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[ CONTENTS

______ ______ ____ 66-81 30-63 86-8 THE AUDACIOUS SURGE M SURGE EMPTIES CASE OF GT

______ 160-168 SURGE ARTIST SULUAPA AISEA TOETUU

DUBKONS

______ ______ 194-197 182-191 MEGA WATTS KONA GROWN KEAHI PARKER

MARK SIMON WAT

___ ______ ______ 89 94-100 108-155 MUSIC ALOHA MY NAME STYLE & POWER

SCIOUS

IS BEEG TODD

______ ______ ______ 240-253 7 200-239 262-285 DUBBS WORLD LOVE HATE THE DK LIFE

TTS

NORTH SHORE

MIKE STEWART | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY

SURGE3.0 ]

CLICK HERE >>

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THE AUDACIOUS CASE OF GT | BY EVAN FA

PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON / FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY

He is the epitome of unconventional. He does not cross his legs like an Australian, does not idolize Stewart, and does not care what you think about him. On the contrary, he is completely sovereign—his style and approach all his own. He does not hesitate in the wrath of fear nor does he give slack to his competitors. He is six-time world champion— Guilherme “GT” Tamega.

As one zaps back to the era of Mike Stewart’s utter domination, no doubt Stewart had laid the groundwork for the sport in terms of technique, achieved countless world titles at Pipeline and unadulterated media coverage. Essentially the sport had

become him and he the sport. Then seemingly out of nowhere an energetic GT blazed onto the scene to erase the competition at Pipeline and actually challenge Stewart in the years to come … and defeat him.

Despite GT’s extensive list of credentials, for some odd reason skepticism surrounds him. Instead of giving him his due praise, people tend to miscalculate the things he has accomplished. They say he won all those world titles because he’s crazy, utterly fearless. Or they disregard him because they don’t like his style. Regardless of what people say, GT is one of the most naturally talented, audacious athletes the sport will ever have the pleasure of witnessing.

As we speak GT is in the race for the title. Can he make it a seventh? Yes. Will he?

Here is his case. You decide for yourself.

PH: ANDREW RAMS | FACEBOOK.COM/ANDREWRAMSPHOTOGRAPHY

“I was kind of an anti-Stewart beca My whole deal wa

ause I had to be…. as to take him out.”

Evan: What was it like growing up in Brazil?

GT: I think it was great. I love Brazil. I think it’s the best country in the world. It’s my country. It’s my language. Weather wise, waves, people … I tell everybody to go because everybody that goes freaks out. But right now, it’s not for me. There are lots of things, especially political, I don’t agree with. I can’t watch the corruptions. I’m tired of it.

Plus I don’t like how the government treats the best athletes that represent the country. They should take care of the VIP athletes they have, but they don’t. I see a lot of people with a lot of talent that could be representing Brazil like no one else, but they can’t because they don’t have money to do it. They don’t have sponsors.

Evan: So that is one of the reasons you decided to bring the family to Hawaii?

GT: I love the United States. I love Hawaii. I come here every year, and I’ve been coming here since I was sixteen. So I have a lot of history with this place. My wife loves it here, too, so that’s how we ended up moving here for good.

Evan: How did you first get into bodyboarding in Brazil?

GT: I was born and raised in Copacabana Beach. I started going bodysurfing when I was eight, nine years old with one of my brothers in Copacabana. It’s a really heavy closeout shorebreak. That’s how I started getting confident and really liking those sorts of waves.

Then by 1983 Morey Boogie started showing up in Brazil. It started growing. All the bodysurfers really wanted one of those boards. I started with one of the Styrofoam boards. Then from the Styrofoam board I asked my dad for a Morey Boogie 139, the one with no slick bottom. I just wanted to ride on top of the thing.

I will never forget my first wave in my first session. I took off on this wave with no fins. I didn’t know you needed fins. I took off and threw my body to do a bottom turn, and I just slide all the way to the beach. I couldn’t make the bottom turn because when you don’t have fins you’re totally lost and out of control on the board. I thought, “God! This is harder than I thought.”

Then I just kept going. A couple months later I got my first pair of fins.

When did you get into competing in Brazil?

Like eight months after I got my first boogie. I started bodyboarding in April 1985, and in December 1985 Redley had a big national competition. The heats were man on man. I got second place in amateur. I beat a lot of really fancy big name guys. Paulo Esteves, an old

“Some people are blocked; they the fe

PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON / FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY

y just can’t get past ear of getting hurt.”

school pro, just worked me in the final. It’s funny because it really got my name out there.

The sport was growing. I started doing really well in every competition after that. My dad was really proud. He could never believe that I could be good at this thing.

Evan: Where do you think your competitive drive comes from?

GT: I am the youngest of four boys in my family. You know how the youngest one always wants to show off, always really competitive, and always wants to show daddy that he can do better than the older guys. I grew up playing soccer, playing this and that with my brothers and trying to beat them. That’s how I ended up becoming really competitive.

Evan: Before you popped onto the scene, Stewart had dominated the sport for a long time. You were the first to really damage Stewart’s reign. Was he one of your motivations to win a world title?

GT: Yes, I was kind of an anti-Stewart because I had to be. That’s what drove me to accomplish everything that I accomplished. My whole deal was to take him out. He was the big guy.

I wanted to be a world champion. I won the Pipe event for the first time in 1994. Stewart and I had a lot of battles. A lot of things happened in our careers.

He was one of my biggest motivations. That’s what drove me back then, and I think I did really well.

I also wanted to show the world I could do it.

I wanted to show me I could do it because for a Brazilian guy to be recognized around the world is really tough. You really have to do it one, two, three times … you got to do it as many times as you can to be recognized because one time is not enough. You’re going to be erased straight away. They are going to find something wrong with you and talk shit about you to justify why you won and the bigger names lost.

This is also something that drove me and motivated me. The tough times in order to get my name out there and get recognition. Everything worked out really well for me because I think if I got a lot of recognition the first year like I was supposed to, I don’t think I would be six time world champion today. I probably would have only won two or three times and be sitting around in a king’s throne. The whole political thing I had to go through made me mad and drove me crazy.

Evan: Would you have done anything differently given the chance?

GT: I would do it all again. Everything happened in my life for a reason and had to happen. I wouldn’t do anything differently. It has been a fun ride.

Evan: So that Pipe victory in ’94 was your big turning point then?

GT: That was my dream—become a world champion.

Winning the Pipe event was the dream of any bodyboarder back then. It was the world championship. It’s Pipe, the biggest and most furious wave on the planet.

Mike Stewart was the man to beat. I wanted to beat him bad.

Then in 1993 I came really close. The waves were really small. It was like three foot Backdoor. I think I deserved to win that event, but they gave it to Eppo because he did a double rollo in the final. He got a really good score for that and they gave the title to him. That made me think, “They didn’t give it to me this year, but next year everyone better get out of my way.”

The next year was humungous. The biggest Pipe in all the events over the years. I got a 10 from all the judges, and it was the first time all the judges, across the board, scored a 10 on a wave.

Everything happened right for me in this event. It was, by far, the biggest highlight of my career. The recognition from my country when I got back was unbelievable. I got on the news and all over the place. I had people in the street stopping me to congratulate me for my accomplishment. It was an amazing time.

Evan: A lot of people still talk about that suicide roll you did in the final. What were you thinking?

GT: I don’t even know how I did that. I remember catching that wave, it was like twelve foot and it was closing out. I remember thinking I am going to hit it right there.

Evan: Was it that motivation to win a world title that drove you to do some life threatening things out there during the final?

GT: When the final started, everyone was worked. It was a really tough final because everyone was tired because we had already had four to five heats in ten to fifteen foot Pipe. It wasn’t a joke. I remember the announcer gave me a packet of vitamins. That thing really helped me out. I was really fresh for the final.

Hungry, too, because I had to win it.

I tried a rollo on one and didn’t land it. Tried to make a barrel on the second one and didn’t make it.

Tried another rollo and it didn’t work out. I was freaking out. I was taking off and going for it on whatever because that heat, that event, had to be me. Then I

PH: BRYAN PEZMAN | PEZPIX.COM

PH: ANDREW RAMS FACEBOOK.COM/ANDREWRAMSPHOTOGRAPHY

PH: ANDREW RAMS FACEBOOK.COM/ANDREWRAMSPHOTOGRAPHY

PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY

PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY

PH: ANDREW RAMS | FACEBOOK.COM/ANDREWRAMSPHOTOGRAPHY

finally got a little barrel. Completed some other maneuvers. Got that big rollo.

I actually thought I had lost the final. When I got out of the water my friend told me I won. No one else had completed anything. It was amazing.

Evan: Would you take that approach in a final again today?

GT: No, I am not going to do that again. I cannot even think about what I did in ’94 right now. That was like a crazy kid that had nothing to lose.

Evan: You’re being overly modest because we know you still do things just as crazy if not crazier than the stuff you did in that ’94 Pipe final. What is your psyche or mindset when you do the things you do?

GT: Today I am more cautious. Now I have kids so I have more things to lose than ever before. I think it was growing up in Copacabana, charging the shorebreak. I started liking that; liking those types of situations. The adrenaline, the fear—that stuff drives you.

I think I contributed a lot to the sport in terms of this. A lot of people have seen what I’ve done over the years and realize they can do it too. No big deal.

No one is going to die. People from all over the world can do it. Just go out there and have fun in the situation, whatever the situation is. Charge big waves and hit the lip because that’s what our sport is all about.

Hit the most difficult crucial parts of the wave … that’s what is so beautiful about our sport.

Evan: Do you ever feel hesitant when you drop in on waves or go for the lip on heavy sections?

GT: No. I get the same feeling in three to four foot waves as I would in twelve to fifteen foot waves.

Some people are blocked; they just can’t get past the fear of getting hurt. Of course, there is a lot behind this, too. You have to be fit, eat good, no drugs, no smoke, and those types of things. You have to be prepared. I have always been really professional about these sorts of things. That makes me more comfortable out there. Some people don’t work outside of the water, so that’s going to hurt them.

Evan: Looking at your gym inside the garage, it’s apparent that you prepare for the heavy situations you put yourself in. Plus you and your wife are pretty fit people. Do you push each other to train?

GT: We work out together. Everyday she has a different program. We push each other. I think it’s really important because when something works in a mar-

riage, it’s got to work both ways. Not only me, like I’m going to work out there. So we try to do everything combined so both us can be happy at the end of the day. That’s what we’ve been doing. Pushing each other really hard. It’s fun. Never gets boring.

Evan: Have you ever been in a situation where you felt fearful of losing your life?

