SUITCASE Issue 7 - The South America Issue by SUITCASE

Tr avel + Fashion

SUITCASE MAGAZINE

CONTEN TS P.56 Trancoso Brazil Rustic Luxury ‘If you are nervoso, come to Trancoso’

P.114 Asunción Paraguay Cultural Awakening A new vibrant art movement and progressive music scene

P.62 Rio de Janeiro Brazil a vida boa Get away from football fever with a trip to the beach

P.130 Buenos Aires Argentina Red, red wine Eat, drink and dance your way around the city

P.86 SÃo Paulo Brazil Brazil’s Metropolis Experience the beauty amidst the chaos

P.118 Punta del Este Uruguay Wild Wild East Eat when the sun goes down, dance till the sun comes up P.124 Rocha Uruguay Roaming Up The Coast Experience beaches the way they should be

2736km of Australian Outback and Four Camels P.22 / Scarlett Johansson’s Year on the Road P.20 / Lurking in the shadows of the jungle P.102

T h e Team Founding Editor-in-Chief Serena Guen Fashion & Production Tona Stell Contributing Fashion Editor Ginger Clark

Design Director Sebastian Bland

sub-editor Lauren York

Contributing BEAUTY EDITOR Amelia Liana

Technology

news & social media editor Unsah Malik

Digital Editor Robin Reetz

Interns

Ela Lempart Kelly Robinson Monica Leung Steph Burt Advertising advertising@suitcasemag.com +44 (0)20 7156 7918 Advisory Board

DIRECTOR Moose Guen Special Thanks

Alexa Firmenich, Angelo Zegna, Camilla Mazzolini, Clara Carulla, Carolina Ramirez Herrera, Fernando Pacheco, Flavia de Pfyffer, Gabriella Paschoal, Ines Gamarra, Isabella Marinho, JoaquĂn Di Liscia, Leticia Bombieri, Lucinda Elliott, Luiza Machado, Ricardo Moreno, Rodrigo PeirĂŁo, Sophie Elliott, Shani Noronha, Thiago Ferraz de Camargo, Tulio Hochkoeppler su i tc as e mag .co m face b ook .com /suitc asem ag az in e - @ s u i tc as e m a g - #SUITCASE i n fo@ suitc as e m a g .co m Printed in Great Britain by Butler, Tanner & Dennis Ltd, Frome, Somerset. Distribution by Pineapple Media Ltd: pineapple-media.com

co ntributors Hans Neumann

Kate Foley

Catherine Balston

A talented Peruvian photographer who has shot for practically every big global publication, hot-blooded Hans is always laughing, even in the scorching heat of our cover shoot. P.74

The former Opening Ceremony buyer is creating a storm as a stylist. Londonblooded but with New York in her heart, she worked on our cover story and loves milk bottles (milkies). P.74

A British foodie at large in S達o Paulo, where she is the food and drink editor at Time Out. Catherine finds the city a thrilling place and her guide shows us around its understated beauty. P.86

Sam Hall aka Goldierocks

Eudes de Santana

Lucinda Elliott

Goldierocks is an international DJ and broadcaster with a celebrity following that includes Madonna and Richard Branson. Her weekly radio show, The Selector, goes out to a staggering 40 countries with over four million listeners. Check out her travel diary to Brazil. P.18

Brazilian-born photographer Eudes de Santana has called many places home over the past few years. Landing straight off the plane from Berlin, he shot one of our covers in the World Cup final stadium, Maracan達. P.46

We dare you to find anyone more passionate about Uruguay than Lucinda. A long-time member of the SUITCASE family, Lucinda is currently working as a researcher for the FT in Montevideo. Follow her guide along the more remote East coast of the country. P.124

Camilla Davies, Camilla Hewitt, Charlie Reader, Demian Jacob, Emma Dudlyke, Fla Radici, Gabriella Paschoal, Guto Requena, Hayley Louisa Brown, Hubert Saint Olive, India Dowley, Kate Rose Morris, Lizzie Ward, Luiza Machado, Mariana Ferrarazzo, Maximilian Guen, Michelle Beatty, Nicholas Kay, Rodrigo Peir達o, Savannah Baker, Sara-Ella Ozbek

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Editor’s Travel Diary SUITCASE’s South American issue was a special one. We have never done as much research, travelled as far or drunk as many glasses of wine in such a short period of time. We chose a route that we felt many World Cup travellers would appreciate and then mobilised part of the London office. There was Tona Stell, Head of Fashion & Production, Sebastian Bland, Design Director, and then me; along the way we banded together to form something akin to the Three Musketeers without the moustaches (but with poofy hair from the humidity.) We started with hidden restaurants and electronic parties in car parks in Buenos Aires thanks to our fantastic tour guides Michigan Rabbit and Mariana Ferrarazzo, who never let us go to sleep before 5am. We rode some horses for a day in La Bamba before flying on to Punta del Este where we landed late at night in what confusingly looked like the English countryside – only to wake up to discover that it actually looked like Miami. Then we started hotel-hopping, ending up in one of my favourites in the whole world, the Fasano Las Piedras. We were just in time to drive a golf car up to the top of a hill, where we drank mojitos and watched the sun set for Tona’s birthday.

Words by Se rena guen

After a flight at an ungodly hour, we landed in São Paulo, our first delicious taste of Brazil, which we have still not been able to get out of our mouths. We were met with the kindest reception I have ever encountered on my travels, and a 30-person dinner organised by the lovely Gabriella Paschoal with the entire fashion scene of Brazil in a private room of Chez Oscar. Having glimpsed the jungle between the concrete of São Paolo, we craved a bit of peace and quiet so headed over to Trancoso. The three musketeers were separated for the first time, each in a different hotel, each with an entire villa to ourselves, which seemed extremely indulgent. We topped up our tans, ate amazing food and stressfully tried to organise photoshoots in Rio. Our guardian angels came in the forms of Rodrigo Peirão and Luiza Machado who magically appeared at the last minute to fix everything. Three musketeers became 15 as we had contributors, models, stylists and photographers flying in from London, São Paolo, Berlin and New York. We battled 4am call times, jungles, 40-degree heat and, for Ginger Clark, a terrible bout of tonsillitis – but it was all worth it to have the entire Maracanã stadium to ourselves for a day. Hans Neumann kept everyone laughing on set and up all night, crazy man, and Kate Foley surprised everyone with her skills on the dance floor. Meanwhile my brother, Max, captured everything on camera, for better or for worse. We ended the trip how we began, with a bottle of wine – but this time looking over Ipanema beach from the Fasano Hotel rooftop. Now it’s time for us to share it all with you. SUITCASE MAGAZINE

In Flight

3 2

1. Muji Airport Pouch £3.95, 2. Muji Travel Bottles £1.25 - £2.50, 3. Muji Eye Mask £3.95, 4. L’Occitane Lavender Hand Purifying Gel £8, 5. Seeso The Planner £19.90, 6. & Other Stories Cleansing Wipes £4, 7. Bobbi Brown Tinted Lip Balm £15, 8. Noble Macmillan Kindle Sleeve £49, 9. Kindle £69, 10. Globe-Trotter Zinc Case £85, 11. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Perfumes Refills £60-£130 10

Books Apps and

Snacks Books

Into the Wild by Jon Krakauer £8.99 On the Road by Jack Kerouac £8.99 Shantaram by Gregory David Roberts £10.99

Apps

TripIt It’s time to get organised. The TripIt app can help to manage any holiday. It collates everything from hotels to flights into one timeline. It also includes directions, maps, activities and weather for each location. Free Tipulator An easy to use and efficient tip calculator. It will especially come in handy for when you are trying to split a bill between a big group of friends. Free SayHi Have you ever imagined what it would be like to speak one language and immediately switch to another? SayHi can help to easily break down language barriers with its voice-tovoice translator. £1.49

Snacks

Frank Strawberry & Chocolate Snack Bar £1 Robinsons Squash’d £2.49 9 Bar Breakfast Bar 90p SUITCASE MAGAZINE

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1. Crème de la Mer SPF 50 UV Protecting Fluid £65, 2. Aveda Dry Remedy Moisturising Oil £17.50, 3. Nude Advanced Renewal Serum £68, 4. Chantecaille Nano Gold Energizing Eye Recovery Mask £185, 5. Lipstick Queen Jungle Queen Lipstick £20, 6. Bobbi Brown Foundation Stick £29, 7. Laura Mercier Full Blown Volume Supreme Mascara £19.50, 8. Aqua Oleum Tea Tree Oil £24.79 12

13 14

9. Aurelia Revitalise and Glow Serum £47, 10. & Other Stories Spray Genie £7, 11. Original & Mineral Hydrate and Conquer Shampoo £8, 12. Ole Henriksen Perfect Truth CC £29, 13. Smashbox Photo Finish Hydrating Foundation Primer £28, 14. NARS Matte Multiple in Anguilla £30, 15. Black Chicken Body Oil £45, 16. Malin + Goetz Vitamin B5 Hand Treatment £16 13

Photographer: Michelle Beatty Stylist: Kate Rose Morris Make-up artist : Camilla Hewitt 14

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swimsuit ASOS, sunglasses Prism

Glow on

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Wo rd s by C a m i l l a H e w i tt There’s no denying fashion will always have a habit of following the sun, with many women feeling more confident when they have a tan. There is a growing desire for a more subtle healthy-looking glow, but the trick is knowing how to achieve it. With so many illuminators, highlighters and bronzing products on the market here are a few recommendations to help you in your quest for this season’s hottest hue.

NARS

Clarins

Body Glow The ultimate multi-purpose beauty oil soothes and moisturises the skin with an addition of rich chocolate shimmer for a natural glow. £44

Radiance Plus Golden Glow Booster One to three drops of this natural formula is all it takes to transform your daily moisturiser into a subtle self-tanner. £18 Chanel

MAC

Lustre Drops Described by MAC as liquid sun, this sheer highlighter blends seamlessly with your foundation to create a sun-kissed sheen. £18 James Read

BB Gradual Tan Face Instantly perfects skin tone while containing a touch of gradual tan that develops to give a light golden complexion. £20.50

Soleil Tan De Chanel This unique cream bronzer comes in one universally flattering shade that leaves your skin with a beautiful sun-bathed look. £32

bikini Topshop, sunglasses Prism

#livinginmysuitcase

, n d br oa d ca st er a DJ l a n io at In te rn o ld ie ro ck s Sa m H a ll a ka G

Words and Photos by Goldierocks I have wanted to visit Brazil for over ten years; so getting to finally experience this incredibly diverse and spectacular country was both a joy and an adventure. Just as I had anticipated, it left me with a multitude of experiences that I’ll remember for a lifetime. I already can’t wait to go back. In true Goldierocks style, I found myself embracing five heavy nights at the Rio Carnival, partying to samba at blocos (street parties) and to axé on Ipanema beach until sunrise, but it wasn’t all about the music.

I devoured Brazilian BBQs, marvelled at the world-famous Sambadrome parade, trekked through the Amazon rainforest, fished for piranhas, took midnight canoe rides to spot caiman and admired the dramatic meeting of the waters in Manaus. To end it all, I spent time in the pretty, pastel-coloured Salvador, where I visited capoeira schools and dined under the stars, soaking up the Afro-Brazilian culture. Brazil has captured my spirit. Goldierocks.co.uk @Goldierocks

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Copacabana Beach in Rio, where anything goes! No matter who you are – a 19-year-old supermodel or an 80-year-old nana – thong bikinis are the order of the day.

Wild monkeys!

Don’t mess with the piranhas… they’re everywhere. We went fishing and caught some.

Inside one of the oldest capoeira schools in Salvador. Capoeira was a way that slaves could continue practicing martial arts combining dance, acrobatics and music.

Straight from the beach to the party. Viewpoint on the corner of Copacabana and Ipanema, Rio. Caipirinha in hand on Friday, the first night of carnival.

Made famous by Snoop Dog and Pharrell... and now Goldierocks and Scotty Broome. Escadaria Selarón, Rio.

Scarlettâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Scarlett Johansson reveals the things that keep her grounded when travelling from continent to continent

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Wo rd s by CAMILLA DAVIES

t 29 years old, A-list actress Scarlett Johansson has been lucky enough to have already enjoyed a prolific career in film. And when your craft involves circumnavigating the globe, a passion for travel certainly helps.

Shooting on locations as culturally diverse as Barcelona, the Highlands and Taipei, Johansson has become adept at packing the perfect suitcase. A regular on film sets since childhood, she’s familiar with globetrotting for business, while her muchdocumented yachting escapades demonstrate that, like the rest of us, she can’t resist the lure of a luxury holiday. The American actress may have a well-stamped passport, but she’s adamant that her upbringing has kept her, in one sense of the word, grounded. ‘I never moved to LA,’ she explains. ‘It was just a step too far for me and that’s why I’ve always stayed in New York – it’s nice to have consistency, to have my friends around me, and to know the place so well. ‘It’s also a great gateway to travel, particularly when heading to Europe for whatever reason, and that’s always been really important to me.’ Born to an architect father, and a mother from the Bronx, Johansson identifies with the urban sprawl of the Big Apple. ‘I know that city better than the back of my hand,’ she declares. ‘New York doesn’t give a sh*t basically, so it feels like we are all crammed together in this one crazy city, these different socioeconomic backgrounds, different races, different cultures. It’s a melting pot; that’s its real attraction.’ And it’s just as well that Johansson is such a fan of life Stateside, given that she may find herself marooned there for a few months this year following the birth of her first child – due later this year with advertising executive fiancé Romain Dauriac. Much of the past year has been spent on the road, however. And despite the actress’s love of cultural diversity, she recently swapped the American metropolis for the rugged contours of

rural Scotland to shoot Under the Skin, which brought about a number of challenges. ‘Well the Highlands were a new travel experience for me. The weather was harsh and it was like Scotland was trying to expel us from the land! But that certainly added to the atmosphere – it’s so much easier to get into a role or into a character when all around you there is so much that’s not normal. There were some fantastically bleak shoots in absolute wilderness and I loved that. I also loved the busy, slightly raw thrill of being in Glasgow, so it was like two very different experiences within the same film.’ Rural highlands and urban high-rises may not have much in common, but both environments afford Johansson one luxury. ‘In New York I can walk everywhere and no one ever bothers me. People in New York… when they see a celebrity, they look, shrug their shoulders, and continue on.’ Playing an alien traipsing the Earth in search of human prey in Glasgow, Scarlett’s role included luring real-life Glaswegians into her van – after filming, the unsuspecting men were asked to sign a contractual agreement. The lack of recognition was refreshing for the actress. ‘I think the film’s intentions replicated the intentions of any traveller – you really want to immerse yourself in the real people behind a place, whether that’s in Glasgow or London or Madrid or wherever. You need to get away from the tour guides and the typical tourist traps, and that’s what we achieved. I loved that.’ While professional paparazzi, in New York at least, are easy to deal with, Johansson reveals that what she calls ‘citizen paparazzi’ are quite a different matter. Laughing, she recounts a tale of being spotted at the airport by a middle-aged woman. ‘She asked me, “Oh, my daughter is your biggest fan and she loves your work so much. Are you Taylor Swift?”’ Perhaps the country pop star can become a useful alias. After all, next time the actress is spotted in the waiting lounge it may be harder to devise a quick escape; a baby in tow makes for a heck of a lot more luggage!

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Tracks

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Mia Wasikowska as Robyn Davidson in Tracks

I n t rod u ct i on a n d in te r view by M on i c a L e u n g

ake yourself back to the year 1977 in the Australian Outback and you’ll spot a 26-year-old Robyn Davidson gearing up for an extraordinary journey – 2736km through the desert with only four camels and a dog to keep her company.

Some years later, Robyn went on to write about her enthralling experience in what became a best-selling novel that inspired the movie Tracks, directed by John Curran and starring Mia Wasikowska as the leading lady. In a surreal interview with SUITCASE, the talented author sat down to talk us through her relationships with camels and why she wasn’t dependent on men during her journey. And she explained to us that the harder she tries to disappear from public, the more she finds she is preyed on.

They tried hard to honour the essence of the book but of course it’s going to be changed. It would be innocent to think otherwise. Your growing love interest with National Geographic photographer Rick and friendship with old Aboriginal Mr Eddie became a crucial part of your journey. What do you think your journey would have been like without them? Who knows? I might still be out there. I think I still would have completed the journey as my life didn’t depend on them. They were all nice things. Well, Rick wasn’t at all a nice thing but I came to terms with him and his part of the journey towards the end and I didn’t depend on him or Eddie for my sustenance. Although, being with Eddie sort of constructed the heart of the journey for me. It gave it a meaning and allowed me to do away with the baggage that I was carrying. It wasn’t through anything he did consciously, but just me watching him and the way that he was.

‘I wrote the book because I felt under pressure from everybody looking at me. I thought to myself, if I write the book then people would look at the book and I’d be able to disappear again.’

Were you overcome by emotion when you saw Mia on set for the first time? I was. It was most peculiar because I wasn’t expecting to. It had been a long time since our trip so I figured that I had gone through the process of divesting myself of it. When I met Mia beforehand, we went ‘bush’ for about four days before the shoot and got to know each other. The next time I saw her after that was at the beach shoot where I saw little Mia dressed in my clothes, sunscreen all over, and leading camels across the dune. Tears were almost coming down – it was stirring, moving, weird, peculiar and emotional. When you saw the movie, did you realise anything that you hadn’t realised or considered during the trip? No, it’s quite true. I’ve written film scripts myself so I’m aware that what you put in a book is very different compared to what needs to be done in the film. Since a lot of time had passed since the book and shoot, I was cool with them doing what they needed to do – if that meant fiddling with poetic licence here and there, that was fine. For example, there was no snake going over my neck in real life but I thought it was a good conception.

