CLIENT # 10 - 2 014 BRITISH
Men’s Style Guide
Farah Vintage D.Hedral Purified Burberry Casely-Hayford Jimmy Choo Tony O’Connor Marks & Spencer Les Benjamins Alexander McQueen Kris Van Assche Sandro Tommy Hilfiger Marc Jacobs Saint Laurent Richard James Hentsch Man
RICKI HALL BY IAN COLE
ZINE T H E
Z I N E
S T A N D
HIGH SUMMER 2014 / 010
Contents SIDETRACKED P004 PURIFIED FOOTWEAR SS/15 P014 RICKI HALL P022 LES BENJAMINS SS/15 P038 GOING PLACES P046 EDITOR’S PICS: LUXURY FOOTWEAR P054 INTERVIEW M&S’s TONY O’CONNOR P058 THE VIOLINISTS P062 D.HEDRAL SS/14 P080 AUSTIN AT NEVS P088 NIALL AT FM P092 LUCIEN AT PREMIER P096 ABRE LOS OJOS P098
COVER CREDITS PHOTOGRAPHY: IAN COLE (www.iancole.org) MODEL: RICKI HALL AT NEVS, LONDON FASHION EDITOR: SUZIE STREET GROOMING: SANDRA BERMINGHAM (USING BUMBLR & BUMBLE) PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT: TOBY CORTON RICKI WEARS WHITE SHIRT BY FARAH VINTAGE PUBLISHED BY CLIENT MAGAZINE / PROJECT TEN www.project-ten.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: IAN COLE LONDON FASHION EDITOR: CRISTINA PLANELLES GUEST FASHION EDITOR: SUZIE STREET STAFF WRITER: KATRICE DUSTIN GUEST PHOTOGRAPHERS: ANDREE MARTIS & DEMIAN DUPUIS, ANNA VICTORIA BEST, BEX DAY, IAN COLE, JORGE ARBERAS, SAM COPELAND & VIC LENTAIGNE. GUEST STYLISTS: ANNIE MAY, NAZ & KUSI at TZARKUSI, SANDRA ESCALA, SUZIE STREET, VICTORIA GREGORY & VIOLETA COMELLA info@clientmagazine.co.uk www.clientmagazine.co.uk www.clientmagazine.tumblr.com www.instagram.com/clientmagazine www.twitter.com/clientmagazine www.project-ten.com
Client Style Guide #10
Sidetracked Photography Bex Day Styling NAZ & KUSI at TZARKUSI Make-up Amy Coneley using Sisley Hair Sven Bayerbach using Bumble&Bumble Photographer’s assistant Juan Jose Ortiz Models Alex Sinclair and Alex Blamire at FM Models
Jacket, Top & Trousers by Matthew Miller Silk Scarf by Richard James
Fur Coat by Alan Taylor Roll-neck Jumper by John Smedley
Coat by Gieves & Hawkes Roll-neck Knitted Jumper by Topman Design T-shirt by Hentsch Man
Alex S. wears Camouflage Jacket & PVC embossed Trousers by Martine Rose T-shirt by Hentsch Man Alex B wears Polo t-shirt by Gavin Watson X Dr Martens / Trousers by YMC
Coat by Gieves & Hawkes Roll-neck Knitted Jumper by Topman Design T-shirt by Hentsch Man
Wool Striped Jacket, Waistcoat & sleeveless Jumper by Casely-Hayford Checked Trousers by Agi & Sam Hat by T. Lipop / Shoes Purified by Craig Green
Alex S. wears Corduroy Blazer & Roll-neck Jumper by Dunhill Checked trousers by Agi & Sam Trainers by Vans Alex B. wears double-breasted Blazer by Dunhill Mohair Jumper by Richard James Trousers by Topman
10
Printed Jacket, sleeveless reflective Jacket worn under by Agi and Sam Shirt by Agi and Sam Trousers by Topman Design / Trainers by Adidas
Sheepskin Coat by Dunhill Printed Jumper by Blood Brother Denim printed Trousers by Katie Eary
Alex B wears Monochrome Patchwork Roll-neck Jumper & Grey Mohair Lumberjack Shirt by Nicole Farhi Trousers by E.Tautz / Trainers by Adidas / Alex S wears Leather Duffle Coat by Topman Design / Panel Top by E. Tautz Roll-neck Jumper worn under by Dunhill / Trousers by Topman Design / Trainers by Nike
PURIFIED SS/15 FOOTWEAR
