The Fashion Book The World of Fashion Magazines Colin Myers
Credits WHAT IS A FASHION MAGAZINE
How to Do an Editorial Fashion Photography Spread
http://www.oxforddictionaries.com/us/definition/american_english/fashion-magazine
A Post By: Darren Rowse
THE FIRST FASHION MAGAZINE
http://digital-photography-school.com/how-to-do-an-editorial-fashion-photography-spread/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)
Careers in the Fashion Magazine Industry
INTERNATIONAL FASHION MAGAZINES http://stylecaster.com/international-fashion-magazines/
by Lindsey Thompson, Demand Media Google http://work.chron.com/careers-fashion-magazine-industry-11253.html
MEN’S FASHION MAGAZINES
10 Entry-Level Jobs In The Fashion Industry
http://www.complex.com/style/2012/03/10-mens-high-fashion-magazines-you-should-know/1
BY JIAN DELEON
GRAPHIC DESIGNER IN FASHION
Jian DeLeon is a former editor at Complex.
http://www.aiga.org/medalist-alexeybrodovitch/
http://www.complex.com/style/2012/01/10-entry-level-jobs-in-the-fashion-industry/
Alexey Brodovitch
MAGAZINES AND THEIR ADVERTISERS
WHAT IS A FASHION EDITORIAL
Alexandra
http://www.sheebamagazine.com/read/what-is-editorial-fashion-photography/
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http://searchingforstyle.com/2010/04/fashion-101-magazines-and-their-advertisers-2/
Credits | 5
Table of Contents
8 pg. 18 pg. 30 pg. 40 pg. 50 pg. 58 pg. 70 pg. 82 pg.
What is a Fashion Magazine Internatinal Fashion Magazines Alexander Brodovitich Men's Fashion Magazines Fashion Editorials The Makings of an Editorial Careers in Fashion Magazines Advertising in Fashion
What is a Fashion Magazine A fashion magazine is devoted to fashion, especially the latest styles of clothes, accessories. These magazines specialize in fashion and the presentation of advertisements by various corportations that sponsor these brands and their products.
Spring color fashion spread by New York & Co.
CHAPTER 1
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The first of fashion Early years In 1892, Arthur Turnure founded Vogue as a weekly newspaper in the United States, sponsored by Kristoffer Wright; the first issue was published on December 17 of that year, with a cover price of 10 cents (equivalent to $2.63 in 2016). Turnure's intention was to create a publication that celebrated the "ceremonial side of life"; one that "attracts the sage as well as debutante, men of affairs as well as the belle." From its inception, the magazine targeted the new New York aristocracy, establishing social norms in a country that did not value class and ceremony as much as England or France. The magazine at this time was primarily concerned with fashion, with coverage of sports and social affairs included for its male readership. CondĂŠ Nast CondĂŠ Montrose Nast bought Vogue in 1905 one year before Turnure's death and gradually grew the publication. He changed it to a bi-weekly magazine and also started Vogue overseas in the 1910s. After first visiting Britain in 1916, he started Vogue there, followed by Vogue in Spain, and then Vogue in Italy and Vogue in France in 1920, where the magazine was well received. The magazine's number of publications and profit increased dramatically under Nast's management. By 1911, theVogue brand had garnered a reputation that it continues to maintain, aiming for the elite audience and expanding into the coverage of select weddings. Dress turtle neck advertisement by H&M.
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What is a Fashion Magazine | 11
Fash & Mark color block editorial.
Monochrome Color blocking fashion editorials with model Mona Ermishina, model Karolina Babczynzka.
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What is a Fashion Magazine | 13
If I was aware of a girl being ill on a photo shoot I wouldn’t allow that shoot to go ahead, or if a girl had an eating disorder I would not shoot her. Anna Wintour 1988
Anna Wintour became editor-in-chief of American Vogue
The contrast of Wintour's vision with that of her predeces-
May 2013, marked the one-year anniversary of a healthy
in July 1988. Noted for her trademark bob cut and sun-
sors was noted as striking by observers, both critics and
body initiative that was signed by the magazine's interna-
glasses, Wintour sought to revitalize the brand by making
defenders. Amanda Fortini, fashion and style contributor
tional editors—the initiative represents a commitment from
it younger and more approachable; she directed the focus
for Slate, argues that her policy has been beneficial for
the editors to promote positive body images within the
towards new and accessible concepts of "fashion" for a
Vogue: When Wintour was appointed head of Vogue, Grace
content of Vogue's numerous editions. Australian editor
wider audience. Wintour's influence allowed the magazine
Mirabella had been editor in chief for 17 years, and the
Edwina McCann explained: In the magazine we're moving
to maintain its high circulation, while staff discovered new
magazine had grown complacent, coasting along in what
away from those very young, very thin girls. A year down
trends that a broader audience could conceivably afford.
one journalist derisively called "its beige years".
the track, we ask ourselves what can Vogue do about it?