How did you spend your time in the desert? I would wake up at 6am everyday, find camels, load camels, start walking and stop walking – that part of it was very structured.

But the desert is so variable because every campsite is different from the one before. When you’re so deeply involved in the landscape, it becomes a character that you’re tuned in to. A lot of different things happened, such as when a bunch of emus came into my camp and just looked at me because they had never seen a human before. I saw some beautiful things too, such as a lizard that I’ve never been able to identify. The animals were great company – it was like being part of a group in that sense. We definitely noticed your extraordinary relationships with animals, especially the camels... They suffer from bad press. I guess it’s because the relationship towards the animals isn’t sentimental in the Middle East – they are beasts of burden and have probably been treated roughly. 23

Rick Smolan and Robyn Davidson

When they’re not suffering they are the most charming creatures. They were very aware of me because I was aware of them. Sometimes, if they had had enough of feeding at night, they would come and camp beside me. I would wake up with Bub’s big lump of a head on my lap. I know it sounds anthropomorphic but I think they really enjoyed the trip. It was fun for them as well. I mean, okay they had to carry the gear but what’s that to a camel? In a way, they knew I was looking after them.

Do you think we have the same freedom now in how we’re able to travel as people did in the 70s? No, I think it’s very different. I feel for young people because it’s as if that need for freedom has been bought off with material goods. You couldn’t do that sort of trip now, there’d be much more red tape and people would be literally trying to stop you. And of course you can’t disappear anymore as you’re watched by satellites and GPS.

This is all quite a personal and private journey. Have you ever wished you’d never published it? I wrote the book because I felt under pressure from everybody looking at me. I thought to myself, if I write the book then people would look at the book and I’d be able to disappear again.

Have you been inspired to do a similar trip? Not like that but I did one many years later because I was interested in nomadism. I went to India and travelled with nomads in a migration. It’s totally different and yet the elements were not dissimilar because camels were used for carrying the gear like they were in the desert.

Of course, it then becomes a bestseller so people look at me again, and now it’s a film so people are still looking at me! It’s almost like the more I wanted to disappear into my own world, the more people wanted to look at me. There’s a lesson in there somewhere.

The camels were under difficulty, which therefore I was under too. We would sleep for two hours a night and found ourselves beset by thieves. I could never, even for a second, be on my own. It was a very difficult trip that made this one look like a doddle but it was interesting and I’m glad that I did it.

‘You don’t have to literally head out to the bush on your own but you can do something adventurous with the world that you’re in now.’

I wrote a book about it too but I don’t want to repeat myself. One of the ways I would like people to look at what I did is as a metaphor – that you don’t have to literally head out to the bush on your own but you can do something adventurous with the world that you’re in now.

What do you think differentiates a traveller from a tourist? Tourism is a commercial undertaking – it’s not what I want to do and it doesn’t interest me. I can understand how, in a world where people work for 11 months a year, it’s not fair to expect them to think of something wonderful to do.

How do you feel about being such an inspiration to young travellers? It’s great. Particularly for young women, I feel, like my daughters and granddaughters. I want them to know that they can do whatever they want to do. So much of the hesitation is in our own heads and not actually real. At the same time, though, I want them to do their own homework too.

Tourism is complicated because a lot of countries depend on it economically but it can distort the local image into something false, although it’s an interesting case in Rajasthan, India, because the place simply couldn’t exist without tourists’ money but it still has such a strong sense of its own identity. They manage tourism without turning it into kitsch.

Have you met anyone since that inspires you or whom you look up to? There have certainly been women in my life who have had a profound influence on me. Doris Lessing was one and I eventually got to know her and she became a great friend and mentor. You know, there weren’t that many women out there to look up to in my generation – there were very few women who had broken through and done extraordinary things.

Are you working on any other projects at the moment? Yes, well, I’m meant to be but who’s got the time? I’m working on a memoir based loosely around my mother, but after that I want to write films. I’m sick of sitting in a room and writing books!

Ayahuasca Wo rd s by Sa r a-E l l a Oz b e k

ecently, I’ve heard Ayahuasca having been described as a fad akin to yoga or juice cleansing – or more worryingly ‘just another excuse to take drugs’. The former I can live with; if it is a fad it can only be so for the right reasons. The latter devalues an ancient spiritual practice, which has been healing lives for hundreds of years in South America and Western Brazil. Ayahuasca – or Mother Vine, as she is referred to in the spiritual practice – is not a recreational drug, but a medicine. It can be used to treat depression, anxiety, grief and even opiate addiction. The drink has been part of Amazonian tribal culture since 500 BC. Traditionally it was used to separate the soul from the body, so that the soul could follow its intentions. I was introduced to the Mother Vine at a women’s retreat not long ago. We call her Mother Vine because of her earthly, motherly healing properties and also because in visions she 26

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often comes as a woman. It is something I’ve wanted to do ever since I heard about it, but when the time came, I was terrified and hardly slept for two weeks. Upon arrival, all my fears melted away when my two friends and I were greeted by the other women, the ‘sisters’, with overwhelming love and acceptance. I had entered what was referred to as ‘a safe space’. There was no judgment and we felt immediately able to throw ourselves into the hippy-dippy side of the retreat. As preparation for the Ayahuasca Ceremony, the Shaman – a wise, holistic healer – led us through group sharing, a Cacao ceremony, Kundalini Yoga and a Body Choir; an interpretive dance practice which is my new favourite class to go to in London. We were encouraged to consider what we wanted Mother Vine to show us. Everything has to be asked for. Questions you want answered, fears your want help with and anxieties you want to

lift. You don’t have to think about these in detail, you just need to have an idea of what you want to gain from the ceremony and then the medicine does the work on its own. These questions all came to me with great clarity during the Cacao Ceremony. Ceremonial Cacao is a drink made from chocolate and is very healing in itself. It stimulates the heart, increases the flow of blood to the brain, oxygenates the skin and heightens the senses. The Ayahuasca ceremony traditionally begins late at night. Everyone wears white. There is no artificial light, only candles and a burning log fire. We started with meditation and a ritual involving shamanic tobacco. Then, thinking I was about to relive the one – disastrous – acid trip I’d had at Glastonbury, I drank the medicine, sat back in my makeshift bed on the floor and waited for something to happen. Nothing changed for a while. And then the part that I had been anticipating began: the purge (or more frankly, the vomiting.) The purge is one of the most healing parts of the ritual. You feel anxieties; negative thoughts and emotions physically leave your body. You don’t go through this part alone. Though you are encouraged not to talk to each other during the ceremony, when you start purging, one of the sisters in service immediately attends to you, blessing you with feathers or holy water and will even change your sick bucket. I remember feeling an overwhelming sense of gratitude and being extremely touched by this at the time. The ceremony is punctuated by the music. Instruments are played and songs sung throughout. If ever you feel in a bad place or like you aren’t in the room, the music brings you around. The amazing thing about it is that it takes you through different moods. There was one particular song, ‘Hare Krishna’, during which nearly the whole room started purging. My main fear about taking Ayahuasca was that I would see things I didn’t want to. But Mother Vine only shows you as much as you can take. Everyone’s experience is different. One of my friends drank nine times as much as the rest of us and felt nothing – she slept throughout the entire ceremony. My other friend, who was already such an open, free-spirited human that I doubt she had a need to purge, was not sick once and danced throughout the night. The ceremonial aspect was what I loved most about the experience. Although I find myself drawn to the idea of religion, spirituality has always sat much better with me. Moreover the sight of women in white dancing in the firelight to shamanic

music was utterly beautiful. This is why it’s so important to engage with Ayahuasca properly. If done wrongly, I can only imagine an unexpected and terrifying experience. To me it seems a shame that it is illegal in many countries, including the UK and US, where it is a Class A drug. In Brazil it has been researched and was formally legalised after being deemed safe. It remains a practiced part of life and growth in Peru and many other countries. The plant contains DMT, a drug that is released into your body when you give birth, have sex and when you die. This brings about a heightened sense of self-awareness, hallucinations – which are not kaleidoscopic visions, but scripts or voices showing you your deepest fears, insecurities and realisations – not something you should enter into unprepared. Furthermore, it’s important to get ready for the ceremony weeks before by cutting out alcohol, caffeine, sex and certain foods, such as dairy and sugar, or the medicine can have an adverse reaction. When taken correctly, as my friends and I did, the experience can be life changing. Many of the women I met there had been drinking Ayahuasca for over 20 years. It was inspiring to hear how the medicine had changed peoples’ lives. Of the stories I heard, it had saved a heroin addict from spiralling to her death, cured a woman of chronic depression and had rescued marriages, children and other relationships from destruction. Ayahuasca also has profound effects on the yoni (womb) and can be incredibly healing to anyone who had problems with sex. The stories of how the medicine had brought women up from dark places of sexuality were the most disturbing, yet most inspiring. Some of the women drank weekly, monthly, or several times a year. Some gave birth on the medicine. And others breastfed it to their children.

‘My main fear about taking Ayahuasca was that I would see things I didn’t want to. But Mother Vine only shows you as much as you can take.’

My experience was that of a beginner – I did not travel into deep landscapes like some did or enter into conversation with a higher power. What I did feel was that I was getting rid of blockages, opening up and releasing the past. And though I returned to my frenetic life as a model agent, I felt lighter. Situations that used to make me feel anxious no longer do. People that used to get under my skin are no longer an issue. The medicine works on you for days after the ceremony and you find yourself reacting to situations in uncharacteristically relaxed and positive ways. The question everyone asks me: Would I do it again? I can’t wait. 27

Aladdin’s Cave:

Pebble London

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What about India’s neighbouring countries? Because they have similar stones and materials. Pakistan and Bangladesh are definitely on my wish list, but Jaipur is probably the centre of the world for jewellery production, and rough stones, crystals and minerals are imported into Rajasthan from all over the world. I see you have a lot of golden Indian necklaces, bangles and rings. Do Indian brides come to you? Yes they do. We have had our jewellery featured in Asiana Magazine, and several brides have visited. One lovely lady ended up ordering a large rough-stone necklace, bangles, and a huge headdress we made with pheasant feathers – definitely an original take on the traditional Indian wedding!

Peter Adler - Founder of Pebble London

Words and Inter vi ew by U n sa h M a l i k P hotos by emma D u d ly ke

hings are pretty hectic at Pebble London these days. Thanks to editorial call-ins from magazines and newspapers, requests for headdresses and jewels for singers and bands, as well as commissions for films and TV programmes, everyone is kept pretty busy. All this on top of dealing with shops, fashion designers, department stores around the world and keeping up with orders from the Pebble London website. But I managed to get a moment to sit down with Peter Adler, the founder, designer and ‘curator’ of Pebble London in his front room – an Aladdin’s cave of crystals, fossils, exotic textiles, tribal art and paintings, where his twin Bengal cats Mitsu and Mitsu happily camouflage themselves on a Moroccan shaggy rug.

Hi Peter. Wow, this is all so amazing. How long did it take to build all this up? Pebble London started 15 years ago on my first visit to India. I fell in love with the continent, as you do, and wondered how I could justify making return visits on a regular basis. At the time I was working with traditional tribal craft, principally from Africa and the Pacific Islands, and had written two books on collections I had put together of textiles from Ghana. I particularly loved the jewellery and headdresses of traditional tribal cultures, and that had a huge influence on what I designed. Although the first pieces I bought were in Kerala in Southern India, I now work principally in Jaipur, Rajasthan, and have the designs of jewellery and objects made up there by brilliant local workshops and craftsmen.

You must have quite a lot of people from the fashion industry visiting too? Yes, over the years we have been lucky enough to work with some of the fashion designers I most admire, including Issey Miyake, John Galliano, Ralph Lauren Vintage, Donna Karan, and, most recently, Alexander McQueen, Veronica Etro, Iris Apfel, Tory Burch, and Tom Ford. We are also visited by brilliant stylists and fashion editors, selecting pieces for their shoots and advertising campaigns. Many of the editors from abroad select from our website, and we ship the pieces to them. The ‘tribal’ look is very in at the moment, and the last three big call-ins last week, from US Vogue, Italian Vogue and the Financial Times, were all for tribal-based pieces and headdresses. What would you say your inspirations are when you design a collection? Principally two things – my love and admiration for the jewellery and adornment of traditional tribal cultures throughout the world, and my amazement at the beauty of what nature produces. I love working with uncut rough crystals, minerals, fossils, seeds, shells and feathers. I try to keep these designs very simple on the principle that you can’t beat nature – don’t even try! A lot of the pieces, we have are ‘curated’ but not designed by me and are pieces from traditional tribal cultures. Considering you weren’t born into this industry, how did you learn so much about it? I think that the more I have travelled and explored, the more I have realised that I know very little, and that these trips are a constant process of discovery and inspiration. The places I visit most regularly besides India are Thailand, West and East Africa, Bali and China, where I work with craftsmen and workshops. I also work with a family of fifth-generation jewellers in Afghanistan who produce the most wonderful and beautifully crafted jewellery. With tribal craft, I think that the more you are exposed to, the more you understand the difference between 29

‘I also love working with ancient beads, probably because I know they are ancient and that, for me, gives them a certain magic.’ pieces made traditionally for their own ceremonies and pieces made for the market. It seems to me that there is a lack of conviction in the latter, although it is a very difficult thing to quantify. I think what you learn, over time, is to trust your own instincts, do what you feel is right and hope that somebody else likes it. So you don’t really follow fashion trends? No, I don’t follow trends at all. Although, as I said, the ‘tribal’ look is currently in with many of the designers and editors. These trends tend to be cyclical so I’m sure that the fashion world will soon move on somewhere else without me. Your jewellery has been used by a lot of musicians in their videos and performances... Yes we have worked with many different bands and artists, most recently with Beyoncé, Florence + the Machine, Bat for Lashes, Natasha Bedingfield, Sarah Brightman, Paloma Faith, Little Mix and The Rolling Stones. And not to forget your designs for films and TV! I think the first film we ever worked on was one of the early Star Wars movies. Other films include Surviving Picasso, The Ghost and The Darkness, Harry Potter, Troy and Entrapment. Most recently we have been involved with the HBO TV blockbuster Game of Thrones and the sequel to The Marigold Hotel, which they have just shot in India, starring Maggie Smith and Judi Dench. 30

What’s so significant about the beads that you work with? I don’t think there is anything particularly significant. I choose them for their colour and shape, and tend to favour larger and uncut stones and crystals. I also love working with ancient beads, probably because I know they are ancient and that, for me, gives them a certain magic. Many of our clients do share this love of ancient beads. But I don’t think the fashion world cares, one way or the other, how old or new the beads are. The key thing is what they look like. What about birthstones? Everyone talks about them but what do they actually signify? I am not entirely sure. I’ve never really looked into it and don’t know who decided that a particular stone or crystal related to a date of birth. I rather suspect it is a clever marketing tool, but who knows? Do you believe in the healing powers of certain crystals? Yes I do. I have worked for many years with crystal healers, supplying them with crystals for their work. What is certain, and can be measured scientifically, is that all crystals send out waves of energy. Whether that energy is a healing energy is perhaps not clear, but I believe that it can be. One of the most powerful healing crystals is Labradorite, and it also happens to be one of my favourite stones. The wave of energy from a Labradorite crystal is one of the strongest.

Have you witnessed the healing power working on anyone? A few years ago, an Italian client of ours came over to buy some jewellery. She brought a friend who I could see was terribly upset about something. The poor lady broke down and told me that her eight-year-old son had been diagnosed with an inoperable brain tumour. That morning I had had a long conversation with a crystal healer who explained to me the amazing healing properties of Labradorite. Although I did not know this lady, and this was clearly the gravest matter of life and death, I gave the mother of this boy a Labradorite pendant for her son to wear or have by his bedside. Three weeks later this lady rang my doorbell with her eight-year-old son by her side. The tumour had shrunk and then disappeared and the medical profession said it was impossible. Since then I have been a believer. One up for Labradorite!

Why do you think so many fashion editors, stylists, and fashion designers are drawn to Pebble London? I’m flattered, of course, but I’m really not entirely sure. The range of our jewellery is pretty wide, and some of the editors and stylists who come over call it ‘one-stop shopping’. We do have some delicate pieces, but we tend to favour larger and bolder ‘statement’ pieces of jewellery which probably lends itself more to editorial photography. The fashion designers who choose our jewellery for their catwalk shows probably like it for the same reasons. You used to be in the music business. What would you say is the difference between creating a piece of music and creating a piece of jewellery? For me, surprisingly little. Obviously the techniques are entirely different but the creative process is probably the same and you follow, or should follow, your instincts about what works and what doesn’t – with a lot of fine tuning along the way. Why I’m drawn to a particular colour or shape and not to another, or why one sound or chord progression works for me and another doesn’t is a mystery. But I know that if I don’t follow that gut instinct when creating a piece then I always regret it later. Why someone else likes or doesn’t like the result is, I suppose, a question of whether we share the same tastes. I completely reject the idea of good or bad taste. In my view everyone’s taste is just as valid as anyone elses, it’s just their taste. Have you considered expanding the business? The business is in fact expanding, inasmuch as new markets are opening up for us in different parts of the world. We have had several offers from some of the big players in the international fashion world, who want to buy into the brand and open retail shops all over the place, but so far I have resisted. To accept would mean gearing up the production to far greater volumes and, while I’m sure the results would be a lot more profitable, it would change the nature of what Pebble London is. Many of our pieces are one-offs, and even when we do make multiples of a design, it is never in any great quantity. We like it that way. What then are your plans for the future? More travelling, more exploring and hopefully, more creating. It was great to meet you, and before you leave, don’t forget to choose a Labradorite pebble to take with you. It will give you loads of energy, keep you healthy and bring you joy. I certainly won’t forget. I’ll be back here for my wedding, whenever that’ll be… Absolutely! You’re most welcome.

