Magazine for young vanguard fashion & art photography • www.superior-mag.com
LFW A/W 2014
# LONDON NEW YORK PARIS FASHION WEEK A/W 2014
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Imprint
SUPERIOR MAGAZINE Brunnenstrasse 191, 10119 Berlin www.superior-mag.com connection@superior-mag.com PUBLISHER
SUPERIOR Publishing UG (haftungsbeschr채nkt) Lychener Strasse 76, 10437 Berlin
CHIEF EDITOR V.i.S.d.P. Tom Felber / tom@superior-mag.com PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTOR Marc Huth / marc@superior-mag.com FASHION CONSULTANT Simon Heeger / simon@superior-mag.com ART DIRECTOR Marc Huth / marc@superior-mag.com GRAPHIC EDITOR Elena Bachaly / bachaly@superior-mag.com GRAPHIC EDITOR Daria Sommer / daria@superior-mag.com EDITORIAL DEPARTMENT editor@superior-mag.com ADVERTISING advertising@superior-mag.com PR MANAGEMENT press@superior-mag.com
CONTRIBUTERS
Shammara Lawrence Gretchen Robertson Semant Jain, Ph. D.
Linda Zid Michelle O. Dente Sophia El-Hayek Elizabeth Nash
Superior Magazine accepts no liability for any unsolicited material whatsoever. Opinions contained in the editorial content are those of the contributors and not necessarily those of the publisher of Superior Magazine. Despite careful control Superior Magazine accepts no liability for the content of external links. Any reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited
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Fashion Week A/W 2014
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NEW YORK
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LONDON FASHION WEEK A/W 2014 JOHN ROCHA -18-
LIZ BLACK -16-
EDELINE LEE -10-
TEATUM JONES -14-
MIN WU -17-
MULBERRY -13-
MARKUS LUPFER -12-
TREND SPECIAL -20-
ORLA KIELY -15-
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London: the second stop on the fashion month circuit and a breeding ground for individuality and emerging talent. The multicultural city with a long and respected tradition in its approach to fashion always adds a unique take on clothing design to the wider landscape of the fashion industry - only changing subtly based on the designers showcasing their work from season to season. While the city is often associated with big brands such as Burberry and Tom Ford, it champions upcoming designers coming out of prestigious schools like Central Saint Martins - a design school that is allocated one specific day on the calendar for its M.A. graduate runway show. Thus why London’s unique grassroot creativity was felt through its entire fashion week. Taking place over span of five days, the Autumn/Winter 2014 season of London fashion week experienced some key moments such as the wellington boot company, Hunter, presenting their first ever runway show, and the release of model Cara Delevingne’s handbag collection with iconic British brand, Mulberry. Moreover, under the provision of Fashion Scout, one of the leading international showcases, new talent were given the opportunity to showcase their work in the form of a traditional runway show or a fashion presentation. For instance, designers Liz Black and Min Wu utilized Fashion Scout’s platform to further catapult themselves into the broad scope of the fashion industry in London and abroad. Curating a selection of designers we believe to be of interest in the context of London fashion week, we have dedicated a special issue wherein the team at Superior discuss certain labels comprehensively to give you an inside look at what is to come in stores this forthcoming Autumn/Winter. So with Superior front and center at London’s recent fashion festivities, we present in-depth reviews of the city’s heavy hitters and upcoming talents. Text by Shammara Lawrence
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EDELINE LEE www.edelinelee.com
Canadian born, Edeline Lee was “discovered“ by Hamish illustrated with black ink, are the most casual aspect of the Bowles himself after designing a collection to display the styling. There is not a high heel or boot in sight. The result is work of jewellery designer, Cora Shebani in the spring of a little bit of Rothko through the eyes of a daydreaming art direction by GAËLLE CORREA andteenager DANIELA MACÉ 2012. She was also the head designer of Rodnik and is now who is ever so slightly touching aspects ofart-deco debuting her first solophotography collection AW14. Gritty very urera glamour. While the shoes are definitely a cute throw ROSSITER by andDANIELA MACÉ ROSSITER ban in concept but feels any thing but “street” The lines reback, in one ensemble, they are paired pleated crisp white by areGAËLLE styling AURORE main illustraion clean and the fabrics a little bitCORREA experimental. cotton by blouse boasting an asymmetrical bow allowing a White lacquered sweatshirt cotton is bonded to neoprene touch of collar bone to show, worn with pleated skirt with a DONGUY model SARAH RD @ VIP MODELS PARIS hair formed into an unexpected belted peplum blouse and jackfour pointed hem that echoes a rise and fall of the city ets in blue skin bonded to laser cut cottonby are folded, skyscrapers along the skyline. by ostrich ISMERIE CARRIE make-up DELPHINE DESCHATRETTE almost sculpted into smooth oval-esque shapes.
The presentation was set in three rooms in the academic end of LFW HQ. Deep in the heart of Kings College’s Basement was the manifested dream of Edel’lineL’ee’s NYC where everything is happening all of the time, taken from the perspective of her new home in East London. Edel’ine adds complexity by looking back to her childhood fantasies of New York City. White platform sneakers are hand
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The only girlish piece is a sleeveless dress with a skinny matching trouser worn as a two-piece made in a graphic print of black and white repetitive shapes on a cobalt background. This felt a little over done and may have worked as separate looks to bring the collection more cohesive. The rest of the collection felt inspired from an old Hollywood version of New York. High waists dresses and jackets with peplums or boxy shaped cardigan style jackets. Dresses fell
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a few centimetres from the knee from the front looked body skimming but added fullness came from clever folds falling from the waist to the hem at the back. The seriousness of the dresses tempered by casual platform trainers. The ambitious event tripled as a soft launch, look book shoot and live filming complete with make up artists putting final touches on the models, in front of the press. Everything was happening all at once reflecting on the concept of Edel’ine Lee’s vision of the city that never sleeps. It’s worth keeping an eye on Ms Lee for seasons to come. There is so much here there is no safe place to gain perspective; perhaps next season she will choose from what worked and build on it, keeping her eye focused to the future. Text and Photography by Gretchen Robertson
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MARKUS LUPFER www.markuslupfer.com
signature slogans like “Kiss Me Quick” and “Full English”. More English than a cup a tea is our Markus Lupfer, takes Motifs depict café condiments and typical British flying inspiration from the ordinary folks of Northern England. The ducks found on the walls of a typical Mike Leigh film. The streets of Manchester and the bright lights of Blackpool art direction by GAËLLE CORREA andscene DANIELA MACÉ at the presentation was cooler than cool with a crowd spark the mood of AW14. Last season the Lupfer girl was was truly London. The Parr-Lupfer lens was playful youngROSSITER and sullen. This season’s girl is clean, photography bycontemporary, DANIELA that MACÉ ROSSITER and youthful as his audience. He stays true to his customer more grown up but a little bit moody, with a nod to Mod and illustraion by GAËLLE CORREA styling by AURORE while pushing forward technique and translation. the work of Martin Parr. It’s a tall order but one that works beautifully. The likes of British Icon, Alexa Chung will be likely DONGUY model SARAH RD @ VIP MODELS PARIS hair sporting gamine zip pencil skirts paired with boxy jackets boasting y contrastCARRIE collars. Sequin tops sparkle with by fluff ISMERIE make-up by DELPHINE DESCHATRETTE
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Text and Photography by Gretchen Robertson
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MULBERRY
www.mulberry.com
Cara worked closely with the Mulberry design team to create a collection of bags. She visited the archives, chose leathers, sketched ideas, talked shop, discussed customers’ practical needs and the trend for understated elegance. Cara obsessed over every detail of her collection and determined each element of the design, from the right straps and buckles to the combination of Mulberry’s signature hardware and her own finishing touches. The Mulberry Cara Delevingne Bag is a three-in-one style, uniting Mulberry’s English attitude to functional beauty and Cara’s inimitable personality - a bag that can take you anywhere. It can be worn on the back: for running from the gym to the office, from meeting to meeting, from train to plane. It can be worn on the shoulder: to take you from work to dinner or from town to country. It can be hand-held: for maximum elegance at all times or when you need to rise to an occasion.
