NORTH SHORE
THE NORTH SHORE ISSUE # 124
The power and the glory. Waimea Bay, 01/01/2020, 0837am. Photography by Liquid Barrel
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t never stops. It never changes. It barely even evolves. The North Shore would be an interesting study for any professor of sociological transformation. Since 1938 the crucible of tough love for the surfing universe. A place that still smelts raw talent, alloys it and pours into the form of memorable surfing reputations. Bomb into Teahupoo all you want, but until you become a player on the North Shore, you may be remembered as a good surfer, but never a great one. And so in this, our 124th issue we are celebrating the new decade with a sumptuous feast of North Shore energy. Thanks to our team of photographers that were beachside and in the water, we open this issue with a 12 page spread of the finest North Shore photography you will see this year. Or for any year for that matter. Because we believe this is the among the best photography to come out of the North Shore season in our sport’s history. Thanks to Pete Frieden, Liquid Barrel and Damea Dorsey, who toiled away on the blazing beaches and then swam out into harms way, these images will get you on the beach and duckdiving under the best surfers in the world. Of course center stage is Pipeline. Like we said, nothing changes much on the North Shore. Though sister Sunset and brother Haleiwa and big daddy Waimea are just as prestigious, most the lenses, as they have been since the 1950’s, are trained on the Banzai Pipeline. With barrels rarely lasting more than a five seconds, Pipeline may not be the stuff of GoPro surrealism, but the power and the speed
and the majesty and the danger and most of all the reputation of the place carries a staus as heavy at its pitching lips. Of course Pipe doesn’t host the only winter games in the world. So we also bring you a naked jungle. Pepe Romo’s visual paean to Desert point. Despite the Go Pro revolution, still a site in the top three for the longest barrels on earth. And speaking of tough love we also offer Surftime’s teenage guide to being a pro surfer. Follow these steps and you’ll make it. We then travel to Africa with Michael February and learn what it is like to surf alone with the ghosts of slaves. We have a stunning Liquid Barrel portfolio that tells the extraordinary story of Indonesian surfing in three back to back images of secret spots. Trevor Murphy is back with his kaleidoscope dreams and we are giving away a custom LOST surfboard to the lucky and very talented winner of our photo contest. And we wrap the issue up with a look back at Hawaiian surfing in 1926. And so it goes that with every issue of Surftime we proudly bring you an indelible experience from around world. And in a day and age where surfers are talking to astronauts, we remain a voice too. Because within the images of this magazine is a voice without words. And it’s your voice. All you have to do is listen. - Editor -
ITALO FERREIRA
A premium design collaboration with Billabong and Metallica, inspired by the most electrifying album in the iconic band’s high-voltage catalogue. Brought to you by Billabong LAB. ŠMetallica 2019
COVER: Our new world champion, Italo Ferriera, cementing his place in history at big Pipe. Because you either do it here or not at all. Welcome to the world of Brazilian dominance. Photography by Liquid Barrel
Photography by Budianto Chandra
UNDER
PRESSURE: PIPE KILLS
Photography by Liquid Barrel
Benji Brand. First wave of his season. Part one. 1 4 SURFTIME
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f you are unprepared, it’s not pressure you feel, it’s fear. Experience can help too, but there is only one way to get that in Hawaii. Put yourself in harms way. And there is no better place to do that than the Banzai Pipeline. The crucible of the surfing world, where top flight pro careers are lost and found, this reef holds more weight on its square shoulders than Teahupoo. There is a reason for this. Pipeline is a natural coliseum. Seen and felt from shore. Teahupoo is seen from boats full of beer drinking photographers and the ballyhoo of Brazilian bikini girlfriends. Yes, Teahupoo might be more pneumatic, even heavier, but it is not as tall an order. For one thing, you either paddle
in at Pipe or not all. At Teahupoo the decision is made for you. Grab your balls and go. At Pipeline the decisions are not made for you. Which means there is a hell of alot more room for human error. Your error. And it starts with paddling out from shore through a hammering maelstrom. Something you never need to do at Teahupoo. In Tahiti you just hop off a railing and glide into the line-up. Teahupoo may roar at you, but Pipeline hunts you down. And it takes more animal instinct to stand out because of it. The pressure at Teahupoo is a dare. The pressure at Pipe is a personal defining moment. Of course no pressure means no diamonds. And it is this sort of career gemology that you
need to find at Pipeline if you are planning for any kind of lasting fame. There exists an actual elegance within the bullfight itself at Pipe. Rather than the running of the bulls at Teahupoo. Earnest Hemingway said it best, courage is grace under pressure. And you can live with this and be remembered for it at Pipe. At Teahupoo, the best you can hope for is to be successfully shot out of a cannon into the Go Pro’s in the channel. Not that Teahupoo is slack. Far from it. It’s literally murderous. But it just isn’t the bullring that makes legends. Teahupoo is the boxing ring that supports them. And of course Pipeline’s reputation as its rightful place to decide a world champion is undisputed. But in many
Benji Brand. First wave of his season. Part two.
