Magazine for young vanguard fashion & art photography • www.superior-mag.com
# JANUARY 2013
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Fall / Winter 2013/14
InternatIonal FashIon trade show
January 2013
JANUARY 15–17, 2013
StAtioN-BeRliN luckenwalder Str. 4-6, 10963 Berlin www.premiumexhibitions.com -5-
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sUpERIoR mAGAzInE Lychener Strasse 76, 10437 Berlin www.superior-mag.com connection@superior-mag.com pUbLIshER
SUPERIOR Publishing UG (haftungsbeschränkt) Lychener Strasse 76, 10437 Berlin
chIEf EdItoR v.i.S.d.P. Tom Felber / tom@superior-mag.com photoGRAphy dIREctoR Marc Huth / marc@superior-mag.com fAshIon dIREctoR Simon Heeger / simon@superior-mag.com ARt dIREctoR Jesse Benjamin / jesse@superior-mag.com EdItoRIAL dEpARtmEnt editor@superior-mag.com AdVERtIsInG advertising@superior-mag.com pR mAnAGEmEnt press@superior-mag.com Superior Magazine accepts no liability for any unsolicited material whatsoever. Opinions contained in the editorial content are those of the contributors and not necessarily those of the publisher of Superior Magazine. Despite careful control Superior Magazine accepts no liability for the content of external links. Any reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited
contRIbUtoRs Edgar Berg, Elena Bobrowski, Frank Grimm, Kay Smith, Lauretta Suter, Louis Vigant, Maximilian vom Hofe, Natalia Madejska, Sasha Lebedeva
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#  Editorial Dear readers, The new year is less than three weeks old and such a lot of things happened in our SUPERIOR world - all connected to Berlin Fashion Week. Of course our team of editors and photographers visited fashion shows, trade fairs and events, went backstage and looked behind the scenes. In our #SELECTION you find ten labels and events we especially liked. We started with our BLOGGERS' COLUMN. Masha Sedgwick, a Cologne based blogger, wrote her daily diary for our BLOG. With her column she adds a very personal element to our BLOG. After such a great start we will continue with the BLOGGERS' COLUMN ... And we established #followberlinfw by asking bloggers, stylists and photographers to post their Berlin Fashion Week photos at Instagram & Twitter. See the results on our Homepage. Although Berlin Fashion Week is an important part of this issue don't miss our nine wonderful fashion & beauty editorials. Enjoy our first 2013 issue .... Tom & Marc
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Issue November 2012
Editorial & Imprint -12-
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Selection
berlin fashion Week VAPORETTA
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Leandro Cano -26-
Sammler Berlin -28-
Sieger -32-
Barre Noire x Baby-G -38-
GREENshowroom -44-
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Augustin Teboul -48-
Marc Stone -50Premium 10th Anniversary Limited Edition -54-
A Degree Fahrenheit -56-
Berlin Fashion Week Diary by Robin Kater -60-
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Sasha Lebedeva »this is letting go« -76-
Maximilian vom Hofe »red&white« -88-
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COPYRIGHT 2012 © SPIKE LEE
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LE BOOK THE REfERENCE fOR fASHION, PHOTOGRAPHY, IMAGE-MAKING & PRODUCTION. 4 INTERNATIONAL COLLECTORS’ PRINT EDITIONS PER YEAR - NEW YORK, PARIS, LONDON, BERLIN LE BOOK.COM STAY TUNED...NEW WEBSITE WITH EDITORIALS, ADvERTISING CAMPAIGNS AND PORTfOLIOS. THE vERY BEST Of THE CREATIvE INDUSTRY, ALL IN ONE PLACE CONNECTIONS THE CUSTOM- MADE TRADESHOW fOR THE CREATIvE COMMUNITY – NEXT STOP: LA, PARIS, NEW YORK, BERLIN & LONDON
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NEW YORK 2012 “DO YOU KNOW?”
