Sutura Style Fall 2015 by Sutura Style

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MEET THE KINGS OF COTTON

HOLIDAY GLAMOUR FROM

CAROLINA HERRERA

Sewing Style Denim Skirts

Fall Fabric Trends Check out our picks

Quick Couture Add a Dash of Style in Minutes

Inside Matters A Sewer’s Guide to Interfacing

TEXTILES “Independence It’s in Our Jeans” Story Page 22

Cover Photo: Ovidiu Hrubaru / Shutterstock.com

Inside this Issue Serger Style Choosing a Five Thread Machine Page 4

Featured Article Meet The Kings of Cotton Page 10

Quilting Love Without Borders

Elegance & Glamour Carolina Herrera’s Gorgeous Gowns

Page 15 Page 15

Embroidery Corner Up-style jeans into fun skirts.

Quick Couture Easy Shawls for Fall Page 36

Page 24

COMING November 2015

The U80 Wedding Dress From a T-Shirt to a Wedding Dress UNDER $80

UNDER 80 MINUTES ON A SERGER

Look for the new video at www.suturastyle.com, November 2015.

SERGE LIKE A PRO

Choosing a Five Thread Serger

Fall Machine Reviews: Sergers and Overlock Machines The words are synonymous; Serger and Overlock

chase. But online reviews do not replace experi-

Machine. Yet my spell check doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t like either

ence so I visited several dealers to try various

term. I need to teach my PC to sew.

brands. The results were pretty surprising.

Picking a new serger/overlock machine can be an

When making a decision, one needs to bear in

intimidating process. These machines start at

mind that there are several manufacturers to

around $500 so itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no small investment in your

choose from and they all have at least one ma-

sewing room. With that much (and up to $2000)

chine that has great reviews. However, there are

on the line it is no wonder that so many people

names that seem to stand out from the crowd for

seek out the advice of those who already own one. consistently delivering a solid machine. These Pattern Review.com is a great website

brands include Singer, Juki, Pfaff and, of course,

(http://sewing.patternreview.com)â&#x20AC;˘that features

BabyLock. Since budget is a primary concern for

thousands of reviews for sewing machines, serg-

most prosumers, the machines are presented in

ers and patterns. It was my one-stop place to read categories based upon average retail price. about machines when it came time to make a pur4

INTRODUCING THE UNDER $600

SERGERS

Five-thread sergers have the ability to create the Safety Stitch most often found in Ready to Wear apparel. These machines really deliver a professional finish. Each machine has a score out of 5 for the major features to make comparison easier.

Speed and Power: 1300 s.p.m. and decent piercing power. Score: 3.5/5

Strength: I made this separate from power because although the machine is very powerful, the presser foot does not lift up very high so you can’t get the full strength out of the machine. Score: 3/5

Built-in Stitches: Double Chain Stitch, 2-Thread Wrapped Edge Overlock, 2-Thread Overlock, 3Thread Overlock, 3-Thread Ultra-Stretch Mock Safety Stitch, 4-Thread Ultra-Stretch Mock Safety Stitch, 4-Thread Safety Stitch, 5-Thread Safety Stitch (Wide & Narrow), Cover Hem Stitch (Wide & Narrow), Triple Cover Hem Stitch, 3- Thread Rolled Hem. While this machine is really loaded for the price, I’m docking 1.5 points because it it a bit of work to change from serger mode to cover stitch. Score: 3.5/5

Singer Pro 5 14T968DC

Flexibility: With 6 feet out of the box the Singer Pro 5 •14T968DC is all set to do a multitude of cool tasks. Additionally, the clear view feet from any Viking dealer fit this machine so the possibilities are fantastic. For affordable attachments (the same attachments are over $300 for the Janome 900 and 1000 CX machines) and flexibility, this machine really rocks. Score: 5/5 Threading Method: Manual. This is the biggest complaint from other owners of this machine. Actually, it seems relatively easy compared to some of the older serger models, as the Pro 5 features automatic lower looper and cover looper threading. Still, I can’t discount the frustration reported in several reviews. Score: 3/5 Price: This machine comes with 6 feet

Tension: Automatic tension. I haven’t sewn anything that caused me to need to adjust this but other owners have struggled with heavy fabrics. I believe this to be less of a tension problem and more of a space problem. Score: 4/5

and goes for $419 at Amazon .com. When it comes to price, it can’t be beat.

Juki MO-655

The Juki MO-655 Courtesy of Juki International Inc.

The Juki MO-655 is visually closest lock, 3-Thread Narrow Overlock,

Speed and Power: 1500 stitches per

to an industrial serger, with front

3-Thread Overlock, 3-Thread

minute and great piercing power.

dials and a flat tension face. Here’s

Rolled Hem, 2-Thread Rolled Hem, It’s a Juki. It’s a beast. Score: 5/5

how it added up.