GT: No, I’ve never had one of those. I think one of my worst wipeouts wasn’t the worst situation, believe it or not. Sometimes you get really critical wipeouts but it ends up not being that critical. Like, “I thought it was going to be worse than that.” Sometimes you take off on a one, two-foot waves that can be more dangerous than bigger waves. All of my cuts, stitches, and accidents are from smaller waves. I never got really hurt it bigger waves because I think there is a lot more water moving around. You’re going to deal with the underwater type of thing but not the reef. It’s really hard to hit the reef when it’s big unless it’s a really shallow spot.

Evan: Even at El Fronton?

GT: Even with El Fronton. I’ve been through a lot of things at Fronton but I never hit the reef really hard.

There is a lot of water moving around, and you really learn how to deal with the situations. You always have to stay close to your board, hold onto your leash … there are a lot of tactics that your learn through the years to try and avoid those types of situations.

Today I’m a lot more mature and cautious about these sorts of things. Sometimes, though, my whole instinct of charging just clicks it off and I have to do it. Sometimes I can’t restrain myself and I have to charge.

Evan: Elaborate a little bit more about your relationship with El Fronton, especially since the Canaries is one of the top breeding grounds for bodyboarders in the world.

GT: I really took Fronton and showed people what it was all about. The locals did not go out in heavy conditions and I did. I showed them that when it’s big, it’s ride able. It’s cool to be one of the riders to step it up at a spot like Fronton.

Evan: So you were pretty much surfing big Fronton by yourself back then?

GT: Yes. I was surfing big Fronton all by myself. I would go out to big Fronton and they would stay on the rocks and shoot.

I always hung out with Alexis Dias, who is one of the biggest names and locals in the Canaries.

I remember this one-day when we were out there,

PH: SASHA SPECKER | THESPEX.COM

“That was my dream—become a

a world champion.”

and there was a crowd of like ten people. Alex pulled everybody out of the water and told them to go on the rock and watch Tamega. He told them you’re not going to watch him here because there are too many distractions. So everyone got out of the water and I surfed it all by myself. It was probably six feet, which is pretty heavy there. It was a lot of pressure because I had to do good because everyone was watching.

PH: NEAL MIYAKE | HISURFADVISORY.COM

Evan: Let’s talk about style. You obviously have your own style and approach to riding waves. It’s undoubtedly functional, even one of the best in bodyboarding. What’s important to you about style? How do you interpret your style of bodyboarding? Do you feel like there’s an artistic approach to your riding?

GT: I’m not an artist, by any means. Things just happen naturally. My moves are more of a passion for hitting the lip than designing the whole move. The whole thing comes from the adrenaline and rush I feel at the moment. I know I don’t have the prettiest style in the world, but it’s always been functional to me. Plus it has put me on top of the world and won me six world titles and six vice world titles.

I love my style. It works on any type of wave.

Especially when it’s big, it works perfect. I’ve always been happy about it too. Then when everyone started crossing their legs, I said I’d never cross my legs because my style is the wide spread legs.

Evan: What is your thoughts on the whole Aussie style trend?

GT: It’s nice to watch. I’m not against their style. It works out good for them and the kids coming up now.

Whatever works out good for you, just be happy about it. I’m not against any style because I think it’s a minimal part of bodyboarding. Bodyboarding is radical, it is busting, and it is “Wow!” It pulls the “Wow” out of your mouth. You’re not going to find some spectator watch bodyboarding and go, “Wow! Look at that style!” That sounds kind of lame.

Evan: Haha! Good point Tamega. So back to Stewart. You were once bitter rivals, now that you and him are both veterans on the tour is there more of a shared camaraderie?

GT: Today I’m happier when he beats other guys. He’s in his late forties and he is still at it. It’s amazing. It’s such a motivation for all the bodyboarders around the world. I get stoked for him when he does well in a heat because I don’t think anyone else can go that far.

No one can do what he does right now.

When we are in the same heat together, it’s still heated. It always will be forever. I still have to do the best of my best to beat him today because he’s still Mike Stewart. Enough said.

Evan: What was one of your biggest clashes with Stewart in competition?

GT: Reunion Island was a really good one. I got Stewart in the semifinals, man on man. I’ll never forget that heat because Stewart was winning. I had the priority with thirty seconds or so left. Stewart had caught a wave before the set came. I needed one more wave. Since I didn’t have much time, I tried to catch the first one of the set. I looked at my watch and there were like twenty-five seconds left. As I was catching the first one I didn’t let go of it, but I looked back to see if there was a second one. There was so I backed off and went to the second one and just tore that thing apart and got the score I needed and turned the heat around and won.

It was a really tough one because Mike was surfing really solid.

In the Hoff Pro video, you can totally see the two different approaches to surfing between us. The way he rides, his style, carves. It’s like he designed it. Me, on the other hand, no. I just pulled out the chalkboard and scratched the whole thing top to bottom. I was just doing maneuvers one after another with no lines, no design, and a totally different approach. I just did what the wave asked for.

It was a good event. I ended up winning against Chris Burkart in the end.

“For me it’s all a pla

Evan: If we were to ask Stewart what his thoughts were about you as a bodyboarder, what do you think he would say?

GT: He would probably say I was the craziest guy to ever show up in bodyboarding. A lot of people can probably learn a lot from Tamega on how to be crazy, but that’s about it. He probably wouldn’t give me the props I deserve.

Evan: How much longer do you think you can compete on the IBA World Tour with younger guys like Pierre, Amaury, etc?

GT: I don’t know, man. I’ve been thinking of retiring from the tour.

The tour right now is a whole mental thing, a whole emotional thing for me. I go out to the tour events sometimes without wanting it. To want to win, to leave the house and leave my family here is tough. My kids and my family are the most important things to me right now. So it’s a big fight for me, and it has been for years now.

Once I’m there at a competition I have to do my best, of course. For me it’s all about winning. To do the world tour is to go for the win. Second place, third place, and fourth place … it’s all the same.

To get last or second place is all the same. It’s worth nothing. It’s all about winning or not. But I do want to win one more time, and then I’ll probably retire after that.

Evan: You and your wife have two children, a boy and a girl. Can we expect a men’s and women’s world champion to come from your household?

GT: I’m going to let them do whatever they want to do and teach them to be the best. That’s how I look at it. If you’re not going to be the best at something, go try something else. That’s what I did. I tried a couple

sports. If I didn’t see a future in it I tried something else. I tried BMX, swimming, judo (which I was pretty good), soccer, and then I found myself bodyboarding. So see where your talent is because each person has a talent. They have to find theirs.

Evan: Through your extensive time on the different world tour systems, which bodyboarders do you consider the top five most threatening competitors to go against?

GT: It’s been stages. In the beginning it was Ben Holland. He was definitely my biggest rival.

Then he went away and there was Andre Botha.

Then the newer guys now like Jeff Hubbard, Damien King, and Ben Player. There are a hand-

PH: ANDREW RAMS | FACEBOOK.COM/ANDREWRAMSPHOTOGRAPHY

about winning…. To get last or second ace is all the same. It’s worth nothing.”

ful of Aussies who are tough to beat. Couple Hawaiians, too. Brazilians.

Evan: Do you feel the IBA World tour is more competitive than back in the day?

GT: The tour is really tough today. Every heat is pretty much a final heat. You have to have that kind of approach.

You cannot rely on luck anymore. You really have to do your best or you’re not going to make it. That’s why the sport is growing and will be huge one day.

Evan: Speaking of which, why do you think the bodyboarding industry is the way it is right now? Do you think it will ever grow into something bigger?

GT: I have my faith in the bodyboarding industry. I don’t know how long it is going to take. The tour is changing for good right now. It’s the best tour we’ve ever had. What was

supposed to be done before wasn’t because of greed. The whole industry was too greedy. They didn’t get together to figure out what was good for the sport. They were more concerned about selling more boards than competitors.

They didn’t think about the future. That’s the reason why it is the way it is. The stronger companies stuck around, the weaker ones went away.

Over and out.

Dubkonscious is a Hawaiian Roots Reggae band livicated to changing the thinking and oppressive governmental structure of modern society within the islands and throughout the world. Through music we strive to bring about positive change and create a unified society in this crucial time when money hungry politicians and corporate rule threaten the existence of all life on this planet.

JT: Introduce yourself and the band members of your group, how the name Dubkoncious came to be.

Dubkonscious: Mike Love – Vocals, Keyboards Koalani Lagareta – Vocals Paula Fuga – Vocals Kevin Richards – Guitar Brett Richards – Guitar Blaine Mateo – Bass Guitar Keola Nakamura – Trombone Bernie Soriano – Trumpet Brandon Hutson – Trombone Sam Gonsalves – Drums ML: We were throwing around a bunch of names and that one came up and everyone liked it cause it had a nice ring to it and it wasn’t just a silly name with no meaning. We performed a half a dozen times and then realized that there is another band in Georgia with the same name. We had already built a buzz around the name, so we just changed the c in conscious to a k and problem solved. Haha, we ended up liking the spelling better anyway.

JT: Why is Reggae music so infectious in Hawaii and you guys have such a huge cult following.

ML: Reggae music is and always has been an island music, with its origins in jamaica. People here always loved it, from the time Bob Marley brought it here. Its only natural when you live in a place so beautiful, you are surrounded by so much positive conscious energy, people gravitate towards conscious and positive music. We try to differentiate between roots reggae and jawaiian, because there is a huge difference. Many people take elements of the sounds of reggae music and try to replicate them, but they miss the true essence and spirit of the music. We focus on that spirit more, and with the sound we try to do our own thing, not just replicate what others have done in the past.

JT: The talent in Dubkonscious is unbelievable how did you guys all get together and what makes you guys click ML: The formation of the band mostly happened

PH: JT GRAY | FACEBOOK.COM/NORTHSHORESURFPHOTOS

Talkin Story with Mike Love of Dubkonscious

BY JT GRAY

before I ever came along. When I joined the group they were instrumental, with drums, bass, two guitars and two horns already intact. All they needed was vocals and keys. So I started singing and playing keys to fill the role and started writing songs with the band. I brought a couple of friends Paula and Koa to sing backups and they ended up bringing songs as well. Later the drum and bass changed and we gained another horn player, but the consistent thing that makes us work well together is communication. Whenever anyone has an idea or a problem we are open to each other and nobody has ego trips. Its a big band but we are such a happy family, and when we make mistakes we laugh at each other instead of getting mad.

We get along really well as people, so when it comes time to play, the energy flows.

JT: How you look at Hawaii in general and the people.

Your thoughts on the culture and why it’s so special.