For example, the inaugural cover of the magazine under Wintour's editorship featured a three-quarter-length photograph of Michaela Bercu, an Israeli super model, wearing a bejeweled Christian Lacroix jacket and a pair of jeans, a departure from her predecessors' tendency to portray a woman's face alone; according to the Times, this gave "greater importance to both her clothing and her body". As fashion editor, Grace Coddington wrote in her memoirs, the cover "endorsed a democratic new high/low attitude to dressing, added some youthful but sophisticated raciness, and garnished it with a dash of confident energy and drive that implied getting somewhere fast. It was quintessential Anna." Wintour continues to be
Beige was the color Mirabella had used to paint over the red walls in Diana Vreeland's office, and the metaphor was apt: The magazine had become boring. Among Condé Nast executives, there was worry that the grand dame of fashion
And an issue like this [June 2013 issue] is what we can do about it. If I was aware of a girl being ill on a photo shoot I wouldn't allow that shoot to go ahead, or if a girl had an eating disorder I would not shoot her.
publications was losing ground to upstart Elle, which in just
The Australian edition's June 2013 issue was entitled
three years had reached a paid circulation of 851,000 to
the "Body Issue" and featured articles on exercise and
Vogue 's stagnant 1.2 million. And so Condé Nast publisher
nutrition, as well as a diverse range of models. New
Si Newhouse brought in the 38-year-old Wintour, who
York-based Australian plus-size model Robyn Lawley,
through editor-in-chief positions at British Vogue and House
previously featured on the cover of Vogue Italia, also
& Garden, had become known not only for her cutting-edge
appeared in a swimwear shoot for the June issue.
visual sense, but also for her ability to radically revamp a magazine to shake things up.
American Vogue's editor-in-chief to this day.
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What is a Fashion Magazine | 15
The name Vogue means "style" in French. Vogue was described by book critic Caroline Weber in a December 2006 edition of The New York Times as "the world's most influential fashion magazine." The publication claims to reach 11 million readers in the US and 12.5 million internationally. Furthermore, Wintour was described as one of the most powerful figures in fashion.
Cover feature from Vogue Portugal, June 2015
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International Fashion Magazines America is not the only country that has a major interest in fashion. In fact most consider Paris, France to be the fashion capitol of the world. Here is are some of some more popular international fashion magazines.
CHAPTER 2
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International Publications 9 13 1. Stellar Magazine
( Ireland )
2. Russh Magazine
( Australia )
3. Stylist Magazine
( United Kingdom )
4. Wonderland Magazine
( United Kingdom )
5. Oyster Magazine
( Australia )
6. Lucire Magazine
( New Zealand )
7. The Love Magazine
( United Kingdom )
8. Dazed and Confused Magazine
10 3 47 8 14 1 11
2
5 12
6
( United Kingdom )
9. Glow Magazine
( Canada )
10. I-D Magazine
( United Kingdom )
11. Grazia Magazine
( Italy )
12. Frankie Magazine
( Australia )
13. Lou Lou Magazine
( Canada )
14. InSytle Uk Magazine
( United Kingdom )
International Fashion Magazines | 21
International Publications 1. STELLAR Magazine Ireland’s freshest, fiercest, most fabulous women’s glossy magazine. Packed with all the affordable fashion and beauty must-haves you’d expect from your favorite magazine.
2. RUSSH Magazine Based in Australia, RUSSH is an independent fashion magazine showcasing in fashion, art, music and film through originally produced editorial and photography.
STELLAR Magazine
RUSSH Magazine
3. Stylist Magazine Based in United Kingdom, Launched in October 2009.Stylist is a free weekly fashion magazine for smart, successful, sophisticated women.
4. Wonderland Magazine Based In: United Kingdom Wonderland is an international, independently published magazine offering a unique perspective on the best new and established talent across all popular culture: fashion, film, music and art.
Stylist Magazine
Wonderland Magazine
International Fashion Magazines | 23
5. Oyster Magazine Based in Australia, Oyster is an international fashion, beauty, music, and pop culture title published biannually and distributed globally.
6. Lucire Magazine Based in New Zealand, originally based on the internet, Lucire branched out into a monthly print edition based in New Zealand. They report on fashion, beauty, travel etc.
Oyster Magazine
7. The Love Magazine Based in United Kingdom, A Conde Nast publication, LOVE MAGAZINE has featured some celebrities such as Miley Cyrus, Elle Fanning, and Cara Delevingne. LOVE doesn't follow fashion - it sets fashion's agenda.
The Love Magazine
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Lucire Magazine
8. Dazed and Confused
10. i-D Magazine
Based in United Kingdom, an independent British fashion, culture and arts magazine, Dazed and Confused provides
Based in United Kingdom, A consistent source of inspiration in fashion culture, i-D Magazine is dedicated to the street
all original photography, fashion and editorial.
style of punk-era London in 1980.