Produced in Portugal and the United Kingdom, Purified’S SS/14-15 collection is inspired by Scandinavian Androgyny, Japanese Visual Kei, and New York Hipsters. Created by Dominic Webster and Simon See, the collection features heavy soled Derby’s and Boots in high-shine leather, contrasted by two new additions born from thir continuing collaboration with London designer Craig Green. Only in their fourth season, Purified are stocked in some high-flying places that include Dover Street Market, Neta-Porter, Opening Ceremony, Luisa Via Roma and Storm. Based on uncompromised manufacturing quality and intuitive design, Purified is a brand that is producing footwear that will out-live the seasons. Expect high-shine leathers, printed pony skin, soft lizard stamps and heavy rubber and leather mixed souls - funcional yet cool. www.purifiedfootwear.com
14
18
www.purifiedfootwear.com
21
Quintessentially Ricki
Photography by Ian Cole Fashion Editor Suzie Street Grooming by Sandra Bermingham using Bumble & Bumble Model: Ricki Hall at Nevs Photo Assistant Toby Corton All fashion by Farah Vintage (unless stated otherwise)
Total-look by Farah Vintage 22
Total-look by Farah Vintage except Hat Ricki’s own
Total-look by Farah Vintage except Sunglasses by Diesel
28
Total-look by Farah Vintage excpet watch by Larsson & Jennings Shoes by Oliver Spencer
INTERVIEW
who is RICKI HALL? INTERVIEW BY IAN COLE Editor-in-Chief 1. Welcome to CLIENT, Ricki, we are pleased to finally have you on the front cover. Let’s start from the beginning - where are you originally from and where do you reside now?
As long as they are cool then I’m cool with it. It can get pretty intense sometimes especially if I’m in a pub and they have had a few shandys, some get quite touchy feely ha.
I’m originally from sunny Wolverhampton, moved to London nearly 4 years ago. I’ve lived in quite a few different Burroughs in London but I currently reside in Brixton.
8. You’ve been hailed as having the most influential haircut in Britain (by Esquire Magazine) and the trademark beard and tattoo’s go hand in hand. Is that still just another day in the office for you or does it still give you a wee smile in the morning to know this?
2. Tough question - but where do you prefer to be out of the two?
I don’t really think that much about it. It was amazing to be hailed that and to get the cover of Esquire Weekly, to promote that was incredible. Kevin Luchmun cuts my hair and I get the beard cut by Lochlan at Murdocks of London.
I will always have love for Wolverhampton but I do prefer London. 3. It’s been a BUSY year, tell us some of the client’s you’ve been working with this year that you are most proud of?
9. At CLIENT we believe in the saying ‘classic never dies’ and this appears to be at the core of your personal image in many ways. Trends aside, are you pleased that your masculinity and unique quirks have been embraced in this way?
Shooting the Diesel campaign in New York was a fun one and where I met my good friend Nik Hampshire. I also filmed the David Beckham H&M commercial for his underwear range - was a high to work with him on that, and obviously getting the CLIENT cover, I’m proud of that.
Of course, I’ve always been happy about this. I loved the fact that men were swerving away from the feminine look and dressing like, smelling like and looking like a proper fucking man. I’ve always said you can’t beat a man who smells manly, dresses sharp and is a bit cocky, a bit like Del Boy from Only Fools & Horses.
4. Before the world of modelling and social media, tell me what you spent your time doing. I heard you were a mechanic?
10. Would you say your family help keep your feet on the ground?
Yeah that’s right. I finished school at 16 and went to work for my Dad at his motorcycle shop and garage in Wolves, I do miss them days sometimes. It was a simpler time haha.