ML: Hawaii is special because of the aloha. Its a cheesy thing to say maybe, but its true. For the most part people take care of each other even if they don’t even know each other. I think the beauty and the energy of the land makes people more open to each other. Unless they live in the city, nah just kidding.

JT: Tell us about your latest release, and what’s in store for the as far as shows and touring.

ML: At the Foot of the Mountain... was definately a labor of love for me. It took so long to finish and so much work, but in the end the positive feedback we’ve gotten from it is more than enough to get us excited about getting right back in the studio again. As far as shows and touring, who knows, we play wherever they’ll have us and whenever we can all get together. Live shows are the best, the energy of the fans, the excitement of improvisation, its what we live for. We hope to play more and more shows as our music spreads across the land.

JT: Talk about some of the influences in your life, and in your music.

ML: My main influences in life and music are the people i love, my wife, my kids, my parents, my friends. They inspire the music that I write, the things I write about.

Music is such a blessing, to become a vessel for it, to be able to give and receive its gifts has been one of the most important things in my life, without it I would be lost.

Music is how I release everything so that my energy can flow smoothly, it rejuvenates me, grounds me and makes me whole.

JT: What message are you trying to reach out to people that follow Dubkoncious

ML: Just to be positive, to be helpful and caring, to question the things around us that don’t seem right, and to make right the things we know are wrong. The message is often in between the lines or not in the lyrics at all, but in the emotion of the sound that happens when we all come together and sync up, not just the band, but the listeners too.

JT: Who would you like thank out there ML: Anyone who is willing to listen to the music, be open to in and give it a chance.

JT: Where can people find your music and more about the band: ML: www.dubkonscious.com JT: Any last words...

ML: Mahalo for thinking of us for this interview and for helping us to spread a positive message.

PH: JT GRAY | FACEBOOK.COM/NORTHSHORESURFPHOTOS

JACOB ROMERO | PH: EVAN FA | EVANFA.BLOGSPOT.COM

JONAH, KINGSLEY, KONA | PH: EVAN FA | EVANFA.BLOGSPOT.COM

TODD SANDY’S SHOREBREAK | PH: ANDREW RAMS | FACEBOOK.COM/ANDREWRAMSPHOTOGRAPHY

Aloha, My Name is Beeg Todd Todd Martin

By Evan Fa He is probably one of the most familiar faces in the sport. Not because he has grazed the covers of magazines. Not because you’ve seen him in a contest jersey at Pipeline. (Although, he may very will be the one passing them out to you on contest day as beach marshal for the IBA and USBA.) He is familiar because he is one of the great ambassadors for the sport of bodyboarding. His name is Beeg Todd.

I met up with Beeg Todd at his stomping ground, Makapu’u, and sat across from him at one of the benches overlooking the surf and famous lighthouse. He slipped me a vintage Bodyboarding Magazine and I fanned through its pages while he provided narrative about the old school and the sport’s history. He then spoke about his wife, Charity Grace Martin, and son, Noah—they mean everything to him. As I was listening to him, I couldn’t help but realize that Todd truly is the essence of aloha. That he simply loves bodyboarding. That he loves his family. These two things make Beeg Todd a happy man.

With that said, his profile came together as we talked story at this bench. There wasn’t any pre-set order of question and answer.

Nothing but a recorder, the trades, summer sun, and our conversation.

Below is an excerpt.

How did you first get into bodyboarding? Ahhh … in 1971 we lived in town at Papakolea. My brother was already going to Kamehemeha.

My grandparents were living in Nu’uanu. Then my father and ma got the house in Kailua and we moved to the east side. It just progressed from going to Kalamas. Riding our bikes twenty to twenty-five minutes all the way to Kailua Beach from our house and frolicking around … boogie boarding. That’s what they called it.

Boogie boarding was a new thing, right? Yeah, I remember when Morey came out with its kit and, later on, the actual board they were selling in Long’s Drug back in the day. The flex was beyond flex, but the boards stayed together unlike those styrofoam cooler boards. Get all the rash on your stomach. I progressed from there. I didn’t do it as much back then as when I got older. One day my brother got good at surfing but I was no good at it. I was getting taller and taller (Todd is 6’6”) so I can say that is one of the reasons I got into bodyboarding.

I went from there … doing it more. Of course, I started going out to The Wall. That’s really when I learned how to bodyboard. Seeing Kainoa there really young, Bonga Perkins, Kavan Okumura and all the old school guys with the paipo boards. Just progressing ‘til I went over there (signally with a hand gesture) to Sandy’s. Never looked back.

These are your zones, huh? Sandy’s and Maks? I started going to Sandy’s before here at Maks, because here was different. Looked the same but less bodyboarders back then, of course. Everybody was going to Sandy’s back then. Guys were preparing for the North Shore there.

After a while I just started coming here. It can be fickle because of the

BEEG TODD | PH: EVAN FA | EVANFA.BLOGSPOT.COM

wind swell. A lot of guys can’t handle it because it basically breaks from outside and reforms. Sandy’s is like our California, I guess, with all the crap going doing in the parking lot. Haha! The lifeguards will say, “The club is now open. It’s 9 o’clock.”

Having seen the sport progress from its beginnings to now, what’s your take on it all? Compared to the boards we had back then to what the kids have now, talk about progress. I like what Stewart says, “It’s basically the same shape.” Everyone tweaks the tail, channels, concave, and stringers, of course, but it’s basically the same board as when I started. Except for all of the tricks and big wave bodyboarding, it’s basically lay on your stomach, fins or not … go!

I taught my wife, Charity, and son how to bodyboard in a lake in Canada. They got the basics before they got here. A little push, of course. It’s not that hard to learn how to catch a wave, and you don’t have to be a super star to catch waves. Ahhh! It hasn’t changed all these years.

If you want to go to the next level, of course, you got to do a lot of things. For me, it’s just fun brah. Always has been, always will. And working at the contests is part of it. Do something I always wanted to do: Help out the sport; support the sport. Stewart and me always talk about it. Any-

thing you can do to help out the sport, do it! Like Surge.

Better than that other mag I have melting on my dash.

Stewart gets pretty technical. Not just about bodyboarding but riding waves. If you talk to Stewart, man, he can get technical about boards. But you learn a lot. Take it in because it’s like, “Wow!” I remember looking at the old mag. Stewart used to do articles. They called it, “Little Black Book.” He would scribble notes on techniques. One he talked about how to use the foam ball to come out of the barrel on a big day. There was a spot to aim for to make it.

I used it and it worked. Just a little knowledge from him goes a long way.

How did you get involved in the contests as a beach marshal? All our friends. All the people we know are the same ones running the contests. After working the Pipe and Honolua contest, I met a lot of people. It just progressed from there. The sponsors, the riders … I can honestly say I know them all.

Man, I feel like there aren’t enough contests happening here in Hawaii. That needs to change. What do you think about the future of the sport?

TUBE TIME | PH: ANDREW RAMS | FACEBOOK.COM/ANDREWRAMSPHOTOGRAPHY

Considering that you’ve seen quite a bit more of the beef between bodyboarding and surfing, what do you think it will take for the sport to sprout again?

We will never beat surfing. We cannot but that’s what the whole idea is … do our own thing.

We’re the cats, they’re the dogs. We don’t get along but it’s a lot better than it was back in the day. More respect. More civil.

Surfers are more irritated with the SUP guys than us. It’s really heating up. That’s the next battle right there. Forget the bodyboarders.

Now it’s the guys coming out with a paddle, sitting way outside everyone and catching all the waves even off the longboarders. Now we have some space to move around. We got the respect and exposure.

I know there are plenty of people you would like to thank Beeg Todd. Let’s hear it.

Thanks to my wife Charity Grace, my son Noah, and my ‘ohana. Ross at No Friends, Skip, Cory and Alisha at Foam Co, Keola at DC, Pete “PMA” Anaya, Glenn at Turbo, Jun Jo at Aloha Army/In4mation. To everyone else, mahalo for your friendship!

BEEG TODD | PH: EVAN FA | EVANFA.BLOGSPOT.COM

My generation had, the generation now is in a gap. Too bad for the guys now because the kids coming up are going to benefit on what’s going on now. The kids now are sponsored up the okole (butt). A lot of the kids are like, “What now?” I tell them, brah, you are not going to get rich off this, but you get to go travel. Eh, take it! Because when you get to a certain age you’re not going to get into the water as much as you do now because you’re going to have to get a J-O-B. So as an older person I tell them to go, but you’re going to have to do some work. I tell them not to treat is as work but that your sponsors are giving you stuff so you have to pay them back a little bit.

One Season, One Love NS 2011

By Paul Benco Mark Balasbas—Heights Productions/ Spunjahchronic. com—brings you Oahu’s North Shore bodyboarding/surfing scene like you’ve never seen it before in NS 2011. Filmed entirely in HD, and all within the first and last day of the ‘10 to ‘11 winter, this is a must have to prepare for this upcoming winter season, wherever you live around the world.

A captivating soundtrack, along with surreal perspectives in and out of the water mixed in with explosive wave riding equals a video that truly personifies a North Shore experience.

First off, the music: The unique and continuous flow of various tracks by DJ Bobby Ragu made me feel like I was on a continuous journey through the subtle seasonal changes of Hawai’i’s fall to spring. Here’s an excerpt from the NS ‘11 YouTube description: “Heights Productions & Icebreaker Studios collaborated to put down a live soundtrack. DJ Bobby Ragu of Long Island, NY, lays down a live 40 minute mixtape soundtrack. After studying the film, DJ B.R. went into the studio and mixed the soundtrack in one shot: a blend of hip-hop, jazz, dubstep, and reggae. Listen to the words in the music as it enhances the story about each particular surf session.”

While there is a blend of bodyboarding and surfing within this movie, the vast majority focuses on the local bodyboarding talent in Hawai’i. Not only are the usual suspects (The Hubbards, Mike Stewart, Spencer Skipper, Jacob Romero, Paul Benco, Happy Zurowski, Micah McMullin) all found within the video, but the definite underground local talent (Chris Kalima, Derek Miyashiro, Nakana Rivera, Herman Ano, Oh Brothers, and many others) blows up the video and makes it truly impressive, once again instilling the idea that Hawai’i is where bodyboarding’s roots run deep. While the top shelf bodyboarding is what really seals the deal and makes it a complete DVD for me, there is also footage for anyone interested in wave riding, including SUP riders and bodysurfers who are equally committed to the bowls at Pipeline and Backdoor.

Review on BN9

By Kaipo Patterson (Kaipo is a not a bodyboarder.