2-Thread Overcast. Score 3.5/5

Strength: The extra high lift on the

Price: If you want to really get the

Flexibility: With 8 feet included,

foot gives you full access to all the

best bang for the buck then

this machine has all the expansion

machine can do. Score: 5/5

Allbrands.com has it for $599 with all 8 feet, a carry case, 100 organ

capabilities most sewers will use on All, in all this is a great machine for a overlock machine. The big negathe money except that it doesn’t do

needles for the machine, the elec-

tive here is that is does not do a

tronic workbook and a 10 year war- cover stitch so many of the stitches

any cover stitches. If you predominantly sew woven fabrics, or are

rantee from the dealer which is a lot that can be done on other machines willing to invest in a separate cover better than 30 days from Ama- zon in this category are inaccessible. hem machine, this might be the best .com. When it comes to price, this

Score: 3.5/5

is a great value.

Threading: Manual. The Juki has a

buy for you.

Built In Stitches: 2-Thread Chain

The other machine in this category looper release mechanism making it is the BabyLock Diana. The few reslightly easier to thread than traviews I was able to find show this to

Stitch, 5-Thread Safety Stitch, 4-

ditional sergers. Score: 3.5/5

Thread Overlock, 3-Thread Flat

be a reliable machine. Pity it’s so hard to find.

HuskyLock S21

Five Thread Sergers under $1000

The Huskylock S21 and the Pfaff 3.0 are essentially the same machine, rebranded. Singer, Pfaff and Viking are all part of SVP Worldwide

Flexibility: There are numerous feet and attachments

which is now owned by a private equity firm, Kohlberg for these two machines giving owners optimal flexibili& Company. So, presser feet are interchangeable on all ty. Pity the extra feet are also an extra purchase. three brands. The HuskyLock and the Pfaff 3.0 go for

Score: 4/5

around $899-$999. When I went to demo one at the

Threading: The same as the Singer but with the ability

Viking store I was quoted $1099. Perhaps a little

to open the left side of the machine bed. Score: 4/5

negotiating can help. The additional space to the right

Speed and Power: 1300 s.p.m. and good piercing pow-

of the needle is sweet and the extension table adds

er. Score: 5/5

stability. Strength: The presser foot lift is still lower than other Price: At double the price of the comparitive Singer,

machines. Score: 2.5/5

buyers should shop around to get the best price. If you can negotiate a good warrantee, free classes and

Remember that a good warrantee adds enormous

get some cool feet thrown in, then these machines are a

value. Score: 3/5 - 4.5/5 (depending on warrantee)

sweet deal. Built In Stitches: All the same stitches as the Singer Pro 5. Score 5/5 7

This is Juki’s top of the line 5 thread domestic serger. And it has gotten some of the best reviews online – for very good reasons. Top of the list? It is a Juki, and thus extremely powerful. Reviews consistently recorded the ability to handle pretty much anything you can throw at it as a huge plus. Price: Squeezing in at $999.00 online the MO-755 is the top priced machine in this category. Flexibility: The 8 feet for the MO-655 also fit this machine and a smart negotiator will either get them thrown in or try to get a discount to purchase them for under $100. The really cool thing is that some of the accessories for Juki’s industrial cover stitch machines fit this model so you can save big bucks when it comes time to stock up on all the little extras. Score: 5/5 Threading: Manual – lay in. The 7 series Juki also has a looper release mechanism making it fairly easy to thread once you get the hang of it. The

Tension: Manual. Score: 3.5/5

seam, wide/narrow, 3-thread superstretch, 3-thread flatlock seam, 3-

Speed and Power: 1500 stitches per

thread Blank Stitch, wide/narrow,

minute and great piercing power.It’s

3-thread rolled seam, 3-thread rolled

a Juki. It’s a beast. Juki has packed

hem, 2-thread overlock seaM,

some of their renowned industrial

wide/narrow, 2-thread flatlock seam, power into this machine. Score: 5/5 wide/narrow, 2-thread rolled hem. Score: 5/5 Strength: The extra high lift on the foot gives you full access to all the machine can do. Score: 5/5

If Juki had thrown in air threading this would be my pick. As it stands,

big deal is – again – switching

Stitches: 4-thread coverstitch, wide

you’ll get great value for what you’ve

from cover stitch to serger.

(5.0 mm), 3-thread coverstitch, (5.0

paid based on the glowing reviews.

Score: 4/5

mm/2.5mm), 2-thread chainstitch, 5-thread safety seam, wide 4-thread overlock seam, 3-thread overlock 8

0 0 1 $ r e Ov

BabyLock S e

ts the Pace

The BabyLock Evolution can use up to 8 threads and boasts 87 stitches. If you are in the Indianapolis area and want to try a BabyLock, Jim and Karen Bennett at Select Sewing Service are happy to help. The store is located at 2415 E 65th St. Indianapolis. 317-255-6332

Think of BabyLock as the Mercedes Benz of sergers. The top of the line Evolution, with 8-thread capability, features ExtraordinAir, that threads the machine for you with a gust of air. A cool perk if you don’t mind spending the extra cash.