ways the primary reason the Pipe is King is because of the way we see it. Literally. The way it has been so honestly photographed and filmed since the 50’s. Tattooed onto the right bicep of our sport’s consciousness. A tattoo, that deep down, we all want to have. “First it intimidates you,” says Kelly Slater “Then you find the balls to give it a try. Then you figure it out. Then you grow from the pride that comes with that. Then, and only then, do you get hungry for it.” And so the Banzai Pipeline pressure remains. Waiting for anyone who cares to make it a reality. And the rest of us, knowing damn well, that the only way to handle that pressure is to apply it.
Koa Smith. The helmet option is a signal of commitment.
Brett Barley. What you fear will find you.
Miguel Tuleda. The power is not on a human scale.
Miguel Tuleda. Look Back and your dead.
Koa Rothman. Living the point of it all.
Makuakai Rothman. A heavy call. But all his.
Koa Rothman, The power is not on a human scale.
Michael Rodriques. Easiest place in the world to have your bell rung.
Noah Beschen. That’s the thing about Pipe. The abyss moves with you.
Pipeline. With the sunset comes a reasonable hue. Except for the crowds.
Varun Tandjung, Bronson Meydi. Considering the consequences.
Jay Davies. There is only one gear at Pipeline. Overdrive.
Connor Coffin. Styling with survival in mind.
Griffin Colapinto. Power meeting power. The only way make it here.
Griffin Colapinto. The only place in the world where airs don’t matter.
Mason Ho. At play in his own backyard. Photography by Pete Frieden
Mason. Not forgetting the basics. Photography by PeteFrieden
Mason. Putting the free into the meaning of freesurfer. Photography by Pete Frieden
Mason. Owning it all. Photography by Pete Frieden
Photography by Pepe Romo
Nathan Fletcher taking advantage of a rare opportunity to slam on the brakes. With a wave that offers the second longest left barrels in the world, it is a welcome sensation to dig in with your right rail. 26
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The overwhelming presence of brutal Brazilian MMA surfers here, as hard charging as it is, does occasionally offer it’s gentler side. But tread lightly, even their women can choke you out.
Above: Once you get too greedy and ride too long and find yourself soaring onto the spiked grates of the Grower section, you must fight the instinct of straightening out or risk a 24 hour, sweaty ride to the medieval clinics of Bali. Left: On absolutely every swell, absolutely every breaking moment of Desert Point is documented by a veritable garden of camera equipment on shore. And out in the line-up, every individual wave is captured by every individual surfer with Go Pro’s clenched in their jaws. The mind reels at the thought of how many hours of footage actually exists. How this place still maintains it’s mystique as a semi-secret spot is anybody’s guess.
