Afternoon Tease

Ever since the 7th Duchess of Bedford (supposedly) invented afternoon tea to put a stop to ‘that sinking feeling’ during the gap between lunch and dinner, Brits haven’t needed much of an excuse to indulge in a mid-afternoon treat.

By James Rayner Pictures by Christian Warren

As the years have rolled by, the possibilities for the traditional afternoon tea have become endless and the opportunity to gather with friends or family and share the experience has become more and more important. So shine up the cake forks and dig out that tea strainer as we take a look at the more casual, unique, and customisable afternoon treats you can find across the Isle of Wight this spring and summer.

Going Nuts for Doughnuts

First stop is Cook + Baker, located in a Victorian stone cottage at the heart of Godshill village. Stepping inside you’ll find Roger Serjant (up to his elbows in doughnuts) and wife Lisa (piping bag in hand), producing a fresh array of bakery specialities that, since opening, have attracted a steady stream of sweet-toothed patisserie addicts. The inspiration for the couple’s latest venture comes from the other side of the world — Australia to be precise — and that country’s unique take on cafe culture. “We lived out there for a number of years and loved how service at cafes just naturally flowed from breakfast into brunch, into lunch. Nothing was fixed, it was all very relaxed and casual”. This ethos is now at the heart of Cook + Baker, with a menu offering something for everyone — “even those who left home not really knowing what they fancied” — and a place to meet with friends for a drink, a cake, or perhaps something more. Taking a seat in the Cook + Baker garden, it’s time to place that order and a quick scan of the food offering shows why this Godshill cafe is the perfect place for a customisable afternoon treat. To begin, you could try the smashed avocado toast or maybe share a tofu scramble with sweet potato rösti. Then, why not add in one or two of the day’s specials, which on this visit included an Italian pork sausage roll and a red wine braised beef pie (made with local Wagyu beef from Niton) On to sweets, which feature éclairs on Mondays and Portuguese tarts on Sundays, but visit on a Saturday and you’ll discover the highly revered ‘doughnut day’ where freshly fried doughnuts are piped and decorated with an ever-changing repertoire of flavours, including lemon verbena, pistachio with rose, salted caramel and Vietnamese coffee. Unveiled at 10:30am they’re normally sold out by noon! Cook + Baker’s tempting array of handcrafted and exciting options is really no surprise, as hospitality runs in both sides of the family. Lisa was born on the Island to a family of Chinese cooks (her grandfather opened the Isle of Wight’s very first Chinese restaurant) and Roger grew up in his parents’ hotel, before catering college and cheffing his way around Hong Kong, Australia, and a string of posh London hotels. Finishing up with a sip of whole leaf Royal Chai tea (hand-blended in Arundel), the afternoon draws to a close. All that’s left is to thank Roger and Lisa for their hosting and set a reminder for next Saturday, which from now on will always be ‘doughnut day’.

Cook and Baker | 01983 840080 High St, Godshill, Ventnor PO38 3HZ

One Lump or Two?

For the tea leaf connoisseurs amongst us, local brand Wight Label Tea offers a classier alternative to trusty old Twinings. Brought to you by the people behind Caffe Isola and Island Roasted Coffee, their range includes ten specially selected varieties, each full of flavour and wrapped up in completely biodegradable pyramid tea bags. Brews include a rich and malty South African Rooibos, a fragrant Egyptian chamomile and a refreshing Peppermint Tisane (made from mint leaves freshly plucked in Poland). If your cup awaits a more full-bodied mixture, they also offer an award-winning All Day Breakfast Blend, containing a finely balanced combination of Kenyan, Rwandan and Indian Assam tea.

