What’s Actually Selling When Everything Is Trending?

Unpacking the success of Balletcore, Bikercore, Normcore and Gorpcore with considerations for future assortments.

Hyperfemininity is poised to be the underpinning trend in 2023, putting ballerina aesthetics front and center for the year. Plus, its strong runway presence indicates it’s only just getting warmed up. Ribbons and bows have emerged as a key detail for designers, cementing tie-front tops for SS23, which can be refreshed with floral corsages for FW23. The traditional baby pastel colorway will hold firm. However, directional retailers can tap into the darker hues creeping through, repositioning the trend as the grungier Ballerina Sleaze aesthetic –think corsets, frilly skirts and crochet.

Bikercore

What’s Selling?

The subculture, which counts Kim Kardashian and Rosalía as fans, has been part of consumer lexicons for almost a year, helping boost demand for accompanying products. Leather trousers for men moved well at Zara and Reserved, while for women, sell outs outpaced mini skirts by 56 percent. As interest in footwear swings back to favor smarter and more glamorous silhouettes, the number of biker boots selling out of majority SKUs over the past three months dwindled by 28 percent YoY.

(fig. 2)

Should You Invest?

Bikercore is yet to peak, with leather becoming more commonplace for spring assortments. At the end of 2022, it was predicted that the moto jacket would be the hero piece of SS23. Over the past three months, this style saw the highest increase in sell outs YoY across the Bikercore assortment. The recent men’s shows also showed a shift toward cleaner racing styles over traditional biker jackets, as seen at Hermès. For women’s pre-fall, lace overtook leather as the standout material, suggesting the trend may run out of steam toward the end of the year for this market. While sell outs recently lagged for biker boots across both genders, they were a staple for menswear designers at FW23, so trend-led retailers will want to keep them in circulation.

Normcore

What’s Selling?

A stripped-back aesthetic has made a quiet comeback amid the post-pandemic buzz, fuelling demand for the OG “core” popularized by unfussy wardrobe staples and 90s nostalgia. Straight-leg jeans are continuing to sell well, especially in womenswear. However, this iteration of Normcore will be defined by baggy silhouettes, which outpaced straight fits by 27 percent. A major departure from Normcore’s first era, white sneakers are dropping off consumer’s radar, registering a 17 percent decline in sell outs YoY. (fig. 3)

Should You Invest?

A 70 percent likelihood for a recession in the US in 2023 is predicted, while UK spending power is expected to fall even further this year. Fashion mirrors the social and economic landscape, with a shift away from Alessandro Michele’s signature maximalism following his departure from Gucci being a sign of the times. Minimalism received a smarter, cozier facelift in menswear in the form of relaxed tailored styles with textured layers and oversized proportions, such as long top coats and chunky knits. For women, nods to the 90s will overtake Y2K references, focusing on bandeau dresses, branded tees and minimal accessories to create a clean, pared-back aesthetic –just don’t call it “Recessioncore.”

Gorpcore

What’s Selling?

A stalwart trend for several seasons, Gorpcore styles have maintained a strong performance at mass retailers. Cargo pants are the ubiquitous standout of the utilitarian uniform, registering a 126 percent increase in majority SKU sell outs YoY. While skirt versions emerged as a hot product, trousers outsold them seven-fold. Despite a slow start to winter, puffy and quilted jackets rose in popularity, while sell outs of fleeces noted a more minor sales increase YoY. Sell outs for hiker boots jumped less than 4 percent in line with the 2023 footwear trends to watch, calling out trail sneakers as an outdoor-friendly replacement. (fig. 4)

Should You Invest?

Gorpcore showed signs of slowing down on the men’s runway. Designers instead moved the trend in a more military-inspired direction, favoring MA-1 bombers and aviator coats. The appearance of cargos at both Pre-Fall 2023 and Fall 2023 runways secured continued demand for this silhouette, which was showcased with camo print and technical pockets with zips and poppers. The supporting grunge themes point to the trend evolving into a more dystopian-fuelled aesthetic, timely as the post-apocalyptic series The Last of Us reaches viral success. Refresh your assortment with a workwear influence on boots, jackets and overshirts alongside relaxed check shirting.