Roland on Wine: A Magical Red Wine Unfamiliar to Most

Nancy just put on the “December” album by George Winston, a classic in our household. I’m sure you have an album that just automatically starts playing at a certain time every year. The kids cringe that we would start playing Christmas music so early. But “December” isn’t technically a Christmas album!

A “magical” red wine unfamiliar to most

Three-grape blend perfect with holiday fare

By Marc Roland

Some things just never get old for me. The memories contained in the notes of the songs are what bring meaning. Family gatherings, holiday parties, important life events that happen in the winter time. To think it was 40 years ago —1982 — when this album was released. A lot of life has taken place to this soundtrack. In 1982, I didn’t even drink wine, let alone think I would ever become passionate about it. That was a long time ago. What things in your life set the soundtrack? It could be meaningful traditions or precious keepsakes that are probably worthless in value but priceless in memories. I discovered “December” in 1982, and it has been with me ever since. I’m glad I discovered it. I took a risk that I would love the music; I bought the record, I played it over and over again and it grew on me. When I started drinking wine, it too, was a discovery of what I liked and didn’t like. Now, I have the opportunity to help you in your wine journey by recommending the red blend you don’t know about, but should...Rhône GSM.

It’s magical just like this time of year, a blend of three grape varieties grown in France’s Rhône Valley: Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre. The Cote du Rhône is an area near Avignon where the popes once ruled, where lavender permeates the air and sunshine tranquilizes the soul. Many other grape varieties grow there, too, but GSM dominates. I would venture that no other blend has the storied history of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the celebrated appellation where the best wine is made. We could say it is a holy union between grapes that just happened to grow well together with the meticulous and meditative blending of monks over centuries of compline (final prayer service of the day in the Christian tradition of canonical hours), and hard work during the day. The three grape varieties are vastly different. Grenache is light and fruity. Made alone, it is fresh and floral, and often ends up as the grape of choice for provincial rosé. My son Zak, is a huge fan of Grenache because it is well balanced with soft tannins, and pairs with food well. It is also a favorite with sommeliers who find it pleasing after drinking and recommending bolder wines all day. Then, there is syrah. This is the finesse source for the blend; syrah grown in warmer climates ripens quickly, so the wines will typically present riper fruit flavors, like dark blackberry and plum, with a full mouth-feel.

Finishing out the blend is the less familiar Mourvèdre. The most prominent flavors found in Mourvèdre are dark fruits, like blueberries, but it is the different nuances — like black pepper, smoke, earth, and roses — that make it unique. It is what I call a rustic and wild grape, like wild game. It’s savory. Alone it can be tannic. Blended it is glorious. GSM is a wine that perfectly pairs with traditional holiday fare: savory foods of any kind, like a crown roast of pork, prime rib, beef Wellington; mushroom dishes, roasted root vegetables. And don’t forget the cheese. Please drink responsibly, which means don’t drink and drive. But do try a Rhône blend, with your holiday meal or anytime.

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Longview resident and former Kelso teacher Marc Roland started making wine in 2008 in his garage. He and his wife, Nancy, now operate Roland Wines at 1106 Florida Street in Longview’s new “barrel district.” For wine tasting hours, call 360-846-7304.