He was asked to provide a review from an “outsider’s perspective”) Boogie Nation opens up with the Mortal Kombat song that makes you want to fight, but instead of saying Mortal Kombat in the song it yells BOOGIE NATION. It’s crazy! Then there are some sick aerials from these crazy bodyboarders and a large truck getting air on the beach, then a guy flipping off a wave. That’s all in the first few seconds of Boogie Nation 9. After that the craziness continues with more guys getting air, a guy in a red mask who probably does snuff films on the side, and a sleeping kangaroo... These guys at Boogie Nation don’t give a f__. They’ll put Kangaroos in their bodyboarding videos just because no one else has the vision to see how cool land bound marsupials can be when giving the opportunity to showcase their ocean sport abilities.

That’s what makes Boogie Nation.

So check out this video with guys dropping their knee better than Muay Thai specialists and air moves that probably don’t even have names yet for them. Crazy cool. Boogie Nation 9 … game on.

YOU CAN CHECK BOOGIE NATION 9 HERE: http://vimeo.com/25924112

LINE UP | PH: ALEX VERHARST | VERHARSTPHOTOGRAPHY.BLOGSPOT.COM

EPPO & MACKA | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY

SPENCER SKIPPER | PH: JT GRAY FACEBOOK.COM/NORTHSHORESURFPHOTOS

JACOB VANDERVELDE | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY

EVAN FA | PH: MORGAN HALAS

JOSH GARNER | PH: CLARK LITTLE CLARKLITTLEPHOTOGRAPHY.COM

MORGAN HALAS | PH: VINCE CAVATAIO VINCECAVATAIO.COM

BRIAN WISE | PH: ANDREW RAMS FACEBOOK.COM/ANDREWRAMSPHOTOGRAPHY

MARK WATTS | PH: SACHA SPECKER THESPEX.COM

KAHEKILI LABATTE | PH: DAVID BAKER FACEBOOK.COM/DAVIDBAKER

PAUL BENCO | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY

TOM RIGBY | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY

ANDRE BOTHA | PH: ANDREW RAMS FACEBOOK.COM/ANDREWRAMSPHOTOGRAPHY

OUTER ISLAND | PH: DOOMA PHOTOS FACEBOOK.COM/DOOMAPHOTOS

MARK MCCARTHY | PH: SACHA SPECKER THESPEX.COM

MARK MCCARTHY | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY

JEFF HUBBARD | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY

JOSH ROMERO | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY

JEFF HUBBARD | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY

BRANDON ROSA | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY

JARED HOUSTON | PH: SACHA SPECKER THESPEX.COM

JARED HOUSTON | PH: ANDREW RAMS FACEBOOK.COM/ANDREWRAMSPHOTOGRAPHY

MIKE STEWART | PH; COLIN MCGILLIVARY FACEBOOK.COM/COLINMCGILLIVARY

JONAH ROMERO | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY

BEN PLAYER | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY

JACOB ROMERO | PH: DOOMA PHOTOS FACEBOOK.COM/DOOMAPHOTOS

PH: COURTESY OF SOULSIGNATURETATTOO.COM

PH: COURTESY OF SOULSIGNATURETATTOO.COM

PH: COURTESY OF SOULSIGNATURETATTOO.COM

PH: COURTESY OF SOULSIGNATURETATTOO.COM

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Shacks and Shakas

By Alisha Kayama The premiere of Shacks and Shakas, by Marcus Rodrigues and Michael Kini, went down at Charley’s restaurant and bar in Paia in classic Maui style. The Maui spunjah nation came together to rage. Nothing like filling an entire bar with bodyboarders… pure stoke. The film is epic with many of Hawaii’s and the world’s best (and some local underground rippers) riding all kine Hawaii and Tahiti zones. From secret home zones to Pipe and beyond, guys are killing. Stoney beats provide the background sounds, including a new single by Koa Lopes of Inna Vision.

Here’s what two of the stars of the show, Kona Kuailani and Kingsley Uaiawa, have to say about Shacks and Shakas.

Alisha: How was the premiere?

Kona: You’re seriously asking? Oh yeah, was good! Super good!

Kingsley: Premiere was mental, couldn’t even hear the audio. Anyone who boogied before was there… even some groupies! Super good amping vid and mental showing!

Alisha: Kona, your acting skills are top notch You ever think of entering into an acting career?

Kona: I actually wanted to try out for Twilight but I have no Native American, and I don’t want to disrespect anyone. Hopefully something comes knocking at the door. Serious. And Kings will do porn for money! Haha!

Kingsley: Yeah, Kones’ acting is top notch, I’ll give him that. His best scene was the run into that epic nipple shot. I’m smelling a career change for him for sure!

Alisha: Final thoughts?

Kona: Yeah, movie is sick! Big ups to MarAlisha: Fave segment? cus and Michael, team of two! Making aweKona: Jacob Romero for sure. He make strong so hard and he take care.

It’s cool to see everything I taught him on the big screen! He’s a samu- some vids for life! Maui influences (you know who you are): The Foam Co, Surge Bodyrai! Animal next level stuff! boarding, No.6 bodyboards, all the peeps that Kingsley: Jacob’s. Of course everyone was ripping super hard, and made it possible, and GOD. Making everyobviously Jeff is the man, but to see Jake right there with the world’s best and coming from Maui and doing some D.R.S. is sick! New moves thing in life come together. Big shakas gangy!

Kingsley: Speechless. Thanks for Marcus always baby! New moves. Plus his song is mental. Ha! NINJA! taking care and taking time to show people the

PH: COURTESY OF MARCUS RODRIGUES, BEEG TODD, & JIM BAYLESS

love of the sport. What he does when he and Kini get together is epic always!

I also like the up to date technology; everything is crisp and top of the line.

If you wanna get amped, go get Shacks and Shakas bu!

KEAHI PARKER | PH: KIHOLO

KEAHI PARKER | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY

In the summer of ‘71, a packet of energy moved across the Pacific. Its

final terminus; a trifling, shallow lump of reef called Honl’s, located in the quiet town of Kailua Kona. This would have normally led to nothing more than it had for a thousand years previous, but it just so happened that this unfolding scenario was witnessed by a surfer genius with vision, Tom Morey. It was by all accounts for surfers of the day too shallow to surf on a conventional board. Out of this drive to surf, out of this acute need, form followed function. Tom pulled out a kitchen knife, a local newspaper, his wife’s iron and carved out a slab of soft packaging foam.

Tom had created a way to access this fine summer swell and in so doing the Boogie was born and generations of wave riders would be changed forever.

Years passed and the bodyboard evolved alongside with the progression of the athletes who ride it. The essence of that once shallow lump of reef so seemingly unattainable has become the choice, even coveted medium of expression in similar waves the world over. That quiet town of Kailua Kona became an incubator for generations of practitioners of Tom’s craft. Bringing us to the topic of an up and coming rider named Keahi Parker.

Keahi is young, driven, and has the wits to live out his dreams as an ambassador of Hawaiian bodyboarding. His aspirations, as deep as the packet of energy that brought about the invention of the modern bodyboard. He is driven to surf particularly technical types of waves in a particularly technical style. He embodies the new generation of Hawaiian chargers, equally matching brains with brawn, force with finesse.

Surge: Being from Kailua-Kona (the birthplace of the bodyboard), when did you start bodyboarding?

Keahi: I’ve been on a bodyboard since three years of age, got really into it when I was twelve, and went competitive at seventeen Surge: Who have been the biggest influences in your life? In and out of the water?

Keahi: In the water: Mike Stewart, Jeff Hubbard, Spencer Skipper, Dave Hubbard, Jacob and Jonah Romero, Kainoa Behasa, all the Big Island bodyboarders, FDB, and every Hawaiian and international bodyboarder/ wave rider that helps to innovate and push the sport. Out of the water: My parents, sister, and close family, swim coaches Steve Borowski and Mark Noetzel, Mike Stewart again somehow, and all of the other athletes I have come to know along the way.

Surge: When and why did you make the move to O’ahu?

Keahi: I first moved to O’ahu in 2008 after high school. I attended University of Hawaii at Manoa to study Marketing and pursue bodyboarding.

I then took a leave of absence from school last year to commit to gaining points on the new IBA World Tour and push my bodyboarding further.

Surge: So this is your first year doing some of the IBA World Tour events, and you competed in The Box competition. Any thoughts on your performance down there and what you saw?

KEAHI PARKER | PH; COLIN MCGILLIVARY FACEBOOK.COM/COLINMCGILLIVARY

Keahi: The Box contest was unreal. West Oz has it all: Heavy slabs, big waves, punchy small waves, and crazy wedges. I was the only international rider to make it through trials and on to the main event with thirtyone of the world’s best. I missed my first heat in the main event due to a mix up on the alternate venue and the call if it was on or off. I couldn’t regain many points in my other two heats and placed rather low. I need redemption! Guys were going off during the contest. Magno Oliviera is insane; combo-ing past world champions and had the biggest boost ever out at The Box. Surge: What are you plans for the upcoming events? Any new strategies or things you’ll be focusing on?

Keahi: I just competed in the IBA Zicatela Pro and will be attending the USBA New Jersey contest in the next month or so. I plan on not missing a heat or getting sick right before an event like at The Box and Huntington comps. I definitely had to train a fair bit of cardio before Mexico.

Summer time waves at home don’t really prepare you to compete in the world’s best/heaviest beach breaks.

Surge: Why did you decide to take a break from the university this past year?

Keahi: It was very difficult for me to leave school with half of my courses done at the time. I made the decision after talking to Jeff Hubbard about what he did in the same situation. I eventually came to realize that I have ten years until my credits at UH Manoa expire. I wanted to pursue my dream on the tour with the new support and opportunity Mike Stewart gave me.

Surge: While the IBA World Tour does offer some great waves, what’s the one wave you’re hoping to surf the most over the next few years?

Keahi: Teahupo’o, for sure. I have not made it down to Tahiti yet and really want to go next summer or even this fall. Hearing of other epic waves in the surrounding islands along with Chopes, Tahiti would have to be it for me.

Surge: Where do you want to be five years from now?

Keahi: I want to be representing Hawaii in the top 24 of the IBA World Tour and also be working on other projects such as films, a clothing line, and something epic with Mike.

Surge: What moves have you been working out lately? Any new moves?

Keahi: After being in Australia for six weeks and seeing some riders that are so obsessed with “style” or technique, I have just been working on my overall technique with flips and spins. After seeing Jonah Romero do an “Angry Dragon” (half reverse roll to backflip) I have been trying those, reverse rolls, double reverse rolls, inverses, 720’s. I have been working on moves that other guys have done or tried and making it a bit different. It is always fun to mess around in the air and test your limits.

KEAHI PARKER | PH: ANDREW RAMS FACEBOOK.COM/ANDREWRAMSPHOTOGRAPHY

Surge: What’s the most challenging aspect of any contest for you?

