Magazine for young vanguard fashion & art photography • www.superior-mag.com
MAY 2014
# MAY 2014
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EXPLORE THE SUPERIOR SIGHT OF BERLIN DIGITAL
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SUPERIOR MAGAZINE Brunnenstrasse 191, 10119 Berlin www.superior-mag.com connection@superior-mag.com PUBLISHER
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# Editorial Dear readers, Every month, when we work on our digital issue, we are discussing one question: Should we have one theme that covers all editorials in the issue? And for our current SUPERIOR DIGITAL May issue again we say: No. We could ask for editorials under a certain theme but then we couldn’t publish a lot of wonderful editorials and that’s not our aim. Therefore the best is you discover the whole issue from the first to the last page and find out which editorials are your favorites. In this issue we also have an interview with the designer RAD HOURANI, the pioneer of unisex fashion. Enjoy SUPERIOR MAGAZINE May issue, best Tom, Marc & the whole SUPERIOR team
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Caren Detje »Jelena Is A White Star« -14-
Christoph Köstlin »Cheetah« -28-
Christine Lutz »Fe-Male« -44-
Katie Thomson »Star-Daze« -56-
Winterschildren »The Third Little Pig« -74-
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Frank Bar thold »Charlene« -100-
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Kathleen Clipper & Matt Gates »Capitol Couture« -116-
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TALK
Interview with Rad Hourani -66-
“Biker Couple, 1961”. Copyright © Dennis Hopper, Courtesy The Hopper Art Trust.
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claw ‐rings AND ‐I top DRIES VAN NOTEN bra YASMINE ESLAMI shorts CLUB MONACO leather belt KENZO ankle boots ALICE AND OLIVIA BY STANCEY BENDET
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BFW A/W 2014
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# INTERVIEW
RAD HOURANI TIMELESS AND FREE OF GENDER DIFFERENTIATION RAD HOURANI is a pioneer in the unisex market. The Jordanian/Canadian designer presented his first unisex collection in Paris in October 2007 at the age of 25. Since then, Hourani has built up two successful lines: RAD BY RAD HOURANI (ready-towear) and RAD HOURANI (haute couture). It has been more than five years since his first start and this designer still believes in his work. He knows precisely wherehe is going through his own fashion path. Hourani is a respectable man, a hard worker and a gifted artist.
Interview by Kevin Meunier Rad Hourani portrait photos © ZOE for RAD HOURANI all shown fashion : RAD HOURANI COLLECTION #12 © RAD HOURANI
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Rad, tell us a little bit about your work and design. How did you get into design? I have been driven by aesthetics in general since I was a kid and not just fashion. I was very aware of how I looked and how I wanted everything to look around me. I did not study after high school because, except for art and math class, I never enjoyed school. I was lucky enough to be curious about design, video making and photography. I learned it all by observing when I started scouting for a model agency. I ended up working full-time as a stylist at the age of 19 years. That was a bit like a 5-years training program for what I do today.
Later you moved to Paris. Was there a defining point in your career, and if so, how did it shape you as a designer? At the age of 23 I moved to Paris to continue as a stylist and something happened there. When I shopped, I never really found what I was looking for. At that time, my unisex vision started. I sketched my first collection for my own wardrobe. I believe that looking for the exact thing to wear was the first step toward designing. I was looking for something very specific that did not exist. It was an advantage for me not to be programmed by a school or other conditions as I am my own teacher and I have the freedom to create whatever comes to my mind, fitting in my unisex vision of course.
More specifically: Why did you start to create unisex fashion? The idea arose from a series of questions: who decided that a man should dress in one way and a woman in another? Or that different ages should dress differently? Who imposed these codes?
You were the first person to design a high-end unisex collection. Where didthis vision come from?
I do not understand who established these codes of dressing by gender. It does not make sense to me that a woman should dress differently than a man or vice versa.I am not trying to dress a man like a woman or the opposite. I am creating a new way of dressing that makes people look modern without any limits. Each piece can be worn by any gender or age. It does not make sense to me to limit things and that is why I took a full year to study male and female bodies, to create a canvas that can fit both.
It comes from my no-background-background. I guess my influences are the gathering of my own personal experiences and observations for so many years, not following something somebody told me to do or think. In that regard, my work became more personal.
I think it is about the yin and yang in all of us, the negative and positive, the masculine and feminine, the dark and light, the passive and active; the intuitive and logical, the cold and hot, the soft and hard. Observation is essential to me. There is no reality or understanding without it
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How would you describe your fashion generally? I am attached to the notion of purity. By choosing simple, stark lines, I strive to blur gender boundaries. I design from a very virgin point of view. I try to elude classical ready-to-wear rules that made us believe that women and men deserve different approaches..
