THE SHORT HISTORY OF BALI SURFING

Bali, Circa 2005, surfer inspired tourist construction is the heartbeat of the island.

Bali, Circa 1984, the surfer invasion is in full swing.

The dictionary definition of a wanderer is one who travels around aimlessly with no purpose, but in my life long wandering around the planet I was always on a mission surfing and creating art. These are wonders of the world and in essence, they are one and the same. And I have dedicated my life to finding them. I have been riding the best waves and photographing them and then painting the energy of the experience in a way that no one has done before. I have been doing this for over 40 years. I was destined to be a discoverer, an explorer and a pathfinder.

This is how I was raised and how I lived my life. It’s in my blood.

I discovered surfing in Monterey California before it was considered cool by the mainstream. It was the “anti-thing to do”. Surfers were looked down upon by society and even the small group of surfers that lived in the area were, in the beginning, very territorial and hos-