Sutura Style Spring 2016

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Dreams come true at Designer Sewing Center 8 South Main Street, Whitestown, Indiana, 46075 2


SPRING FASHION PREVIEW Get the look from the Catwalks of Europe and the US in your closet for less. Full story on page 41


Here We Grow

The New Year brought many changes for us at Sutura Style. The biggest one was moving into our new store, Designer Sewing Center. The transition from a home-based, solopreneurship to a retail business with things like regular hours, and team members, is an exciting, ongoing adventure. While working at home certainly has its advantages, this move comes at just the right time, not only for us but for Whitestown. On January 26, 2016, Designer Sewing Center made history by becoming the first business in our small town to be opened by Whitestown officials. In the past, these events were handled by either Boone County or Zionsville Chamber of Commerce. But the town, like our company, has grown a lot over the past few years and it is with great pride that we take this historic first step.

The shop offers great opportunities for interaction with the community, events and specials and I am so stoked to see what the future holds. We’ve got new programs, state-ofthe-art machines and a space of our own. All of this meant setting aside the magazine for the Winter Edition - a sacrifice that I was sorry to have to make, but it means that this issue has more tutorials, fashion features and, for the first time, special offers on some beautiful fabrics. Spring is in the air and I just can’t wait to see what the future brings.

Happy Sewing!

Natalie

Being a female entrepreneur can be tough but I believe that every woman with a dream should try.

Designer Sewing Center • 8 S. Main St, Suite 103, Whitestown, IN, 46075 Tel: 317-768-3023 • • • sales@designersewingcenter.com • www.designersewingcenter.com


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News

MAKING HISTORY

THE GRAND OPENING OF DESIGNER SEWING CENTER It was a great honor to be joined by, from left, my husband (and co-owner) Stephen Reiners, Mitch Walters, Whitestown Town Manager Dax Norton , Public Relations Coordinator Tanya Sumner and Whitestown Fire Chief, Josh Westrich. Taking the photo is Jordan Albert, seen on the facing page, my son and co-owner.

On a cold day, january 26, 2016, sutura style grew from a

and abolitionist, Albert White. The tiny community where we live and work grew up, like many American towns, around the railroad. Whitestown was just a stop on the route, located 7 miles away from

home based business into a little shop and made histry. Whitestown, Indiana, USA Whitestown was founded in 1851 and is named in honor of politican

WWW.DESIGNERSEWINGCENTER.COM 6


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nearby Lebanon in Boone County. Traditionally, Whitestown business openings were officiated by Boone County or the Chamber of Commerce in neighboring Zionsville. The second ribbon cutting was done by the team from Brother Industries, Toni Weresch and cutting the ribbon, Bruce Dellert, our Regional Sales Representative. Toni is a Brother Educator extrodinaire and we are looking forward to having her back in the future. The shop is just 900 square feet and we pack a lot into our new space. At the back, close to the glass door (for plenty of natural light) is our class area. In the middle are patterns and just enough fabrics to support the programs we teach with the stars of the show, our machines, at the front. It was a wonderful day and to all those who supported us along the way - Thank you!


What a day!


Contents Sewing Ideas

11

A FEW OF MY FAVORITE THINGS

12

Spring Savings!

20

Independent Designers

22

Embroidery Corner

27

Scrappy Cat- Quarterly Project and Free Quilt Pattern

35

Natalie’s Nook

38

Catwalk to Closet

40

Sewing Machines

46

Focus on Fashion: Noon By Noor

52

The Bridge Between Two Worlds

58

Fabric in Focus: The Trending Colors of Summer

59

New Spring Fabrics

63

Seasonal Style

68

Editorial Series

71

Mod Q

87

Textiles Talk

93

Prize Winners!

100

10


Sewing Ideas

11


A FEW OF MY FAVORITE THINGS

A

A Ruffler Makes it Easy! Accessory Tutorial Ruffler attachments are an easy way to get gorgeous style for the home and your wardrobe in very little time. I had been wondering about the difference between the generic version that I had purchased a long time ago and the Brother brand unit. I decided to sew up New Look pattern 6202 and add ruffled cap sleeves, and a two layer skirt. The joy of this attachment is that it handles all the math for me making adding ruffles easy like Sunday morning. I must note that all rufflers are a little noisy, so first time users may be startled by the sound. Snap the ruffler onto your machine and use the screws to adjust it so that your needle drops directly into the slot (Photo 2). The attachment is designed to sew a centered straight stitch only, so make sure you have selected the correct stitch. Place a piece of fabric under the attachment and a long strip of thin fabric such as cotton in the unit between the ruffle plate and the top of the attachment as shown in photo 1. You can adjust the distance between ruffles with the selection lever shown in photo 3. This determines how many stitches your machine will make between ruffles. The second way to increase or decrease the number of ruffles is to increase or decease the stitch length as shown in photo 1. Sewing a test will help determine the stitch length and lever setting. Sew as you normally would keeping the fabrics straight. Do not fight the ruffler. Use a feather touch to guide he fabrics and the top fabric will be pleated/ruffled into the lower one. The Sweet Easter Dress (right) took about 1 hour to complete. See the tutorial on the following pages.


Sweet Easter Dress Tutorial Stitch up a sweet dress for your little girl in about one hour using the bodice section of New Look pattern 6202 and a ruffler.


Choose pretty cotton fabrics for the best results and the following:

● Thread to match, ● Ruffler for your machine,

● 1 3/4 yards of dress fabric,

● 1/4” guide foot,

● 1 yard of contrast fabric,

● Serger with blending thread, and

● 1 small hook and eye closure,

● Glue stick.

You Will Need

CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS 1. Cut out the BOTH the bodice back and front using just the front pattern piece (pattern piece 1) from the dress fabric, being careful to adjust the back neckline so that it sits higher than the front by about 1.5”. 2. Fold the bodice back in half and cut a 4” slit on the fold starting at the neckline. 3. Cut 2 18” x WOF pieces from the dress fabric and 1 22” x WOF of contrast for the peach dress OR 2 10” x WOF for the aqua dress. 4. Cut the sash (piece 8) and 3 24” x 1.25” strips of bias of contrast. 5. To create the sleeve caps, cut 2 pieces of fabric in this shape by folding the remaining contrast fabric on the crossgrain and folding again along the straight of grain.

4” Fold

20” Abbreviations used: WOF: Width Of Fabric

RST: Right Sides Together


Sew the shoulder seams first and finish the raw edges. Press the seams to the back.

Stitch in the ditch to secure the bias binding.

If you do not have a serger, sew one side seam and clip the binding as shown. Press.

Stitch a strip of bias around the armhole at

Use a bit of the leftover binding to finish

To reduce the bulk, sew a second line of

1/8” seam allowance as shown. Gently ease

the neckline slit. Stitch at a scant 1/8”,

straight stitches and trim the seam

the bias around the curve, do not pull it.

right sides together and turn the binding,

allowance. Press the seam open.

Press. Add a few dots of glue to the strip and

clipping it at the “V”. Press the binding to

fold so that the raw edges meet. Press to set

the wrong side of the fabric. Bias will not

the glue. Run a line of glue along the folded

fray. Edgestitch it in place.

strip and press again enclosing the seam.

If you have a serger, use it to finish all the raw edges then sew one side seam. Press. Sew the skirt sections together along one

Let the machine do the math! Place the bodice under the ruffler with the

At the end of stitching the first half of the skirt, there will be fabric left over. This is a good thing! Place the dress on a

short side. You now have a very long piece

side seam directly under the needle.Insert

flat surface and fold it in half at center

of fabric. Used a rolled hem on a serger to

the skirt into the ruffler with the side seam

front, matching the selvedge edges of the

finish the raw edge on the long side (peach

also directly under the needle. Ruffler

skirt. Cut a notch on the unstitched piece

dress) OR sew the 2 10” bands on one

setting 6, stitch length 2.5. Sew slowly. Do

at the location of the side seam.

short side. Press the seam open. Match the

not pull the skirt at all. The machine will

sides seams RST.

ruffle the skirt into the the bodice.


Match the notch to the edge and start stitching

Because the ruffler is large, you will not be able to sew all the way.

It’s easy to get nervous at this point because it’s difficult to know

Press the seam allowance out of

for sure if there is enough fabric. Relax and let the machine do

your way and then place the

it’s thing! If you stitch slowly and are careful not to

dress on a flat surface.

tug or push the fabric, it will work out just fine. Stitch as far as you can, then cut the threads and take the garment off the machine.

Use long thin pins to create pleats for the remaining space.

Set the ruffler to 12, keeping the stitch length at 2.5 For the peach underskirt, sew a line of

Using a serger makes short work of finishing the waist seam.

Quilting pins are perfect to use here.

ruffles along the top edge. Because

Using a 4 thread safety stitch, finsih

Measure the size of the ruffles that

the ruffler setting is doubled, half the

the raw edges of all layers at the

have been made and pin the fabric so

amount of fabric will be used, creating

waist seam. If you are using a

that the ruffles continue. Stitch the

a perfectly even set of skirts. Baste

conventional machine, trim the seam

seam.

the underskirt to the the dress.

allowances and finish them with an overcsat stitch of narrow zigzag.


