NORTH SHORE
WINTER 2012 /13
VOLCOM PIPE PRO_2013
JOHN JOHN CHAMPION HARD TO KILL P. 08
SURF CONTEST P. 22
SURFER CHECK IN P. 28
HOW to Photo & text: Francisco Robles
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SURFONN MAG | 3
08 Hard to Kill 12 Death Along The Shore 16 Ke Maka u 22 Volcom pipe pro 28 Surfer Check in 30 HOW TO... makPU U
CO
Photo: lemosimages.com
NTENT
Letter from the Publisher
Aloha and welcome
to our 2nd issue of the magazine. We are off and running into the New Year and excited about the forthcoming partnerships and sponsors. As we go forth into 2013 we welcome your feedback and articles or questions you may have about our publication. We are focused on the importance of keeping in touch with Hawaii and Surfing. This issue features an artistic article “KeMaka’u” by our contributing writer and editor Francisco Robles. I have myself submitted a short piece called “Hard To Kill” about training and the dangers of everyday life. In our next issue we will be featuring articles from the road. We hope you enjoy this publication and welcome your writing, film and or photo submissions to be published. Submit to submissions@hawaiiansurfmagazine.com.
Editor In Chief / Publisher Ignacio Cloud Breaker Fleishour The CW Chief Writer / Copy Editor Francisco Robles Photographers Bruno Lemos | 6
Graphic Designer Cristobal Alonso / 702lab.com Advertising Director / Sales Brian Kessler advertising@hawaiiansurfmagazine.com
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Hard to KILL
BECOME HARD
E
very year we make resolutions to lose weight, go on a diet or other honest attempts at making a go of making ourselves anew. This year instead of these goals we should make SMART Goals that are more aligned with what is achievable. Becoming a healthier you should be the ideal approach to achievement and self-satisfaction. Losing weight, gaining muscle getting faster; all of these things may be misleading and to be honest are just results of consistently reaching to just be healthier. I have carried a few extra pounds for quite some time but it has never limited me from achieving and being and doing exactly what I want. I am a bigger guy but I can rock climb, mountain bike, swim for miles and can surf for 8 hours at a time. I may not look like the embodiment of a fit or athletic guy but I get it done. When climbing in alpines at 14,000+ ft. I may not be the fastest guy but I am the guy that will carry you and your party out of trouble. I have done it on several occasions and had to carry two people out of the mountains on my back. I owe it all to a commitment and will to be consistent. Recently I had the scare of a lifetime and experienced the joys of a 3 wave hold down, then being dragged out to sea. I have to say that I have faced many dangerous things in my life and have never been as scared. I have survived at sea stranded on a boat without food and water, been chased by a bear in California, fell of a mountain while doing search and rescue in Colorado, had machine-gun fire whizz by in a shootout in Chiapas while escorting natives threatened by guerilla company men, and I have fought off armed robbers at the Mexican border and I bear the scars to prove it. None of these experiences came close to the fear I experienced while out in the water this winter season.
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I paddled out at Makaha and surfed a couple of nice 15 ft. (Hawaiian Measurement) waves before a big set came through and wiped me over the edge and was not in time to paddle over it or under it. I got held down and as I nearly gave up and decided to swallow water and pass out, I was spat up onto a bed of whitewater and foam. I then proceeded to throw up and panic as my muscles had spasms and the lactase buildup in my body began to work its magic. I started paddling for dear life but the ocean had other plans for me. As a former lifeguard and longtime surfer I proceeded to forget the number one rule of survival; “Don’t panic!� I guess when in the situation we sometimes forget the training if we are not consistent and use it all the time. This year was the first year that I did not put in the time and training for the winter season and it showed. I paddled with all my might and tried to reach for the shore with all I had in me but instead of traveling forward toward the beach I was being swept sideways towards town and out to sea. It was struggle that lasted 30 minutes, which tells you something about how hard I fought like a dummy instead of using all the knowledge and experience and going with the flow until I reached an area I could come
in more easily. I was finally grabbed by a tow team that was out there. They asked if I was ok and I swallowed my pride and admitted that indeed I was not ok and needed help. It was the first time I have ever asked for help. They allowed me on the sled and pulled me close to shore so I could get in. That was one of the toughest days of my life but it helped to put things in perspective. This experience prompted me to put some thought into this our second issue and into my training and putting my life back on track to a healthier more consistent me. Hopefully this experience and story will inspire others to reach for and be consistent with their health goals. Make Yourself Hard To Kill, (HTK) has become my new mantra. While others may be out there putting in all down on the line with all the new exercise and fitness trends like cross-fit, yoga, pilates, jujitsu and the endless ways of getting or staying in shape, you have to do and go for what works for you. Whether it is walking, surfing, jogging, eating one less bad meal a day or giving up that soda for some water, whatever it is, you have to be consistent. Find yourself someone to join or support you on this adventure. Even reading, studying and thinking about your health, diet and SURFONN MAG | 9
