BACK REFLECTION

to believe that there are hundreds of thousands of these deer upon the Island. Wolves also must be abundant Joe telling me that in one “Company” last year he counted upwards of 500! Ahead 1 mile.

Note. Grandy’s brook will cost £40 for to bridge & the road £30 to make. Having picked up a piece of galena over a day or two previous to this date I showed it to Joe who pronounced it silver. There was an Indian tradition that some 3 years ago an Indian was travelling northward from the southern shore with his two daughters & that while mounting a steep hill his foot accidently displaced the mossy covering revealed to sight a mass of shining mineral. Having knocks off a portion with his tomahawk he carried it to St. Pierre’s & gave it to the Priest who promised to send it to France & have the supposed silver tested, & that if it is of any value the Indian should have benefit of it. A year afterward the Priest gave this man a small silver cross & $6 in money telling him to keep the matter quiet for the present. Meanwhile the Priest, the Indian & one of the daughters died. The remaining one is still alive & the silver cross is now in her possession! Having accidentally become acquainted with the name of the location of this traditionary mine I was not a little startled on picking up a fragment of galena in its immediate neighborhood. I have little doubt but that there is mineral wealth in this island altho’ Mr. Jukes remarks that discovery of mines must in a great measure be left to chance as the universal mossy covering is an almost insurmountable obstruction to mineralogical pursuits.

NOV. 3RD.

Gloomy and threatening, wind S.W. At 5 a.m. we pushed off our raft & had a very ticklish voyage as the timber being small & not very buoyant, we narrowly escaped a capsize in the middle of the stream which was both swift and deep. We saw an otter in this stream when too much engaged to get a shot. At noon down came the rain again but we were obliged to continue on as there were no sheltering woods near until we arrived at the North Arm brook of Connoire just about sun set. We encamped on its eastern band as we could not find a convenient crossing place. During the entire march we had only come across 3 ptarmigan & these “We begut” (Joe’s dog) frightened away. Our dogs being almost frantic with hunger, ran madly after every partridge they saw. We could only afford them a mouthful of biscuit as continued bad weather had not only delayed us but also materially lessened the bulk & quantity of our bread. At 7½ p.m. it poured down in good earnest & we crept under our silk wet and cold to pass another miserable night. Ahead 10 miles.

Note. Two small streams which we forded today will cost £30 to bridge as there was no timber growing on their banks & the river on whose banks we are now encamped about £40. about 2 miles north of us where the road must run we could have escaped several nasty deep gulshes which we were now forced to scramble through. The road will average £30 per mile. Land miserable except in the bottom of Grandy’s Brook & Connoire river where there are some good spots of natural meadows.

NOV. 4TH.

Our camp was a good deal torn from the gale of last night but it held up bravely. As it was still raining & blowing we could not proceed, so I sat down to hear a few more of Joe’s yarns. Among others he repeated from a book of traditions (written in the Indian allegorical language the native explanation of the cause of thunder. “We not know,” said Joe, “for long time what make thunder noise. One day squaw sit all alone in wigwam in wood, by and bye in come three little small white men with very big heads, big mouth, & long hair like gold, they say to squaw, we make thunder with mouth. God tell us ‘you go make thunder in clouds suppose you stop & make no thunder one year. I go down and destroy all the world. That’s the way Captain we know what make thunder, and added Joe seriously. “ I not heard much thunder long time now I think soon world finished”. Instead of laughing at his story I merely remarked that it was very wonderful, and I told him how we accounted for thunder. He listened very attentively until I had finished & then quite simply replied that he tho’t his own explanation “more true”. Had I laughed at his tradition I should have lost many an amusing narration from his carefully preserved “book of history”. At 3 p.m. the wind got round into the N.W. & we endeavoured to find a crossing place. In vain however was our trial & the result was that altho’ the brook was not particularly broad we had, in consequence of being one continuous boiling rapid, to face down to salt water thro’ deep gulshes & droke of timber. This was very disheartening as we could see an easy lay of country for 7 miles just on the other side of this stream. At sun down we reached the arm & whilst Joe was preparing our raft I set to work, erected our tent & headed to the kettle. There were 2 black seals on the opposite shore about 400 years across. Too far for a shot. We had but one day’s bread left now and we made up our minds to cook “Webegut” or “Le

Muche” if too hard pressed again for Joe was getting sick & often wondered how I could stand it. A month’s bad weather, hard walking, poor feeding, wet lying & constant wet feet had not improved the health of strength of either of us. There is no good land in this arm.

