ADDITIONAL TRAINING MATERIALS FOR BALTIKA STORES
ADDITIONAL TRAINING MATERIALS FOR BALTIKA SHOPS
Compiled by Sven Blehner 2017
Table of Contents 1. Colour Matching 101 ......................................................... 1 Colour Wheel ................................................................................................................ 1 Tints, Shades, and Tones............................................................................................. 3 Colour Harmonies - Basic techniques for creating colour schemes ........................... 4 Colours: Skin and Hair ............................................................................................... 13
2. Body Types and Clothes .................................................. 15 Women and Body Types ............................................................................................. 15 Men and Body Types ................................................................................................ 24
3. Dress Code ..................................................................... 31 Dress Code for Men .................................................................................................... 31 How to Wear a Suit.................................................................................................... 43 Neckties, Bow Ties, Pocket Squares, Scarves ........................................................... 46 Dress Code for Women............................................................................................... 61
4. On Combining Prints/Patterns ....................................... 72 5. Types of Fabric Weaves .................................................. 79 6. Baltman Fabrics ............................................................ 84 Birth of Woollen Fabrics ........................................................................................... 87 Classification of Woollen Fibres ............................................................................... 88 Shirt Materials ........................................................................................................... 89 Outerwear Fabrics and Performance ........................................................................ 90
7. Notes .............................................................................. 93
1. Colour Matching 101 With colours, you can set a mood, attract attention, or make a statement. You can use colour to energize, or to cool down. By selecting the right colour scheme, you can create an ambiance of elegance, warmth or tranquillity, or you can convey an image of playful youthfulness. Colour can be your most powerful design element if you learn to use it effectively. Matching clothes to make an outfit may be subjective, but colour is an objective reality. That being said, understanding colour theory can make life easier when matching clothing. Knowing how colours are created tells us how and why they are related to each other.
Colour Wheel The colour wheel or colour circle is the basic tool for combining colours. The colour wheel is designed so that virtually any colours you pick from it will look good together. Traditionally, there are a number of colour combinations that are considered especially pleasing. These are called colour harmonies or colour chords and they consist of two or more colours with a fixed relation in the colour wheel.
1
Primary, Secondary and Tertiary Colours The primary colours are red, yellow, and blue. The three secondary colours (green, orange and purple) are created by mixing two primary colours. Another six tertiary colours are created by mixing primary and secondary colours. The illustration on the left shows the colour circle with the primary, secondary and tertiary colours.
Warm and cool colours The colour circle can be divided into warm and cool colours. Warm colours are vivid and energetic, and tend to advance in space. Cool colours give an impression of calm, and create a soothing impression. White, black and grey are considered to be neutral
2
Tints, Shades, and Tones These terms are often used incorrectly, although they describe fairly simple colour concepts. If a colour is made lighter by adding white, the result is called a tint. If black is added, the darker version is called a shade. And if grey is added, the result is a different tone. Tints, shades, and tones are good for softening colours while making bolder combinations. They are also an excellent way to bring colours closer together for easier matching. Tints - adding white to a pure hue:
Shades - adding black to a pure hue:
Tones - adding grey to a pure hue:
3
Colour Harmonies - Basic techniques for creating colour schemes Below are shown the basic colour chords based on the colour wheel.
Complementary colour scheme Colours that are opposite each other on the colour wheel are considered to be complementary colours (example: red and green). The high contrast of complementary colours creates a vibrant look especially when used at full saturation. This colour scheme must be managed well so it is not jarring. Complementary colour schemes are tricky to use in large doses, but work well when you want something to stand out.
Analogous colour scheme Analogous colour schemes use colours that are next to each other on the colour wheel. They usually match well and create serene and comfortable designs. Analogous colour schemes are often found in nature and are harmonious and pleasing to the eye. Make sure you have enough contrast when choosing an analogous colour scheme. Choose one colour to dominate, a second to support. The third colour is used (along with black, white or grey) as an accent.
4
Triadic colour scheme A triadic colour scheme uses colours that are evenly spaced around the colour wheel. Triadic colour schemes tend to be quite vibrant, even if you use pale or unsaturated versions of your hues. To use a triadic harmony successfully, the colours should be carefully balanced - let one colour dominate and use the two others for accent.
Split-Complementary colour scheme The split-complementary colour scheme is a variation of the complementary colour scheme. In addition to the base colour, it uses the two colours adjacent to its complement. This colour scheme has the same strong visual contrast as the complementary colour scheme, but has less tension. The split-complimentary colour scheme is often a good choice for beginners, because it is difficult to mess up.
Rectangle (tetradic) colour scheme The rectangle or tetradic colour scheme uses four colours arranged into two complementary pairs. This rich colour scheme offers plenty of possibilities for variation. Tetradic colour schemes works best if you let one colour be dominant. You should also pay attention to the balance between warm and cool colours in your design
5
Square colour scheme The square colour scheme is similar to the rectangle, but with all four colours spaced evenly around the colour circle. Square colour schemes work best if you let one colour be dominant. You should also pay attention to the balance between warm and cool colours in your design.
Since colours that are related are natural matches, understanding this relationship will make mixing and matching clothing easy and fun.
6
Achromatic Colour Matching This scheme is the only one out of the colour wheel as it only uses neutral colours. Unlike other creative fields, in fashion neutral colours include not only white, grey, and black, but also beige, silver, and gold. These are go-to colours; they will look right with any colour of the wheel.
Left: a grey monotone. Right: black and gold achromatic colour scheme.
Monochromatic Colour-Matching The easiest way to match clothes is to use a monochromatic colour scheme. A monochromatic colour scheme features a lighter and darker version of the same colour. Pairing a light blue top with a dark blue bottom can be called monochromatic matching. A colour will always match a whiter, greyer, or blacker version of itself. An outfit utilizing a monochromatic colour scheme of blues.
