accepted the role as patroness of The World’s Greatest Catwalk because it’s a super exciting and important initiative. Besides that, The World’s Greatest Catwalk gives lots of people who normally don’t attend fashion events the opportunity to see one heck of a fashion show!”

In the London Mix. Words Mikkel Hyldebandt Top Danish womenswear label Designers Remix Collection is doing well. So well that the brand has decided to uproot one of the most cherished and elaborate shows of Copenhagen Fashion Week – and move it to London. The reason for the move is, according to designer and creative director, Charlotte Eskildsen, that the brand is already widely distributed outside Danish borders and that it needs a more international platform in order to expand. So far the rapid expansion and success of the brand has manifested itself with profits up by an impressive 80%.

In Eskildsen’s own words: “This is not turning our backs to Denmark! On the contrary, we aim for a win-win situation where we can perhaps pave the way for other Scandinavian brands in a more international setting”. It’s also a natural progression for the brand and designer alike, having gained a more mature and ‘grown-up’ edge. Both are simply ready to take the next step. Although Designers Remix Collection will be greatly missed during Copenhagen Fashion Week, we wish the best of luck. Designers Remix will show on Monday September 20th at Somerset House. Oh, and for those not fortunate enough to attend the show, it will be streamed on London Fashion Week TV. designersremix.com londonfashionweek.co.uk

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Dansk Daily SS11 Friday 13.08.10 – PG. 10 – News

Voices of Fashion: Anders Sølvsten Thomsen. The second of a series of interviews this week with key personas in the fashion industry Words Susanne Madsen It’s tempting to call London-based stylist Anders Sølvsten Thomsen a Great Dane – if not for his impressive height, then for his skills. But we’ll refrain from such clichés and let his resumé speak for itself. Anders abandoned a degree in Fashion Photography and Styling at the London College of Fashion to become Katie Grand’s first assistant at POP, and subsequently an editor. It was a wise decision: today, he is Senior Fashion Editor at LOVE and consults and styles for Louise Amstrup . He is also the newly-appointed Fashion Editor-at-Large at DANSK. Most embarrassing fashion moment? “I was working at a Giles show with my friend and colleague Kimi O’Neill, and we were putting boots and a corset on a model. Kimi was on her knees doing up the boots when I think I laced the corset a little too tightly since the model let out a massive fart, right into Kimi’s face. To this day, the model in question is known as Whiff.” Favourite reference you keep returning to in your work? “New Kids on the Block. Every time I have to pitch for a story I send a NKOTB idea. It gets panned every time. But I do have a story in the new DANSK titled Hangin’ Tough.” Most defining moment in your career? “When Anna Wintour arrived at Louis Vuitton for a run-through after we’d worked all night. I walked out in my slippers and was quickly ushered back into the room by Katie Grand. I know now the importance of good footwear.” Your dream wife (if you were so inclined): “Joan Rivers. I’d go from one bitchy queen to another. For a lover I’d take Béatrice Dalle in Betty Blue. You’d be guaranteed psychotic good sex.” The last text message you received: “It was from Victoria Young. It said: ‘Hey! Do you know what Phil’s rabbit was called??’ I answered Willy Hopps.” What’s it like to be so tall? “It’s great. Everyone looks up to me.” You can read Anders’ take on Danish fashion in the current issue of notjustalabel.com Susanne Madsen is the Fashion Features Director at DANSK

Say Goodbye To Bad Lighting. Words Mikkel Hyldebrandt Max Factor Product of the Day Who wouldn’t want to take five years off in a flash? Once those even miniscule signs of aging appear

Photo Anders von Greffelstejn

Copenhagen Fashion Week on your mobile. Be sure to download this season’s musthave: the Copenhagen Fashion Week mobile app. It can be downloaded at Android Market, iTunes App Store or at copenhagenfashionweek.com/app

in your face, the quest for those products that seamlessly make you look just a little better begins. The problem is that many of those products are not seamless. Especially when it comes to foundations – the easiest and most evident way to elegantly conceal your minor skin flaws – the challenge is to find a product that does not make your skin look opaque like cracked porcelain from the ample use of light-reflecting ingredients. Introducing the Max Factor Age Renew Foundation. The key to this foundation is that instead of light reflectors, it uses light enrichers

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Dansk Daily SS11 Friday 13.08.10 – PG. 12 – Feature

Fashion Steals the Cultural Limelight Designers receive state grants, the fashion industry is honored with important titles, and clothes are displayed at museums. Fashion has become part of the cultural mainstream, giving it the opportunity to develop in new and exciting ways.