Wight Label Tea | 01983 524800 (Café Isola) 85A St James’ St, Newport PO30 1LG

Yarmouth Deli | 01983 761196 1, The Square, Yarmouth PO41 0NS

Shrimply the Best

If you want to take your afternoon tea into a more al fresco dimension, then pack a picnic blanket and head to Yarmouth Deli to fill your hamper with the best artisan produce around. Take your pick of Cornish Yarg or Dorset Red cheese, local jams and Wild Island drizzles, fresh olives, and toasted crackers. Time it right and you might be able to intercept Head Chef Kevin bringing out his profiteroles, meringue nests and Portuguese tarts, fresh from the deli’s oven. If your tongs are clanking at the thought of a beachside barbeque, the team can also supply BBQ packs — and with the return of the first fish counter in Yarmouth for 25 years, flame-grilled prawns are back on the cards too!

Fit For a Queen More tea, Julia?

Over at Ventnor’s Royal Hotel, Head Chef Matt Egan and Pastry Chef Hubert Zuchowski have been busy curating a new and extra regal afternoon tea for 2022 — to mark Queen Elizabeth’s 70th year on the throne. No stranger to visiting monarchs, the hotel hosted Queen Victoria on a trip to the town back in the 19th century, so they take these things pretty seriously! This spring and summer, guests taking a seat on the Geranium Terrace for this Platinum Jubilee tea can look forward to finger sandwiches (including Gallybagger cheese with Isle of Wight tomato chutney), freshly baked fruit and plain scones (accompanied by homemade jam and Briddlesford clotted cream) and a patisserie selection that comprises rose and chantilly choux buns, a lemon tart with torched meringue and an English custard slice. Top tip: upgrade with a glass of Joseph Perrier Champagne if you’re feeling extra jubilant.

Royal Hotel | 01983 852186 Belgrave Road, Ventnor Offering both culinary and cultural treats is Dimbola Lodge, home of pioneering Victorian photographer Julia Margaret Cameron. Julia’s drawing room has now become a characterful tea room, complete with William Morris wallpaper, vintage crockery, and stunning views down to Freshwater Bay. Afternoon teas can be tailor-made and include a shortbread heart and slices of homemade cake, such as chocolate orange or lemon and lavender loaf. And to drink, it has to be tea — Dimbola tea to be specific — grown on a Sri Lankan plantation formerly owned by the Cameron family (and where Dimbola Lodge takes its name from!) Afterwards, head up the wooden stairs to take in the spring exhibition — Creative Cross Currents — mixing a selection of Julia’s rare photographs from Sri Lanka with works by 21st century visual artists that combine both British and South Asian influences.

Dimbola Tearooms | 01983 756814 (Museum and Galleries) Terrace Ln, Freshwater Bay, Freshwater PO40 9QE

Pasta La Vista

While Brits have afternoon teas, Italians have merenda — a small meal or snack between lunch and dinner — and where better to sample it than Ryde’s much-loved outpost of continental cuisine: Ristorante Michelangelo. The trio of Northern Italians behind the business can offer you anything from steamy filled ciabatta to hand-made pumpkin tortelli, or (our personal favourite) toasted croissants stuffed with wilted spinach, goat’s cheese and caramelised onion. For a sweeter alternative (or your second course if you’re feeling extra peckish) swap that tea pot for a barista-made coffee and cast an eye over the cake counter where Sicilian lemon tarts, homemade muffins, and sugar sprinkled cannoli lie in wait.

Ristorante Michelangelo | 01983 811966 30 St. Thomas St, Ryde PO33 2DL

All Aboard

Imagine following the twinkling lights across St. Helen’s Duver one late afternoon in summer, to discover an exquisite afternoon tea laid out before you. Rugs and cushions spread out on the grass, low tables covered with charcuterie boards of cured meats and fine cheeses, alongside sharing platters of bespoke cakes and sweets. No, this isn’t a hallucination, it’s exactly what’s on offer from Lauren Ellingham of Boho Cartel. You name the location (an event, a garden, or an outdoor public space) and any dietary requirements and she handles the rest, setting up the perfect picnic and afterward leaving no trace of the fun that was had. All you have to do is simply turn up and enjoy. After a successful stint in Sydney, Lauren brought the brand over to the Isle of Wight in time for summer 2021 and has big things planned for the coming months.

BoHo Cartel | 07938 063764 www.facebook.com/bohocartel