An outfit utilizing a monochromatic colour scheme of a deep yellow top and lighter yellow skirt.
7
Analogous Colours and the “Colour Bloodline” On a colour wheel, colours adjacent or next to each other are called analogous. If we think of colour as a family bloodline, the closer we are to the “parent” colour, the easier the match. For example, when we add a small bit of yellow to red (going clockwise on the colour wheel) the result is redorange. Red-orange and red are easily matched because they are colours of the same colour bloodline, that is, the red bloodline that is dominant in both colours. Analogous colour scheme gives one a sophisticated look. For this combination, there should be a core colour (e.g., blue) and one or two colours from any side of it. For instance, if core colour is blue, the analogous scheme could be blue, blue-purple, and purple; blue, blue-green, and blue-purple; or blue, blue-green, and green. Monochromatic and analogous colour matching are the most intuitive and therefore the most popular type of colour matching. But there are other more compelling methods of matching as well. 1) An example of analogous colour matching. Blue and purple are close to each other on the colour wheel and are therefore an easy match. 2) Using blue, blue-green, and green, the picture on the right also plays with colour values; the blue in the jacket is somewhat dark, the shirt contrasts in a light bluegreen, and the tie complements with an almost medium green
8
For example, red and redorange are adjacent on the colour wheel and are therefore called analogous. That makes them a natural match.
Complementary Colour Matching Complements are colours that are opposite each other on the colour wheel and they do not share a common colour bloodline. Complements stand out very distinctly against each other and, generally speaking, are more difficult to match compared to colours that do share a common colour bloodline. The complements of the primary colours—red, yellow, and blue—are, respectively, the secondary colours—green, violet, and orange. Complements represent visual dissonance in that the eye will not readily flow from one to the other. Because of this effect, complementary colours in clothing are generally perceived to clash. Left: yellow and purple are complementary colours and create a stark contrast. Right: The complement of a colour modified complements of orange and represents the missing primary purple-blue make for a more pleasing colour that is not part of its match. bloodline. Green—a mix of blue and yellow—is the complement of red because red is the missing primary colour that was not used in creating green. When you consider the bloodline of green and red, all three primary colours are found. In this sense, green visually completes red, ergo, it is the complement of red. However, there are always ways to make colours a better match. For example, the relationship between blue and orange can easily be changed by adding another colour to both. Add a bit of yellow to orange and you get a yellow-orange. Add a bit of yellow to blue you get a yellow-blue. In the image on the left, yellow has been added to both the blue top and the orange bottom. Since both colours now share a bit of a common colour, and have been reduced in intensity, they are now more easily matched. The same holds true if you add a bit of red to both colours; the resulting redorange and a purple-blue would be a better match.
9
Triadic Colour Matching This is one of the most difficult schemes to master as it uses three contrasting colours. However, a good use of values will do the trick. The triadic scheme takes three equidistant colours in the colour wheel. To find the accent colours, one should count four colours to the left and right of the core colour. For instance, the accent colours for blue are yellow and red. The outfit in the picture on the right is a good example of how to create harmony out of values and the arrangement of colour. The light tints of yellow in the tee contrast the shades of blue in the jacket; if that tee were pure yellow the combination would not be this pleasing. It is also clear that blue is the core colour, yellow the first accent colour, and red the second accent colour. It is important to remember that arranging colours is all about hierarchy; the first accent colour should be worn less than the core colour, and the second accent colour less than the first accent colour. The second accent colour is usually used in small details like belts, shoelaces, or a small accessory.
Split Complementary Colour Scheme When using this approach, one should pick any colour and the two adjacent to its complementary. In the picture on the right, the tie adds dynamism to the outfit thanks to the contrast of yellow-orange against blue and purple.
10
Tetradic Colour Matching Using two complementary pairs, the tetrad is the richest and most dynamic scheme. Even though dealing with four colours may sound crazy, keeping a dominant core colour will make the outfit look great. For a rectangular colour scheme, one should pick a core colour and its complementary colour. The third colour is picked two colours to the left or right from the core colour. The fourth colour will be the complementary of the third colour. Together, they trace a rectangular shape. In the example, the core colour, blue, appears in the jeans and dominates most of the shirt. Blue’s complementary, orange, is present as a shade in the leather belt. The third colour and its complementary, yellow and purple, are part of the chequered shirt. This casual outfit is a fine illustration of the dynamism of four colour schemes. Using a tetrad approach wisely will make one look stylish and cool rather than flashy or tacky.
11
How many colours are too many? There is no right answer to that question. What is certain is that the more colours one wears, the more risks one takes. More than four colours, including neutrals, are not recommended. One should stick to the chosen colour scheme and ensure that the core colour is dominating. A few recommendations: Make values work for you; varying lighter and darker versions of every colour creates contrasts that make your outfit more appealing. Never ignore colours present in multicolour garments like those with prints and patterns; they are arranged in a particular scheme. Identify it using the colour wheel and extend it throughout the outfit. Wear neutral colours when the moment demands respect; occasions like funerals or very formal meetings are not the right place to showcase how outgoing and fun you are.
Modifying with tints, tones, and shades. You can create a tint of a colour by adding white, a tone by adding grey, and a shade by adding black. Making any of these adjustments can also help to increase the visual harmony between colours. All of these mixes affect the colour and thereby modify its relationship with other colours. You can also modify a colour by adding a bit of its complement. For example, if you add some green to red, you will soften the red and push it towards a red-brown. The resulting muted red-brown is more in a traditional harmony with the green because the two colours now share a part of a common bloodline. Visual Proportions Affect Colour Relationships. A large bright orange article of clothing against a bright blue can be overwhelming. On the other hand, a smaller portion of one colour against another can be quite appealing. The proportion of one colour against another is part of their overall colour relationship. For example, a yellow purse with a purple dress (two complements) can be a visually interesting dynamic and a blue shawl on an orange dress is also workable.