You can also chain stitch off the fabric and it has auto tension release for the threads. Score: 5/5

Threading: ExtraordinAir. Owners rave about it. I don’t blame them. Juki now has a similar feature on their four thread MO-1000, but BabyLock had it first and if the Price: Closing in on $2000 these reviews are anything to go by, they machines are well out of the reach of many sewers but owner’s say that still do it best. Score: 5/5 BabyLock machines are worth it. Tension: Automatic tension. I Built-in Stitches: 87 stitch functions haven’t sewn anything that caused including the wave stitch. Machines me to need to adjust this but other in the lower price ranges have owners have struggled with heavy fabrics. Score: 4/5 specialty feet that deliver a wavy stitch for dance costumes but lack Speed and Power: 1500 stitches per the BabyLock thread delivery system which reportedly delivers minute and great piercing power. perfect stitches everytime. With 87 Score: 5/5 stitches BabyLock wins this category hands down. Score 5/5 Strength: No problems reported by owners in reviews that I read. Flexibility: It can cover stitch and Score: 5/5 overlock at the same time. Need I say more? The accessories can be really pricey - just like the parts for a In the end, I was surprised to performance vehicle. That said, it is discover that I wanted to buy the well worth it if you have made the Singer Pro 5, although I had set investment in your machine. Many aside a budget to purchase the Pfaff reviews share the joy of using one of 3.0 or 4.0. In lieu of buying 1 the 24 attachments available. machine that can do it all, I chose to purchase 2. My sewing room is 9

now home to a new 4 thread serger from Juki and the Singer Pro 5. The Singer is used strictly for cover hem work and 5-thread safety stitching, while the Juki is reserved for working with knits as a 4 thread. Despite my personal choice, I would caution readers that buying from Amazon instead of a local dealer has it’s own pitfalls. As mentioned previously, it is hard to place value on peace of mind and a good warrantee. Working with a local dealership can ensure that there is support available long after your purchase. Additionally, there are usually new owner lessons offered with the purchase of a new machine. Whether you prefer shopping online or local, shopping for a new serger is a little like shopping for a car. There are different brands available at a variety of price points. So, if you are in the market for a new five thread, the best advice is to take your time. Shop around and try as many machines as you can. Five thread overlock machines are finicky and need to be a good fit with their owners. Bonding with them can take time so try to be patient once you get yours home.

MEET THE KINGS OF

COTTON

Quilting Ca

the o t t i s i AV

pital of the

World

The anticipation had been building for months. A road trip to Paducah was in the works and I was as excited as a kid waiting for Christmas.

U.S. at least once per year and a

retail outlet for cotton goods in the

trip to Paducah , KY is a new tradi-

US. And it is breathtaking to be-

tion for us. With the folks now in

hold. If I were to try to describe the

their seventies, it is a tradition that

feeling I get when I walk in, it

I will cherish for as long as we can

would sound something like, “su-

July 10, 2015

keep it up. After checking into our

per-awesome-gigantic-enormous-

hotel, we head over to Hancock’s of

cotton-wonderland”. We each grab

Paducah, the largest fabric store in

a buggy and Mum warns me to,

the area. Indeed, at 36,000 square

“stick to your budget!”. Budget?

feet under roof, it is also the largest

What is that? I am in Wonderland.

The six hour drive from Whitestown, Indiana flew by as I caught up with my parents. They visit the

Despite my best efforts, I was unable capture the whole sales floor in one photo. This about 30% of the store.

Did Alice have a budget? How

am still collecting fabrics for two

and beach wear, men’s apparel and

much? Giggling, I stroll away and

bed quilts. No timeline on the

stuff for the kids. It’s all here, at a

begin indulging my tactile instincts

quilts, but look for tutorials on

place that is often relegated

by touching every piece of fabric

projects one and two at

exclusively to quilters. My creativity

that catches my eye.

www.suturaclub.com.

takes flight and my mental sketch

Despite my giggles, experience has

Cotton is by far, America’s favorite

pad gets a real workout. Yeah, I am

taught me that when visiting the

natural fiber. Most of us wear it

going to stick to the budget, but who

Kings of Cotton, I need to have

everyday (think knickers here) and

says that I can’t come back this Fall?

projects in mind, else my bank

all sewers know that it is one thing

Trip to Paducah anyone?