Pheasant Feather Headdress 31

decorium Photographer: Hayley Louisa Brown Stylist: Savannah Baker Stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s assistant: Cassius Clay Hair: Liam Curran Make-up: Cassie Steward at LHA Represents using MAC Cosmetics Models: Austria at M&P Hilda at Premier Jay at Select Models Jerome at Select Models Karol at Next

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Karol wears: â&#x20AC;&#x2039;k nit ZKNITS, jacket Archival Vivienne Westwood, slippers Penelope Chilvers, socks PUM PUM SOCKS, headpiece Sumatra Traditional Ceremonial Headdress from Pebble LONDON

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Austria wears: scarf HermĂ&#x2C6;s, headpiece Bamileke Traditional Tribal Yellow Cap from Pebble LONDON

Jerome wears: shirt CÉline, collar tie HermÈs, gold bee pin Delfina Delettrez, headpiece Zaire Lega Tribal Cap from Pebble LONDON

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Hilda wears: knit Zknits, bra Agent Provocateur, headpiece Miao Pronged Crown from Pebble LONDON 36

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Karol wears: armpiece MOXHAM, lace Laura dols vintage shop Jay wears: headpiece Yoruba Ceremonial Cap from Pebble LONDON SUITCASE MAGAZINE

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Jay wears: n et top Shepherd’s bush market, bracelets Cartier, headscarf Hermes, headpiece Yoruba Traditional Tribal Headdress from Pebble LONDON

Karol wears: knit ZKNITS, headpiece Sumatra Traditional Ceremonial Headdress from Pebble LONDON

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South America

on a shoestring We took a look at Lonely Planet’s South American bucket list and picked a few of our favourites that are perfect for any budget. Word s f ro m Lon ely P l a n e t’ s S ou t h A m er i c a o n a s h o e str i n g

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Argentina Glaciar Perito Moreno

Quebrada de Humahuaca

As glaciers go, Perito Moreno is one of the most dynamic and accessible on the planet, but what makes it exceptional is its constant advance – up to 2m per day. Visitors can get very close to the action via a complex network of steel boardwalks. Its slow but constant motion creates an audiovisual sensation as building-sized icebergs calve from the face and crash into Lago Argentino. A typical way to cap off the day is with a huge steak dinner back in El Calafate.

You’re a long way from Buenos Aires up here in Argentina’s northwestern corner, and it feels a whole world away. This spectacular valley of scoured rock in Jujuy province impresses visually with its tortured formations and artist’s palette of mineral colours, but is also of great cultural interest. The Quebrada’s settlements are traditional and indigenous in character. Typical Andean dishes supplant steaks on the restaurant menus and llamas, not herds of cattle, graze the sparse highland grass.

Iguazú Falls

The peaceful Iguazú river, flowing through the jungle between Argentina and Brazil, plunges suddenly over a basalt cliff in a spectacular display of sound and fury that is one of the planet’s most awe-inspiring sights. The Iguazú Falls are a primal experience for the senses: the roar, the spray and the sheer volume of water live forever in the memory. But it’s not just the waterfalls; the jungley national parks that contain them offer a romantic backdrop and fine wildlife-watching opportunities.

Iguazú Falls 41

Carnaval in Montevideo

Uruguay Carnaval in Montevideo

Colonia del Sacramento

Montevideo is a favourite for many travellers. It is small enough to walk around, but big enough to have some great architecture and happening nightlife.

Take a step back in time as you explore the winding cobbled streets and fascinating history of Uruguay’s former smugglers’ haven. Then check out the great bar and restaurant scene and the gorgeous position on a peninsula of the Río de la Plata. All this, and its super-accessible location just a short hop away from both Montevideo and Buenos Aires, makes Colonia a classic tourist destination. But even on weekends it’s worth dodging the crowds and letting yourself get seduced by the town’s eternal charms.

The young montevideanos (people from Montevideo) who don’t escape across the water to Buenos Aires have a real pride in their city, and the arts and artisan scene is particularly strong. Many of the grand 19th-century neoclassical buildings, legacies of the beef boom, are in various stages of crumbling, although vestiges of Montevideo’s colonial past still exist in the Ciudad Vieja (Old Town), the picturesque historic centre. Carnaval takes place on the Monday and Tuesday before Ash Wednesday. Highlights include candombe dance troupes beating out African-influenced rhythms on large drums. 42

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Brazil Pão de Açúcar, Rio de Janeiro

Ilha Grande

Some say to come around sunset for the best views from that absurd confection of a mountain but in truth, it doesn’t matter when you come; you’re unlikely to look at Rio (or your own comparatively lacklustre city) in the same way. From here the landscape is pure undulating green hills and golden beaches lapped by blue sea, with rows of skyscrapers sprouting along the shore. The ride up is good fun: all-glass aerial trams that whisk you up to the top. The adventurous can rock climb their way to the summit.

Thanks to its isolation, Ilha Grande served for decades as a prison and lepers’ colony. Spared from development by this unusual history, its jungle-clad slopes and dozens of beaches are some of the best preserved in all of Brazil. Days are spent hiking through lush Atlantic rainforest, snorkelling amid aquamarine seas and basking in crisp waterfalls. With no motor vehicles to spoil the party, this is one clean, green island – a true nature lover’s paradise. It’s also an easy day’s journey from Rio.

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LET THE GAMES BEGIN

All you need to know about the World Cup

Words by Mo nica Leung

Winning odds Right now Brazil, the host country, is the favourite to win. They could be the first host team to take the World Cup title since France triumphed on home soil in 1998. This is the second time the World Cup is being held in Brazil. They also played host back in 1950, where a draw against Uruguay would have made them the champions – so it could be time for the team to amend that record. Germany is a strong contender having been placed no lower than third in the last three World Cups. With 14 World Cup goals, their player Miroslav Klose comes a close second to Brazil’s Ronaldo – who currently holds the tournament’s title of top scorer with a total of 15 goals. Spain also has great odds of repeating their 2010 championshipwinning performance. They’d be the first country to retain the World Cup since 1962 – as well as the first European team to win the tournament in a South American country. Argentina has failed to reach the final since 1990, but they pose a threat to Brazil as the other powerhouse South American team – which could give them the edge over the European countries. Superstar Lionel Messi is expected to lead them past a comparatively weak Group F. 44

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Talking Points High costs The 2014 World Cup is more expensive than the two previous World Cups put together. The cost of the stadiums, security and transport has sparked a wave of protests across the country.

World-class prisons The Manaus stadium may turn into a prison after the tournament, a plan that is currently being discussed by the Brazilian government.

Incomplete stadiums São Paulo stadium – the venue of the very first match – won’t be ready on time. Only half of the seats will have been completed by the test match in mid-May.

Long Journeys The Belgium team, covering 724km, have the shortest distances between their group games. But the US team will have to do 1426km worth of travelling.

Official match ball The Adidas ‘Brazuca’ was named by the people of Brazil. The slang term Brazuca refers to the pride that Brazilians take in their country’s lifestyle.

No to slogans Jérôme Valcke, the secretary general of FIFA, has banned the use of slogans and images on players’ undergarments for the duration of the World Cup.

Get into the spirit The official slogan seen everywhere is ‘juntos num só ritmo’ or ‘all in one rhythm’. The Brazilian percussion instrument, caxirola, will be heard everywhere as the official noisemaker.

Unusual mascot The official mascot ‘Fuleco’ is a 14-year-old Brazilian armadillo who can curl into a football. Proud of his country, the blue of his shell represents the sky and clear waters of Brazil.

Revolutionary kick-off The first kick will be made by a paraplegic teen in a mindcontrolled exoskeleton suit who, away from his wheelchair, will be able to feel his foot touch the ball thanks to the suit’s sensory feedback. This could be a new revelation for wheelchair users.

Robot security The tournament will be protected by American iRobots and Israeli drones. The unmanned drones and robots will monitor the crowds, detect suspicious objects and explore dangerous environments.

Costly players The most expensive player to play in the World Cup is Lionel Messi with an estimated market value of £114 million.

Costly teams The most expensive participating team is Brazil with a market value of around £418 million.

Losing teams Honduras is the only participating team to have never won a World Cup match. Wild fans Brazilian torcidas have been named some of the most dangerous fans in the world. Stadium capacity At the moment, the smallest of the stadiums is Arena da Baixada in Curitiba which holds around 28,000 people. Rio’s Maracanã stadium can seat up to 77,000 people.

Fair goals Goal-line technology will be used for the very first time in a World Cup tournament. Firsts This is the first time that Bosnia and Herzegovina has qualified for the World Cup. Official soundtrack The 2014 World Cup song ‘We Are One’ is performed by JLo, Pitbull and Brazilian singer Cláudia Leitte – all Latin artists. It’s the third time the World Cup song has been performed by Latin artists – following Ricky Martin’s 1998 song ‘La Copa De La Vida’ and Shakira’s ‘Waka Waka’ at the 2010 tournament.

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Estádio do Maracanã Photographer: Eudes de Santana Stylist: Ginger Clark Hair and make-up: Sabrina Samn Models: Cassia Rodrigues and Maira Moura at Mega Models Photographer’s assistant: Cassia Campos Production: Arara inc.

S U I T CLinda ASE M A G A Z IxN Erdem E 47 Maira wears: dress Charlie May, sunglasses Farrow

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This Page Cassia Wears: mesh top Bill + Mar, jacket Petit Bateau, shorts Vivetta, cap American Apparel Opposite PAge Maira Wears: body American Apparel, shorts Ashish, trainers Saucony

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This Page Maira Wears: dress Charlie May, sunglasses Linda Farrow x The Row Opposite PAge Cassia wears: top Helmut Lang, jacket Longchamp, shorts Current/Elliott

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Maira Wears: crop top Bjรถrn Borg, shorts Escada S UApparel, I T C A S E shorts M A G Bjรถrn A Z I N EBorg 53 Cassia Wears: crop top American

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This Page Cassia Wears: crop top American Apparel, shorts Bjรถrn Borg, trainers Saucony Opposite Page MAira Wears: dress Charlie May, trainers K-Swiss, sunglasses Linda Farrow x Erdem

Great Escapes

rancoso Sea, Sand and Stars:

Words by Serena Guen Photos by Tona Stell

Trancoso Brazil

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‘If you are nervoso, come to Trancoso’, is a common saying amongst locals in Trancoso; a place where all your worries disappear as soon as you touch down. It is a little world of rustic luxury hidden away in a jungle by the sea. In the day, people conceal themselves in the privacy of the various boutique hotels along the shoreline or lie on the white sands of the isolated beach. It’s the kind of enchanting place where you could be taking a walk along the water and see horses or even a rainbow. At night, everyone gathers in the twinkling centre of town, the Quadrado, to shop, eat and drink at one of the many tiny restaurants. There is a magic about the place that you’d have to visit to understand – a magic that explains why so many people go and just never come back…

EtnIa Clube de Mar

VIP Villa - Villas de Trancoso

Uxua Casa Hotel

To Stay Uxua Casa Hotel

Etnia Clube de Mar

Opened by the ex-Creative Director of Diesel, Wilbert Das, Uxua is a brightly coloured eco-resort situated right in the Quadrado – a seven-minute walk away from the beach. The hotel’s attention to detail is impressive, and every aspect of the place is stunning, from the aquamarine pool to the beautiful garden and the flowers that hang over the walls of the individual casas. Rooms from £292 per night

If you like to eat well, stay at Etnia Clube de Mar. An exquisite gem of a hotel, it only offers five villas and its beach area is fairly small. But the beach is big enough to accommodate the guests, and the spot is highly coveted by the people living in the nearby villas, such as the owner of L’Occitane. The hotel is a particular hotspot for the Italian fashion crowd, including the Missonis, over New Years. And best of all, the chef at the Foot in the Sand restaurant will prepare a custom-made spread fit for a king, taking into account any dietary requirements. Although there is a lunch menu, it is often best to ask the charming Pedro to recommend something. Rooms from £144 per night

Villas de Trancoso

A safe option, especially for families, where each guest can book his or her own hut. There is a decent-size pool with a bar, a lounge area near the beach practically made for sunset cocktails and an outdoor gym. But perhaps the best part is the daily visits by the little monkeys which, if you’re lucky, the staff will let you feed. Double Rooms from £262 per night

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To Eat

To Do

Capim Santo

Watersports – Paddleboard or surf to burn off all the delicious food that you have eaten.

One of the most traditional and well-known restaurants in Trancoso, its fish dishes are excellent and the cocktails are reasonably priced. Sylvinha’s Restaurant

Take a day to visit Espelho beach and eat at this family-run establishment right on the sand. Sylvinha cooks dishes inspired by Bahian, Indian and South-East Asian cuisines. It is worth knowing that the restaurant is only open for lunch and there is no menu.

Take a boat to visit another beach such as Caraíva, a trip that

only takes around 40 minutes. Make sure you stop at Boteco do Pará to drink beer and eat pastel, which is a type of pie full of meat or shrimp. Shop in the Quadrado at night – they have a fantastic array of

boutiques and galleries. Play golf at Terravista Golf Club.

Los Negros

A charming restaurant headed up by Argentine chef Francis Mallmann that specialises in homemade pastas and is great for bigger groups. El Gordo

The all-white restaurant, next to a luminous blue pool, is remiscent of several chic beach resorts – but its views of the clifftops set it apart from the rest. Order the octopus rice and try at least one of their many varieties of cachaças. O Cacau

Right next to the little church at the end of the Quadrado, O Cacau serves up some of the best fish and traditional Brazilian food in town.

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Relax – That’s what you came to Trancoso for, right?

LAte night Shopping

To Drink Monkey Bar

A badly kept secret, Monkey Bar boasts a lethal cocktail menu and is a lovely relaxed place to come for drinks, either before or after dinner. Any stand in the Quadrado

Dotted around the main square are tiny kiosk shacks that serve up whatever your heart desires.

How to Get There Fly to São Paulo or Salvador and connect to Porto Seguro. Trancoso is about an hour away by car.

Tips and tricks Time runs away from you in Trancoso and people eat late – breakfast at 11 or 12, lunch around 3 or 4pm and dinner at 10, with perhaps a few mojitos or caipirinhas in between. Bring a lot of cash with you as ATMs are a little hard to come by, although a lot of places do accept cards. Phone signal is pretty dodgy/ non-existent – bear this in mind when visiting more remote places or when you are trying to get home after dinner. 61

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Maravilhosa Rio de Janeiro

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Rio De Janeiro Brazil

Wo rd s by H u b er t Sa i n t O l i v e

Rio is magical. It is easy to marvel at the cidade maravilhosa, or fabulous city, which is full of urban contradictions â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 36km of beaches, a jungle in the middle of the city, favelas constructed next to wealthy neighbourhoods and its Samba and Bossa Nova music. This is a city which should not function but somehow just does. But the best thing about Rio is its inhabitants, also known as cariocas, and their passionate way of life. Cariocas are mostly early birds who you can catch in the morning jogging around the lagoon under a light blue sky between the parrots and perhaps a troop of monkeys. However be warned, their laid-back approach means that things may not get done quite as efficiently. Be friendly, be patient, be aware of small dangers and enjoy the paradisal landscapes. Tudo bem, you are in Rio.

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TO STAY Oasis Collections

Santa Teresa

Reap all the benefits of a boutique hotel but in the privacy of your own apartment. Each apartment is unique and located in prime spots throughout Rio. Guests are greeted with a welcome package upon arrival, including a guide to the area, and a continental breakfast arrives promptly every morning with the maid. Keep your eyes peeled for Oasis’ Clubhouse, which is opening in Autumn this year. South America’s answer to Soho House, it will also have a few rooms in which guests can stay. Apartments from £107 per night

This serene hotel sits on a hill in the heart of the bohemian neighbourhood of Santa Teresa. Its charming rooms and excellent food make it one of the best hotels in the city and one of the most romantic. At the bar, order a caipirinha do chefe. Rooms from £268 per night

SJ Villas

A charming villa and apartment rental company with excellent service (something that is hard to find in Rio!) Their property in Ipanema has a 60s/70s vibe. It is packed full of interesting art and fashion books and has a wall of windows overlooking the beach and the sea that is to die for. Two-bedroom apartments from £595 per night

Insólito Hotel

Escape Rio for the weekend and unwind in this boutique hotel on the most beautiful beach of the Rio region near Búzios. Relax in one of the five little swimming pools hidden between the rocks or enjoy the view of Ferradura bay from the wellness center. Rooms from £241 per night

Fasano

A compact and very slick boutique hotel on Ipanema beach designed by the one and only Philippe Starck. Even if you are not a guest of the hotel, try to befriend one so that you can enjoy the rooftop swimming pool which has one of the best views of Ipanema and Dois Irmãos. Then order a coconut. Rooms from £182.47 per night

Fasano Rooftop swimming Pool

SJ Villas

Oasis Collections’ Penthouse apartment

TO EAT Aprazível

Laguiole

No newcomer to guidebooks, Aprazível is one of the most unusual restaurants in Rio. A sprawling tree house set into the hillside in Santa Teresa, this is one of the few places in Rio with good service (something you’ll appreciate if you spend any time in the city.) Naturally, it also has a spectacular view of the city. Make sure you order the whole grilled palm heart. I can’t help but wonder what it would be like to have a party there...