PHOTOGRAPHY SPIKE LEE EDITION ILLUSTRATION ART DIRECTION MAGAZINES
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WWW.LEBOOK.COM
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Elena Bobrowski » Synonyms for cold « -98-
Natalia Madejska »Candy Girl« -110-
Lauretta Suter »Hunter« -118-
Louis Vigant »Tales of the Moon« -128-
Edgar Berg »U49« -148-
Kay Smith »La neige et la nuite« -162-
Frank Grimm »The Bay« -172-
Brands -182-18-
January 2013 September 2012
THE NEW SUPERIOR BLOG discover the superior world of fashion & film connected to fashion
visit our
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MAGAZINE FOR YOUNG VANGUARD FASHION & ART PHOTOGRAPHY
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sELEctIon In JAnUARy #bERLIn fAshIon WEEK A/W 2013 Many thanks to the entire Berlin Fashion Week SUPERIOR team, especially to Annika, Elena, Marcel, Robin, Simon, Sophia and Stephanie.
Berlin Fashion Week at SUPERIOR BLOG
text elena schrĂ–der, marcel debonG, tom Felber photo robin kater
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FOLLOW BERLIN FASHION WEEK ON INSTAGRAM & TWITTER
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FOLLOWBERLINFW
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vaporetta bY isabella pikart
After creating initially a series of rings for the L’Histoire de Mimi Cri collection, Isabella Pikart, designer of vaporetta berlin, enlarged the collection with further models - earrings and a modular pendant system. Like a golden thread runs through all new jewellery pieces as well need for experimentation with form, surface feel, glaze, chromaticity and contrasts to reach new combinations and interpretations of materials gold and porcelain. The squares, which already are the basic geometric form of the rings, in the first part of the collection, now find themselves in new arrangements such as floral forms "Fleur", or the square or cube in a variable play of lines, surfaces or cubes alone or relative on to the other.
about VAPORETTA Berlin
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photo: JULIA KRÜGER
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leandro cano
Fitting for mercedes-benz Fashion week berlin a/w 2013 show "White souls are riding all over my thoughts. I, Azreal, the last radiant angel, brilliant white, offer them my hand to help them cross the White Gate to the brightest, heavenly kingdom of peace and melancholy." (Designer for Tomorrow winner Leandro Cano about his collection idea)
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interview
photo gallery
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sammler berlin Fashion meets Architecture SAMMLER BERLIN is an up-and-coming German fashion design label whose founder and creative mind is Rebecca Sammler, a 2011 graduate of Berlin’s prestigious "Universität der Künste". The fashion label‘s signature is a new ready-to-wear haute couture for the charismatic, self-aware woman true to an individual style and unpretentious glamour, evident in the new professional collection displayed in a purpose-built new showroom in the heart of Berlin‘s high end fashion district in Mulackstrasse. The collection combines the highest couture crafts with new textile technologies and utilizes only the best and finest materials. Specially designed patterns, prints and embroideries, including aluminium silk, plisse and lace create an interesting and exclusive juxtaposition of material and structure. All the pieces are exclusive and therefore limited, hand-made in Berlin with extraordinary attention to detail, and are custom-fitted for the individual client. Trademark pieces in fur and leather are a special feature of SAMMLER BERLIN but innovative and new processing methods, away from the old and dusty fur coat of the past, formulate a new and light chic.
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Anything is possible with the designer‘s respectful and responsible approach to the animal; she only uses fur and skin, such as lamb, goat and rabbit, that are side products of the food industry. Sustainability is also an important aspect of Rebecca Sammler‘s work; her clothes are made to last and her designs to endure the fast and furious ephemera of today‘s fashion industry. Her creations combine both, the concrete moment of time, as well as the quality and values of tradition and excellence in craftmanship. SAMMLER BERLIN is closing the circle between design and its realization with its new showroom which presents unique pieces in an exclusive atmosphere and one-of-a-kind architecture.