For sure, everytime I go back to Wolverhampton my family and friends treat me exactly the same as when I lived there 4 years back. It’s really nice to come back and hang out and not really have to worry about anything for a few days. It’s refreshing.
5. So how did you get into modelling? A friend of mine invited me to London for the weekend and as I was walking out of Topman I got approached by a model scout, who took me to Nevs Model and the rest is history.
11. Are you still friends with old mates from Wolverhampton from back in the day?
6. I think i told you when we met, but when we made you Model of the Week on CLIENT’s website in March 2013, you were the no.1 post on our site, week in week out for over three months. Nobody has even come close to that on our site. How does it make you feel to know you have such a hugely influential fan base?
Yeah, I always make sure I can get a couple nights out with my mates when I get back home. It’s nice going to see the Wolves play, have a few beers then go for a curry after. 12. Tell us a bit about Toyshades Toyshades is a company who got in touch with me to do a collection with them. I designed a few pairs of glasses to test the water and turns out people really liked them. They are affordable and stylish. They are great for holidays cos if you do lose them or break them it’s not like you’ve thrown £150+ down the savvy. Visit: www.toyshades.com
I feel very honoured, it’s a great feeling. I have a great fan base and the majority are really positive towards me. You will always get the odd dick, but if you aren’t pissing someone off along the line you’re not doing it right haha. 7. How do you deal with internet stalkers?
13. Music is always been very important to me, i spent
32
14 years DJing, and i know how much you love music. Does DJing still give you a buzz and are you getting the chance to play music that really gets you going? I adore DJ’ing. The fact that I can play what I want and see the reactions on peoples faces when I play a certain record is a trip. I’m big into 60’s/70’s and 80’s rock and 80’s synth. Bands like The Jam,The Cure, Joy Division, Depeche Mode, T-Rex etc. 14. Right at this moment, what is more appealing to you - a ‘lads’ rowdy holiday or a quiet one on a secluded beach with the other half of Ricki? I’m not into the rowdy lads holiday. I get a bit anxious in those situations. Never been that Ibiza kind of guy. Don’t really fit in with it. My ideal holiday is somewhere in the snow, a log cabin and a roaring fire with a good whiskey and the smiths playing in the background. I would love to go see the Aurora Borealis too.
15. Can you tell us any secrets about what we can expect from Ricki over the next few months? I’ve started doing a bit more acting and film stuff etc, but that’s all I can really say at this moment in time. 16. Finally, we’ve learnt a lot about you already, but tell us in your own words, who is Ricki Hall? Just a normal ex mechanic who enjoys a pint, a roast dinner and Super Nintendo. I like to keep things simple. Very special thanks to Ricki for taking the time to be interviewed, to Suzie Street for her last minute wonders and also Emily at Nevs for all her help. *Ricki also has a new collection coming out with P&Co in a couple months. It’s 1950’s American motorcycle themed. I’m sure we will feature when it’s out, but you can keep posted by visiting www.pand.co
33
37
Les Benjamins
SS/15 Les Benjamins was created by taking inspiration from ‘Les Jeunes Turcs’ or The Young Turks– a collective of young intellectuals who were joined together through their belief of ‘Union and Progress’ during the period of Turkey’s Ottoman Empire.
