LAUNCH ISSUE
Editor’s Letter Although the Nordic, minimalistic and naturalistic theme of our re-launch issue was prepped and planned months ago, the theme and content from our writers and creatives here at Sussex on Trend seems all the more relevant now, in the beginnings of 2017. Recently, we have experienced as a both a country and a planet some pretty dire and trying times, what with Brexit, President Trump, the Syrian crisis and subsequent refugee crisis, as well as countless more global catastrophes and political tensions. However, there is a light at the end of the tunnel. As a caring community, those unwilling to allow such atrocities to continue have stood together, loving and supporting one another around the world, offering help when possible. We are experiencing first hand vast liberal and radical change, a huge change in humanistic thinking and despite all the hate prevalent from the governments and extremists, I believe globally we are becoming more self-aware and much more accepting and loving of diversity in all its beautiful forms. In this issue, the big re-launch of the university’s fashion magazine, we maintain high levels of interest and deep knowledge of the wide world of fashion. However, now we are incorporating all aspects of life and culture, promoting self-love, discussing difficult subjects both within the fashion industry as well as out, and touching upon topical issues which affect us all now more than ever in the hopes of creating a much more well-rounded magazine, which hopefully will contain something of interest for both the fashionable and the political, a fusion of qualities which one friend of mine claimed to “sum up every student at Sussex.” Therefore this magazine is now tailor made for the Sussex student, and we hope you will enjoy reading it as much as we have had putting it all together with the students in mind. EDITOR IN CHIEF Francesca Giove
Editor’s Letter There is nothing more satisfying than wrapping up warm, crunching through the snow and coming back to a cosy house. I’ve always been a winter lover and whilst many of my friends try to wish the cold weather away, I fully embrace it. This year as a magazine we have tried to escape the brushes of vibrant reds and greens that often wash over winter’s beauty; reverting back to a simple Nordic theme. Explore the idea of a Nordic getaway by visiting some of the hidden treasures we found located in Denmark, Sweden, Norway and Finland. Granted a holiday with an icy chill does not sound that appealing but I’m sure the mystical view of the Northern Lights will soothe any doubts. If you have sensitive skin like mine, the end result of a snow-laden holiday is more likely to be chaffed skin than a golden glow but our beauty editor, Victoria, has this covered with some natural facial recipes to keep your skin looking healthy. As Fran shows in her beautiful cover shoot, Nordic styled pieces can be both stylish and versatile. This is the perfect opportunity to get inspired for a capsule winter wardrobe, with basic cuts and neutral colours. Sustainable fashion is so beneficial and rising in popularity and we hope this issue inspires you into finding some timeless garments that will last for many winters to come. EDITOR IN CHIEF Molly Raycraft
inside SO TREND 4 A NORDIC WINTER GETAWAY 11 SHOULD CLEAVAGE BE A FASHION TREND? 14 TEN BEST PARTY LOOKS 17 INTERVIEW WITH BRIGHTON GIRLS PROBLEMS 20 THE BURNING OF THE BRAS 27 THE NO MAKE UP REVOLUTION PAGE 23
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COVER STORY 30 MY WEEK WITH FASHION DESIGN STUDENT CRISTINA PALACIOS
33 SKIN SALVATION QUICK AND NATURAL WAY! 40 EVERYTHING I AM IS SECOND-HAND
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A Nordic Winter Getaway The winter months are finally in full swing, greeting us with icy winds and down pours that make you look nothing more glamorous than a drowned rat. Many escape the cold clutches of the season by jetting off to a sun filled sandy beach but the rising trend of people visiting European countries is becoming more and more attractive. Norway With the Norwegian sea framing much of Norway you are guaranteed to be delighted with beautiful coastal settings. The Atlantic Road stretches across small island scattered across the sea, it was voted most beautiful bike ride in Norway, so if you don’t mind bringing along some cycling gear this could be an absolute treat for the eyes. This country is nowhere near short of landscape, it homes some of the most famous fjords in the world such as the Nordfjord and The Geirangerfjord.