meditation help with your overall health and reaching your goals. Making Yourself Hard to kill whether it is by the elements, weather conditions, natural disasters, surf, mountains, human threats, heart conditions, or diseases; there are things in this world that are out to do us in, so the best we can do is prepare for them by consistently training to make us stronger against them. Everyday wake up and think to yourself of how you can give yourself this gift of a healthy long life. One thing to keep in mind as you choose your training regimen, exercise or health goals is that no matter what you do, nothing can replace the actual training and time spent in the water. I have traveled and surfed with world class athletes in climbing, ironman champs, triathletes, mountain bike title holders, and all agree that nothing compares to the rigors of surfing, paddling through waves, being held down and the amount of work to survive in surf. Be rigorous with yourself, and do what works for you and build upon your accomplishments every day. Start with meditation on your goals, eating less, while eating better, learning to breathe correctly, stretching, taking walks on a daily basis, even doing ten push-ups and sit-ups daily and building upon that every week. Do what works for you and do not rest on yesterday’s accomplishments but reach for tomorrows’ possibilities. EVERYDAY HTK!!!
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SURFONN MAG | 11
DEAD Along the SHore
text: Francisco Robles
Ripcurrents and hydrodynamics of the shoreline
Within the last several weeks two men drowned off of Kauai, a swimmer drowned off of Makaha beach after being caught in a rip current during high surf advisories, on one big wave day alone there were 15 rescues on the North Shore and two rescues and 41 assists along the Leeward coast of the island, according to the city’s Ocean Safety Division. Lifeguards also took 4,155 preventive actions on both shores to keep people out of the water. It is with these stats in mind we decided to talk about rips and safety along the shoreline.
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Rip Current Safety WHY RIP CURRENTS FORM As waves travel from deep to shallow water, they will break near the shoreline. When waves break strongly in some locations and weakly in others, this can cause circulation cells which are seen as rip currents: narrow, fast-moving belts of water traveling offshore.
Basic Rip Current Mechanics • Waves break on the sand bars before they break in the channel area. • Wave breaking causes an increase in water level over the bars relative to the channel level. • A pressure gradient is created due to the higher water level over the bars. • This pressure gradient drives a current alongshore (the feeder current). • The longshore currents converge and turn seaward, flowing through the low area or channel between the sand bars.
The United States Lifesaving Association (USLA) estimates that 80% of all ocean rescues are caused by rip currents. Statistic indicate the huge importance of recognizing what many people consider to be a “hidden danger.” Tourists and others unaccustomed to the ocean often have difficulty spotting these deadly killers; even lifeguards and ocean professionals cannot spot them when the wind is blowing onshore, this creates confusing sea conditions. Waves break in a water depth that is 1.3 times their height. Rips flow through underwater channels or breaks in the inner bar, waves do not break as readily in these locations. The force of the rip current itself tends to diminish the power of the incoming waves, lowering the surf. Unsuspecting bathers and swimmers can be attracted to rips because of the calmness of the water relative to the high surf elsewhere. It is important for people to learn how to spot rips because it is a matter of life and death; even expert swimmers can be nearly helpless in these powerful currents. Rips are sometimes referred to as “drowning machines” because of their almost mechanical ability to tire swimmers, causing fatigue
and death. The first thing to do upon arriving at a beach is to scan the surf from the highest point possible. Consult with lifeguards on surf conditions and especially regarding the presence and location of any rip currents. Rips do not always appear in the same spot every time, but can change position. More than one rip may be present at a beach on the same day. Look for a seaward flow of debris or entrained sediment. In rip currents these materials generally move at right angles to the shoreline. Where the rip crosses the surf zone, the line of breakers may be interrupted or transformed into small, choppy waves. The water contained in the rip often looks murky or foamy. Rip currents moving through relatively calm, regular surf of big Pacific swells, such as along the Northern Hawaiian coast, are not always easily detected. These deadly currents are much harder to spot when the sea is rough and conditions are windy. Rip currents have three components; a feeder, a neck and a head. The classic diagram of rip currents is like a mushroom; oftentimes this mushroom shape is not present or apparent to beachgoers from the vantage point of the water’s edge.