Probably the best restaurant in town for lunch, Laguiole is situated in Flamengo – right below the MAM. It is open between 12pm and 6pm every day, ideal for a business lunch.

Confeitaria Colombo

Located in the city center, Confeitaria Colombo is an old-style bistro serving traditional Brazilian fare. It is always packed but well worth waiting to be seated in the stunning main room, which does not appear to have changed since Rio’s Belle Époque when it opened in 1894. Order the pastel de nata, the best Portuguese egg tart in town. This bistro has another venue in Copacabana called Café Colombo located in Fort Copacabana, which has an amazing view of Copacabana beach and Sugar Loaf. Espirito Santa

If you want a taste of Amazônia then go to this Northern Brazilian restaurant in the Santa Teresa district. Order the Piranha soup and one of their great cocktails and you will be ready to go samba dancing in Lapa district, which is just down the hill. Tip: Try to get a table on the deck at the rear of the restaurant.

Bar do Mineiro

At once touristy and extremely local, Bar do Mineiro is always a good time. It may not look like much but it is filled with history, as you can see by the photos lining the walls. The owner was a close friend of Basquiat and Warhol and as a result, the bar has always been a hangout for artists. Simple traditional food, order the minipastéis de feijão and the feijoadoa, potentially the best caipirinha in town. Zazá Bistrô

Eating at Zazá is like stepping back into the 60s – all peace and love. The fairly healthy menu has a global feel with a strong Asian influence and a few good vegetarian options, a rarity in Brazil. Book in advance and get a table outside. Alternatively, try sitting barefoot on the fake grass lawn upstairs. Good for big groups. T.T. Burger

Definitely the best burger in town. Don’t miss the delicious ketchup made from guava. Perfect if you have just come back from a surf session from Arpoador beach.

Yumê

Yumê means dream in Japanese. This rustic Japanese restaurant serves high-quality food including sashimi and the lychee saquerinha (a lychee caipirinha made with sake instead of cachaça.) Other good Japanese restaurants in Rio include the celebrity-studded Sushi Leblon or the more traditional Azumi (get a private room in the back.) Tip: Try to book a table under the retractable roof, where Madonna used to have dinner while dating the Brazilian model Jesus Luz. Café Lamas

An authentic and very low-key carioca restaurant, Lamas was a favourite of Osvaldo Aranha – one of the most respected figures in Brazilian history. In his honour the chefs created a special filet mignon dish which features garlic, rice and chips. Lamas is famous for its meats.

Confeitaria Colombo - Photo by Wagner Pinheiro 66

TO DO Corcovado trek from Parque Lage

Go to the beach

Have breakfast at Parque Lage at 9am and enjoy one of the most peaceful places in the city. Then wear your hat, lace up your shoes, charge your camera and begin the trek to Corcovado, which starts behind the palace. A policeman will give you a plan at the beginning of this 713m-high, 5km-long, two-hour trek. Difficulty: Medium/Hard. Tip: Once you reach the top you can buy a ticket to enter the area with the Christ. If you are tired, go back to the city by shuttle and go for lunch at Aprazível.

Posto nine is the best for young, beautiful people. Make sure you buy a coconut from one of the stands and maybe even try your hand at a game of volleyball or frescoball (paddleball).

Jogging around the lagoon

Far better than any gym, a 7.5km run with one of the prettiest views of the city. Packed with joggers and cyclist from 5am till midnight, the place is checked by the police and remains safe so you can wear your headphones without being afraid.

The Lagoon

Museu de Arte do Rio

A beautiful example of contemporary architecture. This is unlike any other museum that you have ever been to, as it focuses on interactivity. It has a fantastic array of different Brazilian artworks, including pictures by one of SUITCASE’s photographers Demian Jacob. Tip: You can also walk on the undulating roof. Birdseye View

Albeit a relatively expensive option, one of the best ways to see Rio is by helicopter. You can buy tickets and take off from Pão de Açucar.

Christ the Redeemer

Posto nine on Ipanema Beach 67

TO DRINK and Dance Palaphita Kitch

Begin the evening with some chilled drinks at Palaphita Lagoa, an outdoor tiki-style bar on the lagoon with a beautiful view of Dois Irm達os. Then cross the lagoon to its sister venue, Palaphita Gavea, where you will find people partying with the Christ in the background. Circo Voador

Well-known Brazilian and international singers often play in this dome-shaped space below the famous Lapa Arches. Finish the night at the samba bar Carioca da Gema. Fosfobox

Located in the heart of Copacabana district, this is one of the few underground clubs in Rio de Janeiro playing electronic and rock music. The Maze

If you want a local experience, go to this jazz bar located in a safe favela in the Catete district between Flamengo and Lapa. Built by the British ex-pat filmmaker Bob Nadkarni, it doubles as a bed and breakfast.

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TO Shop

HOW TO GET AROUND

Cris Barros

Cabs remain the safest way to travel around the city. The app EasyTaxi is useful if you do not want to wait for hours in the street looking for a cab. Avoid rush hour as you could be sitting in the car for a very long time.

This Paulista designer defines herself as a ‘mezzo carioca’ thanks to her Rio-born mother. With her beautiful collection, Cris is one of the icons to carry the ‘Made in Brazil’ label. Dona Coisa

Located in the Jardim Botânico district, Dona Coisa has a wonderful selection of Brazilian and international clothes, accessories, homeware and beauty products. Keep your eyes peeled for their one-of-a-kind pieces. Rua Visconde de Pirajá

From Osklen to Louis Vuitton, the main street of Ipanema offers you a wide range of Brazilian and international brands.

Parque Lage

WHAT TO PACK People in Rio are very low key – shorts and T-shirts are the norm – and of course very tiny bikinis. Pack a few floaty dresses for the evening and no jewellery unless it is very obviously inexpensive or costume e.g. it’s made from wood. Remember that it is always very hot, especially in summer.

Tips and Tricks Rio is not the safest of cities but you will be fine if you keep your wits about you. There are certain safer pockets, such as Ipanema and Leblon, where it is okay to walk around but always be very aware of your surroundings. Do not carry large amounts of cash or all your credit cards, and be careful about where you are using your camera and your phone. 69

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What to Pack

3 5

Rio de Janeiro

1. Frescobol Carioca Leblon Beach Bat £180, 2. Prism x Rachel Comey Horn Tortoise Sunglasses £265, 3. Malin + Goetz Vitamin B5 Hand Treatment £16, 4. Original & Mineral Know Knott Detangling Spray £19, 5. Incognito Insect Repellent £9.55, 6. Frescobol Carioca Striped Linen Towel £95, 7. See by Chloé Sandals £170, 8. Urbanears Zinken Forget-Me-Not Headphones £90 72

9. LF Markey Beach Dress £154, 10. Susanne Kaufmann Sun Cream Cell Protection £50, 11. Rodin Body Oil £71, 12. Fornasetti Sole di Capri Room Spray £85, 13. Lucy Folk Dip Cocktail Earrings £176, 14. Princesse Tam Tam Liv Bandeau Bra £43, 15. Princesse Tam Tam Liv Bikini Bottoms £35 73

The Girl From

ipanema Photographer: Hans Neumann Stylist: Kate Foley Hair and make-up: Alice Brown Model: Paolla Rahmeier at Mega Models Art Direction: Lizzie Ward Stylist’s assistant: Rhianna Jones Production: Arara Inc.

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Largo do Boticário S UIlincic, I T C A S shoes E M Astylist’s G A Z I N E own 75 top Chadwick BELL, skirt Roksanda

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Market on Rua Maria EugĂŞnia top Suno, skirt Suno, shoes DR. Martens, turban Jennifer Behr, belt Chadwick bell

Praรงa Sarah Kubitschek dress Derek Lam, headdress Jennifer Behr, necklace Suno

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Coconut stand on Ipanema Beach sweater Tommy Hilfiger, bikini from beach stall

Corner of Rua Sá Ferreira and Rua Raul Pompéia top Tanya Taylor, skirt Roksanda ILINCIC, shoes Stylist’s own, earrings Dannijo

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Morro do Contagalo â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the entrance to two favelas, Cantagalo and PavĂŁozinho dress Creatures of the Wind, shoes Isabel Marant

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Market on Rua Maria EugĂŞnia dress Derek Lam, belt Derek Lam, necklace Suno

Corner of Rua Francisco Otaviano and Rua Raul PompĂŠia top Roksanda Ilincic, skirt Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, shoes Isabel Marant, turban Jennifer S U I TBehr, C A S Eearrings M A G ALizzie ZINE Fortunato, bracelets Lizzie Fortunato

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Escadaria Saint Roman, Cantagalo top Fendi, skirt Suno, shoes Tibi, sunglasses Fendi

Boardwalk of Copacabana Beach dress Chadwick Bell, necklace Jennifer Fisher

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Beauty in the Beast

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S達o Paulo SUITCASE MAGAZINE

São Paulo Brazil

Wo rd s by C at her i n e B a l sto n

It’s only from the giddy heights of the tallest São Paulo rooftops that you can begin to comprehend what a metropolis of 20 million people looks like. The concrete sprawl goes high and wide to the horizon and beyond. Down at street level, in the dense urban jungle, modernist icons rub shoulders with historic buildings. Blink and another new tower block goes up. People, cars, buses and motorbikes hustle for space. It’s busy and lively, and the longer you spend here, the more you’ll understand why it deserves to be called Brazil’s cultural and culinary capital.

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Hotel Unique

TO STAY Hotel Fasano

Apartment on Rua Oscar Freire

Exposed brick, huge rooms and leather furnishings all come together in timeless style at the Fasano, designed by the heavyweight architects Márcio Kogan and Isay Weinfeld. The bar at the hotel’s award-winning Italian restaurant has the best whisky collection in town. Rooms from £486 per night

Right in the heart of the city’s design avenue, Rua Oscar Freire, this private, one-bed apartment is open-plan luxury, all mirrors, marble and modcons. Pop down the road to the corner café Santo Grão for eggs benedict and freshly roasted coffee, or over the road for the city’s best brunch at the Hotel Emiliano. Book via brazilianbeachhouse.com From £154 per night

Hotel Unique

Function is sacrificed just a touch for the sake of form at this design hotel – the giant watermelon shape means that some rooms lose floor space to the hotel’s curves. But who cares? You’ll be spending most of your time lounging by the rooftop pool, looking out over the city, or sipping apple martinis at the rooftop bar, Skye. Rooms from £345 per night

We Hostel Design

This, the city’s first design hostel, is set in a whitewashed mansion just a ten minute walk from São Paulo’s answer to Central Park – Parque do Ibirapuera. The rooms – dorms as well as private rooms – are simple and sparse, while communal spaces combine vintage with sleek and contemporary, all pulled together masterfully by the architect-owner. From £12 per night

Hotel Emiliano

Going big on design details and customer service, the Hotel Emiliano is an elegant option and perhaps the best business hotel in upmarket Jardins. For the five-star treatment, arrive by helicopter and check in to the Suíte Cubo – a penthouse apartment complete with indoor pool, office, dining area and bedroom all encased within a glass cube. The newly refurbished spa is one of São Paulo’s best. Rooms from £296 per night

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TO EAT Dalva e Dito

Lola Parilla

For a taste of the very best and most bizarre Brazilian food, look no further than top chef Alex Atala’s restaurants. D.O.M. needs to be booked weeks in advance, but Dalva e Dito is a more laidback and affordable affair that lets you loose in the kitchen on Saturday nights between midnight and 3am, where you can pile your plate with galinhada (chicken and rice) to the sounds of live samba.

Fogo de Chão, Barbacoa, Rubaiyat and Rodeio are just a few of the city’s top white-tablecloth spots that extol the pleasures of Brazilian beef. Mixing things up a bit, the new Lola Parilla is more friendly, less formal and lets you decide which country does the best steak – more than twenty cuts are sourced from seven countries, and all grilled to perfection.

Enoteca Saint vinSaint

Juicy burgers and the best bloody marys in town (done six different ways, including with crispy bacon slices) are a big hit at this hipster hangout. Once you’ve tried all six, you may feel inclined to hammer out some Herbie Hancock on the restaurant’s piano. And then beat a hasty retreat downstairs to the retro basement bar, eStônia.

Ramona

Candlelit and cosy, this ultra-charming bistro has just 12 tables and an impressive menu of South American organic and biodynamic wines. Live jazz on Thursdays and Fridays adds to the ambience. Museo Veronica

Simplicity and sophistication, a mix that the Spanish do so well, is here in spades at this newly opened restaurant. Scarlet walls, mirrors and young Spanish waiters with husky voices give a good first impression, but it’s the affordable Spanish wines and the food – crunchy croquetas, soft tortilla slices and the like – that you’ll remember. Nagayama

Sublime sashimi and sushi are always a given at this longstanding Itaim favourite. Popularity has pushed them sideways – to Nagayama’s left is the younger, noisier Nagayama Café, while to the right, Naga is a more hushed, low-lit setting. There are also Nagayamas in Jardins and in Rio de Janeiro.

Mimo

Slinky, white and minimalist, Mimo might be little more than one year old, but it’s brimming with confidence. The menu is a gamble, containing precious little description of the dishes. But the surprise is always a good one, with molecular techniques adding playful touches to well-balanced, seasonal flavours. Maní

You’ll need to plan ahead if you want to experience the artful Brazilian food in a laid-back setting that has made Maní such a hit. The artichoke ravioli and manioc crispbread are any glutenfree diners’ dream and chef Helena Rizzo won the 2014 title of ‘Best Female Chef in the World’ at the World’s 50 Best Restaurant Awards, so you can bet the waiting list just got a lot longer.

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Cafés Deliqatê

Home-cured bacon, freshly made pancakes, eggs with gravlax, homemade yoghurt – set aside enough time to try it all for brunch at this industrial-looking newcomer. Work it off afterwards with a walk through the dense and delightfully shady Parque Trianon, just one block away.

Coffee Lab

Tin-mug lampshades and staff in overalls are the first sign that they take a quirky and downright nerdy approach to coffee at this Vila Madalena café. Not only do they roast their own beans, but they also let you choose where your bean comes from (sourced from the best Brazilian growers) and which technique to prepare it with. Like what you tried? Take a bag of coffee home with you to recreate the experience.

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TO DO

TO DRINK and Dance

Pivô and the Copan

Drosophyla

One of downtown’s most iconic buildings, the Copan was designed by Oscar Niemeyer and is a mini-city of apartments shops, salons, restaurants and bars. Get in underneath its curved façade for a nose around the ground floor and a sneak peek at the comings and goings of the Copan residents. Stop for an espresso at Café Floresta, lunch at Bar da Dona Onça or a poke around the exciting art space, Pivô, that gets right inside the bowels of the building.

Popular with a slightly older, boho crowd, this hidden bar is kitted out in a style they call ‘contemporary baroque’ and I call kooky chaos with added cats (and watch you don’t sit on one.) Head straight through to the delightful back garden and order a tangerine caipirinha with red peppercorns.

Street art in Vila Madalena

Despite being firmly on the tourist trail, the open-air art gallery that is the ‘Beco do Batman’ (‘Batman’s Alley’) in Vila Madalena is a must. A changing roster of artists spray and paint the walls in this narrow network of roads, making no two visits the same. Start at Rua Medeiros de Albuquerque and drop in at urban art gallery Choque Cultural and the art space-cum-bike store Tag and Juice if you have time. Museu da Imagem e do Som (MIS)

If there’s any institution in São Paulo shaking off the stuffy, dusty connotations that come with the word ‘museum’, it’s the Museum of Image and Sound. Revamped in 2008, it just gets cooler, hosting film and video art festivals, photography workshops, major exhibitions (Stanley Kubrick and David Bowie were the most recent subjects) and gigs, not to mention the monthly Saturday afternoon Green Sunset parties, with DJs and dancing outside the museum.

B.Bar

Join the fashion and media crowd at this secret nightspot, from the same well-connected couple that run the eclectic and ultra-modern B.Luxo vintage store just two blocks away. Look for the ‘Rivas Cabeleireira’ sign, and head up to the second floor for classic cocktails, vegetarian food and live jazz and folk. Chez Oscar

The latest nightspot by the Franco-Brazilian team behind fashion label Surface to Air and chic nightclub Bar Secreto, Chez Oscar is set in a modular building made out of glass and steel that’s as striking as its clientele. Have dinner out in the alfresco eating area on the first floor or head on up to the bars on the fourth and fifth floors for purely liquid gratification. Casa 92

You’re as likely to hear French, Spanish and English as you are Portuguese at this quirky, flirty nightclub in a converted house. With DJs in the living room, the yard, the outhouse and in the VIP house next door, keep cruising till you find your favourite tunes.

Walk on the minhocão

Join skaters, joggers, cyclists and the occasional roving revellers for a walk along the Minhoção (big worm) – a viaduct that connects Barra Funda and Centro, and is closed to traffic from 9pm and all day Sunday. You’ll pass grand old art deco buildings and run-down housing, as well as getting a rare glimpse inside people’s front rooms.

Batman’s Alley 92

Chez Oscar - Photo by Daniel Mitsuo

HOW TO GET AROUND Riviera

Team Brazil’s best chef with São Paulo’s most prolific club owner, and a veteran bar dating back to the 40s and you get Riviera – which was resurrected earlier this year after a major revamp by star architect Marcio Kogan. Arrive early if you want to bag a spot at the winding, downstairs bar or go upstairs, where jazz bands take to the stage Wednesday through Saturday. D-Edge

The world-class DJs, state-of-the-art sound system and beatsynced lighting pack out the dance floors at D-Edge from the small hours of the morning until well beyond sunrise. You don’t need to be up for dancing to electronica for seven hours straight; the rooftop terrace is a great space to chill out, chat and admire the view.

