HOLIDAY MEALS FROM CHEFS

CHEF

Chipotle Sweet Potatoes P.32

Traditional A Hummus P. 33 Delicata HO LIDAY Squash With Burrata P. 29 CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: VARTAN ABGARYAN; STEPHANIE YOUNG/© SPICE TRIBE; COURTESY OF HOTEL JACKSON

Roti Tacos With Paneer P. 30 Imoni P. 32

TAKES Long Beans With Pork Belly P. 31

HO LIDAY

What do the best chefs and restaurateurs in the West really cook for their families come the holidays? Delicious food with heart and soul and meaning. Whether it’s Mom’s mole or a cheffy upgrade on gratin, these celebratory dishes are straight from their hearths to yours.

PAUL C. REILLY, beast + bottle, Coperta, Denver

Potatoes au Gratin with leeks and horseradish

“A great alternative to boring mashed potatoes. Perfect with Christmas dinner where the trend has shifted away from turkey to larger beef roasts.”

See recipe at sunset.com

Mitsuko’s Crabmeat Korroke (Croquette)

We use ketchup and mustard to flavor the mashed potato, fold in cooked sweet crab, and lastly add raw white onions for texture. We eat it with tonkatsu sauce, pickled ginger, and a cabbage slaw.

1 lb Yukon Gold potatoes (about 4 medium-sized) ¼ cup whole milk 1 tsp kosher salt (or to taste) ½ tsp ground black pepper (or to taste) 2 tsp ketchup ½ tsp Dijon-style mustard ½ small white onion, sliced very thinly 8 oz canned real lump crabmeat 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 egg 1 Tbsp water 1.5 cups panko (Japanese breadcrumbs) 2 cups canola oil (or other vegetable oil) Cabbage slaw Japanese pickled ginger (pink) Tonkatsu sauce

CASEY FELTON, Banh Oui, Los Angeles “My mom is originally from Tokyo, but married a Westerner (Gaijin) and moved to California when she was 27. I love this dish because it’s Japanese but has Western influences. Historically made with béchamel, my family’s recipe uses potato. It’s crispy, soft, and filling, but most importantly was fun to make as a kid with my mom.”

1. Boil potatoes until tender. Once cool, remove skin. Mash with food mill or hand mixer. Add milk and mix until incorporated.

Don’t over-mix, or potatoes will become glutinous. 2. Gently mix in salt, pepper, ketchup, mustard, onion and crabmeat. 3. Shake out flour on a rimmed plate to prep for shaping croquets. 4. Combine egg and water for eggwash in small bowl. 5. Spread panko on second rimmed plate. 6. Form crab-potato mixture into large potato-shaped croquette (about 3 oz). Should make approximately 8 croquettes. 7. Roll each croquette through flour, then egg wash, then panko and place on a separate plate. 8. In a 10-inch sauté pan, add 2 cups canola oil to create a fryereffect and bring to 325–350°F or until a sprinkle of panko sizzles. 9. Once oil is heated, add croquettes. Brown all sides. Remove and drain on paper towels. 10. Serve hot next to cabbage slaw and topped with tonkatsu sauce and pickled ginger.

TRENT BLODGETT,

Spice Tribe, San Francisco “The striped skin of my favorite squash adds to the beauty of this dish. Soft burrata, crunchy pistachios, and sweet squash are enlivened by just a little salt, pepper, and coriander. An easy go-to dish for a celebration.“

Delicata Squash with Burrata and Toasted Pistachios

The technique of blooming the spices and pistachios in the oil not only adds a wonderful crunchy texture but also creates an infused oil that acts as the dressing. Using fresh spices makes all the difference.

