News from all the major fashion locations
Jan Werner Robert Fox
-
AW13 styleyes
digest
FASHION
fashion digest
AUTUMN/WINTER 2013
MY LITTLE PONY-TAIL
DK N
DE L A RENTA |
O
AR SC
O
| Y E AH Y E A H |
M LLY
Y
WI
A
RI O
E
| RTE
OTO
E MOOD IN TH FO IM
| BRYAN FE OVE RR RL
NYFW:
JUIC
OR S LK
Y|
U
PEPPER | BUTTHO LE ON
UP THE JAM MPSURFERS Y | THE NJEREMY SC
GIRLS | BEASTIE B OY T| S O T . I .G MICH A SB
PU
MODEL MUSE OF THE MOMENT, IRINA KRAVCHENKO INSPIRED ALEXANDER WANG’S COPPER PONYTAILS FOR FALL 2013. WANG REFERENCED EXTREME OMBRÉ AS A NEW TRANSITION FOR DIP-DYE LOCKS
FUR-REAL
RO D
CONTROVERSIAL AS IT SEEMS, FUR IS BACK ON THE RADAR. WHETHER SPORTED ON A COAT LAPEL, SPLAYED AS A COSY SHRUG OR PIECED IN VARYING MOTIFS, FUR IS THE ONLY LOGICAL WAY TO KEEP WALM
ROITFELD RUCKUS
IN A MOVE THAT MADE FASHION HEADLINES, CARINE ROITFELD WAS NAMED GLOBAL FASHION DIRECTOR OF HARPER’S BAZAAR LAST OCTOBER. ROITFELD’S INAUGURAL BAZAAR EDITORIAL DEBUTED INTERNATIONALLY IN FEBRUARY IGNITING GOSSIP ON THE FROW DURING NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
RUMOUR HAS IT JOHN GALLIANO WAS BACKSTAGE AT THE OSCAR DE LA RENTA CATWALK SHOW THIS SEASON. THE DESIGNER HAS BEEN LENDING HIS DESIGN PROWESS TO NEW YORK’S GODFATHER OF FASHION
SET ME UP, WATCH ME FALL JASON WU
THE ROW
RODARTE
MARC JACOBS
CHANDELIERS, LIGHT STROBES, A PRIVATE MANHATTAN APARTMENT, ONE GIANT GLOWING ORB OF LIGHT AND A GLOOMY BOXERS FIGHT HALL. THIS SEASONS SETS WERE ELEVATED, ECCENTRIC AND AMBITIOUS TO SAY THE LEAST
MARY MARY QUITE CONTRARY, HOW DOES YOUR GARDEN GROW?
EVER THE ECCENTRIC, THOM BROWNE STUNNED HIS AUDIENCE BY PRESENTING A COLLECTION ADORNED WITH 3D FLORAL BLOOMS. ALICE IN WONDERLAND MEETS THE QUEEN OF HEARTS
RAG & BONE
THE SLIDE-HANDLE CLUTCH WAS EVERYWHERE ON THE NEW YORK CATWALKS. WORKING AS BOTH A FUNCTIONAL AND STYLISH ALTERNATIVE TO THE ORIGINAL CLUTCH, THIS BEAUTY COMES UPDATED WITH ADDED STRAP SECURITY. DESGNERS OPTED FOR NEOPRENE, ALLIGATOR AND QUILTED SUEDE FINISHES
BEANIE, MEENY, MINY, MOE
HAND LUGGAGE
THE BOYFRIEND BEANIE KEPT MODELS WARM WALKING VIRTUAL LENGTHY RUNWAYS. SEEN AT DKNY AND BCBG MAX AZRIA, THIS WINTER STAPLE WILL ADD PRACTICALITY TO ANY OUTFIT
WHATEVER THE DAY, NEW YORK FASHION WEEK WILL KEEP YOU ON YOUR SARTORIAL TOES PRABAL GURUNG
ZAC POSEN
ALEXANDER WANG
A SCHOULER ENZ RO
P
DISMEMBERED VELVET CUT-OUTS
DNA + FASHION = GENIUS
CHRISTOPHER KANE TURNED TO THE INNER WORKINGS OF THE HUMAN BRAIN, AN MRI OF IT IN FACT, WHICH INSPIRED THE PULSATING THRONG OF A DEBUT COLLECTION UNDER THE HELM OF FRENCH CONGLOMERATE, PPR.