NOV. 5TH.

Up before the sun, wind W.SW. & gloomy. At 10 a.m. our raft was ready. The wind now blew strongly which made a heavy lap in the Bay, so much so indeed that Joe pronounced it very unsafe. Being short of food however we risked it & fortunately reached the opposite shore in safety, the dogs swimming after us. We then mounted a steep ridge which we followed up until we could see the line of ground so far as Couteau Brook. There was a clear open barren country throughout that entire distance we faced off S.W. for Duck Island on which Joe said there were inhabitants living. He shot 2 ptarmigan en route & instantly stopped to pluck & cook them, they being the first fresh meat we had eaten since leaving White Bear Bay. At 4 p.m. we reached salt water & on making a signal were ferried across to the Island. This place is a small fishing station. There are 5 houses & one or two potatoe patches on the Island otherwise it is a barren & desolate spot. We passed the night at the house of a Mr. Benjamin Moffatt (late of Hermitage Bay) who was very kind to us. At certain seasons there are immense flocks of wild fowl in this neighbourhood. Ahead 5 miles.

Note. The road today will average £30 per mile to which add £30 for bridging Couteau Brook. Land valueless.

NOV. 6TH.

Wind S.W. blowing in squalls & threatening rain. We determined to start, & at 9½ a.m. were off in a skiff for the bottom of Couteau Bay 4 miles inland from which we again fell in with our old track. We had not proceeded far before down came the rain again, accompanied by snow, we held on our way however until we reached Cinque Cerf Brook which we forded about knee deep and encamped on its opposite bank. As the wind was westerly and every appearance of a fine night we made a simple shelter of bushes and before and immense fire passed a comfortable night. At this time the ground was white with snow. Ahead 4 miles. Note. Cinque Cerf Brook is broad and shallow & will cost £30 to bridge. The road will average £30. Also there is some good land in the vicinity.

NOV.

7TH.

Breakfasted on two “rock ptarmigan” which we had shot yesterday afternoon. This is a different bird altogether from the common partridge of the country, being much smaller with an iron grey plumage. Joe informed me that there is still another species (3 in all) for Newfoundland ptarmigan. At 8 a.m. we were off. Wind N.E. & very cold. The hill tops being capped with snow and the ponds sheeted with ice. We walked at a great pace keeping Joe Paul’s hill a point North of our course. DIAGRAM, Paul’s Hill, distance 15 miles. The cold water in the overflowing marshes made my feet & limbs ache. It was so intense. We passed the eastern arm of La Poile about 2 p.m. & reached the North Arm of that Bay about 4½ p.m. Here we found the “United Brothers” lying at anchor

& we soon made merry over the bake pot; replenished as were her stored with onions carrots & parsnips etc. thro’ the kindness of Mr. Dawe of Burgeo who had put them on board for my use upon our boat’s calling in there on her passage up. We saw several black ducks today but could not get a shot. Ahead 12 miles. Note. The country over which we passed today was very hilly & rugged & will cost £35 per mile; add to which £25 for one bridge & £10 for one other. The land very barren.

NOV. 8TH.

Wind N.E. & very cold. I was sorry to find Dady very ill from rheumatism in the back occasioned by the exposure when last travelling with us. There are two Indian families living in La Poile Bay & I put up at the house of Louis Antoine, a very ingenious man but unfortunately a cripple. He was formerly an immensely powerful & supple man but one day when carrying a barrel of flour on his shoulder he slipt and irretrievably injured his spine. As he played the violin well & had 2 nice looking daughters we danced until midnight & again had the Micmac dance to perfection. Hoping to make a speedier journey by having another Indian with me, I hired one named Benjamin Gabriel to go with us to the Cape which place we hoped, with moderate weather, to reach within 4 days march. I purchased a ham for 3/0 & packed up sufficient provisions for 6 days out from our sea stores. Ordering Captain Jack to proceed to Port au Basque & there await my arrival by boat from Cape Ray.

NOV. 9TH.

Full moon last night & lovely weather this morning wind W.N.W. & at 11