Whatever it is that you do, this bag will come with you. When asked who would like the Mulberry Cara Delevingne Bag Cara said:
“My Granny will like this bag. She’s one hundred and two years old. My five year old cousin will probably like this bag. He’s a boy.” As they entered the Claridge’s Ballroom guests were transported from the town to the country, from the beauty and grandeur of a town hotel to an idyllic English country scene. 160 silver birch trees lined the walls of the room, and in the spirit of the Autumn Winter season the trees had shed their leaves, with 25,000 scattered across the floor. Claridge’s served a quintessentially English menu of Thymeroasted Chicken and Sirloin of Beef with all the trimmings, followed by Cara’s favourite puddings of traditional Sticky Toffee Pudding and Apple and Blackberry Crumble. Guests sat at three banqueting tables dressed with traditional tableware, exquisite crystal-cut glassware and place settings formed from rounds of ash tree. Silver birch swings topped with candles and six types of wild mushrooms including chanterellles, girolles, enoki and hon shimeji sourced from the New Covent Garden Market were suspended above the tables, with beautiful dappled lighting filtered through the trees providing an atmosphere inspired by alfresco dining on a crisp autumn evening. The evening also featured acoustic performances by Marika Hackman and Will Heard. Guests stayed on for after dinner cocktails and dancing in the beautiful surroundings of Claridge’s hotel. Text and Photography by Gretchen Robertson
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TEATUM JONES www.teatumjones.com
“I Cried almost all the way to Nashville” is the title of the 2009 knitwear, black and white oversized herringbone unexpectFashion Fringe finalist duo, Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones. edly fashioned into short dresses, flattered with tightly beltTeatum and Jones are both graduates of Womenswear at ed waists and crisp white cotton shirt collars. Things revved art direction by GAËLLE CORREA and DANIELA MACÉ Ravenbourne and Central Saint Martins respectively. They up considerably with a slightly softer, dresser collection in met while working on Menswear collections became woven on in red, magenta and oil slick black. Billowing ROSSITER photography by and DANIELA MACÉ chiffROSSITER enamoured with one another’s sense of escapism. Hailed by blouses barely tucked into flowing trousers or skirts paired GAËLLE CORREA take styling by contouring AUROREblack knits worn with lacquer red overAfsun illustraion Queshi as pioneersby of textiles, the designers a with body conceptual approach to fashion taking from the romance and sized pullover falling off one shoulder. The duo spun a story DONGUY model SARAH RD @ VIP MODELS PARIS hair tragedy of a story. of contrasts: masculine and feminine, poverty and wealth, Cowboys and Indians; as clearly as Loretta Lynn’s monoby ISMERIE CARRIE make-up by DELPHINE DESCHATRETTE Country music piped through the glass walled lounge high logue. The knits looked luxurious and sexy to wear during the above Somerset House. Textile pioneers, Teatum Jones, de- day. Chiffon added a softness and burst of colour for day or but salon show took inspiration from Richard Avedon’s “In the night. American West”. Inspired by stories of misplaced dreams and desolate isolation of the American Deep South, contrasted Teatum and Jones are proud to announce as CFE’s 2013/2014 with the optimism of urban prosperity. Perched high on the “Venture Designers” joining an alumni of some of the most head, black felt Amish style wide brimmed hats contrasted directional and successful designers currently showing at silver check flirty pleated dresses with cowboy shirt fringes London Fashion Week along the yoke. Long lean tailored jackets that finished just below the hip paired with matching trousers in silver and grey Text and Photography by Gretchen Robertson check spoke to a modern confident woman. Moving into -14-
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ORLA KIELY
www.orlakiely.com
Set in the old Central Saint Martins Textile building, it was entirely fitting for a mistress of pattern to show both her collaborative collection with Clarks along side her AW14 womenswear. The presentation began to the roar of thunder and pitter-patter of raindrops. The first look was a cream patent mac with delicate black print. There was a feeling of Nouvelle Vague, carrying on the beauty trend of gently bouffant coiffures pulled back in to low chignons framing pretty peaches and cream faces. Full slightly pleated skirts were worn with jumpers finishing just below the waist with embroidered motifs placed high on the décolleté. Models held teacup shaped transparent umbrellas with tiny white dots, which cooled some of the stronger toned outfits. A favourite was emerald green a line skirt teamed up with a cerise pink boat neck jumper. The look was straight from a
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scene in The Umbrellas of Cherbourg. Navy frocks coats were made girlier with pale pink leather shoulder bags with thin straps and gold trimmings. A pretty high neck black devore cocktail dress was made more daytime with a tan leather clutch worn with ivory knit tights and chunky heals with brass eyelets. The heaviness of the shoe felt modern and of course wearable through into the other big trend of the seventies. The bags were of a decent size for a mini ipad and a set of keys at least. Overall it’s provided a few decent staples for the Orla customers and provided options at a high street price point, this news should be a silver lining to the those rainclouds hanging over London this week. Text and Photography by Gretchen Robertson
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LIZ BLACK www.lizblack.net
FASHION MEETS PARANOIA Created in 2010 by Central Saint Martins graduate, Liz Black, art direction by GAËLLE CORREA and DANIELA MACÉ the eponymous label known for their structural statement pieces,ROSSITER displayed theirphotography newest Autumn/Winter collec- MACÉ ROSSITER by 2014 DANIELA tion under the provision of London’s Fashion Scout. Since the brand’sillustraion inception, it has gained wide celebrity following, styling and by aGAËLLE CORREA by AURORE Liz Black herself has been deemed a rising star by fashion DONGUY model SARAH RD @ in VIP PARIS hair enthusiasts and professionals alike. Moreover, 2011, MODELS the brand was selected by Roland Mouret as a semifinalist for by ISMERIE make-up DELPHINE DESCHATRETTE the prestigious FashionCARRIE Fringe Award, further by establishing itself in the London fashion scene and the fashion industry at-large. For more information and photographs of Liz Black’s Autumn/Winter 2014 collection, head over to the online website. Text and Photography by Shammara Lawrence
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MIN WU PERSONALITY AND DEFINITION TO A DISTINCT STYLE AESTHETIC art direction by GAËLLE CORREA and DANIELA MACÉ
Graduating from the London College of Fashion in 2013 with a Masters in womenswear, the Chinese born Min MACÉ ROSSITER ROSSITER photography by designer, DANIELA Wu, presented her newest Autumn/Winter 2014 collection illustraion GAËLLE this CORREA styling by AURORE entitled “Atmosphere andbyAutomation” past London Fashion Week. With the bold modern woman as her target DONGUY modelexperiments SARAH with RD fluid @ shapes, VIP MODELS PARIS hair consumer, Wu continually unconventional structures, and various textiles to make a wide by ISMERIE CARRIE make-up by DELPHINE DESCHATRETTE range of garments for her respective collections. Merging traditional aspects of design making, with that of technology, Wu has placed an emphasis on creating pieces which reflect that of our present-day landscape. To get an inside look on the brand’s A/W ‘14 collection, and where it is heading in the forthcoming years, take a look on the full-fledged review over at superior-mag.com. Text and Photography by Shammara Lawrence
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JOHN ROCHA
www. johnrocha.ie
LOVE FOR THE ORDINARY AND BEAUTIFUL IN OUR EVERDY EXPERIENCES Time and time again, the well-established brand and designer himself, John Rocha, displays picturesque feminine silhouettes on the catwalks of London Fashion Week. Known for his romantic temperament, Rocha delivers timeless pieces in a contemporary fashion; whether it be for the modern day working woman, or his younger more aspirational demographic looking to merge fantasy and reality in their
everyday lives. This time around, inspired by a trip to Iceland, Rocha presented his Autumn/Winter 2014 collection this past London Fashion Week to a room filled with fashion spectators. The collection itself was accompanied by trademark materials Rocha is often associated with - such as organza and floral appliquĂŠ. For an in-depth review of the collection, visit the fashion week section of the Superior website.