Use a stitch in the ditch foot to sew the neckline and armhole bias in place. Contrasting thread was used in the bobbin for photographic purposes, please use matching thread on your project. To complete the project, hand sew a hook and eye to the neckline opening, ensuring that the closure fastens the dress neatly. Voila! A beautiful dress ready for your little girl!



Pretty Cotton Skirts are Cool & Comfortable Make it in minutes Now that you’ve learned how easy it is to use a ruffler, try it out on style for yourself! This über easy dirdl skirt is a snap to make for quick spring style. You will need about 3 yards of 42” or 2 yards of 60” fabric for the skirt plus a waistband measurement of fusible woven interfacing. Instructions are based upon 42” fabric with 60” instructions in parenthesis. ● Cut a waistband 5” wide on the crossgrain of your skirt fabric by your waist measurement plus 2” for the seam allowances and ease. ● Cut a 4” wide piece of woven cotton interfacing on the straight of grain. It should be cut the length of your waist measurement plus 1”. Fuse this to the center of your waistband. There will be 1/2” of fabric on all sides. ● Cut 3 (2 for 60”) pieces of fabric 26” long by the width of the fabric. Join pieces together with 1/2” seams. Finish the raw seam allowances. You now have one continous piece of fabric 80” (120”)wide by 26” long.

Skirt Photo on facing page: ©Copyright: Nadya Korobkova

Depending on your size, set the ruffler to either 6 or 12. Fuller-figured sewers may wish to use setting 12. Stitch up a test piece first then place the waistband under the ruffler and insert the skirt into the unit. Start stitching about 1” away from the raw edge. Sew at 1/2” seam allowance. This seems huge for an enclosed seam but you will thank me for this advice in a few minutes! Stop stitching about 1” away from the raw edge. Remove the ruffler and finish the waist seam on both sides with a line of straight stitches. Press the seam allowances towards the waistband. Aren’t you glad for the advice? Yeah - those tiny ruffles can be painful to press! Now trim the seam allowances down to 3/8”. Fold the long, unstitched edge of the waistband 3/8” and press. Insert an invisible zipper and finish the back seam. Fold the waistband over, right sides together and stitch it at the back seam edge. Stithc in the ditch along the waist seam to enclose the waistband. Add two hook and eye closures at center back.

Happy Spring!


Spring Savings!



Independent Designers Getting started in the Fashion Industry is a daunting task. With much of what we wear being

DESIGNER AMANDA KOKER

manufactured off-shore, there are decreasing capabilities to produce stylish clothes that fit well here in the U.S.A.

Amanda Koker is the Owner and Fashion Designer for ASK Fashion LLC- Boston MA based plus size women's wear company and brand.

ASK Fashion is a small independent company that is made in the USA. It has been running for just about 2 years and has a collection of plus size clothing available online at Amanda’s Etsy Store : http://www.etsy.com/shop/ASKFashionLLC. She currently designs and helps to produce plus size dresses in sizes 14-28. ASK is fashion brand with an attitude that features quality products exclusively made in the United States.

Getting started was a natural progression for Amanda, “I have always been passionate about art and expressing myself creatively. I have also been plus size my entire life. This was unfortunate in the early 90’s when crop tops were the look of choice. I took my own struggles and decided to solve my own problems. I knew if I had this problem- other women must have this problem too. So I took my name- Amanda Stephanie Koker- and created ASK Fashion.” Independent fashion designers are often plagued by a host of problems from supply lines to fulfillment: and money is an issue in any small business. “ I overcome challenges by bootstrapping my business (funding it myself), going to small business trade shows to find smaller fabric suppliers and factories, taking classes to help with my marketing skills, and making sure I always find time every day to do business, and take time for myself. I sell my clothing online, and through pop-up shops events during the year. Amanda showcased her Spring/Summer 2016 ASK Fashion Collection, shown over the next few pages, at Boston Fashion Week.

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Edgey, yet feminine ASK Fashion provides cool style for the plus-size market. The color blocked dress, shown above is a comfortable option in Ponte Di Roma $79.95. Studded and soft, the purple and black Punk Rock dress on the previous page is featured at the online store for $89.95. Loving the British inspired knit jacket? Contact Amanda for details!


Sposa 2016


EMBROIDERY

CORNER


Embroidery Corner

This sweet tea cozy is simple to make and great to give for Mother’s Day, or anytime! The small embroidery detail can be done on a 4” x 4” hoop in about 2 minutes and it is a great way to use up scraps from your fabric and trim stash.

A COZY WAY TO PASS COOL SPRING DAYS


Time for tea! Use our Brother Free Design this month to decorate the center of a tea cozy made from a tea towel. The red work tea set design is the perfect accent to the circular applique we created from built in Brother frame shapes. This is a quick project and while it’s perfect your next tea party it also makes a thoughtful gift.

Materials and Supplies ·

Brother Sewing and Brother Embroidery machine or a combination model

·

Brother Embroidery Threads

·

Brother Tear-Away Stabilizer

·

Curved tip scissors for trimming appliqué.

·

One tea towel measuring approximately 20-inches wide X 26-inches long.

·

One 7-inch square piece of white tone on tone printed cotton.

·

One 7-inch square piece of thin fusible fleece.

·

Insulating batting for quilted side of tea cozy, two pieces measuring 16-inches X 12-inches.

·

Coordinating fabric for lining tea cozy two pieces measuring 16-inches X 12-inches.

·

¾ yard of 1-inch wide ruffled lace.

·

Paper, straight edge ruler, and curved fashion ruler for

Figure #1

creating tea cozy pattern. ·

Brother Free Design, redworkteaset.pes. *See Figure #1.

Instructions for Creating Tea Cozy 1. Begin by creating the tea cozy pattern as follows: ·

Draw and cut a rectangle measuring 15-inches wide X 11-inches high. Fold paper half across the width of the piece.

·

Note: The featured free design will fit a

Mark a dash line 5-inches in from the top corner and then

4-inch

mark a second dash line 4-inches down from the top

technique with added lettering featured

corner. Use a straight edge to connect the two dash marks

here

and make a dot where they intersect at the center. Use

accommodates a design approximately

fashion ruler to draw a curved line beginning at center fold and ending at the marked dot. See below:

hoop.

you

To

will

use

need

the

a

appliqué

hoop

that

6-inches round. We used an 8-inch hoop to stitch our design.


Figure #2a

Figure #2b

Finish by drawing a curved line beginning at the dot and continuing to the bottom edge. *See Figure #2a and #2b.

Open

folded

paper

to

reveal

complete

pattern.

*See Figure #3. Note: Our pattern is designed for a standard 6-cup teapot. To make a trial pattern for your teapot we suggest cutting one from craft felt, pin fit on your teapot, adjust, and then

Figure #3

alter pattern as necessary for your teapot size. 2. Wash, dry, and press the tea towel. Fold in half crosswise and cut in half so you have one oversized piece for the tea cozy front and one for the back. 3. Fuse fleece to wrong side of 7-inch cotton square. 4. Select one half of the tea towel to use for the front. Hoop the piece with the width centered in the 8-inch hoop and tear away stabilizer underneath. Layer cotton square in the center with right side of fabric facing up. *See Figure #4. 5. Transfer design to machine. We added Time for Tea lettering and used the array feature to arch the letters over the design.

Designed exclusively for you from the Brother Education Department

Figure #4


6. Complete the design with a circular appliqué as

Figure #5a

follows: Select a triple straight stitch circular frame shape from the built in menu. Increase size to surround combined design. We increased our circle to equal 5.28” X 5.28”. Next, Select the satin stitch circular frame shape and increase the size so it is approximately one-quarter inch larger than the first circle. We increased our

Figure #5b

circle to equal 5.51” X 5.51”. *See Figure #5a and #5b. 7. Embroider the design, stopping after stitching the straight stitch circle. Use curved tip scissors to carefully cut away fabric outside stitching line. *See Figure #6. Cover the raw edges by stitching the satin stitch circle. *See Figure #7. 8. Center your tea cozy pattern over the circular appliqué. To allow for some shrinkage during quilting, cut piece for front

Figure #6

with an additional 1/4-inch of fabric outside the pattern line. Repeat this process to cut the back piece and two matching pieces from insulating fleece. Layer fleece under each front and back piece and quilt the layers together as desired, quilting around the circular appliqué. We used a walking foot to stitch around the circle and then followed the pattern on the towel for quilted lines in a gridded fashion.

Figure #7

9. Use the tea cozy pattern to cut two pieces for lining. 10. To create a loop for the top of the cozy cut a strip measuring 2-inches wide X 6-inches long from tea towel remnants. Fold ½-inch to the wrong side on each long edge, and then fold in half and press. Top stitch close to each long edge to finish.