This is the attitude that creator Bunyamin Aydin wanted to convey when starting the brand – a distinctive emulation through clothing of the rebellious yet defiant spirit of youth. The Istanbul based label managed to create quite a storm with their first collection and, after only their second season, already boasts an impressive list of global stockists which currently includes Harvey Nichols, Galerie Lafayette, Browns, Saks and Bloomingdales. Their second offering for Spring/Summer 2015 contains a concise mix of easy to wear and refined tailored pieces which help to demonstrate a clear consistency from their A/W 14 collection while ultimately managing to stay within their brand ethos. Bomber jackets, shirts and tees are seen in a new camouflage print amongst hoodies with printed branding, while satirical collages of popular cultural icons are cleverly emblazed upon their now signature graphic tees. The monochromatic tones of the collection are infused with touches of pale yellow and dark green camo on structured jackets and baggy pocket shorts, while zipped-knee trousers become the ultimate standout piece. Les Benjamins Spring/Summer 2015 collection successfully fuses contemporary menswear with a definitive street wear edge while remaining truly wearable and providing a defiantly unique aesthetic. Written by Katrice Dustin, Staff Writer
61 41
www.lesbenjamins.com
GOING PL ACES
Photography Sam Copeland / Styling Victoria Gregory Prop Stylist Marisha Green / Grooming Lou Box Models Dylan Hartigan at Models 1 / Miles Hurley at Next James Alexander at AMCK / John Meadows at Supa Jackson Ghale at Supa / Ben Jordan at AMCK
46
Dylan wears Knitted Polo T-shirt by Joseph Painted Splattered Jeans by Huntergather Chelsea Boots by Jimmy Choo
Miles wears White Shirt by Pringle of Scotland / Sweater by McQ Alexander McQueen Velvet Trousers by Caruso / Shoes by Christian Louboutin
James wears Coat by Casely-Hayford Black Trousers by McQ Alexander43 McQueen / Shoes by John Varvatos
John wears Knitted Sleeveless Top by Kris Van Assche Trousers by Baartmans and Siegel Shoes by Kris Van Assche
Jackson wears Coat by Blk Dnm / Shirt by Richard James Patterned Trousers by Joseph Shoes by Jimmy Choo
Ben wears Cream Roll-neck by Caruso / Jacket by Baartmans and Siegel Grey Trousers by John Varvatos Shoes by Jimmy Choo
Editor’s Picks
Diesel Screw-Studded Kalling Derbys
> Low-top Patent leather > Silver-tone screw-style studs > Pointed toe > Scalloped trim at welt > Tonal stitching > Rubber sole > Made in Portugal
Burberry Prorsum Black Leather Quarter Brogues
> Low-top buffed leather > Round wingtip toe. > Tonal oxford-style lace-up closure > Heavy black sole > Tonal stitching > Made in Italy
54
Editor’s Picks
Dolce & Gabbana Black Buffed Leather Classic Derbys
> Low-top buffed leather > Round toe > Tonal lace-up closure > Tonal sole and stitching > Made in Italy
Marsèll Black Patent Leather Zucchina Derbys
> Low-top patent leather > Round toe > Tonal derby-style lace-up closure > Tonal stitching > Made in Italy
Editor’s Picks
Alexander McQueen Black Leather Longwing Brogues
> Low-top leather in black > Light scuffing effect throughout > Round wingtip toe > Derby-style lace-up closure > Pull-loop at heel collar > Heavy treaded silver-tone sole > Tonal stitching > Made in Italy
PS by Paul Smith Black Leather Starling Oxfords
> Low-top buffed leather > Navy lace-up closure > Signature striped inset flag at heel collar > Black sole and stitching > Made in Portugal
56
Editor’s Picks
Ann Demeulemeester Black Leather Heavy Sole Derbys
> Low-top leather in black > Round toe > Tonal derby-style lace-up closure > Pull-loop at heel collar > Tan and white layered welt > Stacked foam rubber sole: > Made in Italy
Diesel Black Gold Black Patent Zip-Up Derby
> Patent leather low-top in black > Almond toe > Tonal lace-up closure > Zip closures at eyerow > Tonal stitching > Made in Italy
available from www.ssense.com
M&S Collections
Best of British SS/15
M&S SS/15
Tony O’Connor joined Marks & Spencer in 2008 as Head of Design for Menswear. His vast experience and vision worked to create a strong, contemporary and masculine menswear collection for M&S. Tony studied for a degree in fashion design at Newcastle University and his career in retail began at Next as an assistant designer where he worked for 11 years, working his way up to Head of Design. In 2001 he joined Moss Bros as their Creative Director where he worked across their franchise department, with brands including Hugo, Canali, and Armani. Our London Fashion Editor, Cristina Planelles interviewed Tony during LC:M and talked all things British... Tony O’Connor / Head of Design (Menswear) Marks & Spencer
“I follow runway shows as I’m interested in what we do in fashion in this country. I know people who design and I like to see their shows.”