account will be weeping. The first of to view fabrics online and quite these, is a request from my

another to see them in person. The

Finished with my own shopping, I

husband, Steve. He wants me to

feel of the cotton is a major

try to help Mumsie complete her

make covers for the handles of our appliances; the sight of fingerprints drives him nuts. Project two is a triple duty wall hanging. I have long had it in my mind to create a wall quilt that can look great on one side and

deciding factor for

“I feel like Alice in me. All the fabric Wonderland when here is first quality, I visit Hancock’s high thread-count of Paducah. It’s cotton, ideal for like a trip to quilts. It is also Mecca, an perfect for home experience every decor, and garments. Though I am keeping sewer should have at least once my projects in mind, as I explore the vast in a lifetime”

function as my

array, I see

mission to find yellow fabric with tiny dots (for the center of flowers she’s making a Baltimore Album Quilt) and orange cotton that would do well for petals. As I stroll the aisles, I wonder about the history of the company. Mr. Hancock (referred to fondly as Mr. H by staff) is in store as his son, Justin. A few questions and a little digging reveal a incredible story of hard work, courage and determination. This

design board on the other, all while

pretty spring dresses and cool,

family truly epitomizes the

covering my bookcases. Finally, I

comfortable skirts. Lounge wear,

American Dream.

Hancock’s of Paducah Timeline 1952

Dorothy Hancock, a war-bride from the UK, & husband William open Hancock Fabric Center at Batesville, Mississippi.

1955 William’s brother, L.D. Hancock, begins selling fabric to dry goods stores under the name Hancock Textiles. His company blossomed into the fabric store chain Hancock Fabrics 1962 Tragedy strikes the family and William Hancock passes away. Dorothy courageously continues to run the shop as a wholesale customer of Hancock Fabrics and raises sons Rowland and Rodney in the textile business. 1969 Rowland Hancock moves to Paducah Kentucky on the advice of his uncle, L.D. and opens Hancock Fabrics with retail area of 15,000 square feet.

Today, Hancock’s of Paducah ships to customers in 72 countries worldwide. The store boasts 36,000 square feet under roof.

1986 Rowland Hancock moves his business to a new facility with 30,000 square feet, making it the world’s largest retail selection of fabrics. The store changes names to Hancock’s of Paducah to avoid confusion with Hancock Fabrics and the American Quilt Society held it’s first show at Paducah. 1990

The AQS Show has grown and as a result Rowland offers a mail order service for attendees who were unable to purchase all that they wanted at the show.

1992 Justin Hancock joined the family business after completing his MBA. Ten years later, Blann Hancock followed suit. Together with their father, Justin and Blann have adapted Hancock's of Paducah into a modern multi-channel business. Source: Hancock’s of Paducah website: http://www.hancocks-paducah.com/About-Us Hancock’s of Paducah is located at 3841 Hinkleville Road, Paducah, KY US Customers: 1.800.845.8723 12

SHOP ‘TIL YOU DROP Once you’ve explored the sales floor, don’t leave out the warehouse, at the back. Here shoppers will find cardboard boxes that hide a treasure trove of yummy pre-packaged goods; Jelly Rolls and Layer Cakes, Bali Crackers and more. On the way there, the hand of experience is vividly displayed as one strolls through the home decor aisles, Somebody has ensured that all the fabric coordinates well with the quilting cotton. And one of those Somebodies is on hand to help with your choices.

Meet Justin Hancock In 1992, Justin Hancock joined the family business upon completing a Masters in Business Administration at the Owen School at Vanderbilt University. He has played an instrumental role in helping the company transition from a retail store to a multichannel, internationally known operation. Like his father, Justin can be found on the sales floor of Hancock’s of Paducah most days. 13

Featured Pattern: Vogue 8808 sewn up of Choice Mottled Vine Ruby Red 108” cotton from Hancock’s of Paducah.

Cotton transitions beautifully into Fall, especially when it is layered. Add a cozy longsleeve top and summer maxi dresses can give deliver extra fashion mileage.

FALL FLARE

Batiks and prints have been available in super wide widths for quite a while, yet are often relegated to the back of a quilt. Garment sewers will find that this oft overlooked 108” wide fabric can be transformed into beautiful styles for the wardrobe. Cottons can look dressy or casual, depending on how the outfit is accented with accessories and shoes. So, if you are thinking of visiting Paducah, I would encourage you to think outside the block, these cottons are for every sewer, not just quilters.

Love Without Borders

Refugees flee from situations that most Americans canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t even begin to imagine, yet no other country does more for those in desperate need. So, when a group of newcomers arrived in Indianapolis, it was all the more touching to bea ble to offer gifts of handmade quilts from Canada for new arrivals to USA.

weather - barefoot. Thanks to the hard work and compassion of the Exodus Refugee program, the love of wonderful people from various churches, and the kindness of our cousins to the North, This particular story begins with a Pastor these families now have new homes, new being shot for the sake of the Gospel in the lives and soon, some brand new quilts. Congo, reaches deep into the hearts of people around the world and ends here in It only took a short phone call to Mom, Indianapolis with families arriving in cold who quickly alerted her quilting group located in Kelowna, British Columbia,

Canada. The group, known for their kindness to fellow Canadians amidst times of trial, was swift to respond with the beautiful quilt tops showcased on the following page. This lovely piecework is now in the hands of volunteers here in the US who will quilt the tops and get them into the hands of new families. A truly international effort for a very good cause.