Text by Shammara Lawrence Photography Š JOHN ROCHA AUTMN/WINTER 2014
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LONDON FASHION WEEK FALL 2014
TREND SPECIAL
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For the F/W 2014 season, New York Fashion Week unfolded with its characteristic hard-driving cool and Milan Fashion Week with its well-heeled sophistication, but it was London Fashion Week that took the prize for exuberant, trend-setting eclecticism; pacesetting brilliance; and on-fire creativity. And for five vivacious days in this young-old city, designers were all about sharing their exuberance with the world. With fabulous purples, lustrous metallics, bold oranges, and intense cobalt blue featured in prints, leather, and furs, the show's attendees had a lot to see — as well as to be seen in. Here we present some of the electrifying trends we noticed in the seventy-six shows at London Fashion Week.
editor in chief SEMANT JAIN, PH. D. article editor ELIZABETH NASH fashion writers MICHELLE O. DENTE & LINDA ZID website WWW.SJCHRONICLE.COM
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In deep, regal hues and soft pastel, purple captured the runway, turning clothing into majestic works of art. In Barbara Casasola‘s collection, an intense fuchsia-purple saturated a simple long coat, a cropped turtleneck sweater, an innovatively detailed highwaisted skirt, and a basic pantsuit. The vibrant shade gave Casasola’s simple designs a lavish appearance.
Photography © London Fashion Week / Layout by SJ Chronicle
TREND 1 - PURPLE: THE ROYAL COLOR Designers David Koma, Antonio Berardi, and Ashish Gupta also accentuated their designs with bold purples. Koma used a shimmering royal purple on a structured trench coat over a high-necked shirt and miniskirt; open-toed high boots added a sexy appeal to the overall look. Precise tailoring and a deep plum color defined a cropped, cape-sleeved jacket from Berardi. And for his brand Ashish, Gupta offered a radiant, long-sleeved purple mini-dress shimmering with his trademark sequins.
Photography © London Fashion Week / Layout by SJ Chronicle
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Photography Š London Fashion Week / Layout by SJ Chronicle
On the opposite end of the purple spectrum, a delicate lavender shade softened a collection by Whistles with carefully draped trousers and a tie-front sleeveless tunic, a similarly styled jumpsuit, and an off-the-shoulder shirt and tea-length skirt with subtle sequins.
Ed Meadham and Ben Kirchhoff of brand Meadham Kirchoff flaunted the versatility of purple in a graceful printed dress and two jaunty tweed suits in a plaid that mixed pink and white with the royal color. One suit model wore cobalt gloves; the other, a skin-tight pair in a fabulous rainbow-hued metallic.
Photography Š London Fashion Week / Layout by SJ Chronicle
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TREND 2 - METALLICS: COOL AND HOT Trend 1 – Purple: The Royal Color
Photography © London Fashion Week / Layout by SJ Chronicle
In keeping with the exuberant spirit of London Fashion Week, several designers gravitated toward metallics: the standout glow of gold and silver and the rainbow shine of holograms. House of Holland sent this striking trend down the runways in elegant silver separates such as a shimmering skirt and quilted crop top. Jonathan Saunders showed a festive tea-length dress in gold and silver patchwork, and Gupta offered more-casual athletic looks that easily rivaled USA Winter Olympics ensembles with their pizzazz.
Some ensembles featured a lighter metallic touch. Playful gold metallic leaves accented a white fur Erdem dress. Antipodium had several ensembles with hints of metal. Silver-grey pants that appeared both graceful and comfortable were paired with a subdued shortsleeved top in black. A striking copper belt cinched a subdued heather-grey sweater dress. Photography © London Fashion Week / Layout by SJ Chronicle
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Gold also shone in a couple of playful jumpsuits from Daks that paired bearskin hats reminiscent of Buckingham Palace guards with other dramatic pieces, including long glimmering gloves and a furry capelet. A look from Richard Nicoll paired the regal appeal of gold with the comfort of a relaxed sheath dress. In contrast with the elaborate, in-your-face excitement of the Daks looks, Nicoll achieved drama with quieter details: embossing his dress with large polka dots, tucking a molten scarf into its deep v-neck, and pairing it with metallic orangey-bronze brogues. Photography Š London Fashion Week / Layout by SJ Chronicle
Photography Š London Fashion Week / Layout by SJ Chronicle
Hologram fabrics, which appear to change color with movement, were also prominent in ensembles from Fyodor Golan, Daks, and Julien MacDonald that shimmered down the runways.
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Trend 1 – Purple: The Royal Color For an audacious and uplifting impression, several designers stunned the crowd by sending out all-orange garments that evoked different moods. Mark Fast conveyed a jaunty feel with a long orange turtleneck sweater-dress paired with an equally long scarf and thicksoled metallic sneakers. Preen’s combination of a long-sleeved peplum top with matching trousers showed that orange can hold its own in the professional world. That feeling of traditional sophistication also radiated from Antipodium’s long orange trench-like coat with fur-trimmed collar. Photography © London Fashion Week / Layout by SJ Chronicle
Joyous and bright orange skirts varied in style. The traditional feel of Jasper Conran’s semi-high-waisted pencil skirt contrasted with Osman’s version of the pencil, which featured an artsy dark printed hand holding a clutch. Emelio de la Morena matched a ruffle-sleeved sweater with a satin pink skirt under an intricately woven orange overlay. Photography © London Fashion Week / Layout by SJ Chronicle
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Vivienne Westwood used orange fearlessly in a large plaid pattern, tempered just a little with soft gray, for a pair of trim cropped trousers, a handsome coat, and a contemporary suit. Photography © London Fashion Week / Layout by SJ Chronicle
TREND 3 - ORANGE: ANYTHING BUT CLOCKWORK A dramatic pumpkin-orange furry coat by Preen gave a sense of cocoonlike warmth; flowing orange slacks balanced its rounded shape. This collection also included a long, buttonless trench coat and a shimmering, long-sleeved dress in an orange-on-orange print shown, like Preen’s other looks, with citrine-yellow shoes. Photography © London Fashion Week / Layout by SJ Chronicle
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The vibrancy continued with all the cobalt blue appearing on the London runways. Hunter Original presented the electric color in a hooded raincoat, a puffy winter coat, and a contemporary motorcycle jacket. Photography © London Fashion Week / Layout by SJ Chronicle
TREND 4 - COBALT BLUE: POLISHED INTENSITY Richard Nicoll’s collection embraced the trend in bold, color-saturated pieces. For texture, he combined dyed fur and leather. Cobalt blue ruffles and insets on a sleeveless tunic contrasted sharply with a lighter shade of blue. Nicoll also used traces of the color as leather accents on a denim jacket and skirt.