12
Colours: Skin and Hair As choosing the wrong colour can make your skin and hair appear dull, choosing the right colours for your skin tone can make you look vibrant Although individuals’ colouration spans a very wide range of tones, there are only two basic types of skin tone: warm and cool. Warm complexions have yellow undertones, whereas cool complexions have pink undertones. Though your skin may grow lighter or darker depending on how tan you are, your skin tone will remain constant. Neutral may be considered the third skin tone. There are several ways to determine the skin tone: 1. Examine your veins: The skin on your wrist, elbows, and temples is very thin and has blood vessels close to the surface. If your skin colour is light enough, you’ll be able to see the veins through the skin in these three locations. If your veins have an olive or greenish colour, you are warm-toned. If your veins have a bluish colour, you are cool-toned. If you can’t really tell, or if there is a mix of both colours, you are neutral-toned. 2. The “white paper test”: As the skin on your face often has reddish tones that might lead you to believe you’re cool-toned, use the skin on your throat and chest for this test, not on your face. Hold a piece of clean white paper up to your throat and chest. Look at what colours jump out of your skin when juxtaposed against the white piece of paper. Blue and pink colours mean you have cool-toned skin. Green and gold colours mean you have warm-toned skin. The colouration for neutrals might fluctuate depending on the time of year and sun exposure.
3. The “jewellery test”: Use necklaces or bracelets to analyse your colouration. You need gold and silver jewellery for this test. Under good natural lighting, look at how your skin appears against each colour of jewellery.
Which metal makes your skin look brighter and healthier? If you prefer gold against your skin, you are warm-toned. If you prefer silver against your skin, you are cool-toned.
4. Response to sun exposure: People with cool-toned skin tend to get sunburn more easily, whereas people with warm-toned skin tend to tan, rather than burn. Don’t overexpose yourself to the sun just to check whether your skin burns or tans! Instead, rely on past experience. If you have painful memories of sunburn, you’re probably cool-toned. If you can’t recall every getting sunburn, you’re probably warm-toned. If you find that you neither burn nor tan, or that your burns quickly heal into a tan, you are probably neutral-toned.
13
5. Determining your season. Though in the previous section, you determined whether you were cool or warm-toned, there are two further subdivisions within these two categories. Summer and winter are both cool tones, whereas spring and autumn are both warm tones. Summer: your skin has blue, red, or pink undertones during the white paper test; your hair and eye colour contrasts gently against your skin colour. Winter: your skin has blue, red, or pink undertones during the white paper test; your skin contrast sharply against your hair and eye colour (pale skin and black hair, for example) Spring: your skin has golden, cream, and peach undertones during the white paper test. Springs often have straw-coloured or strawberry red hair, freckles, rosy cheeks, and blue or green eyes. Autumn: your skin has golden, warm or yellow undertones during the white paper test.
Clothes that match your skin tone: Summer: wear clothes in lilac and pale blue, and pastel and soft neutral shades with rose undertones. Softer colours will work better than vibrant ones. Bring out stark colours like black and orange only for the Halloween. Winter: wear clothes with blue or pink undertones, or sharp colours like white, black, and navy blue. Keep away from light browns. Spring: wear clothes with yellow and orange undertones like peach, ochre, and coral. Avoid black and white. Autumn: wear warm, deep, earthy colours like coffee, caramel, beige, tomato red, and green. White and black will not do you any justice.
Some colours, however, look good on everyone across the board, so people of all different skin tones should try out bright red, pale pink, dark purple, and teal. One’s hair colour may be adjusted to bring out one’s complexion. Changing one’s hair colour to match with one’s skin tone can go a long way toward making one’s complexion look bright and fresh. Warm-toned skin with yellow/gold undertones: choose deep brown shades like chestnut and mahogany; coppery reds work well as highlights. Cool-toned skin with blue/red undertones: your skin will work well with contrast, so look for intense colours in brown, red, or blonde. Ruddy, reddish complexion: beige, honey, and golden hues will even out a ruddy complexion. To put it in slightly different terms, light skin tones look better in dark colours, medium skin tones look best with the primary colours and darker skin tones pull off whites and pale colours really well.
14
2. Body Types and Clothes Women and Body Types Body shapes may be divided into many category according to vertical and horizontal features, however, in this manual, we will limit ourselves to seven basic body types defined by the width of shoulders, the waist, and the widest point of the hips. Bust sizes does not come into the picture because it is a ‘body variation’. The seven types are as follows: 8 -shape (high hip hourglass) A-shape (pear) I-shape (boyish) O-shape (apple) V-shape (inverted triangle) X-shape (low hip hourglass). H-shape (rectangle)
8-shape An 8-shape body has balanced shoulders and hips (approximately the same with). Some 8-shapes, however, have narrower sloped shoulders, and wider hips, and should, therefore, dress their upper body like an A shape, and lower body like an 8 shape. 8-shapes often feel they carry their weight in the behind. Clothes that suit an 8-shape best have waist definition, and are straight through the lower half (not flared or A-line). Most 8s find that anything boxy or square, without waist shaping tends to be too tight across their high hip area. 8s can have either equal width shoulders to hips, or narrower shoulders to hips. If the latter, then the upper body should be dressed according to A-shape and the lower according to 8-shape. For 8s, straight or boot cut jeans work well. Avoid wide leg trousers and jeans. Slim, flat-front trousers work well. Avoid pleats at the waist as they will be pulled open and create unnecessary bulk. Skirts are best when they are straight. They can flare from the knee, but not from the hip. Avoid skirts that are gathered or pleated from the waist, unless they are that 1950s flounce style. Cropped jackets work for 8s, as do belted styles such as trench coats. Peplums were made for 8-shapes. Double breasted jackets and coats are not good for 8-shapes, there isn’t usually enough shaping and the extra fabric creates bulk. 15
Additional tips: Try belting over a long line cardigan in a fine knit. Make sure that you don’t have obvious pocket detail over your high hip area, look for coats and jackets with pockets set into the garment, rather than stitched onto the outside. Wide waistbands work well on trousers and skirts. Feel free to try a variety of belts at your natural waist, if you have a shorter waist try a thinner belt, if you have a longer waist you may be able to do a wider belt. You may or may not have a rounded bottom, though rounded bottoms are more common amongst 8 shapes. If you do, avoid flap pockets on jeans. Open necklines look great on 8-shapes; they draw attention up toward your face. Look for detail around the neckline to help do this. If you have narrower shoulders, look for puffed sleeves, shoulder detail and ruched sleeves to balance your bottom.