2 delicata squash, cut in half lengthwise, seeded and sliced into ½-inch thick slices 8 oz burrata ¹/₃ cup raw, unsalted pistachios, shelled 1 Tbsp coriander seed to taste pink Peruvian salt to taste Spice Tribe Late Harvest Black

Peppercorns 3 Tbsp olive oil Italian flat leaf parsley leaves for garnish

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Preheat the oven to 425°F. Place squash slices into a mixing bowl and toss with 1 Tbsp olive oil and salt; place on a sheet tray in a single layer. Roast until the edges are well browned and the flesh is soft, about 15 minutes. While squash is in the oven, combine pistachios and olive oil and sauté over medium heat, stirring frequently until fragrant and nutty, about 3 minutes. Add coriander seeds and sauté while continuing to move the pan so they don’t burn. Cook

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until the coriander is golden brown and remove from heat. Season with salt and pepper. Place burrata in the middle of a ceramic platter. Remove squash from oven and arrange around the burrata. Pour the spiced pistachio oil over the burrata and delicata squash. Garnish with parsley leaves and serve immediately.

NOTE: If burrata isn’t available, a high quality fresh mozzarella or even fresh ricotta, drained well, will work in a pinch. The coarse grind of pink Peruvian salt gives a nice texture. Late Harvest Black Peppercorns have a fruity spicy flavor, adding another dimension to the dish. Be careful not to walk away from the pan when the nuts and seeds are toasting in the oil, as they can burn quickly.

MARIO CHRISTERNA,

The Paramount, Boyle Heights, CA “This is an homage to my Mexican roots and my Indian family through marriage. It has just enough Indian and Mexican that both grandmothers can be in the kitchen using their skills, but simple enough that my two daughters can also help. Felices Fiestas a todos!“

Roti Tacos

The holidays are a great time to bring everyone together, all cultures, faiths, nationalities and create something new. It is so joyful to combine foods and traditions. Here’s our kind of taco night.

ROTI

1 cup wheat flour 1 tsp ghee or olive oil salt to taste

POBLANO SALSA

4 poblanos, seeded and stems removed 1 onion, quartered 6 garlic cloves, peeled 8 tomatillos, husks removed ½ bunch cilantro 1 Tbsp olive oil salt and pepper to taste

TACO

paneer, cut to ½ inch thick and about 3 inches wide seasonal veggies, sautéed 2 rmedium ed potatoes, julienned and pan-fried ghee salt and pepper to taste

POBLANO SALSA

1. Preheat oven to 450°F. 2. On a sheet tray, drizzle poblanos, onions, garlic, and tomatillos with olive oil, and toss with a pinch of salt and pepper. Bake for 30 minutes. 3. Remove from oven, and transfer poblanos to a dish and cover with plastic wrap. Once cooled, peel off the skin. One secret to maintain flavor is not run the poblanos in water, so keep it dry. 4. Place all ingredients, along with cilantro in a blender. Blend at a low level then increase.

ROTI

1. Combine wheat flour, a little ghee, a little water, and salt.

Knead for about 10 minutes. On a surface dusted with flour knead for about 10 minutes, or until the dough is soft and pliable and doesn’t stick to your fingers. Add more flour to the work surface, divide dough into 7 or 8 balls, and press out into circles. 2. Place a sauté pan on medium heat and add oil. Once heated (just before a smoking point) add the roti. At home we like to make it a little crispy, like taqueros do with tortillas. Once it reaches the desired crispiness, remove it with tongs and hold it over the open flame of a gas burner. The goal is to get that layer of char for a smoky flavor.

PANEER

• Wow, I love this cheese for its flavor and versatility. Place sauté pan on high heat. Once it comes to a smoking point add a little oil or ghee. Sear as if you were going to sear a nice steak. Texture is what we are looking for here.

And of course, flavor!

VEGGIES

• My family worked together to get different flavor profiles.Medium diced carrots. Purple cauliflower florets. Asparagus sliced into rounds. Plus potatoes. It’s like a

California burrito but in an open face. 1. Set a sauté pan over mediumhigh heat, and add olive oil. Before it comes to a smoking point add the potatoes. 2. Here is where the pan fry technique kicks in. When you add the potatoes, cook unstirred for about 5 minutes then flip them and repeat. The secret here is to get the texture without burning them.

With these potatoes you want to serve them right away to avoid sogginess. This is a super tip.

GARNISHES

• As a family we went with pomegranate seeds (pomegranate is a very spiritual fruit) to adds texture, acid and color. • Cilantro, both leaves and stems.

Cilantro stems have lots of flavor and also add texture. • Edible Marigold flowers. This flower is auspicious for Mexicans and Indians. For Mexicans, it is used during the holiday Dia de los Muertos, and for Indians it is commonly used to decorate the space for weddings.