What to do if you find yourself in a rip current The best thing to do is learn to spot rip currents and avoid find yourself in a rip current, remember the following. It could save your life! • Don't fight the current - Conserve energy, keep calm, float, breathe, don’t panic, and wave for help • Swim out of the current, then to shore - Swim out of the current in a direction following the shoreline. When out of the current, swim at an angle--away from the current--towards shore. • If you can't escape, float or tread water - You can easily float in the current, there is no undertow. • If you need help, call or wave for assistance - If there is large surf or shoreline hazards, wave your hands for help and wait for assistance.
The feeder current is the main source of water for the rip. Water that has been pushed and piled up on the beach is often moved along the shore for a short distance by the feeder currents to the underwater channel or trough. Once the water reaches the channel or encounters an obstacle to its along-theshore movement, it will turn seaward as a rip current. There may be one or two feeder currents, depending upon the wave approach and prevailing longshore current. The neck section is where the concentrated flow of water moves from the beach through the surf zone. Current speeds are quite fast, often reaching 2-3 feet per second and measured to be as high as 6 feet per second along some Australian high-surf beaches. The neck | 14
of the rip can vary in width from a few yards to tens of yards. The majority of both rescues and drowning occur when people are being pulled offshore in the rip neck. The rip head, which sometimes has the classic mushroom shape, develops where the current has moved beyond the surf zone. Here the rip loses its power as the water disperses broadly (see red arrow in figure). There is no longer a current, and anyone being pulled to this offshore area can then just swim back to shore, avoiding the narrow rip neck. Another way to escape from a rip is to swim perpendicular to the pull of the current (parallel to the beach). Most people caught in rips tend to panic. Survival instinct tells us to swim back
toward the safety of the beach, which is the wrong thing to do. Even professional and experienced swimmers that attempt to swim against strong rips will fatigue and eventually drown.
SIGNS – LOOK FOR SIGNS OF RIPS BEFORE APPROACHING THE OCEAN: Change in water color from the surrounding water (either murkier from sediments, seaweed, and flotsam or darker because of the depth of the underwater channel where the rip flows). Gap in the breaking waves, where the rip is forcing its way seaward through the surf zone. Agitated (choppy) surface that extends beyond the breaker zone. Floating objects moving steadily sea-
ward. Water in the rip may be colder than the surrounding water.
ACTION TO TAKE – (DON’T PANIC) if caught in a rip current: Don’t panic, which wastes your energy and keeps you from thinking clearly. Don’t attempt to swim against the current directly back to shore. Swim parallel to shore until you are out of the current as the offshore flow is restricted to the narrow rip neck. Float calmly out with the rip if you cannot break out by swimming perpendicular to the current. When it subsides, just beyond the surf zone, swim diagonally back to shore.
Rip currents have been measured to have speeds as high as 5 feet per second at big surf beaches. Rips often occur at groins, jetties, reef channels and piers; stay away from these structures in the water to avoid these deadly currents and other hazards. About 100 people drown annually in rip currents in the United States. Breaking waves that approach 5 feet can generate powerful rip currents. The energy of a wave is proportional to its height so that a 3-foot wave is 9 times more powerful than a 1-footer.
STATISTICS OF RIP CURRENTS Eighty percent of ocean rescues (over 70,000 per year) involve saving someone caught in a rip current. A strong rip current moves at 3 feet per second, which is as fast as an Olympic swimmer in a 50-meter sprint.
TO AVOID BECOMING ONE OF THESE STATISTICS, AND AS A RESPONSIBLE COMMUNITY BASED MAGAZINE WE HIGHLY RECOMMEND TAKING A SURF LESSON FROM PROFESSIONALS AT THE NANCY EMERSON SURF SCHOOL, VISIT THEM AT SURFCLINICS.COM
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Bookings essential call (808) 294-5544 or visit our website at www.surfclinics.com
Image courtesy David Pu’u.