O EID
SCOPIC PATTERNS
K AL
ERLY EMRO AINT IDE DP
RY
BO L
BANDAGE LAYERING
APPLIQUÉD FLOWERS
YOU COULD SENSE THE LUXURY DIAL HAD BEEN SPECTACULARLY TURNED UP THANKS TO A WICKEDLY EXCESSIVE 60 LOOK COLLECTION, A FIRST FOR KANE, WHICH FEATURED A SMATTERING OF RETROSPECTIVE INFLUENCES AND INTERLUDES OF WONDERFUL CRAFTSMANSHIP
WITH PRINT
PLAYS
3
DIM
PETER PILOTTO
ENSIONAL C
S -OUT BURBERRY PRORSUM
UT
WHERE THE WILD THINGS ARE CITY SKYLINES, IRIDESCENT BACKDROPS, LACE WALLS, INDUSTRIAL SPACES. LONDON BRINGS THE SURREAL TO FASHION WEEK
ERDEM
MARY KATRANTZOU
TOPSHOP UNIQUE
LIGHTS, CAMERA, ACTION
BURBERRY PRORSUM
MIND GAMES
OBE COLD S R | PALO NE M STO TER KAREN BUR BE IF
ROCHA
MATTHEW WILLIAMSON
Y RR
JONATHA
N
ME
SIM H ON A IT A F PRORSUM | HOLD E
D|
MARY KATRANTZOU
THE JATMOM FOR
P ER
UP
ERS | ALL A PO U ND
IES | NIRVANA
RICHARD NICOLL
SIMONE
AT
SA
COMET | LONELY D
NIGHT
O
L OG
PROM
|T
| LEY
MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF
LFW: PUMP
| CANDY | LOW ER CHA D RO M ODELL TEM
S EN
GUESTS AT THE MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF PRESENTATION ENTERED THE SHOW SPACE TO THE STRAINS OF RAVEL’S BOLERO. ONE REASON THAT PIECE OF MUSIC IS SO EARWORMINGLY FAMILIAR IS THAT ITS CENTRAL MELODY IS REPEATED NO FEWER THAN 18 TIMES; NEUROLOGISTS HAVE SUGGESTED THAT THE COMPOSITION ITSELF IS PATHOLOGICAL. APPARENTLY, RAVEL’S BRAIN WAS DEGENERATING AS HE WROTE IT. ED MEADHAM AND BEN KIRCHHOFF MAY OR MAY NOT HAVE BEEN AWARE OF THAT FACTOID, BUT AT ANY RATE THEIR MUSICAL SELECTION WAS APT
R
TOPSHOP UNIQUE
EYE SPY
TOPSHOP UNIQUE’S DESIGN TEAM HAD THE INGENIOUS IDEA OF HIDING TEENY TINY CAMERAS INTO THE MODELS’ HANDBAGS, SO WHEN THEY ENTERED ONTO THE RUNWAY THE LIVE STREAMERS WOULD EXPERIENCE A MODELS-EYE-VIEW OF THE SHOW SPACE. OH THOSE CLEVER, CLEVER PEOPLE!
PRADA RETROSPECTIVE
“WHAT YOU WEAR IS HOW YOU PRESENT YOURSELF TO THE WORLD, ESPECIALLY TODAY, WHEN HUMAN CONTACTS ARE SO QUICK.” MIUCCIA PRADA
T TO
|V IS
DDIES | MA TT
VE
V ER HE
ET SYMPHONY SWE |T TER
FENDI
GUC
FILM NOIR WALL PROJECTIONS, MOODY WINTER BACKDROPS, TWEED-LINED WALLS, PRISM CATWALK RUNWAYS AND SICILY’S CATHEDRAL OF MONREALE. MILAN INTRODUCES GOTHIC GLAMOUR
FENDI
PRADA
GUCCI
THE PARADE OF GLAMOUR
PRADA
PORTS 1961
CI
NEW SILHOUETTE OF THE SEASON, THE FIT-N-FLARE, SASHAYED DOWN THE RUNWAY ON NUMEROUS OCCASSIONS IN MILAN. RIPE FOR THE FORTIES PHENOMENON, THE FULL BELOW-THE-KNEE SKIRT AND OFF SHOULDER NECKLINE ARE MORE THAN FLATTERING ON ANY HOURGLASS SHAPE. SEEN AT PRADA AND PORTS 1961