Photography © London Fashion Week / Layout by SJ Chronicle
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To temper the intense hue, Sibling paired a lacy crocheted cobalt skirt with a close-fitting burgundy blouse, its collar crocheted in the same deep blue as the skirt. Osman used cobalt in a flared kneelength skirt and in a short-sleeved coat, its front accented with the same dark hand holding a white clutch that he showed on multiple pieces in his collection.
Photography Š London Fashion Week / Layout by SJ Chronicle
Eudin Choi showcased what this striking color can do for simple silhouettes (and a variety of skin tones). In a whimsical allusion to menswear, he layered a loose, knee-length cobalt dress under a dark, unfitted pin-striped coat and very narrow pin-striped slacks of the same material. In a wink to the sportswear world, Choi finished the pants with knitted elasticized cuffs. He also used cobalt in a pair of slim cropped pants paired with a cobalt-andblack patterned sweater and in a chic cocktail dress. Photography Š London Fashion Week / Layout by SJ Chronicle
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ALEXANDRE HERCHOVITCH -32CALLA -38CZAR -42DAVID TLALE -50PARKCHOONMOO -563.1 PHILLIP LIM -62VENEXIANA - 70-
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Photography © Alexandre Herchovitch / Layout by SJ Chronicle
The models wearing the lighter palette—concoctions of the softest cream, white, and peach—drifted down the runway looking dreamy and a bit dazed; as if they’d just left romantic assignations. Large round sunglasses, most with orange lenses that did not obscure the eyes, accentuated the feeling of distracted dreaminess. Artful touches—cashmere jersey camisoles worn over, rather than under, blouses; lacy leggings peeking out from the hems of dresses or culottes; straps and sleeves shrugged off one shoulder—further enhanced the sense of tasteful dishabille.
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ALEXANDRE HERCHOVITCH MADE Fashion Week Fall 2014 Milk Studios, New York, NY February 8, 2014 Editorial Team Editor in Chief: Fashion Writer: Interviewer: Website:
Semant Jain, Ph.D. Elizabeth Nash Michelle O. Dente www.sjchronicle.com
Design Team Fashion Designer: Alexandre Herchcovitch Stylist: Mauricio Ianes Co-designer (Lace) Martha Medeiros Show Director Dean Snyder Makeup Artists: Phillipe Chansel and the M.A.C. PRO Team Hairstylists: Rolando and the Bumble and Bumble Team
On February 8, 2014, designer Alexandre Herchcovitch presented his Fall 2014 ready-to-wear collection at Milk Studios in New York during MADE Fashion Week. With its two strongly contrasting palettes, bold mix of masculine and feminine, and strong allusions to Victorian underthings and outerwear, the collection honored the Brazilian designer’s twin loves: fantasy and innovation. “I don’t make future plans [for my designs],” the soft-spoken Herchcovitz told SJ Chronicle’s Michelle O. Dente in a backstage interview. “I just live day by day.” This season, that open-mindedness led the designer to contrasting looks that shared a sense of witty and elegant otherworldliness.
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Herchcovitch varied his silhouettes without changing the mood. One long pale dress was straight and slip-like, another high-necked and prim. Structured blouses paired with loose shorts or with shorts in delicate, form-fitting lace.
Photography © Alexandre Herchovitch / Layout by SJ Chronicle
Handmade Brazilian lace, created in partnership with designer Martha Medeiros, graced many of the pale outfits, sometimes as an accent, sometimes as the key material of construction. Herchcovitz told SJ Chronicle that he found the lace-making to be the most challenging part of the show. He described the process as “an antique Brazilian technique that’s dying, unfortunately, because it’s very expensive and takes lots of time [to do].” Like Medeiros, who is also Brazilian, Herchcovitch wants to call the world’s attention to this beautiful craftwork.
Photography © Alexandre Herchovitch / Layout by SJ Chronicle
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NYFW A/W 2014
Photography © Alexandre Herchovitch / Layout by SJ Chronicle
More-structured pieces assured that the collection, even in the pale palette, evoked women’s strength as well as their fragility. Some outfits had capelets with suit-style notched lapels; others, athletic-style shorts or double rows of large buttons that referenced men’s heavy Victorian overcoats.
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With the second palette— bright red, dark gray, and black—the feeling segued from dreamy and dazed to dark and moody. A few long red dresses with short mock turtlenecks seemed to look behind to the limited lives of Victorian women and ahead to female astronauts and space travel. Several dark outfits winked slyly at Victorian style by keeping the basic details but drastically shortening the skirt and pairing it with a seethrough bodice, removing the sleeves, or plunging the bodice into a deep V.
Large round sunglasses, most with very dark lenses, accentuated this palette’s sense of mystery. With both palettes, models wore short socks and patent leather, ankle-strapped oxfords in red, black, or white. The shoes combined the heft of a masculine wingtip with the lightness of a feminine sandal. Most models wore their hair up, swept over the forehead from an indistinct side part. A fuzzy texture and flyaway style accentuated the collection’s overall tone of romantic dishevelment. The makeup team kept
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Other dark outfits paid more direct homage to Victorian fashion with very high necks, long skirts, ruffled shoulders, and full sleeves. But Herchcovitz’s inventiveness gave each piece a modern feeling. In one fine example, he beautifully tailored leg o’ mutton sleeves to add a lower slit through which the model slipped her arms, giving the appearance that she was also wearing a capelet.
Photography © Alexandre Herchovitch / Layout by SJ Chronicle
faces very clean, with a touch of pale pink on the lips and a hint of color around the eyes. Since beginning his design career in 1994, Alexandre Herchcovitch has lived by the personal rule that each new season presents a fresh opportunity to challenge himself by doing something new. His Fall 2014 collection suggests that he’s far from running out of ideas. See more of his work (including band-aids he designed for Johnson & Johnson) on his website.
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The collection delicately juxtaposed French sophistication and country simplicity. A thin red belt cinched at the waist redefined the mohair plaid shawl draped over a graphic print dress. For a comfortable yet put-together look, a straight-cut silhouette relaxed a printed blazer and layered skirt. On a lightly pleated pink top, a bright print looked surprisingly chic paired with sheer shorts.
CALLA MADE Fashion Week Fall 2014 Milk Studios, New York, NY February 8, 2014 Editorial team Editor in Chief: Article Editor: Fashion Writer: Interviewer: Website:
Semant Jain, Ph.D. Elizabeth Nash Sophia El-Hayek Michelle O. Dente www.sjchronicle.com
Design team Fashion designer: Calla Haynes (Paris, France) Makeup Artists: M.A.C. Cosmetics Team Lead Hairstylist: Ramona Eschbach, Oribe
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Photography © Calla
An important feature of this collection is the lively prints designed to showcase famous country music cities. As the unofficial mascot of the label, Calla’s dog Chou Chou Lilybear takes us on this journey through Memphis, Austin, Tupelo, and Nashville. The four prints, each named after one of the cities, feature Lilybear in different bold colors and shapes.
On February 8, 2014, designer Calla Haynes presented her Fall 2014 collection at Milk Studios during MADE Fashion Week. SJ Chronicle’s correspondent Michelle O. Dente interviewed Calla backstage before the show and got an early look at the styles as well as the background details of her collection, which tells the story of a heartbroken French girl who moves to Nashville, Tennessee, with the dream of becoming a country music singer. As Calla explained, “This season was influenced by my recent infatuation with all things country.” Drawing inspiration from sources such as the TV series Nashville, Dolly Parton, and the Porter Wagner Show, she created fashions that merge the bright lights of showbiz with simple and comfortable country charm.