A-shape The widest part of an A-shaped body is below the waist (around the hips). A person may be tall, short, skinny, or heavy and still be an A. An A-shape looks good in clothes that elongate the figure, so that one looks less bottomheavy. The first thing is to balance the hips and the shoulders while still showing off the curves. An A should always wear something darker and slimming on the bottom, like dark jeans or slacks, or a dark knee-length pencil skirt or A-line skirt. That does not mean that an A always has to wear black on the bottom, but the bottom should be solid in colour and darker than the top. An A should direct attention to the tops. Fun colours, prints, or details at the neck all serve the purpose of drawing the eye away from the hip area. However, the tops should not end at the hips because that would draw unnecessary attention there. For example, one can combine tailored, flared pants with an attractive, eye-catching top to play up an A’s best features.
16
Additional tips: Go for clean, tailored lines on the bottom. Whatever you wear on the bottom should always be more tailored, such as flat front pants. With skirts, the Aline or flared skirt is a great piece to use as a base to accentuate a beautiful selection of tops. Stay away from pleats, side pockets, or anything that is going to add dimension to this area. If you wear a belt, make sure it’s slim and the same colour as your pants. If you belt a dress, make sure the belt sits higher up at your waistline rather than your hips. Better yet, wear a top that’s gathered around the stomach. Doing so hides your tummy if you need to, while creating dimension someplace other than your hips. Wear pants or jeans that have a flare on the bottom. A flared leg draws the eye away from your hips and creates a more flattering line for your whole body. Conversely, stay away from Capri or tapered pants. They drive the eye right to the hips. You can wear a tunic top or dress as long as it fits properly. (Don’t wear a tunic top or dress if it’s in any way clinging to your belly or your hips.) One that fits properly gives a clean, elongating line while camouflaging everything underneath. The great thing about this style is that it accentuates your arms and your whole upper body and makes you appear taller and leaner at the same time. Jackets are great for A-shaped people because they usually have interesting details around the neckline and give more structure to the shoulder area, where you’re trying to direct the focus. When wearing a jacket, choose one that ends past your hips, not at them. A longer jacket, such as a cute blazer, creates a long, lean line and covers the hip area. Use a cute top or a scarf to take the focus off the bottom half. A deeper, more plunging neckline elongates your upper body and draws all the attention upward. Try wearing a long necklace to fill in the neckline, which also adds to the lengthening of your upper body. Wear off-the-shoulder tops that expose one or both shoulders. These tops immediately attract attention and steer the eye exactly where you want it. Ruffles or puffy sleeves on your top are also great for A-s. Choose materials that hold their form like wool slacks or denim. They flatter and streamline your shape. Avoid any tight knits on the bottom because they cling and accentuate your width.
17
I-shape This is the shape of models, very slim, which many would call boyish. I-shapes tend to have similar width shoulders and hips with a fairly undefined waist. They are very lean and often feel that they lack feminine curves. There are similarities to the H shape, but they are slimmer than and not as broad as an H shape. You may wish to add some curve to your body, to make it look more feminine. To do this, think about adding detail where the feminine normally curves – bust, waist, butt, and thighs. Cinching in the waist is another great way for creating curves. Make sure your fabrics aren’t too soft and drapey, look for stiffer fabrics to give you some more substance. A dress with a tulip skirt or some sort of circle, Aline or flared skirt will add some definition to the hips. The extended shoulder and sleeve detail on this dress also broaden the shoulders to give the illusion of there being more curve to the body. Sweetheart necklines can also work, as will boat necks, and spaghetti strap dresses. Wrap tops are great to give the impression of a waist, a wide V-neck will give you the illusion of broader shoulders and a narrower waist. Detail on the bust will make you look curvier up top. Geometric patterns on a stretch fabric will also add curve as the garment stretches over your body. A turtleneck top with capped sleeves will add some shape and volume to your bust. Coats can have pocket detail, belts and detail. Double breasted styles also work well your body. Jeans and trousers need pockets at the hips. You can also wear pleat front trousers, pocket flaps on jeans and any other sort of embroidery or embellishment. The skinny leg (stovepipe) jean was made for your body.
18
H-shape The H has practically no waist because there is very little space between rib cage and the pelvis. The waist, hip, and shoulder widths are similar. The arms and legs are usually slender and the best asset of an H. So the rules are – no waist details – no belts at the waist (no trench coats), no tucking shirts, no pockets on jackets around the waist. Look for tops that bypass the waist: they need to be shaped to create the illusion that you have more of a waist (so nothing boxy either), but not to highlight the area. Finish tops around the hip bone, or a little lower if your thighs aren’t wider than your bottom and you have longer legs. Dresses should be empire in line, as just below your bust is the narrowest point on your body, highlight this, then skim past the waist. The wrap dress is not for you as it will make you look boxier. It’s more likely, unless you’re petite, that you have longer legs – so show them off. Skirts with asymmetrical hems, ruffled hems, straight skirts, skirts with pattern or detail below the hips. Pants can be straight leg, boot leg, wide leg – you have more choices than many. Which is most flattering will depend on the length of your legs and your thigh shape. Jackets should be free of patch pockets and be shaped through the waist in their construction. Single breasted is best. A lower button closure (not high up the neck) will give you more waist. Coats can be 3/4 or long (depending on your height), and should also be shaped, but not belted or double breasted, which will add to your boxiness.