CARLOTTA FLORES, El Charro, Tucson

Enchiladas Sonorenses

“We use fresh masa in Sonoran flat enchiladas topped with salsa de chile colorado.”

See recipe at sunset.com

Long Beans with Pork Belly

Pork and green beans are a perfect pairing to pick up the flavors of the hot, sweet, and savory flavors of the sauce and the char of the wok.

1 lb long beans or string beans, trimmed, cut into 3-inch pieces 4 star anise pods ½ tsp whole fennel seed 1 tsp whole coriander seed ½ tsp whole cumin seed ½ tsp whole red Sichuan peppercorns ¼ cup peanut oil ¾ lb pork belly, diced 3 Tbsp minced garlic 3 Tbsp minced shallot or yellow onion 2 tsp minced ginger 2 tsp minced serrano pepper (optional) 2 Tbsp Shaoxing wine soy sauce, to taste mirin, to taste 1 Tbsp black bean sauce white sugar, to taste fish sauce, to taste ground white pepper, to taste 2 tsp toasted sesame oil

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Bring large pot of water to a rolling boil. Season with salt until salty like the sea. Add beans and blanch 1 minute, or until just barely cooked through. If you are cooking beans immediately afterwards, blanch, drain, and let cool. If you are cooking beans hours or days in advance, blanch, shock in ice water, drain, and reserve in refrigerator. Grind all spices in spice grinder

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until coarsely ground. Heat wok, large cast iron skillet, or other heavy-bottomed pan on high heat until smoking. Add oil and let heat 30 seconds. Add pork belly with spices and sauté 2–3 minutes, or until lightly browned and outsides are beginning to crisp up. Add Shaoxing wine. If using a wok, drizzle on outer rims for it to sizzle and caramelize in the process. Add a splash of soy sauce, following a similar pattern as the Shaoxing wine. 8. Move pork belly aside in wok.

Add garlic, shallot, ginger, and serrano peppers to center of wok. Sauté in peanut oil and pork belly fat 1–2 minutes until fragrant, then stir to combine with pork belly. 9. Add beans and bean sauce to wok. Sauté another 3–4 minutes, or until beans are cooked through, while adjusting to taste with soy sauce, mirin, sugar, fish sauce, white pepper. 10. Once beans are cooked through, remove from heat and stir in sesame oil.

JENNY DORSEY,

Studio ATAO, Los Angeles “My husband always requests this for the holidays because it’s rather timeconsuming to make. The long beans must be wok-fried first, then stir-fried again with pork. It’s absolutely delicious, and has become a special marker of the holiday season.”

Mole de Pollo Maria Cruz

CARLOS CRUZ-SANTOS,

China Poblano, Las Vegas “For the holidays I love cooking a chicken mole my mother makes from the state of San Luis Potosi, Mexico. Unlike most traditional moles that use chocolate to sweeten the dish, this one is a bright red mole that is both full of flavor and extra spicy because of the variety of chiles and spices added to the dish.”

See recipe at sunset.com

Imoni

This is a fun and simple dish that Saito san still makes with his family to this day.

1 lb taro 1 package konnyaku noodles 1 leek 1 pound thinly sliced beef ¼ cup soy sauce ¼ cup sake 1 Tbsp sugar

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Start with washing and cutting the taro into large bite size pieces. Thinly slice the leeks. Cut the konnyaku noodles into bite size pieces. Boil 6 cups water in a large cast iron pot. Add the taro and cook until tender, then add the beef. Add sugar, sake, and soy sauce to the boiling water. Add the leek and konnyaku. Cook until leeks and konnyaku noodles are tender. Adjust to taste and enjoy!

Chipotle Roasted Sweet Potatoes With Labneh

This is an easy recipe that my family loves me to make every year. This serves two but can be scaled up.