60
M&S SS/15
INTERVIEW BY CRISTINA PLANELLES London Contributing Fashion Editor
1.The Best of British line by M&S was shown in a model presentation at LC:M in June 2014 and it was really successful. Tell us about the experience The experience has been really good for us, because not only did we show at the Conde Nast college, which is a great London venue, but we also had fantastic support from the press. That has been great because it can be quite scary, we’re a mainstream brand and for the Best of British collection we work with our own archive as well as with lots of British mills and manufacturers to produce a premium line with a signature British style. It’s either Irish Linen or British Wool and then we get it made in the UK, so we try to keep a complete British style from the fabric, to how we make it to how we style it. I think what is exciting for me is to get these guys looking kind of cool and modern in quite classical clothes, but with new twists. 2. The collection is made entirely in the UK, how is British manufacturing different from others? The way that it works is, there is a lot of traditional techniques still being used in how sleeves are made and how different kinds of canvases are crafted. So there’s a lot that are kind of traditional and they feel different, the suits feel very easy to wear but they still feel quite elegant, and that’s in the craftsmanship that we still get in the UK - that comes through in what we’ve done with suits, what we’ve done with shoes, what we’ve done with shirts and knitwear. We still work with some outerwear pieces, but there’s just a lot of strong tradition in the UK, it’s quite nice to rework these traditions into the right modern shapes. 3. This is a premium line with high end finishing but also an accessible price. Tell us about it We do work with the best fabric mills and manufacturers in the UK, producing suits for £700, with the fine attention to detail usually found on premium suiting. For me, that is the accessibility, but I love the idea with the collection that they feel quite like investment pieces as well. 4. Can you explain to us what is The Best of British Line concept?
It’s our own brand, it’s our archive, but it’s reworked for today. It’s got retro roots, but it still feels relevant and modern. I think that gives it its newness. 5. How would describe the M&S menswear customer? The profile of the M&S customer, has a very broad base, from a guy who is buying his first suit to a man who is in his 60’s or 70’s who is retired. So we’ve got a very broad spectrum. I think where Best of British comes in, we’re offering classicism for younger guys and possibly the older guys as well. But we do have a very wide customer base, that’s why the range is so vast, that’s why it’s really exciting to make sure we can do things at LC:M. 6. The menswear industry is growing so fast for the under 35 market. What do you think is the main reason? I think there is more of an appetite with menswear because more people are conscious of fashion. I also think guys are getting more confident in their own style, so they want to be trying new things all the time, I think that is why there is more of an appetite in menswear for style than ever before. 7. Where is your inspiration for the upcoming SS/15 coming from? I got that from our archive. M&S has an archive in Leeds where we can see what the company did in the 80’s, 70’s the 60’s. I went to the 70’s archive, and I looked at what I would call sexy tailoring. That’s where it came from. 8. Tell us about your hobby as a photographer and runway fan? My new hobby at the moment is actually my new baby boy! His name is Bram and he’s nine months old. He keeps me very busy but I love photography too. I follow runway shows as I’m interested in what we do in fashion in this country. I know people who design and I like to see their shows. I’m very interested in how we work