Words Charlotte Wendt Jensen Illustration Laura-Silke Berg Nielsen

”Walk on the Wild Side” is the name of an exhibition currently running at the Danish Museum of Art and Design that traces the history of Danish fashion. Its main focus is a retrospective of Danish designer Margit Brandt, exhibiting clothes, sketches and photos from her heyday years of 1965-1980, when she invaded the fashion scenes in Denmark and abroad. The Brandt exhibition is just one of many examples of how fashion has become recognized as a worthy form of cultural expression. This spring, designer Anne Damgaard exhibited her artistic creatons at Kunstpakhuset in Ikast, and back in 2008, Trapholt in Kolding ran two simultaneous exhibitions, one on shoes and one on sustainable clothing and fashion. Besides the fashion invasion of museums, a number of fashion personalities have received their due credit with honors and awards. Fashion journalist Didder Rønlund was honored with the Order of the

Dannebrog this year, while the CEO of Danish Fashion Institute, Eva Kruse, has become listed in Kraks Blå Bog, an exclusive who’s who of Denmark. And beyond that, a growing number of designers are receiving artist grants from The Danish Arts Foundation. 2010’s recipient list includes such names as Barbara i Gongini, Åse Helena Hansen, Camilla Stærk, Vilsbøl de Arce and Femmes Regionales’ Caroline Hansen and Mie Albæk Nielsen. In 2009, Londonbased Peter Jensen received a threeyear work grant. ”Fashion is part of our culture, and an important part at that. Every day of our lives, fashion is where we look at how we’re doing and what we’re going to do. The developments in the society that surrounds us also affects us, and this is reflected in our clothes. Fashion mirrors what’s going on, just like art, literature and music. That’s been a well known fact for years in places like the US, Germany and France, but it’s just dawning on Denmark,”says Malene Malling, publisher and owner of Malling Publications, which publishes the magazine Cover.

As the curator of an exhibition on young Danish designers at the Danish Design Center that ran six years ago, she took part in lifting eyebrows by putting fashion in a museum context. ”In the last few years, people have realized that fashion isn’t just about glamour and drinking champagne, but that it’s also an important industry - one of the biggest in Denmark. I think this realization has come about for two reasons. Firstly, we’ve got some incredibly skilled designers, who make edgy everydaywear that most people ”get”. In other countries, fashion is usually very expensive, but here we’ve got a generation of Danish designers making clothes for you and me. Secondly, you’ve had a group of people working intently on earning fashion some respect. Eva Kruse has fought hard for Danish Fashion Insitute, and exhibitions like the one I curated have helped inform public perceptions. A lot of heroes have put countless hours into this,” says Malling. Caroline Hansen and Mie Albæk Nielsen are two such heroes, having

created the design agency Femmes Regionales. This year, they’ve received a work grant of 50,000 kroner, a sum that will help them develop their company. ”The grant gives us some time to focus on the non-commercial aspects of our work. It’s crucial in this industry to keep whetting your blade and develop your creative ideas, since that’s basically the product we sell. With time, we hope to expand to a larger international clientelle, and the best way for us to do that is to fine-tune our ideas,” says Albæk Nielsen. Malene Malling also sees great opportunities in The Danish Arts Foundation’s choice of rewarding grants to designers. ”It puts money in the pockets of people who really need it. It leaves more room for new projects and new ideas, and gives designers a feeling of being respected. More funding and a stronger focus on fashion will contribute to a professionalization of the industry. Ten years ago, our fashion week was a pleasant event with a handfull of shows, and today it’s an international phenomenon,” she concludes.

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Dansk Daily SS11 Friday 13.08.10 – PG. 16 – Show – Photo Sacha Maric –

Get Ready for School, Kiddo.

Words Mikkel Hyldebrandt It’s always highly appreciated when London-based Dane Peter Jensen comes back to Copenhagen for fashion week to put on a show. After waiting for the Crown Princess, the show commenced by sending models onto the runways dressed in a subdued color scheme, accentuated with strong neon hues and hefty gold accessories – the extremely shiny, gold/silver briefcase-shaped bag will sooo be seen on the streets next year! The colors livened up progressively through the show creating a ladylike, girlie look without a floral print in sight, but replaced by cool, graphic prints instead. Especially the little crepe-de-chine dress with a fitted waist and a printed yellow over-size bow had women in the audience already dreaming of next

year’s summer look. The shapes were easy and uncomplicated, and the colors were strong with candy apple reds, grassy greens and cobalt blues prevailing in particular. For the guys, the signature short jacket was back, but this time in jersey, giving it a cool but casual look. More so, the look was bordering on naïve without going childish, thus keeping with the archetypical style universe set up by Mr. Jensen. Let’s call it ‘farmer meets aviator meets urban chic ‘– but on their first day of school.

