South of the Border 2

Then, with a Buzzard calling over the wood we returned to the cars for lunch and the drive to Devil’ s Dyke.

A heavy shower swept across Newmarket Heath, but we were determined to find our quarry, and Sharon Hearle, our BC Regional Officer and Devil’ s Dyke transect walker, guided us to the likely places for Chalkhill Blue. This has been a bumper season for the species, huge numbers being seen in early August, and although we were now at the end of the flying season we were not disappointed. The exposed ridge of Devil’ s Dyke was not the place to be, but on the leeward lower slope mostly females, with just a few males, clung tightly to nectar plants and grass stems. Here the chalky soil produced flowering Felwort, Yellow-wort, Carline Thistle and Scabious, but it was the Knotweed that enticed the most butterflies.

Then, as the next squall hurtled in we sought cover and an opportunity to reflect on a successful day.

South of the Border 2. The Murs of Rocabruna.

James Mann continues his perambulations in the south of France

The lack of butterflies in 2008 is very widespread. In England it seems to have been caused by the wet weather and lack of sunshine. Here in the south of France our very dry winter and spring has retarded the growth of food plants for the caterpillars and the overcast weather at the start of the summer has resulted in the first ever water restrictions in the Pyrénées Orientals and has resulted in our usual feast of wild fruits being severely desiccated.

On Monday 8th September 2008 as we approached Lamenére I thought back to 6th October 2003 when we had been here and it resulted in ‘South of the Border ’ Suffolk Argus. Volume 35 Summer 2005. Although we were only four weeks earlier in the year the temperature was much higher. We took the path up through the forest to Col de Malrems. As the sun had not yet reached the valley it was pleasantly cool for the climb but directly we reached the Col at 1131 metres and the Spanish border, the sun warmed us up and we basked in it whilst having our coffee and cake among the grazing cows.

Today, instead of turning left to descend to Beget we turned right across the flowering grassland to traverse the other side of the valley to Col Boca Bartella. Flitting among the flowers were many Grizzled and Dingy Skippers together with several Silverspotted Skippers and at the end of the grassland we found a solitary Small Skipper. As we started down the slowly descending rocky path we spotted both Grayling and Great Banded Grayling. What at first appeared to be ‘ whites ’ turned out to be female Cleopatras, reinforced by the bright yellow males. The other ‘ whites ’ we

saw were Pale Clouded Yellows, the first Clouded Yellows were not seen until well below the 1000 metres level.

On leaving Col Boca Bartella we started on a steep, rocky, south facing descent which we knew would be hard going when we returned in the afternoon. On the other side of the valley we spotted the large green mound which was our destination for lunch. After about twenty minutes the path levelled out a bit and we reached a band of trees, here we exchanged Walls (murs) for Southern Speckled Woods. Through the band of trees we came to a lovely green meadow flanked to the north by a sheer rock face and to the south by a huge hedge of blackberries (mures) some 150 metres long. To our pleasant surprise, despite the dry summer, it was loaded with large juicy fruits. As we ate, well stuffed ourselves, and rested we saw both Common and Mazarine Blue, also Gatekeeper and Spanish Gatekeeper. Having eaten our fill we followed the path down to the tarmac road which to the left leads to Beget and the right to Rocabruna. We turned right and crossed the bridge over the Torrent de les Arçoles and walked up in the direction of the village. At the top of the rise we came to an interesting signpost designed to help randonners. It has four arms coloured green with white lettering and just below four arms coloured yellow with black lettering. The arms point in more or less the same directions and largely complement one another, but the times shown vary by up to 40 minutes. We turned left off the tarmac following the path that was signed Cadstell 14 minutes. Half an hour later we arrived at the top of the green mound at Castell Rocabruna (ruins).

It is a typical early medieval fortification situated on a hilltop with all-round observation of the surrounding countryside some 200 metres below. The hilltop is circled by a wall (mur) with defensive towers at all critical points. Inside the wall at the very top of the hill were situated all the main buildings. Much of the stonework has been removed for use elsewhere but the remaining ruins are enough to get a clear idea of the original layout. The grassy banks and shady trees now growing inside the wall make an ideal spot for lunch.

The temperature was around 25º C and with a gentle breeze the hilltop acted as a magnet for butterflies. During lunch we saw Swallowtails, Large, Small and Marbled Whites, Cardinals, Dark-green and Marsh Fritillaries and the odd Painted Lady, Meadow Brown, Small Heath and Scarce Copper, together with several species moving too quickly to identify. After an hour of pleasant relaxation we reluctantly had to leave. We envied the medieval soldiers who could stay there all the year.

We stopped again to top up on blackberries before starting on the hard climb in the baking sun; it must have been 40° C. When we finally reached Col Roca Bartella the hard bit was over and we were rewarded by seeing Spanish Chalkhill Blues and a lot of Burnet moths and Hummingbird Hawkmoths. On the descent to Lamenére we saw the expected Wood Whites. Surprisingly we saw neither Red Admiral nor Peacock nor Tortoiseshell, but best part of 30 species in a day in a poor butterfly year can ’t be bad. A discussion on medieval history on the way back made a perfect day.

James Mann Saint Jean Pla De Corts FRANCE