Special thanks to Tony O’Connor for his time and M&S for their co-operation
61
The Violinists Photography Andree Martis & Demian Dupuis Styling Sandra Escala Make-up & Hair Katharina Nitzpon using Moroccanoil, Dior Cosmetics & MyHair Barcelona Models Jake Shortall at View Management & Kristoffer Hasslevall at Traffic Models
opposite Jacket by Hugo Boss Shirt by Sandro this page Suit & Sweater by Sandro Shoes by Tod’s
Jacket & Shirt by Marciano Guess
Total look by Tommy Hilfiger
Suit by Ermenegildo Zegna Foulard by BeckSรถndergaard
Suit by Tommy Hilfiger LeatherJacket by Sandro
Shirt by Hermès
Total look by Tommy Hilfiger
Suit by Lanvin Shirt by Hugo Boss Bow Tie by AndrĂŠs Sarda
Shirt by Saint Laurent Cardigan by Balenciaga
Suit by Saint Laurent Shirt by Tom Ford
opposite Suit by Lanvin Shirt by Hugo Boss Bow Tie by AndrĂŠs Sarda this page Shirt by Saint Laurent Cardigan by Balenciaga
opposite Shirt by Tom Ford Pants by Saint Laurent this page Total look by Marc Jacobs
Shirt by Saint Laurent Bow Tie by Tommy Hilfiger
Photography Ian Cole Model Bjorn Buckey at PRM Models Grooming Shell Sullivan All underwear by D.Hedral SS/14
82
85
d.hedral ss.14
D.Hedral is famed for it’s figurehugging underwear and swimwear. They worked with many pattern cutters to find the perfect fit, developing the patented AngelFit Technology. Designed with both athletic and fashion conscious people in mind, the incredible geometric and elastic properties adapt perfectly to fit and complement the curves of the body. All underwear by D.Hedral SS/14 Items shown: Seemless Briefs 92% Polyamide, 8% Elastane Bi-colour, with contrast trim Multicoloured microfibre logo elastic, with the patented Anglefit Technology
www.dhedral.com
Austin Photography Vic Lentaigne Model Austin at Nevs Models
88
Niall Photography Vic Lentaigne Model Niall at FM Models
92
Lucien
Photography Anna Victoria Best Styling Amie May Hair Noriko at Untitled Artists Make-up Nicola Moore Brittin using Radical Skincare
Q&A Name Lucian Clifforth Age 20 Agency Premier, London Hometown Melbourne, Australia Best place to hang out/chill in London? Hampstead Heath!! Best thing about living in Europe? Well I’ve only lived in Europe
for about 4 months but as a base it’s amazing, you can be in Berlin, Amsterdam, Paris in 2 hours. Summer plans? My sister is passing through Europe so some travel with her, then home... yay! Are you going to any festivals? Was considering going to melt.. Currently obsessed with ...? Always and forever obsessed with Banana Bread
Abre Los Ojos Photography by Jorge Arberas at Ayala Studio Styling by Violeta Comella Grooming by David L贸pez using Bare Minerals Production by Elena Aguilar at Ayala Studio Model Pablo Otero at Sight Management
Wool Knitted Jumper by Sandro Leather flowers by ETXART&PANNO
Beige Trench Coat by Burberry Knitted Wool Cardingan by Dockers Dark Red Cotton Trousers by Vans Printed Shirt by Volcom Leather Flowers by ETXART&PANNO
99
Wool Knitted Jumper by Marciano by Guess Leather Flowers by ETXART&PANNO
Chequered Two-piece Suit by Antony Morato Crew neck Jumper & Denim Shirt by Fred Perry Laced Shoes with Contrast Soles by Clarks Leather Flowers by ETXART&PANNO
Wool brown Three-quarters Coat by Guess Oxford Shirt by Sandro Leather Flowers by ETXART&PANNO Wool Tie Stylist’s Own
Shirt by Reef Short Sleeved Sweater by G-star Leather Flowers by ETXART&PANNO Helmet stylist’s own
Coat with Wool Linen & Zipped Wool Jumper by Sandro Chequered Black & White Shirt by Vans Chequered Wool Trousers Antony Morato Leather flowers by ETXART&PANNO
this page Wool Knitted Jumper by Fred Perry Leather Flowers by ETXART&PANNO Hat stylist’s own opposite Three Quarter Wool Coat by Marciano by Guess Printed Shirt by Dockers Leather Flowers by ETXART&PANNO
107
Beige Trench Coat by Burberry
f-journals
V I S UA L + ST Y LE BLOG + AN N UAL SOFT BACK
w w w. f - j o u r n a l s . c o m