Dazed and Confused
i-D Magazine
9. Glow Magazine
11. Grazia Magazine
Based in Canada, Glow is considered to be Canada's Beauty Expert. From product reviews to health and fitness, Glow's
Grazia Magazine is one of the world’s biggest fashion magazines; which is released from majority of world’s fashion and celebrity regions including India. Magazine is covering all aspects of lifestyle, healt and fashion.
got you covered for all your health and beauty needs.
Glow Magazine
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Grazia Magazine
International Fashion Magazine | 27
12. Frankie Magazine Based in Australia, A national bi-monthly magazine, Frankie is aimed at women (and men) dedicated to celebrating music, fashion, art, craft, photography, and pop culture’s quirkier aspects.
13. LouLou Magazine Based in Canada,LOULOU is Canada’s shopping magazine. Packed with expert advice, amazing deals and unique finds, LOULOU delivers the hottest fashion, beauty and lifestyle buys on the Canadian market.
FrankieMagazine
14. InStyle UK Based in United Kingdom, InStyle UK, started in 2002, is a monthly glossy magazine focusing on celebrity style and how readers can obtain those styles.
International Fashion Magazine | 29
LOU LOU Magazine
InStyle UK Magazine
Alexy Brodovitch Alexey Brodovitch is known foremost for his work on the american fashion-magazine Harper's bazaar. Born in Ogolitchi, Russia in 1898 in an aristocratic and wealthy family, Brodovitch's youth was marked by the bolshevik revolution. Being a loyal supporter of the tsar, he became first lieutenant in the czar's White Army. In 1920 he fled to Paris as an exile from the October Revolution. Like many other emigrĂŠs whom had gained wealth in Russia, he ended up being both poor and workless. For the first time in his life he had to work to gain money. Living in Montparnasse, he found himself in a community of russian artists, which lead to his wish to become a painter. He obtained a job as a painter of stage set for Diaghilev's Ballets Russes. Diaghilev's approach to design inspired him to move towards the more commercial arts and influenced him in his ideas on the lack of boundaries between different arts.
CHAPTER 3
Graphic designer Alexey Brodovitch, one of the first well known art directors for fashion magazines.
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Alexey Brodovitch | 31
Alexey Brodovitch is remembered today as the art director
primal style of picture-taking that became the, “dominant
of Harper’s Bazaar magazine for nearly a quarter of a
style of photographic practice in the 1950s.
century. But the volatile Russian emigré’s influence was much broader and more complex than his long tenure at a fashion magazine might suggest. He played a crucial role in introducing into the United States a radically simplified, “modern” graphic design style forged in Europe in the 1920s from an amalgam of vanguard movements in art and design.
In addition, Brodovitch is virtually the model for the modern magazine art director. He did not simply arrange photographs, illustrations and type on the page; he took an active role in conceiving and commissioning all forms of graphic art, and he specialized in discovering and in New York was a very young Irving Penn. Leslie Gill, Richard Avedon and Hiro are among the other photographers whose work Brodovitch
Through his teaching, he created a generation of designers
nurtured during his long career. So great was his impact on
sympathetic to his belief in the primacy of visual fresh-
the editorial image of Harper’s Bazaar that he achieved
ness and immediacy. Fascinated with photography, he
celebrity status; the film Funny Face, for example, which
made it the backbone of modern magazine design, and
starred Fred Astaire as a photographer much like Avedon,
he fostered the development of an expressionistic, almost
named its art-director character “Dovitch.”
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Haper's Bazaar cover from 1960.
He came to the United States in 1930 to start a department
At Harper's Bazaar, where he was art director from 1934
By the 1950's, white space was the hallmark of the Brodovitch
of advertising (later known as the Philadelphia College
to 1958, Brodovitch used the work of such European artists
style. Models in Parisian gowns and American sports clothes
of Art). There he trained students in the fundamentals of
as Man Ray, Salvador Dali, and A.M. Cassandre, as well as
“floated� on the page, surrounded by white backgrounds,
European design, while embarking on numerous freelance
photographers Bill Brandt, Brasai, and Henri Cartier-Bresson.
while headlines and type took on an ethereal presence. At his
illustration assignments in Philadelphia and New York.
He was the first to give assignments to emigrĂŠ photographers
best, Brodovitch was able to create an illusion of elegance
In 1934 Carmel Snow, the new editor of Harper's Bazaar,
Lisette Model and Robert Frank. Starting with a splashy, yet
from the merest hint of materiality. Clothes were presented
saw his design work and immediately hired him to be its art
sometimes overly self-conscious style largely borrowed from
not as pieces of fabric cut in singular ways, but as signs of
director. It was the beginning of a collaboration that was to
his early counterpart at Vogue, Dr. M.F. Agha (AIGA medalist,
a fashionable life.
revolutionize both fashion and magazine design, and that
1957), he gradually refined his page layouts to the point of
catapulted Bazaar past its arch-rival, Vogue.
utter simplicity.