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Dansk Daily SS11 Friday 13.08.10 – PG. 18 – Show – Photo Sacha Maric –

Soulland Suits the Men. Words Moussa Mchangama There’s no doubt that pieces from this Soulland collection will be spotted around the streets of Copenhagen next spring. Even though the collection features suits, it is still wearable, relaxed and playful. You can always recognize the designer’s clothes on the details, and this is no exception; the buttons, collars and elbow details are all Adler trademarks. The colors, as in seasons past, aren’t exactly bright: camel, navy, peach and white complete the circle. The show kicked off with a recitation of the Leonard Cohen poem “The Suit” (hence the name of the collection). It’s basic menswear, but there are still surprises. Making a knitted poncho is clever, even though the number of hipsters flashing them next summer probably won’t be big. That Soulland-designer Silas Adler is a very popular guy was evident Wednesday night. The sporadic cheering and clapping at show start, and the massive applause at the end spoke for itself. And the throngs of (straight) men on the front row is proof that Soulland has a crowd of followers that cannot be missed on the Danish fashion scene.

Mad about the Boy. Words Elsebeth Mouritzen Photo Sacha Maric At Bruuns Bazaar, the genders enjoy equal rights, the men’s and women’s collections being equally important. Often, though, the feminine fashion steals the limelight on the catwalk due to greater possibilities for variation in design, prints and colors. But last night, all eyes were on the men’s line, inspired by classical American sportswear and styled with a nod to everyone’s favorite TV-show, Mad Men. You don’t have to be a key account manager to love the light merino wool pinstripe suits and crisp cotton shirts for work and the twill chinos and various polos and t-shirts in washed prints and stripes. Preppy, yes, but pretty cool. The women’s collection was far more casual in general in a mix of very comfortable romantic tops and dresses in shiny sateen tailoring, draping and knot details. A winner was the asymmetrical handkerchief skirts in solids or lace print, especially one in caramel paired with a slouchy beige silk knit sweater. Another strong theme in the collection was the inevitable military influence that we have already seen a lot this week, here interpreted in army green and brown colours in light fabrics to give the trend a feminine and chic twist. What a great pair.

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Dansk Daily SS11 Friday 13.08.10 – PG. 20 – Shows – Photo Sacha Maric –

Cocktails, Anyone? Words Mikkel Hyldebrandt The SS11 Wallin show was an event that definitely stretched the boundaries of the conventional fashion show, having two designers share the spotlight at the Nimb Hotel. The invitation was extended by the Peter F. Heering Liqueur Company, which presented the Swedish couture designer Lars Wallin, along with the winner of the 2009 world championship in fashion mixing and drink, Loukas-Athanasios Alifragkis from Greece. Each showed their vision of the perfect cocktail dress to go along with the perfect Heering cocktail that was also presented during the show, aptly named The Copenhagen. Both designers displayed pretty cocktail dresses, frocks and gowns that will undoubtedly draw attention at your next chic gathering that calls for heavily draped fabrics, ruffles, black silks and powdery off-whites along with lots of gold applications. What would perhaps had done better as a relaxed evening event, the show was a celebration of music, fashion and liqueur, featuring a live performance by Medina and a presentation of a 120 year-old vintage Heering liqueur bottle, which will go on auction to generate revenues for young designers and mixologists.

The Garden of Eden. Words Rikke Dyrholm TEKO’s graduate show ’The New Optimism’ revealed a firm grasp of flattering silhouettes and remarkable tailoring which led you believe the designers had extensive experience. Considering the design diversity amongst design school graduates in general, Teko managed to maintain a high level and an impressive thread throughout the composite show. The sixteen graduate students’ designs seemed to reference Adam and Eve’s Garden of Eden, interpreting it in different ways with different meanings. The light and fluid transparent materials underscored this theme, while the color scale, held in mostly black/whiteshades, frosted it. It was refreshing to see a variety of interpretations on the same theme. While some had created well-shaped white shaded dresses, transparent body-stockings, artistic drapes and light fable imitations, others showed a darker, more twisted angle on the topic with big floaty caps, sharp black dresses and asymmetrical cuts. In the show finale, as the sixteen talented graduates marched down the runway – one couldn’t help declaring this is not just ’The New Optimism’ – this is a new world order and a new generation of talented designers. And it’s another day for you and me in Paradise!