11. Place pattern back on quilted pieces and trim to size. Baste lace along ½-inch seam line of curved edge of front piece. Pin loop at the top with all raw edges even. Layer back cozy piece with front having right sides together. *See Figure #8. 12. Sew the tea cozy seam for using a ½-inch seam allowance. 13. Place lining pieces right sides together and sew seam in the same manner as you did for the tea cozy. Trim seams to eliminate bulk and press both lining and tea cozy. 14. Turn both tea cozy and lining right sides out and press. 15. Slip lining inside tea cozy with wrong sides facing. Turn under ½ inch along the bottom edge of each and hand stitch to close the opening and secure the lining to the tea cozy. 16. Using small hand stitches stitch in the ditch of the seam to tack the lining and tea cozy layers together, beginning and ending a couple inches from each side of the loop at the top of the tea cozy. You are finished!

Free Embroidery Guide at the back of this issue.

Designed exclusively for you from the Brother Education Department

Figure #8


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N�� P������! C��� ��� ��� WIP ��-�����!



Scrappy Cat- Quarterly Project and Free Quilt Pattern

Scrappy Cat

Ap p ro x. 60˝ x 75˝ q uilt b y Gra c e Wilson Sew Purrfect Fla nnel a nd Wo o lies Fla nnel fa b ric s b y Bo nnie Sulliva n fo r Ma yw o o d Stud io


Scrappy Cat Designed b y Gra c e Wilson Sew Purrfect Fla nnel a nd Wo o lies Fla nnel fa b ric s b y Bo nnie Sulliva n fo r Ma ywo o d Stud io Sew one sma ll tria ng le to ea c h sid e o f o ne 6½˝ sq ua re. Press o ut tria ngles. Sew one towa rd s the sma ll tria ngle to the to p a nd b o tto m o f the 6½˝ sq ua re. Press out towa rd s the tria ng les. Ma ke 12.

5. Sew to gether the five sa shing ro ws a nd fo ur b lo c k ro w s, a lterna ting them to m a ke the 46½˝ x 61˝ q uilt to p. Sew o ne 6½˝ x 61˝ Fa b ric F strip to ea c h sid e o f the q uilt top . Sew one 6½˝ x 58½˝ Fa b ric F strip to the to p a nd b o tto m o f the q uilt to p . 7. Press yo ur q uilt top a nd la yer it. Quilt a s d esired .

2.

la rge tria ng le to Sew one ea c h side o f o ne Blo c k Center. Press o ut towa rd s the tria ngles. Sew one la rge tria ngle to the to p a nd b o tto m o f the b lo c k c enter. Press o ut to wa rd s the tria ng les to ma ke o ne 12½˝ b lo c k. Ma ke 12.

Using the d ia g ra m a s a g uid e, sew to gether three Blo c ks a nd fo ur 3˝ x 12½˝ strips. Ma ke 4.

4.

Sew to geth er fo ur 3˝ sq ua res a nd three 3˝ x 12½˝ strip s, a lterna ting them to m a ke one sa shing row . Ma ke 5.

8. Sew the seven 2½˝ x 42˝ Bind ing strip s tog e ther

w ith d ia g ona l sea m s p ressed o p en. Fo ld the b ind ing in ha lf, w ro ng sid es to g ether a nd p ress to m a ke a d o ub le b ind ing . Sew to the q uilt w ith a ⅜″ sea m , m itering the c o rners.


Sc ra p py Ca t 60˝ x 75˝ Quilt Sku

Fa b ric #

Cut(s)

Fa b ric A

exac tly ² yd

Fussy c ut (12) 6½˝ p a nel sq ua res.

(thre e row s, c ut in th e mid d le of g ree n ric ra c .)

Fa b ric B ¾ yd

Fa b ric C

MASF8317-JA 1⅛ yd s

Fa b ric D

MASF18506-TJ 1¼ yd s Fa b ric E

MASF18503-R ¼ yd

Fa b ric F

MASF8315-JA 2 yd s

Ba c king 4 yd s

Cut (4) 5¼˝ x 42˝ strip s into : (24) 5¼˝ sq ua res Cut ea c h sq ua re d ia g ona lly onc e to m a ke (48) sm a ll tria ng les Cut (5) 6⅞˝ x 42˝ strip s into : (24) 6⅞˝ sq ua res Cut ea c h sq ua re d ia g ona lly onc e to m a ke (48) la rge tria ng les.

Cut (3) 12½˝ x 42˝ strip s into : (31) 3˝ x 12½˝ strip s for sa shin g

Cut (2) 3˝ x 42˝ strip s into : (20) 3˝ sq ua res

Cuts a re p a ra llel to the selva g e: (2) 6½˝ x 61˝ strip s a nd (2) 6½˝ x 58½˝ strip s fo r o ut er b o rd er

Cut (2) 68˝ x 42˝ p iec es. Sew the p iec es to g ether o n the sho rt ed g es a nd trim to m a ke (1) 68˝ x 84˝ b a c king p iec e.

Bind ing

MASF18506-JA 5/ 8 yd

Cut (7) 2½″ x WO F strip s.


Natalie’s Nook

We’re Going to the Show! We are so excited to be participating in the Boone County Home and Garden Show! This is our first show ever and we are

Take Advantage of Show Specials!

looking forward to sharing demos, showcasing our machines and meeting up with fellow sewists and quilters. At the show we will provide demonstrations on the Brother CM650W - showing

Visit us at the Boone County Home and Garden Show April 14-16

how fast and easy cutting applique pieces can be. The DreamCreator and DreamWeaver will also be on site from Brother. Our Juki display will feature the new HZL-DX7 and the MO-1000 together with the workhorse of the serging world, the new MO-114D. We will have special financing and fun kits available too! See you there!


We’re not just sending

We’re sending

www.littledressesforafrica.org


e h t m Fro

Catwalk to Closet

Catwalk t e s o l C To Your

Pink is just pretty anytime but especially for the Spring. We see this as a sweet prom, bridal party or Easter dress based on New Look 6341. Use the short

M.Y.I.

sateen in aqua or lilac. sleeve from View C combined with View B for Your choice, $12.95 per yard. a wonderful addision to your spring wardrobe. Get the look with embroidered pink cotton knit or, try our cotton



CLASSIC LINES FROM RALPH LAUREN While Ralph Lauren contests that he doesn’t “do fashion” he certainly does style. Fresh clean lines are a hallmark of his collections and this spring is no exception. This lovely maxi dress features layers of soft, flowing, printed chiffon in a classic color combination of navy and white for a sophisticated yet playful look.

Fabrics: Koshibo Prints in either Fuschia or Navy $12.95/ yard. For fabrics, I love the look Delft Blue Rose Print: $9.95/ yard of the polyester Koshibo prints (shown left). The New Look Pattern 6375: navy on white has just a $4.29 each touch of black while the fuschia is presented on a pale pink backdrop. If you prefer a larger print, our delft blue roses (right) are a nice option. influenced by the great designers.

To add layers, simply create a style line just New Look Pattern 6375 below the waist, cut semi whips up in a few hours and View B would look oh- circles in 2 or 3 lengths so-feminine. While knock and stitch them onto the offs are a no-no, it is fine skirt. to admire and be

42


A model walks the runway wearing Ralph Lauren Spring 2016 during New York Fashion Week. ŠFashionStock.com

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BOLD LACE IN COLOR PLAY Monique Lhullier rocked the Spring 2016 New York Fashion Week runway with her bold lace in vibrant fucshia and coral orange. If you have never sewn with lace before, there is a tutorial in this issue about sewing with lace. Bold colors hav always been a favorite of mine,

from lime and orange (yes New Look pattern 6341 is together) to cyan and a fun, cute way to stitch pink, brights will always up a fun lace dress. be a big part of summer style. Lace is available in a For street wear, start with variety of colors and style a more stable lace such as ranging from $10.95 $79.99 / yard Venice or Guipuire lace (shown at left below) and layer it with fun stretch lace in cool colors.


Stunning lace in bold colors at the Monique Lhullier runway show during Spring 2016 New York Fashion Week at The Arc, Skylight at Moynihan Station. ŠCopyright: Sam Aronov


Sewing Machines

ANGELA WOLF ON BROTHER SEWING MACHINES

Couture Designer Angela Wolf shares her views on Brother sewing machines in an interview with Brother Industries earlier this year. Source: Brother USA.


THE BEST OF BROTHER

REVOLUTIONARY BROTHERFEATURES BECOME TOOLS OF THE TRADE FOR INDUSTRY EXPERT RENOWNED FASHION DESIGNER & BROTHER SEWING CONSULTANT, AN GELA WOLF, SHARES HER TOP BROTHER FAVORITES

Even experts rely on the best tools in the industry to enhance their work and make their jobs easier. Internationally renowned fashion designer, Angela Wolf, has become a household name for thousands of sewing enthusiasts worldwide by educating them on her design skills using Brother sewing and embroidery machines. As a successful custom couture designer for over 20 years, Angela has set the stage for elegance with her exclusive oneof-a-kind designs that showcase intricate hand embellishing and beading. In 2009, she experienced her first and favorite Brother sewing machine – the Brother PQ1500. Two years later, she signed on as the anchor of the Brother-sponsored PBSsewing show, It’s Sew Easy. Since then, Angela has had the honor of being one of the first designers to experiment and create with the industryfirst features found on some of the top


Brother sewing and embroidery machines on the market today.