Besides his achievements at Bazaar, Brodovitch's legacy as a publications designer includes the short-lived but influential magazine Portfolio, three issues of which were published in 1949 and 1950. A flashy, innovative quarterly aimed at the design profession, Portfolio contained profusely
At his best, Brodovitch was able to create an illusion of elegance from the merest hint of materiality.
illustrated feature on Alexander Calder, Charles Eames, Paul Rand, Saul Steinberg and others, as well as articles surveying the graphic variations of cattle brands and shopping bags. As art editor, Brodovitch helped conceive the magazine's contents, as well as creating its distinct design with the help of die-cuts, transparent pages, multi-page fold outs and other elaborate (and expensive) graphic devices.
Andy Grundberg
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Alexey Brodovitch | 35
Alexey Brodovitch Finding Aid.
Brodovitch utilized the talents of
Harper’s Bazaar Cover July
many photographers while at HB,
1968
often changing between them without notice.
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Alexey Brodovitch | 37
Throughout his career, he continued to teach. His “Design Laboratory,” which focused variously on illustration, graphic design and photography and on occasion were offered under the auspices of the AIGA, provided a system of rigorous critiques for those who aspired to magazine work. As a teacher, Brodovitch was inspiring, though sometimes harsh and unrelenting. A student's worst offense was to present something Brodovitch found boring; at best, the hawk-faced Russian would pronounce a work “interesting.” Despite his unbending manner and lack of explicit critical standards—Brodovitch did not formulate a theory of
Even at the height of his powers, however, Brodovitch's personal life remained linked to loss and much disappointment. Andy Grundberg
design—many students under his tutelage discovered untapped creative reserves. Even at the height of his powers, however, Brodovitch's personal life remained linked to loss and disappointment. His family life was evidently unhappy. In addition, a series of house fires in the 1950s destroyed not only his country retreat but also his paintings, archives and library. In the 1960s after he left Harper's Bazaar, he continued to teach but did little design work. He died in 1971 in a small village in southern France where he had spent the last three years of his life. Today Brodovitch's legacy is remarkably rich. His layouts remain models of graphic intelligence and inspiration, even if seldom imitated, the artists, photographers and designers whose careers the image of his solidified ideals.
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Alexey Brodovitch | 39
Fashion for Gentlemen 8 Fashion Magazines for Men Let's face it, most guys are hesitant to embrace "fashion." The term itself has connotations of runways, make-up, and male models that act like Derek Zoolander. Yet, besides highlighting the really, really, ridiculously good-looking, there are some high-fashion publications worth checking out. Like any high art, fashion can be understood even better when you look past the spectacle and escapism. No, these respected editors don't expect you to parade around rocking a Dior blazer shirtless with heavy eye shadow, they do that sort of thing in order to bring a more artful side out of the well-designed clothing, and push it beyond the realm of boutiques and street style into a more surreal world.
CHAPTER 4
Photographer MICHAEL DWORNIK and fashion styilst LUIS RODRIGUEZ team up to create this mens fashion editorial for BROWN THOMAS.
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1. AnOther Man (England)
2. Vogue Hommes International (Paris)
From the founders of Dazed and Confused magazine, AnOther Man, is published
If you don't understand French, you might not be able to read whats going on inVogue Hommes International, but their stunning editorials easily cross the language barrier. You'll recognize countless faces because they shoot your favorite celebs in the best looks fresh from the runways.
by Jefferson Hack, which means it's got cool written all over it. Based in London, Fashion Director and lauded stylist Alister Mackie works a majority of the shoots, meaning you'll get a younger take and execution on how to incorporate high-fashion brands into your wardrobe.
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Fashion for Gentlemen | 43
3. Numero Homme (France)
4. Frequency
Now in its twenty-third issue, Numero Homme is the French answer to what menswear should be from season to season. Created by Elizabeth Dijan, who started Numero because she was "bored with magazines" in general, the mission to make
Based in Barcelona, Spain, this publication regularly enlists heavy-hitting stylists like David Vivirido, Fransesco Sourigues, and Michel Alcade, which might not be household names to you, but if you flip through the images of Hercules, you'd get mad familiar with their work.
printed content more engaging is echoed in the publication's male counterpart.
-
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Fashion for Gentlemen | 45
5. Grind (Japan)
6. Vogue Hommes (Japan)
Your one stop shop for everything cool happening in Japan, with fashion stories styled with sought-after streetwear brands like Sophnet and Uniform Experiment, with a dash of designer duds from Adam Kimmel and Enginnered Garments. This is a great resource to learn about all of the prominent Japanese
We had to mention Vogue Hommes Japan, for sheer editorial power's sake. You might not be able to wear a majority of these looks on public, but they make up for it with stunning pictures that really exhibit the talent of the incredibly creative Nicola Formichetti and super stylist Panos Yiapianis.
stylists, and some cool brands you might not know.