Student Spotlight NADINE TULEJA Sew LIke a Pro Course 1 Nadine was awarded a Certificate of Completion and a straight stitch foot for staying straight on course.

Practice makes perfect Nadine used the same pattern for three tops and finished the neckline and armhole using three different methods learned during Course 1. The black top features a bias turned neckline and armhole, the blue has a facing and the green has a stitch and turned neckline.Well done Nadine and congratulations!

LEARN TO SEW FOR THE HOME Spruce up your home with easy projects in time for the Holidays. Get together with fellow sewers as you learn how to make simple yet elegant styles for the home. In class we will cover how to make cushions, pillow slips, panel curtains, duvet covers and even learn Natalie Reiners method for making Designer Quillows! Visit us online for details.

ÂŠ Michael Higginson | Dreamstime.com

Holiday Style

Carolina Herrera

There are two ways to becoming a great designer. Start great, and stay great.

eason

after season

veteran designer Carolina Herrera

delivers collections that are both fresh and timeless. The Autumn collection for 2015 is as stunning in its simple lines as it is breathtaking in its beauty. The influence of water, snow and ice, even geophysical elements such as mountains can be seen. The silhouettes are gently curved with simple necklines drawing the focus to the face of the wearer - as it should be.

ELEGANT. TIMELESS. STYLE.

Rippling fabric is reminiscent of a flowing river (left), while suspended silver discs bring snowflakes to mind.

Sequins are back in style and are swirling like flowing water on this simple dress

Photographs: Ovidiu Hrubaru / Shutterstock.com

Independence r u o n i It’s

Jeans Denim jeans are quintessentially American. The style we still recognize today was patented by Jacob Davis and Levi Strauss on May 20, 1873.

That most beloved of fabrics was originally developed in Nimes, France. The french phase for “from Nimes” is “de Nimes” hence our word, denim. However, it was not until the 1950’s that blue jeans became popular as a clothing style and the world market has been growing ever since. According to Cotton Inc., more than 9 out of 10 consumers in the USA have purchased denim jeans and individuals own an average of seven pairs. That is a lot of denim! Conscious of the amount of fabric being used, Cotton Inc launched a recycling program in 2011, “from Blue to Green”, which allows people to send in their worn denim, which will then be given a “new life” by being converted into environmentally-friendly UltraTouchTM Denim Insulation, and contributed to communities in need. In the Spirit of Independence, I was taught “use it up, wear it out, make it do, or do without”. So, before getting rid of a pair of jeans, here are some ideas for restyling them. 1) Jean shorts - remember Daisy Duke? Not your style? How about just cutting them off at a longer length and turn up the hem. 2) Downsize. Make adult jeans into trousers for little people. 3) Try making a skirt using the tutorial found on the following pages. 23

Photo Credits: 1)© Hughstoneian | Dreamstime.com © Chiyacat | Dreamstime.com

Upstyle Denim Skirts Get the kids involved in this fun project. Find old pairs of jeans and turn them into denim skirts for Back to School Style that is easy on the budget.

ÂŠ Anatoliy Samara | Dreamstime.com

Skirt

Skirt Conversion This tutorial is from emblibrary.com and is used with permission. Dress up your wardrobe and recycle an old pair of jeans by turning them into a trendy skirt! Customize this skirt to your liking by adding your favorite embroidery designs paired with coordinating colors and fabric. Read below for these free project instructions.

Supplies Needed: **Fabric for inset - 1/2 yard for a mid-thigh or knee length skirt, or 1 yard for an ankle length skirt (we used brocade fabric) **Medium weight cutaway stabilizer

**Temporary spray adhesive

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Skirt

**Air-erase pen (or other marking tool) **Seam ripper **Tape measure **Heavy sewing thread (match colors to jean seams)

Designs used: A Pretty in Paisley Design Pack - Sm These designs are also available in a large design pack: A Pretty in Paisley Design Pack - Lg

To begin, decide what length you would like the skirt to be. We made the length on our skirt just below the knee (measure down about 24 to 26 inches from the bottom of the waist band). Take that measurement, add 1 1/2 inches (for seam allowance) and measure and mark down the outer seam on each leg starting at the bottom of the waist band.

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Skirt

Draw a horizontal line across each pant leg using the marks you just made. Then, cut along the lines.

Using a seam ripper, open the inner seams on each pant leg up to the crotch. Then, open the seams further about 2 inches up from the crotch on the front and about 2 1/2 inches on the back.

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Skirt

Trim away about 1/2 inch from the raw edges on the back side of the pant legs.