Angela’s Top Brot her Favorit e Feat ures & Machines

“ Brother machines opened up a whole new world for me,” Angela explains. “ The features make it so simple to design and create.” As a self-proclaimed technology guru, Angela says that the computer technology and features found in Brother machines make it a seamless transition. “ In today’s world, we are all using some form of technology,” Angela explained. “ Brother has eliminated the learning curve by making the functions familiar and easy-to-use.” Angela’s expansive knowledge of Brother machines and experience in the industry have positioned her as one of the go-to experts for what’s hot and trending in fashion sewing and design. She has narrowed down her top six favorite Brother features and machines that she says have revolutionized her career.

“ THERE WAS A TIME I WOULD

• Scanning Feat ure using InnovEye® 2 Technology on THE Dream Machine Innov-ís XV8500D. “ This is by far my favorite Brother feature. It’s like having a built-in camera! It eliminates the guesswork, so I know exactly where my design will go and how it will look before I even press a button. I will often scan in my garments using the ‘Scanning’ function built into the machine. This way, I can see the design superimposed on the project so I can position, rotate, color and resize it to fit my look!” • THE Dream Fabric Frame. “ I absolutely love designing and embellishing fabrics on this 3' x 5' frame. It’s so compact, it fits in any room! Thread painting on my fabrics is my favorite. It adds dimension and texture to create custom and one- of-a-kind fabrics that I use to make my garments. In fact, it’s a bit addictive. I wish I had one at the office and another one at home in front of the firep lace!”

SHY AWAY FROM CHALLENGING

• The Persona PRS100. “ This is a perfect bridge machine between a basic sewing/embroidery machine and the PROJECTS,” AN GELA SAID. “ WITH THE multi-needle machines. It really INNOVATIVE FEATURES FOUND ON is a ‘Singular Sensation,’ as it’s a very flexib le single BROTHER MACHIN ES, I HAVE PEACE OF needle embroidery machine. It offers unique embroidery options and it’s compatible with iBroidery.com, so I can MIND KNOWING THE GARMENT WILL embroider Disney – even on caps! The vertical LOOK EXACTLY HOW I WANT IT TO – config uration of the machine allows me to easily access world’s most legendary trade route through WITHOUT ALL THE STRESS.” Take a journey along thehard to reach areas like caps, sleeves and bags. The cap the luxurious fabricsframe thatand were made andcomes traded driver set that withfor thecenturies. machine allow me to embroider on hats – something I couldn’t do on Discover traditional and modern sewing methods for creating my tradit ional embroidery machines.”

beautiful garments in today’s marketplace.

• Sew Straight TM 2 Laser Visio n Guide. “ This feature has Look for it on our website www.suturastyle.com Winter 2016. so manyatuses, particularly making it very easy to sew

THE Dream Machine

perfectly straight lines for top- stitching and quilting. For instance, stitching in the ditch is easier than ever. I simply align the laser guide with the ditch and start sewing. My stitches never wander away from the seam and are always in a straight line!”


• PQ1500SLPRW. “ This remains my first and favorite Brother machine for sewing. It replaced my industrial machines and the needle felting feature is a creative bonus. When I want to add texture and dimension to my wool, fleece or silk garments, I always make sure to use the needle felting attachment. It elevates garment embellishment to another level!”

Angela loves to share her passion for Brother with her viewers. In addition to her audience on It’s Sew Easy (which just filmed its eleventh season), Angela currently teaches classes on PatternReview.com and has an impressive number of 74,000 students on Craftsy.com (an online website for creative learning), where she teaches sewing classes, using all Brother machines. “ I’m asked at least once a week from my viewers which Brother machine they should buy,” Angela stated. “ It’s a great feeling to know they are watching, learning, and want one of the best machines in the business.”

• MuVit TM Digit al Dual Feed Syst em. “ This is an ingenious feature that I can use on all kinds of fabrics, particularly sewing bags and layers of fabric. It provides me with virtually perfect stitching on difficult to sew fabrics like leather, faux fur and even silk! The best part about this feature is that I can digitally adjust the dual feed speed right on the screen. It gives me that extra precision I always look for in my projects.”

Angela has raised the bar when it comes to her passion for fashion. As a successful designer, she says it was important to give back. “ The main reason I altered my career from designing to teaching was to get people excited and to inspire them to sew,” Angela said. “ I’ve had students ranging from six to 88 years old. The best part is that no matter how young or old you are, sewing allows your inner creativity to flow. Brother has hit the mark by making machines that are fun and easy- to-use for sewers at every skill level.”

Angela’s Top Brot her Favorit es Feat ures & Machines (cont inued )


Angela has expanded her designing and educating career by launching the Angela Wolf Pattern Collection™, a line of exclusive fan favorite designs for the home sewer. “ The viewers know I always wear my own designs,” said Angela. “ It’s fun to hear their feedback, knowing they don’t want to buy ‘off the rack’ anymore and are willing to try sewing their own clothes.”

“ I’M ASKED AT LEAST ONCE A WEEK FROM MY VIEWERS WHICH BROTHER MACHINE THEY SHOULD BUY,” AN GELA STATED. “ IT’S A GREAT FEELING TO KNOW THEY ARE WATCHING, LEARNING, AND WANT ONE OF THE BEST MACHIN ES IN THE BUSINESS.”

Staying ahead of the fashion curve is critical in Angela’s business. She says embroidery remains one of the hottest elements in the sewing world, which goes hand-in-hand with the amazing embroidery capabilities on Brother machines. Taking center stage on the embroidery front is the new Persona PRS100 single-needle embroidery machine. This versatile, feature-packed machine is affordably priced and is the perfect bridge for the home sewer who wants more embroidery capabilities without jumping right into the expense of a six- or 10-needle embroidery machine. Combining textures like quilting with denim, for example, is becoming a hot trend on garments that include jeans and jackets. “ It’s creativity on the embellishment side,” Angela explained. “ Machines like the Brother ScanNCut2 electronic cutting machine allow me to add another level of creativity to a garment with ease and precision.” As a renowned custom couture designer, Angela has labored thousands of hours on exclusive garments for her clients over the years – doing much of the intricate work by hand. “ The embellishment capabilities on Brother machines are equal to the quality that I did

by hand,” Angela stated. The results look so rich that no one can tell the difference. The final products are impeccable.” With thousands of viewers and followers around the world, Angela is grateful for the opportunity to share her passion and inspire others to sew. “ I started sewing when I was six years old and continued throughout my college career,” Angela said. “ It wasn’t until I studied and learned the skills of proper garment construction that I understood the mechanics of the craft and I have never turned back.” She says Brother has designed sewing and embroidery machines with features that designers have only dreamed of. “ What you thought was a challenge and out of reach is now only a push of a button away,” Angela said. “ Brother makes it easy to find the designer in each of us.”


Sweaters For All Weather Cozy, comfy and ohhhh so nice to wear - when the cold weather hits, I reach for my favorite sweaters with chronic regularity. And a wardrobe full of lacey, fuzzy, downright cuddly sweaters is just one pattern away. Burda Patter 6990 is a true keeper. With 5 styles that range from classic to current, it’s easy to choose a style for the moment. Enter a fun range of light and heavy fabrics and a few stolen moments at the machine and it is easy to stitch up some casual style using the production method. The production method involves cutting multiples of the same style and sewing them together. This builds muscle memory and allows you to finish in short order. Here are some tips for making sweaters for all weather. ● Decide to stitch either dark or light fabrics in one sitting ● Load the machine with a thread - such as black or charcoal that will work for a variety of colors ● Cut a few sweaters out, varying the neckline if you wish ● Start at the top and work your way to the hem of the sweaters Choose an array of knit fabric in various weights and in short order, you will have a stack of sweaters for all weather.

Burda 6990


Focus on Fashion: Noon By Noor

In 2008 by designers Shaikha Noor Al Khalifa and Shaikha Haya Al Khalifa, cousins and friends since childhood, debuted their stunning collection in their homeland of Bahrain after studying Fashion Design in the United States. At just 25 years of age, their first collection showed all the poise of a pair of veterans and the styles were welcomed and worn by fashionistas and celebrities. To launch the brand internationally, an exclusive event was held in Los Angeles in July 2011. The launch was followed by a presentation in February 2012 during New York Fashion Week, where the designer’s displayed their Fall 2012 collection to editors, journalists and celebrity guests.