19
O-shape The O- or apple shape is the least common. To be an O shape, your mid-section needs to be wider than hips and shoulders. It tends to appear in the post-menopausal woman when oestrogen is no longer produced in the same quantity, which may lead to thickening around the waists. An O is most likely to have been an H shape that is overweight; it’s unlikely that an X, A, or 8 will turn into an O, as they have the longer bodies which tend to retain a waisted shape. The guide to dressing the O shaped body is to bypass the waist – don’t belt or draw attention to the widest section. Look for shapes that flow past, and focus attention on your face and legs. V-neck, empire line tops and dresses work really well for you, as they skim past your stomach, draw attention to your face. Wearing a cotton/lycra tank top underneath will smooth out bumps and also stop too much cleavage being revealed, plus provide a little extra coverage if you choose a lovely light flowing fabric like chiffon, georgette, silks or rayons. Avoid high necklines, they will make you look dumpy, instead look for wider open necklines. Look for dresses that finish at the knee to show off your shapely calves. Pants or trousers need to fall in a straight line from the hip and skim your waist – that means no pleats. Look for straight, bootleg, or wide leg trousers. Also avoid any sort of pocket detail near the waist so as not to draw attention there (that means cargo pants are out). Tapered styles are also a no-no (please don’t be tempted). Longer line jackets that skim past your waist can also flatter. Jackets are best worn open to create 2 slimming verticals. 20
V-shape To be a V shape, your shoulders need to be wider than your hips by at least five centimetres. You may or may not have a waist. Many V shapes have a shorter waist. If so, use the tips from the H shape through your waist area – that is no tucking, detail, pockets, belts, gathering, pleats, etc., at the waist in order not to draw attention to your lack of waist. If you are one of the lucky ones to have a waist, follow the tips from the X shape to highlight it. What we need to do is create balance and make your hips a little curvier. That means you are basically the opposite of the A shape, which means you pretty much should not do anything they do. Tops look great with narrower openings such as narrow V necks, crew necks (especially if you have smaller breasts), keyhole necklines, gathered necklines, etc. If you have a shorter neck, look for lower necklines to elongate it. If you have a long neck and a smaller bust, go for higher necklines like crew and turtlenecks. Look for raglan sleeves, halter necks, dolman sleeves, and kimono sleeves because they will visually narrow your shoulders. Avoid puffed sleeves and epaulets, and any kind of shoulder detail. Flared or wider cuffs will also balance your figure, as will hems that end around your hips. If you have narrow hips, try wearing slightly longer tops that end at the widest point of your hips, this will add more curve. If you don’t want to draw attention to your hips go for tops that end just under your hip bone. Narrow lapels or no lapels are best on jackets. Collarless jackets and those with modified collars, like the mandarin collar, work well for you. Jackets can end at the hip bone or below. Generally, cropped jackets will make you look boxier and are better avoided. Boyfriend styles may work on your shape.
21
Coats can have patch pockets on the hips to add some curves. Jeans and trousers can also have pocket detail, so cargo pants will work for you too. Jeans can be straight, skinny or flare to balance your shoulders. Skirts need to be flared or pleated from a dropped waist if you want to create a more feminine shape, bias cuts also work really well for you if you do not have saddlebags, and a tapered pencil skirt is another option if teamed with a shoulder diminishing top. Patterned skirts will also draw attention and balance your figure. Skirts should have a lighter colour than your tops. If your shoulders are significantly wider, avoid straight shaped skirts. If you are only a bit wider you can wear straight, A-line, and flared skirts all equally well. Halter neck dresses are fabulous on you. Avoid waist definition unless you have a defined waist. Go for empire lines (just below the bust) as this will be your narrowest point. Detail and pattern on the bottom of the dress will also help to create more curve. Avoid spaghetti straps – they just make your shoulders look broader. Shift dresses, shirt dresses and bias cut dresses can all be options for you. Longer necklaces that fall to the bust or below can really work well on V shapes as it helps to create an elongating line down the front of your body. If you are long-waisted, try belting. A tunic top that is not fitted and just hangs off your shoulders may need some definition and a belt can make a difference. Lower hip belts may work better than waist belts. Wear a darker top and lighter bottom to help balance your proportions.
22
X-shape The X shape body has shoulders and hips relatively the same size, and a defined waist. When viewed from the front, the widest part of the body is the thighs. The waist is more than 23 centimetres smaller than the hips or shoulders. When you feel the back of the hip from the waist, the hand should glide smoothly down, there is not a ‘shelf’ at the high hip. To dress your X shaped body, look for garments that define the waist – show off that you have a small waist, and broaden the shoulders and draw attention up to the face by wearing wider necklines such as wide Vs, square, scoop and sweethearts. Tops and jackets should end around the hip bone (or high hip). If you wear longer tops they’ll draw attention to the size of your thighs and make them look larger. Coats should end above the knee if you don’t have long legs. Look for the ones that have discreet pockets in the seams of the jacket and that are fitted at the waist. Look for A line skirts, or skirts with some flare. Wrap dresses are great for your body as they highlight your waist and should fall smoothly over your curves. Bootleg jeans are the most flattering as they balance the hips. Make sure that they do not narrow too much at your knee, but fall straighter from your thighs to the knees and have a slight flare at the hem. Trousers should be either straight or bootleg; wide-legs are fine too if you have longer legs. A centre crease will slim and elongate your legs. Add detail to the upper body, and keep it simple and detail free on your lower body, especially around the hips (so no patch pockets on jeans or trousers, no big pockets at the hips on jackets or coats, and no cuffs on trousers). Avoid double hems on tops that end around your hips/thighs as they draw a widening line across them. 23
Men and Body Types The general principles of emphasizing and de-emphasizing work for men as well. The main difference is that for men, you do not want to create a curvier look, but rather create the trapezoid shape. Broadly speaking, men may be divided into five main body types: the average build (trapezoid shape), the inverted triangle, the rectangle, the triangle, and the oval.