However if you’re not so one with nature, don’t worry there’s plenty to do other than face the brisk weather. A trip into the capital Oslo cal prove warmer activities, such as a show at The Norwegian National Opera and Ballet. Osla is rich in culture, the Munch Museum of Edvard Munch considered a pioneer of expressionism with one of hismost renowned works of art being the ‘Scream’. Choosing to stay somewhere less rural can still provide you with the beauties of the countryside. Oslo is surrounded by forests and mountains and you can easily take a day trip from the biggest city in Norway for a sport of skiing. Make sure to be daring and try some Norwegian delicacies whilst there including Farikal, Krumkake and Smalahove. Denmark You’ve probably been touched by Danish culture without even knowing it. This is the home not
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5 only of Danish royalty but of the original little mermaid a novel wrote by Hans Christian Anderson, and you can visit a bronxe statue of the little mermaid in Copenhagen harbour. Why not try some freshly caught fish from whilst there? The city is full of small winding roads easy to explore. Relive you childhood at the Legoland Billund Resort, the building bricks were invented in Denmark so of course you won’t be disappointed, even the resorts chips are rumoured to be in the shape of lego bricks! If you would prefer a touch of the countryside it is easy to travel to one of the National Parks or coastal areas such as North Jutland for beautiful sandy beaches, probably a touch colder than the mediterraneum but definitely makes up for this in scenery. If you want to also indulge in a bit of historic culture whilst in Denmark
there are many museums with information about the Vikings. Finland Finland is of course the home of lapland so if you’ve never met a reindeer now is you’re chance. Nights in Finland are so dark that it means the Northern lights can be seen in all their glory. Many hotels cater to this and you can spend a night in warmth but still under the stars, with an Arctic tree house to glass igloo in Roveniemi. The lights are more visible the more North you go and usually amke an appearance from August to April with some clear skies and a bit of luck. Finland is divided into 4 regions, Lapland, Lekeland, Coast and Archipelago and the Northern lights. Lakeland is as it’s name suggests, the land is covered in glistening lakes, and is a perfect spot fro fishing. Archipelago is a long area of coast land which runs along
6 the side of Finland, it’s best discovered on bike or foot and is packed with old wooden seaside towns. Of course Helsinki is the capital, surrounded by the Baltic sea which has around 300 islands, so whether you want to experience city life which is full of culture or spend the day island hopping this is a perfect location. Sweden Nothing sounds more relaxing than an authentic Swedish massage from its homeland. Spas have become a popular location fr tourists wanting to switch off a little. Sweden has the perfect landscape for skiing and there are many resorts to visit such as Riksgransen and Orsa Gronklitt if you wish to try your hand. The Royal Palaces in Sweden are open to visitors if you wish to look round the abodes of Swedish royalty. If you’re a food lover, which let’s face it who isn’t the Frantzen and Faviken might be worth a trip
as they both featured in the top 50 restaurants in the world. There are also so many different types of accommodation in rural and city areas. Whether it’s camping, a hotel or a little cottage by the sea there’s sure to be something to suit what you’re looking for. There’s even a bar made of ice if you don’t mind getting a bit chilly! A bar made of ice if you don’t mind getting a bit chilly! Look round the abodes of Swedish royalty. If you’re a food lover, which let’s face it who isn’t the Frantzen and Faviken might be worth a trip as they both featured in the top 50 restaurants in the world. There are also so many different types of accommodation in rural and city areas. Whether it’s camping, a hotel or a little cottage by the sea there’s sure to be something to suit what you’re looking for. There’s even a bar made of ice if you don’t mind getting a bit chilly! Molly Raycraft
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ordic fashion is clean, crisp and fresh. Also, somewhat paradoxically, it is all about reusing and recycling classic clothes from past seasons and past trends for modern ware. You can take old items from your wardrobe and rejuvenate them with modern colours and accessories, breathing fresh life into old clothes to make you fall in love with them all over again. Knitted items such as jumpers, cardigans or even ponchos as modelled here, are timeless pieces and have been worn in almost every decade of the 20th century, despite
innovative ideas about fashion emerging in each era. Re-styling this classic item for 2017 requires soft and muted shades of white, navy and light brown to keep the look new and fresh, adding your old walking boots, or clinically clean Timberland boots, for strolls in the Nordic countryside (or the Cambridgeshire chalk pits, where this shoot was located). If you’d prefer
a pop of colour in your Nordic wardrobe, then all hues of blues, purples and reds are welcome. These colours fuse together and create some warmth for the cold, bitter, winter months. Patterns, as well, work perfectly with your Nordic wardrobe, with large, widespread patterns
working best as prints, and delicate, intricate wove patterns for knitted items, such as this poncho from Topshop, or the classic Fair Isle jumper, found across the country in charity and vintage shops.
Model: Katy Taylor Photographer: Harriet Bols Styling: Francesca Giove
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Should Cleavage Be a Fashion Trend? British Vogue had a great year in 2016. They celebrated their 100th year in publishing by starting a successful YouTube channel, holding a ‘100 years of Vogue’ exhibition at the National Portrait Gallery and featuring HRH Kate Middleton as an honorary cover girl. But, 2017 may not end well for British Vogue. You might agree that the amount of cleavage you’re bearing right now was not always acceptable 100 years ago. For women with a bigger bust it’s not a ‘trend’ they can change - it’s their body. The fashion industry’s opinion and approach to cleavage has always been controversial. “Desperately Seeking Cleavage” was the title of an article in the Vogue’s December issue, written by journalist Kathleen BairdMurray. While some believe that the ‘trend’ of cleavage really is over, some argued that females who have certain body types simply do not have a choice to stop, or if they even should. In every decade, the approach and ‘use’ of cleavage from designers in the industry has changed. With