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Fashion for Gentlemen | 47
7. Fantastic Man (The Netherlands)
8. VMAN (United States)
Fantastic Man is published in Amsterdam and features editorials by Simon Foxton and Jodie Barnes, which means the fashion-cred is heavy, but the looks are wearable and desirable. The latest issue has a great read from ex-Jil Sander designer, Raf Simons, so
The "V" might stand for Visionaire, but you don't have to think hard about every editorial in this New York-based fashion resource. VMAN is the menswear-related offshot of V magazine. Its pages you'll find work from some of the fashion industry's most sought after talent.
along with the killer outfits, there's a good read or two.
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Fashion for Gentlemen | 49
Fashion Editorials First and most important editorial photography is for the purpose of publication magazines newspapers etc. editorial images are usually meant to accompany text and can cover a wide range of subjects editorials are used to illustrate a story article text or an idea within the context of a magazine or to embellish a certain theme visually it can be in any genre photojournalism, fashion, portrait, sports, landscape, editorial images of me also tell a story by themselves without any written word or maybe a company by short topic or title of an intended story.
CHAPTER 5
"Oriental Beauty" photography by Marie B채rsch model: Samira 50 | The Fashion Book
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The Aishti Foundation is a 40,000 sq foot exhibition space
Usually they are fashion images that tell a story or suggest
in Jal el-Dib, a short drive up the Mediterranean coast from
that there is a backstory to the photo there may also serve
downtown Beirut. The foundation building will showcase
as an photo essay to illustrate unwritten story in this case
works from SalamĂŠ's 2,000-strong collection as well as
creative editorial stories are born and they make several
a variety of high end luxury retail shops. To celebrate the
spreadsheets in a magazine. Fashion editorials are not
opening of The Foundation, Tony SalamĂŠ asked us to
about a turn of clothes.
conceptualize and design a campaign around the intersection of fashion and art, while also highlighting its location by the sea side. We also created an animated series of the campaign for Instagram and their social channels.
These editorials or more about the move and the situation of the garments would be worn in. In editorial photography clothes can become an illustrative mean to tell a fashion story or at least make it look like a fashion story but it is
This is what happens in fashion feel fashion editorial often
never limited to fashion.Editorial photography goes along
feature as full-page photographs on a particular theme or
with edgy concepts and does not tell a story in the tradi-
concept design a model or other single topic usually they
tional sense.
are fashion images.
creative direction by Jessica Walsh and Stephan SageMeister. Photography Erik Johannson.
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Fashion Editorials | 53
Not every editorial has to be outdoors on location or have a lot of props, some can be as simple as a gray or white backdrop. Sheeba Magazine
There may also be no story at all. It mixture of fashion lifestyle and location usually creates view was a motion and gives an impression of a story behind it. It makes viewers think and to take another look at it. If you know this can be achieved by untraditional lighting in tits model poses extreme make up and hair or certain shooting location, sometimes these strong visuals or what unite the series of shots. Editorials generally have a different wardrobe per page/spread and it also may have the whole wardrobe of a similar look for example the color red. Not every editorial has to be outdoors on location or have a lot of props some can be as simple as a gray backdrop. Shooting a model in front of a seamless great backdrop can be very editorial depending on the lighting clothes make up etc. Magazines also include beauty editorials that focus on make up hair and/or accessories. Usually fashion editorial or highly styled they give a lot of creative freedom that is controlled by a photographer.
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Fashion Editorials | 55
On the other hand editorial defines usage in that style editorial fashion came about when the people of advertising world decided to sell product in a less straightforward way. In this way, focus follows less on the actual product but more on the telling of the story as a means to sell the item. The fact is that editorial images are not advertisements editorials come along with credit line and sell the story. Advertising images are always anonymous and created to sell a particular product or collection of products. Commonly editorials are assigned by editors who did take the story idea or theme of the magazine for the particular issue. Editorial art directors like smart sharp images containing straight lines and clean composition. The difference with shooting for magazines is that the images often take up the entire page and need bleed room. It simply needs giving
Hana Jirickova for Beymen Spring/
extra room along the sides by the way magazine covers are
Summer 2015 Campaign
also editorials. Generally speaking editorial fashion photography has a very broad meaning and there is no absolute definition of it. Editorials may illustrate one printed word or may give the reader a perspective of what the whole concept is about. Editorial photography gives artists a lot of freedom and creativity and interpretation to show what words cannot communicate.
Hana Jirickova for Beymen Spring/
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Summer 2015 Campaign
Fashion Editorials | 57
The Makings of an Editorial The Brief. When you are commissioned to do a fashion photography spread, the idea or theme would normally be given by the editor of the magazine for a particular issue. The brief may simply be one word or a whole concept. You discuss the brief with the art director or editor as to how it should be interpreted. At this stage, you determine the feel you want the photographs to have, such as, do you want the viewer to be excited, or calm, to feel sad or happy, orshould the photographs have a great deal of colours or should they be muted. You decide what the brief means to you and how it would best describe your meaning within a fashion photograph. All the possibilities of the outcomes depend on the available budget.