Trapezoid Shape Shoulders are broader than the midsection, and the legs are lean, but still with definition. Trapezoids likely go to the gym occasionally, and are not bulking up. Muscles are defined, but not overtly athletic. If you have a trapezoid body, you probably have easier time dressing yourself than others. Basically, there is a natural visual balance between your upper body and your waist, so wearing something slightly oversized or something slightly are not going to mess up your visual proportions too much. Unlike the other general body shapes on this list, you are also quite flexible when it comes to wearing prints. While there are usually general rules regarding what body types should avoid horizontal or vertical stripes, you have the visual balance to pull off either while not appearing stretched out (in the case of vertical stripes) or widened (in the case of horizontal stripes). More to the point, you have slight definition, so emphasize it to make you look lean and athletic. With this body type being easy to dress, that makes it the perfect canvas for experimenting with new trends. Why not try out bold patterns and or different shapes. If you're dressing up for formal events, keep your trousers tapered, and your jackets too. This will emphasize the outline of your shape in a positive way, without leaving you with a billowing bottom half, or busting out of the lapels of your jacket.
24
Inverted Triangle Shape Simply put, this is the athlete. This shape is similar to the trapezoid shape that the “average” build may have, but with more extreme proportions. Moderate to heavy muscle definition means that your shoulders are broad; with a narrow, defined waist, and muscular arms and legs. While slimmer guys may find that they can throw on a medium shirt right off the rack and walk out, you need some extra assistance when it comes to shirting. Considering your chest is broad, the conventional wisdom is that you should wear a Vneck. This creates a natural visual line that narrows your chest and draws the eye to your trim waistline. If you do not like wearing V-necks, opt for crewneck shirts that utilize graphics, or horizontal stripes. Horizontal stripes (like Breton Stripes) broaden the figure. While this is ill advised if you're packing extra weight around your middle, the fact that your stomach is lean means that you can aesthetically add to this part of your figure without looking wide. Always look for shirting that can accommodate your brawnier upper body, chest, and arms, while going for a tailored waist. If you're looking for a department store trick, try going for a shirt that says “slim fit,” just buy one size larger than you normally would. When it comes to bottoms, look for “slim” items, but not skinny. While your time on the treadmill may leave you able to fit into something skinny, your pants have a high chance of looking like running leggings. This does not mean you should only wear straight leg trousers, just be mindful of when too skinny is, well, too skinny. For suiting, opt for double breasted suits, but be cautious. Double breasted jackets make the body look bulky in the upper body, but when sculpted, can support the added visual weight of the shoulders and chest, while emphasizing a narrow waist. Think of a dark coloured, unstructured suit. You want to be aesthetically supported, but not disproportionate. Blazers with two back vents are usually a better option than those with a single one. 25
A few tips: Add a belt for focus around the hips to help break up and outfit while also drawing attention to this area. Wear Breton striped tees- while classic in style, they are also ideal for a man with this shape, especially if the stripes focus around the stomach rather than the chest. Choose V-neck shirts and jumpers as they draw the eye down and take attention away from the chest. Try statement printed legwear to once again draw the eye downward. Opt for unstructured double-breasted jackets as this will widen the torso into proportion with the shoulders. Avoid structured jackets with shoulder padding or wide lapels, for they will just further emphasize the widest area.
Rectangle Shape Skinny as a rail, or simply narrow in build, like a rectangle this body type is straight up and down. More pointedly, the waist and the shoulders are the same width apart. This distinction makes this shape deviate slightly from an average, or athletic build, where the hips and waist are narrower than the shoulders and chest. While this does not necessarily mean that you are skinny or undefined, it is more of a shape that is less likely to show muscle definition, or simply appears narrow. The name of the game for this figure is to add definition where there is none. Adding this definition can be done in a few ways. Layering is really the simplest way to begin. With a smart layered knit, you are adding to the upper half, while emphasizing your neutral waistline. Add a jacket to create depth and visual strength in the shoulders. These things will make you look muscular, even if you are stick skinny.
26
When it comes to bottoms, you should opt for skinnier trousers. This way, you are creating an inverted triangular line that goes from your chest to your bottom. As this figure is generally lean looking, you are able to be flexible with what you wear, and still look skinny. However, be careful when buying things off the rack, as more generous cuts will leave you looking swallowed up by your clothing. You can (and should) look for “slim fit” items, especially when it comes to button-downs and suit jackets. While other guys may pass on structured blazers, look for something that fills out your shoulders and chest. A few tips: Wear structured blazers that are padded in the shoulder while narrow in the underarms. Finding this ideal fit is hard, so ask your tailor to take in the sides of your jacket and the jacket arms thinned. Layer your clothes – shirts and jumpers can be used to widen the chest, especially by wearing jumpers that are fitted in the waist. Try circular necklines to draw attention to the upper torso. Do not wear double-breasted jackets – these only emphasize the rectangular shape. Do not wear prints that mimic your rectangular shape such as photographic T-shirts. Do not wear block colours on the torso.