the rise of feminism and body empowerment from the 1960s, women do not want their body parts to be classed as a fashion trend of something ‘out of style’. 18th century women often wore dresses that verged on showing the nipple. Whilst in the Victorian era, a flash of an ankle could see you labelled as harlot, practically anything below a turtle neckline was indecent. Marilyn Monroe and Elizabeth Taylor have become iconic poster girls for the sex appeal of curves from Hollywood’s golden era of cinema. It’s always been about trends and popularity. But with the rise of Feminism; the burning of bras, independence and women embracing their sexuality how they want, women no long want to be encased in a ‘cleavage trend’ and certainly don’t want to be classed as out of style for wearing a low cut top. The ‘Free the Nipple’ movement, a response to the taboo of a visible nipple, has taken to the streets with celebrities Kim Kardashian and Emily Ratajkowski baring all, causing both negative and positive rections. A poll created on Twitter by British Vogue showed that 67% of the voters still be
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live in the idea that “if you have it flaunt it”. High-fashion designers such as Gucci, Vetements, Valentino and Prada sported more demure looks for A/W16, with pastel colours, side cleavage and high necklines. Gucci brought a fresh breath of air with their high neck, cosmic inspired, glitzy dresses. Valentino got their inspiration from tribal wear, using patterned material on long skirts, capes and turtle-neck lace shirts. However, this brings up yet again the conversation of distance between high fashion and the real life customer. The inaccessibility of high fashion brands is nothing new. They have often been accused of pushing on body type as the epitome of beauty through supermodels. It is a fact that fashion labels determine the fashion of the day, but it is a sad reality that
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this also includes body shape. The issue remains, magazines still refer to cleavage as a trend. The beauty of fashion is its art, fabric and cuts so there needs to be less focus on cleavage and more on the beauty of necklines. The fashion industry is constantly being accused of being unrelatable, elitist and discriminative. The ‘Bible of Fashion’, Vogue, never hesitates to present us with new and controversial trends, but referring to cleavage as a trend may have been a step too far. However, with Ashley Graham the ‘it’ girl and plus size model of the moment modelling January 2017’s cover, it’s fair to say being big or small is perfectly fine. Alara Unal
Ten Best Party Looks The start of the new year brings new prospects and opportunities for all, including a brand new calendar of social occasions. Dressing for everyday situations is easy, whilst finding that perfect party look can take hours of searching and preparation. Here we have selected some potential party outfits, varying in style, material and decade to suit everyone and save everyone time. In a homage to Bowie and the ever-cyclical nature of fashion, we find that the Eighties are back. If big and bold is what you want to deliver in your party look, then channelling this decade is a must. Turn heads in a statement black and sequinned top that’s slightly edgy and finish with some black kick flare jeans and leather ankle boots. Psychedelic face paint optional. Continuing with the dramatic is a party look, take inspiration from some of the big sleeves seen on the catwalk last year at shows such as Tibi, Loewe and J.W Anderson. A sheer sleeve top is perfect for showing off a little bit of skin, you
could continue the oversized theme of the look with some wide leg trousers or keep it simple with some skinny jeans. Go for a statement lip in a red or dark berry shade to add drama to this party look. Give in to your inner disco diva with a nod to the Seventies in an all-inone halter neck jumpsuit. Choose an all-black glared number and break it up with some gold accessories, such as some gold hoops and chunky heeled sandals or add some face glitter for a disco vibe. If minimalism is more your style, then look for a jumpsuit a little more simple yet slick . Dress it up or down with some plain white trainers or black heels and let the piece speak for itself. Further Nineties party look inspiration can be found in the form of this a classic slip dress, plain or patterned. Reminiscent of ‘It girls’ Kate Moss and Winona Ryder back in the day, the slip dress is enough on its won with a leather jacket and Dr Martins or layered over the top of a simple t-shirt.
A trend set to take off in this new year is that of the ‘new nude’ Neutral hues of stone, lilac and blush are expected to be THE colour palette of the new season. Get in on the trend early with a simple mini dress in either of theses shades. Then cater to the cold weather by wearing with tights and ankle boots or go glamorous with a metallic clutch bag and slinky sandals. Another trend that’s here to stay in 2017 is that of sportswear luxe. This party look is for those girls who feel more comfortable in their gym kit than a tight dress and requires minimum effort to achieve. Opt for a feminine and flirty branded tennis style dress or dress up your tracksuit bottoms with a statement crop top. To make this look more party appropriate, wear some black strappy heels and pull hair into a sleek high ponytail. Experimenting with texture is another sure way to deliver a key party look. Lace, suede, and velvet are all fashionable right now and can add something to an otherwise simple dress. For added style
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16 points, choose a velvet or lace dress that has an off-the-shoulder neckline, tapping into another key trend of the season. Make the most of your winter wardrobe and pull out your pair of over-the-knee boots as a starting point for
your party outfit. For a flirty look choose a polo-neck tank top and wear with a leather mini skirt in a metallic or bright coloured shade. Complete the look with a couple of hair braids for a fun Nineties style. Finally, if you’re looking
for something a bit special, then nothing says show-stopping more than a sequin dress. A classic embellished LBD gives you that touch of glamour for that important night out and should be finished off with some red lips and Hollywood waves.
Emily Stedman Here’s some links to our top picks: 80’s fashion – sequin butterfly top https://marketplace.asos.com/listing/tops/vintage-1980sblack-and-silver-sequin-butterfly-top/2863656 Volume – Topshop oversized sleeves http://www.topshop.com/en/tsuk/product/sheer-circlesleeve-top-by-boutique-6147716?bi=0&ps=20&Ntt=made%20in%20britain 70s – wide legged black frill halter-neck jumpsuit https://marketplace.asos.com/listing/ jumpsuits/vintage-1970s-black-frill-sleeve-halter-wide-leg-jumpsuit/2946453 90s minimalist – vintage greys 90s ribbed jumpsuit https://marketplace.asos.com/listing/ jumpsuits/vintage-grey-90s-ribbed-jumpsuit/2945668 Slip dress – H&M conscious http://www2.hm.com/en_gb/productpage.0466901003.html The new nudes – Lilac mini dress https://marketplace.asos.com/listing/dresses/vintage-90smini-lilac-dress/2952543 Sportwear – Adidas tennis style dress (8, REZINA, ASOS marketplace, £30) https://marketplace.asos.com/listing/dresses/adidas-tennis-style-dress/2966134 Velvet – velvet t-shirt dress https://marketplace.asos.com/listing/dresses/vintage-90s-blackv-neck-velvet-t-shirt-dress/2907692 and off the shoulder velvet dress https://marketplace. asos.com/listing/dresses/90s-vintage-black-off-shoulder-velvet-mini-dress/2946466?fromSearchTerm=off%20the%20shoulder Knee-high boots, with polo neck tank top https://marketplace.asos.com/listing/tops/90s-retro-minimalist-turleneck-party-tank-top/2955051 and purple leather mini skirt https://marketplace.asos.com/listing/skirts/leather-mini-skirt-uk-8/2966662 Fringed sequin dress http://www.beyondretro.com/en/party-dress-black-with-full-lining-e00337775.html