CHAPTER 6
Vogue's Behind-the-Scenes Video of the BeyoncĂŠ Knowles Photoshoot Vogue-Beyonce
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The Makings of and Editorial | 59
The Stylist. The stylist is the person who gets the clothes
Model Casting. Casting of the model is most essential as
and she contributes greatly to the development of the
the main factor that determines the feel of the pictures,
idea. Her work is to acquire the latest possible fashion
no matter where and what clothes she will be wearing.
clothes that are suitable for the brief. The magazine
The model defines who you are as a photographer and
would want the stylist to acquire clothes from famous
has a person. You are making a statement if you choose
brand names, as it would have more prestige in the eyes
a voluptuous or thin model, tall or short intellectual or not
of its readers. Personally, I do not really mind what brands
so intellectual. When a photographer chooses a model,
the clothes are as long as they fit the brief and more
he is deciding on how he wants to be judge as a person.
importantly, that they enhance on how I want the photo-
Choosing your model is like choosing your friends,
graph to look like.
because they define you.
Behind the scenes of Capitol Styles Men's photo shoot.
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The Makings of and Editorial | 61
Makeup & Hair. It is important to give a clear guidance as to what you want to the make-up artist and hair stylist. You must brief them on the project and ask for their contributions. A good conversation with the make-up artist and hair stylist is absolutely essential, and try and bring them into your project in the early development stages of the process. Preparations. Once all has been decided and a date has been set, it is important to get the necessary permissions and bookings. For example, if you are shooting locations, then you need the permission from the owner. Book the model from the model agency. Book all the crew, such as make-up artist, hair stylist and if needed, assistants. Make sure the stylist has all she needs and booked for the day. Food and water are very essential because nobody likes to work when they are hungry. Music also helps to set the mood, so if you have some speakers to bring them along an plug them to your computer.
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Behind the scenes of Hearst Magazines International New York City fashion shoot.
The Makings of and Editorial | 63
Art Direction. There is normally one set of clothes outfit
not just to get the best look or pose of the model, but also
per page. So for a 8 page (either single page or double
something unique to the concept at play. To guide the
page) fashion photography spread, normally requires eight
model through a journey, where the feelings and emotions
set of outfits and one different location per outfit. This is
related to the brief are explored. Often, you may not have
the normal practice but it varies depending on the require-
much time to get to know your model, so you need to find
ments and circumstances.
out very quickly what they are like, such as their fears and
While taking the photograph, you have to look at the clothes, the location, the model, the lighting and arrange all these variables for to your liking. Ask the stylist, make-
likes, their attitude towards their work and modeling in general. It is your job to then work from that and guide them to their potential in terms of acting and modeling.
up artist and hair stylist to look at their particular area and
Crew. Keep the crew informed on the time schedule and
ensure that the model looks her best while the photograph
gently push them to finish their task. Everyone must have a
is being taken. I normally look at the model’s face for the
deadline as to when their task must be finished. Make sure
expression that I want, so it is difficult to keep an eye on
that everyone has a good environment to work with and
everything else, such as the clothes not tuck in properly or
your attitude must set the atmosphere for the set.
the hair style has gone of. It is important to have your crew focused on their job, even after they have made the model.
Darren Rowse
The set could become crowed. There is the whole team, plus the clothes’ designer, friends, family, agents, pass-
Model Direction. You must be able to direct the model to
ersby, etc might decide to come by the set at one time or
the brief. The model has an infinite number of body move-
another. It is your task to keep the shoot progressing at an
ments and facial expressions. A photographer’s job is
orderly manner.
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A photographer’s job is not just to get the best look or pose of the model, but also something unique to the concept at play.
The Makings of an Editorial | 65
Processing. Once the shots have been taken, you will need to process them from raw files to tiff files. The colour temperature, exposure compensation and contrast are some of the processes that take place at this stage. Often, the fashion photographer hands over to the editor/re-touchers all the processed files. However, it is important that the photographer participates in all the processes as it will ensure the best results. Retouching. Professional re-touchers and graphic designers will carry out the final processes that are required for the magazine. Page Layout. The sequence and the layout of the shoot will be decided by the page designer and the editor but the input of the photographer is very important as it ensures that his/her thinking comes across. Do not forget that a fashion photography spread is a collaboration with many people. It is team work and the photographer, although he plays an important part in it, depends on many people.
Before/After Fashion Photography Retouching by Gracevik Retouch
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Before/After Fashion Photography
Before/After Fashion Photography
Retouching by Gracevik Retouch
Retouching by Gracevik Retouch
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Careers in Fashion Magazines Many models dream of gracing the cover of a major fashion magazine, including publications like “Vogue,” “Elle” and “Glamour.” For those interested in fashion without the credentials of a model, numerous other jobs exist in the fashion magazine industry, including photographers, writers and editors. Potential fashionistas can find careers in the fashion magazine industry all across the United States, especially in U.S. fashion capitals like New York City, Chicago and Los Angeles.