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Each season, Calla invents stories for the creative “Calla woman.” Whether a singer, painter, or interior decorator, she’s always someone who appreciates the arts and expresses her creativity through her clothes. For her Fall 2014 French/ country chanteuse, Calla envisioned sleepless nights practicing, auditions, and dress rehearsals—a brave artiste reinventing herself through her experiences and style.
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The story isn’t complete without hair and makeup. Led by Ramona Eschbach, the Oribe hairstylists concocted a playfully sophisticated style, bouffant in the front with a curled pony tail in the back. “Following Calla’s creative brief,” Ramona explained, “we wanted something chic and cute with a country twang edge, part Dolly Parton, part Catherine Deneuve.” The M.A.C. Cosmetics team kept models’ faces clean for a fresh look but gave a nod to country singers with a peachy glow on the cheeks and blue eye shadow. Separated lower lashes offered a youthful Twiggy reference, and a low-key bit of gold warmed and highlighted the lips. The simple, soft look beautifully supported Calla’s vision of the young French girl who traveled across the world to pursue her dream.
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Photography © Calla
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Each season, Calla invents stories for the creative “Calla woman.” Whether a singer, painter, or interior decorator, she’s always someone who appreciates the arts and expresses her creativity through her clothes. For her Fall 2014 French/ country chanteuse, Calla envisioned sleepless nights practicing, auditions, and dress rehearsals—a brave artiste reinventing herself through her experiences and style.
In a pre-show interview with SJ Chronicle’s Michelle O. Dente, Cesar Galindo explained the vision behind his collection: “This collection is about the alternate states of existing, going from the morning, to work, to the evening.” With women now needing to leave the house prepared to spend the day simultaneously juggling children, relationships, and home, the designer believes women’s clothing needs to be comfortable, functional, and flexible. To help the CZAR woman transcend the varied environments she encounters in her nonstop day, Galindo created pieces that can blend in any setting. Playful dresses ranged from flared, to boxy, to form fitting. An artsy-patterned flared dress with cap sleeves had splashes of black, turquoise, and burnt orange and a boxy, sleeveless turquoise dress with black tights both conveyed a youthful elegance. A simple black sleeveless dress added excitement with its three-dimensional details.
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CZAR Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Fall 2014 Hub at the Hudson Hotel, New York, NY February 9, 2014 Editorial Team: Editor in Chief: Article Editor: Fashion Writer: Website:
Semant Jain, Ph.D. Elizabeth Nash Michelle O. Dente www.sjchronicle.com
Design Team: Fashion Designer: Makeup Artist: Hairstylist: Nail Artist:
Cesar Galindo (Czar) Ashunta Sheriff for Mary Kay Janelle Chaplin and Joseph Mullen for Original Mineral Rose Velez-Miggins for La Palm Spa Products
Photography © Czar
Photography © Czar
Photography © Czar
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Photography © Czar
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Photography © Czar
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Photography Š Czar
To add to the ultra-edgy demeanor, Galindo designed a long-sleeved purple and blue sequined dress and a black leather dress with intricate cutout detailing. Feather-like outlines in black accented a stunning short white dress with pockets.
Photography Š Czar
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Galindo showed off his trendy fabrics and silhouettes in a pair of super-slim textured leather pants and two pairs of wide, flared pants. Photography Š Czar
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Photography © Czar
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Photography © Czar
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Photography © Czar
Galindo told SJ Chronicle he imagined a very confident woman wearing the pieces from this collection. “She’s a fashionista,” Galindo said, “one who’s subdued and bold at the same time—a high contrast.” To enhance the transcending and confident theme of the collection, lead makeup artist Ashunta Sheriff created a look that would transfer easily from day to night. She explained to SJ Chronicle, “I decided to do what I call ‘fire and smoke,’ but it’s basically these warm tones very reminiscent of fall.”
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Ashunta used a palette of browns, gold, burnt orange, and even cranberry to display the colors of the season while keeping the look natural. “We gave a nice luminous pop on the cheekbones and we did some contouring,” she said. “And we did ombre lips; it’s very neutral on the outside and then goes into gold in the center.” Hairstylists Janelle Chaplin and Joseph Mullen created a modern-day blade runner look—very polished with a chic sci-fi appearance. The hair was straightened and slicked back at the sides with hairspray; holy powder added pops of color. Mullen got his inspiration for color accents after visiting India. “There’s a festival called the Holy Festival where they celebrate
Photography © Czar
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by throwing really colorful powders around,” he explained. To add a special touch of detail to Galindo’s overall concept, nail artist Rose Velez-Miggens incorporated an edgy French manicure in black with a silver diagonal stripe. Summing up his show, Galindo emphasized that quality is the most important element in his clothing. He said, “It’s important for what you put your name on. There’s a lot going on for me, I’m meeting with some major people. We’re developing a third-tier brand for me and it’s kind of just everything I’ve been wishing for coming to life.” Visit the brand’s website to see more of Galindo’s work.
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DAVID TLALE On February 9, 2014, during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, South African designer David Tlale presented a Fall 2014 collection designed for the woman who prefers a quiet palette and a graceful, timeless style. In a post-show interview with SJ Chronicle’s Semant Jain, Tlale explained that he favors clothing that is simple and classy rather than showy, its elegance derived from precise fitting and tailoring and luxury natural fabrics.
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Editorial Team: Editor in Chief: Semant Jain, Ph.D. Article Editor: Elizabeth Nash Fashion Writer: Sophia El-Hayek Interviewer: Semant Jain, Ph.D. Website: www.sjchronicle.com Design team: Fashion designer: David Tlale (South Africa) Makeup Artists: M.A.C. Cosmetics Team Lead Hairstylist: René Furterer with Erik Pearson Shoes: Emy Mack Public Relations: On-Point PR & Collective Communications Ground Support & Backstage Logistics: United Colours of Fashion
The first looks down the runway spoke to that sense of minimalist elegance and also to the designer’s current interest in exploring daily wear. Carefully cut and draped blouses in soft taupe balanced pencil skirts and city shorts that skimmed the body with ladylike modesty. -51-
Photography © Eric Marillier/SDR Photo / Layout by SJ Chronicle
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Several knee-length fitted dresses in the same soft beiges and taupes could, like the shorts and skirts, move easily from office to evening cocktails. Tlale distinguished each dress with finely crafted details: a gentle swath of fabric that fell from the back of the neck to either side of the hem; 他 length cape sleeves; large cap sleeves, their exaggerated shape restrained by careful tucking at the bodice; a demure beaded collar (worked by hand in South Africa, Tlale proudly told SJ Chronicle).
In several looks suitable for late-night parties, Tlale introduced navy blue to the palette. A graceful fern pattern worked in silver embroidery added richness to a sumptuous light navy fabric. Rows of pastilles curved over the shoulders of a long coat paired with a sinuous dark navy jumpsuit. Patterned linings in lighter shades added a touch of whimsy to several of the long coats. -52-
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Photography Š Eric Marillier/SDR Photo / Layout by SJ Chronicle
Photography Š Eric Marillier/SDR Photo / Layout by SJ Chronicle
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The next looks left the light-colored workday look behind and took the Tlale woman out for an elegant evening of cocktails and fine dining in chic black dresses. One stunning look featured a bodice sleeveless on one side and long-sleeved on the other.