On which way is this idea visible on your clothes? My pieces are timeless and free of gender differentiation. I hope to reach people who do not define themselves primarily as men or women, whom go beyond the classic demographic criterion. I want to make clothes that give the wearer a bold presence without looking contrived or overdone. It is about
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apparent simplicity, with refinement in the details. I would like them to feel confident and powerful, sort of like a weightless Armour, to feel tall, straight, sharp, new, and slick. I want my geometrical shapes to come alive through the movement of the wearer. I hope to reach people who do not define themselves in strict terms.
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What is the philosophy behind your creative proprocess? My methodology revolves around the notion of the present existing without a past.A pure present cannot be pure if you are not in the now. You cannot be present and have the past in you at the same time. To be in the present means to be free of the past and future. I think it is the same for clothing, it is about creating a form that can be the present at all times without fitting in any past categories. It is a very challenging thing for me, as it is very easy to design trends or be the cool thing one day and nothing the next day. I want to be true only to my vision and to the people who see themselves in it. It is very uncompromising.
What inspires you when building up a collection? I sketch a graphic shape that can become a building, a piece of furniture or a sculpture. It is not limited to becoming only a garment. After, I choose my classical fabrics in black to create the first item. And from there I continue an evolution of the same first sketch. I am also a perfectionist, even if perfection is nowhere. I always make sure that whatever I do, I do it right, or I don't do it at all. I think that is a great way to live. I must say that I think a great deal about myself when designing. Of course, I did not create a brand just for my own sake, but I believe that using what I would like to wear as a starting point for the design process is the most truthful and straightforward approach. It allows me to stay focused on my aesthetic and assess my commitment to wear-ability, functionality and comfort.
Your collections combine a kind of simplicity and craftsmanship behind. Onwhich way do you combine these two aspects? I have always been interested in creating something that looks minimal but complex to make. To me, it is the most challenging part of my work. I also admire the craftsmanship
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of making something extremely luxurious without it being showy. Attending to complexity and simplicity at the same time is a very long process. It is all about “savoir-faire,� which is working with the best of the best in every aspect: fabrics, tailoring, cutting, fitting, proportions, etc.
The start of your label was a very personal. Can we still find your personal approach in your current collections? I did my first collection for my personal wardrobe and I had no idea that it would go this far. I like to take risks to make a difference in what we do in life. I like to create my own rules and not to follow them, just to be part of an industry or a category. I am interested in the juxtaposition of somber and luminous, classical and modern. It is the deconstruction and reconstruction of visual elements gathered along different spaces and experiences. I do what makes sense to me and it always works out very well. Today I am very proud and honoured to be an invited member of haute couture and to be the first unisex designer in history.
Do you have any planned projects for your career in the future? I would like to keep on doing what I enjoy the most. To communicate my unisex vision to the world, and hopefully participate in building a modern world where I can see more people observing things instead of doing what so-
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ciety tells them to do. I want to see more people questioning everything that has been imposed on them: gender limitations, religion, borders, age, race, nationality, etc. Yes I am a dreamer and it keeps me alive.
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THE THIRD LITTLE PIG
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photography by WINTERSCHILDREN (ALICIA MAYBIR & JOSIE GELLING) models SOPHIE MUCKART, SAM FREW & JARRAH LYNCH fashiondesign by BRODERICK MCGARVEY
