My First Walk in the Pyrenees

8th January 2001

by James Mann

Now for something completely different, not a

butterfly in sight. When Anne and I had lived here in Le Boulou for just over a year I was asked if I liked walking and if so would I like to take part in 'La Randonnee'. I replied yes and I would. I did not know until later that I had

been invited to join "Les Rafals" an exclusive group of seven or eight retired people who

walked in the mountains each Monday. I was told I would need good walking boots,

waterproofs, backpack, food and water etc, all the essential things to safely walk in the

mountains. I was also told I should join the

F.F.R.P. Federation Francaise de la Randonnee Pedestre which apart from anything else

covered me by insurance so that in case of accident I would be picked up by helicopter,

taken to hospital, and treated without charge,

well wotth the 18 Euros so I joined the other

150,000 members in France.

On the day of the walk I was picked up at 8.30am, Anne said I looked like the 11 year old she remembered from school. We drove up the Vallespir to Saint Laurent de Cerdans at 670 metres altitude parking at the old railway station that has been closed since October 1940 when the line along the River Tech was washed away by floods.

We started off at 9-30am admiring the patterns in the thick frost on the cars. Climbing above the village we passed the last few houses and were greeted by the friendly barking of dogs who no doubt would have liked to come with us. We soon entered an extensive old coppiced chestnut forest clearly planted by man. I have read something of the history of the area and discovered that iron had been mined and forged here from Roman times up to the I 960's. In the 17th century the supply of charcoal for che forges was running low so the chestnuts were planted to alleviate this. The sun was shining brightly through the bare branches giving ever-moving patterns of light and shade. The path zigzagged steadily upwards and by about 10-30am we arrived at Mas Couloumer, a farm owned by a trio of Belgians who have been producing goat and cow cheese for 19 years. After having a welcome drink of coffee from our flasks we could not resist the temptation to buy some of the lovely fresh cheese. The path levelled out and we soon arrived at the village of Coustouges situated close to the Spanish border at 780metres. The village has an interesting church which dates back over 1000 years and a 12th century medieval cemetery on whose gravestones it is possible to trace the old family names. The walk moved off out of the back of the village via Rue de Escalier, yes it was like a staircase. My feet were now telling me that I should have worn my boots in more, I knew I had at least one blister on each foot. My eye was taken by what looked like huge piles of reddish concrete. I was cold that there had been many volcanoes in this area and that this was red lava that had picked up stones as it rolled down the slopes and cooled. I have since seen lots of this "prehistoric concrete" cut into blocks and used in the construction of many of the old buildings, including parts of the Coustouges Church. The path now entered a pine forest and we began to encounter patches of snow but with the sunshine in seemed quite warm. The path rose sharply for a few metres and came out onto a wide track leading off towards Spain. After following this for half an hour we came to a stone block at the side of the track with the number 545 cut into it. This was a Borne Frontier marking the border between France and Spain. We all played the game of leaving the country and having one foot in each country. My feet were now really hurting and I asked, "Do we

eat there" pointing to a hill some 100 feet above. "Non la" replied Dominique pointing to Mont Capell, which at 1194 metres altitude looked to me like Everest. Following a steep path through some pines I thought that when we come out into the open we would be there, but no, the top still loomed above us. I looked around at the grass and heather and thought that apart from the rocks this looks like a Suffolk Heath tilted at an angle of 30 degrees. I looked up and there was the top a few metres away, the others had all dropped back to let the new English member be the first to the top. It was a wonderful feeling and the highest I had climbed on foot. There was a strong breeze blowing at the summit but we sat just over the edge where it was sheltered and quite warm as long as you found a spot free of snow to sit on. Sitting down my feet did not hurt so much.

We were sitting in the sun under a brilliant blue sky yet the odd flake of shining white snow was drifting down. In front of us and to our right we could clearly see the Costa Brava coast in Spain and in front of us and to our left we could see the Cote Vermille coast in France. Directly below us in the valley were several French farms, the vehicle access to these is much easier through a bit of Spain as was proved by the French "La Poste" van taking this route with the mail. Dominique produced a bottle of "Banyuls", the local strong wine, and we all shared our offerings for a Grande Repas. After eating we stood on the peak looking at the mountains across the Tech valley. I heard phrases such as "Tour de Batere", "Tour de Mir", "Source le Tech" and with great reverence "Pie de Costabone" and "Huitheure le marche". My feet were saying huit minutes are enough for me. I saw a large building with a tower several kilometres to the right and asked if it was a church. I was told that it was Mas Cremadells a fortified farm. This had not been a peaceful place in the past. I asked if we were going back that way but told "Non par la" pointing almost directly down towards Saint Laurent, my feet were pleased. As I started down the steep rocky path from the top my right knee said, "I have had enough, uphill I don't mind, but downhill No". I hobbled painfully down the path descending some 300metres to a more level track that I found much better going. Re-entering chestnut forest we followed a gently falling path in and out of valley ends and I began to wonder if we would ever get there. Coming into a clear area we met a wide track and there in front of us was, yes, Mas Cremadells. The others said we were not lost and failed to understand my ''Temporarily unaware of our exact location". At least they said they now knew the way back to Saint Laurent. We followed the track that had seen better days, there were still traces of tarmac but it was now mostly stones and potholes. After about half an hour we arrived at another large Mas complex called Mas Noell. The largest building is used by the Education Authority to give children experience of country living. Smaller buildings are still used for farming as was evident by the cows and sheep wandering freely around.

An old car rattled up the track containing two of the farm workers who stopped for a chat. The driver switched off the engine so we could hear. When asked how far it was to Saint Laurent they said about four kilometres. My brain worked out that that meant nearly three miles, my feet were beyond thinking, my knee was just holding up. After a few minutes charring the driver tried to re-start the car but nothing happened. The passenger got out wielding a large hammer, we all stepped back. He lifted the bonnet and gave something several blows at which the engine burst into life. He hopped back in and they rattled off. Setting off along the track we soon arrived at a source (Drinking water spring). We drank the cool clear water, my feet asked to be bathed but I had to refuse, as they would never have gone back into my boots. Fortunately various paths took short cuts across the loops in the track and we were soon back apart from the final 45-degree slope down a high bank to a proper tarmac road. I only got down this by borrowing Yvon's stick and easing myself gently down. Arriving back at the cars at 5.40pm and back to Le Boulou at 6.40pm. Despite having to struggle to get my aching feet and legs out of the car it had been a wonderful and memorable day. Since this first walk I, and my boots, have been on over a hundred more and have