Keahi: I would have to say favoritism and politics. I know judging is very difficult but I have seen and had a few incidents in contests that just don’t quite add up. Other riders and myself want to see more professionalism since it’s our careers on the line.

Surge: What has been your heaviest bodyboarding experience?

Keahi: Probably paddling out with Mike Stewart to an outer reef with 12-15 foot barreling waves (Hawaiian scale) rolling in, half of which were close outs. It was amazing to be out there with Mike in his element.

After almost being caught inside by a bigger set, 15+ (30 foot face), Mike let out a howl I will never forget. It was a mix of pure stoke, raw energy, respect for the ocean, and just a hint of fear. I ended up pulling into a 12+ foot barrel, losing my board, and swimming half a mile into shore. Mike also lost his board but got a ride in somehow by one of the skis that were towing. Can’t wait for winter!

Surge: How would you define your riding style?

Keahi: I have no idea. I wouldn’t say my riding is anywhere near where I want it to be. I just want to work on technique and be able to be fluid, smooth, and explosive in all types of wave conditions.

Surge: How do you prepare daily to improve your bodyboarding?

Keahi: I stretch every morning and evening for at least thirty minutes each and try to bodyboard as much as possible no matter the size or conditions. My cross training varies anything from swimming, running, hiking, yoga, core routine, Mike Stewart’s insane ninja-like training, and the occasional weight room workout.

Surge: Many riders throughout the state of Hawai’i are part of the “underground.” Which riders come to mind that you know push the sport of bodyboarding daily?

Keahi: There are so many riders across the state that are amazing at bodyboarding that don’t compete that much or at all. People hear about them or don’t know their names. I know a few on the Big Island and Oahu but not too many elsewhere. Some names that come to mind: Nakana Riviera and Herman Ano charge North Shore hard and you barely hear of them. Kainoa Behasa, Colby Alcos, Nick Shand, Willy Petrovick, Chad Villarin, Tyson Kaua, Vaj Lederer, O’a Hind, Curtis Tavares, Ricky Alvarez, and so many guys on Big Island are pretty underground but dominate our waves.

Surge: How does bodyboarding effect your social life?

Keahi: Being a dedicated athlete always has drawbacks from socializing, but with bodyboarding you get to travel and meet people from all around the world. Being focused and responsible are qualities that some people don’t have. Sacrificing late night clubbing, drinking, unhealthy food, sugar, being lazy, white rice, and time in the day that could be spent with a beautiful girl instead of with fifty agro wave-riders jockeying each other out at Pipe. Warning! This lifestyle is not for everyone.

Surge: Which companies are you sponsored by?

Keahi: Science Bodyboards, Gyroll Leashes, MS Viper Fins, Zinka Suncare, Filtrate Eyewear, and Basik Aca’i and Health Bar. I need clothes somehow.

Surge: Where do you see the future of bodyboarding?

Keahi: I see it progressing into having insane contests at the world’s heaviest waves. Heaving slabs and huge airs. I think it is one of the ways we can further differentiate ourselves from other wave riding sports competition and gain more support for the industry.

Surge: Any last words?

KEAHI PARKER | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY

Keahi: Mahalo to my family, friends, and anyone who has helped and supported me with my dream. Aloha!

“DA HAMMAH” MICAH MCMULLING SHOWING ALOHA | PH: EVAN FA

BAILED BOARD | PH: NEAL MIYAKE HISURFADVISORY.COM

MARK WATTS | PH: SACHA SPECKER THESPEX.COM

Surge: You definitely spent a lot of time in Hawaii last season. What is it about Hawaii that keeps you coming back?

Mark: Hawaii has always been the Mecca for any water sport. Ever since I was a kid I dreamed about going to Hawaii and surfing Pipeline. Watching the early No Friends videos only made this dream bigger and bigger. I think it’s the whole Hawaiian lifestyle that keeps me coming back. The Liquorish Family has been amazing to me and made me feel welcome and part of the family every season. Spending Christmas with the whole family and enjoying family birthdays have all added to my experiences every year. Being able to just cruise around on a bicycle looking for the best spot to surf for the day; waking up and riding to Pipe in the dark to try and get a few waves in before the masses arrive is always fun.

Surge: How was this season for you? It seems like you made quite a dent during your stay.

Mark: I arrived just before Christmas and it had been raining a fair bit. The swells had been more north, so Pipe hadn’t really had much. A few of the Saffa boys were there already, i.e. Spex, Ryan ‘Cracker’ Janssen, Iain Campbell and Ryan Cutler. It was sick to see all the boys again ‘cause I had been away from home for awhile. Swells started backing up and the month of January had plenty of action with good back to back swells and the crowds weren’t too bad. I guess after spending a few months in Hawaii every year guys start recognizing your face and they get to see you’re not that much of a kook. Making friends, being silently polite and respectful to the locals and not getting in their way seems to get you a few more waves out there. I really

wanted to surf and surf lots this year. Getting familiar with the lineup and knowing where to sit out there is a huge advantage.

Knowing which way to paddle when the sets come is also a pretty intimidating part of being out there and getting cleaned up by a set is always a factor. Haha! Getting the chance to surf big Waimea was pretty wild. I’ve always seen video footage of guys surfing it and always wanted to give it a go. I was lucky enough to surf it big a few days this year and it was sick to see the Saffas and the Hawaiian boys representing some of the old school guys who had done it before us.

Surge: Standouts of the season?

Mark: B-Wise (Brian Wise) riding without a leash. Hubb (Jeff Hubbard) and Dubb (David Hubbard) are freaks that always impress. Ben Player seems to be so comfortable and confident at Pipe and Backdoor. Jared Houston loves to launch.

Rigby surfed well all season and went really well in the Pipe contest so congrats to him. South African’s Iain Campbell in his maiden year in Hawaii was surfing very strong. Nakana always gets massive ones at Pipe. Rams … he’s the man and always gets the shot!

Surge: You and Sacha definitely linked up a lot at Keiki this season. Tell us about your relationship with the spot.

Mark: Keiki is just the best place. The most fun you can ever have with your mates. Surfing Pipe can be very frustrating at times if you’re not getting waves, so it’s good to be able to ride your bicycle over to Keiki and just get smashed up the beach in the shorebreak for awhile.

Surge: Any last shout words?

Mark: I’d just like to say thanks to everyone who made this last season so much fun. My family back home in South Africa that has always been amazingly supportive of me. The Liquorish Family for all their love and support. All the South African boys. Rossi Bodyboards, Star Crossed Tattoos, Emerald Surf City. To the Hawaiians, I’m looking forward to seeing you all in the 808 soon.

MARK WATTS | PH: SACHA SPECKER THESPEX.COM

PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY

Love and hate—there is such a thin line between these two combative emotions. It even seems difficult to passionately love something without feeling some sort of hate for it.

At least that is how it works with the North Shore of Oahu. Furthermore, it is about as easy to love the North Shore as it is to hate it.

Love it because it is a surfing miracle from the palm trees, warm water, sandy beaches, to world-class surf. Hate it because it is utter muddle with angry locals, crowds beyond crowded, crack heads, and tourist traffic nightmares. Truly the North Shore is one of a kind.

Like any other bodyboard media outlet, Surge’s lens and written pen documented

PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY

this past season’s raw action and hoopla.

As always, dreams were made while others shattered. Of course, that is how life works on the North Shore. It naturally balances itself out.

This North Shore piece is composed of various riders’ perspectives of the North Shore, seasons both past and present. Two rider profiles, namely two young standouts named Mark Watts and Keahi Parker, are included as well. There are even a handful of reviews of food stops one doesn’t typically go to eat while staying on this seven mile stretch. Either way, love or hate the North Shore, soak up the words and photographs accompanying them.

PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY

I grew up on the northeast side of the Big Island, ten miles north of Hilo also known as the Hamakua coast. The majority of the waves I would surf near my parents’ house broke along cliff faces and boulder shorelines. Most of the spots on the Hamakua side are created by rivers. The rivers push out stones and small boulders that create shallow rock bars which allow waves to break. Since the island is so young geologically, there hasn’t really been enough time for good set ups to form, so most of the waves are really short, basically breaking just in front of dry rocks. Most of these places wouldn’t even be considered surf spots to people living anywhere else.

The only similarity between where I grew up and the North Shore is that they are both in the Pacific Ocean. Sometimes I find that hard to believe. My first season on the North Shore was 94/95, since then my life has never been the same.

This last winter season is basically what I wish all winter seasons could be like. It was probably one of the best seasons for Pipeline I’ve ever seen, top 5 for sure. It finished as hard and heavy as it started. We had solid 10’+ Pipe in April! That is something that rarely ever happens. The crowds were still as nutty as ever during the peak months this season. I try to avoid the place at all costs, unless the waves are A++. The cool thing about this season was that we got lots of good swells before and after the peak months, so there were some uncrowded days that really went off. I got to see some of the local bodyboarders really shine. Nakana Rivera and Keahi Parker were getting some sick waves on these late season swells.

The North Shore is the most beautifully powerful and most nauseatingly annoying place on the planet. I love it because there is no other feeling on earth like getting blown out of a massive pit at Pipeline; there’s no other wave that I’d rather be surfing. Yet sometimes I find myself hating it, wishing it never existed because of what it creates—human greed at its finest. I wish less people loved the place as much as I do, but like I said, human greed at it’s finest. I totally understand why Gerry Lopez no longer lives there.

-Spencer Skipper

HAPPY ZUROWSKI | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY

The holy waters of the North Shore have always been running through my veins. Since the baby steps of my grom years until today, I’ve always admired and respected my elders. Everything is so powerful that I’m still having my share of waves on the head. The advantage of growing up in Hale’iwa is that the locals take care of one another like an extended family. We all know who’s who, their capabilities, differences, but mostly the similar love and passion for the ocean. We all keep a good eye on each other especially at Pipeline, because you never want to step on someone else’s toes, board, or wave in that case.

Sugar plantations have shutdown, movies being filmed, vacation homes multiplying by the dozen … yep, the North Shore has changed a lot. I can see the upgrades economically from the tourism industry, and I’ve also seen the originality deteriorate to an effect. HALE’IWAWOOD is congested with an influenced standard of “modern” lifestyles. We need to remain optimistic, humble, and enjoy the peace of nature’s gift without getting drawn to the progress of this world. Remember to pulama (cherish) and malama ka’aina (take care of the land).

I’ll sum it up the surf on the North Shore in a few short words— There’s rights, there’s lefts, and then there’s Pipeline!