Create paper templates of the designs by printing them at full size using embroidery software. If you don't have embroidery software, you can cut a piece of paper the shape and dimensions of the design to help with placement and centering. Place the templates on the fabric where you would like them. Using an air-erase pen (or other marking tool) poke a hole in the center and mark the fabric. Then, mark the horizontal and vertical axis points as well.

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Skirt

Remove the templates and draw lines to connect the axis points. These lines will be used for hooping.

Spray a piece of cutaway stabilizer with adhesive and smooth the fabric on top. Hoop the fabric and stabilizer together by aligning the marks on the hoop with the lines on the fabric. Attach the hoop to the machine and load the design. Move the hoop so that the needle is directly over the center point on the fabric. Embroider the design.

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Skirt

When the design has finished, trim away the excess stabilizer on the back of the embroidery.

Repeat the steps above to add any additional designs you'd like.

Lay the jeans flat with the front facing up. Overlap the right seam over the left seam at the crotch and pin in place. Using heavy sewing thread, sew in place by following the original seam paths.

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Skirt

Now, flip the jeans over and lay them flat. On the left side at the crotch, fold the raw edge of the fabric in 1/2 inch to the wrong side. Then, overlap the left seam over the right seam and pin in place. Sew in place along the original seam paths.

Lay the jeans flat with the front side facing up. Cut a piece of fabric large enough to cover the triangular area in between the side seams of the pant legs with at least 2 inches excess/ overlap. Insert the fabric under the side seams and pin in place.

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Skirt

Sew in place by following the original seam paths on the side seams.

Turn the jeans inside out. Fold the raw edges of the back pant legs in 1/2 inch to the wrong side and press with an iron.

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Skirt

Then, turn the jeans right side out and cut another piece of fabric large enough to cover the triangular area in between the folded edges of the back pant legs with at least 2 inches of excess/overlap. Insert the fabric under the folded edges of the pant legs and pin in place. Sew a 1/4 inch seam along the inner edges of the folded jean fabric. Turn the skirt inside out and trim away the excess inset fabric, leaving about 1/2 inch excess.

To create the bottom hem, fold the entire bottom edge of the skirt 1/2 inch to the wrong side and press.

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Skirt

Fold the bottom edge in another 1/2 inch to the wrong side and press. Pin in place, turn the skirt right side out, and sew a 1/4 inch seam along the entire bottom edge of the skirt. The skirt is now complete!

Would you like to learn how to make your own custom fit jeans and denim skirts? Take the Just Jeans Workshop! October 2, 2015 5:30-8:30 pm. For more details visit the website at www.suturastyle.com

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Sutura Home Style Decorating your home is fun, easy and very rewarding. Learn how to make: ● ● ● ● ● ●

Cushions and Pillow Slips Duvet Covers Panel Curtains Designer Quillows Decorated Towels Simple Organizers

AUTUMN COLORS This season look for rich tones sharply contrasted against pale gray, white and black. Textured stripes and metalics. And sequins are back. Hello ‘80s. Nice to see you again.

When You’re In the Mood Challenging yourself can be a great motivator, especially when the reward is a custom made outfit.

Mood Fabrics, of Project Runway fame, has been a source for designer fabrics for decades. When the production season is over (now) fabric remnants are sold off at reasonable prices. This is a great opportunity for fashionistas to make a custom 36

sewn garment, from the same fabric that prét-â-porter houses use. I had the chance to snap up some DKNY knit for a remarkable $10/yard and am thrilled with my new dress. When shopping for upscale fabrics online, always request a swatch if you are unsure of the color or texture. At upwards of $25/yard for designer goods, mistakes can be costly.

Quick Couture

A simple shawl can add style and warmth on cool Autumn nights.

Fold

Cutting Line

You will need: ● 2 yards of 60” wide fabric ● Dressmaker’s Shears ● Matching thread ● Measuring Tape ● Tailors Chalk or a Dressmaker’s Pencil

Finish the edges with a rolled hem

Fold the fabric in half lengthwise. Draw a cutting line from the lower edge of the fabric to the halfway point as shown. Unfold the fabric. Now, fold it in half along the crossgrain. Pin mark the fold. Open the fabric. You will have a series of pins (dotted line) where the cross fold was and a line where the first fold was, as shown. Measure your neck at the base and add 1”. Draw an oval, as shown, the size of your measurement. Use a long narrow zigzag stitch, blanket or an overedge stitch to finish all the raw edges. Trim any threads, press and enjoy!

The loopers of your serger can hold a variety of fun threads. Try Crown Pearl Rayon by YLI, or metallic threads as in the sample above. On heavier fabric, try a super-light wool in the upper looper to give your shawl a hand finished look. 37

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Inside Matters From non-woven interfacing to hair canvas, the inner construction of ag arment is what creates the final shape. Interfacing is to a sewer whatcla y is to a potter. Beautiful garments start in the inside.

Tip: Buy interfacing in bulk when it is on sale and keep it on a bolt board.

