Meet the chef: Matt Egan

MEET THE CHEF

MATT EGAN

By James Rayner Photography Christian Warren

In Ventnor, on a tranquil woody ledge between the chalky hills and lapping waves of the Channel, surrounded by palm-filled gardens, lies The Royal Hotel. For almost two hundred years, it has been establishing a reputation for unbeatable fine dining and top-notch hospitality – from the days when Belgian hotelier Hubert Cloots hosted his elegant banquets here in the 1890s, to the day Queen Victoria stepped through its doors. Now, with new Head Chef Matt Egan taking the reins in the Royal’s kitchen, this reputation is not only in safe hands, but on track to reach new heights.

Matt first donned his apron after being hired by the Inns of Distinction, soon being taken on board by Tim and Emma of the Three Buoys at Appley – and by 22 he was already their Head Chef. A year later, his passion and dedication won the

Three Buoys their first AA Rosette – a coveted award that recognises a chef’s quality, skill, and precision.

Making the move south to Ventnor, Matt’s seemingly unstoppable rise has continued at the

Royal, going from saying “yes chef” as a Junior

Sous Chef, to top dog, giving the directions as

“My style is modern with some unexpected twists”

head of the brigade. In at the deep end, taking up the new role wasn’t without its challenges. “Soon after starting, within three days I was hit with both the annual environmental health inspectors and then the AA inspectors too,” Matt recalls. Although, needless to say, he passed both with flying colours. As the tablecloths are laid and cutlery is positioned, anticipation builds - there’s clearly a good reason why 98 percent of the hotel’s guests choose to dine in every night. The first plate to arrive is the Isle of Wight Gallybagger Cheese soufflé served with an onion velouté and black onion seeds – a firm favourite on the Royal’s menu and a dish which Olive Magazine described as “so light it evaporated on the tongue” (followed by the advice: “miss no opportunity to eat soufflé here!”) Even from this dish alone, it’s clear to see Matt’s passion for quality local produce, supporting small-scale suppliers and minimising food miles. Regularly pulling up to deliver at the kitchen’s back door are the Tomato Stall, the Isle of Wight Cheese Company, Will from Living Larder (bringing heritage carrots and rainbow chard) and local Ventnor fisherman Justin (with fresh fish and lobster). Back at the chef’s pass, plating continues, and the stunning dishes keep coming – some

Left: Beef Fillet, Shin Ragu with Heritage Carrot, Shortcrust and Cabernet Sauvignon jus

decorated with edible flowers grown in the hotel’s very own garden. “My style is modern with some unexpected twists,” Matt explains, “like adding tarragon to a dessert pastry for example”. Or, as an alternative, Matt’s pineapple brûlée with Thai green crème pâtissière (yes, really!) Alongside him is a core team of talented cooks, many of them former colleagues from his time at the Three Buoys, all working together to keep pushing the boundaries of what the Royal’s kitchen is capable of. Although Matt has barely been at the helm long enough to settle in, plans are already forming for the future and the direction he’s looking to take things. He aims to make The Royal Hotel into a real foodie destination – an evolution that is already underway – and to do the same for the town itself too. “The Ventnor scene is really taking off at the moment, when you see what’s happening with The Hambrough and The Smoking Lobster. I think The Royal will definitely be a part of that too,” he says. So, with eyes firmly set on the future, we can’t wait to see what will come next from Matt Egan and the team but, in the meantime, you’ll have to excuse us - we’ve got a delicious torched mackerel with pistachio and yoghurt to finish.

Top right: Seabass Supreme, with a Thai Green Sauce, Gnocchi, Pickled Chilli And Pak Choi Milk chocolate. Right: Cremieux With Sea Salt, Blueberry and Vanilla