27
Triangle Shape While this body shape does not mean you are overweight or unhealthy, it does mean that you have got to dress around your proportions. Much of clothing design is built for the complete opposite of this shape, so how do you accommodate this figure while wearing clothes that look great? Like any of the other silhouettes, you are looking for visual balance. While your shoulders are narrow compared to your midsection, focus on adding structure up top. This means passing on polo shirts or narrow necklines (e.g., turtlenecks). Similarly, do not opt for billowy shirting. You do not want to seem like you are pinching your neck with your T-shirt. However, that does not mean you need to look like you are dressed in a burlap sack. Pay attention to colour. There is a reason black has been popular for so long—it is a slimming colour. Dark colours, like charcoal, navy, and, black, slim visually. Going all in, and being monochromatically dressed further streamlines your silhouette. If you are going to go for a print, vertical stripes are a solid solution, whereas horizontal stripes will leave you looking wider than before. When it comes to bottoms, go for straight leg trousers. By going with a slimmer leg, you increase the visual width of your waist this creating a visual imbalance that the rest of your outfit is likely trying to fight. Looking at suiting, avoid the double breasted suit, for it makes you look bulkier. Opt for a single breasted two button suit. Not only is it the most streamlined suit for your money, but its universal appeal and simple style makes it something that is a smart buy for any body type. A few tips: Focus on well-fitting clothing. Ill-fitting clothing will just further emphasise this shape. Wear single-breasted pieces and buttondown styles to streamline the torso.
28
Use structured blazers and jackets to give shape to the shoulder line. Choose darker colours up top as they are more flattering. You can add colour by layering a bright tee or Oxford shirt under a jacket or jumper. Do not wear horizontal stripes across the stomach. Try vertical stripes or pinstripes instead. Do not wear polo shirts or narrow crew necks. These styles decrease shoulder width. Do not wear skinny or heavily tapered trousers or jeans as these widen the central area of the body.
Oval Shape As the name suggests, this shape appears round particularly in the stomach area. This often results in narrower shoulders and slimness in the lower leg. Here, it is important to focus on lengthening the torso and widening the shoulders in order to make the rest of the body look more defined. Wear low rise trousers and jeans, these are jeans that sit on the hips instead of the waist, it helps give the illusion of a slimmer body by making your middle area appear smaller. Wear V necks, they give the appearance of a smaller neck and have a way of decreasing the "roundish" appearance. Get a good fit, nothing too tight...and nothing baggy. Let your trousers be as long as possible, almost hitting the floor, to give the appearance of a taller and slimmer look. Avoid shirts with too much patterns, if u do not want to go plain, go for striped or plaid shirts. Do not wear trousers that have short hems. A few tips: Vertical stripes. Like a Triangle, an Oval can benefit from a vertical stripe’s slimming effects – try a shirt or pinstripe trouser. The right length. Pay extra attention to sleeve and trouser length as any excessive gathering of fabric will only result in shortening the limbs.
29
Fitted, loosely tapered trousers. These will flatter your legs without making them appear excessively narrow or shapeless in the way skinny, tightly tapered or wide-leg styles would, respectively. Opt for stiffer solid fabrics that hold their shape. Avoid horizontal stripes, busy prints or contrast colour pops. Unless they are judiciously placed at – and restricted to – your narrower areas. Avoid statement or coloured belts and doublebreasted tailoring. Avoid boots, if you are a shorter-limbed Oval. These will make your legs appear even shorter.
In conclusion, dressing according to your body shape can take only a few tweaks to your wardrobe. Changing the fit of your jeans, buying a blazer, or starting to wear more accessories are all actions that take minimal effort but, importantly, can make a big difference to your appearance. However, fit is everything. It is the difference between looking good and ‘could do better’, and has the power to make budget highstreet pieces look superior to designer versions. Ignore its importance, and your style instantly suffers.
30
3. Dress Code Dress Code for Men White Tie The white tie dress code is one of the most formal dress codes there is and it is only worn on very formal or ceremonial occasions. Examples are state dinners, formal evening weddings, and balls. White tie is an evening dress code. This means that it can only be worn after 6 pm (or after dark). White tie for men requires attire to be worn according to the rules of the dress code. Wear a black or midnight blue dress coat, also known as an evening tailcoat. The coat has to fit exactly because it should ‘embrace’ your body. The coat has to be worn open and cannot be buttoned. The lapels can be pointed or have a shawl collar and should be made of silk satin or grosgrain. The facings should be black with a black coat or midnight blue with a midnight blue coat. The coat is mostly decorated with six buttons. Tree buttons on each side. The cuffs are in most cases also decorated with four buttons. The coat should be cut at a sharp angle in the front and should have a single vent. The trousers should be of the same fabric and the same colour as the coat. The trousers should have a wide strip or two narrow strips (braid) on both sides. Wearing a waistcoat is optional. If you choose to wear a waistcoat, go for a white one. Waistcoats are in most cases made of cotton. The opening of the waistcoat should be low so the shirt can be seen. The waistcoat can be with or without lapels. There is still confusion about the visibility of the waistcoat below the front cutaway of the coat. This varies by country. Where most Europeans usually wear the waistcoat visible below the coat, the British wear the waistcoat without being visible below the coat. Either way, the waistcoat must cover the trouser waistline. White tie for men requires a white tie shirt with a bib front. The shirt must have a detachable stand up or wing collar. The sleeves should have cuffs. The front of the shirt can be of linen or cotton and are closed with studs. As footwear, you should wear patent or highly polished leather Oxford shoes or opera pumps. As socks, you should wear black or midnight blue long socks made of silk or thin wool. The tie has to be a white bow tie. Don’t wear a belt. Wear braces instead.
31
There are just a couple possible accessories to wear with the white tie. You can choose to wear cufflinks, shirt studs or waistcoat buttons. If you’re planning to wear two or even three of those accessories, it is best to go for a matching set. Most common colours for those accessories are silver, gold or other metals with a motherof-pearl or another precious stone. Also, you can choose to wear a pocket square or a boutonnière. Never wear them both. If you choose to wear a boutonniere, we recommend it to be a gardenia. Don’t wear a watch. This is seen as impolite. The only allowed timepieces are pocket watches. Wearing a silk scarf is optional. Mostly this is worn by older men at traditional white tie events.