Dream of it during the day and cast nightmares through the night. Pipeline is the most spectacular wave known worldwide. When a perfect 8-12 foot WNW swell hits the reef, the entire planet stops and nothing else matters. I’ve finally matured and understand the rules out there. Being mentally focused and physically fit can determine your performance on any given day. Blessed that home is only ten minutes away.

Pipeline means a lot to me and many other wave riders alike.

I give all my respect and love to the ocean and people around my surroundings.

God bless!

-Happy Zurowski

I was born in France and arrived in Reunion Island when I was young.

Reunion is so similar to Hawaii. First, it’s a similar type of climate with a similar background. Second, the vibes are pretty much the same… everybody is having fun in the sea with friendly vibes. In Reunion, I lived near the beach where so many guys were having fun on a board, so I just wanted be a part of it. The bodyboarding history goes way back.

Guys have been riding since the early 80’s, and I had so much inspiration from all these riders.

My first season on the North Shore was in 2004. It was such a dream that I realized. Since then I never missed a season and hopefully I will still be there for the next few years.

This season was the first year when I was a bit over the crowd.

The early part of the season through the first week of February was really good, but then the surf was not the best though still powerful and fun.

The level of talented riders was pretty amazing this season, and I realize that I still have so much work to do to stay at the top.

Every time I see Kainoa in the water, no matter what he is riding, he still is a heavy local and fully represents the Hawaiian spirit. It’s pretty funny to see how some local surfers just don’t care for bodyboarding, but when they see Hubb in the air or Mike deep in the pit they just shut up and respect. I love this!

-Amaury Lavernhe AMAURY LAVERNHE | PH: MICHAEL J

WESLEY L | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY

I am from Sopelana in the Basque country of Northern Spain. Bodyboarding is well recognized here and we have had IBA World Tour stops. We have local standouts like David Perez and Aritz Larrinaga.

We have waves like Mundaka and La Central. The winter is cold but the surf is powerful.

The North Shore is marvelous. There are plenty of peaks and spots in such a small space, giving you the option to ride a bicycle to any of them. Furthermore, the weather is paradise. When the surf is good here in Spain during the winter, it is really cold. You have to drive to every spot and the Euro is up in value. As for the North Shore, for good or bad, you run into all of the world’s best bodyboarders.

I believe my first year in Hawaii was in 2001. It was a bit crazy. The waves impressed me a lot. The language isolated me a bit, though, so it was kind of tough.

This winter was one of my best seasons of all time. The waves weren’t that exceptional but they were consistent. A whole bunch of different spots were breaking and I even got some at Pipe. Socializing definitely had to be the best because all of us girls were together, barbequing, having dinner, surfing, and shopping.

-Eunate Aguirre

EUNATE AGUIRRE | PH: ANDREW RAMS FACEBOOK.COM/ANDREWRAMSPHOTOGRAPHY

MARK WATTS | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY

My name is Sacha Specker, born in Cape Town, South Africa and still call it my home. I grew up on the beach and have been riding a boogie board since I was twelve years old. My first trip to the North Shore was in the winter of 2001/2012 and have only missed three seasons since. South Africa and Hawaii are pretty much on opposite sides of the planet, and the South African Rand is not an easy currency to travel with, thus I prefer spending a good few months on the North Shore, usually three to four at a time. Combined, I have spent almost two years of my life in Hawaii.

Although Cape Town and the North Shore are very different in that the water temp is about 12-15°C, South Africa is uncrowded and you always need to drive if you want to get waves. The North Shore, on the other hand, has comparably tropical water, is overbearingly crowded and you can get by without a car. A very noticeable similarity though is the consistency of waves. When it’s on, it’s pumping! Both places produce waves that will push any waterman to their limits.

As much as I miss home when I’m in Hawaii, I love coming to this crowded stretch of coastline. Every day you can lap up the Aloha, waves and good company it harbors. Along with all the tension and aggression this confined space and good waves, Hawaii also comes with good friendships forged on shared memories and waves. I love the North Shore.

This past winter was not particularly amazing regarding waves.

Although it had its moments and there were plenty good days, you always use a specific benchmark season that was all time. For me it was January 2010. Never have I had as many pumping days at Pipe, Backdoor, OTW or the sandbars in one month. On numerous occasion, Jerry (Jared Houston) Wattsy (Mark Watts) and myself scored pumping 8 foot Pipe at 8:30AM with no more than twenty guys out. This will be a season not soon forgotten.

Spending months on end in Hawaii gives you more time to enjoy the place instead of feeling pressed to surf every dying moment in fear of missing waves. You also get to see many guys come and go and get to meet the crew that live there and call it home. For me, the stand outs will always be the guys up top. Ben Player, Skipp, Stewart. I also can’t help but take note of the guys who are coming up and working hard at it, like Jared Houston, Keahi Parker, Bula, and so many young Hawaiians. Calling Hawaii your home must be the most rewarding feeling if riding waves and an affinity for the ocean is what beats your heart.

-Sacha Specker EUNATE | PH: ANDREW RAMS FACEBOOK.COM/ANDREWRAMSPHOTOGRAPHY

DAVID PHILLIPS | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY

MIKE STEWART | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY

I am from a place called Avalon in the northern suburbs of Sydney. It’s a pretty mellow little place with a few fun waves around. I started bodyboarding when I was ten years old. My stepdad showed me how to catch waves and I got a Mach 7-7 for Christmas. From that moment I was hooked. I used to kiss my board and everything; I loved it so much. Then one day shortly after Christmas my board got eaten by my dog. It was left with one corner chomped clean off and I cried my little heart dry; but it didn’t matter, I still loved it all the same but it never did feel as if it performed as well after that.

It’s very different on the North Shore than in Australia. Most of our reef breaks are short ledgy waves with small and defined take off areas. Maybe that’s the appeal of surfing Pipeline for me as there’s a lot of room to move around out there and get away from the crowds enough to feel like it’s you against the wild cat, not you and everyone else against the wild cat.

I always aspired to surf on the North Shore. I viewed it as the Mecca for surfing and felt that if you were on top there you were the best in the world. So I guess I trained BEN PLAYER | PH: ANDREW RAMS FACEBOOK.COM/ANDREWRAMSPHOTOGRAPHY

pretty hard there and now feel as though I have a pretty good relationship with it and its people. I still view the waves there like a wild cat—you can love it but you always got to treat it with respect or it will eat yah.

This was a great winter. I stepped off the plane and surfed 4-8ft waves everyday for three weeks. I think this was kind of my un-doing for the comp, though, as I was kind of surfed out for the event and my expectations were too high for myself and for the conditions.

The best story from the North Shore I can tell is the story of one day in early 2005 when my whole life changed in Hawaii. In one day my good mate and long time rival won the world title, and he was the first one of our generation to do so.

I was really happy for him but, at the same time, I was pretty envious of him. Later that night we put on a party and one of my mates was tragically hit by a car and killed instantly. I think Hawaii is pretty polar like that—one minute you’re living on cloud 9, the next you’re up in the clouds. I suppose it’s like that when you’re living with a wild cat; its mood and temper will change your life forever. That day defined who I grew to be and as a result I won two world titles.

-Ben Player

JOSH GARNER | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY

UNK | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY

MARK MCCARTHY| PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY

Kahuku Grill Known for: Twice as much burger & coconut macadamia nut shrimp Location: Kahuku Sugar Mill Owner: Hanneman family

By Seth Hanneman

shrimp territory with the famous shrimp trucks.

Story We came to own the Kahuku Grill in October 2009. My dad always wanted to own and operate a family restaurant where he and his seven boys could cook and work together. Growing up in Southern California our dad used to take us to this pizza parlor he was interested in buying in a town called Camarillo. Since he was commuting and working in Los Angeles, things just didn’t quite pan out.

As years passed we moved back to Oahu in 2003. In 2007, I dragged my family into doing security sales, ironic enough. In 2009, my father was doing accounts with the Kahuku shrimp trucks. He worked his way down from Fumi’s to the Kahuku sugar mill. He noticed the small little restaurant called Kahuku Grill and offered to sell the owners a security system. The Koreans who owned it at the time weren’t interested in a security system but offered to sell the restaurant to my father. It brought back memories from way back. We actually thought it would be a bad idea with the recession, but my parents talked about it and bought it.

Food We pride ourselves in a home barbeque taste and freshness of our ingredients. Where food isn’t over priced but in bigger Polynesian portions. We don’t freeze anything. More fresh, more food.

For example, our twice burger is like a double double on steroids (not literally). Two patties, two slices of cheese, two pieces of tomato and lettuce, two times the amount of grilled onions with our steak fries with our fries sauce.

Name The name comes from the previous owners.

Unique menu Our dad has given us free reign to be creative with new items on the menu. As you cook you start to realize some unique options that taste good. For example, one of our greatest creations is the coconut macadamia nut shrimp.

We decided to combine the crunch of the macadamia nut and sweetness of shredded coconut with the famous Kahuku Shrimp. The hardest part about making shrimp is finding fresh shrimp and the fact we are in Kahuku

Hours Monday through Saturday, 11AM to 9PM.

KAHUKU GRILL | PH: EVAN FA | EVANFA.BLOGSPOT.COM

Impossibles Pizza - North Shore Style Pizza Known for: Barbeque chicken pizza & thai chicken pizza Location: Pizza truck from Sunset Beach to Shark’s Cove Owner: Micah Dilcher

By Micah Dilcher Story Basically, I’ve lived here on the North Shore my whole life and there has always been a pizza spot. I love being in this zone from Waimea to Sunset. I try not to leave.

I came back came back from the mainland after going to school and working and realized there was need for a pizza place again. I’d worked in a couple restaurants. I was into food. I like cooking a lot. I like to make garlic bread, pizza, salads, and stuff, so I just came up with the recipes.

Name Impossibles is a surf spot in between three tables and Waimea Bay. I grew up on it. I’ve only surfed a few times on nonsense days. It’s a right that reels right into the Waimea Bay line up. It’s called Impossibles because it’s impossible to surf. I grew up looking at it so I named the pizza truck after that.

Pizza Truck My dad helped me get the bus. It’s an airport shuttle. We went to the airport to grab it and stripped out the seats.

We put in the kitchen equipment. We tried to get a commercial spot but there weren’t any available on this side.

I’m not ready for Haleiwa quite yet because I like the beach and this whole kind of thing and the scene down here.

We basically just move around like an ice cream truck from spot to spot from Sunset Beach to Shark’s Cove.

People call us up and pick up their pizza.

Hours Manny and me hold it down.

Our hours are from 3PM til 9PM. Cheese and pepperoni slices until 6PM. North Shore only.