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Dansk Daily SS11 Friday 13.08.10 – PG. 22 – Shows – Photo Sacha Maric –

Jungle Fever.

Words Elsebeth Mouritzen Husband Erik was sporting his tongue-in-cheek ”Emperor’s New Clothes”-embroidered shirt on the front row, but the clothes from designer-wife Margit Brandt on the catwalk were far from. It was the best, most integrated show from their brand since they relaunched five years ago under the supervision of daughter Julie Brandt Dam. The theme was ’Safari Diva’, and the floor at The Museum of Art and Design, which also hosts a retrospective of Margit Brandt fashion design from her heyday in 19651980, was swarming with glamamazonas in earth-toned and junglegreen clothes fit for an African queen (but also the rest of us) in a perfect balance between ladylike and casual.

Truly wearable safari-inspired jackets, dresses, shorts and coats cinched at the waist with woven belts – just one of the many new accessories added to the line – accompanied jersey blouses with waterfall necklines and fluid dresses in slinky, sexy materials. A suite of soft black and dusty aqua evening clothes with to-die-for alligator-printed belts as a contrast drew upon the heritage of Margit Brandt’s design, and as a salute to Denmark’s first ever international designer, the finale featured the models in white t-shirts with a b/w print image of Margit on the front.

FREE GUIDED TOURS

The Museum of Art and Design celebrates Copenhagen Fashion Week by inviting you to join one of our free guided tours of the exhibition, WALK ON THE WILD SIDE â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Margit Brandt Fashion Design 1965-1980. Entrance fee is obligatory.

Tour schedule:

Thursday 12.08 through Saturday 14.08 at 12pm and 3pm. Sunday 15.08 at 2pm. When buying a Margit Brandt scarf in the Museum Shop you get a free exhibition catalogue. This offer is only valid through Sunday 15.08.2010.

THE EXHIBITION WILL BE ON SHOW UNTIL SUNDAY 19.09.2010. READ MORE AT WWW.KUNSTINDUSTRIMUSEET.DK

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GET THE LOOK FROM FASHION WEEK Trine Wackerhaus became the winner of Max Factor New Talent Award, that took place during Copenhagen Fashion Week in February. For this occasion I designed a look to match her signature copper tones and simple elegance. The Wackerhaus collection will be available soon, but you can get the look now. Start with Master Touch

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Second Skin on the entire face. Then apply a mix of the eye shadows

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Drawing Gold #425 and Terra Firma #105. Beginning with the lightest, apply the colours to

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Dansk Daily SS11 Friday 13.08.10 – PG. 26 – Shows – Photo Sacha Maric –

Jean// Phillip Grows Stronger Again. Words Moussa Mchangama To say that Jean//Phillip has transformed over the last couple of years would be an understatement. This young designer has gotten his act together for this one, showing a beautiful and coherent collection. And the fact that the collection is very different from what has been seen in the other menswear so far this season is refreshing by itself. An expansion of the designer’s normal color palette is evident at first sight, including green, blue and shades of nude (whatever colors are included in that, nowadays) to his favorites black and grey. Sheer fabrics are used for leggings, tanks and drapes around the shoulder. It’s a clean collection that has shed a lot of the details that Jean// Phillip was known known for. The focus is on the design and the fit, not on walking around with zippers from top to toe. The well-known leather-and-suede jackets are still there, along with the thin, long sweaters that wave in the wind behind you. You may say that the collection is more commercial than before, but staying edgy while maintaining your trademark look is difficult. This shows that Jean//Phillip is growing as both a designer and a brand.

Kiss of Youth. Words Chris Pedersen There is something nostalgic about Wood Wood. Even though the designers have all long surpassed their early teens – even thirties - the company seems locked in a time capsule of partying and not-wanting-to-go-home. And to be honest I wouldn’t want to go home if I was in the company of girls wearing the Wood Wood collection’s tartan shirts, sliced tights and next summer’s hottest ticket, the ’Dry your eye’ t-shirt. For the guys, Wood Wood experimented with printed chambre-shirts, stone washed denim and colors such as yellow, mustard and a vibrant petrol blue, complimenting the blond undercuts of several of the male models. The styling was inspired by the buffalo boys of the early eighties. A bit second hand and some African prints thrown together with army clothing. It looked great. But it might have worked better without splashing water on the models before entering the room. There is nothing to cry about though. Youngsters will cue up for the collection come next summer.

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Dansk Daily SS11 Friday 13.08.10 – PG. 28 – Shows –

One Big Retro Bang.