2 chipotle peppers from a can 2 Tbsp pomegranate molasses, plus 1 tsp for garnish 1 garlic clove ¼ cup lemon juice 1 Tbsp red wine vinegar 1 cup olive oil 1 sweet potato Lebni (see recipe below) Pomegranate seeds, for garnish KIMINOBU SAITO, Sushi Note, Sherman Oaks, CA “Imoni is made and eaten outdoors on an open fire. It’s typically served at the start of autumn by the river bank with a large gathering of friends and family. In Japan you can go to a festival known as Imoni Kai. This dish features Yamagata’s famous Yonezawa beef and taro.”

FOR LEBNI

1 cup Greek-style yogurt 2 cloves garlic, chopped 1 lemon, zested and juiced 2 Tbsp olive oil 1 tsp salt

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2. Combine chipotle peppers, pomegranate molasses, garlic, lemon juice, vinegar, and olive oil in a blender and blend until emulsified into a vinaigrette. Preheat oven to 375°F. Peel and cut the sweet potatoes into large chunks. In a large bowl toss with 1/3 of the dressing. Place in one layer on a parchment-lined tray (do not crowd) and roast for

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4. 30–40 minutes or until tender. Remove from oven and let cool. Meanwhile, make the lebni: In a medium bowl combine yogurt, garlic, lemon juice and zest, olive oil, and salt, and stir to combine. To assemble: Warm the potatoes in the oven and toss with remainder of the dressing. Spoon a dollop of the lebni on the side to garnish. Drizzle with pomegranate molasses and pomegranate seeds to finish.

Traditional Hummus

Homemade hummus is easy to make and so much better than store bought. Since it isn’t always possible to soak and cook chickpeas beforehand, canned work just fine. Serve with pita wedges.

1 15 oz. can of chickpeas, drained, rinsed, liquid reserved juice of 1 lemon 1 clove of garlic ½ cup of tahini (if separated, stir well before measuring) 1 tsp salt ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper 3 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling Za’atar spice mix

SADEK DARWICHE,

Hotel Jackson and Figs, Jackson, WY “Lebanese love any occasion to celebrate, and despite religious and cultural diversity, Christmas is a major event regardless of religious background. We’ll serve our family’s hummus recipe next to the traditional English turkey.”

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Pinch the skins from each of the chickpeas; using two fingers they slip right off. Place chickpeas and garlic in the food processor and gently pulse to create a very coarse consistency. Add the tahini, lemon juice, salt, and pepper to the bowl of the food processor. Pulse again gently to combine. With the machine running, drizzle the olive oil until the hummus begins to get smooth. To get the desired consistency, add the reserved chickpea liquid. The more liquid the smoother the hummus. Sprinkle with za’atar and a drizzle of olive oil and serve.

VARTAN ABGARYAN,

Yours Truly and Nueva, Los Angeles

“The tart and creamy lebni balances the dish’s sweetness and spice”

HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE Looking for some great gifts to give this season? Start here.

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Garrison Brothers Distillery

makes the finest, hand-crafted bourbon whiskey money can buy. It’s always been a great holiday gift for friends and family, or yourself. Purchase online garrisonbros.com/shop

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FEAST There’s a new meal kit service in town. Recently launched in LA, Simple Feast serves up great-tasting, chef-designed menus that just happen to be made of plants. Each week, get three delicious, mise-en-place dinners made with locally sourced ingredients delivered to your doorstep. Starting at $98 (shipping included), simplefeast.com HYDRATE The LifeStraw Home glass water filter pitcher boasts an impressive filtration performance including protection against bacteria, parasites, microplastics, lead, mercury, PFAS and much more. We love the elegant design and even better every purchase also gives safe water to a child in need. $54.95, lifestraw.com

AL FRESCO Get the perfect backpacking kitchen this holiday season for just $59.95.

The Essential Trail

Kit is created for camping novices or experienced outdoor chefs. Invented in

Sweden, and hand- crafted in Europe, this kit easily transports everything needed to cook a backcountry or car-side hot meal. Available at primus.us. (Fuel not Included) SAVOR Every year, Tillamook releases a new line-up of vintages, including a 3, 4, 5, 6 and 10-year Maker’s Reserve Aged Cheddars. Tillamook pairs the highest-quality milk and a recipe that’s been delivering for decades. Add proprietary cultures, cheese making savvy and time. What you get will have been worth the wait. $13, tillamook.com