Getting around is hard work, one of the city’s major issues is the traffic, which is like something out of your worst nightmares. You need to be careful where you are going as it is not a city for ‘wandering’. When you can opt for the metro – which is clean and efficient but only covers a third of the city. Taxis are also a good option if taken outside of rush hour (between 8am-10am and 5pm-8pm.) You can often hail one or else order them from the handy app 99taxis.

Tips and Tricks Paulistanos will dive straight in for a kiss and a little hug when you first meet them. In Rio, however, they go for two kisses. São Paulo must be the only place in the world where taxi drivers round the fare down, rather than up.

Paribar

A bohemian hangout in the leafy Dom José Gaspar square in Centro, Paribar packs out on Sunday afternoons. It has live jazz (11am-2pm) and a somewhat dubious brunch, as well as monthly Sunday Selvagem parties, when DJs set up on the bar’s balcony and partygoers take over the square.

It’s not rude to answer your mobile phone. In any situation. Really. Editor’s tips Radio station 101.7 is pretty damn good. Do not walk around at night. Visit São Paulo’s first skyscraper, the Martinelli Building, to

get one of the best views of the city. They offer free impromptu tours every 15 minutes on weekdays.

B.Bar

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Design Fables from São Paulo:

Guto Requena ‘We shape memories through the experimental use of digital technologies. Good design should tell a good story. Design must invite us to reflect about the time and the world we live in. Design must solve problems. Anyone can be a designer. Who is the author? Cyberculture redefined our daily lives forever.’

I n tro d u c tio n by S e r e n a G u e n Wo rd s by G u to R e q u e n a

t just 34, Guto Requena, is one of the most well-respected architects in Brazil, and one of the most interesting people that I’ve ever met. If you take a look at Guto’s CV, he has done everything from design a Google HQ and a Walmart to conceptualise, write and host his own TV programmes for Brazil’s biggest network, Globo.

Bouncing from project to project, Guto’s fluid lifestyle reflects his constant endeavour to redefine art and design in a way that fits into our everyday life. Two of his projects, the Nóize Chair and the Era uma Vez, or Once Upon a Time Collection, used innovative techniques and technologies to capture and physicalise sound. To create the Nóize Chair, Guto made a digital replica of Lino Bo Bardi’s iconic chair and distorted it with short sound bites from Santa Ifigênia Street in Downtown São Paulo. He then sent the finished file to a 3D printer in Belgium who printed out the physical model. Guto also created a Nóize Live experience at art fair SPDW 2013, where visitors could speak into a microphone and then have their design printed out in a plastic miniature chair right before their eyes. It was naturally a huge success: ‘There were some kids who went to the first day, second day, every day. The first thing in the morning at the breakfast

Once Upon a Time - Photo by Marcos Cimardi 94

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Serena and Guto

they’d ask, “Please, please bring me to the exhibition!” They had a fascination with digital printing and the microphone. And of course, the only thing we can do to make our country better is education so it’s talking to and teaching the kids.’

Again, it’s about the process...so my mum can look at this and think this is horrible, but once she understands the process and what I was trying to say with this piece she automatically says “Oh, it’s beautiful and interesting!”’

The Once Upon a Time Collection is made up of four glass vases created from the fables that Guto’s grandmother told him as a child. Guto fittingly tells his students that ‘more of these designers are storytellers – the best design to me is one that tells a beautiful story, and second is the result of a process. So I don’t care about the beauty, I think beauty is not something important.

Essentially, Guto is on a quest not only to change Brazil’s visual landscape but also its educational one. His goal is to enable and empower people to appreciate art and design, and make it relevant and important to everyone, because, quite simply, there is no point creating something amazing if no one can understand it.

Guto’s architecture guide 1. SESC Pompéia.

4. Minhocão on Sundays

Ex-factory complex SESC Pompéia was converted by architect Lina Bo Bardi and was inaugurated in 1982. It offers a wide variety of services, including an 800-seat theatre, a restaurant, a library, seven art workshops, a swimming pool, several gyms, a dentist and a cafeteria. The focus of the center is mainly on Brazilian culture, with the objective of spreading it through alliances. SESC also has a policy of keeping records of its activities, in order to keep a ‘memory’ of Brazilian culture.

The big worm is one of the most unsightly pieces of architecture in São Paulo. There have been calls to transform this elevated road into a beautiful public park. It is closed to cars on Sundays, so this is a good time to visit and jog, bike or simply walk around to take in the incredible view of the city.

2. MASP – Museu de Arte de São Paulo

At the heart of Paulista Avenue is another structure designed by Lina Bo Bardi, which was built in 1968 out of concrete and glass. Its main body is supported by two lateral beams over a 74-metre freestanding space. It is considered a landmark of the city and a symbol of modern Brazilian architecture.

5. Fidalga Building at Vila Madalena

Walking around Vila Madalena is one of the only ways to see some some good contemporary architecture in São Paulo. Unfortunately, most of the buildings are private residences and offices but the visit will definitely be worth it as Vila Madalena is also well known for its bars, clubs, art galleries and bohemian atmosphere. Take note of the Fidalga Building designed by Triptyque Architects.

3. Edificio Bretagne

A residential building from 1959 by architect João Artacho Jurado that is an example of a different kind of Brazilian modernism: colourful and very ornamented. Supposedly the first condominium with a swimming pool in town.

MASP - Photo by Rodrigo Soldon

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Shop São Paulo Wo rd s by G a bri el l a Pas c h oa l

Undoubtedly one of the most influential fashion centres of the Southern hemisphere, with a plethora of dynamic creators, São Paulo has over the years consolidated itself as a city where luxury brands wish to establish their name. Inspiration can be found in the city’s modernist architecture as well as the beautiful nature surrounding it. São Paulo is one of the world’s prime shopping destinations.

Egrey

Stores to visit Alexandre Herchcovitch

Egrey

One of the few Brazilian designers to present at New York Fashion Week, Herchcovitch’s much-deserved success comes from years of challenging Brazilian fashion and capturing a loyal gathering of followers. His avant-garde aesthetic combined with irreverent prints have their own space in a store designed by architect studio Arkitito, who have managed to capture the designer’s essence.

Eduardo Toldi’s store in the chic Jardins neighborhood is probably one of the most interesting sights around. The shop is a minimalist white-cubed space which he himself regards as a ‘lab store’. Immersed in knitwear since he was a child, Toldi’s designs are made for the urban woman with impeccable aesthetic taste.

Cris Barros

Internationally renowned as one of the brands that best captures the Brazilian essence, Oskar Metsavaht’s Osklen has been around for a while, and its continuous success has proved that urban beachwear can go hand-in-hand with the Brazilian lifestyle. His latest collection, which was a creative collaboration with Bianca Brandolini and Alexia Niedzielski, was a success – and goes to show that Brazilian fashion can transcend its borders.

Osklen

Since starting to design over ten years ago, Cris Barros has created some of the Brazilian elite’s most sought-after pieces. The designs are fluid without losing sight of creating the perfect fit, which leaves her customers constantly wanting more. Her store in front of the luxurious Hotel Fasano is a testament to her success. Designed with Carolina Maluhy’s modernist touch, it is a place to sit and relax while you shop.

Paula Raia Silvia Furmanovich

Elegant Silvia Furmanovich makes women lose their minds every time she presents the public with one of her latest pieces. Her exquisite taste has gained her entry at Bergdorf Goodman, but it is her São Paulo store that does justice to the state-of-theart designs she creates. Her work does not go by unnoticed, and can make any wearer into the centre of attention at a party. 98

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Set inside architect Isay Weinfeld’s old office, Paula Raia’s store is discreet as it is soothing. Her well-constructed designs are a statement for well-to-do women in São Paulo. Her latest collection is said to have brought tears to its spectators, where she managed to combine her creative touch with a reverence for nature that seemed idyllic when presenting her collection.

Designers to watch out for Flavia Madeira

Flavia Madeira’s love for metals juxtaposed with her romantic nature results in the creation of jewellery which is intriguingly appealing. There is also a strong element of surrealism in her designs, which allow the most trivial objects of daily life to be transformed into decorative and at times political pieces. Fernando Jorge

One of the most talked about Brazilian jewellers, Fernando Jorge’s work possesses what he calls an ‘organic sensuality and a natural feeling of movement’. His pieces reflect the cultural and geological richness of Brazil. Lane Marinho

A true artist at heart, Lane Marinho’s shoe line is illustrative of her creative genius and her love for her country. Personally hand-crafted by the designer, each shoe takes over 48 hours to be made with corals, shells, and cords. You have to wait in line in order to get yourself a pair – but the wait will definitely be worth your while. Pedro Lourenço

Long regarded as one of the most promising designers of his generation, Pedro Lourenço is 22 years old and has already achieved worldwide success – he presented his collection in Paris when he was only 19 years old. He has attracted attention with his clean, architectural style and has a promising career ahead of him. Rodrigo Massot

Lane Marinho

Rodrigo Massot

Being the son of an ambassador has given Rodrigo Massot cultural baggage, which he vividly presents in all of his collections. Fascinated by the art of the ancient world, Massot’s work is rich in color and alludes to the decorative jewelry of a mystical goddess.

Flavia Madeira

Fernando Jorge

What to Pack

São Paulo

1. & Other Stories Sun Hat £19, 2. Nikon F65 SLR Camera Avg. £60, 3. Paperways Sky Blue Mini Notebook £2.50, 4. Pyrrha Fearless Necklace £120, 5. Yolke Jockey Silk Trousers £185 100

6. Jil Sander Fold-Over Flat Tote £590, 7. L:A Bruket No.101 Face Cream £25, 8. L:a Bruket No.89 Deodorant Spray £16, 9. This Works Skin Deep Golden Elixir £45, 10. Tom Ford Lip Shimmer £36, 11. Ancient Greek Sandals Thais Black Pony £145, 12. Linda Farrow Sunglasses £382, 13. A-Line Draped Back Shirt £169 101

Botanicals Tijuca Rainforest

Photographer: Damien Jacob Stylist: Ginger Clark Hair and make-up: Mary Saveedra Model: Luiza Frujuelli at 40 Models Production: Arara inc.

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top Emma Cook

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top Osman, shorts Suno

bandeau top Osman, trousers Paul & Joe

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sweater dress Holly Fulton

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sleeveless dress Mother of Pearl

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top Toga, skirt Osman, earrings Persy

t-shirt Holly Fulton, skirt Suno, shoes Pedro GarcĂa

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dress SToga, 112 U I T Chat A S Noel E M A Stewart G A Z I N E Millinery for Holly Fulton

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Crowned River Asunción Paraguay

Palacio de los López - Photo by Arkadiusz Janicki

Words an d p h otos by In d i a D ow l ey

ntil a few centuries ago, Paraguay was marked on maps as ‘Parrot Gay’, after early Jesuit settlers came across a parrot, decided he was homosexual, named him Frank and subsequently ate him. I have been living in the capital, Asunción, for three months, combining my love of travel with an anthropological interest in indigenous culture. Unfortunately I have yet to make any flamboyant feathery friends, but the South American charm of the city’s crumbling colonial buildings and laid-back lifestyle of its inhabitants more than makes up for it.

Having lost 80 per cent of its male population during the Triple Alliance War of 1864 (don’t worry ladies, population levels have now restabilised), landlocked Paraguay has struggled to keep up with neighbouring Brazil, Argentina and Bolivia in terms of tourism. However, the past few years have seen a cultural awakening in Asunción. Championed by the younger generation, a vibrant art movement has developed alongside a progressive music scene. Contemporary bars, restaurants, shops and hotels are popping up all over the city, drawing new businesses and travellers alike. Indeed, this undiscovered South American gem will not be so for long… Get there before everyone else does. 114

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AsunciÓn Paraguay

TO STAY

TO EAT

La Misión Hotel Boutique

Lido Bar

Located in upmarket Villa Mora, this is Asunción’s most luxurious hotel. Palm trees surround the sandy-coloured building, which is gently illuminated by night and offers spectacular views of the city from its roof terrace (complete with pool and spa.) Each room is individually decorated in cool whites, softened with traditional French furniture, beautifully upholstered armchairs and fresh flowers. The restaurant offers a superb international fusion menu and the service is excellent. A lesson in understated elegance. Rooms from £117 per night

This authentic Paraguayan diner is not to be missed. Grab a beer and pull up a stool at the packed bar, then settle in for a good stint of people watching. The quality of the food draws people from all walks of life; office workers, teenagers, families and travellers. Old, young, rich and poor. This is the place to sample the local cuisine; empanada, sopa paraguaya and milanesa, all lovingly cooked by bustling, hair-netted chefs. It’s always buzzing, with people spilling out onto the street at night and there’s a fantastic view of the Panteón Nacional de los Héroes.

Urbanian Hostel

This new gourmet restaurant has quickly become the hottest in AsunciÓn. The grill takes centre stage with beautifully cooked meat (the lamb is delicious) alongside interesting seafood such as catfish and ceviche. It’s traditional food with a modern twist, much like its rustic-cum-contemporary décor. Delicious drinks and it’s all surprisingly reasonable, but ring ahead to reserve a table.

El Mercadito

This boutique hostel has been featured in several design magazines for its Scandi-style decor. Industrial chic and minimalist, it’s all clean lines and muted colours. The scrubbed wooden bunk beds are purpose-built, allowing you to sit up on the bottom bunk draped in swathes of linen for privacy. There’s a lovely herb garden and excellent restaurant offering daily specials. This is how hostels should be. Beds from £9 per night Arthaus Boutique Hotel

Each room in this quirky hotel is decorated in the theme of an artist, from Kandinsky to Kahlo. It’s small, family-run and an oasis of calm amidst the bustle of the city. Relax on the pretty terrace amongst artisan objects, fluttering curtains and beautiful flowers. It has all the facilities (outdoor pool, sauna, etc.) of an upmarket hotel but remains wholly unpretentious; perfect for those after laid-back luxury. Rooms from £59 per night

Hacienda Las Palomas

You might be in Paraguay but this restaurant serves some of the best Mexican food I’ve ever eaten. Generous portions and enthusiastic staff, it’s brightly painted with paper flags and star-shaped lanterns adorning the dining area. It also serves excellent margaritas. El Café Literario

Tucked away on a downtown street you’ll find this quaint café slash bookshop. Drop in for a cappuccino; with books piled floor-to-ceiling, comfy chairs and softly glowing table lamps, you’ll probably end up staying all day.

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TO DO Get Lost in Mercado Cuatro

Stroll on the Costanera

A huge market selling nearly everything. I went when I first moved to the city and managed to furnish my entire apartment, buy enough food for a month and, best of all, kit myself out with a pair of flatforms (uneven pavements mean flatforms are de rigeur for any self-resecting Paraguayan woman.) Get lost amongst pumping stereos, giant pig lungs (yes, really), medicinal herbs and mountains of counterfeit trainers (some of which look suspiciously real.) Be sure to keep your possessions close, the street kids can be pretty sneaky.

This strip down by the Paraguay River used to be horribly polluted and a bit seedy, but the area has recently undergone huge redevelopment and now makes the perfect place for an early evening stroll. Take a couple of beers down to the beach and relax amongst dog walkers, pram pushers and fitness fanatics, all of whom come out to play as the sun goes down. The beach is lovely but don’t be fooled into taking a dip; the river isn’t quite clean enough for swimmers.

Salsa in Loma San Jerónimo

Frequented by the young due to Paraguay’s strict Catholic morals (Asunción is named after the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, after all), these motels range from the seedy to the stylish and have rooms to rent by the hour. Avoid the sleazy at all costs but the upmarket are borderline ridiculous in their extravagance and more like a spa experience. Crystal chandeliers, Venetian mirrors, flatscreen TV, your own bar, jacuzzi, sauna, solarium and even disco lights; they’re a fun(ny) place to chill out with mates. After all, you’re hopefully never going to be in the situation where you’re renting rooms by the hour again...

Lounge in a Love Motel

The oldest district in Asunción, this colourful little barrio is one of the city’s hidden gems. Go on Sunday when there’s a market selling arts and crafts, while street performers and salsa dancers give it a festival feel. Ask a local to point you in the direction of the mirador where you can pay 1000 guaraní (about 13p) to climb up to a viewpoint boasting fantastic views of the city.

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S U I T C A S E Costanera M A G A Z I N Beach E

TO SHOP

TO DRINK and DANCE

Casa Vera

Britannia Pub

Pop into this traditional shop and pick up a pair of authentic riding boots, as worn by the cowboys of Paraguay’s estancias. Made from the best quality leather, they’ll last forever and only look better with age. If boots aren’t your thing, I recommend a visit just to admire the handiwork of the beautifully crafted saddles and crops.

Britannia is a reliably good night. Noisy and packed, you’ll probably wait ten minutes to get served. But that, alongside the extensive selection of draught beer (unusual in Paraguay), is what makes it great. Hearty food, including generous picada (sharing platters) and burgers the size of your face make it the ideal place to roll into after a long day of sightseeing. Free raffle tickets are given alongside drinks, and with the prize generally being an extremely generous bar tab, it’s likely you’ll be rolling back out in the early hours.

Market stalls

Wander the streets in downtown Asunción and you can’t miss the numerous market stalls peddling traditional Paraguayan wares. From creamy crochet dresses perfect for summer festivals to brightly embroidered slouch bags, this is the place to pick up the summer essentials you’ll later see gracing the pages of Vogue (with an extortionate price tag.) You’ll also be supporting the indigenous community, thereby avoiding shopping guilt. Opticians

Head to Cerro Corá and you’ll find nearly every shop on this very long, very straight road is an optician. The glass cabinets boast a never-ending array of specs and sunnies which will have you agonising over Jackie O-style shades or vintage aviators. No matter, at less than a tenner a pop I picked up five pairs in a single shopping trip.

