14 minute read
Multifarious Mountains Seven tours to pick from
Multifarious Mountains
Bressanone/Brixen, Chiusa/Klausen and their surroundings are perfect for hiking: no matter the season, for young and old, sporting or leisurely. COR presents seven very different tours.
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1
The Cultural Course
On the trail of Romans, witches, and druids
An easy hike on ancient cultural grounds: that’s the Archaeological Trail (Archeopfad) near Bressanone. Past prehistoric finds, Roman settlements, and mystic cupmarked stones where witches and druids once convened, as the legend goes.
We start at the Ponte Aquila bridge in the centre of town, following the Archaeological Trail through the picturesque neighbourhood of Stufles/Stufels, the oldest part of Bressanone with its historic buildings and narrow alleys. We continue to Costa d’Elvas/Kranebitt, leaving the town behind and hiking up a gentle incline towards the village of Elvas, passing orchards, vineyards, and woods on the way. Our route takes us past cup-marked stones, such as the picture stone of Elvas. These mysterious stones are considered ritual sites—but according to more downto-earth sources, it is also possible that they were mere mortars. In any case, there is something magical about them. We take a small break here, imagining the stories these old rocks would tell, if only they could speak. A little further along the way, we spot a rebuilt wooden Roman tower. As the child-friendly Archaeological Trail has barely taken a toll on us so far, we have time to climb the small nearby Pinatzbühel hill, which was populated even back in the Bronze Age. It was home to a hillfort, where the inhabitants would come to trade and seek protection in times of war. Near the village of Elvas (population: approx. 300), 9,000-year-old finds dating back to the Neolithic and Chalcolithic periods were discovered, and the Raeti and Romans are rumoured to have settled in the area, too.
We continue past the church of Elvas, and on our way back to town we encounter yet more remains of Roman times: ancient wheel ruts left by Roman carts. The most curious artefact of all awaits us at the end of the trail: the “Witches Slide”, a rock bearing mysterious tracks, which may have been part of a prehistoric fertility cult.
Archaeological Trail
Duration: 2.5 hours
Distance: 6 kilometres Difference in altitude: 300 metres Starting point and terminus: Bressanone, Ponte Aquila bridge
The Archaeological Trail, an easy hike on ancient cultural grounds, provides sweeping views of the Bressanone valley basin.
Geography 101 All locations are marked on the map on page 4.
2
Mountain Climbing
Reach for the stars
The trickiest spot is right below the summit: we are but a few via ferrata passages away from the summit cross of the mighty Peitlerkofel mountain, 2,875 metres above sea level. While sure-footedness and a good head for heights are required, the rope-secured via ferrata does not pose a particular challenge for experienced mountaineers. A few more pulls, and the ascent is complete—and you can enjoy a breath-taking view of the Langkofel mountain and the Geisler peaks. Real early birds are treated to a spectacular sunrise here.
The impressive Peitlerkofel, “Sasso Putia” in Italian or “Sass de Pütia” in Ladin, is located in the Puez-Odle Natural Park, marking the north-western end of the Dolomites. The hiking area is easy to reach from the village of Luson/Lüsen.
Our summit tour starts at an elevation of 2,007 metres at the Würzjoch Pass, which connects the Eisacktal and Gadertal valleys. Following trail no 8A we walk south for a little while and then turn right, passing below the north face of Peitlerkofel. We cross the wild and romantic Kompatsch meadows and a rocky slope, which takes us to trail no 4. We follow the trail up to the Peitlerscharte ridge (2,357 metres), which takes us about one and a half hours. The way to the summit will be yet another ninety minutes.
Peitlerkofel Mountain
Duration: 5 hours Distance: 11 kilometres Difference in altitude: 800 metres Starting point and terminus: Würzjoch Pass (2,007 metres)
We descend along the same route, but this time, shortly after clearing the Peitlerscharte ridge again, we’re having a celebratory beer at the Schlüterhütte hut (called Rifugio Genova in Italian), which we passed without stopping on the way up. Anyone who’s not up for rope-secured via ferratas can branch off before we reach the summit and climb the mountain’s smaller peak instead, which will allow them to admire the main summit from a distance.
But King Peitler is not an exclusive destination for adventurous mountaineers. Anyone who prefers to view summits from a safe distance can simply hike around this impressive mountain. The circular hike, too, starts from Würzjoch Pass. Following trail no 8A, the route leads towards the summit, then keeps right at the fork in the road and continues towards the Peitlerscharte ridge, the highest point of the circular hike. Rather than continuing towards the summit, the route dips down again, following the trails no 4B and 35 across lush green mountain pastures to the Gömajoch Pass, and approximately thirteen kilometres and five hours later, we’re back where we started.