Interview with
Brighton Girl Problems
Brighton Girl Problems is a beauty, lifestyle and fashion blog run by an anonymous woman living in Brighton. She has run a Twitter account for a number of years called ‘@BtonGirlProbs’ when she has gained a number of followers due to her honest yet witty tweets about life, love, relationships and alcohol; something young women all over the country can relate to. She is a great person to follow if you are new to the area as she has plenty of blog entries about days out around Brighton, perfect if you need inspiration for days out in the area. In her blog post ‘A Day Out in Brighton September 2016’ she describes a day out in Brighton starting with breakfast at Bills and then detailing the shops that she went into in the North Laines. This is fantastic article for students around Brighton who are unsure of how to spend a day in Brighton, as when you’re new to a city it can be rather overwhelming, by being able to follow Brighton Girl Problems blogs, it can make the transition of moving into the city smoother. How did you first get into blogging? I started my Twitter, and as there’s a 140 character limit, I wanted a platform to write
more on, so I started my blog. What (or who) inspired you to write a blog? I’ve loved writing ever since I was a little girl, and once I discovered that you could create a blog, I wanted one. What excites you most about blogging? The fact that I get to meet so many different people and be involved with so many amazing brands, that me simply writing a post can help so many people out there - there’s so many incredible aspects about blogging. Have you got any tips for people who want to start a blog but unsure of how to start? It’s saturated market so you NEED to be yourself and write about what you’re absolutely passionate about. Start a free blog on Wordpress and just go for it. Write about things that you’re in love with, write when you want to, and don’t change for anyone. Did you realise when you started that it would gain this much success? Absolutely not - I know everyone says that but I genuinely did not think anyone would bother to read it. It’s crazy and
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it still hasn’t sunk in, because to me, I’m just this small town Brighton girl with a blog and that’s all there is to it, but there’s more to it now and it’s so exciting but scary at the same time. Where would you say is the best place to get cocktails in Brighton and why? Bohemia Bar, Be At One and Twisted Lemon. Bohemia and Be At One are more glam night out kind of places and Twisted Lemon is cheaper and more casual. They all have a great atmosphere and are great to go with friends or in a couple. Where would you say is the best place to get supper in Brighton is and why? The Coal Shed for steak - best steak I’ve ever had, it’s incredible, and The Curry Leaf Cafe is just unreal for curry! Skyfall in Hove is amazing for a roast dinner. Where would you say is the best night club in Brighton is? It’s a difficult one as I’m older now and prefer a cocktail bar, but Pryzm is always going to be the biggest club that’s most versatile. I always had a good night in Coalition or Shoosh when I was younger though - I’m hoping that they open a new club soon as no-
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where new has opened for years! Do you have any tips or suggestions for people who are new to the are? i.e. where to go and what to see? Go to the Lanes and try all the different cafes and pubs and bars and restaurants and just discover places that you love. Walk on the beach - it’s so underrated, it’s something that always cheers me up and makes me feel at peace!. Don’t be afraid to do the mainstream stuff - the pier, the i360 and pavilion, it’s completely necessary to do when you’re new to Brighton and before you get to know the area! So for anyone living in or around Brighton I seriously suggest visiting her blog for some wonderful ideas on how to get the most out of Brighton, it is a vibrant city with so much so explore and Brighton Girl Problems blog is the perfect way to figure out which parts of the city are the most interesting to visit. Blog - brightongirlproblems.co.uk Twitter - @btongirlprobs Instagram - @brightongirlprobs Interview by: Isabella Wixted
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The Burning of the Bras
n the 1960s, women within the western world were protesting vehemently for their rights, rights to not only be men’s equal but to also be independent from men. Famously women were known to burn their bras, symbolizing their independence from men, as well as demonstrating their freedom and unwillingness to conform to the patriarchal society they were subject to. In 2017 women are (still?!) protesting for their rights, but also for the rights of other minorities marginalized like ourselves, such as the LGBTQ community, and for other important humanitarian concerns such racial inequality, fair healthcare and immigration policies. In this politically uncertain and seemingly unstable time up ahead,
evident with President Trump signing an order to dramatically reduce UN abortion funding (surrounded by all white all male government officials no less) it appears that fashion is reflecting the rebellious and liberal mood of the activists and seemingly being rid of bras altogether. Most of the women I know, all young 20 somethings, have either dramatically reduced the amount they wear bras or (like me) have stopped wearing the bra outright. I haven’t worn a fitted, padded, push-up, traditional bra for over three years now and it may be the best decision I have ever made. Now, before all you brassiere loyalists hiss and tut at me, with cries of “Don’t
you c a r e about sag?!” I must make clear that I have not been au natural all-day every-day for roughly 1,095 days. No, three years ago I bought myself a multipack of these H&M lace bralets in the hopes of finding lingerie that didn’t require 6 ft. of material to make and which opened up a whole new world of boobie freedom I wasn’t even aware of. From the time I sprouted bee-