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SIEGER-ride onBikes – a stylish means of staying in shape on the way to work – are once again all the rage and represent a green, cost-efficient mode of transport. The remarkable turnaround in the bike’s image is further proof of the renaissance of traditional products and values. It’s therefore no wonder that Michael Sieger took inspiration from this development, and in particular from London bike race Tweed Run, to design the high-quality “Ride on” clothing collection – replete with exciting nods to British tradition, and rich mottled tones. Both the good old bicycle and trendy electric bikes are a great way of making urban exercise fun or getting into the fresh air on an adventure through the countryside. Michael Sieger, who lives in the German city of Münster, a place renowned for its love of cycling, knows this better than most. It’s a top-
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ic, however, that offers no shortage of exciting starting points when it comes to developing designs and details. The designer was particularly inspired by the Tweed Run, with its stylish, traditionally dressed participants. The collection doesn’t just feature bike motifs – such as on the scarfs, pochettes and in the lining of the tailor-made blazer – but also numerous references to the British way of life. These include the herringbone patterns on the suits, as well as the Union Jack and the classic Liberty-style floral patterns found on the ladies’ and gentlemen’s accessories. “Ride on” is about inspiring people to dress in style. Michael Sieger developed the collection with a message for self-assured individuals and those aspiring to be such: “ride on – stay true to yourself, believe in yourself.” SIEGER fashion is dedicated to all those who can identify with this ethos. Intense colours, bold combinations and eye-catching details are just as much at home here as the subliminal message sewn into the collars of the blazers: “Get dressed”.
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Tom from SUPERIOR Magazine talked to Timm S端ssbrich regarding his fashion show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Autumn/Winter 2013.
# Timm, you don't follow fast moving fashion-, colorand style-trends. Where do you get your inspirations from? I get my inspiration from the style on the street, from the spirit of time. I look at how the combine looks, which colors the people wear and - most importantwhat I like. When I start with my designs the music is always another important part for the inspiration process. Basically every new collection is the sequel of the last one. So you always know the first direction. It has to be wearable and fun. # Nevertheless, are there any designers who inspire you? There are always a few collections which I like but not a special designer which I prefer. Every designer will present an interesting collection one day but also very boring styles. The style of each is changing by the time. Regarding to the wearability and the style i prefer Balmain, Givenchy, Isabel Marant and Proenza Schouler. But our collection did not alike in any way (smiling). # Presenting your collection with dancing tattooed models at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin last time was unusual. Do you love to stand out from the crowd?
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The concept is very simple. I get an empty, small room and have to use it. I do my best with this room and I want to make something different than a simple presentation. That is why I do shows where everybody fell comfortable. The models are allowed to dance and the DJ plays is favourite music. It is not important to be different in comparison to the other designers because I think we are already different because of the colorful collection which are not typical for Berlin designers. I just want to have fun and don't try to make a perfect staging.
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# How did you find your label's name Barre Noire and what is the message behind this name? "Barre Noire" – it is a small mount peak in the Alps (3751 m) and it is opposite to the "Barre Blanche". I like that this black peak overtops other mountains. You can project it to the designer landscape here in Berlin. Also i have the name "Barre Blanche" as an option for a Jersey-Label or an accessory Label. # You founded Barre Noire in 2009 together with Aleida Roser, who left in 2010. How did that change the label? I am more open in my working process and the collection is 100% Timm. All processes are faster even the development of a collection. But you miss the second opinion or the common processing of a collection and the exchange of ideas. You are the only one who is responsible in all cases. There are pros and contras but I feel better alone. # How important is Berlin for your collection? And how do you see Berlin as a fashion city? Berlin is a very convenient basement. The rent is low price, material and the process of the production are also very low priced. In regular you are able to build a good network in a short time. Also the network in Berlin is very reliable but the city is not really a fashion city till now. Most Berlin people do not want to spend their money for fashion. There is no high value for fashion. Berlin people also like to wear Scandinavian labels more than Berlin design. The support is not very high and also the politics and economy could do more for the Berlin fashion. You get less backing. If you want to be successful you have to concentrate your focus on other countries. #
backstage photo gallery
What are your plans for 2013?
After my show I will sleep a lot and reflect about the show. I will try something new in other domains. There is happening a lot. Just one thing I am sure about it: I will concentrate on other countries ... Thank you for the interview. -42-
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Greenshowroom trade Fair & salonshow
green & ethical labels
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interview with MAGDALENA SCHAFFRIN
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Teboul
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marc stone Tom from SUPERIOR Magazine talked to Marc Stone regarding his fashion show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin A/W 2013.
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Marco, how did you start your fashion career?
