A Hidden Past

Tex t — DEBORA LONGARI VA Photos — CAROLINE RENZLER a n d FABIAN HASPINGER

Towering above Klausen/Chiusa, Säben Abbey served as a Benedictine convent for 335 years. Today the last nuns have left and the abbey stands empty, awaiting the next chapter in its history. We took a final tour through its dark corridors and confined spaces to uncover a world which remained hidden behind thick walls for centuries

Work on the abbey began in 1681 under the direction of Klausen’s priest at the time, Matthias Jenner. The Abbey of the Holy Cross on Säben Mountain was officially founded five years later in 1686 and became home to Benedictine nuns from Nonnberg Abbey in Salzburg, Austria. Säben’s last novice nun recently moved to Nonnberg, bringing this 335-year-old story full circle.

Over the course of the convent’s history, 550 nuns called Säben Abbey their home. In its heyday, between 80 and 90 women lived here at any one time, dedicating their lives to the Benedictine motto of “ora et labora”, which is Latin for “pray and work”. The Benedictine nuns of Säben Abbey lived in strict seclusion. No outsiders were allowed inside the abbey’s walls and its occupants rarely ventured into the outside world.

The abbey was kept financially afloat through the dowries which each woman had to put down to enter the convent. Besides money, these dowries could include furniture, appliances and domestic items. Each nun was required to furnish her own bedroom, for example. In addition to making a financial contribution, nuns were also expected to make a social contribution. In some cases, nursing or shoemaking skills counted for more than physical possessions and money. Leniency was also shown to women who could only offer a small dowry but who could sing well.

Each day the nuns would rise at 5am and follow their daily routine of morning prayer, mass, breakfast, work, lunchtime prayer, lunch, an afternoon rest, work, vespers (evening prayer), dinner, recreation time, compline (night prayer) and finally bedtime. Life in the abbey could be very lonely. The women had to remain silent throughout all these activities. The only time they were allowed to speak to each other was during their one hour of recreation each day. During this, they listened to the radio, played games, read and did embroidery – and sometimes even discussed worldly affairs. On the last Sunday of each month, there was no recreation hour at all, leaving more time for silent reflection.

Nurse, pharmacist, bookkeeper, window maker, cobbler and cook are just some of the 50 occupations listed in the abbey’s logbook of duties. The duties were reassigned each year by the abbess and today the logbook paints a vivid picture of the social structures within the convent. Dividing up the work in this way was essential for ensuring that the nuns could live together in harmony.

A Day in Enchanting Klausen/Chiusa

A medieval town brimming with life and culture

Shop opening times

The small medieval town of Klausen lies nestled between the Dolomites and the Sarntal Alps. For centuries, this jewel of a town beneath the imposing Säben Abbey was a popular stopping point for people travelling between north and south. Over the years, these many visitors gave the old town centre its unique character, which remains virtually unchanged to this day. As you walk from the market square through the Brixner Tor gate, you’ll pass magnificent houses with elaborately designed façades and oriel windows, separated by narrow alleyways leading to hidden architectural gems. Many of these streets are named after the skilled trades, such as tanning, dying and milling, which have always played such an important role in the town’s economy. In a similar vein, the monthly market, which is believed to date back to 1220, remains a popular tradition – the perfect complement to the chic boutiques and shops selling a range of handpicked items, which also attract shoppers to the town.

To really appreciate all that Klausen has to offer, it’s worth taking a break from exploring every now and then. And what better way to relax than by tucking into a slice of fresh strawberry cream roulade paired with a frothy cappuccino or sipping on a delicious glass of white wine from the Eisacktal valley. The town’s traditional inns and restaurants serve an array of tempting dishes, including speck ham dumplings with goulash, spaghetti al pomodoro or pizza fresh from a wood-fired oven – all of which go perfectly with a glass of locally brewed Klausen beer.

Tackling the admittedly steep climb up to Säben Abbey also comes highly recommended. The views across Klausen and the surrounding villages on the southern side of the Eisacktal valley are more than worth the effort. Throughout its history, Klausen’s vibrant medieval atmosphere has drawn renowned artists to the town. Albrecht Dürer, for example, once painted a watercolour featuring the town, which he later used as the backdrop for his Nemesis – The Great Fortune copperplate engraving. It is easy to see why Klausen belongs to the “Borghi più belli d’Italia” association of the most attractive old towns in Italy. The town has always inspired artists with its beauty and is quite simply an unforgettable place to visit, with so much to offer that you will dream of returning long after you leave.

www.klausen.it + Monday to Friday from 9am to 12pm and from 3pm to 7pm Saturday from 9am to 12pm

www.klausen.it/shopping

Klausen Museum

+ The museum is open Tuesdays to Saturdays from 9:30am to 12pm and from 3:30pm to 6pm, from the end of March to the end of October. It is closed on Sundays, Mondays and public holidays.

www.museumklausenchiusa.it

Free town tours

+ Every Wednesday in July, August and September (in German) Every Thursday from mid-July until the end of August (in Italian) Meeting point: Klausen Tourist Information Office, Marktplatz/Piazza Mercato 1, tel. +39 (0)472 847 424