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skin care CLARINS HYDRAQENCH CREAM WITH SPF 15, CLARINS INSTANT SMOOTH PERFECTING TOUCH foundation CLARINSEVERLASTING FOUNDATION IN AMBER (112) & HONEY(110) cheeks JOE BLASCO HI TONE INTENSIFIER IN BRONZE eyebrows LAURA MERCIER BROW DEFINER IN WARM eyes ELIZABETH ARDEN 8 HOUR CREAM ORIGINS EYE BRIGHTENING COLOR STICK LAURA MERCIER CAVIAR STICK IN SAND GLOW, URBAN DECAY EYESHADOW ( VIRGIN ) lashes CLARINS WONDER LENGTH MASCARA IN BLACK lips VAPOUR ORGANIC LIP CONDITIONER , CLARINS INSTANT LIGHT LIP PERFECTOR 02 ( NUDE ) -92-
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photography by F&G model CAITLIN LAWSON @ NEXT MODELS
GEM STUN styling by FRANCIS OCON make-up by GENESIS ILADA FAHERTY
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skin care CLARINS HYDRAQENCH CREAM WITH SPF 15, CLARINS INSTANT SMOOTH PERFECTING TOUCH foundation TEMPTU AIRPOD IN HONEY AND GOLDEN cheeks TEMPTU AIRPOD BRONZER eyebrows LAURA MERCIER BROWDEFINER IN WARM eyes MAC PIGMENT IN TRUE CHARTRUESE, BEN NYE LUMIERE EYESHADOW COLOR IN CHARTREUSE , URBAN DECAY EYESHADOW IN M.I.A lashes CLARINS WONDER LENGTH MASCARA IN BLACK lips VAPOUR ORGANIC LIP CONDITIONER , OCCLIP TAR STAINED GLOSS IN META
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skin care CLARINS HYDRAQENCH CREAM WITH SPF 15, CLARINS INSTANT SMOOTH PERFECTING TOUCH foundation CLARINS SKIN ILLUSION FOUNDATION IN AMBER AND HONEY cheeks TEMPTU AIRPOD BRONZER eyebrows LAURA MERCIER BROW DEFINER IN WARM eyes BEN NYE LUMIERE EYE SHADOW IN COSMIC BLUE, MAC PIGMENT IN HIDEF CYAN URBAN DECAY EYESHADOW IN EVIDENCE lashes CLARINS WONDER VOULUME MASCARA IN BLACK AND SHU EUMURA IN LUXE BLACK lips VAPOUR ORGANIC LIP CONDITIONER INSIDE AND OUT LIPSTICK IN FRIDA
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skin care CLARINS HYDRAQENCH CREAM WITH SPF 15, CLARINS INSTANT SMOOTH PERFECTING TOUCH foundation VAPOUR ORGANIC SOFT FOCUS ATMOSPHERIC FOUNDATION (S-125 -S130) cheeks VAPOUR ORGANIC BEAUTY SOLAR TRANSLUCENT BRONZER eyes URBAN DECAY EYESHADOW IN TAINTED AND JUNKSHOW lashes CLARINS WONDER LENGTH MASCARA IN BLACK lips VAPOUR ORGANIC LIP CONDITIONER, VIPPY GIRL VEGOCENTRIC VEGAN LIPSTICK IN P-BOMB
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skin care CLARINS HYDRAQENCH CREAM WITH SPF 15, CLARINS INSTANT SMOOTH PERFECTING TOUCH foundation TEMPTU AIRPOD IN HONEY AND GOLDEN cheeks JOE BLASCO HI TONE INTENSIFIER IN BRONZE eyebrows LAURA MERCIER BROW DEFINER IN WARM eyes URBAN DECAY EYESHADOWS IN CHASE AND DEEPER, DEEP END, BEN NYE LUMIERE EYESHADOW IN JADE AND CHARTREUSE, ORIGINS EYE BRIGHTENING COLOR STICK lips VAPOUR ORGANIC LIP CONDITIONER INSIDE AND OUT LIPSTICK IN RUTH AND FLORENCE -97-
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skincare CLARINS HYDRAQENCH CREAM WITH SPF 15, CLARINS INSTANT SMOOTH PERFECTING TOUCH FOUNDATION TEMPTU AIRPOD IN HONEY AND GOLDEN cheeks TEMPTU AIRPOD BRONZER eyebrows LAURA MERCIER BROW DEFINER IN WARM eyes MAC PIGMENT IN COPPER SPARKLE, STILA STAY ALL DAY LIQUID EYELINER lashes CLARINS WONDER LENGTH MASCARA IN BLACK lips VAPOUR ORGANIC LIP CONDITIONER CLARINS JOLIE ROUGE IN SPICY CINNAMON (737) -98AND PAPAYA (711)
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skin care QENCH CREAM CLARINS PERFECTING ation VAPOUR SOFT FOCUS FOUNDATION cheeks VAPOUR BEAUTY SOLAR BRONZER eyes EYESHADOW IN JUNKSHOW WONDER LENGTH BLACK ORGANIC LIP VIPPY GIRL VEGAN LIPSTICK
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CLARINS HYDRAWITH SPF 15, INSTANT SMOOTH TOUCH foundORGANIC ATMOSPHERIC (S-125 -S130) ORGANIC TRANSLUCENT URBAN DECAY TAINTED AND lashes CLARINS MASCARA IN lips VAPOUR CONDITIONER, VEGOCENTRIC IN P-BOMB
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MAYMANGO 2014 PREMIUM shirt
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jacket PEUTEREY dress LIU-JO
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shirt SANDRO jeans REPLAY earring STYLIST’S OWN camera KODAK VINTAGE chair VINTAGE BAR STOOL
Shirt: Mango Premium
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EDITORIALS FROM APRIL
@ SUPERIOR ONLINE Click on the image to view the full Editorial
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photography by KATHLEEN CLIPPER & MATT GATES by DESTANI HOFFMAN hair by CHELLE LANCASTER by JEANETTE STROUPS models JINAPHER HOFFMAN, MCMILLAN, KARA BOLLING, ASHLEE RINGINOLDUS, PIERCE & CASSEY GRANADE all clothes by DESTANI -116-
styling make-up MONIQUE MATTEA HOFFMAN
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EXPLORE THE SUPERIOR SIGHT OF BERLIN DIGITAL
SUPERIOR BERLIN - iPAD-App | Online | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram | Vimeo | Youtube
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www.superior-berlin.com
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Magazine for young vanguard fashion & art photography • www.superior-mag.com
coming out on june 6th 2014
# JUNE 2014