SURFONN MAG | 15
Stories from the REEf
text: Francisco Robles
Ke Maka'u A Story of Humility Underneath a churning mountain of whitewater, he realized the intensity of the situation. Hot pains flashed through his chest a desperate need to breathe. The benign tropical water went black, leaving him blind to the razor sharp coral rushing up to meet him. Pinned violently to the bottom, he felt the warm rush of blood to his back. He pushed against the reef and stroked for the surface. In the distance, he heard the rumblings of the next set wave, then he lost consciousness…
It started
out just like any other glorious day in Hawaii. The sun crept lazily over Koko Head crater, shedding a neon fire orange luster over Moanalua Bay. The warm trade winds lulled mighty palm trees, stirring deep green waves through the lush vegetation that climbed Hawaii Kai’s bordering cliffs. A strong breeze wandered in from offshore, collecting quietly in the confines of Hanauma Bay, resting there, then crept up a small neighboring hill and descended upon the homes that lined the base of Oahu’s southernmost crater. He was asleep when the breeze finally found its way through the open windows located at the back of the house. The breeze circulated around the room, teasing gently at the lampshade in the corner, ruffling the shirts that lined the inside of the closet, content to focus its final breath on the sheets that spilled over and off of the bed. Awakened by the visitor, he sat up in bed, rubbing lazily at his eyes. The air seemed alive with a humid floral and salt aurora. He took it all in deeply through his nose and exhaled mightily. He couldn’t help but fall victim to the notion that today was going to be a day of significance. The morning
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did seem to have a certain electricity to it. He swung his legs off of the bed and the cool wooden floor rushed up to meet his feet. Moving gingerly around the dirty clothes scattered about his room he made his way out into the hall. The floor, in desperate need of re-finishing, creaked underfoot as he walked past a collection of pictures hanging on the wall. Countless faces and scenes that seemed distant to him, loved ones and places that seemed trivial for this morning of great destiny. He dismissed the notion and moved out into the living room. The house was simplistic in layout. Two bedrooms sat in the rear, a long hallway with two additional rooms branching off to the left and right spilled out into an oversized living room. A countertop constructed of the finest woods and bordered by deep blue tile separated the kitchen from the living room. Light crept in from a skylight overhead and shone a metallic brilliance, bouncing off of hanging pots and utensils. A dinner table sat in the lanai (an addition made to the house some years ago when it was decided the house just wasn’t big enough with three teenage boys running rampant) along with the lady of the house’s school provisions. He pulled a bowl from the shelf and fixed himself cereal. The first one up meant assuming the duty of retrieving the newspaper, so he walked to the screen door, unlatched it, and sped down the set of stairs at the entrance to the house. The sun, more a golden tan now than neon orange, squinted his eyes as he collected the paper and hurried back into the house. Once settled, and thankful that his breakfast hadn’t turned to mush like most cereals left unattended, he opened up the paper to the sports section. He scanned through articles of major league steroid abuse and a piece on the start of the new season for the UH rainbows till he stopped on a small cluster of numbers on the bottom right of the paper. It read: Surf Report North Shore: 2-3ft West Shore: 2-3ft South Shore: 10-12ft East Shore: 1-2ft
He dropped his spoon on the floor. He rubbed his eyes and refocused on the page, making sure his vision hadn’t fooled him. South Shore: 10-12ft Though the morning was cool, sweat gathered at the base of his forehead and he reached up to brush the droplets aside with the side of his hand. His heart rate quickened and he suddenly felt awash with dizziness. He steadied himself against the counter. He was nauseas with anticipation. Had the predicted swell actually arrived? There was only one way to find out. He moved quickly down the hall, his board shorts swishing a nylon ballet as he walked. He threw a shirt on and grabbed for his slippers. Out the front door and up the street, past houses that looked dissimilar to his own, around the corner, past the park that served as a community gathering place, and up the hillside that was, essentially, the base of the crater, he climbed. At the summit, his eyes wandered across the tremendous sky-blue bay, to Diamond Head, then stopped at Honolulu, a mere fifteen minutes away. Massive lines of swell ran miles out to sea. Like gigantic nautical warriors attempting to take over the island, they marched in sets of twenty to twenty-five waves per platoon. They heaved mightily upon the reefs that lined the coast, exploding thirty feet into the air, snarling beasts of punishment. His knees almost gave. He steadied himself and gazed once more to the ocean. Every point and reef from the marina to the city lit up with swell. Miles away at Diamond Head, where the brunt of the swell focused, he could make out individual waves. Held up until the last moment by the strong trades, these waves threw outward into perfectly cylindrical barrels, massive crystal green cathedrals that peeled hundreds of yards into the distance. The wind carried the scent of salt like some battlefield that reeked of death. The air that always seemed so comforting to him now turned, twisted, and writhed inside his stomach. Despite this new stench, he stood transfixed for what seemed like hours, unable to peel his gaze from these giant beasts in the distance. Numerous times, he had to remind himself to