CHAPTER 7 Fashion designers reviewing sketes for a project.
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Management. Each magazine employs a management staff to the hands of consumers each month. Fashion magazine management staffs include top positions like editor-in-chief, who oversees the entire publication, assigns jobs and plans each issue. The advertising director runs the advertising department, helping bring in advertisers for each issue and generating ad sales. Other management positions with a fashion magazine can include photography directors, marketing directors, styling directors and executive editors. Staff Members. Rounding out the positions at a fashion magazine include a number of staff member positions. Staff member positions include writers and editors, who create and edit the content for each issue. Some magazines also hire freelance writers, who are not part of the permanent staff but submit articles on an as-needed basis. Other staff member positions include advertising sales, layout assistants and Web designers, as most fashion magazines also have an online presence.
This fashion designer is constructing a garment for a major fashion show in fall.
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Models. The most well-known fashion magazine career choice, modeling makes up a large part of any fashion magazine. The modeling industry typically refers to models who work for fashion magazines and other fashion publications as editorial models. Fashion magazines use editorial models to display clothing and accessories on the pages of the magazine as part of articles and special features. Models also do modeling work for the ads shown in fash-
Being a fashion magazine photographer is more than just taking good pictures. Lindsey Thompson
ion magazines. Typically, fashion magazines do not hire their own models, but use modeling agencies. In the past, fashion magazines only used tall and exceptionally thin models, but some fashion magazines like V now feature plus-size models. Photographers. One of the other well-known magazine positions, photographers also play a large role in a fashion magazine. Being a fashion magazine photographer is more than just taking good pictures, however. Fashion magazine photographers need to be creative and think outside of the box, be able to work with all different types of people and be willing to put in the time and effort that is a requirement to make it as a fashion magazine photographer. According to Fashion Net, fashion magazine photographers should also have good business skills to be able to successfully negotiate contracts and understand the ebb and flow of the fashion world. To land photography jobs with fashion magazines, photographers can submit their work to the publication directly, or they can use a photography agent like Management Artists' Organization to act as a go-between or liason.
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Entry-Level Jobs In Fashion Magazines Behind all the glitz, glamour, and glossy pages of the fashion industry, there are thousands of people working their asses off to make it happen. Breaking into the industry is tough. Not only is it extremely competitive, but many people have no idea where to start. Working in fashion may seem like a great idea, but what do you do if you aren't completely aware of the kinds of jobs you're qualified for. Like any other industry, there's a ladder to climb, and there are dues to be paid. But everyone has to start somewhere. Here are 10 Entry-Level Jobs in The Fashion Industry, along with a look at how much each job pays*, and a few tips for how to make it.
Sales/Brand Representative Estimated Salary (in NYC): $59,000 Where to Apply: Fashion Jobs Central, Style Careers How to Make It: Sales is about talking that talk, so knowing when to speak and when to shut up is an essential skill. Having a genuine interest in brands and fashion news will help. Keep up with blogs and style magazines. Sales representatives get a firsthand look at new samples at showrooms and meet with buyers from all over to get the clothes in stores. Also, they work on the marketing side of things and meet with editors and bloggers so they
The clothing stores are closely related to fashion magazines. This is where your experience begins.
can preview new collections months before they hit stores. Primary responsiblities include pitching the xproducts to boutiques and press, tracking samples, and following up on orders from clients.
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Personal Assistant
Editorial Assistant
Estimated Salary (in NYC): $27,000
Estimated Salary (in NYC): $28,000
Where to Apply: Fabjob.com, Personal-Assistants.com
Where to Apply: Mediabistro, Journalism Jobs
How to Make It: You gotta be completely dedicated and
How to Make It: Be a dick about grammar and punctuation.
attentive to what your boss needs (within reason of course,
Read magazines, books, and websites constantly (twitter
you're running errands, not turning tricks). Know how to
doesn't count). Cultivate a network of contacts at public
multi-task really well and have a talent for scheduling—and
relations agencies and brands so you can pitch your own
always able to make things happen, especially the unrealis-
stories. Dream of working in publishing? You're going to
tic demands of your boss.
need a few internships under your belt, and if you're lucky,
Designers and other fashion executives like high-up editors don't have time to run errands and do all the things normal people do — like pick up dry cleaning, make dinner reservations, or book flights. That's where you come in. Your job is to be highly organized, efficient, field calls, meetings, and
you'll land an editorial assistant position. No, you won't be making coffee every morning, but you will get to pore over copy and look out for small details like typos, punctuation errors, and factchecking. You might even get a couple of bylines for online articles or blurbs in the magazine.
be extremely punctual. You'll probably start off getting paid
Keep in mind, most publications have two separate teams
in free swag with up-and-coming designers, but if you're
for web and print. So assistants can have very different
really good—or their career takes off—you can start making
responsibilities. For print, that could mean checking page
the big bucks. The downside? Say goodbye to your social life.
layouts for glaring errors and inaccuracies, while for the web
Being a good personal assistant means being reliable, 24/7.
that means looking over blog posts with an eagle eye for the same things, while occasionally even writing some of your own.
