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SUSAN CAMPBELL, AUGUST 2018
Whenever I tell people I’m heading to Cancún in August, they look at me like I’ve gone a little loca. After all, why would anyone head to Mexico in its hottest month—especially when the glorious summer in much of the Northern Hemisphere is so criminally short? But I have three very good reasons: whale sharks, sea turtles and cenotes. And, of course, enjoying the cerulean seas and blindingly white sand beaches of Cancún is a lot more economical and less crowded during low season. Don’t get skittish when you hear the words “whale shark” and then learn that this species can grow to be about the size of a school bus. They are not maneaters. They are filter feeders and simply inhale copious amounts of their favorite snacks: krill and plankton. They can’t even swallow fish larger than the size of a quarter because their throat is so tiny. The only danger in swimming around them is getting in the way of their enormous tail as it swishes by you, but that’s where going with well-vetted tour operators comes in. I’ve done this amazing experience four times now, and my best advice is to carefully choose a tour operator. I recently stayed at Secrets Playa Mujeres Golf & Spa Resort, a gorgeous adults-only, all-inclusive property, and they booked my excursion through Cancun Adventures, an ecofriendly and reputable tour operator for snorkeling with these large fish. This outfit only takes 10 people at a time, and the lead guide goes in with each guest, one at a time. You’re encouraged to wear only ecofriendly sunscreen as chemicals sting the whales’ eyes and they will dive down deep to get away from you. Cancun Adventures takes great care to respect the animals and keep its guests safe, too. Done right, this can be the experience of a lifetime. And you can do it only in the summer, when whale sharks congregate around Cancún. Summer is also the best time to interact with endangered sea turtles and help protect them around the Cancún/Riviera Maya region. From May to September, the soft white sand throughout the peninsula is prime real estate for nesting sea turtles. For thousands of years, female hawksbills, loggerheads and leatherbacks all have made their way back to the place they were born to bury their eggs in the sands. Once hatched, however, it’s estimated that only 1 in 1,000 baby sea turtles will make it to maturity. Their very existence is fraught with perils— both natural and manmade—and they really need our help. That’s why many major resorts in the area have sea turtle protection programs and invite guests to participate in baby sea turtle releases. The Ritz-Carlton Cancun has “sea turtle guardians,” and sister hotels JW Marriott Cancun Resort & Spa and Marriott Cancun Resort have a comprehensive program where they monitor the beaches for nests at night, rebury the eggs in a nursery and alert guests to hatching so they can help the babies get to sea safely. There is rarely a dry eye on the beach when this magical experience takes place. For another cool experience (literally)—especially considering Cancún’s blazing hot days—take a dip in any one of the multitude of cenotes peppered around the region. Cenotes are natural sinkholes filled with fresh water from underground, and the water is as bracingly cold as any Northern lake! You’ll find cenotes in all kinds of interesting locations, from surreal caverns and caves to aboveground and surrounded by lush jungle. Tour Xenotes Oasis Maya is your best bet to experience four different types of cenotes in the same day.
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Where to Stay Be among the very first to stay at the new Hotel Xcaret Mexico, now the nexus of Experiencias Xcaret Group’s famous ecopark attractions. It’s an exciting new ecoaware, all-inclusive resort, and a stay there gets you complimentary entrance and transportation to all of the company’s parks. For a more luxurious boutique escape, the all-inclusive Zoëtry Villa Rolandi on Isla Mujeres is the spot.
Where to Eat Cancún has scads of fine-dining spots, but for authentic Mexican in a lush jungle, head to Oscar & Lalos Restaurant Bar and Grill near Tulum—well worth the trek off the beaten path. The owners also run a small ecotour company, Riviera Adventours, offering intimate active explorations of the region.
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