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Photography Š Eric Marillier/SDR Photo / Layout by SJ Chronicle
Tlale then turned his attention from the party to the all-out elegance of the red carpet gala with dresses that ranged in length from short to three-quarter to floor length. Here, ruffles lace, and sheer fabrics relaxed the almost austere restraint of his day, evening, and party pieces while still maintaining a disciplined sense of proportion.
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To achieve Tlale’s concept of “simple street chic,” lead hairstylist René Furterer parted models’ hair, kept the front clean and neat, and left the back very soft and natural. The M.A.C. Cosmetics team kept makeup simple, giving models matte skin with a touch of metallic shadow around the eyes and nude lips. Paired with the simple but elegant clothing, these artists’ work created a gorgeously effortless and timeless look. David Tlale’s career has always been inspired and motivated by his homeland. As he told SJ Chronicle, he is honored and proud to represent his country on the international stage and wants to tell the world, through fashion, about the beauty that is South Africa. With this collection, Tlale has shown himself more than equal to that task.
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Park’s dual training in industrial as well as fashion design shone in this collection through her use of the cube as inspiration. The geometric shape sharpened the silhouettes of dresses, coats, and turtleneck sweaters. An enlarged black-and-white houndstooth pattern added chic appeal. An oversized collar showed off the sophisticated pattern on a black coat with an asymmetrical closure. Next came a white skirt with pockets and a houndstooth-patterned sweater with three-quarterlength sleeves. Park added zipper details on the shoulder and slit of an oversized white dress with houndstooth sleeves and paired the outfit with black kneehigh boots.
Lavish white fur made its appearance on winter-white coats. In arresting counterpoint, Park incorporated black leather on long skirts, coats, and sweaters. Lavish white fur made its appearance on winter-white coats. In arresting counterpoint, Park incorporated black leather on long skirts, coats, and sweaters. Photography Š Parkchoonmoo / Layout by SJ Chronicle
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PARKCHOONMOO On February 9, 2014, Day Four of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, South Korean designer Park Choonmoo of brand Parkchoonmoo presented her Fall 2014 Ready-to-wear collection. In this 25th year of her career as a designer, Park presented a collection that embraced her past designs while transforming them into revitalized looks. Bursts of crimson red, navy, and metallic gold energized a palette of subdued camel, black, white, and gray. Furs and leather added texture, and exposed seams and zippers contributed to the edgy yet still sharply sophisticated feel.
Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Fall 2014 February 9, 2014 Pavilion at Lincoln Center, New York, NY Editorial Team Editor in Chief: Article Editor: Fashion Writer: Website:
Semant Jain, Ph.D. Elizabeth Nash Michelle O. Dente www.sjchronicle.com
Design Team Fashion Designer: Park Choonmoo Hairstylist: Nick Irwin for Catwalk by TIGI Makeup Artist: Jenna Menard for Clinique
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To add striking—even startling— color to her subtle palette, the designer tucked red turtle-neck sweater dresses under twotoned black and navy coats.
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Photography Š Parkchoonmoo / Layout by SJ Chronicle
Metallic gold accented the simplicity of a long-sleeved shirt, added edge to a blazer, and enhanced the extravagance of a floor-length skirt with pockets.
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Park also incorporated delicate scarves to complement her autumnal pieces in a mixture of black and white, taupe, and aquatic blues. Photography © Parkchoonmoo / Layout by SJ Chronicle
Makeup artist Jenna Menard for Clinique reflected Park’s aesthetic by using a very natural eye with a deep purple lip for a subtle look with a touch of daunting beauty. Hairstylist Nick Irwin for Catwalk by TIGI straightened models’ hair, parted it down the middle, and tucked it into the back of the garment. This sleek, refined look drew attention to Park’s precisely designed and beautifully tailored clothing. This Parkchoonmoo collection celebrated Park’s skill at interpreting conventional silhouettes with great sophistication while incorporating trendy accents. Each garment offered women an exhilarating invitation to dress in easy-to-wear clothing without surrendering style, class, or a sense of the thoroughly modern. See more at Park’s website.
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Photography Š Parkchoonmoo / Layout by SJ Chronicle
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3.1 PHILLIP LIM
Photography Š Phillip Lim / Layout by SJ Chronicle
On Monday, February 10, Phillip Lim presented his Fall/Winter 2014 collection at New York Fashion Week. The looks were inspired by the idea of a "fun and culturally curious woman" whom Lim has named Soleil. According to Lim, "her world is somewhere between pop and culture." The fun, playful side of Soleil was easily spotted amid several patchwork outfits, including shearling "Transit" coats in burgundy and chocolate tones with removable collars and a bisque patchwork "Transit" vest. -62-
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New York Fashion Week Fall 2014 February 10, 2014 Editorial Team: Editor in Chief: Article Editor: Fashion Writer: Website:
Semant Jain, Ph.D. Elizabeth Nash Linda Zid www.sjchronicle.com
Design Team: Fashion Designer: Styling: Makeup Artist: Hairstyling: Nails: Shoes Accessories: Eyewear: Casting: Videography: Music Front of House: Production:
Phillip Lim Nancy Rohde Francelle Daly for NARS Cosmetics Paul Hanlon of Julian Watson Agency using Moroccanoil Elisa Ferri for NARS Cosmetics 3.1 Phillip Lim 3.1 Phillip Lim 3.1 Phillip Lim x Linda Farrow Daniel & Drew Secret Gallery Tender Night Sebastien Perrin KCD Palmer Schwartz Agency
Shearling featured prominently in the collection, as seen in a long cream-colored vest balanced over narrow fabric-andshearling slacks; a chestnut denim-style jacket; and a fuchsia vest that added a bright pop of color to the mostly fall tones.
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Photography Š Phillip Lim / Layout by SJ Chronicle
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"Windowpane" looks were also prevalent. Lim used them with classy, beautifully proporitoned elegance in pants, dresses, and oversized bomber jackets.
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Many of the models looked as if they had just come off the fashionable streets of New York, sporting trench coats in varying shades of brown, chunky shoes, natural makeup, and
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hair styled to look almost windblown. Several looks also featured wide belts, each adorned with a single very large cabochon. Photography Š Phillip Lim / Layout by SJ Chronicle
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Photography Š Phillip Lim / Layout by SJ Chronicle
Lim showed not only his expert tailoring but also his design intelligence in the way he used ruffles in some separates. Exaggerated size, angled placement, and combination with cable knit assured that these adornments appeared strongly feminine and sophisticated.
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Photography Š Phillip Lim / Layout by SJ Chronicle
The ruffled looks contrasted nicely with the more geometric (yet never static) appeal of some color-blocked styles, among them a striking ivory and black satin mid-length dress.
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3.1 Phillip Lim’s raison d’être is “providing beautiful everyday classics accented with a sense of madness.” This chic and cool collection gave ample evidence of Lim’s skill at creating very wearable yet elegant clothes that appeal equally well to the young and the youthful. The brand is available in over 400 boutiques and department stores across 50 countries, with flagship stores in New York, Los Angeles, Seoul, Tokyo, Singapore and Hong Kong. Photography © Phillip Lim / Layout by SJ Chronicle
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Although Lim opted for neutral tones in most of the pieces, hints of light turquoise and other blues also were sprinkled throughout the collection, as seen in a playful jean jacket, a suspender dress, and a bomber jacket shown with sleek open-toed booties in pale pink.