Words Rikke Dyrholm The Terminal 2 trend show Wednesday night presented a dedicated celebration of retro-mania. The show was well-styled and demonstrated a sexiness packed in some key cultural reference points of the past decades. As a Guernsey party bus parked by the runway and rolled out a banner with the words Anarchy - and the first emo-rocking punk hit the runway to the tones of Blue Vans’ ’There Goes my Love’ – the show kicked off with a big British bang. One emo-offsping after another spilled out of the bus and strolled down the runway in true East London spirit, dressed in all the PunkGoth Campden goods, including Doc Martens, torned stockings, imitated leather, string vests, multible chains and lots of piercings. After these fabolous emo-rocking nightingales another global retro-celebration commenced. With a shrill whistling sound, a hippie van entered the stage spitting out a bunch of tropicana beach punks in true Rio De Janeiro style. The models danced down the runway

wearing synthetic leggings in bang colors, bikini tops, pompous sambaheadgear and empty cans around their neck. As the last beach punk left the stage, a big Beirut Monster Truck passed up. A bedouin army marched past the audience wearing keffiyeh, army jackets, harem pants and big military boots - fully packed for desert hiking. With guns and binoculars strategically hanging across the shoulders, it didn’t look like any ordinary desert hike. The Terminal 2 show left one wanting more anarchy, disclaiming hierachy and repeating history.

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28/7/10 21:29

Dansk Daily SS11 Friday 13.08.10 – PG. 30 – Shows – Photo Sacha Maric –

WakeUp Call. Words Eva Obelitz Rode, Kolding School of Design held their graduate show early Thursday morning at City Hall with DJ Djuna Barnes sending out tunes to wake up the tired fashion crowd that had come to admire the graduate collections. The fresh designers started off with sculptural designs in seethrough fabrics and – voilà - the audience was awake and captured. As the music continued to flow, they quickly moved on to inspiring creations such as voluminous long capes, heavy knitted menswear, and deconstructed items draped across the models’ bodies. Some of the more wearable designs included beautifully tailored high-waisted pants, and a jumpsuit with 80s-inspired sharp shoulders along with a draped jersey dress. The grads showed their promising designs in a colour scale that stretched from nature-inspired hues like warm brown, dusty grey, and dark green to the strong cobalt blue, mixed with black and at last some lighter colours like dusty orange, nude, and light yellow. At the end, the young talents took a last stroll down the catwalk holding hands with their model to a riveting audience applause.

Rock around the Clock. Words Elsebeth Mouritzen What does a leggy club-goer wear to work? The same style as last night! According to Peter Ingwersen, there’s no difference between being a rock chick and a working girl, and he offered plenty of ideas for going from eco-chic to sexy in his diffusion-line BLLACK NOIR, debuting on the shortest catwalk of this fashion week at the Zen nightclub with rising Danish electro-stars Electric Lady Lab performing live. The foundation of the collection is basically classic like “big sis” NOIR with lots of leggings, skinny pants, t-shirts, tailored jackets, shirts and no-frills dresses, but definitely more edgy: short, bodyhugging, decorated, transparent… But not all was black, not all was cotton. Between the dark neutrals were grey, white, even powder pink and nude, and besides the sexy leather, sequins and lurex, soft satins and chiffons were mixed with the crisp cottons grown organically in Uganda, the brand’s trademark. The collection spoke loud and proud to a young audience, but adult women could also become fans of the capsleeved long jacket, the wide-legged white pants, the grey lamé-suit with crinkled lapels and the sleeveless satin jumpsuit. Encore!

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11-08-2010 11:17:26

Dansk Daily SS11 Friday 13.08.10 – PG. 32 – Shows – Photo Sacha Maric –

Rock’n’Roll Royale. Words Moussa Mchangama This season’s David Andersen show was all about rock’n’roll. The models danced and jived and high-fived their way down the runway in a way that has got to be a first in the Royal Copenhagen shop. The Elvisinspired hairdos - and ripped socks worn instead of shoes completed this rock’n’roll feeling. This collection was for every man who loves different combinations of black, sharp shoulders, chain mail, shorts, leather and ripped see-through fabric (which obviously means all male bloggers attending this fashion week). Andersen’s blazers are still one of his strongest assets and they come in different shapes, with various attachments and differing shoulder sizes. Still, he has taken it down a notch since last season’s safety pin extravaganza. There aren’t as many shoulder pads, not as much leather and no skintight leggings. Skimpy shorts and a loose kind of trouser were introduced instead. With this collection, the attitude has to come from the man himself, instead of from the clothes. The look isn’t as dramatic as before, and while trying to conquer the Danish fashion scene, this suits the designer.