La Cachamba

Set in a train graveyard with parts of the bar actually inside the scattered carriages, this is the hangout of choice for Asunción’s cool cats. Fairy lights, wagon wheel tables and swinging garden chairs give it an urban festival vibe, with imaginative cocktails (vodka, watermelon and basil) served in jam jars and chipped enamel cups. The food’s also good; I recommend pizza or lomita (steak sandwich). Gets particularly lively at weekends when local house DJs spin the decks on the open-air dancefloor. Faces

Asunción’s premier nightclub; it’s huge, with plenty of glitz ‘n’ glam and sparklers shooting out of drinks. Probably not somewhere you’d go at home, but it’s it is a lot of fun. Pay (little) to be amongst Paraguay’s elite in the VIP section, or ‘slum’ it with the normal kids on the dancefloor. You’ll be dancing till the early hours and have a hilarious night.

HOW TO GET AROUND It’s only 30p for a bus ticket and I recommend a journey just for the experience. If you can imagine hurtling forward at ridiculous speeds in a tin can which doesn’t fully stop when you want to get on or off, you’re on the right lines. Not an adrenaline junkie? There are always plenty of taxis; they’re cheap, but make sure they use the meter.

WHAT TO PACK

Mercado Cuatro

March to October is the best time to go, with temperatures averaging around 24C. Denim cut-offs or sundresses for the day, rolled up Levi’s and a cropped jumper for night. Sturdy sandals or Converse are essential for sightseeing as the pavements can be treacherous. Paraguayan women are super glam, so pack a statement jewelled necklace which you can throw on to brighten any outfit. Oh, and don’t forget insect repellent. 117

Wild, Wild East:

Punta Del Este Punta Del Este Uruguay

Wo rd s by S e r e n a G u e n P h oto s by To n a Ste l l When people say they are going to Punta del Este, they are not actually going to Punta del Este. The former beach town has sprouted into a city that will soon be able to rival Miami and St Tropez. So if you want something a little more unusual away from the Coca-Cola and Santander signs, then you need to head out of town. Once you land in the tiny airport, we recommend escaping to one of the smaller villages and beaches slightly further up the coast â&#x20AC;&#x201C; our favourites are the picturesque JosĂŠ Ignacio and Manantiales. Here you can experience the charms of Punta del Este in its heyday and still have a party, that is, if you want to.

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José Ignacio To Stay

To Eat

Casa Chic

Manolo

You feel instantly calm when entering the stripped back but luxurious complex of six beach houses next to the lighthouse. Each little house has a kitchen and at least two bedroom suites so you can be independent. Rooms from £149 per night

Milanesa is a staple dish for any Argentinian or Uruguayan and Manolo does one of the best ones in the world. Don’t be deceived by the simplicity of the decor, take one bite of ‘the classic’ filled with breaded veal, rocket, tomato, mayonnaise and olive oil and you will be swooning. Have it as a meal or share it with friends to turn it into a snack. Stop by here before heading to the beach.

To Do

Almacén El Palmar de Jean Paul Bondoux Faro (the lighthouse) – Climb the 121 steps to get a

wonderful view of José Ignacio and burn off your lunch. Go to the beach – If you want to venture a little further

Santa Monica is also very nice. José Ignacio International Film Festival – A fantastic

and unusual selection of South American movies are screened every ‘summer’ (January) in three outdoor locations. Viewers are asked to vote and the winner receives a prize.

A gourmet market-cum-casual café set in José Ignacio’s main square, which was started by one of the most famous chefs in the country. It has lots of outdoor seating on the roof and the terrace in front. The menu is great and slightly different to other offerings in the area; a continental-style breakfast is served until around midday, then there is an eclectic fairly light menu from the afternoon onwards filled with great cheeses, ham, falafel and empanadas. La Huella

The perfect beachside restaurant, come here for a late lunch that goes on until dark. Order a caipiroska upon arrival, a caipirinha made with vodka, and lots of starters to share. If you’re still hungry go for a grilled fish with a pile of chips but make sure that you save room for the volcano cake – indulge yourself and try both the dulce de leche and chocolate flavours, we promise you won’t regret it. Make sure you book in advance because it gets absolutely packed. Marismo

A romantic and intimate setting that is versatile enough for dinners with friends or romantic tête-à-têtes. The setting is gorgeous – canopied tables sit between lanterns in the sand and a firepit. Eat the melted cheese, provoleta inflada, and slowroasted lamb that will melt in your mouth. Again, booking is highly recommended. La Caracola

Take a short trip across the water by boat and spend a long lazy day at this beach club where you can get your own little tent on the beach. Around 2pm they start serving finger food and drinks and then 5pm there is a large spread at the lunch buffet. You will roll away from there in the evening feeling very happy and satisfied. View From Faro (the lighthouse) SUITCASE MAGAZINE

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Manantiales To Stay

To Eat

Oasis Collections

El AlmacĂŠn

Always a reliable choice with lots of price and location options, Oasis Collections give you the flexibility of a villa with the amenities of a boutique hotel. Rooms from ÂŁ118 per night

A solid pick for Manantiales, the restaurant has a very cool owner and decently priced artisinal food. Tip: Get something in a takeaway bag; they are quite a treat in themselves. La Linda

A hidden foodie haven behind the main street of Manantiales, La Linda is beautiful to both the eyes and the stomach. The traditional exterior gives way to a fantastic dining room and a garden shaded by trees. The menu is vast as it is open all day and swings between pastries in the morning to a more formal affair of seafood and local meats and vegetables in the evening. Fish Market

Let us set the scene: picnic tables surrounded by white and blue flowers, an open kitchen, umbrellas and a little pond. Fish Market covers the basics really well, and its approach makes it one of the best restaurants in the area, serving consistently mouthwatering dishes. No Me Olvides

A cheap and cheerful pizzeria with fun young staff. This restaurant is open very late and is the spot to hang out in during summer because of the great music and chilled vibe. If you eat anything make sure you order the caramelised onion pizza.

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Punta Del Este To Stay

To Drink

L’Auberge

Moby Dick

You could be forgiven for thinking you’ve landed in the English countryside upon arriving at L’Auberge. This hotel is a quirkier, quieter getaway – imagine a country village house with an enormous tower sprouting out of it set in a green garden. At 6pm sharp the tea room is flooded with locals clamouring for their waffles with dulce de leche. Rooms from £89 per night

More like a bar with dancing than a club, Moby Dick is the classic spot to meet and go out in Punta Del Este. The crowd is always in good spirits and it has a relaxed vibe that make it an easy go-to option.

To Eat La Bourgogne

A little bit of France in Uruguay, Mallmann’s other venture is unsurprisingly superb. However, like all his establishments, it costs a small fortune to dine there. Freddo

The ubiquitous ice cream chain is somewhere that you must visit at least once on your trip and provides much-needed cooling relief after a day spent crisping yourself up on the beach. There will be many exotic flavours that you will not understand so have a dictionary at the ready.

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La Barra To Stay

To Eat

Casa Zinc

Flo Café

Casa Zinc is a very special experience. A corrugated iron wall separates the tiny hotel from the road, but once inside you are immediately part of the Casa Zinc family. Each of the rooms is designed completely differently – ranging from a dainty gardenview suite to one that looks like a schoolroom complete with an old chalkboard. Then there is the communal table surrounded by art and design books where all the guests eat breakfast or hang out at any given point of the day. If you can, grab a chat with the vivacious owner, Aaron Hojman, who seems to know everything and everyone in Punta del Este. Tip: If you like the rooms, you can find similar treasures to bring home in Aaron’s nearby shop Trading Post. Rooms from £84 per night

A good all-day dining spot that is always in demand. They do a particularly tasty breakfast, which you can eat whilst people-watching.

Hotel Fasano Las Piedras

One of the most amazing hotels that SUITCASE has ever stayed at, Hotel Fasano Las Piedras is something that dreams are made of and is perhaps the ideal honeymoon destination. The architect Isay Weinfeld used the setting to create the hotel, carving the glass-fronted restaurant and swimming pool into rock high on the hill, and there are twelve long slender cement cabins dotted over the sprawling green land. The vast distances between the beach, the polo field, the pool and your room are no mean feat though – each guest house comes with its very own golf car. Make sure you catch the sunset from the bar at the top of the hotel. Set far enough away from the city lights, at night you can see every single star from your room’s terrace. Rooms from £173 per night

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Rex

Go to this American-style diner for their yummy chivitos – sandwiches made with filet mignon, mozzarella, tomatoes, mayonnaise and olives – and drink milkshakes next to models who are probably not eating or drinking either of those things. Medialunas Calentitas

If you speak Spanish, you’ll guess what this café is famous for – their special croissants. A popular spot to come and hang out after a day at the beach.

To Do Beach hop in La Barra from Montoya (for surfers) to Bikini and Manantiales.

To Drink Tequila

Your night at Tequila is very much dependent on the bouncer, ‘El Gallego’. Make sure you dress up and if all else fails and you really want to go, then request a table. But be warned, like most places in Punta del Este, this is not a ‘budget’ option. However, if you do manage to jump through the hoops then you are guaranteed to have a fantastic night out with a lively international crowd.

Hotel Fasano Las Piedras

Great Escapes

Garzón

La Bota

Hotel and restaurant Garzón

Elmo

Head 32km north inland of José Ignacio and you will reach the lush town of Garzón and the delicious restaurant of celebrity chef Francis Mallmann. Nearly everything is cooked in a wood oven, which lends an authenticity to the sophisticated dishes. If you want to fully indulge yourself, the restaurant sits in Mallmann’s hotel where you can happily spend the night. Be warned, it may be the most expensive gnocchi you’ve ever eaten in your life, but it’ll be well worth it for the experience.

Elmo is an extremely affordable and charming pizzeria that is great for an evening meal with friends. First-timers be warned, this little place is not straightforward to find.

What to pack

Tips and Tricks

Low-key and glamorous beachwear, think linen shirts and espadrilles for the boys and lots of white, crocheted and airy dresses for the girls. Don’t forget a panama hat, some leather sandals and some gold-rimmed or tortoiseshell glasses and you’re ready to hit the beach. Bring a few more dressy outfits for the evening.

Go between late December and early March to experience it at its bustling best. Travel later in March if you’d like a quieter retreat but bear in mind that many places will be closed. One of the nicest bits about Punta del Este and its surrounding areas is that it is much safer than other parts of South America.

How to Get There

Rent a car! Taxis are local to their neighbourhoods, there are not many of them and they don’t work on a Sunday afternoon.

Fly to Buenos Aires or Rio, where you can connect to Punta del Este or Carrasco International Airport.

Decide what you want to do there. Four days should be a sufficient amount of time to spend in the area. Many places are cash only (and are not cheap) so make sure that you always carry enough money with you. Eat very late – lunch is at 4pm and most people eat dinner around 10:30pm-midnight. S U I T C A S E M A G A Z I N E 123

The Road through

Rocha Uruguay

Word s by Lu c i n da E l l i ott Ph otos by Pa b lo S osa

A handful of seaside villages which lie along the rugged East coast of Uruguay are slowly becoming some of South America’s most coveted boho-chic hideaways. Nature reserves, vast sand dunes and strict planning rules banning high-rise developments make the state of Rocha the antithesis to the country’s oh-so-fashionable beach resort town of Punta del Este. No luxury brands, society shindigs or dinner reservations necessary; the residents of Rocha eat when they’re hungry, sleep when they’re tired and wear whatever they want. Home to several ecological parks and ideal surf conditions, the area traditionally attracted nature lovers and dreadlocked backpackers. However today they mingle in simple bars with low-key professionals and affluent creatives in search of rest and rusticity under the stunning Southern Cross constellation. For the ultimate back-tobasics experience and 161km of untouched Atlantic shore, the road to Rocha is certainly a path less traveled. 124

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First stop

La Pedrera This bustling beach town with low-slung cottages is about 200km east from Uruguay’s capital Montevideo. With a variety of accommodation options, from simpler hostels to boutique hotels, it’s the perfect place to settle into the ritmo latino. La Pedrera

To Stay

To Do

Pueblo de Barrancas

Carnival

Choose from yurts, military-style tents or more luxurious cabins on stilts at this eco village just outside La Pedrera. A camping experience complete with hot water power showers, wifi and al fresco dining. The extensive gardens are lined with ombú trees and you’re just seconds away from a vast solitary stretch of sand. Tents from £47 per night

La Pedrera transforms in the week of Carnival with musicians from neighbouring Brazil and Argentina flocking to perform alongside the lulling sounds of the ocean. Dates alter but Carnival falls in and around February and March. Ride on horseback

Posada Buscavida, which is open in the Southern Hemisphere’s summer, can arrange horseback rides to the nearby sand dunes at Cabo Polonio, perhaps Rocha’s most emblematic site. 125

Second stop

Cabo Polonio

No electric light or cars allowed, El Cabo, as locals call it, is for those who want to truly disconnect. The protected sand dune reserve has no roads, hundreds of sea lions and a dozen or so brightly coloured shacks, reached only by safari-style buggies from the main road. Most people just spend the day on the secluded beaches, stop for lunch and explore the market. Accommodation options are limited, but it is well worth staying the night during the summer months to see the town lit up by candlelight.

Cabo Polonio

To Stay

To Do

There are several simple hostels where you can bathe in makeshift bucket showers with water from a nearby stream. There are also two solar-powered hotels which boast of their electrical prowess. Remember to stock up on candles from the local shop before night falls so you can find your way to bed after dinner. Beds from £5 a night

The Dunes

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If you want total isolation and spectacular views then head across the dunes between Cabo Polonio and the fisherman’s village of Valizas. Set off at dawn to avoid the midday rays. The distance isn’t too daunting at 10km, however walking in sand makes it feel much lengthier. Expect to see the odd sea lion or walrus basking in the sunshine and a friendly traveller or two. If the tide is right when you reach Valizas then a small boat will take you across to the main beach. Order a fresh passion fruit licuado to the sound of reggae buskers and collapse under a sunshade. Regular buses from Valizas take you back to Cabo or the surrounding coastal towns – don’t return across the dunes at night when it’s extremely cold and dark; you will get lost.

Final stop

Punta del Diablo

Devil’s point certainly lives up to its name; late night partygoers are welcomed and petrol-powered vehicles permitted. Jutting out into the Atlantic, the peninsula is heaving with sandyhaired surfers during the South American summer and attracts big-name DJs.

To Stay

To Sample

La Viuda del Diablo

Buñuelos de algas

Sea-view suites with private balconies and king-size beds at this intimate and well-located boutique hotel. Rooms from £83 a night

These mini fried balls of seaweed and algae drizzled in fresh lemon juice are a local delicacy.

To Do

Grappa Miel

Sweet honey liquor aperitif, perfect with a block of ice (also sold in handy small screw-top bottles – ideal when beach-hopping.)

Kitesurfing

The fierce Atlantic waves are not for the fainthearted, but the constant light winds make this area of Rocha ideal for kitesurfing. Lessons from £15

Watermelon

Uruguayans say if you place a whole one in direct sunshine it will stay cool for the entire day. Cut up and share post swim.

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How to get there

What to pack

Direct flights from Madrid to Montevideo via Air Europa; daily local flights from all main Brazilian cities via Gol or Tam airlines. If in Buenos Aires, take the affordable ferry across the River Plate direct to Montevideo.

Everything is very low key, only flip-flops or espadrilles necessary. If in Cabo, make sure you take a hat as there is very little shade. And beware of mozzies, especially if camping, although there is no risk of yellow fever or malaria in Uruguay.

There is a regular and efficient coach service from Montevideo’s Tres Cruces bus station to the state of Rocha for under $20 (£15) through companies COT, Nuñez or Rutas del Sol. Allow a journey time of four to five hours; the bus route stops at several destinations along the east coast including La Pedrera, Cabo Polonio and Punta del Diablo.

$ £ €

Tres Cruces Terminal

Tel: +598 2402 5363 COT

Tel: +598 2409 4949 RUTAS DEL SOL

There are very few international cash points along the route so take plenty of Uruguayan pesos with you. Money can be exchanged at the Tres Cruces bus station and in La Pedrera. Credit/debit cards are accepted in most hostels and hotels but check before you travel. Food and drink is affordable, especially when compared to Punta del Este. I’d budget for around £45 a day which would include three meals, drinks, transport to other areas and a bit of shopping. That being said, it’s always better to bring a bit more due to the limited number of cashpoints.

Tel: +598 2402 5451 trescruces.com.uy

When to go

Air Europa

Best in the Southern Hemisphere summer, which runs from December to March. Easter is slightly milder and the route is lively due to ‘tourism’ week in Uruguay. Between June and July, the whales migrate South – but temperatures drop significantly and most of the bars and restaurants are closed.

aireuropa.com GOL

voegol.com.br

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Notes on a City:

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Cementerio de la Recoleta - Photo SUITCA S E M Aby G ATona Z I N EStell 131

Words by Mariana Ferr a r a zzo According to an old traditional saying, the streets of Buenos Aires have that je ne sais quoi, or ‘las callecitas de Buenos Aires tienen ese no sé qué’. Busy cafés and bars, elegant barrios, vast parks, and breathtaking riversides combine to create an electric atmosphere that we enjoy every time we stroll along our green streets. Proud of our charming and vibrant cultural life, the local porteños are a sensual mixture of noisy, sociable, curious and welcoming people; always proud to introduce newcomers to the

Buenos Aires Argentina

wonders of this modern Latin-American metropolis.