Food We make everything from scratch. We try to use all local produce and support everyone on the island. We use all kinds of crazy ingredients from goat cheese to kalua pig. We try to come up with a new pizza every once and a while to keep it fresh.

Try our barbeque chicken pizza, Thai chicken pizza, and our new antipasto salad.

IMPOSSIBLES PIZZA | PH: EVAN FA | EVANFA.BLOGSPOT.COM

Hukilau Café Known for: Hukilau Burger, Loco Moco, & pulled pork Location: Laie Owner: Kalani Soren

By Kalani Soren Sam Choy to Hukilau Café I got a call from Sam Choy because this was the location of his first restaurant ever—Sam’s Place. He was born in the house right behind Hukilau Café. He was the executive chef at the Turtle Bay Hilton in ’89. He was relocated to the Kona Hilton. So he relocated his whole family up there and opened up two restaurants as executive chef for the Kona Hilton.

From there he leased this place out to some Korean people. They went through two to three people, leasing the place until the point where the last people took the place to the ground. (Sam used to have a line out this door like you’d never believe when he opened in ’81.) Come to find out the last people owed Sam money. He called me up to come here and help the Koreans get the place back to what it was. I told Sam to get rid of them and have me help him get Sam’s Place back to what it used to. That was more a turn on to me. He told me he would pay me more than whatever I was making at the restaurant where I was working at the time. Just come and help this guy.

So I thought about it, told him, yeah. Gave the restaurant where I was working two weeks notice, trained one guy to take over there, left, showed up.

The day I showed up the Korean guy skipped town back to Korea and left everything. I had my first kid on the way. Called up Sam. I asked him what’s going on?

He said, “What you mean what’s going on?” I told him I showed up and the guy left back to Korea. He said, “I knew it.” Oh yeah, what about him? What about me brah?

I left my job to come over here and now what? He told me he would call me back. All day phone tag. In the evening I call him up. So what? He says, “let me make a few calls.” I told him, you know what? You don’t tell me by

tomorrow, I’m going back to the other restaurant to get my job back. He told me to just do what I got to do and we’ll talk about it later.

At the end of the first year, I did pretty good so I told him I wanted to just buy the place from him. My dad helped me out and encouraged me to buy it. Sam sold it to me. I changed the name to Hukilau Café. Seventeen years later I’m still here.

The first year was under Sam’s Place and then after that I changed the name.

Hours Tuesday through Saturday, 7AM to 3PM. Food I just have a product that I grew up with, which is local food. I came from a family with two girls and three boys. I’m the youngest and the next closest one is ten years older. So in a sense I was an only child. I cooked for myself, burned a few pans. Everyone did imu (earth oven) and the Hukilau for fish. So you know, growing up it was something I enjoyed doing.

HUKILAU CAFE| PH: EVAN FA | EVANFA.BLOGSPOT.COM

Kahuku Superette Known for: Ahi and Tako poke Location: Kahuku (directly across from the high school) Story: While the Kahuku Superette is a raggedy looking mini market offering anything from Gatorade, Ted’s Bakery sandwiches, alcoholic drinks, to spiral notebooks, it is one of the most legendary stops on Oahu for fresh ahi (tuna) and tako (squid) poke.

Name It’s in Kahuku. It’s a smaller version of a supermarket, hence the “Superette” in its name.

Get that poke As you walk in to the Kahuku Superette through the two way doors, head to the back of the market where you will find waist high open fridges. Within them lies a variety of chilled poke (limu and shoyu poke, lomi lomi salmon, tako poke, etc) and meats. After you have decided on the item you want, grab the tray and put it on the counter and indicate to one of the Filipino ladies how much you want and whether you would like rice to accompany it.

Menu Nothing has really changed about the Kahuku Superette.

The menu is the same and probably will be forever.

Hours If you’re awake, they are most likely open.

KAHUKU SUPERETTE | PH: EVAN FA | EVANFA.BLOGSPOT.COM

Fiji Market & Curry House South Pacific Islands Groceries & Curry Shop Known for: Lamb Curry, roti, & New Zealand meat pies Location: Old Kahuku Sugar Mill Owner: Singh family

By Nitin Singh Story We are originally from Fiji, where we always had grocery businesses. I went to BYU-Hawaii, then Church College, in La’ie and graduated with a degree in business. We went back to Fiji where I worked for Johnson & Johnson as the GM. After we finished our time in Fiji with Johnson & Johnson we came back here and noticed there was a big gaping hole for the Polynesian people. They had no where to go for Polynesian food, their own food from the islands.

Because I went to Liahona High School in Tonga, a lot of Tongan friends have settled here. At one point I visited here, a bunch of Tongan guys approached us that we need something here that exclusively caters to the Polynesian population. So we set up a business. Today there is no specific store throughout the islands that carries the range of products that we carry.

Name The reason why we named it the Fiji Market is because we come from there and also because with the islands of Fiji comes a lot of appeal. People love Fiji, they love Polynesia.

Curry Shop As we started importing grocery supplies from Fiji, New Zealand, etc, there was then a demand for cooked food.

That’s where my kids came in and they helped out and set up the kitchen. My wife Sheila cooks everything in the kitchen.

Hours Monday through Saturday, 11AM to 9PM Food Our most popular dish is the lamb curry. People drive from all over the island just to get it. We also make some of the best naan, or roti, which is Indian flat bread.

Also, we are the exclusive importer of New Zealand meat pies.

FIJI MARKET | PH: EVAN FA | EVANFA.BLOGSPOT.COM

JEFF HUBBARD | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON | FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY

DAVID HUBBARD PROFILE SHOT| PH: ALEX VERHARST | VERHARSTPHOTOGRAPHY.BLOGSPOT.COM

F

rom day one Dubb was known to liken everything to himself and make it his own. From his static looking pirate beard to his dolphin like style of boogie-ing, doing common things uncommonly well is his style. There is no hiding the fact that Dubb is eccentric, but you’ll be amazed at how well balanced his life actually is. So welcome to the world of Dave Hubbard, where you think you know him but have no idea.

Dubb finds joy in the small and simple things of life. You won’t find him at Macy’s, but you’ll find him shopping at Ho’omana thrift shop scoring on the old sku vintage aloha shirts. He wears spray painted BN9 shirts, goes to gatherings with plenty kau kau (food) and will just wala’au (talking story with family and friends) away. Discovering the unusual is typical to Dave as well. One of the more rare collector’s items he has stashed in his collection is a cereal box with a cartoon drawing of a rhino boogie-ing and doing a cut back wearing an ankle leash that’s not even connected to the board.

Dubb is also a man of inspiration and vision. In his own humble and “mysto” way he is always striving to find ways to improve himself both physically and spiritually.

From implementing a “master cleanse” to reading CS Lewis’ Mere Christianity, Dubb is always trying to find ways to reach his full potential. As I was on a church mission in

Australia, Dubb emailed me about how he broke his ankle in a boogie competition. He went on about how he still DK’d and did cut backs on waves even though his ankle was still store: “I’m one-finning it, but pretty soon I’ll get a pair of Kicks and run dualies! Hahaha! Little funny but still motivated to get back into the water!”

Little did he know he taught me a great lesson—that success isn’t found in your comfort zone; that if you can’t find an opportunity you simply have to create one.

This is what this DK king is all about, achieving one thing and moving to another.

Well, what more can I say but to sit back, relax and take in the experience and insights of the man himself, David Hubbard.

Kawika: First of all, what’s going on with the Captain Barbosa beard?

Dubb: It’s been growing for two years now. I got bored with shaving. Some people like it and give me compliments and get inspired to grow their own facial hair and save a lot of money on shaving … and please people.

Kawika: Haha! So being from Kauai, was it the surf back at home that made you decide to ride a bodyboard or was it the people you grew up with?

Dubb: More the people I grew up and hung out with … and following my brothers. One did surfing (Michael) and the other did bodyboarding (Jeff). I got to try them both and I just preferred bodyboarding and went that route.

Kawika: What do you have to say to people you run into that don’t really understand the sport of bodyboarding? Or believe it’s inferior to surfing?

Dubb: Well, they are obviously not at a level of comprehension of wave riding, in general, or the ocean. Maybe they just haven’t seen the right bodyboarders, or maybe they are just completely brainwashed and never going to bow their head and admit that was pretty sick. You know, if you have an inkling of how things are done in the water, and you see someone doing it, you’re going to have to acknowledge there is some crazy stuff going on, not just on a bodyboard. If they see the right thing, maybe they will change their minds even if they don’t mention it.

Kawika: It’s kind of strange seeing the whole culture of extreme sports ignoring bodyboarding. Do you feel that extreme sports are more relative to bodyboarding?

Dubb: I think bodyboarding is an extreme sport, for sure. I’m a pretty big fan of most extreme sports. I think we fit in their nicely, but what I think is unique about our extreme sport is the accessibility at the most basic level. The basic enjoyment for the novice to do it relatively safe their first time, enjoy the ocean and ride some waves.

It’s not like skydiving. You can’t just jump out of a plane on your first time. You can’t just dip your toes into skydiving, where you’re either doing it or not. In bodyboarding you can really tip toe into it.

LIFT OFF DAVE HUBBARD | PH: ANDREW RAMS FACEBOOK.COM/ANDREWRAMSPHOTOGRAPHY

DUBB SET UP | PH: MAURICE AUBUCHON FACEBOOK.COM/AUBUCHONIMAGERY

Kawika: Kind of personal question. Have you ever felt like you were in the shadows of your older brother, Jeff, or had to make an extra effort to prove yourself?

Dubb: No, not really. But it just naturally went that way with dropknee … keeping me out of the light of Jeff. I think I was able to find an outlet of expression that was pretty different than him. So now when we are doing the same thing, whether prone or dropknee, there is something else setting us apart than just being the younger version of him.

Kawika: Have you ever felt any rivalry between each other?

Dubb: Not really. There is about six and a half years between us, so he was too old to compete with for quite some time. I had to get older before I was at any level to compete with him, so I never really felt any rivalry.

He was always encouraging me. Eventually, we have developed a healthy rivalry as we were both getting really good, surfing a lot, pushing each other. Occasionally, we have a heat together.

Kawika: Do you both pull out some Kauai Classic tactics against other competitors when you end up in heats together?

Dubb: No, we usually do our own thing. He’ll cooperate with me if it’s possible.

Kawika: Since we’re on the topic of the Kauai Classic, how has it contributed to your success as a professional bodyboarder?

Dubb: Being in a place where the Kauai Classic were practicing and paving the way professionally, showing the community that it was possible was a big inspiration. Working with the same coach was super helpful. That helped facilitate that this lifestyle could be achieved and accepted so that it was easier to convince my parents that it was legit.

