Sunrise City Rebirth by Susan Campbell San Nicolas, the old refinery town that was once the island’s bustling hub of commerce, is now experiencing an exciting revitalization with an explosion of art, culture, cuisine, and a whole new vibe and energy. If you haven’t been for a while, we bet you’ll hardly recognize it!
There’s an exciting undercurrent of evolution rumbling all around the old streets of this historic region that was once pulsating with life. In the heyday of the refinery operations, this was the nexus of activity before tourism began driving the economy to the other side of the island. Workers came from all over the world eager for refinery jobs in the 1920s, and everyone in those days ended up at Charlie’s Bar to socialize – and it’s still there more than 75 years later with the grandson of the original Charlie at the helm! If you stroll around the ghost town of the old Lago Colony, nearby in Seroe Colorado, you might still be able to imagine the echoes of
the lively population (mostly Americans) that settled there to run the refinery in the ’50s. They built their own church and international school, and even had their own social club on the edge of Baby Beach replete with a theater, a bowling alley, and a chic supper club. But after the oil boom busted, the bustling city fell into a deep slumber, and for many years few visitors made the trek unless they were attending the Thursday night Carubbian Festival. Until now. After the total transformation of downtown Oranjestad, the government set their sights on revitalizing the entire San Nicolas 62
region with plans to turn it into a true cultural attraction in its own right. First the old water tower was converted into a modern interactive Museum of Industry highlighting the oftensurprising story of the island’s economic history. Next came Cosecha, an art collective where local creators sell their wares and give workshops to residents and tourists alike. The historic Nicolaas Store has also recently been converted into a community museum, and a carnival village and workshop are well under way. But it was art that really turned this town around. Photo by © Werner J Bertsch
What began as a community project to beautify the streets by painting outdoor murals on boarded sidewalks, turned into an international art movement. Now going into its fourth year, the fabulous annual Aruba Art Fair that takes place every October has since turned the downtown core of San Nicolas into an incredible art walk reminiscent of Miami’s Wynwood district. The works left behind each year by local and international artists have resulted in an explosion of color converting old structures into larger than life murals, some of which are 3-D installations and trompe l’œil pieces. Even the ceramic benches along the walk are works of art. Other festivals are also cropping up like Experience San Nicolas: a monthly farmer’s market, arts, crafts, music, and cultural event. Additional restaurants have opened up to feed
the influx of visitors, and legendary older establishments have upgraded their menus and refreshed their places eager to welcome many new faces. It’s an exciting time in San Nicolas. So, if you’ve never been to the town that locals call Sunrise City, or haven’t visited for a while, do yourself a favor and plan a day trip there. You won’t be disappointed. Savory San Nicolas
Whenever the hipsters, arty crowd, trend seekers, and culture vultures begin to flock to a region, the foodies are never far behind. And now they will be well sated and happy to discover that apart from the amazing explosion of art, San Nicolas is also evolving on the culinary front. On the following pages are a few fabulous spots to visit for great food and drink... E
Meet Some of San Nicolas’ Talented Chefs From left to right: Jean-Pierre Fang – Rum Reef Charlie Brouns III – Charlie’s Bar Oneil Williams – O’Niel Caribbean Kitchen Juan Mora – The Lago Colony Beach Club Kamini Kurvink – Kamini’s Kitchen “Lanchi” Rolando Maduro – Grill Time 63
Kamini’s
Rum Reef
On the way to Baby Beach from downtown San Nicolas, look for the bright cobalt blue and cheery lime green cottage to find Kamini Kurvink’s “kitchen” where flavorful Caribbean and vegetarian dishes abound. Originally a native of Trinidad, Kamini brought real comfort food from her home like curry goat roti to Aruba’s shores and fuses many of her creative dishes with this island’s own culinary traditions. Her warm and welcoming spirit will make you feel right at home even if the fare is often from afar. This true foodie’s find had been a best-kept secret of locals and repeat visitors alike, but now everyone’s beating a path to the place Kamini calls her “dream come true.” Open for lunch and dinner 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Closed Tuesday.