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stings my mother, a very well-endowed woman, insisted that I be protected and supported from the 28-AA get go, with so much padding and straps that I felt more like a horse being fitted for a saddle than a 12 year old girl being fitted for a bra. I heeded my mother’s advice and never went a day without wearing a proper fitted bra for over 6 years, but I never felt comfortable. Throughout my teens it became clear that I was an early bloomer, friends made jokes about my breast size and I laughed along, shrugging it off. Boys would ogle unapologetically and unashamed, and I brushed it off as boys just being boys, taking it as a compliment that they were even paying me any attention. But I was extremely conscious of my burdensome boobs. Obviously, I would sometimes show them off if there was a party or I was going on a date (cinema then Nandos), believing them to be my
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best chances of nabbing a second date, plus my mother always told me to flaunt what I had and never be embarrassed. But everyday life was difficult and I secretly hated them. I hated not having the option of going bra-less like my C cup friends, I hated that I couldn’t buy cute delicate pastel bras from Topshop because they didn’t make bras in my size, I hated that male friends thought they could cop a feel, or outright stare, like it was their right. I hated it all. And then, like every other middle class basic white girl from southern England, I travelled around South East Asia on my gap yah. During those 10 weeks I lost my baby fat and my inhibitions and after my third week away from the motherland I had stopped wearing bras completely. And it was fantastic. In the climate of Thailand et al, bras were not an option; they made you sticky, sweaty,
and uncomfortable, suffocating and smothering your skin until you wanted to rip it off and throw it in the ocean. I felt sublimely happy and weightless without my Bravissimo bras buckled in tight around my chest, opting for bikinis if I needed some coverage and support. But back in cloudy England I could not adjust. I could not go back to wearing 2 tonnes of material on my front which somehow protected my boobs whilst seemingly emitting a honing device which appeared to make my boobs bigger and more pronounced. My mother, grandmother, sisters and friends couldn’t understand why I had stopped wearing bras, told me I would regret it in my thirties, told me it was not a good look but I no longer cared because I was comfortable. And that is how I stumbled across these lace bralets, shopping for alternatives to the detested bra. They offered sup-
port but didn’t balloon my chest, they worked underneath every top, jumper and dress I owned, they were outrageously comfortable and I no longer felt like I had to avoid tight clothing to hide my boobs. I finally felt confident and happy with my chest. Over the last three years I have upped my game. I now purposely buy tops and other items of clothing which don’t require wearing a bra, especially for big events or nights out. The majority of days out of the week I can wear tops which shield the fact that I’m not wearing a
bra, tops that offer minimal bounce and pain (I would not suggest cycling completely braless) and which maintain comfort. And it is not just me who has figuratively burned all my bras, out of 18 female friends I asked, only 2 said that in the last 3 years they have not either stopped or reduced wearing bras in favour of either going at it au natural, or with minimalistic alternatives. It seems that the future is braless. Most women I know living in 2017 favour comfort over convention and trend, which may explain why brands such as La Senza appear to be closing down in shopping centres across the UK, and why Victoria’s Secret can be appreciated for creating pretty lingerie, but my first thought is usually that any woman with more than 5% body fat would probably feel a tad uncomfortable looking like a stringed ham reading for roasting. But maybe that’s just me.
Maybe I’m too lazy to be uncomfortable to look like sex on legs in lingerie; maybe I’m not feminine enough to appreciate the push-up bra or maybe I’ve become too hardened by my liberal education at Sussex to let myself conform to ‘The Man’ and wear a normal bra. Whatever the reason is, I cannot see myself ever returning to the dark days of padding and pink, I would much rather happily accept the possibility of a nip-slip but be confident and comfortable than go back to strapping my boobs up, down, left or right, depending on whether or not Vogue claims cleavage is ‘in’ or not. Francesca Giove
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Photography: Melina Matthiessen
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L
ast year Alicia Keys was making headlines for her no make revolution, and good on her. I completely understand where she is coming from in terms of not wanting to cover up anymore, saying in essay for Lena Dunham’s Lenny Letter: “I hope to God it’s a revolution.’Cause I don’t want to cover up anymore. Not my face, not my mind, not my soul, not my thoughts, not my dreams, not my struggles, not my emotional growth. Nothing.” Not only is she extremely talented and beautiful, but her skin is perfectly clear and glowing when she makes her makeup-free appearances. Some other celebrities have followed suit, although not as strictly, and
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even Kim Kardashian who is known for her high maintenance look showed up to the Balenciaga show with no makeup back in October, and posting the proof on Instagram. However, having said all this, Alicia Keys is a celebrity with millions to her name, and has the access to the best most expensive skin treatments and products, and it has been revealed by her makeup artist Dotti, that she endures rigorous skincare regimens which include regular facials, acupuncture as well as exercise and a healthy diet. It’s no wonder her skin glows the way it does. As someone who’s been wearing makeup since my school days,
although back then it was cheap foundation applied badly, I do find Alicia’s approach empowering and refreshing. Everyday we are bombarded with images of celebrities looking flawless and impossibly made up, giving us all unrealistic expectations that if we learn their secrets or buy the same products we can look the same. With the rise of YouTube tutorials these past few years has given us regular people the access to learn how to apply makeup professionally and there’s an infinite amount of videos out there promising us flawless foundation or the perfect contour, with new videos emerging daily. And granted it seems everywhere girls and boys have seriously upped their makeup game; it was only a couple years ago you could see girls with foundation too orange for their complexion, huge slug eyebrows and the dreaded foundation lips. Although this look does still exist on some, it seems today people are much more aware of how to apply makeup well and which products work best for them. As much as I personally love makeup as well, it is however slightly worrying how far it can go. For many it has become a security blanket, with some girls refusing to leave the house without a full face on, and you
only need to look at a couple of memes to see that younger and younger girls are jumping on the makeup revolution.