If it was never captured, it must have never existed. The multi-national camera crew can be found shoulder to shoulder in any spot of rare natural shade here. That’s why so many identical images of the wave abound. But with a chance of capturing tube maestro’s like Bruno Santos on afterburner, the opportunity is irresistible.
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ete Matthews stood on the edge of eternity in the early dawn. The sky above pink rimmed to the east and still an ominous black dome to the west. The sun had yet to hit the surf, making the big unruly swell slate gray and malicious. With a low tide just turned, the bigger waves were sweeping whitewater past his knees with a power that made him spread his legs a bit more and find better purchase with his bare feet on the reef. He held his board horizontally, nose first, in both hands on his right hip. He found himself shivering. The big swell had brought up the deep water. He was too committed now to back down. A tireless Chris Ward had shaken Pete awake 15 minutes before. With nothing in his stomach but anxiety, Pete scraped wax and leashed up and made his way down to the jump off. Pete had tried to get Chris to at least wait until the sun was up, but Chris, venting the fumes of last night’s mushrooms and beer, wanted his favorite line-up to himself. “But like this?”, Pete thought. Pete Matthews had a way of finding himself in these kind of situations. Once at Sunset Beach on the North Shore, Pete had made the mistake of checking 20 foot January storm surf at dawn. He had no thoughts of going out, but he was also not looking forward to a long day of glassing overdue pro boards back at the shop. Just as he had turned the key and was headed for coffee, an amped up Johnny Boy Gomes skidded into the parking lot, noticed Pete’s board on the roof and forced Pete to paddle out with him into the pandemonium. Just turned 22, Pete came in two hours later looking 60 years old. Now it was Desert point so many years later. Chris Ward had just made it through a set. He had looked like an insect crawling up a wall on the last one. The boils on the faces of the waves were the size of swimming pools. A man could drown in one of those, Pete thought. That’s right when the sun hit the waves. Making the reality of the situation indisputable. But Pete had to do it. Had to. No choice. So goes the code. So Pete looked back at the safety of land and the huts stocked with their dozing charges who were blissfully unaware of the drama unfolding. And an envy fell over Pete. Almost a cowardice. But he shook it off. And he realized he was overthinking things. So without even timing it, he jumped off and paddled like hell before he didn’t. Paddling up the face of the first giant, he heard the hoots from Chris on the outside and knew he was in for it. Looking down the line of another 12 foot monster Pete was blinded by the sun’s reflection, so he closed his eyes and paddled on instinct. Airborne, he smacked down on his board and, nose to the stringer, gave it all he had. Later. Outside. With a sun that would still blind any take-off, his mind was on survival of the fittest. A set approached. He swallowed once and slid onto his stomach. After all, he thought, what is a desert other than a naked jungle.
Desert Point is never all fun and games. Aptly named, even the sunburn can kill you here. And when it’s big, really big, it would test the mettle of Hercules. At this size, it is a wave that is not so much about survival as it is about being willing to die.
Above:w Right: In the end, Desert Point is all about a family of aficionado’s. Pablo and Bruno, comparing adrenaline in the sunsets dying light. And so begins a long night of warm beers and tall tales before the bell rings for another round of thrills at dawn’s early light.