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Interview with Kati Stern of Venexiana New York Fashion Week Fall 2014 Pavilion, New York, NY February 8, 2014
VENEXIANA
Editorial Team: Editor in Chief: Semant Jain, Ph.D. Article Editor: Elizabeth Nash Fashion Writer: Linda Zid Interviewer: Michelle O. Dente Website: www.sjchronicle.com Design Team: Fashion Designer: Kati Stern Styling: Kathie Young & Associates, Inc., Willie Dean Makeup Artist: Dani Fonesca with Alcone Hairstyling: Philip Pelusi Salons Shoes Andrew Stevens, Carlos by Carlos Santana, Nina Lingerie: Shubue Couture Show Direction Judy Rice Music: Ben Brunnemer
Several gowns featured asymmetrical shoulders in varying styles. In this group were an elegant ebony gown with long sheer sleeves and another striking black look with gold accents. Photography Š Venexiana / Layout by SJ Chronicle
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On February 8, 2014, Venexiana showcased her Fall 2014 looks during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York that mixed a little bit of punk with old-time movie glamor. In a backstage interview with SJ Chronicle's Michelle O. Dente, Hungarian-born designer Kati Stern said that "punk rock tapes are running continously" in the background when she designs. But she added that after working some long hours,
"when I get home, it's so late already that all I do is turn on cable with the old films. ... Whatever is running there is what I watch." Coming across "Top Hat" with Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers dancing cheek to cheek "started a whole chain reaction." Many of Stern’s sleeker looks played with proportions, juxtaposing bulkier faux fur shrugs in varying shades of blues, browns, and blacks with shimmering gowns.
Photography Š Venexiana / Layout by SJ Chronicle
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In addition to showing shoulders, some of the gowns featured plunging necklines and cutouts, including one gold look with a heart-shaped cutout
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Photography Š Venexiana / Layout by SJ Chronicle
Embellishments also played a big part in the collection, with many of the gowns featuring vintage-looking adornments.
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Photography Š Venexiana / Layout by SJ Chronicle
A rather playful slithering serpent figured in some adornments.
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“Top Hat” inspired not only the gowns but also the hair, which models wore twisted up into braided buns. But Stern said that another movie icon, Marlene Dietrich, inspired the makeup: smoky eyes and dark lipstick.
Photography © Venexiana / Layout by SJ Chronicle
The movie inspiration is actually a departure for Stern. "90 percent of the time,” she told SJ Chronicle, “the inspiration is the fabric." Fabrics, though, still played a starring role in this collection, as seen in some of Stern’s rich sequined pieces and luxurious velvety gowns in colors ranging from a muted mint to a burnt orange.
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Photography © Venexiana / Layout by SJ Chronicle
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Photography Š Venexiana / Layout by SJ Chronicle
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For some of the 68 gowns in the collection, Stern used prints, ranging from muted florals to bolder looks, to add spice to the mix.
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Stern also played with dramatic trains of varying lengths, as seen in these citrine, seaweed green, and opalescent gowns. Photography Š Venexiana / Layout by SJ Chronicle
Offering exquisite fabrics, focused tailoring, and witty embellishments, Venexiana is the go-to fashion house for rock-n-roll haute couture. Launched in 2003 by Stern, the collection is sold at Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, and other leading retailers around the world. Born and educated in Europe, Stern is also a professional architect, a classically
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trained pianist, and a flamenco dancer. Stern told SJ Chronicle how the line got its name: "I live in Venice part of the year and Venexiana is the Italian 18th century pronunciation of 'Venetian woman.' So this is my tribute for my beloved Venice." See more of her designs on Tumblr.
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PARIS FASHION WEEK A/W 2014
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Editorial Team Editor in Chief: Article Editor: Fashion Writer: Website:
Semant Jain, Ph.D. Elizabeth Nash Michelle O. Dente www.sjchronicle.com
Design Team Designer: Makeup: Hairstyling: Nails:
Kristy Caylor Tom Pecheux for M.A.C. Cosmetics Orlando Pita Kure Bazaar Paris
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MAIYET Paris, France: Drawing inspiration from Frida Kahlo’s strong, sensuous, and unflinching selfportraits, Kristy Caylor of Maiyet presented a collection she called “A Look Inside” on March 1 during Paris Fashion Week AW 2014. Just as Kahlo looked inside herself to create her selfportraits, Caylor looked inside the creative process by using a graphic pattern based on the punch cards used to create hand-woven jacquard patterns. She further extended the “looking inside” idea with pieces that incorporated sheer fabrics or very deep U-necks. Reflecting Kahlo’s blend of sensitivity and strength, Caylor presented both sleek, body conscious feminine pieces and as well as jackets and trousers, some showing a strong menswear influence. And in keeping with the brand’s emphasis on supporting artisanal craftsmanship, the designer used hand-knit and hand-woven linen and silk, handembroidered embellishments, and handmade earrings and rings.
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Photography © Maiyet / Layout by SJ Chronicle
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Photography Š Maiyet / Layout by SJ Chronicle
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Shiny, sexy patent leather added gloss to a mostly muted palette and suggested a self-reflecting mirror. A quilted black jacket and button-down shirt tempered a patent leather straight skirt. Caylor slipped a hand-woven, deep Uneck dress under a soft patent leather blazer and showed a cropped patent leather bomber jacket over a sleeveless tunic and hand-embroidered skirt. Patent leather also appeared as the contouring element on a long-sleeved black dress.
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Menswear-inspired styles included wide-lapel blazers in black and in a jacquard fabric with a button-down shirt, skinny silk tie, and handwoven tweed pants. A shawl-like vest added a feminine touch to a long shirtdress, and a hand-embroidered, cropped cross-over jacket added a masculine touch to a U-neck slip top in deep burgundy worn with a cross-over skirt.
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For the brightest touches of color, Caylor used gold and yellow. Gold animated a punch-card pattern on a draped flange dress in hand-cut silk and pointed up geometric shapes on a dress with gently rounded shoulders. Gorgeous yellow fur playfully accented a black cropped cross-over jacket and a camisole.
Photography Š Maiyet / Layout by SJ Chronicle
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Photography Š Maiyet / Layout by SJ Chronicle
Fox fur appeared as a removable accent placed at the hipline of a hand-knit ribbed sweater and draped delicately over one shoulder of a long cardigan. A vest with a sumptuous gray fur collar added warmth over a hand-embroidered shirt dress, and a fur collar added elegance to a sheer black dress shown with lingerie shorts and a patent leather corset bra top.
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For a dramatic, feminine quality, stunning gowns were classy and alluring with flowing shapes, hand-embroidery, and soft black fabric. Model Charlene Hogger wore a deep U-neck dress with a handembroidered corset bra top. Other models appeared in a flowing gown with a deep U-neck, a hand-embroidered corset bra gown, and a hand-woven draped flange gown.
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Makeup and hair worked together to enhance the polished, bohemian-urban look of the collection. Makeup artist Tom Pecheux gave models glossy metallic eyelids and omitted eyeliner in the bottom center for a more eye-opening effect. A facial massage with Rodin Olio Lusso Oil and a drop of Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair added to the foundation created a dewy look, completed with a M.A.C. lipstick called “Myself.” Hairstylist Orlando Pita kept the feeling going with casually sophisticated hair in varying lengths, straightened and parted softly.