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breathe. Turning back down the path, his pace quickened to a mad sprint, there was work to be done. Naturally, he turned down the offer to accompany his housemate to the university. He was sure she could use his help in all of the various odd jobs that needed attention in the last few days before the fall semester began, but today destiny was beckoning, and you just don’t go to school when destiny beckons. “But I could really use your muscles today,” she whined. Feeling ashamed, he grabbed for the paper and pointed to the surf report, as if it was the sole reason why he couldn’t help her today. Dismissing the paper, “So you’d rather surf than help me today, huh?” Though her voice was rife with sarcasm, she was aware of the swell. She had noticed him shifting uneasily in his chair the night before as the local weatherman announced the chance of swell the following day. Unaccustomed to the reaction of the announcement, she had stared intently at him. Her children, raised in the islands, never responded in such a manner. But their understanding and passion for the ocean never ran as deep as the young man fidgeting in his chair a few feet from her. She was beautiful and wise, a product of raising three promising children into the world. As she stood there, looking up at him in the kitchen, he could only shrug his shoulders to her question. “Yea, I guess so.” The drive from his house to Secrets took five minutes. He marveled at the lack of activity in the shopping centers | 18
and businesses as he drove by. School started in just three days, surely there was a certain amount of last minute shopping to be attended to. But the community seemed devoid of life. Focusing on the road again, he thought when the surf’s up, everyone calls in sick. Every so often, when there was a break in the houses to his left, he could see the ocean. Brief glimpses of waves falling over two stories made him eccentric. He had never really been out in heavy surf like this before. Apprehension made way for anticipation as he pulled into the parking lot at Secrets. He opened the car door and rolled out in one graceful motion, careful not to allow himself a view of the water. He hadn’t come this far to chicken out. Making his way to the rear of the car, he popped the hatchback. He removed his slippers and flung them into the car, feeling for the first time the warmth of the asphalt against the bottoms of his feet. He pulled out his black rash guard, a protective lycra shirt designed to reduce both sun and wind exposure and, with a bit of luck, to protect your skin if you have a run-in with the bottom. Tugging it over his head, the shirt slid on quickly. He pulled his surfboard out gingerly, careful not to inflict any wounds to its delicate fiberglass skin. The beautiful 6’8” shone in the midday sun, a mighty gossamer wand impervious to imperfection. He held doubts about the board’s length in larger surf, but they soon erased as he closed and locked the door and turned slowly to the ocean. Eyes down, he walked past a gathering of locals in the far
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HOW to Photo & text: Francisco Robles corner of the parking lot, each too busy to pay notice as he passed by them, each caught up in their own ways of preparation. He crossed the line where black and green blurred and walked over the crab grass, pass the public showers, and stopped short of the water, resting next to a mighty palm. The wind ruffled his hair as he bent over to attach his leash to his ankle. He glanced at his watch. 12:24 PM. The swell was predicted to peak at one. He entered the water just as the larger sets began to throw on the outer reef. Secrets, a reef located halfway between Hawaii Kai and Diamond Head, was set up like any other South Pacific reef pass. Between the shore and the reef, a large lagoon collected. Only a couple of feet deep, sea life was abundant here. The calm waters and gentle tide played an ideal life support system for the lagoon’s inhabitants. Contrasting the serenity was the world outside the lagoon and on the reef. There, the ocean focused all of her mad fury and hate into massive hydro bombs that exploded in water only a few feet deep. The soft sand gave way to living rock, with its jagged teeth and fang-like arms ripping up from the ground. He paddled over the lagoon like he had done countless times before, timed the sets, and sat out a hundred yards from the main bowl. The