The "intern scene," from the movie about fashion magazines, The Devil
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Wears Prada.
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The absolute best way to get paid for what you'd do for free is well... do it for free, at first. Jian DeLeon
Design Assistant
Interns
Estimated Salary (in NYC): $42,000
Estimated Salary (in NYC): Unpaid, transportation and
Where to Apply: Fashion Jobs Central, Fashion.net, Style
lunch compensated.
Careers
Where to Apply: Mediabistro, Daily Fashion Jobs,
How to Make It: Get a degree in fashion design, Intern,
Fashionista.com
A lot. Be reliable, punctual, and willing to be overworked
How to Make It: Be motivated. Make yourself known to
and underpaid. Also, Have a genuine passion for your
other people in the office without trying too hard to please
boss' work.
everyone (you can't; you won't). Chill out, try to do good
No great designer works alone. As a design assistant, you
work and help out where you can, and constantly try to
won't be sketching the next collection, but you will help make sure it comes together. You'll get a firsthand look
you're there.
at fabrics, travel a lot to tradeshows, factories, and yes,
The absolute best way to get paid for what you'd do for
fashion week. But, you'll spend a lot of that time putting
free is well... do it for free, at first. There's horrible internships
in long hours of work: fitting models, tracking samples,
and there's great internships, but there's plenty of either.
and making sure the show or presentation goes on as
Whether your dream is working for a reputable fashion
smoothly as possible.
house, a luxury boutique, or a big magazine, nothing gives
It's a lot of work, but extremely rewarding if you have a
you a better look at what you're getting yourself into than
passion for it. It's a great feeling to hear positive feedback on a great show after months and months of work helping put a collection together. Who knows? Give it a few years,
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improve your skills and learn as much as you can while
an internship. You'll see how the business operates, get to network with the people there, and if you hustle hard enough, could even land yourself a job.
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Advertising in Fashion Magazines make their money from advertising, not cover price, and magazine advertising is very expensive, so there are only a handful of big brands who can afford it. Here’s a couple of examples of rates from media kits |(this information is available to the public, just find the “advertise” or “media kit” section of a magazine’s website, usually at the bottom of the homepage.) Brands rarely pay the listed prices, but this is a good indicator. US Vogue, 1 page, full colour, in the first quarter of the magazine: $151,000 (USD) US Elle, 1 page, full colour, in the first quarter of the magazine: $131,000 (USD) Flare, 1 page, full colour: $22,000 (CDN) Even if a small brand were to be able to pay $100K for a page, you can’t exactly pay for one page a year in Vogue, you need to advertise more regularly for it to have an impact. So basically, these huge advertising sums paid by the big brands of the fashion world pay for the glossy paper, the chauffered cars, and the expense accounts of the magazines and their staff. So how do the magazines give thanks? They feature the big brands products in their editorials. There’s a term called PR value which states that a one page feature of your brand
CHAPTER 8
Chance Girls, for Chanel new fragrence
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Chance. 2014
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in a magazine is worth four times the price of a one page
cater to their advertisers, therefore they are including as
advertisement. Its more valuable when the magazine says
many items of clothing or accessories as possible in each
“this is great” then when readers see an advertisement from
issue. The recession has meant magazines are desperate for
that brand. So that is why big brands pay the huge advertis-
advertising money, and are therefore filling their pages with
ing sums. And as a result, magazines need to talk about the
as much product as possible, rather than text and stories.
big brand’s products, whether they like them or not.
All of this means that all the mid-sized and small brands of
This figure may vary depending on a publication, but generally 90% of magazine content is advertiser’s product. Go ahead, check it out for yourself. If you see an ad for Louis Vuitton and Lancome cosmetics, its pretty much a guarantee that their products will be featured somewhere in the magazine. The magazines are forced to ensure that their advertisors products are well represented in each and every issue, even if it means featuring products that don’t fit in with a trend or story (magazines MAKE stories that fit in with the big brand’s products.)
the world are competing for 10% of magazine content, and that’s why being a PR for a small brand is pretty tough.I’d like to conclude by saying that when you read a magazine and they are telling you about the “must have” bag of the season or the best new wrinkle cream is, keep in mind that the writers are probably being forced to feature the brands that advertise in their publication. But I am definitely not saying you should all stop buying magazines, because we all want to see that new Louis Vuitton or Prada bag anyway, regardless of whether they paid to be there or not.
Also, have you noticed that there are less long, interesting feature articles, and more shopping pages recently? This is because magazines are under more pressure than ever to
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Mulberry advertisement. Spring 2014