I always felt attracted to design, but was starting as an autodidact. After two years of designing I attended a fashion-design-school. I also studied project management and management. With our AW2011 collection we immediately found a showroom in Italy that started to sell the collection to the stores worldwide. Due to surprisingly high demands, we decided to start selling in New York City and Berlin during Fashion Week as well. # You say that your label Marc Stone is not only a clothing brand but a concept and a total creative aesthetic world. What does that mean? Every collection has a story behind. When we start working on a collection we create a world the whole story is based on. We usually integrate an artist in the concept, creating a link between practical clothing and a sense of individuality. The Marc Stone customer strives for being an individual, seeking for clothing that is unique and wearable with style, he is a man that appreciates design, and thinks beyond. # You live and work in Zurich. How is the Swiss fashion market?
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Right now it is a really good time for the Swiss fashion market, as it is quickly growing with some designers that can be taken seriously - especially in the field of contemporary and avant-garde design. Mode Suisse and Mercedes-Benz Fashion Days Zurich are two big fashion events held here every year. In 2012 we participated in both and are becoming bigger and well known within the European fashion scene.
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# Where do you find inspiration for your work? I feel inspired by different elements and themes: architecture, contemporary art, movies, pop culture, industrial design, road trips, nature.
# Are there any further plans for 2013 you can already talk about?
This year starts so exciting! We are really proud to announce our big runway show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin and Premium # Tell us about your Autumn/Winter 2013 col- 2013. lection. Furthermore we are expanding our market to Marc Stone Autumn/Winter 2013- 2014 is a Asia and are planning to have many runway journey of introspection. The collection is a new shows, presentations, collaborations, as well as interpretation of Marc Stone in its purest form. celebrity dressing and fairs... all these upcomIn this collection Marc Stone launches finest ing events are what we’re focussed on right now. Italian hand-crafted accessories such as shoes, I personally think that it is a very exciting time belts and bags to create an eclectic look. for menswear! Thank you for the interview.
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pREmIUm
10th Anniversary limited edition
To mark the historic occasion, numerous PREMIUM brands have developed limited-edition collector’s items of the PREMIUM 10th Anniversary limited editions Collection from brands like adidas SLVR by Dirk Schönberger, B.Belt, Becksondergaard Cph, Duvetica, Elfcraft, Falke, Gabriele Frantzen, Johnstons Cashmere, Liebeskind, Montgomery, Philippe Modell, RPL Maison, Vain Luxuries, Warm-Me, and Zoe Karssen, amongst others. All of them are wellknown and successful labels on an international level, with brand philosophies and values of quality and design that have bolstered the PREMIUM concept throughout the years. The limited edition items are available for purchase in F95 The Fashion Store in very limited amounts. All proceeds from sales of these items at F95 are going to the charity projects PREMIUM has chosen to support in cooperation with betterplace.org.
interview with
ANITA & NORBERT TILLMANN
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edition details
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a deGree Fahrenheit
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Tom from SUPERIOR Magazine talked to Yu Amatsu regarding his fashion show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin A/W 2013.
# Yu Amatsu, following graduation from Tokyo Mode Gakuen you moved to New York in 2004 and came back to Japan in 2009. Why did you leave New York, one of the fashion capitals? I was chosen as one of the nominees for the Shinmai Creator's Project in Japan, which brought me a chance to show my collection at Japan Fashion Week in 2009. # You worked for fashion icons like Marc Jacobs and you won the grand prize for two consecutive years in the Gen Art International Design Competition. What do you expect from Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin?I was chosen as one of the nominees for the Shinmai Creator's Project in Japan, which brought me a chance to show my collection at Japan Fashion Week in 2009. By showing my collection in Berlin for the first time, I expect to attract new audience's attention and broaden my horizons through my experience while I am there.