ACE IN THE HOLE: The Path To Greatness Is Easy‌
As Long As You Know How Hard It Is. Photography by Pete Frieden
By joining the Tandjung camp, Bronson Meydi has been handed the opportunity of a lifetime. With more age and more power he may just make the tour. But the common denominator for all our World Champions is that they surfed like their life depended on it. Just watch Mick Fanning for 10 seconds and you’ll see what we mean. Do Indonesians have this desperate DNA? Time will tell. 3 6 SURFTIME
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his is a Surftime message to all the young Indonesian surfers out there who want to be on the World Surf League tour by 2025. Follow these steps: 1. Decide whether you want to be a great or just be in the game. No shame in just being in the game, look at Ace Buchan, or Caio Ibelli or any of the middle of the road guys. Not everyone can be Kelly. But if you want to be Kelly, then follow these steps multiplied by 10. (Or 11 for that matter). 2. Learn how to read, write, speak and think in English. Don’t be a dumbass. You have interviews to do. Statistics prove that smart travellers get the best results. Homesickness is a deal breaker. Grow up. 3. Learn to eat world food and love every bit of it. You think Kelly Slater just won the Triple crown at 47 years old on Florida fried home cookin’? 4. Love wearing wetsuits. It’s not called the seven seas for nothing. 5. Absorb all the stats on absolutely everything about professional surfing past and present. You are going to be a part of it. 6. To hell with drugs and only drink red wine in moderation. You want to be John John or dead? 7. Do not rely on raw talent. Without hard, obsessive work, guys with raw talent are a dime a dozen and will always be a footnote. Look at Dane Reynolds.
Though aerials have become compulsory competitive maneuvers, the air game is still developing. The idea now is to have a repertoire and to grease the landings. But never, ever forget that deep carves and skilled tuberiding will always be where it’s at. Bronson Meydi, Keramas, working on his routine. Are you?
8. Decide on your goals right now and write them down and stick them to the ceiling of your bedroom right over your pillow so that they are the last thing you see before you go to sleep and the first thing you see when you wake up. Lazy is another word for loser. 9. Pick a winner, study him and do your best to hang with him. Whether you know him or not. Whether he is in your life or not. Keep him in mind. Do as he has. (Unless he is Andy Irons, then just kiss your career goodbye). 10. Get feedback from the right people and buy them lunch. That’s feedback. Yes? Not empty praise. And leave your sissy emotions out of it. Listen,
Godammit. And then go do. And remember, unless your Dad is Kelly Slater, parents don’t count. They are family, not coaches. 11. If someone gives you shit, punch them in the mouth, no matter who they are. Don’t be a pussy. 12. Get the Banzai Pipeline wired in your teens. Or forget a WSL surfing career. 13. Take chances, make mistakes. And forgive yourself for them. 14. Be fair in all things and treat everyone as you would like them to treat you. This is not about loving everyone like you
are some sort of lamb…this is about loving yourself as if you were a magnificent tiger. 15. Do it now. Kelly Slater won his first world title at 20 years old. Get to work.
Video analysis show that all great surfers do their greatest carving maneuvers with their hands below their shoulders. It maximizes the ergonomic pressure of your body in relation to the rail, allowing complete power transfer. Aside from adding zest to your lines, it also defines your style. Bronson Meydi at Rocky Point, using the Hawaiian power to work on his biometrics.
MICHAEL FEBRUARY FINDS HIS AFRICA Photos and words by Alan van Gysen
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efore there was music, there was the beat. The rhythm. The flow that allows individuals to move together as one. The placement of sounds in time, the beat of a drum, a stomping foot. If we perceive musical rhythm as movement then it is becomes obvious in surfing. These movements are the essence of creative freedom. Which is exactly what led Michael February to seek his Africa. And this time it led to a small fishing village where I asked him a few random questions about where his head was at. A place on his continent where he learned that once you strum a chord, you can’t stop the sound. Alan Van Geysen: What was it like surfing all alone? Michael February: Surreal. The wave was so long and every time I would do a runaround there would be another empty lineup of perfect waves and no other surfers on earth.
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If ever a surfer deserved to find an empty line-up on his own continent, then it would be Michael February. Surfing alone on a coast that was once a slave shipping region and hailing from a country that has suffered long from Apartheid, February has the birthright to surf alone on his continent wherever he damn well pleases. He has the pride, the legacy and most of all, the interest in the dark continent that will forge any fair future for Africa. If only all men were this connected to their lands, we might never be monsters again.