Photography © Maiyet / Layout by SJ Chronicle
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Kristy Caylor serves as president and creative director of Maiyet, which she founded in 2011 along with social justice advocates Daniel Lubetzky and Paul van Zyl. Named for the Egyptian goddess of truth and harmony, Maiyet incorporates artisanal craftsmanship from Kenya, India, Indonesia, Italy, Peru, Mongolia, and Colombia. In addition to the goal of supporting dignified employment, prosperity, and stability in these countries, the brand seeks to sustain and advance these countries’ traditions of fine craftsmanship. This pioneering young luxury brand was unique at Paris Fashion Week not only for its simple beauty and bon chic but also for its ethical perspective on the fashion business. Maiyet can no doubt look forward to many successful seasons dressing the modern bohemian woman who appreciates special pieces with a special human story behind them.
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CHRISTIAN WIJNANTS
Photography © Christian Wijnants, Style, Style / Layout by SJ Chronicle
Christian Wijnants’ Fall 2014 collection, which hit the runway at Paris Fashion Week on February 27th, highlighted the Antwerp-based designer's fascination with the work of Japanese artist Fujita. Fujita's subtle use of material and soft colors inspired Wijnants to create a range of textural patchworks. He said, "The prints were developed specifically for color blocking and -88-
then translated into knitwear." That subdued color blocking was evident throughout many of Wijnants’ pieces, from dresses in luxurious textiles to self-assured jumpsuit styles to a snakeskin-esque top paired with denim, all shown with above-the-elbow gloves in white, black, tan, or softly colored leather.
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Paris Fashion Week FW 2014 February 27, 2014 Editorial Team: Editor in Chief: Article Editor: Fashion Writer: Website:
Semant Jain, Ph.D. Elizabeth Nash Linda Zid www.sjchronicle.com
Design Team: Fashion Designer: Styling: Makeup Artist: Hairstyling: Casting: Music: Public Relations:
Christian Wijnants Lotta Volkova Inge Grognard, M.A.C. Cosmetics Christoph Hasenbein Corinne Liscia Senjan Jansen KCD
Photography © Style / Layout by SJ Chronicle
Wijnants playfully mixed the eloquent knitwear he’s known for with tweeds in various weaves. He tucked a sleeveless knit cowlneck top into comfortably cut tweed trousers detailed with snaps and a string tie at the waist, and he partnered the two fabrics in several mix-and-match shorts ensembles. Wijnants made one of these ensembles cozy by topping the knit separates -89-
with a chunky tweed coat gently rounded in the shoulders and cut with an unrestricting fit. For another shorts ensemble, he worked a thinner tweed in a very soft pink into a structured sleeveless coat and layered it over tweed shorts and a longsleeved button-front blouse. A hint of the coat’s pink softened the all-over pattern of the blouse.
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Wijnants played up some of his colorblocking with a pop of a bolder rust color. He used the color to paint an exuberant bandeau-like swath across the bodice of chunky knits and gave it center stage in a vibrant strapless knit top and soft culottes.
Photography Š Christian Wijnants, Style, Style / Layout by SJ Chronicle
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Wijnants explained, "the yarns and knit structures, fabrics and techniques—like padding and neoprene—were used to evoke the warmth and comfort of a wool blanket." Models did indeed look both graceful and relaxed in softly colored quilted ensembles, combined with comfortable-looking boots, retro pulled-back hair, and natural makeup, with long gloves adding dramatic flair.
Photography © Christian Wijnants / Layout by SJ Chronicle
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In keeping with one of the season’s trends, Wijnants featured silver metallic in skirts, jackets, and shorts. He took the sharp edge off the metallic pieces by quilting them or pairing them with soft pink, gold, or gray tops and shorts. In one outfit, a highly structured coat in a lovely marigold hue tempered loose, silvery shorts. -92-
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Models looked both graceful and relaxed in softly colored quilted ensembles complimented by comfortable-looking boots, retro pulled-back hair, and mostly natural makeup. Several models sported neon-colored eyebrows in orange, blue, and yellow. In these looks, the long gloves added a bit of dramatic flair. Born in Brussels, Christian Wijnants moved to Antwerp in 1996 to study fashion design at the Royal Academy of Fine Art. After working with Dries Van Noten and Angelo Tarlazzi, he launched his eponymous label in 2003. It is now sold at 100 boutiques and department stores worldwide, including Barneys, Harvey Nichols, Joyce, Opening Ceremony, Tomorrowland, Printemps, and Graanmarkt 13. His website has more of his designs.
Photography Š Christian Wijnants / Layout by SJ Chronicle
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Balmain’s Fall/Winter 2014 show took place February 27 at the Hôtel de Ville in Paris. This season, creative director Olivier Rousteing took Balmain down a dramatically different path. Instead of looking to the past for inspiration, he found his muse in the world around him, “the here and now” as he put it, “the world that my generation and I inhabit.” Drawing inspiration from the street, with its different cultures and diverse voices, Rousteing offered a very personal and stunningly original interpretation of safari chic, with a tribal theme and hip-hop influences. Wielding a clear vision and evident strength of mind, the young designer managed to craft these potentially disparate elements into an enticing and dramatic collection. Leather and metal radiated strength and power; cinched waists and strongly defined hourglass silhouettes transmitted ultra femininity.
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Photography 漏 Balmain / Layout by SJ Chronicle
Paris Fashion Week Fall Winter 2014/15 H么tel de Ville, Paris February 27, 2014 Editorial team: Editor in Chief: Article Editor: Fashion Writer: Website: -95-
Semant Jain, Ph.D. Elizabeth Nash Sophia El-Hayek www.sjchronicle.com
Design team: Designer: Olivier Rousteing Makeup artist: Tom Pecheux Hair stylist: Sam McKnight
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Patterned peplum skirts and tops brought elegance to the safari-inspired styles, giving the illusion of a perfect feminine figure by exaggerating the hips and drawing attention to the waist. This silhouette softened and refined the bold olive green and black looks.
Photography © Maiyet / Layout by SJ Chronicle
Animal prints, a dominant element in the show, added further nuance to Rousteing’s safari vision. Leopard print put a fun spin on tough leather looks for an exotic take on rocker chic. These edgy looks celebrate the Balmain woman of today as stylish and confident.
Photography © Maiyet / Layout by SJ Chronicle
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Photography © Maiyet / Layout by SJ Chronicle
Intricately woven tops reminiscent of ethnic crafts were striking when paired with a strong contrasting skirt. These weaves, ranging from solid to sheer, challenged the lines between fashion and art. Dark tights contributed to the layered, covered look that Rousteing wanted for this collection: “The Balmain women, with her confident sophistication and strongly styled clothing, [doesn’t need to] show skin to draw attention.”
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DIGITAL
At eighteen, Olivier Rousteing left law school to study fashion at I’Ecole Superieure Des Arts et Techniques de la Mode in Paris. Upon graduating in 2003, he joined Roberto Cavalli, where he spent five years learning the business before moving to Balmain as assistant to creative director Christophe Decarnin. Two years later, Decarnin left the luxury house and the 26-year old Rousteing took his place, becoming one of the few black men to serve at the top of a major fashion house. See more of Rousteing’s work at the Balmain website. Photography © Maiyet / Layout by SJ Chronicle
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LFW A/W 2014
Colored furs paired with printed skirts made quite a statement on the runway. These dyed fox furs reinvent traditional winter fur pieces. Instead of dark neutrals for winter, lively shades of yellow and orange break the barrier between winter and summer colors. An unexpected pop of warm color in the winter represents the freedom and exuberance of the modern, free-spirited generation that Rousteing celebrated in this collection.
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Magazine for young vanguard fashion & art photography • www.superior-mag.com
coming out on april 4th 2014
# APRIL 2014