Kawika: So were your parents always supportive of you becoming a professional bodyboarder?

Dubb: My older brother, Michael, was a shortboarder, got sponsored and did contests before us.

So they had a pretty good idea that it was something good for their children. They were really supportive. Bought us boards, took us to contests, and funded us to compete, not only in the state but

we would go to nationals every year. They were a huge help.

Kawika: What’s your definition of a professional?

Dubb: There’s a saying: “Ten years of doing it or ten thousand hours of practicing it makes you a professional.” Receiving money would also make you a professional, whether that’s through prize money or endorsements. But for some people it’s different. Some people think that if they are sponsored and are receiving free stuff, riding on an elite level, that would make them a pro. Sometimes it’s a mindset. Like, “I’m out here to get photos.” It’s just your take on it.

Kawika: For those who don’t know, what’s life like for a professional bodyboarder?

Dubb: It’s definitely not for everyone. You know, it’s kind of challenging sometimes, but it’s an incredible opportunity and way to see the world.

Always uniting with all the other bodyboarding brethren. And, yeah, killer way to see other cultures and get acquainted with other people. It’s a lot of work. A mission to get to all the spots. Add that in with trying to compete, so it can be stressful.

Kawika: Where do you feel most excited to go each year, whether it’s a stop on the tour or free surf?

Dubb: I’m always excited to get down to Tahiti whenever I can, but seeing new places like last year I got to go to Reunion for the first time. I’ll be really excited to return there this year as well.

Puerto is always fun to return to. Chile is a pretty special place, too. It’s a really high performance testing ground. The free surfs are really intense and the competition is really top notch. So that’s always a pinnacle time of the year.

Kawika: Do you see professional bodyboarding as a feasible option for those aspiring to it in today’s U.S. market?

Dubb: It’s pretty difficult and not entirely feasible to be a professional bodyboarder currently in the United States. For the majority of anyone that is getting paid, you’ll probably need another occupation in general. There are probably only a handful of guys that can just get paid and live the dream. Unfortunately, it’s not quite as feasible as it once was. Hopefully, there will be plenty of room for growth and opportunity for the future genera-

REVO AIR DUBB | PH: ANDREW RAMS FACEBOOK.COM/ANDREWRAMSPHOTOGRAPHY

DUBB @ WAIMEA | PH: WADE SAUNDERS

tion of bodyboarders globally because the sport is growing globally and getting quite a bit more media attention.

Kawika: What do you think needs to happen?

Dubb: What needs to happen is that a. Some large company starts paying attention to bodyboarding, reaches its arm over the surfing industry and starts advertising bodyboarding or b. A brand that sells to the surf market wants to incorporate bodyboarding into their team, so to speak. There is wiggle room in the industry. So what’s going to happen this year is that there is going to be a lot more media attention because of Red Bull TV and webcasting of the IBA. Once that catches on we will hopefully see the growth that needs to happen.

Kawika: As four-time IBA Dropknee World Champion, have you considered focusing your efforts on winning a prone title?

Dubb: I’m really excited about this year of the prone world tour. Eventually, when I get really serious about nailing a prone world title, I’ll likely only compete solely in dropknee divisions that are feasible, ones that coincide with the prone events.

I’m not going to make any special trips for the IBA dropknee events. I think I’ve accomplished what I need to in dropknee, so I don’t want that to inhibit me from my prone aspirations.

Kawika: Yeah, over the past few years you’ve definitely established yourself as one of the biggest prone threats in the sport. What instilled that desire to really make the transition from dropknee to prone bodyboarding?

Dubb: I was always proning. I was competitive in my teens. That is something that I’ve been into.

It just took a lot of attention to dropknee well, so that’s why for several years I was much more focused on dropknee riding. Eventually, I adapted my prone riding to my dropknee board. Instead of picking up another board I would just rather do it on the same thing.

Kawika: Back to dropknee. How do you feel your generation compares to the older generation of dropkneers? Do you feel you’re living up to their standards?

Dubb: Kainoa, Aka, and Roach set an extremely high standard as far as style. What can be done and what looks good. Those are pretty big shoes to fill. I don’t think anyone is mirroring and doing

things exactly the same way they did, but as far as the guys that have come since them from Hawaii, I think they are doing a great job at representing dk.

I think Hawaii has always had the best dropkneers.

I don’t think that will ever change. Bud Miyamoto, Cassidy Sonoda, Jacob Pembrook, are some of my close friends that I see ripping all the time.

Kawika: Let’s talk about that dropknee barrel you locked into at Waimea. That was kind of gutsy. No one else has done that, at that level, before in the shore break. Would you like to walk us through that wave?

Dubb: It’s been goal of mine for a long time. To go out and ride Waimea a little bit bigger than I have in the past. It was a really nice day. A clean day— good, medium to large shore break. Luckily I got a wave where I could get up on a wave dropknee.

Even catching from outside, the get up was steep and jacking up. Like a rip bowl. The takeoff was kind of hairy. I was able to manage the chop and cruised through the bottom turn and just waited to see what the wave was going to do. It built and I eased up and just let it throw over me and enjoyed it.

Kawika: Sick! Yeah, the shots show how nuts that wave was. All right, what are your thoughts about the Aussie style of bodyboarding?

Dubb: They’ve done some really cool stuff, but as far as everyone doing the same thing and being repetitive, I think it’s boring. It’s not quite as progressive as they would like to believe. I’m really passionate about style and I think it’s really cool when people have a unique style. I really like when people surf with personality, and I see that other places but not so much in Australia. It seems a little empty and superficial. They are not riding with much soul, it seems … and just trying to do specific things when there is a lot more to the wave. It’s a huge canvas. You don’t have to stick to a just a few set of moves.

Kawika: This new generation of bodyboarders have come to associate Churchills with Aussie bodyboarding. Now that your brother is riding his own Churchill model, do you still feel the same way about that whole Churchill culture?

Dubb: Well, there is an attitude that goes along with it about being superior. They, the Australians, use the Churchills as an example. But you know

DUBB GOING BIG | PH: ANDREW RAMS FACEBOOK.COM/ANDREWRAMSPHOTOGRAPHY

a lot of good guys have worn Churchills, so the fin doesn’t mean everything. It’s just part of their ideology.

Kawika: What do you think the future is for Hawaiian bodyboarding? Do you think it is what it used to be? Especially in comparison to performance standards around the world today?

Dubb: Yeah, I still think it is the standard even if people stop seeing it as the Hawaiian standard.

You know, Stewart, my brother, and Skipper. They still set the standard for prone. But, yeah, I still think Hawaii will always be at the forefront in terms of riding waves in general. So whether or not it gets the attention, the spot light, as it used to or always had, you know, is debatable. I think it will always be the place where it really goes down.

DUBB ALL STYLE | PH: NEAL MIYAKE | HISURFADVISORY.COM

Kawika: You’ve spent quite a bit of time on the North Shore over the years. What’s your take on it?

Dubb: The North Shore is awesome. To me, it’s a Pipe addiction. It’s, you know, the proving ground.

The more that you want to be seen by the world’s media, you should definitely be here during the winter months. When Pipe is breaking, there is no where else I’d rather be than spending all day in the water at Pipe. That’s why I keep coming back.

Kawika: What’s the drawback to the Pipe addiction?

Dubb: Yeah, there is definitely tons of drama. It’s super crowded. It’s a tight, small place. If you live on the seven-mile miracle, you’re going to see the same people everyday and you’re going to get into a bit of routine … or rut. It’s an intense vibe, seeing all the bulldogs around everyday and trying to stay out of their way while trying to do your thing.

So it’s pretty complicated and intense and not for everyone … just like traveling the tour, you know.

Not the right thing for a lot of guys who are of world class caliber. If you don’t like surfing with crowds, then maybe don’t go there.

Kawika: ‘AURAI! Nuff’ said. Much MAHALO Dave and see you in the water!

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PH: MICHELLE ROZZEN

DK WARS www.dkwars.com

By Chris Won Taloa I was asked to do a write up on DK Wars. To tell you the idea behind it and how it works. To be honest, it all started with me talking shit on Facebook. I look at the internet like a big piece of shit we don’t need, so I write and say sailorlike shit on it all the time. Well, I shit talked guys into an all out dropknee war out at a spot in SoCal that is supposed to be a big secret. Guys showed up from all over the place, shit went down, and guys got flanked like it was Call of Duty. My generation kicked the snot out of a few guys and a few guys from other generations kicked the snot out of us. (Not me. Except for Roach, I ripped over all of you clowns. He had my number, but I’ll kick his ass again real soon. You heard me bug ass honky booger!)

I want everyone to know that DK Wars is not a bodyboarding contest. Not at all! No heats. No wave counts. No judges. No closing off the beach to others. The public is encouraged to surf with the riders. You don’t have to pay to enter unless you want to win the pot. We do solo or four man teams at each event. You win the pot by the votes the public and other riders give you. Videographers, photographers, and all media are welcome. We only run it if the waves are going to be sick.

DK Wars has done something I haven’t seen since the 80’s—it has created etiquette, believe it or not. You’d think that a whole bunch of bodyboarders showing up at your break might trip you out—and it can, no lie—but the vibe where people show respect for each other is amazing.

That is what has been happening at each and every one of these events.

DK Wars has been radically multiplying. They’re creating amazing growth to a form of riding, dropknee, which has not been fully capitalized on since the mid 90’s when competitions focused primarily on prone riding more than dropknee and stand up. We choose spots that I feel

will progress the flow and creativity of drop knee along with its evolution. In fact, evolution, creativity, and knowledge are definitely taking huge leaps and bounds for dropknee with this event format. We are continuously looking for individuals interested in working with us to grow these events. Sponsors, extra hands, assistance, you name it… we’re grateful. Every event we learn about structure and how to make things simpler and more functional.

For the record, I don’t make money off of any of you. All your money goes right back into your pocket, right there at the beach, or at the after party, which is usually thrown at a house somewhere right next to the event. Usually a rider’s house where we all watch the footage, eat, drink a few brewskies and get pumped and laugh over it all. And with the large number individuals that show up at these things, there are tons and tons of laughs.

Dropknee is going up. The complete bodyboarder has a new phrase: DK, standup, prone. If you can do all three well that’s when you are a complete all around rider.

And I have the full intention of bringing the other two into fruition in amazing fashion through these events. California is a great place to work on dropknee riding. There’s so much available here to take advantage of. I’ve decided to make it happen. Show people there’s more than just prone in this game. Get more people excited about what this is.

Expand the horizons of those who only prone.

Fuck. I’m done. Thank goodness!

Laters, Won Ton

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