Wakarusa Brewery

LIKE A PROPERLY PREPARED IPA, THE WAKARUSA BREWERY OPENS EXACTLY WHEN IT’S GOOD AND READY

story by SETH JONES

photography by JASON DAILEY

When John Randtke, co-owner of Wakarusa Brewery, needs the brewmaster, he doesn’t call or text. He steps outside and shouts, “James!” Within a few minutes, James Hightree, brewer and the other coowner of Wakarusa Brewery, walks through the door at 710 Main Street. Randtke and Hightree define the phrase “locally owned and operated”—the two both live within shouting distance of the brewery, as do three of the four bartenders. (The fourth, a Eudora native, now lives in Lawrence.)

This dream of a hyper-local brewery was some five years in the making. Discover Eudora magazine sat down with Hightree and Randtke back in July of 2013 when they were hopeful for a winter 2013 grand opening. But just like brewing beer, some recipes take longer than others, and the brewery was able to open in November 2017.

“There was a curveball every month or two,” says Randtke about the process of converting the old antique shop into a brewery. “The water quality was the first one—we had to buy a reverse osmosis system. That was an extra $6,000.”

Hightree clarifies that while Eudora water is good to drink, it is not ideal for brewing certain kinds of beers, hence the need for the system.

A tour of Wakarusa Brewery’s back of house reveals there is nothing old in this former antique mall, aside from the vintage beer taps from Teller’s Restaurant that they hope to install someday. The stainless steel pipes, the fermenter and the thermal recovery tank—something that saves costs and reduces carbon emission—all look shiny and expensive.

Hightree and Randtke have learned that brewing is not an inexpensive business venture. In dollars there’s the equivalent of a nice sports utility vehicle in brewing equipment hidden away in the back of the building. But that’s what it takes to make good beer and mead—and to win over a public that has become increasingly knowledgeable about what it likes and wants in a micro-brewery beer.

Business has been “great,” Randtke says, noting the local community has been supportive of the new business. “The community support has been better than I expected,” Randtke says. “Those first few weeks, we’d count up the till and get pretty excited.”

Open every Thursday, Friday and Saturday, Wakarusa Brewery was filled to capacity regularly those first few months. Now that the newness has worn off a little, the crowds aren’t quite as large, but they are steady and allow the brewery to continue its growth.

A recent shipment of 16 additional kegs will increase the brewery’s total to 60 and counting, allowing Hightree to age some beers longer and have more inventory available. He’s also excited to unveil some new beers, such as an Irish red and a lager. At the same time, he wants there to be four staple beers always available, something the extra kegs will help with.

“It’s just an amazing feeling to be open, after so many years of working on it,” Randtke says while sipping a freshly brewed cup of … coffee (because, being brewers and bar owners, the owners particularly know the value of moderation).

Hightree’s favorite thing about being open is mingling and talking to new customers. That might surprise some who know him for his quiet demeanor.

“I’m honestly not a people person; normally I’m the person in the corner not talking to anyone,” Hightree says. “It’s more that I want my beer to be better, the drive of that is what makes me a people person. Every time I come in here and talk to a new customer, which happens often, I like it when they’re honest and tell me when it’s good. And I can tell when they say it’s good but they don’t really mean that. But most people are genuine, and I like that.”

Randtke calls Wakarusa Brewery “his second home,” and is happy to share that home with friends and family. “When all my future in-laws came in and enjoyed themselves, that was amazing. This is my second home, we pretty much lived in here for five years. To have friends and family and the community come in and enjoy themselves is a great feeling.”

A big part of Wakarusa Brewery’s business is in growlers—32-ounce jugs that can be purchased to take home. Brewmaster James Hightree offers his favorite beer choices when filling a growler for special occasions.

When you’re planning: A steak dinner Then fill the growler with: Oatmeal Stout Because: “It’s smooth, with a little chocolate to it. It’s roasty … like a normal stout, but smoother.”

When you’re planning: To watch the Royals game Then fill the growler with: Raspberry Mead Because: “It’s perfect for a warm, sunny day. It’s not too syrupy; it’s crisp and light and it’s carbonated. Carbonation is great on a sunny day.”

When you’re planning: A house party Then fill the growler with: Northeast IPA Because: “It’s extremely hoppy but not extremely bitter. I try to pull out the flavors of the hop. It’s citrusy, floral, all those good things about the hop. It’s unique … it’s a style of beer that is becoming more popular by the day.”