Since then, the duo has consistently produced collections that are a beautiful blend of East Meets West, with melange of flowing style lines and crisp cuts. The collections are fun to watch and easy to envision in one’s closet. Exactly what a collection should be. The following pages are highlights from the Spring 2016 Collection. Noon by Noor can be found at Saks Fifth Avenue Bahrain, Saks Fifth Avenue Dubai, Symphony Style, Harvey Nichols Kuwait, Harvey Nichols Riyadh, Per Lei Couture Doha, Ron Herman LA, Elizabeth Charles San Francisco and Le 66 Paris. Noon By Noor’s online boutique facilitates worldwide shipping.






Ponte di Roma The Bridge Between Two Worlds

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Fabric in Focus: The Trending Colors of Summer


Beautiful knits are rocking the runway of of Spanish designer Juanjo Oliva in Madrid with his Spring Summer Collection 2016. Bold, bright colors are always in style for summer and this season is no different with aqua, mandarin orange, canary yellow and coral taking center stage.

His collection features soft flowing lines that speak of comfort and style.


Story Photo Credit: catwalker / Shutterstock.com


A model walks the runway at Ralph Lauren’s 2016 Spring Fashion Show in NYC.

Bold geometric shapes and bright colors wowed audiences and editors alike.


New Spring Fabrics Walking into our little shop and making sense of the fabric selection takes a practiced eye, which is part of the reason why we create this magazine, to help sewists and quilters alike see the influence revolving around our fabric choices. Every one of the more than 150 new fabrics arriving over the next few weeks has been hand selected for three things, price, quality and current trends. Most of our fabrics are new releases or classic basics. If you haven’t been by in a while, why not stop in and see the new goods? Readers who live out of town can look forward to our fabrics joining other products at our online store.

Fat quarters of the Faithfully Your Collection are expected by midApril.


New Sprin

Organic Cotton Knits in 5 beautiful colors. Ultra-soft, nice drape and a lovely hand are characteristics of these wonderful knits. Apple Green, Black, Fuchsia, Red and White


ng Fabrics


This Pfaff Creative Performance has been my demo machine and comes with everything you need to create spectacular results including the Grand Dream Hoop shown above. We are offering this demo machine at over $2000 less than the current market price. Visit us in store to grab this fantastic deal!



Seasonal Style

FREE DEMO

I

���������� ��� �� found in so many places. The crisp style lines of this printed top contrast with the super soft texture of the fabric. I love wearing feminine clothes that are practical and our Asymmetrical Knit Top is perfect for spring with its double layers and figure flattering lines.

W

� ��� ����������� Mother’s Day all month long with fun classes, special programs and free demos. Sign up in-store or by phone to join us on Wednesdays for these free lessons.

F

�� ���� ��� you will need 1 ½ yards of each sheer sweater knit and our featured splash knit. See the Spring Calendar in this issue for dates and times.




Designer Secrets: Sewing With Lace

Editorial Series

This article is an introduction to a series of articles for Bridal and Special Occasion

The lace overskirt of this bridal gown is cut so that the scalloped edge is at the hem, saving the need to hem the garment. Preparing to Cut Lace is actually much simpler to sew than it may seem, however it can be very time consuming.

proper lace or silk pins to secure the pieces through all layers.

If this is your first lace project, pick something easy like dirndl skirt or simple top.

Tempting as it my be to skip the basting - don’t do it! Basting your lace garment is an essential quality step. Use a fine needle and one ply of thread to thread trace the stitching lines. Cut out the pattern pieces, around the motifs that extend beyond the seam line. Gently remove the pattern pieces.

Trace out full pattern pieces onto pattern tracing fabric or tissue paper. Cut right and left sides by flipping the pattern pieces over. Lay out your underlay fabric in a single layer. Place the lace on top of it, also in a single layer. Lay out all your pattern pieces on the lace. Ensure that the main motif is at the center of your pattern piece and that the galloon (scalloped) edges correspond to the hems of your pattern pieces such as sleeve hems and skirt hems. Lace does not have grain so feel free to move the pieces around for matching the pattern. Use

At up to an eye-watering $600/yard, Chantilly Lace can a daunting prospect for the most skilled dressmaker. This tutorial provides the basic methods for sewing “big box store” lace. More fine sewing methods will be shared in the upcoming “Sposa” edition. You will need pattern tracing fabric and an underlay fabric such as organza or tulle for this method.

Baste the pieces together by lapping the garment edges and working carefully with the right side of the fabric up. Sew the pieces together with fine thread and a narrow zigzag stitch, going around the motifs. The underlay privdes stability while sewing and adds shape to the garment.

For more information on sewing with lace, I highly recommend reading Couture Sewing Techniques and Fabric Sewing Guide, both by Claire B. Shaeffer (p. 199 -206), and the out of print book, Singer Sewing Reference Library, Sewing with Specialty Fabrics.


Excellence

Redefined

6


JUKI IS BETTER THAN EVER

SURPASSING GREATNESS: THE NEW JUKI DX7 VS. THE F-600 Looking online for sewing machine reviews yielded about 12,800,000 results in 0.42 seconds with Google. Most of the machines that came up can be ordered online and the reviewers include a link that takes the consumer to the site, making the purchase process very easy. Last edition, the best sergers were covered across the board, but now that we are Authorized Dealers for Juki and Brother, it behooves me to focus on what I work with everyday. Juki rang in the New Year in an astonishing manner bringing out 6 new machines and a new serger. The new HZL-DX7 replaces the F-600 as the top of the line sewing machine from Juki. Fans of the F-600 may be upset but this new model is packed with features that sewers and quilters alike are going to love. The first of these is the float function which is designed to prevent uneven seams and bunching when quilting. This is a huge benefit for those who like to work with stretchy fabrics like minky. The presser foot pressure is reduced in 0.1 mm increments allowing the most difficult fabrics to pass under the presser foot smoothly. I remember struggling to get my presser foot pressure just right by adjusting it manually. Nice step forward. Another new feature to look forward to is the Foot Switch Function. You can now customize how the heel tap mechanism works on your machine. Choices include: ● Lifting the presser foot,

5

● Trimming the threads, ● Reverse stitching, and ● Sewing a single stitch. The machine also has increased speed - up to 1050 s.p.m. The F-600 had 900. If that seems like too much, the DX-5 and the DX-7 have Low Speed Inching Sewing. Basically the machine will slow right down to a “snail stuck in molasses” pace for those times when precision counts the most. My favorite new feature is the straight stitch slide plate. With the flip of a switch, the machine transforms from zig zag mode to straight stitch only - perfect for quilters and fine garment sewers alike. The machine recognizes when the switch has been made so no more slamming the needle into the plate (I’ve done this a few times after taking a break from sewing) when a new stitch is selected. It just doesn’t sew and more importantly, it let’s you know. It can be humbling to sit at a machine with a better memory than I have. Although the machine is remarkably simple in appearance, it has incredible power. I kicked it up to full speed using straight stitch, zig zag and a satin stitch. Some things have to be seen to be believed, so c’mon by and visit the shop. We’ve got plenty of cool new things to show your from Juki.


We Suggest: Printed Chiffon $9.95/yard


For Mickey and Sew Much More! The Dream Machine.


Learning to Sew is as Easy as 1-2-3!

Learn to sew, use a serger, make patterns & more!

Spring/Summer 2016 Class Calendar

Designer Sewing Center 8 South Main Street, Suite 103, Whitestown, IN Designer Sewing Center 8 S. Main St Whitestown, IN 317-768-3023 www.designersewingcenter.com Phone: 317-768-3023


Mother’s Day

MAY 8, 2016

MONTH LONG CELEBRATIONS! It’s gonna be SEW much FUN!

Mother -Daughter Sewing Classes!

Workshops and Guest Events!

www.designersewingcenter.com


Programs For everyone

Sewing, Quilting, Crafting - oh my! At Designer Sewing Center we have classes, workshops, courses and programs for every age and skill level! Whether you are an 8 year old making a first outfit or 98 with decades of experience, there is always something to learn!

Designer Sewing Center

8 S. Main St

Whitestown, IN

317-768-3023

www.designersewingcenter.com


Designer Sewing Center 8 S. Main St. Whitestown 317-768-3023

4 2-Hour Sessions

4 3-Hour Sessions

www.designersewingcenter.com

4 3-Hour Sessions

$229

1 3-Hour Session

$279

1 3-Hour Session

$279

$79

$79

1 3-Hour Session

$49

Course 13 Designer Collection The Designer Collection Course is the culmination of all that you have learned thus far. Pre-requisites are Sew Like a Pro, Serge Like a Pro and your choice of either Dressmaking or Tailoring. In this intense 8week course students will: ●Develop an apparel collection of 8-12 pieces ●Design/source accessories to coordinate with the collection ●Create patterns and technical drawings ●Construct an entire apparel collection using the skills acquired in previous courses Students will need to purchase fabric and pattern making supplies for their projects. Textbook fees are not included

8 3-Hour Sessions $590

Sutura Professional Fit- Alterations Get the tips and tricks you need to do your own alterations! In this workshop students will learn how to: ● ● ● ●

Sew invisible hems by hand or machine Take in skirts and pants at the waist Taper pant legs Adjust T-shirts for full/small bust

This workshop is 2 hours long. Fabric for method samples is included.