As Simple as That. Words Eva Obelitz Rode Even though Stylein is not usually on the schedule for Copenhagen Fashion Week, their show attracted a lot of curious people who - despite the rain - had gathered to see the Swedish designer’s spring/summer 2011 collection. While most of the models had their hair out, others had it tied up, a strong contrast that fit the collection well with its feminine light floor-length skirts contra the sexy tight short dresses. In between, you could find a black pair of loose trousers with a one-shoulder dusty green top, a dark grey cardigan matched with high-waisted and short, short panties, or a long black and white printed dress styled with a thin belt in the waist. The design was simple and feminine with a colour scale that is easy to adjust; light nude, shiny grey, black, dusty green, and a black and white print were the main hues. The collection provides a wearable and thorough selection of styles with colours that will be just perfect for next summer. Whether you choose to wear the black oneshoulder short dress or the slightly see through-able nude floor-length skirt, you’ll be attracting gazes in 2011. Who knew it could be this simple?

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Dansk Daily SS11 Friday 13.08.10 – PG. 34 – Shows – Photo Sacha Maric –

Skin Deep. Words Mikkel Hyldebrandt As the lights went all the way down at Gallery just as Vilsbøl de Arce started their show, the sudden dark mood spawned the expectation to see black leather-clad models in graphic design on the runway. This show marked the second segment of the Vilsbøl de Arce anatomy theme – and this time skin was the focal point – so leather would be the obvious, tangible connection to skin. But as the lights went up it was practically the opposite – the leather was there, but had almost been completely replaced by natural, soft and free-flowing linen. As the show moved on the metaphor of skin manifested itself in various fabrics and textures like silks, the aforementioned linen, natural leathers and soft jerseys creating beautiful surfaces and layers – just as skin would. The alternation in fabrics combined with the figurative symmetry – which to some degree signifies Vilsbøl de Arce – conveyed a message of both vulnerability and fortification. That skin is both fragile and strong. Only a bright orange contrasted the otherwise sandy earth tones, just like the simple, structural designs were set off by large and shiny gold jewelry. The look was a sort of deconstructed nomadic desert bohéme, which made nothing but sense.

Dreamy Summer Landscape. Words Rikke Dyrholm The beautiful fairytale-inspired outdoor setup at Munthe plus Simonsen’s show was, how to put this... challenged by the weather. But as raindrops kept falling on the spectactors, Munthe plus Simonsen managed to keep the ambience going strong by serving Campari drinks and colorful cupcakes. As the show kicked off with a big electronic bang, the models went down the astroturf runway under multicolored lights in romantic beige cowboy boots. Casual shorts and vests, light dresses, printed leggings and bohemian scarfs were the lynchpins of the feminine collection. A romantic dream was disseminated through light, floaty materials held in jersey, soft calfskin and silk along with sequins, patterned print, checkers, and dots. The color palette unfolded a predilection for dusty pastels and the silhouettes revealed a luxurious knack for comfort reminiscent of a walk by the waterfront at the French riviera. And the show ended happily ever after.

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VIEW THE SPRING / SUMMER COLLECTIONS THURSDAY — SUNDAY between 12AM — 2PM (8 am - 12 am / 2 pm - 10 pm by appointment only) sales@bruunsbazaar.com / (+45) 3377 0075 Bruuns Bazaar showroom, Silkegade 8, 1113 Copenhagen K

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10/08/10 11:44:43

Summer Ballet 2010.

Dansk Daily SS11 Friday 13.08.10 – PG. 36 – V.I.P. - Very Important Princesses Wednesday, August 12, 2010 – Photo Simon B. Mørch Words Magnus Jorem –

Jesper Klein arrives in a fashionable manner escorted by his equally dapper pal.

Ballet queen Nikolaj Hübbe refuses to stand under your um-bUhrella-ella-ELLA-ey-ey-ey!

The adorable Martin Brygmann made an appearance with his better half.

Nicolaj Kopernicus alongside smiling modern woman!

This. Dude. Has. Attitude.

Emilie Brandt went for the Amy Winehouse meets “Like a Virgin”-era Madonna look.

The summer ballet is like Christmas Eve for ballet critics and their wives.

Laid-back and with a purple sweater slung over his shoulders, Bent Fabricius-Bjerre enjoyed the spectacle in the loveliest of female company.

Voilá Sarah Kølpin, part quick-change artist, part fashionista extraordinaire? How else would she be able to attend so many exhausting shows and look so astonishingly fresh?

Morten Grunwald is da big dawg of theater, fashion, ballet and everything in between.