Right: There is a deep sadness in how the generations can erase a brutal past. How extraordinary beauty can rise from the nightmares of slaving’s history. Although the haunting can be an ever present legacy behind the eyes, therein also lies the hope for the future. Simplicity seems to be the key for mankind. Why the hell do we complicate things so? Spread: Perhaps the undeniable freedom of surfing on this coast is the greatest form of protesting the past. Michael February, with alot more to room to move than the ancestors of these sands, celebrating a liberty unimaginable a scant 200 years previous.
Right on. What do you think about free surfing and competitive surfing? I think it’s fun to be creative and try new things within surfing, riding different boards and so on. But I still enjoy the competitive feeling of contests. Tell us about the choice of the number 54 jersey on the WSL tour? It felt like quite a big decision when choosing my number. I ended up researching the number of countries in Africa and that’s how I got it. it felt like a perfect fit. You grafitti your boards? Yes. I spraying simple, big letters with different phrases and words. It’s about sending a positive message and showing what I stand for. Things that are important to me.
On this coast you will find slave castles still standing. Imagine this room, crammed belly to back with your brothers and sisters, up to your ankles in feces, blood and disease. That being the last memory of your homeland before being shipped like meat across the Atlantic, never to return again. Indeed, on this coastline, “Until the Lion has his historian, the hunter will always be the hero”. With a quiver that represented the freedom that Michael February wished to bring to this land, getting to the beach was as improvisational as his performances in the water.
Surfing, art and music are obviously big contemporaries in your life; what is it about these three that inspires you? I feel like it’s a reflection of what I was surrounded by growing up. I started surfing young, grew up in a very creative environment and naturally everyone loves music. They all complement each other, especially within surfing. You are working on a new film project called ‘Nu Rhythmo’? This was my first proper free surf project. It was inspired by Afro rhythms, the colourful wax print materials and the vibrant album artwork that you find in African music. I really want it to be a worthy entry into the freesurfing world.
Freedom is the power to choose our own chains. Michael February, all alone, with all the time in the world to pick and choose. Serving his individual desires on a playing field 90% of all surfers would prefer to the death tubes that soak the internet. On a day like this, in a place like this, the only constraint one feels is having to answer the question “Shall I have one more?”
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Photography by Liquid Barrel
Somewhere over the rainbow skies are blue, and the dreams that you dare to dream really come true. Afonso Banhold, way off grid, digging into the pot of gold.
It is undeniable that yoga and surfing are very similar in that they both demand a meditative state. But the difference between the two is that when you are on a wave the act is more hair raising than harmonious.
LUMINESCENT: THE MEDITATIONS OF TREVOR MURPHY
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here is such a thing as a box of magic. It was known as the Camera Obscura and in the year 1685 it blew the roof off of how we saw the world. Literally a new kind of eye, this simple looking box with a polished lens on the front and a mirror at a 45 degree angle inside it, allowed a projection image of the outside world to appear on a piece of paper below it. Although
a live image, it still allowed an artist to trace, in incredible detail, the world around him. By filling the image in later with paints and colors, most of the greatest art in the world was created. It was this innovation, which translates in Latin to darkened chamber, that led to the photography we see today. Even the photos you shoot with your phone. So it is in the spirit of this legacy
that we present Surftime’s artist-in-residence Trevor Murphy’s latest portfolio. Who, like the first men who captured images of the world around us, continues to capture the wonder of the evolution of human imagination. Proof that photography has never been about technology, but about proof. Proof that we savour our lives. Particularly when our hearts are racing.
Waves breath. And on this sunset in Padang, West Sumatra, Murphy captures the last sigh of a day filled with the memories of a Mentawai Boat trip. Tomorrow, the airport and home.
Left: It is the power of freshwater artesian wells that give the shape to all reefs. Here in the grooves carved by fresh water, the cycle of sacred water is in clear evidence. Rain, run off, metamorphosis, evaporation, rain. The process which creates the seas. And we surf right over it without a thought of how it came to exist. Right: All Trevor Murphy will tell us about this spot is that it is “East of the Wallace Line”. That’s the thing about photography. You don’t always have to kiss and tell.