AQUILANO & RIMONDI
FUR PANELLED GOGGLE SHADES FOR FALL? FEEL THE FUTURISTIC VIBES AT FENDI
THE FIT-N-FLARE
’M |I
BI T
PRODIGY
WHITE
MOSCHINO |
W E. HE
JIL SANDER |
PRA
F
HO
TER | TAR
| DA
E AG
DERANGED | DAVI
DB
UP THE JAM MPOWIE ADE TO GREYFENDI | F
S IRE
MFW: P
U
PRADA
THIS REFINED, ELEGANT, LUXURIOUS BUT SLIGHTLY DISTURBING COLLECTION PLAYED WITH THE RAW AND THE REFINED. THIS WAS A NEW ROMANTIC PRADA OF THE 1980S KIND, AS IF WORN BY WOMEN RELIEVED TO GO BACK TO THE EASE OF ROOMY TAILORING, BUT WITH A LONG LIFE, MAKE THAT “SEX LIFE” - BEHIND THEM
DOLCE & GABBANA
FOR FALL THE BOYS AT DOLCE & GABBANA LOOKED TO SCREEN SIREN SOPHIA LOREN AND THE BYZANTINE PERIOD AS THEIR ULTIMATE FANTASY MUSE. BEJEWELLED AND DECADENT IN ALL HER FINERY, SHE WAS THE TRUE BEARER OF SICILY’S RELIGIOUS ICONOGRAPHY
JIL SANDER
THE JIL SANDER PRISM
“VIGOROUSLY ARTICULATED TAILORING; AS STRUCTURED AS A GEMSTONE, AS INTRIGUING AS MOVING SHADOWS.” JIL SANDER THESE WEREN’T JUST CLOTHES TO TAKE AT FACE VALUE. A DEEPER PROBE INTO THIS MIND OF JIL SANDER DISCOVERED THAT BOTH DIAMONDS AND GOLD HAD GONE SOME WAY INTO CONTRIBUTING TO THE COLLECTION, EVIDENT IN ARTICULATED AND ENGINEERED CUTS. CONCEPTUAL FASHION AT ITS FINEST
DOLCE & GABBANA
MARNI
GIORGIO ARMANI
BLUMARINE
ALL AROUND THE WORLD
Chanel rules CONCEPT L AGE THWEALK RF
FS
D HIS BRIGA L AN D AR
NTLE OF CHIC. K MA
RFA
HANE L’S
EN G
ESSAGE WAS A MAS NM TE HIO CE INTEREST O
FL AU TO
THE CLOTHES
ICA BE IND TED MARK GLO ET
E
D AN D R E A D RME Y
LD, GRAPHIC N BO SI L DO NT C
EA
HE
A
TES WITH MAJOR SU U ET
TH, L AGERFELD’S
FAS
TO
O ME
AW
CORRESP KERS ON AR
LD
ALLY. GLOB
F THE
M
N
D IS
EMENT JUST STAT AS UL RF TORIAL STRENGTH BA T S R
HO
THE B
ORLD DOMINA TI O N
RE
SO
SHOWN ON W E RE THE KS C OO ED BY CC OU T A T
EL
STR
SW HE
W OOK
GT DIN
RMOUS GL ASS ENO DO AN RAN
G THE RUNWAY W TIN AS F IT O POINT
DT
AT
0L WORLD IL LUM I
HOLE NEW LEVEL, 8
HE
W SHO
THE M A GA O G
LIKE A TRIB EO
GL E
TO RA NT
F
N TRA
S. T H
T
ICH EXITED THE M LY R EU ERE NCE IN PARIS. R
UTE N-RO
ODOF CHANSFEILX-ECDLPAIDLGLRAIMDIES — Y
E ICE
EM
FRENETIC SHO OST W
LD, CELEBR
E
IT Y A ND
M
HE
WO
“I’V
AYS
SO S
D TH OUN E WO AR
O-EARTH.”
ARO UN
-TO-EARTH, NOT S UP DO NI R LD
the world
O NG,
, AROUND TH
UND THE WORLD
RLD
ARO
L L AGERFELD.. .A KAR
PUN
R
UND RO ORLD EW
-T WN
DAFT
FEET ON TH EG
K|
EG
Y OT M
OU
ACK
DT
DTR
BUT THIS COLLEC TIO ND OU THE WORLD,
TH E S O UN
CHANEL
AUTUMN/WINTER 2013
THE final BOW MIUCCIA PRADA