A shorter hiking trail which is well-suited for a family tour is the Zirbelkieferweg (Swiss Pine Trail) in the upper Lüsen Valley. In three hours and with only a small difference in altitude, the circular trail starts at the Kalkofen mountain tavern and leads to the Schatzerhütte Alpine hut and back, always with a view of the mighty Peitlerkofel.
3
More Than One Day
On a hiking high
When the blister on your heel bursts open at some point on day three, you wish you had heeded the warning of your super-sporty neighbour, who recommended blister plasters. Instead, the only thing plastered was the smile on your face as you were listening politely and then went on to ignore him—the way you always do whenever this insufferable know-it-all dumps all his worldly wisdoms on you; unsolicited, of course.
A four-day hiking tour is no easy feat even for the average sporty person: aching muscles, sore feet, a light sunburn. But still the endeavour is more than passable, for the splendid view of the Dolomites along the entire route and the cosy mountain huts, mountain inns, and alpine guest houses soon make you forget your aches and pains.
Ever since we started out from Rodengo/Rodeneck two days ago, we have walked across Alpine meadows in full bloom and crossed craggy rock formations, met cows in their pastures, and listened to the whistling of the alpine marmots or “Murmelen”, as they are referred to locally. Along the way, we see the towering peaks of the Peitlerkofel, Geisler, Langkofel, Plattkofel, and Schlern mountains.
Our feet are feeling better by now, because when we told another hiker the story of our little inconvenience, he was more than happy to help out with a plaster—in the mountains, people help and support each other. And so we can enjoy the little secret gems by the wayside: at the Würzjoch Pass, for instance, geological layers surface which make hundreds of millions of years of earth history come alive. For the landscape that fascinates mountaineers today used to be the bottom of the sea millions of years ago. The calcareous skeletons of the sea dwellers which deposited over time formed the Dolomites of today, giving the “pale mountains” their brightly shining colour.
Our sunburn is shining brightly, too, but our eyes are shining even brighter at the end of the tour: for our sporting achievement, for the things we’ve seen and the rewarding experience.
A four-day tour is not a walk in the park even for the average sporty person. But the splendid view of the Geisler peaks from the Zendleser Kofel mountain soon makes you forget your aches and pains.
Dolorama
Duration: 20 hours (4 legs of 3–6 hours each)
Distance: 60 kilometres Difference in altitude: several ascents and descents Starting point: Zumis car park, Rodengo
Terminus: Laion/Lajen village
4
Family-Friendly
Easy as pie
It’s more of a leisurely stroll than a proper hike, but it’s a great adventure for the little ones nevertheless: the Gitschberg Alpine Hut Circuit. The more taxing difference in altitude is easily covered by cable car—a thrill ride for the little ones, and with a spectacular view. Afterwards, the easy route, which won’t even trouble the lazier children, leads across Alpine meadows in full bloom. And if they do start to protest, it will help to bait them with spinach spaetzle and shepherd’s macaroni.
We pass a number of inviting huts, from quaint, converted hay barns to comfortable modern mountain inns. On our way from hut to hut, we can enjoy the view of the surrounding mountains or far into Pustertal Valley. It’s the perfect spot for a souvenir family photo.
But there is more to this tour than hiking and viewing alone: there are children
to be entertained, after all. No problem! While the parents are relaxing on the sun terrace, the children can explore the huge slides in the Gitschberg Sun Park at the cable car’s upper terminus.
Other circular trails in the Gitschberg Jochtal area include, for example, the Stoaner Mandl panorama trail (2.5 hours, 8 kilometres) or the Finther Path in Rodengo (1 hour, 3 kilometres); they lead past dreamy mountain streams and quaint farms and are all suitable for families. There are also many easy and not-quiteas-easy summits to choose from if the children are older and have some experience of mountaineering.
By the way, the upper terminus of the Jochtal cable car is excellent for an excursion with children, too: there is an adventure park with climbing opportunities, a petting zoo, a chime of bells in the woods, and trick fountains.
Gitschberg Alpine Hut Circuit
Duration: 4.5 hours
Distance: 12 kilometres
Difference in altitude: 750 metres Starting point and terminus: Gitschberg cable car, upper terminus
5
Action!
Tough cookies only
Ugggh, no, this tour is really not for wimps. We are climbing through the Villandro/Villanders adventure mine, where silver and copper had been mined since the Middle Ages. A miner would manage one to three centimetres a day—every step forward equalled roughly two months of work. When the mine was closed in 1908, there were 25 kilometres of pits and tunnels. After that, the mine became derelict until the Villandro Cultural and Museum Association made the place accessible once again and converted it into an adventure mine.