The boat. The beach hut. And the reason in between. Three elements of what surfing puts before our eyes like a camera itself. Murphy makes it very difficult for us to forget the profound adventure of our sport and the striking connection we have with the cosmos.
Left: From Murphy: “Made Lana is such a cool cat. I’ve known him for years and he’s one of those grounded figures. Smiles all day, endless amounts of stoke and very welcoming. I wish more people would take a page out of this guys book”. Right: Ejecting is also transitioning. From the roar of the surface to the silence of the suspension. Unlike any other, our sport is photographed as intimately as rolling into bed with a lover. And that just might be the whole reason photographers like Trevor Murphy swim out and get it on.
THE GREAT SURFTIME/LOST PHOTO CONTEST C
ongratulations to Italian photographer Federico Vanno , the winner of our annual photography contest. He will be receiving a LOST/Mayhem custom surfboard from the White Monkey Surf Shop at Padang Padang. With the contest rules being that you must have shot a portrait and a surf shot of the same surfer, the Surftime judges felt that out of all the entries, these two photos showed the most creativity and soul. Two you-are-there moments
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of Kolohe Andino when he was still in the running for a world title on the North Shore. But this sensitive portrait, despite the pressure of competition, still reflects the fun of it all. And the surf shot, by contrast, the intensity. So congratulations to Federico and great thanks to the two-time Surftime Awards winning White Monkey Surf Shop and their best boards in town. Pay a visit the shop sometime, because a magic board can change your life. Just ask Federico‌
DRIVER 2.0
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G A L L E R Y TROPICAL. SMILE. SOUL. INTIMATE.
Tonjo Darmaputra living a graceful moment of re-birth on his homegrounds. Clearly a product of love. Photography by Photobossbali
TROPICAL. SMILE. SOUL. INTIMATE. Our new World champion, ascending to the top of the heap and climbing still. As if the ocean was not enough, with the advent of aerial’s, the sky is now also ours. Photography by Liquid Barrel
TROPICAL. SMILE. SOUL. INTIMATE. There is a violence to Varun Tandjung’s surfing. A savagery. With every off the lip looking like a a personal vendetta. There is a source deep in the heart of all good surfers where the motivation to rip a wave comes in. Funny, with all the talk about our love for the ocean and how much we want to save it, we also want to tear it to pieces. Photography by Pete Frieden
TROPICAL. SMILE. SOUL. INTIMATE. Nyoman Satria’s delicate broken glass moment. Where breathing and blood and muscle and grace all conform to the power of the Ocean. There really are times when a surfer can actually enhance the beauty of a breaking wave. The trick is in accepting the hug, and not being the first to let go. Photography by Photobossbali
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SHOP REVIEW
RIP CURL HOME AT LAST
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pened on August 2018, this flagship store in Padang Padang, Bali has a new concept Located a just few steps from the famous Padang Padang beach, this 245 square foot store benefits from great natural light through the glass entrance, reinforcing the brand’s strong relationship with the outdoors. With a beautiful grass roof this new, fresh and clean store design layout gives the ability to fully showcase the brand and its products. Including the latest Mirage Boardshorts collection,
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Rip Curl’s award winning My Bikini Swimwear collection and all the other quality products that has made Rip Curl Bali’s premium international Surf brand for decades. At its heart a hardcore surf shop, never forget that they also feature the finest range of High Performance Surfboards on the market. Rip Curl Padang Padang Jalan Labuan Sait No. 3, Pecatu, Padang Padang Telp. +62 361 4466724
RIP CURL LANDS IN LOMBOK
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ip Curl opened its first store in Lombok on 28 November 2019. This beautiful beachside store offers a romantic view of one of the best beaches in Bali. Lombok Island has actually become one of the world famous surfing destinations” says Ms. Jeanny Kwee, General Manager, “Moreover, the Indonesian government has made the Kuta Mandalika area the next tourism destination and
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will have a MotoGP race arena. We are very happy to finally be able to work with Rip Curl to open this flagship store here”. As always, on the finest beaches in the world, Rip Curl is there. Rip Curl Kuta Lombok Jl. Pariwisata Kuta, Dusun Kuta1, Desa Kuta, Kec. Pujut Lombok Tengah, Nusa Tenggara Barat – 83573 Telp. +62 370 6502170
SHOP REVIEW
SISSTREVOLUTION: JOIN UP!