TO STAY The Clubhouse

Fierro Hotel

If you’re travelling with a friend and want to be fully immersed in the young, creative side of Buenos Aires then stay at The Clubhouse. Predominantly a members club, it has three guestrooms, so visitors become wholly integrated into The Clubhouse family. Expect to meet the top designers and editors in the country, and the manager will be able to put you on the list for any party that you wish to attend. From £100 per night

A straightforward boutique establishment, you get what you pay for at Hotel Fierro. The hotel has a little heated pool on the roof and is conveniently located in the creative Palermo district, which is full of fun restaurants, shops and bars. From £89 per night

Four Seasons

The Four Seasons always means high quality, and their conveniently located property in Recoleta is no exception. A modern hotel block is attached to a belle époque-style mansion via a beautiful terrace with a serene swimming pool and an outdoor bar area. The restaurants, Elena and Nuestro Secreto, offer some of the best food in the city and there is a seperate menu for any gluten-free foodies. A good pick for a family. Tip: Ask for General Manager Tulio Hochkoeppler, he will ensure your trip runs as smoothly as possible. From £414 per night

Home Hotel

A 20-room award-winning hotel, this ivy-covered retreat is an oasis of calm in the middle of Palermo. Filled with comfortable Scandinavian and French-inspired delights, the eclectic boutique brings together the concept of a home and a hotel. The pool, complete with its own bar, is a nice place to sit and relax with a cocktail after a long day of sightseeing. From £119 per night

Park Hyatt

This stunning hotel comes in two parts, a beautiful old mansion and a contemporary structure. The Hyatt has impeccable service, making it a very reliable business hotel. It has everything that a business traveller could want – an art gallery, a pool and a phenomenal pastry chef who makes a mean alfajor (a biscuit sandwich filled with dulce de leche.) From £389 per night

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UITCA S E M Aby G ATona Z I N EStell 133 LaS Boca - Photo

TO EAT Osaka

Casa Coupage

A Japanese-Peruvian fusion restaurant with two spectacular locations in Puerto Madero and Palermo Viejo. Palermo Viejo is particularly spectacular with a vast terrace perfect for afterdinner drinks. If fruity saccharine drinks are your thing then don’t miss trying out their classic ‘berry nice’ cocktail.

A closed-door restaurant that was started by a couple as the result of a successful wine and supper club. Some say it has the best food and wine in the whole of Buenos Aires. Go for the tasting menu and let them know if you have any dietary requirements beforehand, they are happy to accommodate. Very simple but the atmosphere is fantastic – make sure you speak to one of the owners, they are founts of knowledge and tell wonderful stories.

Dadá

A classic spot in for the young cool porteño crowd, Dadá is the ideal place to go with friends and sample the local scene. Away from the regular touristy circuits, it is a vibrant yet relaxed sidewalk bar; a meeting place in Microcentreo with an outdoor smoking and drinking area. Sometimes a lucky few enjoy an ‘after closing hours party’, when bartenders close the curtains and guests are invited for drinks and dancing on top of the bar. Tegui

Don’t be fooled by its simple black door and graffitied wall, this is one of the best (and most expensive) restaurants in Palermo Viejo. Guests can enjoy its contemporary architecture and decoration while working their way through the chef’s menu – red tuna and the camembert soufflé are my favourites. It’s best to make a reservation.

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Olsen

This Nordic-style restaurant has one of the best gardens in Palermo Viejo. A lush, green environment of old trees, bushes and modern sculptures provides an inimitable backdrop for any meal during the day or evening. The menu includes over 40 different vodkas from around the world. I strongly recommend Olsen for Sunday brunch or a romantic dinner. El Obrero

A typical cantina, this restaurant is considered a landmark in the historic La Boca neighbourhood. It opens at noon so make sure you arrive before 1pm for lunch, or make a reservation so you can try their amazing Spanish tortilla.

Osaka

Casa Coupage

Tegui - Photo by Fla Radici

Olsen - Photo by Fla Radici

Chan Chan

Guido

A classic choice for those porteños who love typical Peruvian food, as it serves fantastic ceviche. Neither pretentious nor overly-fashionable, it’s all about the food. Here you will always find loud group of friends gathered around several sharing dishes. Always packed, even on Sunday nights. Tip: In case you are unable to get a table, try El Perlado, right next door…. you won’t regret your trip to Microcentro.

A pure and simple Italian in Palermo, Guido’s shows our deep Italian roots and reveals how much we love Mediterranean food. You can order tapas during happy hour every day, a good option for pasta lovers. Caseros

The perfect lunch spot after a walk round the San Telmo antique market on Sundays, it is cosy, affordable and has very good food.

Aldo’s Vinoteca

With more than 600 choices of wine, Aldo’s is the perfect spot for wine and jazz lovers in San Telmo. Unknown to many, Aldo’s is connected by a staircase to the Bebop Jazz Club, where you can have a glass of wine after dinner, or head directly to the club and enjoy some good music. Nuestro Secreto

Located in a beautiful old Buenos Aires mansion which is part of the Four Seasons Hotel, this grill has an atmosphere that is unparalleled in the city. Tables are positioned in a secret garden or under a glass roof. On Wednesday and Thursday nights, check out the hotel´s Ponyline Bar – one of the best after-office gathering spots.

El Cuartito

Walking distance from the Colón Theater, in the central area of Buenos Aires, El Cuartito is a lively pizza spot for the posttheatre crowd. The restaurant has seating, but there is also the cheaper option of standing, and you can get a takeaway if there is a queue. Highest on my list is their epic cheese and onion ‘fugazetta’ pizza. Boca A Boca

An old corner house next to the Usina del Artes in La Boca with a lovely, fresh, colourful patio for lunch and dinner. There is tango music during the evenings; occasionally tango lessons are offered in an adjacent wood-floor room. I highly recommend the Argentinian wines and cuts of meat.

Farinelli

Buenos Aires’ version of London’s Ottolenghi, Farinelli has two locations, in Palermo and in Recoleta, both perfect for brunch and lunch (but closed for dinner.) Food is made fresh with a different menu each day. Their passion fruit cheesecake is a must!

Farinelli - Photo by Fla Radici 135

TO DO

TO SHOP

Proa En La Boca

Fueguia 1833

Fundación Proa Museum in La Boca has a fantastic rooftop restaurant, with one of the best views of the Río de la Plata and the Caminito walkway.

Fueguia 1833 is a ‘scent laboratory’ born from a long-standing relationship between France and South America. They have teams in both hemispheres who identify native species in order to create fragrances both in Grasse and Buenos Aires, which reflect the exotic variety and rich history of South America. The beautiful packaging and handwritten labels make it the perfect gift to take back home for friends and family.

Patio Del Liceo Art Gallery

Originally a school, this is now home to several fashion and design pop-up stores as well as small art galleries that welcome local and international artists. Follow them on Facebook, they have great parties in the communal indoor garden. Walking Tour – Puerto Madero At Night

After some drinks at the Faena Hotel, take a quiet, romantic walk along the renovated and lively docks of the old port.

San Telmo Market

An 1897 indoor market constructed from glass and iron on Bolívar and Carlos Calvo Streets, it houses a mixture of antiques, food and bookstores. Tip: Don’t hesitate to bargain in Buenos Aires markets.

La Noche De Los Museos

Gabriel Del Campo

This is one of the most important art events in town. On one Saturday night in November all the city’s museums and art galleries stay open until midnight. Relax with a drink and take in live music, performances and shows. Don’t hesitate to walk from one spot to another, this is when the city truly comes to life.

Across the street from San Telmo’s Plaza Dorrego, this shop stocks eclectic and exquisite antiques. Juan Perez

Juan Perez has the best vintage clothes for bargain hunters.

El Rosedal – The Rose Garden – Palermo Parks

Cualquier Verdura

One of the most amazing parks in Buenos Aires, this garden by the Palermo Lakes blooms with a variety of roses in early October. Try renting a pedalo – an unusual but inexpensive activity.

The shop, in a typical colonial house in San Telmo, offers a variety of quirky homeware pieces. Don’t be shy, you can take pictures in every corner of this unique store – including the kitchen, the living room and the patio.

Polo Season in November

Panorama

In November, Buenos Aires plays host to the ‘Abierto de Polo Argentino’ in the polo fields of Palermo. It is one of the most important social events in the city where polo lovers will get to see the best teams in the world. Tip: Buy your tickets in advance as they sell out very quickly. If you are only going to one match, don’t miss the final. The after parties are also a lot of fun.

This store promotes young up-and-coming Argentinian designers. With original, special pieces, this is a must for fashionistas.

Proa Café - Photo by Patricio Pidal 136

Kabinett

A self-defined ‘imagination, culture, design, architecture, art-fashion, music-show, special, friendly and avant-garde concept store’, this shop will introduce you to the latest in design. Keep updated with their Facebook page, they usually hold small fun events in the store with good drinks and music.

FUEGUIA 1833

TO DRINK and DANCE La Florería Atlántico The speakeasy trend has arrived in Buenos Aires and this is one of my favourite spots in Recoleta. From the outside it looks like a shop selling flowers and wine. Once inside, you let yourself in through a big refrigerator door. There are cocktails for every whim, let the bartenders improvise something special for you based on your preferences.

Café San Bernardo

If you want to have a real porteño experience, head over on a Tuesday night to this amazing pool bar, where you can play ping pong and all kind of table games. Open 24/7, the bar is perfect for large, loud groups if you are willing to share beers and interact with the locals. Bar Rodney

Frank’s

My second-favourite speakeasy, you have to know a password to get in (clues are given every day on their Facebook page.) Once inside, you enter a phone booth that is, in fact, the access door to a 20s-style bar. Frank’s has fantastic cocktails and is a great place to spend a weeknight. Don’t forget to have the password ready, the doormen are very strict. Faena Pool Bar

Buenos Aires’ trendiest hotel, the Hotel Faena Puerto Madero designed by Philippe Starck, has a must-see pool bar. Don’t be intimidated by the giant crown on the pool, everyone is welcome. A good spot for drinks after dinner, the bar has good music and a cool international crowd.

An iconic bar located in the up-and-coming neighborhood of Chacarita. Rock bands play in this bar a la calle, or street bar, which is a unique spot in Buenos Aires thanks to its eclectic crowd. Tequila

Small and private, this is the trendiest club in Buenos Aires. Thursdays and Saturdays are the best days to enjoy good DJs. To get in, make sure to arrive before 2am or book a table, otherwise you might have to wait and queue for a very long time. Pacha

An Ibiza classic in Buenos Aires, the club is home to the best local and international DJs. Check out their webpage for details of the line-up. Isabel - Photo by Michigan Rabbit

Isabel Bar & Restaurant One of the hottest cocktail bars in Palermo, with a mirrored bathroom that will make you visit it more than once in the night. Once a month, Buenos Aires’ coolest photographer Michigan Rabbit throws a party with the best local DJs. Follow him on Instagram for dates @MichiganRabbit. Tip: Gaby, the doorman, will always let you in as long as you are properly dressed and throw him a big smile.

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HOW TO GET AROUND Taxi

Cab drivers in Buenos Aires never have change. So make sure you always have small bills and some coins for these occasions. We usually leave a 10 per cent tip. Bus

Tickets are around 5$ (37p) depending on the distance. Machines donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t take notes, so always carry some coins with you. There are no weekly passes; porteĂąos use a SUBE card that can be purchased and reloaded in authorised kiosks. 138

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Great Escapes

Estancia La Bamba de Areco San Antonio de Areco Word s by S e r e n a G u e n

Driving down the shady tree-lined dirt road to La Bamba, it’s hard to believe that you are only a couple of hours from Argentina’s frenetic capital. Once you step out of the car you are inside one of the oldest estancias in the country set in vast stretches of parkland. A traditional Argentinian masterhouse wraps around a courtyard and there is a placid swimming pool nearby. Seize the opportunity to switch off, leave your phone in your room, grab one of the beautifully groomed polo horses and go riding with a gaucho guide. Upon your return, one of the staff

will serve you cold beer, wine and golden empanadas in the Pulperia, which you can take to sit by the pool. In the summer, lunch is served to guests and staff at a communal outdoor table. Sit back and tuck into the piles of grilled meats and oven-roasted potatoes, with a fine crêpe stuffed with dulce de leche for dessert (they even have a gluten-free version.) If you are lucky enough to stay overnight, dinner is slightly more formal but also served en famille. Filled with food and refreshed by being outdoors, you will return feeling invigorated and very, very happy. Rooms from £334 per night, day rates from £83

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What to Pack

Buenos Aires 2

1. Polaroid 635 CL Camera Avg. £40, 2. Nicole Farhi Seafoam Suede Biker Jacket £950, 3. Carven Vichy Print Blue Bag £143, 4. Rodin Perfume £150, 5. Kahina Toning Mist £38, 6. & Other Stories Day Cream £15, 7. Muji World Travel USB Adapter £21.95 140

8. Carven Oxford Sky Blue Shorts £290, 9. Each x Other English Embroidery Top £230, 10. Prism Cream Tortoiseshell Sydney Sunglasses £265, 11. Aesop Jet Set £27, 12. Loeffler Randall Winona Sandals £122 141

Photographerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s diary

Chile Word s a n d p h oto s by C ha r l i e R e a de r

This was my first time travelling to South America and I can honestly say that Chile was one of the most beautiful places I have ever been to. We had an exhausting but extremely rewarding trip, clocking about 2,600km in our van as we drove up and down the country over an eight-day period. The mountainous terrain was epic in scale and gave you an incredible sense of perspective; it constantly reminded us just how small we really are. We couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t help but think about how long the landscape has remained unchanged. Every shot we took was like capturing a moment of eternity. It made us realise that in the grand scheme of things, whether we were up a mountain, in a valley or in the middle of a desert, our moments there were fleeting.

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RoadSleading Embalse ElE Yeso U I T C A Sto E M AGAZIN 143

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Putaendo

Embalse El Yeso

Santiago 145

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Embalse ElE Yeso SUITCASE M AGAZIN 147

Clockwise from top left:

Antler Large Prospero £200 148

Ted Baker Take Flight £250

Rimowa Topas £715

Aspinal of London Candy Case £750

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Buenos Aires, Argentina TO stay

TO EAT

THE Clubhouse

Aldos Vinoteca

El Cuartito

Nuestro Secreto

Costa Rica 4651 Palermo +54 11 4832 5276 clubhouseba.com

Moreno 372 Monserrat +54 11 4334 2380 aldosvinoteca.com

Talcahuano 937 El Centro +54 11 4816 1758 galeriaelcuartito.com.ar

Posadas 1086 Recoleta +54 11 4321 1200 fourseasons.com/ buenosaires

Four Seasons

Casa Coupage

El Obrero

Posadas 1086/88 Recoleta +54 11 4321 1200 fourseasons.com/ buenosaires

Soler 5518 Palermo +54 11 4777 9295 casacoupage.com

Agustín R. Caffarena 64 La Boca +54 11 4362 9912 Farinelli

Caseros FIERRO HOTEL

Soler 5862 Palermo +54 11 3220 6800 fierrohotel.com

Caseros 486 San Telmo +54 11 4307 4729 caserosrestaurante.com.ar Chan Chan

Home Hotel

Honduras 5860 Palermo +54 11 3220 6800 homebuenosaires.com Park Hyatt

Av. Alvear 1661 Recoleta +54 11 5171 1234 buenosaires.park.hyatt.com

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Hipolito Yrigoyen 1390 Monserrat +54 11 4382 8492 DADÀ

San Martin 941 Retiro +54 11 4314 4787 dadabistro.blogspot.com

Bulnes 2707 Palermo +54 11 4802 2014 or Arroyo 900 Retiro + 54 11 4328 7998 farinelli.com.ar

Olsen

Gorriti 5870 Palermo +54 11 4776 7677 facebook.com/ olsenrestaurant Osaka

Soler 5608 Palermo +54 11 4775 6964 osaka.com.pe Tegui

Guido

Avenida Cerviño 3943 Almagro +54 11 4802 1262 guidorestaurant.com.ar

Costa Rica 5852 Palermo +54 11 5291 3333 tegui.com.ar

Buenos Aires, Argentina TO Drink and Dance Bar de Rodney

Frank’s

Rodney 400 Chacarita +54 11 4854 5893 facebook.com/barrodney

Arévalo 1445 Palermo +54 11 4777 6541 franks-bar.com

TO SHOP

TO DO

Cualquier Verdura

El Rosedal

Humberto Primo 517 San Telmo +54 11 4300 2474 cualquierverdura.com.ar

Parque Tres de Febrero Palermo

FUEGUIA 1833 Cafe San Bernardo

Isabel Bar

Avenida Corrientes 5436 Villa Crespo +54 11 4855 3956 Facebook: Cafe San Bernardo

Uriarte 1664 Palermo +54 11 4834 6969 isabelbar.com

Faena Pool Bar

PACHA

Martha Salotti 445 Puerto Madero +54 11 4010 9000 faena.com

Avenida Rafael Obligado 6151 Costanera Norte +54 11 4788 4280 pachabuenosaires.com

Floreria Atlantico

Tequila

Arroyo 872 Recoleta +54 11 4313 6093 facebook.com/ floreriaatlantico

Avenida Rafael Obligado 6211 Costanera Norte +54 11 4781 6555

Avenida Alvear 1680 Recoleta +54 11 4311 5360 fueguia.com Gabriel del Campo

Bethlem 427 San Telmo +54 11 4307 6589

Fundación Proa

Avenida Don Pedro de Mendoza 1929 La Boca +54 11 4104 1000 proa.org GalerÍa Patio del Liceo