The folks that own JADS dive center and have run the Rum Reef as a superb tiki bar on Baby Beach for decades, have now reinvented the vibe and become a stand-alone, adults-only lounge with their own infinity pool in what was once the theater of Esso Social Club of the fifties. No worries for regulars though, they still serve lots of the same libations that made them famous like bartender Maureen’s potent Monkey Juice, and their legendary funchi fries with cheese, spicy wings, and grilled cuisine are still on tap. There’s a new menu and kitchen coming soon too. Enjoy laid-back and lively music in this chic new location with DJs and bands every so often. Open daily 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. and sometimes later on Sunday.
KAMINI’S KITCHEN
RUM REEF COCKTAIL BAR & GRILL
De Vuyst 41-B San Nicolas sparsan.wixsite.com/kaminis-kitchen S 587-1398
Seroe Colorado 245-E San Nicolas www.facebook.com/rumreefaruba S 584-6070
Grill Time
O’Niel
A legendary hangout welcoming all to enjoy authentic Aruban street-front hospitality. As the name suggests, BBQ is the star here, especially on weekends. Rub shoulders with the locals at their casual outdoor eatery to enjoy either on-the-spot at their wooden picnic tables, or saco-style takeout, which means a little of everything to go: grilled chicken, ribs, beans, rice, corn on the cob, slaw… the works! It’s also an ideal place to sample seriously local food like stobas (stews), sopis (soups), and johnnycakes and salt fish. They also offer steaks, pork chops, wraps, salads, burgers, platters, daily specials, and a bar with premium and exotic drinks. Sometimes they also have live steel pan music on weekends. Open for lunch and dinner. Closed Monday.
Oneil Williams, a Jamaica native, worked for many years as a chef in chic Palm Beach establishments, and he wanted to bring that upscale food to the sunrise side of San Nicolas. So, he opened his own spot right along the new art walk knowing that the added traffic through there would surely get hungry! Enjoy Jamaican jerk chicken, saltfish fritters, roti, but also more upscale specialties like succulent lobster, perfectly grilled steak, scrumptious coconut shrimp, and surprises like lamb chops and garlic conch. The portions are huge and the desserts are decadent. Family friendly. Special menus for special celebrations and holidays are also available. Open Tuesday to Thursday 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., and Sunday 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Closed Monday.
GRILL TIME
O’NIEL CARIBBEAN KITCHEN
Bernhardstraat San Nicolas www.facebook.com/Grill-Time-754794691221689 S 662-8626
B. v/d Veen Zeppenfeldstraat 15 San Nicolas www.facebook.com/OnielCaribbeanKitchen297 S 584-8700
Caribbean • Vegetarian
BBQ • Local
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International • Grill
Local • Caribbean
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Charlie’s Bar Though this has been a legendary landmark watering hole for over 75 years – a true anchor of San Nicolas – and overflowing with incredible memorabilia left behind by millions of visitors, don’t expect simple burgers and traditional pub fare here; they serve real deal meals! Known islandwide for their fresh shrimp steamed in the shell and scampis, their catch-of-the-day, surf & turf, and their seafood chowder, which also deserves accolades. Carnivores will be delighted with their churrasco and tenderloin offerings, and everything is served with a side of their famous homemade honeymoon hot sauce. Their cold local beer and signature drink, Boozer Coladas, are the perfect foil for the heat. Vegetarian specials are also available. Open Monday to Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. Closed Sunday.
CHARLIE’S BAR ARUBA Caribbean • International
Mainstreet, San Nicolas www.facebook.com/charliesbararuba S 584-5086
The Lago Colony Located on beautiful Baby Beach on the site of the historic Esso Social Club that hosted the Americans when they ran the refinery as part of Lago Oil and Transport Company in the fifties. They had their very own colony in Seroe Colorado that included a school, church, and even a bowling alley. This brand-new modern club now welcomes families back to enjoy Aruban hospitality by the sea. Snack or dine inside or out with a great menu of Caribbean and international food and drink. It’s also the only spot on the beach open late for food, and they have a great happy hour daily from 5 to 7 p.m. Kitchen is open from 11 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. and bar is open from 9 a.m. to 8:30 p.m.
THE LAGO COLONY BEACH CLUB Caribbean • International Baby Beach San Nicolas S 560-5078 66
Charlie’s Bar shrimp photo by Luis Mejia. The Lago Colony Beach Club exterior photo by © Werner J Bertsch