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# Your label's name "A DEGREE FAHRENHEIT" is unusual. How did you find it and what is its meaning? While working in NY, people are living with the Fahrenheit, which is created based on the human's body temperature. Since all the designs are by me, the name "A DEGREE FAHRENHEIT" represents my collections are created upon my creativity at heart and warmth. # Where do you get your inspirations from? I get inspired by everything, including art, music, photos, etc. # Which Degree Fahrenheit will your Autumn/Winter 2013 collection have? And what's the story related to this? How would you characterize your Autumn/Winter 2013 collection? The theme for Autumn/Winter 2013 is 122° Fahrenheit (50° C) Heat of Reaction. When iron chemically reacts and becomes iron oxide, energy is released as a “heat of reaction.” When iron rusts, the generation of heat occurs in two ways. Fine particles of iron powder quickly oxidize generating heat for a short period of time. Coarse particles of iron powder slowly oxidize generating heat for a continuous period of time. Inspired by these two processes, “heat of reaction” is expressed through material and pattern technique to stimulate the imagination of viewers. This collection, inspired by powdery iron and iron oxide, will be presented by mainly using the color grey, bicolor, and color gradation. I would expect my audiences to get the warmth in my clothes through the show. # Last but not least, are there any projects for 2013 you can talk about? I am going to have an exhibition and sale in both Singapore and Saudi Arabia from February to the beginning of March. I will be back in Japan for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tokyo in March. Thank you for the interview.
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Berlin Fashion Week Diary by Robin Kater -60-
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this is letting go photography by sasha lebedeva styling by olia sadovska make-up by olia svarga hair by yaroslav rudakov model olimpia whitemustache & slava davydov @ kmodels special thanks to komoora workshop
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red & white photography by maximilian vom hofe styling by dietmar herbert make-up & hair by isabel peters model dalia @ model management assistenz mico cvijetic special thanks to KATJA / STUDIO 28
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SYNONYMS FOR COLD photography by elena bobrowski styling by ali nabi make-up & hair by Francesca viGliarolo model jakob thiaGo de braGa
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s h i r t vi n t age b o w t i e vi n t age h a t vi n t age s u n g l a s s e s vi n t age s u i t h . a . j e ss s ö n d e r g ud e v e j l e
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Fashion magazines? We’ve got a million free ones. Issuu.com
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TALES OF THE MOON photography by Louis Vignat concept and design by Louis Vignat and Atilla Fidan styling by Nina Byttebier make-up & hair by Lena Schleweis model Josefin Herrmann @ Seeds Management photo assistance by Jessice Sidenros special thanks to BAERCK -129-
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dress monKI coat stInE GoyA tights fALKE ring sAbRInA dEhoff earring VIbE hARsLof shoes stInE GoyA foulards VIntAGE coat Won hUndREd blouse 5pREVIEW top REALItystUdIo necklace sAbRInA dEhoff tights AmERIcAn AppAREL shoes chEAp mondAy
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January 2013
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January 2013
d r e s s m o n ki coat stine goya t i g h t s f alke r i n g s a b ri n a d e h o f f e a r r i n g vi b e h ar s l o f shoes stine goya f o u l a r d s vi n t age
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silk blouse WEEKdAy knit dress hEnRIK VIbsKoV shoes chEAp mondAy
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January 2013
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knit dress hEnRIK VIbsKoV shoes chEAp mondAy
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January 2013
s h i r t c h ea p m o n d a y c a m e l c o a t w o n h u n d re d
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onLInE
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January 2013
s h i r t c h ea p m o n d a y d i p d y e j e a n s c h ea p m o n d a y c a m e l c o a t w o n h u n d re d s h o e s c h ea p m o n d a y
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left top sAmsoE & sAmsoE skirt GUccI clutch REnÉ LEzARd tights GIVEnchy
right dress sAmsoE & sAmsoE gloves RoEcKEL shoes Q by pAsQUALE
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January 2013
U49
photography by edGar berG styling by cÄthe klein @ liGawest make-up & hair by anja schweihoFF @ liGawest assistant alexander marQuardt & justus ullrich models nadescha & nadine @ m4 models hamburG
making-of video
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onLInE
shirt
pAtRIzIA pEpE
s h i r t wu n d erwerk necklace mytho
onLInE