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12 internationale dansere, 8 koreografer og 5 musikere Koreografer: Constantine BaeCher, esther Lee WiLkinson, Fernando Magadan, Louise Midjord, tiM Matiakis, m.fl. Kostumedesigner Maja Brix Livemusik: aFenginn

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Dansk Daily SS11 Friday 13.08.10 – PG. 38 – V.I.P. - Very Important Princesses Wednesday, August 12, 2010 – Photo Simon B. Mørch Words Magnus Jorem –

cover event.

The stunning Caroline Plummer from Cover was eagerly awaiting the arrival of tween popstar Justin Bieber.

Sidsel from Cover shocks the fashion world with her innovative material mixes, blackon-black it-piece combinations and ferocious blogger attitude.

Won Hundred power duo!

Celebrated Danish top model Christel from Unique kept it foxy while waiting for yet another glass of champagne to be poured.

Malene Malling, the Angelina Jolie of Denmark.

Photographer Rasmus Skousen and beauty journalist Charlotte Torpegaard are fun-lovin’ members of the chattering classes.

Handsome red-capped stalker catches the latest crazy fashion blog gossip from the wild, swingin’ Anywho girls and the saucy Fiona Jane.

Maiken Winther and her Fashion TV pals know you shouldn’t believe the hype! Noone reads fashion blogs, but everyone watches Fashion TV! It’s television, baby! Television!

The mysterious Norwegian model/blogger known only as Hanneli lit up the party with a golden qipao-inspired knockout dress. Kjempegul og kjempekul.

London-based fashion designer Jens Laugesen enjoys his cortado in the sunshine.

Photo Jimmy Nelson

12.60 ct White F-G/vs Diamonds & 18K Rose Gold

Dansk Daily SS11 Friday 13.08.10 – PG. 40 – V.I.P. - Very Important Princesses Thursday, August 12, 2010 – Words Magnus Jorem Photo Simon B. Mørch –

Malene birger book launch.

Academy Award winning director Bille August joins Malene Birger for a look at her bio.

A high society hug of marvelous, tremendous success in fabulous library surroundings.

The place was packed with millionaire celebrities from Milan, Paris, New York, Tokyo, and Strandvejen

Celebrity hair stylist Søren Hedegaard joins chic fashion journalist Didder Rønlund for that elusive meal known as brunch.

Statler and Waldorf took a break from critiquing shows to enjoy themselves with cognac, coffee and freshly squeezed OJ.

Empress and eternal ruler of a billion galaxies - the fabulous Cath Danneskiold-Samsøe - puts the million in millionøse.

The dashing Kim Grenaa.

This book is so swanky we got five for our Noguchi table!

Szchirley brought Copenhagen’s youngest club kid to the Birger Brunch.

The Lady of the Hour herself.

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C O P E N H AG E N 12/08/10 13:31:09

Dansk Daily SS11 Friday 13.08.10 – PG. 42 – V.I.P. - Very Important Princesses Wednesday August 11, 2010 – Words Magnus Jorem Photo Simon B. Mørch –

Euroman/ eurowoman.

The always-popular Caroline gets oogled from behind.

Hilarious fashion bloggers / DJ’s / movie directors / actors/ models / reality stars Danni and Andreas play their favorite tunes by tween popstar Justin Bieber

Andreas of Kohberg commercial fame has set up a foundation for other troubled child stars, patrons include Macauley Culkin, Drew Barrymore and Aaron Carter.

Lasse Nord wears the fiercest heels of this spring/summer season but wouldn’t give our camera a look.

Jeppe always seems to be hanging around power princesses like this chick and Normann Cph’s Kalle.

They just get younger and younger and slicker and slicker.

Happy-go-lucky boy toy Andreas goes fashion week crazy by unbuttoning his shirt a notch.

Is that Sarah Hjort or Chloe Sevigny? Whoever she is, she’s a total dude-magnet.

Storm’s woman of mystery - codename Red Fox - and pal are all about smart leather jackets.