waves broke like gaping cylinders, swallowing lighthouses whole. He was content to sit on the inside where the waves were smaller and take off on shoulders. A set stacked up and he paddled into position. Turning his back to the wave, he paddled hard, each stroke deep and true. He felt the rush of acceleration and sprung to his feet as weightlessness overwhelmed him. Flying in a sky blue chamber as a million gallons of water poured overhead, he almost fell off in shock. He felt the sting of spray against his neck and reassured his grip on the board as he skirted the aqua glass that spread out before him. Moving faster, he buried the inside rail of his board into the face of the wave, sharply changing direction he sent spray high into the air. Satisfied the wave had been surfed to its potential, he kicked out yelling and hooting like a madman. Another set and the process repeated itself. Barrel, Carve, Barrel, Cutback. Wave after wave he gained confidence. His feet were sure and strong. He stalled on sections where others would run, carving gaping trenches in the bellies of these great beasts. He couldn’t fall. With his newfound confidence, he sat closer to the main bowl. Within a small group of other surfers, he eagerly waited for the next set to arrive. He turned toward the shore and watched the palms sway, bowing out to the ocean, bowing to him. He was the warrior who tamed the beast. He was the soldier that defeated the army. The wind blew harder and he realized the pack had begun to | 20
paddle outside. He swung around just as the horizon went black. The others paddled furiously, kicking and screaming, trying desperately to outrace impending doom. He paddled long, deep strokes, breathing in all of the fear and intensity, consumed by the moment. As the others cleared the crest of the first massive fifteen-footer he spun mid-face and sprung to his feet. The wind howled uncontrollably and the spray in his face blinded him. He felt the bottom of the wave fall out from beneath him as he leapt from his board. Flailing into the abyss, he fell. He regained consciousness a few feet beneath the surface. Surrounded by the crystal clean water of the lagoon, his eyes opened to a ballet of light that broke the surface of the water. Ripping upward, he gagged and gasped for air, throwing up water from his lungs. The sweet air burned against the inside of his chest, he coughed madly. His rash guard had been ripped from his skin. A red haze engulfed him and he felt pain for the first time. He ran his hand down his back to examine his wound, feeling the broken flesh and warm blood. He gathered his surfboard. Thank god for leashes, he thought, and began the painful paddle back to shore. He collected the strength to stand and moved from the water back onto land. He turned and watched the sea, her great warriors of battle still crashing against rock. With a new sense of respect, he turned away from her and started toward the car.
THE MOVED PROJECT
THE MOVED PROJECT
THE MOVED PROJECT
BE THE CHANGE, BE MOVED ALISHA GONSALVES, BRAND AMBASSADOR
themovedproject.com SURFONN MAG | 21
Surf Contest
text: Francisco Robles Photos: Cristobal Alonso
VOLCOM Pipe Pro_2013
Voices of the Ancients from the Depths
AMIDST THE HOWLING OF THE WIND, HEAR THE VOICES CALLING REMINDING ALL WITH ROARING AND RUMBLING FORCE ACROSS THE SHORE. I AM HERE, I AM HAWAII, I AM LIFE, I AM THE PAINTER, THE CREATOR AND THE DESTROYER FOR THOUSANDS OF YEARS I HAVE BRUSHED THE SHORELINE WITH THE STROKES OF LIFE AND BLESSEDLY FORMED AND REFORMED THE REEF AND THE LAND THAT PROVIDES LIFE, REMEMBER MY ECHOES IN YOUR DREAMS, FOR THE WAR DRUMS BEAT.
Once again,
Pipeline delivered for the first contest of the new year. Huge waves and huge crowds rocked the beach making for one of the most exciting Volcom Pipe Pros in recent memory. Hawaii’s John John Florence claimed his third consecutive victory followed by USA’s Chris Ward in second, Australia’s Josh Kerr in third, and Maui’s Olomana Eleogram in fourth. But as the spectacle of Oahu’s North Shore unfurled amid gentle trades and glorious skies, questions of identity, ethnicity, nationality pervaded. What did it mean to be a “Hawaiian” surfer? How did we happen to throw that designation around so haphazardly? With the corporate contest machine speeding along and the surf brand carnival performing for the throngs of attendees, water patrol and beach security kept the peace and ensured safety, proving yet again that while many lay claim to perpetuating aloha, so very few actually do. Stay tuned for an in depth article on what it means to be a “Hawaiian” or a local surfer in our next issue. | 22
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Jamie O’Brien | 24
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Born of chaos, cold meeting warm, fronts colliding on far northern seas Driving south to explode on our reef, they march forth in liquid lines to war on our shores. From the porch, feasting on the whole wide world on a dish, sipping on plantation iced tea. These are the blessings of the North Shore, for tomorrow on other shores we will be, but nothing will compare to this; our sacred piece of heaven in the middle of the vast pacific sea.