1 3-Hour Session $49


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Designer Sewing Center 8 S. Main St. Whitestown 317-768-3023

www.designersewingcenter.com

Sew Simply

Machine Embroidery

Sutura Novice Class

Sutura Style Embroidery

Get the tips and tricks you need to get started sewing! In this class students will learn how to:

Discover how easy it is to:

● ● ● ●

Thread the machine and adjust tensions Understand basic patterns Choose woven fabrics Install a zipper

This program is 2 hours long. Fabric for method samples is included.

1 2-Hour Sessions

This workshop is 2 hours long. Fabric for method samples is included.

1 2-Hour Sessions

$39

Quilts and Home Décor

Tailoring 101

Sutura Style for the Home

Sutura Tailoring 101: Pants and Skirts

$49

You will be guided step-by-step as you learn how to:

In this single session class your instructor will demonstrate methods to:

Make Grommet or Pocket Rod Curtains Sew a pillow cover Make a simple mini quilt Stitch basic table linens such as placemats, runners and table clothes

● ● ● ●

Hoop a variety of fabrics Use the correct stabilizer Select threads and needles for the project Work with difficult fabrics such as terry cloth

● ● ●

● ● ● ●

Mark and cut your patterns for tailoring methods Sew professional darts Baste your projects Create a two or four piece waist band Make a fully lined skirt or pair of slacks

This is an all day workshop. Please bring a lunch for the break. We will be doing method samples, not making actual décor items.

4 3-Hour Sessions

Full Day Workshop $39

$279

Tailoring 102

Fashion Sewing Rocks

Sutura Tailoring 102: Jackets & Shirts

Designed with Teens in mind, this once-perweek sessions are jammed packed with everything budding designers want to know. Learn how to re-style patterns to make them look just how you want. Get insider tips and tricks to sew a truly cool outfit.

You will be guided step-by-step as you learn how to: ● Mark and cut your patterns for tailoring methods ● Sew professional bodice darts ● Interline your projects ● Create a professional style shirt , blouse or, ● Make a fully-lined jacket.

4 3-Hour Sessions

Course 13 Designed with Kids in mind, this once-perweek sessions are jammed packed with everything young sewers want to know. Learn how to: ● ● ● ● ●

Work with 1-3 piece patterns Press for success Add embellishments Express your own ideas Make your choice of garments - there are several to choose from!

Weekly 1 Hour Sessions $15.00/class paid monthly at $60

In your program you will learn how to work with a variety of machines and: ● ● ● ● ●

Press for success Make great clothes Add embellishments Create durable styles Draft simple patterns

Weekly 1.5 Hour Sessions $17.50/class paid monthly at $70

$279 Get the tips and tricks you need to get started with your Juki serger! In this class students will learn how to: ● ● ● ●

Thread the machine Understand how to create basic seams Choose knit fabrics and specialty threads Stitch up a fun project!

This program is 2 hours long. Fabric for method samples is included. As always, you get to choose your project! Visit us in-store to see the options for this program


Free Programs S��-A-L��� ���� N������ Dawn

Sewing clothing is fun and easy! On Wednesday afternoons join Natalie for a sew-a-long starting in May. Various projects.

Q���� C���

Come on over to the shop and stitch along with us as we make a variety of quilts. Each month there is a featured project with demos and free quilting instructions. We provide the machines and the instructions. Project pattern purchase is optional. Runs every Tuesday from 10:30-12:00 March-April: Down on Grandpa’s Farm Crib Quilt May: My Mother’s Garden June: OPA! B�

��� “S��”����

Caring about the community is a big part of who we are at Designer Sewing Center. Join us each Thursday at 10:30 a.m. as we explore “God’s Promises of Hope for Women”. We have a short devotional and then get busy sewing for the community and various charities. We are currently working on Little Dresses and Shorts for Africa. More charities will be added as the group grows. We have limited seating in our class area. Please call the store to reserve your place if you wish to attend. Designer Sewing Center

8 S. Main St

Whitestown, IN

317-768-3023

www.designersewingcenter.com


MOTHER’S DAY

Da er’s y Sp

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al

2

Mo

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CELEBRATIONS

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Mommy & Me Sewing Classes Join us for a Mother-Daughter sewing class at a special Mother’s Day price! In this 2 hour workshop you will learn to set up the machine and sew a fun project that makes a great gift! Two Sessions: 10:30- 12:30 & 1:30-3:30 May 7, 2016

07

$39

Mother’s Day Sewing Spectacular

14

It’s a great time to treat yourself to something fun! Join us for a full day workshop that empowers you with the basics of sewing, pattern cutting and quilting. Learn in a day! 11:00 - 4:00 May 14, 2016

$79 TA KE

Quilt Express

$99

ET

May 21,2016

3G

sewing a perfect 1/4” seam to piecing. We will be

$

21

one day workshop will teach you all the basics from

making a 4 block sampler quilt. 11:00 - 4:00

LL A ki Ju E! A Elue! FR Va 9

If you have ever wanted to learn how to quilt, this

* 2 for 1 Class price applies to two people registered for the same class at the same time. Only one special offer may be used either the “2 for 1 special” OR the “take all three and get the machine free” but not both. Kit fees are extra. Designer Sewing Center

8 S. Main St

Whitestown, IN

317-768-3023

www.designersewingcenter.com


Tailoring is a NOBLE Profession and worthy of being pursued

Father’s Day is June 19th

SPECIAL PROGRAMS

2 for 1 Classes! Father & Son Sew Along June 4: 10:30-12:00 Tailoring Traditions

Day

Weekend 6/18-19 Denim & Leather June 25, 10:30-4:30

Father & Son Sew Along: Make a grill kit while learning how to sew! $39 Tailoring Traditions: Passing along the art of fine tailoring we will make a tailored vest. $99 Denim and Leather Workshop: Learn how to make a great pair of jeans, leather belt and bag in this full day workshop. $129 * 2 for 1 Class price applies to two people registered for the same class at the same time. Only one special offer may be used either the “2 for 1 special” OR the “take all three and get the machine free” but not both. Kit fees and some class materials are extra.

d get

Father’s

A JUKI

an

June 11, 11-4

Take all 3


Sutura Kids Summer Camp

Session 1: June 13-17,

Session 2: June 20-24,

Session 3: June 27- July 1, 2016

Discover a World of Creative Fun! Have a blast while learning to sew! Designer Sewing Center has three different weekly camps for 8-12 year-old students. As always with Sutura Style programs, student will have a choice of projects. We offer non-clothing and clothing options for boys and girls. Sutura Kids is compatible with 4-H Apparel and Textiles programs. Kids will have the chance to make Practice/Service projects, and fun items for themselves too!

The Early Bird Gets a Machine!

Registering early really pays off! The first six students to register for Week One get to keep the Brother SB530T sewing machine that they will learn on in class! A $179 Value! Triple Crown! The first six students to register for all three sessions get to keep their SB3129 - a $449 Value! To qualify, a parent or

guardian must complete the Registration Form found online at: www.designersewingcenter.com and return it to us with the registration fee of $229 per week by March 31, 2016. Camp is from 9:00 12:00 Monday to Friday and includes all patterns, fabric, notions and supplies for practice and sewing projects.

Designer Sewing Center 8 S. Main St, Suite 103, Whitestown, IN, 46075 317-768-3023 www.designersewingcenter.com Designer Sewing Center 8 S. Main St Whitestown, IN 317-768-3023 www.designersewingcenter.com


Program

April Dates

May Dates

June Dates

Sew Like A Pro

Sat: 2,9,16,23 @ 11:00

Wed: 4,11,18,25 @ 6:00

Mon 6,13,20,27 @ 6:00

Serge Like A Pro

Wed: 6,13,20,27 @ 6:00

Tue: 3,10,17,24 @ 6:00

Wed: 1,8,15,22 @ 6:00

Dressmaking& Bridal

DNR

Wed: 1:00

Tue: 7,14,21,28 @ 5:00

Tailoring 101

Mon: 4,11,18,25 @ 6:00

DNR

DNR - See Father’s Day Special Programs

Tailoring 102

DNR

Mon: 2,9,16,23 @ 6:00

DNR - See Father’s Day Special Programs

Sutura Pro Fit Bodices

Tue: 19 @ 6:00

DNR- See Special Mother’s Day Programs

DNR

Sutura Pro Fit Skirts & Pants

Tue: 5 @ 6:00

DNR- See Special Mother’s Day Programs

DNR

Just Jeans - Denim Jeans & Skirts

Tue: 12 @ 6:00

Wed: 25 @ 2:00

Novice Sewing Class

Wed: 13 @ 2:00

DNR- See Special Mother’s Day Programs

Novice Serger Class

Mon: 4 @ 2:00

Tue: 10 @ 1:00

DNR

Home Décor & More

Mon: 18 @ 10:00

DNR- See Special Mother’s Day Programs

DNR

Sutura Kids

Mon: 4,11,18,25 @ 5:00 Tue: 5,12,19,26 @ 4:30 Sat: 2,9,16,23,30 @ 9:00

Mon: 2,9,16,23 @ 5:00 Tue: 3,10,17,24 @ 4:30 Sat: 7,14,21,28 @ 9:00

CAMP STARTS!