Water is dripping on us from the ceiling, and we are wading through hip-high water, navigating the maze consisting of the Matthias, Georg, Elisabeth, and Lorenz Tunnels. Sometimes we climb (experience with via ferratas required), sometimes we proceed on all fours (stay out of this if you’re claustrophobic!). Feeling the thrill of adventure? Definitely! Scared? No. Our experienced guides know the way, and they make us feel safe. We feel like explorers, but we are never on our own. After three and a half hours, we can see a tiny speck of light in the distance. The tunnel is leading outside. We did it, and we are very proud of ourselves. We think about how hard it must have been to spend the whole day, weeks, months, a whole short life even, in these narrow tunnels, at 8 degrees Celsius, without any good lamps, without any functional wear, without the safety of knowing that the tunnels were properly secured.
We emerge into the light, looking down at our muddy protective wear. A group of schoolchildren walks past us. They are wearing helmets and protective suits, too. They are on their way to a smaller, shorter, less demanding tour. A girl asks, “Are you all right?” We nod and laugh. Exhausted but happy.
Feeling like an explorer of old: the Villandro Cultural and Museum Association has converted the old mining tunnels into an adventure mine.
Mine Tour for Tough Cookies
Duration: 3–4 hours Distance: 3.5 kilometres and 150 metres in altitude (70 metres of altitude must be covered climbing) Starting point and terminus: Villandro adventure mine
Advance booking required: Information on all mine tours at www.bergwerk.it
6
Winter Wanderlust
Through the snow
We have picked an easy hike: we’ll be walking from the village of Luson via the Lüsner Alm Alpine pasture to the Pianer Kreuz chapel. It’s an ideal tour for snowshoeing rookies like us.
We are warily eyeing these strange tennis rackets which we tie to our feet so we won’t sink into the fine powder snow. Our first few steps are somewhat shaky, but we learn surprisingly fast how to move nimbly through the deep snow. It is true, then: if you can walk, you can snowshoe. Thanks to snowshoes, hikers can pursue their hobby even in winter. In contrast to ski mountaineering, no special training or technique is required. It is a low-risk activity—as long as everyone remembers their avalanche warnings.
And in Luson we are definitely in the right place; this is South Tyrol’s snowshoeing mecca: via the Lüsner Alm Alpine pasture to the summits, across the rolling hills of the Kompatsch meadows, or over to the Rodenecker Alm alp. Countless trails lead up to the summits, past serviced Alpine huts with a view of the surrounding mountains.
In contrast to skiing, which requires constant focus, on a snowshoeing tour you can let your gaze and mind wander. And there is nothing but snow-covered mountain pastures, towering trees, frozen streams, and summits glistening in the sun as far as the eye can see. Nothing but unspoiled nature up here. And peace and quiet. Paradise.
Lüsner Alm Alpine Pasture
Duration: 4 hours Distance: 12 kilometres
Difference in altitude: 400 metres
Starting point: Tulperhof car park, Luson (1,670 metres) Terminus: Pianer Kreuz chapel (1,900 metres)
If you can walk, you can snowshoe. No special training or technique is required.
Every tenth apple originates from South Tyrol. The apple walks are especially charming in spring and autumn.
7
A Pleasure Hike
Across the orchards
South Tyrol is the apple orchard of Europe. Apples are grown here on a surface equalling roughly 25,000 football pitches; the annual yield is approx. 950,000 tonnes. Every tenth European apple originates from South Tyrol.
We can see this for ourselves on our apple tour to the Naz-Sciaves/NatzSchabs plateau. We take a leisurely stroll in the sunshine from Naz/Natz to Rasa/ Raas and back, across apple orchards and from time to time through a pretty mixed forest, with no differences in altitude to speak of. Our route also takes us past the Raiermoos biotope, where we can observe the fascinating flora and fauna.
We are happy to listen to the apple expert who accompanies us and provides some colourful insight into the world of apple farming. Our guide knows every flower, every bud. But even when you
Apple Tour in Naz-Sciaves
Duration: 2.5 hours Distance: 8 kilometres Difference in altitude: 150 metres Starting point and terminus: Naz village square
are hiking on your own, info posts along the way teach you many interesting facts about apple farming in Naz-Sciaves and the “apple region” South Tyrol.
We learn about old varieties of apple and modern club varieties during our hike; we learn about the healthy properties of apples, about picking season, and all the things you can do with the fruit. We return to Naz via the Via Crucis, the way of the cross, but not without taking in the view from the Ölberg vantage point one last time; then we head for the subsequent apple tasting with our experts, stomachs rumbling expectantly.
We decided to go on the Naz-Sciaves hike in spring because we wanted to see the colourful magic of apple blossom season for ourselves. For some weeks from late April to early May, thousands of apple trees are splendid in white-and-pink bloom. The Apple Blossom Festival is held on 1 May. But the trail is no less beautiful in late summer when the branches are hanging heavy with fruit, or in autumn, during picking season, when the culinary joys of the Apple Festival beckon on the second Sunday in October.