Sonoran Soul

RISING STAR CHEF RENE ANDRADE AND HIS TEAM HARNESS THE POWER OF FIRE TO SERVE UP A MASTERCLASS IN SONORAN-STYLE GRILLING AT PHOENIX’S HOTTEST NEW RESTAURANT, BACANORA.

Story by KRISTIN SCHARKEY Photographs by THOMAS J. STORY

There’s a special kind of magic that happens when Rene Andrade begins to sling RIBEYE 46-day, dry-aged ribeye over open flames Serve Bacanora’s melt-in-your-mouth on a handbuilt steel grill. The smell of mes- showstopper alongside its bone. quite and rendered fat fills the dining room SERVES 4 at Bacanora, and so begins an artfully maneuvered dance with fire and smoke. The Phoenix chef relies on rolled pieces of cardboard to burn slowly, building up the 4–5 lb. bone-in ribeye, dry-aged 36–46 days Salt, to taste Salsa Verde (see recipe on opposite wood like a tent and allowing the fire to take shape—a “spark of home,” An- page) drade says. All the while, he wears a chain from his grandmother, a reminder of Salsa Tatemada (see recipe on page the person who taught him how to show love through food—puro amor. 55)

Andrade’s reputation is building, too. Wild chiltepin peppers, grown on his 15 flour tortillas family's ranch in Sonora, Mexico, have received much fanfare. Patrons flock to 3 limes, halved his bright pink dining room for a taste of his wood-fired food. Bacanora was named a James Beard finalist for the Best New Restaurant of 2022 (winners 1. Remove ribeye from the refrigerator hadn’t been announced as of press time). The chef, though, doesn’t seem to let about 45 minutes before cooking, it go to his head. His staff remains a tight-knit group of friends who are more and season heavily on both sides like family. While Adrian Galindo mixes drinks behind the bar with equal parts with salt. flair and banter, Roberto Centeno works the grill, throwing corn right onto the 2. On a wood-fired or charcoal grill, hot coals. It’s about control, Centeno says of the skilled craft of minding these cook the steak over high, direct heat, types of temperatures. There’s a fine line between a piece of meat—or a hand- about about 6 minutes per side. ful of vegetables—getting burned versus beautifully charred. 3. Move the steak to an indirect-heat

When we visit Bacanora, Andrade has two priorities: sharing his food, and zone and continue grilling, again 6 making sure he gives credit where credit is due. We’re no sooner done with a minutes per side. Remove to a cutfeast of ribeye, smoked bluefin toro, and—the unexpected star of the show, fri- ting board and let rest about 15 joles de la olla—when we’re quickly whisked off to nearby Pizzeria Bianco, a legendary wood-fired Phoenix joint led by renowned chef Chris Bianco, to meet the rest of his team. Andrade first cooked with Bianco (a James Beard winner who is also nominated for Outstanding Restaurateur this year) at a food festival 4. minutes. Remove the bone and slice lengthwise into about 10 ½-inch thick pieces. Serve on a large platter with salsas, tortillas, and limes. in Sonora—their bond forged while grilling nearly three dozen chickens—and has considered him a mentor ever since.

Bacanora’s grill is made in part from the same type of brick found in Bianco’s pizza ovens. Organic grain is used in both Bianco's pizzas and the flour tortillas that are made for mopping up every last drop of beans at Bacanora. “You learn things and burn things,” Bianco says of his illustrious career, and relationship with the younger chef. “Not everybody needs to burn.” Culinary magic doesn’t happen by accident, and Andrade is tapping into a precise formula with gusto, and tireless dedication. (“We never have days off,” he only half-jokes.) The wisdom of the past keeps him grounded while he keeps his eyes on the horizon— ready to help bring the “new kids” of Phoenix’s burgeoning gastronomic scene into the fold. His dishes, of course, complete the equation. Perhaps Bianco says it best: Andrade excels at an art that is “impossible to fake”—marrying “technique and humility, provenance and place.”

Pro Tip: The Bacanora team likes to add melty, cheesy quesadillas. Simply throw your favorite cheese onto a flour tortilla, fold it up, then cook it on the grill, about 3 minutes each side.