Avenida Santa Fé 2729 Palermo +54 11 4822 9433 galeriapatiodelliceo.com

Juan Perez

M.T. de Alvear 1355

Recoleta +54 11 4815 8442 juan-perez.tumblr.com Kabinett

Gurruchaga 1744 Palermo +54 11 4833 7447 kabinett.us Panorama

República de la India 2905 Palermo +54 15 3071 2790 pnrm.com.ar San Telmo Market

Mercado de San Telmo Calle Defensa 963

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Asunción, Paraguay TO STAY

TO EAT

Arthaus Boutique Hotel

Café Literario

Dr. Cirilo Caceres Zorrilla 1325 and Dr. Molas López +595 21 660 829 arthaushotel.com La Misión Boutique Hotel

Dr. Eulogio Estigarribia 4990 and San Roque González +595 21 621 800 lamision.com.py

Mariscal Estigarribia 456 and Mexico +595 21 491 640

Cruz Del Defensor and Alberto de Sousa +595 56 558 866 Hacienda Las Palomas

Guido Spano 1481 and Senador Long +595 21 605 111

Montevideo 1029 between Jejuí and Manduvira +595 21 441 209 urbanianhostel.com

Lido Bar

TO SHO P

TO DO

Casa Vera

Costanera

Palma and Caballero +595 21 445 868 casavera.com.py

Avenida Costanera

Palma and Chile +595 21 446 171 facebook.com/elcafeliterario

Loma San Jeronimo

Avenida Republica and César Diaz Pefaur

Plaza Juan E. O’leary Mercado Cuatro Opticians

Cerro Corá and Brasil

Silvio Pettirossi and Mayor Fleitas Sunset Motel Boutique

Calle Porá and Avenida Juan Domingo Perón +595 21 909 072 sunsetmotel.com.py

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Britannia Pub

Cerro Corá 851 and Tacuari +595 21 443 990 britannia-pub.com

El Mercadito

Urbanian Hostel

Market Stalls

TO D R INK a n d Da n c e

Face’s Pub

Avenida Mariscal Lopez and Insaurralde Fernando de la Mora +595 21 671 421 faces.com.py La Cachamba

Manuel Gondra and Avenida Mariscal López +595 21 441 000

Rio de Janeiro, Brazil TO STAY

TO EAT

Fasano

Bar do Mineiro

Espirito Santa

T.T. Burger

Avenida Vieira Souto 80 Ipanema +55 21 3202 4000 fasano.com.br

Rua Paschoal Carlos Magno 99 Santa Teresa +55 21 2221 9227 bardomineiro.net

Rua Almirante Alexandrino 264 Santa Teresa +55 21 2507 4840 espiritosanta.com.br

Rua Francisco Otaviano 67 Arpoador +55 21 3217 5220 facebook.com/ reservattburger

E1 Lotes 3 e 4 Condomínio Atlântico Búzios +55 22 2623 2172 insolitos.com.br

Café Lamas

Laguiole

Yumê

Rua Marquês de Abrantes 18 Flamengo +55 21 2556 0799 cafelamas.com.br

Avenida Infante Dom Henrique 85 Parque do Flamengo +55 21 2517 5129

Rua Pacheco Leão 758 Jardim Botânico +55 21 3205 7321 yumekin.com

Santa Teresa

Confeitaria Colombo

Rua Gonçalves Dias 32 Centro +55 21 2505-1500 confeitariacolombo.com.br

Restaurante Aprazível

Zazá Bistrô

Rua Almirante Alexandrino 660 Santa Teresa +55 361 975 963 santa-teresa-hotel.com

Insolito

TO DRINK and DANCE Carioca da Gema

Avenida Mem de Sá 79 Lapa +55 21 2221 0043 barcariocadagema.com.br Circo Voador

Rua Dos Arcos Lapa +55 21 2533 0354 circovoador.com.br Fosfobox

Rua Siqueira Campos 143 Copacabana +55 21 2548 7498 fosfobox.com.br Palaphita Kitch

Avenida Epitácio Pessoa Quiosque 20 Parque Cantagalo Lagoa +55 21 2227 0837 palaphitakitch.com.br

Rua Aprazível 62 Santa Teresa +55 21 2508 9174 aprazivel.com.br

Rua Joana Angélica 40 Ipanema +55 21 2247 9101 zazabistro.com.br

TO SHO P

TO DO

Paxeco Bar

Cris Barros

Rua Pacheco Leão 724 Jardim Botânico +55 21 3114 8710 paxecobar.com.br

Rua Ataulfo de Paiva 270 Loja 302 Leblon crisbarros.com.br

Corcovado Trek from Parque Lage

The Maze

Dona Coisa

Rua Tavares Bastos 414 Catete +55 21 2558 5547 jazzrio.com

Rua Lopes Quintas 157 Jardim Botânico +55 21 3322 1176 donacoisa.com.br Rua Visconde de Pirajá

Ipanema

Rua Jardim Botânico 414 Jardim Botânico parquedatijuca.com.br/ trilhas.php Ipanema Beach

Posto Nine Museu de Arte do Rio

Praça Mauá 5 Centro +55 21 3031 2741 museudeartedorio.org.br Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon

Avendia Epitacio Pessoa Lagoa

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São Paulo, Brazil TO STAY

TO EAT

Hotel Emiliano

Coffee Lab

Mimo

Rua Oscar Freire 384 Jardim Paulista +55 11 3068 4399 emiliano.com.br

Rua Fradique Coutinho 1340 Vila Madalena +55 11 3375 7400 raposeiras.com.br

Rua Caconde 118 Jardim Paulista +55 11 3052 2517 mimorestaurante.com.br

Hotel Fasano

Dalva e Dito

Museo Veronica

Rua Vitório Fasano 88 Jardins +55 11 3896 4000 fasano.com.br

Rua Padre João Manuel 1115 Cerqueira César +55 11 3068 4444 dalvaedito.com.br

Rua Tuim 370 Moema +55 11 5051 2654

Hotel Unique

DeliqatÊ

Avenida Brigadeiro Luís Antônio 4700 Jardim Paulista +55 11 3055 4700 hotelunique.com.br

Alameda Jaú 1191 Jardim Paulista +55 11 3063 4988 deliqate.com

Nagayama

Ramona Enoteca Saint Vin Saint

WE Hostel Design

Rua Morgado de Mateus 567 Vila Mariana +55 11 2615 2262 wehostel.com.br

Rua Professor Atílio Innocenti 811 Vila Nova Conceição +55 11 3846 0384 saintvinsaint.com.br Lola Parrilla

Rua Purpurina 38 Villa Madalena +55 11 3034 3773 facebook.com/ restaurantelolaparrilla ManÍ

Rua Joaquim Antunes 210 Jardim Paulista +55 11 3085 4148 manimanioca.com.br

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Rua Bandeira Paulista 355 Itaim Bibi +55 11 3079 4675 nagayama.com.br

Avenida São Luís 282 República +55 11 3258 6385 casaramona.com.br

São Paulo, Brazil TO SHO P Alexandre Herchcovitch

Rua Melo Alves 561 Jardim Paulista +55 11 3063 2888 herchcovitch.uol.com.br Cris Barros

Rua Vitório Fasano 85 Jardim Paulista +55 11 3082 3621 crisbarros.com.br Egrey

Rua da Consolação 3411 Jardins + 55 11 3082 6505 egrey.com.br Osklen

Rua Oscar Freire 645 Cerqueira César + 55 11 3083 7977 osklen.com

TO D R INK a n d dan c e

TO D o Beco do batman

B.Bar

Alameda Jau & Rua Augusta Cerqueira César

Rua Gonçalo Afonso Vila Madalena EdifÍcio Copan

Casa 92

Rua Cristóvão Gonçalves 92 Pinheiros +55 11 3032 0371 92casa.com.br Chez Oscar

Rua Oscar Freire 1128 Jardins +55 11 3081 2966 chezoscar.com.br D-Edge

Avenida Auro Soares de Moura Andrade 141 Barra Funda +55 11 3665 9500 d-edge.com.br

Avenida Ipiranga 200 República copansp.com.br Pivô

Edifício Copan Avenida Ipiranga 200 República +55 11 3255 8703 pivo.org.br Museu da Imagem e do Som de São Paulo (MIS)

Avenida Europa 158 Pinheiros +55 11 2117 4777 mis-sp.org.br

Drosophyla Paula Raia

Rua André Fernandes 175 Itaim Bibi +55 11 3073 1205 paularaia.com.br

Rua Pedro Taques 80 Consolação +55 11 3120 5535 drosophyla.com.br Paribar

Silvia Furmanovich

Shopping Cidade Jardim Av. Magalhães de Castro 12000 + 55 11 3552 1460 silviafurmanovich.com.br

Praça Dom José Gaspar 42 República +55 11 3237 0771 paribar.com.br Riviera

Avenida Paulista 2584 Consolação +55 11 3231 3705 rivierabar.com.br

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Trancoso, Brazil TO STAY

TO EAT

TO DO Terravista Golf Course

Etnia Clube de Mar

Capim Santo

Estrada Municipal de Trancoso Itaquena, 300km +55 73 3668 2065 etniaclubedemar.com.br

Rua Do Beco 55 Quadrado +55 73 3668 1800 capimsanto.com.br/trancoso

Uxua Casa Hotel

Praça São João 126 Quadrado +55 73 4581 0000 elgordotrancoso.com.br

El Gordo

Quadrado +55 73 3668 2277 uxua.com Villas de Trancoso

Los Negros

Estrada Arraial D’Ajuda +55 73 3668 1151 villasdetrancoso.com

Rua Carlos Alberto Parracho 121 +55 73 8804 1458 losnegrosjacaretrancoso.com O Cacau

Praça São João 96 Quadrado +55 73 3668 1266 ocacautrancoso.com.br Sylvinha’s

Praia do Espelho +55 73 9985 4157

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Estrada Municipal de Trancoso, 18km +55 73 2105 2104 terravistagolfcourse.com.br

TO D R INK Monkey Bar

Ask your hotel +55 73 3668 1562 viladosmacacos.com

Uruguay José Ignacio TO STAY

Manantiales

TO STAY

Casa Chic

Oasis Collections

Calle Los Teros and Calle Las Calandrias +598 5272 6194 casa-chic.com

oasiscollections.com TO EAT El Almacén

TO EAT Almacén El Palmar de Jean Paul Bondoux

Calle Las Garzas between Calle Eugenio Sainz Martínez and Calle Las Golondrinas +598 4486 2102 Facebook: Almacén El Palmar de Jean Paul Bondoux

Ruta 10 and Rua 18 de Julio +598 4277 4432 Facebook: El Almacén

La Bota Elmo

La Linda

Rua 18 de Julio and Rua Montevideo +598 4277 5224 lalinda.com.uy

La Huella

TO STAY

Marismo

Ruta 10, 185km +598 42 486 2273

Tequila

Fish Market

Ruta 10, 164km +598 4277 5154

Manolo

Rex

Ruta 10, 161km +598 4277 1504 rexpuntadeleste.com

Ruta 10, 163.5km +598 4277 4431

La Caracola

Calle Las Golondrinas & Calle de los Cisnes +598 4486 2089

El Tesoro +598 4277 2347 medialunascalentitas.com

Calle 11 +598 9895 0960

Camino a la Laguna Garzón Ruta 10, 185km +598 9422 3015 paradorlacaracola.com

Calle de Los Cisnes +598 4486 2279 paradorlahuella.com

Medialunas Calentitas

No Me Olvides

La Barra Casa Zinc

El Tesoro +598 9962 0066 casazinc.com Hotel Fasano Las Piedras

Cno. Cerro Egusquiza and Paso Del Barranco +598 4267 0000 laspiedrasfasano.com TO EAT Flo Café

Calle 27 and Avenida Gorlero +598 4277 1481

La Bota +598 9406 9111 elmo.com.uy

Punta Del Este

TO STAY

L’Auberge

Carnoustie and Avenida del Agua +598 4248 8888 laubergehotel.com TO EAT Freddo

20 El Remanso +598 4244 4864 freddouruguay.com La Bourgogne

Pedragosa Sierra and Avenida del Mar +598 4248 2007

Garzón

Hotel and restaurant Garzón

Garzón +598 4410 2811 restaurantegarzon.com

Rocha

TO STAY Cabo Polonio Hostel

Playa Norte Cabo Polonio +598 9944 5943 cabopoloniohostel.com La Viuda del Diablo

Playa de la Viuda Simón Bolívar Punta del Diablo +598 9989 1950 laviudadeldiablo.com Pueblo de Barrancas

Ruta 10, 227.5km San Sebastián de La Pedrera +598 9743 8404 pueblobarrancas.com TO DO La Surfera Surf School

Punta del Diablo +598 9911 1931 Posada Buscavida

Oceanía del Polonio Ruta 10, 254km La Pedrera +594 4470 5207

TO D R INK Moby Dick

Rambla Artigas 650 Puerto de Punta del Este +598 4244 1240 mobydick.com.uy

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Sto ck ists A & Other Stories stories.com A-Line a-linelondon.com Aesop aesop.com Agent Provocateur agentprovocateur.com American Apparel americanapparel.net Ancient Greek Sandals matchesfashion.com Antler antler.co.uk Aqua Oleum aqua-oleum.co.uk Ashish brownsfashion.com Aspinal of London aspinaloflondon.com ASOS asos.com Aurelia aureliaskincare.com Aveda aveda.co.uk B Bantu Wax barneys.com Bill + Mar billandmar.com Björn Borg bjornborg.com Black Chicken medusa-apothecary.co.uk Bobbi Brown bobbibrown.co.uk C Cartier cartier.co.uk Carven net-a-porter.com CÉline Mount Street Chadwick Bell chadwickbell.com Chanel chanel.com Chantecaille spacenk.com Charlie May charlie-may.co.uk Clarins clarins.co.uk Creatures of the Wind creaturesofthewind.com CrÈme de la Mer cremedelamer.co.uk Current/Elliott net-a-porter.com D Dannijo matchesfashion.com Delfina Delettrez matchesfashion.com Derek Lam net-a-porter.com Dr. Martens drmartens.com E Each x Other net-a-porter.com Emma Cook emmacook.co.uk Escada escada.com F Fendi net-a-porter.com Fornasetti milkconceptboutique.co.uk Frescobol Carioca frescobolcarioca.com

G Globe-Trotter globetrotter1897.com H Helmut Lang net-a-porter.com HermÈs hermes.com Holly Fulton laboratoria-shop.com I Incognito lessmosquito.com Isabel Marant net-a-porter.com J James Read jamesreadtan.com Jennifer Behr net-a-porter.com Jennifer Fisher net-a-porter.com Jil Sander jilsander.com K K-Swiss kswiss.co.uk Kahina giving beauty kahina-givingbeauty.com Kindle amazon.co.uk L L:A Bruket lillabruket.se L’occitane loccitane.com Laura Mercier lauramercier.com LF Markey thegreat-divide.com Linda Farrow lindafarrow.com Lipstick Queen lipstickqueen.com Lizzie Fortunato my-wardrobe.com Loeffler Randall loefflerrandall.com Longchamp longchamp.com Lucy Folk matchesfashion.com M Mac maccosmetics.co.uk Maison Francis Kurkdjian liberty.co.uk Malin + Goetz malinandgoetz.com Maria Black net-a-porter.com Mother of Pearl matchesfashion.com MOXHAM moxhamstore.com Muji muji.eu N Nars cosmetics narscosmetics.co.uk Nicole Farhi nicolefarhi.com Noble Macmillan noblemacmillan.com Noel Stewart lovehats.com Nude spacenk.com

P Paperways thefoxandstar.co.uk Paul & Joe paulandjoe.com Pedro García pedrogarcia.com Penelope Chilvers penelopechilvers.com Persy persy.co.uk Petit Bateau petit-bateau.co.uk Preen by Thornton Bregazzi net-a-porter.com Princesse Tam Tam princessetamtam.co.uk Prism prismlondon.com Pum Pum Socks pumpumsocks.com Pyrrha pyrrha.com R Rimowa selfridges.com Rodin oliolusso.com Roksanda Ilincic net-a-porter.com S Saucony saucony.co.uk See by ChloÉ net-a-porter.com Seeso thefoxandstar.co.uk Smashbox smashbox.co.uk Suno net-a-porter.com Susanne Kaufmann net-a-porter.com T Tanya Taylor shoplesnouvelles.com Ted Baker Luggage johnlewis.com This Works thisworks.com Tibi tibi.com Toga net-a-porter.com Tom Ford selfridges.com Tommy Hilfiger tommy.com Topshop topshop.com U Urbanears urbanears.com V Vivetta avenue32.com Y Yolke yolke.co.uk

O OriGinal & Mineral net-a-porter.com Ole Henriksen olehenriksen.com Osman brownsfashion.com

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Chlöe Howl

Dr. Martens, Portable Speaker, Chocolate Digestives, Calvin Klein Obsession Perfume, Bottle Opener Fiery 19-year-old Chlöe Howl has made quite the splash in the music industry with her meaty ‘steak and kidney’ pop. Her journey to fame has been a relatively quick one, although she claims that her singing career really started while she was careening around the house as a toddler trying to get her voice heard above her rather large family of girls. Chlöe left school at 16 to pursue music, but the first time any of her friends heard her sing was when she posted a track online in 2012. Within a year of launching her career she was putting together songs with Eg White, who co-wrote and produced Adele’s Chasing Pavements, and was nominated for the Critics’ Choice Award at the Brits. Somehow between all this and her crazy tour schedule, which includes Glastonbury this summer, we managed to pin her down to ask her what she likes to takes with her, although secretly we were really hoping she’d say us. chloehowl.com

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