Fashion Sewing Rocks

September Start

September Start

September Start

Machine Embroidery

Tue: 26 @ 6:00

Wed: 18 @ 1:00

DNR

Alterations

DNR

Wed: 11 @ 1:00

DNR

September Start

September Start

September Start

Designer Collection

DNR - See Father’s Day Special Programs DNR - See Father’s Day Special Programs

*DNR: Does Not Run this month September Start: This program is longer in duration and will start back in the Fall Designer Sewing Center

8 S. Main St

Whitestown, IN

317-768-3023

www.designersewingcenter.com


2

9

1

8

1:00-2:30 pm

10:30-12:00

1:00-2:30 pm

Quilt Club 10:30-12:00

Memorial Day

Designer Sewing Center

Sew-a-long

31

30

29

8 S. Main St

10:30-12:00

Quilt Club

Whitestown, IN

1:00-2:30 pm

Sew-a-long

25

1:00-2:30 pm

10:30-12:00

24

Sew-a-long

Quilt Club

23

18

17

22

1:00-2:30 pm

10:30-12:00

16

Sew-a-long

Quilt Club

11

Sew-a-long

Quilt Club

10

4

Wed

3

Tue

27

20

13

6

Fri

7

Mommy & Me

Sat

28

11:00-4:00

Quilt Express

21

11:00-4:00

Sewing Spectacular

14

Session 2: 1:30-3:30

Session 1: 10:30-12:30

www.designersewingcenter.com

10:30-12:00

Bible “Sew”cial

10:30-12:00

Bible “Sew”cial

26

10:30-12:00

Bible “Sew”cial

19

10:30-12:00

Bible “Sew”cial

12

10:30-12:00

Bible “Sew”cial

5

Thu

Special Programs Calendar

Happy Mother’s Day!

317-768-3023

May 2016

15

Mother’s Day

Mon

Closed

Sun

Sunday:

Designer Sewing Center Hours: Mon-Wed: 10-8 Thu- Fri: 10-6 Saturday: 9-5


Mod Q

Mod Q MODERN QUILTING METHODS

Scan N Cut Quilt Using a machine to cut the fabric for my applique turned out to be a bit of an adventure! Last month, Toni Weresch, Brother Educator and Digitizing Guru, visited us at Designer Sewing Center. One of the machines she taught us about was the Scan N Cut CM650W. The machine was a sheer joy to use and oh-so-simple to work with once I had a little training. I was able to put together a little Valentine’s Day hot pad fairly quickly - much faster that if I had to cut all the little pieces by hand. The next project was the first block in our March/April quilt “Down on Grandpa’s Farm. Continued on the next page


This simple quilt uses the Brother CM650W to accurately cut out the pieces and novice level stitching techniques to piece it all together. Part 1

You are all invited to join us in the shop every Tuesday starting March 22 as we stitch up this Dawn Abbey Quilt Design.

Using the fun farm animal

● Pig

print as our focus fabric,

● Cow

this easy-to-make crib

● Rooster

quilt is a great way to

● Chicken

learn how to quilt. With

● Sheep

just 6 blocks, you will have

● Goose

the chance to learn basic

For the block, gather

methods for:

together solids or blenders

● Applique

in the colors that are

● Paper piecing

shown in the Happy

● Free motion quilting

Homestead Cream

● Framing the blocks

Figurines fabric shown

● Binding the quilt You

here. Each applique is

can choose from 6

about 5 1/2” high so fat

simple animal blocks:

eigths work well.


You Will Need: ● for the blocks: 2/3 yard of light background fabric cut into 6 x 9 1/2” squares, ● Fat eigths or scraps of blue, red, brown/tan, white, light blue, peach and yellow fabrics, ● 1/2 yard of each red, off white and blue fabric, ● 1 yard of fusible web, ● A crib sized quilt batt, ● 1 yard of fabric for the quilt back, and ● 2 packages of extra wide double fold bias tape. Prepare the fabric by washing it, cutting off the selvedges and pressing it with starch. The fabric should have a nice crisp hand to it. I recommend using Mary Ellen’s Best Pressed Starch Alternative. Lightly mist the fabric and press it carefully from the wrong side. Repeat this process, creating layers of starch as needed to get a crisp hand.

When choosing fabrics: Always choose a light, medium and dark fabric for your quilt if you want it to “pop”. Bold colors like red and blue (dark) contrast well with the off-white background of the focus fabric. The tan color is a medium range (colors vary on screen) and we are using a light blue, medium yellow and medium peach to add balance.


Tail Hoof Face

Fore Leg Hoof

Head Fore

Hoof

Leg Hoof Ear

Ear

Back

Body

Leg

Trace all pattern pieces onto a fusible web product such as WonderUnder© on the paper side. Cut each shape neatly on the lines and fuse it to your fabric. Following the lines, cut out your fabric. Leave the paper backing on the pieces and store them in a plastic zip closure bag until you are ready to use them.

Back Leg

© Copyright Dawn Abbey Inc. Permission is granted to reproduce and resize this design for personal use only. No commercial use is allowed. © WonderUnder is the copyright of PCP Group LLC.


Quick and Easy Steps to Success! Start by preparing the fabric with Terial Magic and back it with Fusible Web. Scan the pattern provided into your Scan N Cut Machine. Place a Fabric Cutting Sheet onto your 12” mat, smoothing out all the bubbles with a rubber spatula or credit card. Line up a 6” x 12” strip of fabric at the bottom of the cutting sheet, 2.5 ” strip of green for the grass and a 3.5” x 8” rectangle for the face and legs. Add a 3.5” x 4” rectangle of dark blue into the remaining space. Use the Placement Function to place all the pieces on their corresponding fabric and cut. Remember to keep the paper side up when placing your fabric - I ruined a cutting mat when I was learning by accidentally placing the sticky side down! The grass is made of the machines jagged edge rectangle stretched out to 9 1/2” x 1 1/2”.

Peel off the paper backing. Place all your applique pieces on the block background, layering them as shown. Lift off all the top layers and press to adhere the pieces to the background fabric. Stitch the grass pieces first using a long straight stitch to create the look of individual blades. Try variegated thread for a touch of realism. Use a narrow, 3 mm satin stitch on the tail and legs. Add the body, hoofs and face. Press the body and the hoof but NOT THE FACE. Sew a basting stitch around the body one side of the face as shown. Trim away the excess fabric under the face and under the body. Sew a satin stitch all the way around all parts. Add the ears and head. Press in place and sating stitch.


Embroidery Guide

TIPS AND TRICKS FROM THE MASTERS AT EMBLIBRARY.COM WWW.EMBLIBRARY.COM


Fabrics 101 Stabilizer & Design Guide

Textiles Talk FABRICS 101 STABILIZER & DESIGN GUIDE When fabric is produced, manufacturers don't anticipate that anything will be added to it. When embroidering onto fabric, we're adding weight and tension of thread and stitches. The fabric needs to be stronger and more "stable" to support the stitches - and that is why stabilizer is used with every embroidery project. If the fabric isn't stabilized properly, you'll see less-than-stellar results. You might find shifting and gapping, puckering, dimpling, and more. Choosing the right type of design and stabilizer for your fabric is the key to getting great results. Below you will find a handy reference chart to help you select the right stabilizer and needle for creating machine embroidery on a variety of fabrics. Stabilizer/Backing

Design

Needle

Aida Cloth

Cutaway

Any.

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used.

Balsa Wood

Cutaway

Choose light designs, such as Redwork, toile, or vintage.

75/11 embroidery or universal needle

Batiste

Water soluble or tearaway

Choose light and open designs.

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used

Cutaway

Choose light designs, such as toile, vintage, Redwork, or designs with light and open areas.

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used

Burlap

Cutaway

Choose solid, stitchfilled designs. Avoid light designs (they will get lost in the weave of the burlap).

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used

Canvas

Cutaway

Any.

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used

Cutaway

Any; but be cautious of running-stitch designs (like Redwork) that may get lost in the nap of the fabric.

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used.

Cutaway

Any, but consider draping (choose open designs for better draping).

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used.

Broadcloth

Chamois

Charmeuse

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Fabrics 101 Stabilizer & Design Guide

Water-soluble

Open, airy, and light.

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used.

Cutaway

Designs of any complexity will work well. Choose small designs or designs with open areas to avoid leaking

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used.

Cutaway

If using a large design, choose open, airy, and light; if a small design, solid-filled.

75/11 sharp needle (necessary to penetrate the "dots)

Corduroy

Cutaway

Any for narrow wale; for wide wale, choose solid-filled designs (avoid running-stitch or Redwork designs).