Ringe fra

5995

Dansk Daily SS11 Friday 13.08.10 – PG. 44 – Look of the Day Jean//Phillip, City Hall – Words Mikkel Hyldebrandt Photo Anders von Greffelstejn –

Bourgeois Punk

The Look Imagine a chic garden party gatecrashed by a gang of punks, and you get the overall idea of the look at this season’s Jean//Phillip show. The basic look is balanced and harmonic, interrupted by punkish accents. The skin stays flawless but neutral, and cheeks and brows are heavily accentuated to create a notable contrast. The otherwise well-groomed look gets a sharper edge with a punk attitude – because as everybody knows, even good boys have a little punk inside them…

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Dansk Daily SS11 Friday 13.08.10 – PG. 46 – Schedule

Copenhagen Fashion Festival FRIDAY 17.00-21.00 Fashion Night Out Enjoy this shopping/drinking/patying/posing in the center of Copenhagen. 16.00-22.00 Kronprinsensgade Streetparty – The street to be seen in Kronprinsensgade, Copenhagen K This Fashion Night Out 13 August, the Danish and international style elites alike will strut their stuff in the legendary style street, bursting with that unique Copenhagen summer atmosphere. Come and join this Fabulous streetparty.

EVENTS

SHOWS

FRIDAY

10.00-20.00 IMAGINARIUM A dramatic exhibition where art meets fashion at Hans Alf Gallery. Flæsketorvet 26-28, Copenhagen V Open to public

11.00 Jesper Høvring NIMB, Bernstorffsgade 5, Copenhagen V By invitation only

18.00-21.00 Fashion night out Late night shopping In the centre of Copenhagen Open to public

12.00 SIMON RASMUSSEN Ny Tap, Pasteursvej 52, Copenhagen V By invitation only 13.00 Veronica B. Vallenes City Hall, Rådhuspladsen 1, Copenhagen V By invitation only 14.00 Ivan Grundahl Gallery Bumble & Bumble Showscene, Julius Thomsens Plads 1, Frederiksberg By invitation only

19.00-01.00 ACNE garden party Pilemosen 6, Herlev By invitation only

17.00-22.00 Love me some libertine Kask, Hyskenstræde 16, Copenhagen K Go all out on the first birthday of hot shop Kask, when the rails are taken over by the super cool Danish label Libertine-Libertine in a celebration of their debut womenswear collection for autumn/ winter 2010.

20.00-04.00 The Fashion Week dinner party hosted by Jazzhouse Fashionable food, beautiful cocktails, the hottest DJs in Copenhagen and ultra cool fashion after party. Niels Hemmingsensgade 10, Copenhagen K By invitation only

22.00-04.00 I AM Partying Skovriderkroen, Strandvejen 235, Charlottenlund I AM 10 is brought to you by COPENHAGEN FASHION FESTIVAL, ELITE MODELS, STELLA POLARIS, REMEE&FRIENDS, ZEN, PARIS TEXAS, COSTUME, MIRAGE & SHOESHIBAR.

21.00-24-00 DANSK #24 – The Launch DANSK Magazine celebrates the launch of DANSK #24 Custom House, Havnegade 44 By invitation only! 22.00-04.00 I AM fashion party COPENHAGEN FASHION FESTIVAL / ELITE MODELS / COSTUME / PARIS TEXAS / MIRAGE / ZEN / REMEE & FRIENDS / SHOESHIBAR & STELLA POLARIS is doing it again! Skovridderkroen, Strandvejen 235, Charlottenlund 22.00-04.00 CPH VISION party The Royal Danish Playhouse, Sankt Annæ Plads 36, Copenhagen K By invitation only 22.00- 04.00 Tea Paper magazine #2 release Pack your heels, grab your balls, wash your underwear, and come early - cus this is still it! Address: TBC By invitation only 24.00-03.00 DANSK #24 – The Party DANSK Magazine celebrates the launch of DANSK #24 Custom House, Havnegade 44 Free entrance 24.00-04.00 Mannequin Madness Beautiful styles, arty visuals and poetry surrounded by a modern version of Frank Sinatra. Niels Hemmingsensgade 10, Copenhagen K By invitation only

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15. 00 S’Nob de Noblesse City Hall, Rådhuspladsen 1, Copenhagen V By invitation only 16.00 Ils of Norway, TSH and Undorn Gallery Bumble & Bumble Showscene, Julius Thomsens Plads 1, Frederiksberg By invitation only 17.00 Moods of Norway Gallery Bumble & Bumble Showscene, Julius Thomsens Plads 1, Frederiksberg By invitation only 18.00 Minimarket City Hall, Rådhuspladsen 1, Copenhagen V By invitation only 19.00 Wackerhaus Gallery Bumble & Bumble Showscene, Julius Thomsens Plads 1, Frederiksberg By invitation only 20.00 By Melene Birger Docken, Færgehavnsvej 35, Copenhagen Ø By invitation only 21.00 Ivana Helsinki Gallery Bumble & Bumble Showscene, Julius Thomsens Plads 1, Frederiksberg By invitation only 22.00 Henrik Vibskov TBC By invitation only

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