Salsa Verde

MAKES 2 QTS.

35 tomatillos, peeled ½ white onion, roughly chopped 4 green onions 6 serrano chiles ½ qt. lime juice 3 habanero chiles 3 bunches cilantro 4 small avocados

1. Put all ingredients except the cilantro and avocados in a large mixing bowl. Using a hand blender, mix until wellblended, about 10 minutes.

2. Roughly chop cilantro and cut avocado into cubes. Add avocados and cilantro to bowl.

Using the hand blender, mix another 10 minutes.

Pro Tip: Chef Andrade prefers mesquite for his open-fire grill. If you can’t get pieces of wood, try mesquite charcoal.

POLLO ASADO

Take one bite of Bacanora’s grilled chicken, and you probably won’t believe it’s only seasoned with salt. But that’s exactly how the team prepares their poultry. Let’s just say, they let the grilling do the talking. SERVES 4-6

Perfect Pairing

We selected the ideal bottle to serve with this menu, and it’s available to members of our wine club. Sign up for quarterly deliveries of the best wines in the West at sunset.com/wineclub

1 whole chicken, about 4–5 lbs. 2 Tbsp. sea salt Golden-Brown Delicious

Potatoes (see recipe on opposite page) Frijoles de la Olla (see recipe on opposite page) 12 flour tortillas Salsa Verde (see recipe on previous page) Salsa Tatemada (see recipe on next page) 1. Spatchcock the chicken by cutting out the backbone with kitchen shears. Season all over with salt, and let rest at room temperature for 30 minutes while you heat up the grill. 2. Over a wood or charcoal fire, grill the chicken skin side up over direct heat for about 15 minutes, then flip it and grill skin side down another 10. (Make sure you move your

chicken around because the fat will start rendering, which can affect the flames.) Remove it from the grill and let it rest 6–7 minutes, then return it to the grill, skin side down, over indirect heat and let it cook until the skin is crispy. 3. Serve whole chicken breasts, thighs, wings, and drumsticks with potatoes, frijoles de la olla, salsas, and warm tortillas.

THE WINE:

2019 Paydirt Going For Broke Red Wine, California

TASTING NOTES:

The glass uncovers a generous ruby core with aromas led by black cherry, mission plum, and lovely spice. The mouthfeel is juicy and balanced by excellent acidity.

WHY IT WORKS:

Elegance and power with a lush profile make it the ultimate red blend for Bacanora’s wood-fired Sonoran dishes.

There’s a fine line between a burn and a beautiful char.

FRIJOLES DE LA OLLA

These “beans in a pot” are packed full of flavor thanks to charred habaneros, onion, and garlic. SERVES 4–6

2 qts. dried pinto beans, soaked overnight and drained 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 white onion, diced 1 cup chopped garlic 4 habanero chiles, diced 2 Tbsp. dried Mexican oregano 2 ½ Tbsp. sea salt

1. In a large pot, bring ½ gallon water to a boil. Lower it to a simmer, then add the pinto beans and cook about 45 minutes to 1 hour. Drain water into a bowl and set aside. Set beans aside. 2. In another large pot, add oil over high heat, then add onion and garlic, stirring occasionally until almost burned, about 5 minutes. 3. Add the habanero and cook, about 4 minutes. Add oregano and cook for 1 minute. 4. Add the beans and bean water, and cook about 10–15 minutes. The liquid will begin to thicken. Lower heat and simmer until mixture reaches desired thickness. (Andrade likes it

“soupy.”) Season with salt and serve.

Salsa Tatemada

MAKES 2 QTS.

6 whole beefsteak tomatoes 1½ onions 24 large green

Anaheim chiles Salt, to taste

1. On a wood-fired or charcoal grill, cook tomatoes, onion, and chiles over direct heat until charred on all sides, about 10–12 minutes total. Set tomatoes and onion aside to cool.

2. Place chiles in a fire-safe bowl, cover with foil, and set it near indirect heat to steam, about 10 minutes.

3. Transfer chiles to a mixing bowl and let cool.

Once they can be handled, remove the chile skin.