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used.

Denim

Cutaway

Any.

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used.

Faux Fur

Cutaway

Solid-filled designs; avoid Redwork or light designs.

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used.

Faux Suede

Cutaway in most cases; tear-away with light designs

Any, but consider draping.

75/11 sharp needle (necessary for penetrating thicker fabric)

Faux Leather

Cutaway

Any, but consider draping (open designs will give the best draping).

75/11 sharp needle (necessary for leaving small perforations in the material)

Felt

Cutaway

Any.

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used.

Flannel

Cutaway

Any.

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used.

Fleece

Cutaway; tear-away may be used for simple and light designs

Any (but in some cases, running-stitch or Redwork designs may get lost in the fabric).

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery or universal needle may also be used.

Gabardine

Cutaway

Any (but consider draping).

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used.

Hemp

Cutaway

Any, but can depend on the weight of the fabric.

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used.

Chiffon

Cloth Diapers

Confetti Dot

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Fabrics 101 Stabilizer & Design Guide

Cutaway or tear-away depending on the fabric blend

Light and open designs for cotton/poly blends, solid-fill designs for sturdier 100% cotton homespun.

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used.

Cutaway

Low to medium complexity designs, or designs with open areas, will work best.

10/70, 11/75, or 12/80 sharp or embroidery needle.

Leather

Cutaway

Choose designs that have been digitized specifically for leather, or light and sheer designs.

80/12 leather needle.

Linen

Cutaway

Choose designs with open areas for best draping.

75/11 sharp needle.

Micro Pique

Cutaway

Choose light and airy designs for best draping.

75/11 sharp needle. Ball point and embroidery needles may also be used.

Microfiber

Cutaway

Choose small to medium-size stitchfilled designs.

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used.

Minkee (Microfiber Plush)

Cutaway

Choose solid-filled designs; sheer or Redwork designs will get lost in the fabric nap.

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used.

Moleskin

Cutaway; tear-away may be used for simple and light designs

Any.

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used.

Muslin

Cutaway; tear-away may be used for simple and light designs

Choose light, open, and airy designs.

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used.

Neoprene

Cutaway

Any.

75/11 sharp needle.

Cutaway

Choose designs with light to medium complexity; applique is also a great choice.

75/11 sharp needle.

Nylon Pet Screen

Water-soluble

Choose medium-tocomplex designs. Avoid light designs, such as Redwork, as those will get lost in the fabric.

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used.

Organza

Water-soluble

Choose light, open, and airy designs.

75/11 sharp needle.

Homespun

Jersey Knit

Nylon

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Fabrics 101 Stabilizer & Design Guide

Outdoor WeatherResistant (Sunbrella)

Cutaway

Any.

75/11 sharp needle.

Pashmina

Water-soluble

Choose light, open, and airy designs.

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used.

Pique

Cutaway

Choose designs of any complexity, but consider draping.

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used.

Polyester Shantung

Cutaway

Choose designs of low to medium complexity, but consider draping.

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used.

Pre-Quilted

Cutaway

Any.

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used.

PUL

Cutaway

Designs of varying complexity work well.

75/11 sharp needle (for smallest perforations)

Quilter's Cotton

Cutaway

Choose designs of low to medium complexity.

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used.

Ribbon

Cutaway

Choose designs of low to medium complexity.

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used.

Satin

Cutaway; tear-away may be used for simple and light designs

Choose designs of low to medium complexity.

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used.

Sherpa

Cutaway

Solid-filled designs; avoid sheer or Redwork designs.

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used.

Silk

Cutaway for heavier silk; tear-away for light and translucent silk

Choose light and simple designs for translucent silk; can use more complex designs with heavier silk.

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used.

Spandex

Cutaway

Choose open designs, with light to medium complexity.

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used.

Straw Hats

Tear-away or watersoluble

Any (but can depend on coloration of straw).

75/11 sharp needle.

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Fabrics 101 Stabilizer & Design Guide

Sweater Knits

Cutaway

Dependent on type of knit; choose light designs for tightlywoven knit, and more complex and filled designs for knits with a loose weave.

Sweatshirts

Cutaway

Any (but consider draping).

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used.

Taffeta

Cutaway

Choose open and airy designs for best draping.

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used.

T-Shirts (Cotton/Knit)

Cutaway

Choose designs of low to medium complexity (consider draping).

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used.

Towels (Tea, Flour Sack)

Cutaway; can use tearaway if using light or Redwork designs

Choose designs with low to medium complexity.

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used.

Cutaway

For linen towels, choose designs of any complexity. For terrycloth, choose designs of medium complexity; avoid Redwork or runningstitch designs.

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used.

Water-soluble

Light designs with open areas (avoid Redwork or running-stitch designs).

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used.

Cutaway

Designs of medium-tohigh complexity. Avoid light or running-stitch designs.

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used.

Cutaway

Choose designs with medium to high complexity. Avoid light or running-stitch designs.

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used.

Cutaway

Choose designs with low-to-medium complexity. Avoid very complex designs.

75/11 sharp needle.

Cutaway

Choose designs with medium to high complexity. Avoid light, sheer, or running-stitch designs.

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used.

Towels (Terrycloth, Linen)

Tulle

Velour

Velvet

Vinyl / Oilcloth

Waffle Weave

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75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used.


Fabrics 101 Stabilizer & Design Guide

Wool

Cutaway

Any, but consider the weight of the wool. For lightweight, choose light and airy designs for the best draping.

75/11 sharp needle. An embroidery needle may also be used.

Brands of stabilizer: Each brand and type of stabilizer has strengths and weaknesses, and everyone has their favorites. Here's what we use: Cutaway. Choosing a soft and pliable cutaway stabilizer (nothing stiff) will bring the best results, both during embroidery and during wear/use/laundering of the item as well. We use a 2.5 ounce cutaway called Soft-n-Stable made by Brother. We also enjoy a wide variety of the Floriani cutaway products (in particular, No-Show Mesh). Tear-away. We get great results with Terradon Clean Tear, as well as Floriani tear-away products. Water-Soluble. Vilene (a fibrous water-soluble product) is a dream to work with when making freestanding lace items. We've also used Sulky Ultra Solvy with excellent results. Notes about needles: We prefer to use a size 11 sharp needle (not an embroidery needle) in all of our projects. A sharp needle has a fine and small point, whereas an embroidery needle has a rounded tip. A sharp needle will give a crisper and neater look to the stitches than an embroidery needle. When embroidering and using a cutaway backing, you can use an embroidery needle instead of a sharp needle (the difference in the results will likely be negligible). However, if you are using tear-away or water-soluble stabilizer (for in-the-hoop or freestanding lace projects), always use a sharp needle. Using an embroidery or universal needle will rip, tear, or leave large holes in the stabilizer. That can cause misalignment issues, as well as thread looping, breaks, and other tension problems. Questions or comments? Send us an email! The address is stitch@emblibrary.com.

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Call to book a demo today! Designer Dewing Center: 317-768-3023 8 South Main Street, Whitestown, 46075


Prize Winners!

Grand Opening Prize Winners!

Congratulations to our 16 Lucky Winners of a $165 Gift Certificate! 1. Rick Whiteman

9. Jessica Lile

2. Melissa Howell

10. Crystal Reichert

3. Ruth Anne Emmert

11. Donna Stackhouse

4. Betty Chelf

12. Eileen Adam

5. Carla McFarlane

13. Abbie Samson

6. Robert Gunmere

14. Barbara Zajdel

7. Shelley Peters

15. Nancy Richardson

8. Bonnie Pfister

16. Cheryl Hamilton

Thank you to all our students and customers for your wonderful support during our Grand Opening! Those listed above please call the store at 317-768-3023 or come in to Designer Sewing Center, 8 S Main St. Suite 103, to claim your prize! All prizes must be claimed by 3/31/2016. Prizes must be used by 06/30/2016. Unclaimed prizes will result in a new drawing and your unclaimed prized will be passed on to another person. Prizes have no cash value.


Got a Passion for Fashion?

Join the Sutura Club! Membership to The Sutura Club is included with your program! Take advantage of special savings on fabrics, exclusive events, demos, and more.

Visit us online or in store for more information!

Copyright Š 2016 Dawn Abbey Inc. 8 South Main Street, Whitestown, IN, 46075 www.dawnabbey.com All rights reserved. No part of this booklet may be reproduced in any form, unless otherwise stated. Dawn Abbey Inc assumes no responsibility whatsoever for the use of the information herein. The information in this booklet is presented in good faith, but no warranty is given, nor results guaranteed. Dawn Abbey Inc. disclaims all liability from any injury to anyone undertaking the activities described in this book as a result of improper safety precautions. Since we have no control over physical conditions surrounding the application of information taught or herein contained, Dawn Abbey Inc. disclaims any liability for untoward results.

Designer Sewing Center

8 S. Main St

Whitestown, IN

317-768-3023

www.designersewingcenter.com


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