I myself have gone through that stage of never wanting anyone to see me without my makeup, always believing people are going to be judging my bad skin and lack of eyebrows, but these days, maybe as I get older, I’m starting to give less of a shit. Or perhaps since coming to university where, like most people, it has been my first time living in a house with people that aren’t parents or siblings and where it is nearly impossible for them to see you without makeup, but either way I’m pretty glad. Also, as someone who lives with a lot of boys, who complain about how long I take to get ready, several of them have told me they can’t even tell the difference when I wear makeup – which is slightly
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infuriating considering how much effort I put in, although I know they mean it as a compliment. But no I do not wear makeup to for the approval of boys or in an attempt to pull on a night out, it is much more for my own self confidence and actually more for the approval of girls who can appreciate a good highlight. But I’m digressing; my point is as much as I love makeup, I do not want to rely on it everyday, and as much fun as it is to put on and try out new looks, I am aware that a fair amount of my short life has, and will, been taken up by my daily routine, as well as a large amount of my past pay checks and student loan. This is why I’m all for Alicia Keys paving the way for natural beauty, but in no way whatsoever does that mean I’m going to throw out all my makeup this instant. Like the majority of young people out there, my skin is far from perfect and although I do not have the worst skin, I am still not happy with it. Acne, blackheads, redness – I’m sure everyone can relate to at least one if not all, is just part of life unfortunately, and as someone who has been suffering from eczema for years, I know the feeling of wanting to cover my whole face in foundation. Unlucky for me, it is only in the past year or two the eczema has found its way
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onto my face, and I never know if it’s going to have a good day where it is virtually invisible, or a bad day in which it begins to resemble a flesh eating virus. And as tempting as it is to layer on the makeup to cover my dry red skin and visible pores, I know it is only going to make it worse in the long run. And yes I know this does sounds like a lecture your parents might have given you, but it is true. And just like most people, I do not have Alicia Keys’ skin or the money and access to her treatments, and as a pretty lazy student, I do not partake in healthy eating or exercise as much as I ought to. But I am learning how to take care of my skin better, and opting for BB creams which are more beneficial whilst still giving enough coverage, and saving foundation for special occasions. Hopefully one day I do have the confidence Alicia has, although speaking honestly I do not see myself ever going completely makeup free for the rest of my life, but for now at least I am going to spend my time more wisely sleeping than waking up early to put on a whole face of makeup.
Mariah Colbourne
My Week with A Fashion Design Student Cristina Palacios s the year continues we see more and more people going to the library with the fear of the ‘exams and deadlines’ period getting closer. The library though is never empty, there is always those who want to make sure they start the course having everything up to date because, as we (students repeat every year: “This year, I am going to work harder”. But there is a big difference on how people look in the library from the first day until those horrible weeks of exams. We start to see more hoodies, trainers, leggings, messy hair buns (the real ones, not the “I just woke up and look how cute I am” ones), and no make-up. The inspiration you used to find everymorning to get dressed is now completely replaced by the stress of knowing you have to spend 12 hours in the library, and this time for real. It is what it is. We have to focus on our studies, that is why we are all at uni, right? But, what about those who study Fashion? Isn’t part of their study to look good
every day, to look like you belong in the fashion world? I had the opportunity to see how a Fashion student goes to class every day, and got to talk to her about her thoughts on fashion and street style. I am lucky too that this girl is my sister Cristina, so with a knock on her door I go into her bedroom I sit in from of her, and without even saying hello the interview starts. How would you describe your style? Mmmmm... I actually hate that question. I don’t know, I think it is such a difficult thing to now. I mean I love fashion so I like to experiment with it so one day it could be totally different to the next one. But I guess I like casual clothes, I don’t like wearing a lot of makeup, I love sneakers (or trainers for you Brits).... so yeah, casual would be the best word to describe it. Do you believe you have a different style for the weekdays and for the weekends? Not really, I dress the same way the whole week. Of course if I have a formal event I get dressed in a
more elegant way and I pay more attention to the details, such as the earrings, the handbag etc. What inspires you when you wake up to choose what you wear? There;s nothing really that inspires me every morning to choose what I wear. I just open my closet, pick a piece of clothing and from there I choose the rest of my outfit. Do you like to plan the day before or do you wear what you see in the moment? In general I don;t choose what I am going to wear the day before. I wake up and, as I said before, I pick something that I like and create the rest of my outfit from there. I think the best outfits are those that you pick in 5 minutes. When you overthink it you are never 100% happy with the result. Do you think you put more effort in going to university well-dressed because you study a Fashion degree? When the year began it is true that I worried a lot about how I dressed for going to uni. You think everybody is going to be super trendy and you don’t want to be
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What about the first day? Did you feel the pressure of having to be stylish because of the degree you were studying? Of course! On my first day I tried to wear an outfit in which I felt trendy and stylish. It took me like 20 minutes to get dressed! Do you think your street style has changed after starting university? How and why? Yes, my style has changed a bit. Before starting the
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course, there were many times when I didn’t dress 100% like I wanted to. I was scared of wearing strange and extravagant clothes because I knew people were going to look at me and comment about. But I’ve been at this uni for 4 months already, and I’ve seen every type of person and style. Seeing how everyone dress how they want to I said to myself why not me? I realised the only important opinion about the way I dress is mine, not anyone else’s. So yeah, my style has changed since I started uni in the way that I now feel more confident to wear things I used to like but wouldn’t be brave enough to wear. I imagine that now you have a lot more knowledge on fashion and its rules, what trends are in at the moment etc., is it some-
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Monday the boring one who dresses like everybody else. As the year continued this worry disappeared. In the end, the fashion world is one where you have to be who you really are, you have to show who you are and without being scared of what people will think or say. It’s about being you and nobody else.