4. Thinly slice the chiles and julienne the onion, then combine in the bowl. Crush the tomatoes with your hands, then add them to the bowl, mix, and season with salt.

GOLDEN-BROWN DELICIOUS POTATOES

These crispy, coin-size potatoes reach perfection when they’re cooked until golden brown. They benefit from a generous amount of saltwater. Serve them alongside poultry or seafood—a versatile side dish for pulpo or pollo. SERVES 4-6

2 cups sea salt 4 russet potatoes ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 15 garlic cloves, shaved 1 cup crumbled queso fresco 1. Bring 4 qts. water and salt to a low simmer in a large pot. Add potatoes and simmer until cooked through, 20–25 minutes. Remove, and refrigerate them, uncovered, until cold. 2. Once potatoes are chilled, cut them crosswise into ¼-inch slices. Place a skillet over medium heat, and when it’s hot, add ¼ cup olive oil. Add the potato slices and cook until potatoes are crispy and “golden-brown delicious,” as chef says, about 4 minutes per side. Remove and set aside. 3. Lower the heat and add garlic to cook, about 4–5 minutes. 4. Place potatoes on a plate, and pour garlic and remaining olive oil over them. Top with queso fresco.

ELOTE

Is there any better appetizer than sweet, crunchy Mexican street corn? This version boasts two cremas. SERVES 4–6

4 ears sweet corn, shucked 2 cups Mexican crema ½ cup Valentina Salsa Picante Juice of 4 limes Sea salt, to taste 1 cup grated cotija Cayenne pepper or smoked paprika (optional)

1. Warm up a large pot of salted water over low heat. Add corn and cook, about 15 minutes. Remove and let drain. 2. On a wood-fired or charcoal grill, nestle corn directly into the coals and grill on all sides until it reaches the level of char you desire. (Andrade likes it “burned, baby.”) 3. Remove from heat and allow to cool slightly. 4. Mix 1 cup crema, salsa, and the juice of 2 limes in a small bowl, plus salt to taste. In a second small bowl, mix remaining crema, lime juice, and salt to taste. 5. To serve, shave kernels off one side of the corn and set aside. Place the cob kernel-less side down on a plate. Sprinkle kernels over top, then drizzle the first crema, then the second. Sprinkle with the grated cotija and sea salt.

JAMAICA SMASH

MAKES 1 COCKTAIL

2 bunches mint 1½ oz. mezcal ¾ oz. hibiscus syrup ¾ oz. grapefruit juice ¾ oz. lemon juice 2 dashes Scrappy’s Black Lemon

Bitters

HIBISCUS SYRUP 1 qt. dried jamaica leaves 4 qt. white granulated sugar

1. To make the hibiscus syrup: Boil 2 qt. water, dried jamaica leaves, and sugar in a large pot over high heat.

Lower to a simmer then stir until sugar is completely dissolved. Strain into a sealable container. Refrigerate. 2. To make the cocktail: Muddle one mint spring in the bottom of a glass.

Set aside. Combine all ingredients except mint into a shaker tin. Add ice and shake until frost starts to form on the outside, about 5-10 seconds.

Strain through a Hawthorne strainer into the glass. Add fresh ice and muddled mint. Garnish with fresh mint.

CON FUEGO

You won’t look at your next nightcap the same after these shots of bacanora, a Mexican agave spirit, for which the restaurant is named. Bartender Adrian Galindo allows the grill to take center stage: Mesquite coals (plus Mexican cane sugar and cinnamon) add flair to this presentation. SERVES 2

3 oz. bacanora shots 2 orange slices 1 small piece piloncillo 2cinnamon sticks, plus 1 for garnish 3 cupsmesquite coals

1. Pour 1.5 oz. bacanora into two shot glasses. 2. Using tongs, place hot mesquite coals onto a ceramic serving plate.

Top with cinnamon sticks and grate piloncillo over the top. (It will start to smoke.) 3. Serve with orange slices with grate cinnamon and piloncillo over top.