A SEWER’S GUIDE TO INTERFACING You’ve bought beautiful fabrics and a lovely pattern. You’re all set to sew, right? Maybe not. Expert sewers know that the inside of the garment counts as much as the outside, sometimes more. Do you have the right interfacing? The best way to know is to try a variety of products with different fabrics and see what feels best to you. Here are 22 different types of interfacing that are used for garment construction. If you would like a set of samples, they can be ordered from wawak.com. The photos are taken at 8 X zoom to make it easier to see the details. 1. Fusible Tricot Black 2. Fusible Sheer Tricot 3. Hair Canvas 5. Firm-Up

(sew-in)

4. Med. Fusible Gray 6. Hair Canvas

(fusible)

7. Fashion Fuse

8. Heavy Flannel

9. Light Fusible

10. Sew-In Heavy

11. Med. Fusible

12. Tailor Pro Fuse

(sew-in)

13. Heavy Fuse Black 14. Med. Fuse Black 15. Dura-fuse

16. Shirt Fuse

Fashion Fuse (above, left) is a woven interfacing that works well for many garment applications. Weft Insertion Fuse (above, right) is ideal for knits.

11 12

WOVEN & KNIT INTERFACING

NON-WOVEN INTERFACING

Silk Organza (Not shown)

While the only rule for interfacing is use what works best, a general guide is to use woven and knit interfacing for woven and knit fabrics. Non-woven interfacing is usually best for crafts and accessories.

SPECIALIZED NON-WOVEN INTERFACING

Fusible Web

Tear Away Stabilizer

Sew In Batting

Fusible Batting

The

Right Threads

The number one cause of machine failure according to veteran machine tech, Jack Watts, is a build up of lint in the machine left there by both the fabric and the thread.

Choosing the right thread for your sewing project can be difficult with so many choices. When selecting thread for sewing clothing, 100% polyester, all-purpose thread is the best choice to start with. As your sewing repertoire increases, knowledge of other thread fibers and types will become necessary. Here is an introduction to the four

major thread fibers.

Generally, when selecting threads, match the thread fiber content to that of your fabric. For example, when sewing natural fibers such as silk, rayon and cotton, use cotton thread.

A Basic Guide to Threads

General Sewing Threads

C�� Cotton thread is available in a series of weights, finishes and plies. It is ideally suited to generalpurpose sewing on cotton, silk or rayon fabric, quilting, and decorative top stitching. The main advantages of using cotton thread are that it will shrink with your garment, and is soft enough not to tear natural fibers.

P�� Use 100% polyester thread for sewing clothing, lightuse home décor projects, and with an Overlock Machine. The strong, smooth fibers will last through many years of use and cleaning without shrinking. Lustrous machine embroidery thread is also made out of polyester and is often preferred for its high tensile strength over Rayon.

R�� Rayon thread is best known for the depths of color and the lustrous sheen that can be achieved. This thread is best used for decorative projects, satin stitching and machine embroidery. It can also be used for fancy buttonholes or basting in place of silk.

N�� The most versatile of all man made thread fibers, nylon can be either transparent and thin or heavy and textured. When made as a single ply thread, it can be so thin as to appear invisible. Use transparent nylon for creating invisible hems. Bulky or “wooly” nylon is a textured thread that is used with a coverhem stitch made with a Cover Stitch Machine.

T�� W�� & P�� The thread weight system uses metric as a means of measurement. Generally, in the United States, thread weight is denoted in one or more ways as shown: 1) 50 wt. 2) 50/3

3) Size 50

4) Tex 50

The example above uses 50-weight cotton quilting thread to illustrate how the weight information may appear on the thread label. Lower numbers indicate heavier thread. The weight of the thread is determined by the number of meters needed to obtain one gram of thread. So, the 50 weight thread example means that 50 meters of thread equals 1 gram. A ply refers to a single strand of fiber, such as cotton, that is spun to create thread. Threads used for home sewing consist of 1-3 plies. Since it is not mandatory to declare the thread weight, or the number of plies on the label, shopping for thread can be confusing. Below is a basic chart to help you with your thread selections.