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ISSTREVOLUTION has multiple meanings. Sister, as in the women who surf and quite literally the sister brand of Vissla, evolution, to illustrate moving forward, revolution, bringing advances into women’s surfwear, and even “love” spelled backward, a hidden meaning that adds another layer to the mystique. SISSTR is based in the surf. There are no models in the ad campaigns, just real surfers, creators and ocean lovers. It’s the high-performance, eco-conscious brand all of us wished was around when we were younger. It’s inspired by young women ages 12-25, who are looking for stability and fit that doesn’t compromise style. For today’s Ocean lady, SISSTR is the go.
Jalan monkey Forest, Ubud, Bali
KATE WOOD ROCKS!
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new eco-friendly and environmentallysound brand, Kate Wood Originals has opened the doors to its second flagship store in Canggu. Using wood and bamboo, they create lightweight and comfortable products for those who value beauty and quality. From their cozy and organic-styled Canggu outlet, each Kate Wood Original is unique and designed out of a love for nature and craftsmanship. These are conscientiously built products made to last because they want you to cherish these products for a lifetime. And each product comes with a personal guarantee to make you happy. Let’s all face it...now is the time for products like these. Drop by and see why. Kate Wood | Jl. Pantai Berawa 34, Bali, Canggu Berawa, Indonesia bali@katewood.com | +6281246437787 Also available at: Cafe Del Mar Beach Club,Canggu, FINNS Beach Club, Canggu, By The Sea, Seminyak Website: www.katewood.com Instagram: katewood_originals FB: Kate Wood Originals
FREE RIP CURL GIVEAWAY! Surftime, Thanks for that last cover shot. In this day and age of GoPro madness and spinning airs it was so refreshing to see a solid, vertical off the lip. I believe this kind of a maneuver is really the sign of a good surfer. Airs are cool, sure, but a big, vertical, power move off the top will always be King. Thanks again for reminding us. Brian Gavin Uluwatu Brian, Oh, we agree. That is exactly why we chose that photo for our last cover. Also, here in the land of endless left barrels, it always feels good to see a surfer like Usman Trioko using the the whole canvas of a wave rather than treating it like a skate ramp. Drop by the office for your RIP CURL prize package for letter of the month! Ed.
CLOSE OU T:
LOOKING BACK Rough Riders Of The Surf
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he world’s fascination with Hawaii is nothing new. Much like Bali, it has always been about the promise of physical freedom. A place to undress your desires and let them walk around nude. Consider these images. A home and cooking magazine cover from the winter of 1926 depicting a cherub ringing in the New Year. On what today could be considered Rob Machado’s alaia no less. And next to it a Honolulu tourist board photo of a group of “American’s all, in Hawaii!” regarding the finer points of the pagan sexual freedom that Waikiki has always represented. And yet…as goofy as these images may seem to the sincere surfer, take heart. That is actually the great Tom Blake standing in the white Elvis shorts holding the object of his true affection. Ignoring the shenanigans to his right, obviously more interested in the waves up at Ala Moana. There it is. In clear relief. The true fascination that Hawaii has always given us. Beyond the nudity, beyond the tiny bubbles, beyond the aloha, even beyond the reef, the truth lies in every unbroken wave we long to ride on her tremendous shores. Long live Hawaii. And long live us for our form of worshipful devotion over the ages.
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Photography by Pete Frieden