thing you have in mind when thinking about what you are going to wear? It depends. When there is a new trend, like chokers for example, I have it in mind and if I like it I use it in my own way. But if I don’t like it I won’t follow it. I wouldn’t be being myself wearing it, I would just be wearing something because everyone likes it. What are your general thoughts on street style? (Does it define a person, does it give the insight to someone’s personality etc.) I don’t think there is a yes or no answer to this question. It depends, for example, referring to me, I don’t think my street style defines me as a person or that people will know how my personality is by looking at what I’m wearing in that moment. But, I do think there
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are some clothing styles ers are studying whatever like goth which is very par- degree but at the same time ticular to a type of person. sharing pictures of their outfits and are now in the fashSo what do you think about ion world. It’s crazy, like you social media sites such as can end up in the cover of a Instagram regarding street magazine because of your style? following in a social media Social media is so important site. I do think it is a bit sad, now in our world, and so because there are a lot of much regarding fashion and people with a lot of talent street style. Through it you that won’t go as far as somecan show the world your one who has thousands of style, your fashion ideas, followers just because they you can even create a new haven’t been noticed. But fashion trend. You just have yeah, you definitely have to to look at all those bloggers pay attention to your Instaand the massive success gram, it is like your gallery they are having and it is all and your portfolio, in a way. thanks to sites like Instagram. Finally, what piece of clothAnd what about Instagram ing are you more obsessed regarding your future fashwith for street style? ion career. Do you think I love sneakers, jackets and social media plays an imhandbags. Those are my top portant part on succeeding clothing items. From my in artsy degrees like yours? closet I am totally obsessed Yes of course! It’s like what I with my pink and black Nike said. Most of the Instagram- sneakers. I just think they
have that special thing that can transform a boring outfit into something unique. But I have to mention my white blazer too. It was customised by me because of a project we had to do for class. I had to pick a basic item and change it. I put feathers, chains and basically whatever I thought would look good and I really loved the final result. I guess it is one of my first design projects and I am quite proud of it so it has to be one of my top 5. Instagram: Crispalaciosv Interview by: Lucia Palacios
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Skin Salvation: The Quick and Natural Way! Want a fast, inexpensive yet natural way to cure that revision stressed skin or to relieve the overload of toxins in your skin? These 3 super easy masks give you a natural solution to treat your skin problems. With a mask for each skin type and a simple ingredient list, you can make these straightforward mixtures at home, in between completing all your deadlines! Oily Skin: Banana Face Mask How to: Mash up the banana and add lemon juice and honey. On a cleansed face, apply the product to your face and neck, leave it for about 15 minutes (although the longer the better - it will absorb to the oils more). Rinse off and continue with your regular skincare routine by applying moisturiser. Ingredients: 1 Fully Ripe Banana: Banana’s are rich in po-
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tassium and have many benefits. This provides hydration and therefore nourishes the skin. A common mistake people usually make with oily skin is that they deprive it of moisture, which only adds to the skin getting dry and naturally producing more oil. As well as moisturising, bananas are known to fade deep skin discolourations which is perfect for past acne scars. 1 Teaspoon of Honey: Honey is renowned for the natural moisture it provides. Honey also
contains antibacterial properties, which is key in healing inflamed acne. It deep cleanses and unclogs pores blocked with germs, dirt, excess sebum and grime. Perfect for all the problems oily skin causes! Add Lemon Juice: Lemons are rich in vitamin C and citric acid which help brighten the skin, again perfect for past acne scars or current blackheads and pimples. It also adds a refreshing feel to the mask! Combination Skin:
Extra Virgin Olive Oil and Tomato Face Mask How to: Extract all the seeds and juices from half a tomato and place in a bowl. Then add a tablespoon of Extra Virgin Olive Oil and mix together. This mask is a little messier than the others (although the results are worth it!). Apply to your face, due to the very slippery texture of this mask it’s sometimes best to add a drop of honey to thicken the texture slightly so it is easier to work with. Again, this mask can be left for 15 minutes but the longer the better! Ingredients: Half a Medium Tomato: The benefits of tomato for the skin are raved about in the beauty world. The brand YesTo arguably cre-
ated this hype. So why not create your own affordable and natural version at home? Tomatoes are renowned for tightening the pores so the mask will work as a natural pore minimiser too. Table Spoon of Olive Oil: To add moisture to combination skin, extra virgin olive oil is perfect for dry parts of the face. Olive oil contains antioxidants: vitamin E, polyphenols, and phytosterols. These antioxidants provide the protection your skin needs in terms of dehydration from perhaps over drinking at Christmas, exam stress and the overall daily dehydration from the harmful dayto-day exposure skin is subjected to. Chemical moisturisers found everywhere in today’s beauty
industry can clog pores and aggravate skin conditions. If it’s organic extra virgin olive oil it is hell of a lot better for you than your current chemical infused classic moisturisers. Dry Skin Mask: Coconut Oil and Avocado Face Mask Both Coconut Oil and Avocado have highly hydrating properties, both perfect for dry winter skin! How to: Take ¼ of your avocado and mash it up in a bowl, add a tablespoon of coconut oil (if solid melt beforehand) then blend together into a paste. Apply to a clean face, again this mask works perfectly when left on for 15 minutes but the longer the better as it will penetrate deeper into the skin. Wash
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off and if needed follow up with your moisturiser. Ingredients: Âź Avocado: Avocado is a superfood rich in healthy fat, natural oils and anti-oxidants of vitamin E. This hydrates and nourishes skin cells. Avocados also contain anti-inflammatory properties which is perfect for very irritated dry skin - taking away the redness. Tablespoon of Coconut Oil: Coconut oil contains fatty acids such as capric acid, caprylic acid, lauric acid and other antioxidants that condition, repair and nourish skin cells. They deeply penetrate skin pores, hydrating, and lubricating dry skin cells. Apart from the immediate effects coconut oil provides, it also
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protects skin from free radical damage. This is the reason coconut oil is considered the natural beauty necessity. How to use all 3 Masks Together Face Mapping: Although these masks work perfectly on their own, many of us have multiple skin issues. Some areas of our faces may be plagued with oily acne prone skin, whereas other areas can get particularly dry, this is where face mapping comes in! What is face mapping? In simple terms, face mapping is dividing the landscape of your face into zones. For example, most people’s experience oily skin in their T zone region, hormonal breakouts in the chin
region and often dry skin around the cheeks. These three masks can be applied together at different regions of the face you feel suits you best! Meeting your skin needs for dry areas as well as oily areas! Perfect, natural way to achieving the current skincare craze! Also, if you have any leftovers of the mask but them in little containers in your fridge and use up to week! Affordable way to answer your skincare worries. Ingredients can be added or taken away from these super simple masks it is up to you to you to experiment what works for your skin best! But I hope this natural solution allows you to see easy alternatives to harmful chemical pervaded products!