Project

Thread Weight

Thread Plies

Tex

General Sewing

40 wt

Heirloom Sewing

50 wt

15-23

Serger/Overlock

40 wt

27 Polyester/24-30 Nylon

Machine Embroidery

40 wt

Quilting

50 wt

Home Décor

20-30 wt

30-60

Bobbins

60 wt

Serger & Overlock Threads I first discovered the glories of using an Overlock Machine (Serger today) years ago, when I attended High School. I was blessed to attend a school where a Fashion Arts Program was available for Sophomores and Seniors and it was there that I was able to try a serger. I wanted one so badly that I went to every shop that was selling them to see if I could get one for a good price but had no luck. I waited 5 long years to finally make my purchase and was so thrilled to finally be able to do the kind of seam finishes that were on good quality ReadyTo-Wear apparel. Serger thread is designed to function well at high speeds and is usually polyester or polyester wrapped with either a cotton or polyester core. Good quality serger thread is thin, generally Tex 27, smooth and strong. It comes in hundreds of colors. Although the prices are quite reasonable, selecting the first few cones can be quite a daunting prospect. Fortunately, the Singer Sewing Reference Library (now out of print) has some advice that is as valuable today as it was then. "Blending thread colors allows stitches to blend easily with fabric. It is not always necessary to use a thread color that matches the fabric, and you may even blend several shades in the same seam. A supply of serger threads should include colors that blend easily, such as ivory, gray or rose. Threads in the primary colors of red, yellow and blue do not blend with many colors of fabric. If you have only one spool of matching thread, use it in the needle at the seam line, and use colors that blend for the other threads." (loopers) Over the years I have found that, in addition to rose, lilac and blue are wonderful colors to have on hand. Both shades blend nicely with a variety of hues. Using the Thread Blending Principle as a guide, my collection of overlock threads has grown very slowly indeed, there are still only 16 colors in my studio. The guiding principle behind thread blending is to use the pastel shade of the three primary colors (magenta, cyan and yellow) with the neutrals, (black and white) and the neutral pastel, gray. To blend threads, use a good quality sewing thread in the needle. Remember, this is the seam so it needs to be stitched with the same care and thread quality as sewing on a regular sewing machine. On the loopers, choose one or more colors that blend in (but obviously won't match) with your fabric. If you have a print, pick the dominant colors in the pattern and then select thread that appears the least obvious against the fabric (blending). Below is a reference chart of the threads I use most commonly when teaching and in the studio. I have added red and deep beige as they blend well with colors that I sew with very often. Color

Chart Number

Blends well with:

Fibers Content

White

651

Very light colors/white

Nylon & Polyester

Black

653

Dark colors

Nylon & Polyester

Gray

680

Blue, purple, green

Nylon & Polyester

Ivory

678

Beige, taupe, yellow

Nylon & Polyester

Rose

603

Pink, lilac, coral, peach

Nylon & Polyester

Blue

659

Gray, blues, lavender

Nylon & Polyester

Deep Beige

684

Khaki, Dk taupe, Lt, Brown

Polyester

Red

612

Red, wine, fuchsia,

Polyester

Novelty Threads Playing with thread can be inspiring and a lot of fun! Thread painting, bobbin work, decorative stitches and beautiful seam edging are all possible with novelty threads. Here are a few ideas:

1) Hand wind embroidery floss onto a empty thread spool. Use it to thread the upper looper of your serger. Increase the stitch length to the maximum your machine will allow and decrease the tension. Using a three thread overlock stitch, create a beautiful edging stitch for garments and home dĂŠcor items.

2) Try Bobbin Work. Wind or hand wind heavy rayon or metallic onto the bobbin of your sewing machine. Reduce the bobbin tension and select a light, open decorative stitch or use a straight stitch. Sew with the right side down. The decorative stitching is formed with the bobbin thread.

3) Create perfect rolled hems to edge necklines, armholes and the bottom edges of athletic wear by using elastic. Although not technically a thread, it is a great notion to have on hand for cretaing a fine, professional finish. Use the rolled hem setting on a serger or a narrow satin stitch on a sewing machine to create this effect. Simply place the elastic cording along the edge of the garment. As you sew, ensure that the stitching encases the elastic, stretching it stlightly as you stitch. Tops, bralettes and more will sit smoothly on the body and move with you!

Properly! Quick tips for getting the job done right. When I came to America I was teased about how I used & pronounced the word “Properly”

The balmy days of summer are over and it is hard to stay inside and sew when Mother Nature is calling. The trees are putting on a spectacular display and I am giving Thanks early this year for so many blessings.

Take a deep breath. It is going to be okay. Here are a few steps to take to get your project back on track. 1) Remove all threads and thoroughly clean and oil your machine. The number one cause of machine failure is dust and dirt trapped in small hard to reach areas.

“Strength and dignity are her clothing, And she smiles at the future.”

Proverbs 31:25 NAS

Natalie Dawn Reiners is a sewing

2) Re-thread your machine completely with 4 different colours of thread. This will allow you to make tension adjustments even if you are frustrated. Match your thread colours to the dial colours on your machine. 3) Use new needles and a fresh blade. 4) Adjust 1 tension dial at at time. Start at about “3” on the tension and increase or decrease from there in small, quarter turn increments.

instructor , pattern designer and author of the fifteen volume Sutura Style series, “Sew Like a Pro”

5) Finally, if all else fails, bring your machine in to a qualified technician. The timing mechanism may be off or it may need new parts.

The Silk Road A Journey of Fashion and Fabric Dawn Abbey Inc 8401 Moller Road Box 681183 Indianapolis, IN 46268 Tel: (317) 559-4271 natalie@suturastyle.com www.suturastyle.com Sew Your Style

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