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Tradition, Fun, Excellence and Achievement are the pillars of our Academy.
Not only will you learn to surf, but you will get the opportunity to learn lore, history, culture, safety and have fun while doing it.
www.hawaiiansurfacademy.com Our professionally trained staff are some of the best in the world and include competitive surfers who are dedicated to enhancing and sharing the sport for all to enjoy safely and with Aloha. Photo: Surf Instructor and Coach, Davey Boy Gonsalves. Charging Backdoor Pipeline SURFONN MAG | 27
Surfer Check-in
Alisha Gonsalves HIGHLIGHTS OF LAST YEAR: One of the main highlights of 2012 for me was winning the Women’s Sea Hawaii Pipeline pro Juniors. A few of my other highlights included traveling to Europe by myself and just having some really great times with my friends and family this past year GOALS FOR THIS YEAR: A few of my goals for this year include doing a few of the WQS events around the world and doing well in enough of them to qualify for the 2014 Women’s WCT. Some other goals include taking a few college courses in California during the times that I am not traveling and learning how to speak Chinese. HOW AND WHAT ARE YOU DOING TO ACHIEVE THOSE: The things that I am doing to achieve my goal of doing well in the WQS events are surfing a bunch, doing yoga, a lot of cardiovascular activity, and maintaining a healthy diet. The things that I am doing to achieve my other goals are signing up for classes and listening to a few CD’s that are teaching me to speak the Chinese language. | 28
BOARD YOU ARE RIDING: Al Merrick Surfboards. My favorite Al Merrick surfboard at the moment is my 5”4 flyer model. TRAINING TIPS: While I’m training I am always pushing my personal limits and the thought process behind my training is “no pain no gain” but yet I listen to my body well and I know when I’m doing too much. So a couple tips I would give about training are not to give up when it gets challenging and be sure to listen to the signs that your body gives you when you’ve gone far enough otherwise you can really injure yourself. Also, be sure to maintain a healthy diet because your body will need the nutrients from the food your eating when working hard, QUOTE /INSPIRATION FOR THIS YEAR. “The only limits in your life are those that you set yourself.” - Aristotle
SOUNDTRACK FOR LAST YEAR: My choice in music depends on my situation and whatever mood I’m in at the moment. For example when I’m getting ready to paddle out for a heat I’ll listen to some pump-you-up songs such as DMX or house music, and I’ll listen to a lot of those same songs from year to year because they’re my classics. HOWEVER, A FEW SPECIFIC SOUNDTRACKS FOR 2012 INCLUDE : Silhouettes- Avicii Beauty and a beat- Justin Bieber Reaching Out- Nero Diamonds- Rihanna Can’t Stop Me- Afrojack & Shermanology Don’t You Worry Child- Swedish House Mafia ft. John Martin Crew Love- Drake ft. the Weekend Pyramids- Frank Ocean Is This Love- Bob Marley Ridin’- A$AP Rocky Ft. Lana Del Rey The Night Out- Martin Solveig
SOUNDTRACK FOR THIS YEAR: Peso- A$AP Rocky Play Hard- Neyo ft. David Guetta Pour It Up- Rihanna Lullabies (Jim-E Stack Remix)- Yuna Red- Taylor Swift How Do You Want It- Tupac
3045 MONSARRAT AVE. DIAMOND HEAD
lemosimages.com SURFONN MAG | 29
HOW to text: Cisco Robles Photos: David Gonsalves
MAKAPU’U How to surf:
Located on Oahu’s
southeastern most shore, Makapu’u, while predominately a body boarding and body surfing spot, offers up some excellent stand up surfing possibilities when the conditions permit. Set against the glorious Ko’olau mountain range, Makapu’u is the centerpiece of a cathedral-like amphitheater, with sheer cliffs enveloping azure skies and crystalline water breaking upon golden sand. Located across the street from Sea Life Park, Makapu’u parking is available in the lot just to the north of the beach or alongside Kalanianaole Hwy. Wherever you decide to park your ride, make sure to bring your valuables with you (or, better yet, leave them home) and lock your car, as break-ins are commonplace. Depending on tide, bottom conditions, and swell direction, Makapu’u has several “breaks” across the expanse of the bay. Larger swells tend to break to the “left” or middle of the bay, while shore break waves command the “right” side of the bay starting from the lifeguard tower on. There are multiple places to paddle out, from the outcropping of rocks directly in front of the parking lot (a favorite amongst locals) to just in front of the lifeguard tower; Makapu’u is accessible from just about every point along the break.
