8 minute read
Destination Arreton
by Rebecca Lawson
THE HEART OF THE ISLAND
With a green and gold patchwork of fields gently rolling into the distance and a small village snuggled between them, Arreton is the very definition of a rural idyll. Boasting a captivating backstory filled with history’s superstars; a fascinating church with literary connections; a plethora of delicious locally grown food and a shipwreck museum, this is a village that has plenty to offer visitors of any age and ilk.
Arreton’s patchwork fields turn golden in autumn as the harvest comes in
Nestled in the heart of the island, Arreton is home to a stretch of land that encompasses farms, nature reserves, bike paths, shops, and eateries. The main hub of the area is Arreton Barns. Located at the top of the main road just as it begins to dip into the village proper, this quirky collection of shops and museums is a ‘must explore’ in the area.
On arriving, visitors are greeted by Thomas Cochran’s artisan jewellery store, elegantly showcasing a collection of stunning pieces inspired predominantly by the ocean and made right in the store. On your visit to the shop, you’ll discover burnished silver urchins, sea stars, cowries, and clams draping luxuriously over natural driftwood and beach stones — the collection simply begs to adorn sun-kissed wrists, throats, and ears. Created from moulds taken directly from shells and other sea treasures, each piece is an exact detailed replica of the original item, many of which have been collected on the sands of such exotic destinations as Mauritius, Mozambique, and Cuba.
Sartorial splendour for discerning gents... ..and striking scarves for a spot of colour
The designs aren’t limited to the sea, however, and not all inspiration has come from abroad. The stunning English countryside around Arreton and the Island’s sweeping coastline both play a starring role — bumble bees, acorns, limpet shells, and mussels all act as muses. Any visitor knows, however, that this is not surprising — who could fail to be inspired by the Island’s natural wonderland? Move further into Arreton Barns and you’ll come across the Corn Exchange. Perfect for a leisurely browse, the shop features unique homeware and fashion including embroidered linen nightgowns straight out of a Jane Austen novel and flowing scarves to brighten any outfit. Gentlemen browsers are not forgotten — they’ll be kept busy choosing between butter-soft leather wallets, vibrant ties,
and trilby hats in a variety of colours suitable for any season. Continue your wander and you’ll discover tarot cards, craft supplies, jaw-breaking sweets, and hand-made children’s wear. Look closely and you may even spy Isle of Wight ghosts for sale along with their tragic stories. At lunchtime, there’s the Dairyman’s Daughter pub for a quick bite and a drop of locally brewed ale, or rest awhile with an ice cream next to the ancient carp pond, which is tickled by weeping willows and ringed with huge gunnera plants — fish and duck food is sold in the nearby Maritime Museum and Shipwreck Centre if you’d like to feed the locals.
While you’re there, spend some time exploring the museum, where you’ll find comprehensive displays on the rich maritime heritage of the Island. The collection is one of the largest of its kind in England and includes displays from the Middle Ages right up to the submarines of World War II. There is even a section on the submerged prehistoric settlements found around the Island — the most notable features 8000-year-old artefacts excavated from a Mesolithic settlement on the Bouldnor Cliff near Yarmouth. When you’ve finished marvelling at the museum’s treasures, follow the shaded pond-side path and you’ll discover one of Arreton’s most enduring stories. Quietly nestled on its gentle mound, St George’s Church has sat, dignified and
St George’s Church dates from before the Norman conquest Find garlic in all its guises on the menu at the Garlic Farm...
immovable, since before the Norman conquest. Eagle-eyed visitors will spy the grave of Elizabeth Wallbridge, the local dairyman’s daughter, whom the pub is named for. The 19th-century story of how she found religion and turned her back on a wayward life was written by the reverend of neighbouring Brading Parish, Legh Richmond. His work, titled the Annals of the Poor, became something of a best seller in his lifetime. So popular was his writing that Queen Victoria herself is recorded as visiting St George’s and sitting for a while at Wallbridge’s gravesite. After a peaceful visit to the church, return to Arreton Barns through the rusted metal gate and turn right at the end of the shaded path. Here you will spy the Isle of Wight Glass Museum. With an open studio where visitors can watch the artists at work, the museum showcases an extraordinary range of glassworks from tiny animals to huge urns. Colours abound throughout the displays — from deep crimsons to ocean blues and citrus yellow. Don’t miss the refined Walking Lady in citrine glass, who casually glances over her shoulder as the folds of her dress hug her waist. This elegant Art Deco figurine is not only breathtaking to look at, but the piece’s history makes it incredibly rare. The Walking Lady was created in Bohemia in the workshop of ninth-generation glassmaker, Josef Riedel, at the start of World War II (1939). During this period, the world-renowned Czechoslovakian glass industry ground to a halt, with many artists killed or imprisoned. This makes the pristine survival of the piece nothing short of a miracle. Feel like a walk after marvelling at all those stunning displays? Then head up to Arreton Downs Nature Reserve. Run by the Hampshire and Isle of Wight Wildlife Trust, the reserve is beautiful all year round. Take your bird-spotting book and look out for goldfinches, buzzards, kestrels, and barn owls among many others. You’ll also find ancient burial mounds and old monuments strewn around the area. The real draw of Arreton Downs, however, is its cast of vivid butterflies. Chalk hill blues flood the area with pastel hues in the summer months, when you can also spot a healthy assortment of adonis blues, brown arguses and the odd painted lady here and there. Head a little further afield along the Downs Road (which borders Arreton to the north), turn down the steep, dusty lane poetically named Lime Kiln Shute, and you’ll come to one of the superstars of local produce on the island, the Garlic Farm. Wildflowers burst into vibrant colour around the property when the weather warms
...and learn how it is grown. Prime butchery and family pride at Harvey Brown’s... ...where they’ll even do the cooking for you!
up and a menagerie of squirrels, peacocks, and other wildlife can regularly be seen roaming the grounds. Tours of the property can be taken on foot or in guided trailer rides, which are a big favourite with kids both young and old. This is a great way to introduce children to the importance of fresh, locally sourced food as they spy the garlic growing in the fields between the months of January and June, and learn how it is harvested and turned into delicious dishes for lucky diners to savour.
With all that garlicky goodness around, it is no surprise that one of the biggest draws at the Garlic Farm is its restaurant. Whether you fancy coffee and cake or a full meal, you will not be disappointed. The menu changes seasonally, but if you get a chance to try the pulled salt beef, don’t let it pass you by — the cattle are reared in the open pastures around the farm. Garlic isn’t the only crop grown and celebrated locally. Arreton is also home to the Tomato Stall, producing unusual varieties of this versatile fruit including chocolate marmonde, green tiger, and yellow cherry. Travel further along the A road and, close to the lush banks of the River Yar, you will find Arreton’s newest food celebrity, Harvey Brown’s. Formerly Farmer Jack’s and located in Arreton Barns, the venue is owned and managed by the Brown family, who are Arreton farming royalty. The new venue is certainly run on a wealth of local knowledge — they’ve been growing asparagus, strawberries, root vegetables and more here for four generations. The property boasts a stunning purpose-built larch-clad building located on Hale Manor Farm, with a food hall, deli, and butchery where you’ll find all you need for a delicious home-cooked meal. If you’d rather someone make your lunch for you, there’s always the café. Its delicious menu offers a range of constantly changing distinctive dishes packed with locally sourced produce. You can eat your meal in the rustically upmarket interior, or choose a table nestled next to the property’s willowframed lake. And now, if you’ll excuse me, I’m going to take my dusty old copy of Annals of the Poor and a fresh-brewed cappuccino down to one of those outdoor tables where I can soak up that halcyon view of the heart of the Island.