blouse sAmsoE & sAmsoE skirt dKny necklace styLIst oWn
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leather dress cos tights WoLfoRd clutch h&m
d r e s s b o s s b la c k blouson h&m
p a n t s wu n d erwerk shirt samsoe & samsoe jacket dna n e c k l a c e s t y li s t o w n
onLInE
left shirt pAtRIzIA pEpE pants sAmsoE & sAmsoE clutch zARA armlet styLIst oWn
right shirt pants shoes
WUndERWERK foRnARInA KURt GEIGER
onLInE
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January 2013
dress samsoe & samsoe necklace h&m g l o v e s t al b o t ru n h o f
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January 2013
left p a n t s gue s s s h i r t wu n d erwerk leatherjacket drykorn a n k l e b o o t s kur t geiger
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right p a n t s wu n d erwerk s h i r t s t re n e s s e j a c k e t b o s s o rga n ge n e c k l a c e s el f m a d e
onLInE
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January 2013
left skirt samsoe & samsoe g l o v e s t al b o t ru n h o f o v e r k n e e s gu c c i tights wolford necklace h&m
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right s h i r t wu n d erwerk p a n t s s t e f a n el a n k l e b o o t s kur t geiger e a r r i n g s m ar n i
onLInE
LA NEIGE ET LA NUIT photography by kaY smith styling by Gilles clarisse make-up by lila GuÉant @ b4 aGencY paris hair by antoine iter model aGathe @ crYstal model scarf mmmARGIELA earrings h&m / nEW LooK
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top pRomod scarf chLoÉ rings h&m bracelets pRomod
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January 2013
e a r r i n g s n ew l o o k rings h&m
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earrings mAnGo rings & necklace h&m shirt mAJE
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January 2013
earrings  mango
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earrings
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GAVILAnE VIntAGE
January 2013
s c a r f m m m argiela e a r r i n g s h & m / n ew l o o k
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earrings mAnGo rings h&m bracelet  h&m
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January 2013
vintagemango rings  h&m e a r r i n g s   gavila n e
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scarf LEVIs VIntAGE
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January 2013
THE BAY photography by Frank grimm @ www.ohlsson.de styling by Marcell Naubert @ www.bigoudi.de make-up & hair by richard wilkinson @ louisa artists assistant nic frechen models Pierre van der Merwe @ www.whynotmodels.com Sarah @ www.bossmodels.co.za special thanks to www.nomadprod.com
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January 2013
v e s t k o o kai s h o r t s g - sta r
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online
shirt dIEsEL JEAns swim shorts spEEdo
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January 2013
d r e s s f kk p u m p s c a s a d ei
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beanie pAtRIcK mohR t-shirt g-STAr
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January 2013
cap h&m
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t-shirt LEVIs -180swim shorts g-STAr
January 2013
bikini top naf naf l e o p a n t s liu j o s a n d a l s t o s c a b lue
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t a n k t o p p a t ri c k m o h r p a n t s p a t ri c k m o h r s h o e s g - sta r
online
#
brands 5Preview acne aleksandra Mironenko all saints aMerican aPParel anton belinskiy boss orange carin wester casadei cheaP Monday chloĂŠ cos diesel Jeans dkny dna drykorn
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falke fkk fornarina french connection g-star givenchy gucci h&M henrik vibskov hugo boss irina dzhus kilian kerner kookai kurt geiger la redoute levis liu Jo lolita leMPicka
January 2013
Mahrenholz Maison Martin Margiela Maje Malaikaraiss Mango Marco Polo Marni Monki Mytho Navyboot New Look Patrick Mohr Patrizia Pepe Paul & Joe Phil Petter Promod Reality Studio RenĂŠ Lezard Roeckl
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Sabrina Dehoff Samsoe & Samsoe Speedo Stefanel Stine Goya Talbot Runhof Topshop Tosca Blue Vibe Harslof Weekday Wolford Won Hundred YSL Zalando collection Zara
onLInE
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Magazine for young vanguard fashion & art photography • www.superior-mag.com
# fEbRUARy 2013
Magazine for young vanguard fashion & art photography • www.superior-mag.com
# mARch 2013
Magazine for young vanguard fashion & art photography • www.superior-mag.com
January 2013
# ApRIL 2013
onLInE
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January 2013
B ER LI N E 4 – 6 I 10 9 6 3 S S A TR S ER Com LU C K EN WA LD H I @ f9 5 S To R E. I 8 5 3 3 8 0 2 +4 9 ( 0 ) 3 0 4 R E. C o m W W W.f 9 5 S To RS m. o P EN IN G H o U AY 11 A .m . – 8 P. ID fR – AY D moN . m A .m . – 6 P. S AT U R D AY 11 -185-
Magazine for young vanguard fashion & art photography • www.superior-mag.com
anything goes
coming out on february 14th 2013
# fEbRUARy 2013