enswear fashion in the Nordic countries is all about modern clean lines and a simple yet cool aesthetic. Taking inspiration from the likes of Scandi-cool brand Acne with its clean silhouettes and sophisticated tailoring, and Norse Projects, the brand to showcase young yet traditional Scandinavian street wear, we have created a look book style photo shoot to recreate understated Nordic fashion. The look is all
about muted colours such as cream (no ‘s’), navy and black, which work for any occasion effortlessly, and simple clean lines – nothing too slouchy or too tight. The Nordic look also calls out for traditional knitwear as they’re accustomed to colder weather up there – you can find simple yet stylish knitted jumpers almost anywhere, from vintage shops to charity shops, high street brands such as H&M, online shops such as ASOS and even
your granddad’s wardrobe. Perhaps the most notably Nordic piece you can embrace is the Fair Isle jumper – jumpers which are made up of five or six colours that create a colourful pattern and have that traditional Nordic look, which looks great in the colder months and work well with layering. Complete your look with a smart blazer or a cool fur-lined jacket, and don’t over-accessorize – this is all about the understated simplicity.
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Styled by: Mariah Colbourne & Francesca Giove Photography: Lucie Andrau Model: Eliot Prior
Rhys Baker discusses the death of subcultures and explores its ultimate and surprising saviour – thrift culture. Brighton-based fashion is endlessly in a state of fluctuation, always changing, breaking off, and reviving with a fresh take on the subcultures and trends of former eras. From Green Party supporting hippies in their fisherman travel pants - to the newly imported grime kids and
that offer clothes for sale by the bag instead of by the brand. As well as being an attractive sales technique, it also forces the shopper to dig through boxes & boxes of antiquity - sharing and discovering portions of fashion history. This notion of rummaging through piles of clothes brings UK thrift culture closer to its American origins of 'thrifting' through large departmental charity shops. As a generation, it seems we
Everything I am is Second-Hand roadmen in their all black tracksuits, Brighton seems to maintain a harmony of eclectic and paradoxical fashion without creating a rift (except of course if you are talking about mods and rockers). It is this balance that makes Brighton's fashion consciousness unique to any other city in the UK. In the last couple of years, Brighton and the rest of the country has seen a surge in thrift culture - charged by a huge rise in the number of bargain warehouses
have abandoned subcultures, instead embracing a hybridization of fashion. Subcultures and the style they affiliated, were tribal markings for young people - displaying proudly and audaciously what music you listen to, your values, your beliefs. In order for that subculture to survive, it needed to retain its authenticity and credibility, but in today's modern society, it is this core that has been lost. With our clothes and possessions
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being more dispensable than ever, fashion and subcultures are denied the time to grow and mature organically. The blame is easily placed on the Internet, with trends exploding and dying over the course of a weekend existing as only a microcosm; it's hard for young people to invest in any form of contemporary culture. The internet is yet to birth a genuine subculture (health Goth and Normcore do not count - are they still even around?) - and it's because we have instant access to everything and anything online - we don't need to dedicate or want to discipline ourselves to one singular trend.
has, it's no wonder it is the sound of today's British youth.
Grime, however, is maybe the only anomaly. Growing slowly and steadily in East-London estates and on pirate radio stations, it was allowed the time flourish naturally before the culture was exposed nationally, and even now internationally. Unlike other contemporary trends that dominate life today, Grime existed in a time before the globalized Internet, when social media and Google algorithms were in their infancy. It organically grew and authenticated its substance - always there, lurking in the background. With it being the closest thing to punk my generation
Today's youth has lost the rigidity and identity that subcultures used to embody - the abandoning of these labels have lead us to adopt the singular subculture of our times - the homogenous hipster. Post-modernism and neo-liberalism have both contributed to this conformity. It is sadly our last means of expression - adapting and remodelling subcultures of the past - and is our utmost eagerness to be different, so embrace it.
Despite contributing to its deterioration, thrift culture is the last and unlikely saviour of subcultures. Although it reappropriates and merges staples from the past, thrifting also allows us to create a common culture - by bringing together opposing symbolism and styles. Post-punk pioneers such as Joy Division and The Cure could never have of imaged that Goth culture would evolve and permeate rap, with artists such as Kanye West and Rihanna incorporating it into their style - such as ghetto gothic.