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However, where you paddle out here is not nearly as important as when you paddle out. Hawaii state law prohibits regular “surfing,” i.e. hard board surfboards, for the majority of the day, so the only time to take advantage of the surf at Makapu’u is either before or after the lifeguards are on duty. Roughly, this translates to sunup to 9am dawn patrols or after 5pm afternoon sessions. Whichever timeslot fits your fancy, remember to time your paddle out during a lull in the sets as “getting caught inside” at Makapu’u will undoubtedly impart a new understanding of the popular phrase should you find yourself in an unviable position. Make no mistake… she will give you a beating.
While the islands’ predominate northeast trades provide surf year-round at Makapu’u, the spot really shines on a straight east or north swell with slack winds. Don’t let the idyllic scenery and deep water fool you however, when Makapu’u turns on the currents, wind, and waves can turn the serene bay into a cauldron of whitewater, threatening to hold you under, pull you out to sea, or plunge you into rocks along the coastline. You’d do well to listen to the little voice in your head here, if in doubt… don’t go out. If you do happen to find yourself in a jam, catch the whitewater through the shore break and call it a day.
If you negotiated both law and shore break, position yourself in between the lifeguard tower and the parking lot for the best takeoff spot. There you’ll be able to choose between a speedy and hollow right that peels off towards the rocks or a deep water left that reforms in the shore break. The larger the swell, the further out you’ll want to sit. The bay channels deep water swells, focusing them onto shallow sandbars and reef formations, and this necessitates commitment paddling into waves. Too little, and they’ll pass right underneath you. Put your head down and go and you just may catch the wave of your life.
Like most fickle spots, Makapu’u is home to some of the most protective locals on Oahu. When she’s on, make sure to give them a wide berth. They’ve undoubtedly surfed here onshore day after onshore day, and when the elements come together; they deserve the spoils of their dedication. When you factor in the varied kinds of surf craft you’ll find here, Makapu’u can seem an extraordinarily political surf spot. Like most any other break, show respect and it will be shown to you. Majestic cliffs, golden sands, and powerful surf, Makapu’u is emblematic of the Hawaiian surfing experience. Serene and peaceful one moment, terrifying the next. Paddle into a deep water peak, negotiate the forceful winds and crushing shore break, walk up the sand and breath in the air, and experience one of the islands’ greatest surfing treasures.
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THANKS TO ALL OUR FANS FOR THE SUPPORT on the Hawaiian Surf Magazine. We have received very positive feedback and the response is deeply appreciated. See some of our reader’s photos above and letters below. We would also like to announce our support of : Surfboardsmarket.com it is a great resource for your boards and surf gear. The website is becoming hugely popular.
THE LAST ISSUE was awesome, I hope the mag keeps putting up safety information and the useful kind of articles to keep donkeys from drowning. I have read other surf mags and none compare to the quality of writing. I know one of your editors, it is obvious he is doing his PHD in English at UH, not many can claim that on their staff. Keep up the good work. MAHALOS! Keoni K, Sunset Beach, HI
THE NEW MAGAZINE I appreciate the quality of this publication. I especially think that the safety concerns and addressing local issues is of great importance. Your article on the homeless issue in Hawaii was quite insightful and eye opening. Congrats. Joseph H, Manoa, HI
PUT MY PICTURE IN PLEASE. What you guys sponsa anyone? I like get sponsored, I been surfing since I was 5 and I THINK THE SURF MAG is nice, pretty difstay expensive for Hawaiians to pay for ferent and mean da pictures too. If you guys contest fees and buy boards. Hook me looking for more photographers, I like work up bullies. Shoots, K Den. I look forward for you. I get camera and sick pics, can do to the next issue, keep up da good work. for cheap and for trade too if you like. William H, Makaha, HI Mahalo, William, yes we do sponsor some riders, Pono, from Waimanalo, HI submit your photos, videos, or articles to us at: submissions@hawaiiansurfmagazine.com
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