Additional tips: At some white tie events a military mess dress is also seen as appropriate attire for men. Wear your white tie attire traditionally according the rules. Don’t try to make it look more fashionable. In the past men wore hats to a white tie event. Nowadays a hat is rarely worn. If you want to wear a hat, be sure that it is appropriate so you won’t stand out compared with the other guests. The hat has to be black and made of silk. Where men used to wear white gloves in the past to a white tie event, nowadays this is barely worn by men. If you are attending a white tie occasion in Britain, find out if the occasion is requiring white tie worn according the traditional Britain rules or not. According to the traditional Britain rules men should wear knee-breeches and silk stockings instead of trousers
32
Black Tie Black tie is a dress code that is only worn in the evening on the following occasions: receptions, dinners, weddings, festive affairs in general, and if it is on the invitation. Black tie stands for elegant and chic. It is less formal than white tie, and is used for social functions and evening events after 6 pm. The black tie should be worn with a tuxedo. Unlike the white tie, which is very strictly regulated, black tie gives space for more variation. Wear a tuxedo or black or midnight blue suit, a black tie, tuxedo vest, a white ‘tuxedo’ shirt, black leather shoes, and long dark silk or woollen socks. Do not wear any accessories other than a pocket square. Tips: For a black tie event, you should wear a suit or a tuxedo, usually of black wool. A tuxedo is a two piece black or midnight blue suit (with a one button placket) in which the front and back are the same length and that has silk or satin lapels. The tuxedo is worn with a matching black tie. The tuxedo can be supplemented with a tuxedo vest or a cummerbund. Wear a white ‘tuxedo’ shirt with a regular collar, double cuffs, and a covered placket. Traditionally, the front of the shirt is pleated. The collar should be a foldover or winged standing collar. (Old style detachable collars or winged collars are also acceptable for this dress code, although these are extraordinarily rare nowadays.) The trousers have satin piping (gallons) to the side seams on both sides of the trousers. For the footwear, you need black smooth shoes, traditionally patent leather court shoes (pumps). You can opt for shoes without laces. Nowadays also highly polished or patent leather Oxfords are often worn. You need long black socks (stockings), usually of silk or fine wool. Leave your watch at home or in the car. With a black tie, it is seen as impolite to look at your watch during the party. Time should not be important. Do not wear any supplementing accessories.
33
Black Tie Optional If you see ‘black-tie optional’, know that a tuxedo is not required, but whoever sent the invitation will most likely be wearing one. ‘Black tie optional’ is followed usually in large business and formal gatherings, including business dinners, and can replace the typical business dressing. If your invitation specifies 'black tie optional’, it means the guests have the choice to wear the clothes described in the invitation, like a tuxedo, or personalize them a bit according to their choice/preferences. But this simply does not mean that they can wear anything of their choice. It is still necessary to wear a proper suit (black or dark midnight blue) and not a sport jacket or a funky T-shirt. Tips: If a you like wearing tuxedo and the invitation states ‘black tie optional’, then just ignore the term ‘optional’ right away and do not hesitate to wear it. You can also opt for a dark coloured suit with a dress shirt and a conventional tie along with combinational dress shoes, if you are afraid of being recognized as a waiter.
Cocktail Cocktail attire is used as a party dress code for various occasions. Depending on the situation, these can range from more formal to less formal. The outfit can be adjusted to the formality of the event or situation of the party. With this dress code, there is more space for your own interpretation than with more formal dress codes like black tie or white tie. Tips: Cocktail attire is attire that is between formal and semi-formal. At a cocktail party you are supposed to wear a suit with a tie. Mid grey and darker colours are the most appropriate for a cocktail suit. If the cocktail event takes places during the day, the suits can be lighter. A tuxedo is not considered as cocktail attire since it is too formal. Wear a shirt in white or in a light colour that matches with the colour of your suit. Keep your shirt plain, do not use funky patterns or colours.
34
Choose a tie that is in the same colour tone as your shirt and suit or another matching colour to provide a different accent. Where a solid coloured tie. When the cocktail party you are attending is more formal, a pocket square is traditionally worn. The colour of the pocket square should not be identical to the tie. You are always safe when the pocket square matches with the colour of your shirt. As footwear, choose leather dress shoes. The socks should be long and dark. Never wear sport socks. Wear a leather belt in a matching colour. Keep your accessories simple and to one or two pieces: a watch for example.
Evening Attire Evening attire are the kind of clothes that you wear to a black tie, or sometimes to a white tie event. It is less well defined than when a specific dress code is given. The good thing about this is that it gives you more space in choosing how to dress. Evening attire is a dress code that is suitable for formal events like weddings, formal garden parties, dinners, or debutante cotillions. Dress codes that are seen as appropriate for the evening are black tie and white tie. White tie is a dress code that is only worn to ultraformal events or when it is indicated in the invitation. For most evening events black tie is the required attire. For evening dress code ‘Black tie’, see the Black Tie section above.
35
Semi-Formal Semi-formal is a dress code used for occasions that are between formal and informal. This can be a range of events like weddings or dinner parties at a fancy location. This dress code is often not well defined and most people get confused when semi-formal attire is the required dress code for an event. This is because the rules for a semi-formal event are not as strict as the rules for some other dress codes like black tie or white tie. A semi-formal dress code gives you some more space for your own interpretation. There are a few misunderstandings among most men about how to dress semi-formal. Semi-formal is a dress code that is between formal and informal, so do not wear a tuxedo, but above all, do not come up underdressed. This means that jeans or khakis are not appropriate for a semi-formal event. So what do you wear to a party with a semi-formal dress code? Dressing for these kind of events is actually really easy. Just apply the following tips and you will arrive in the right attire on your upcoming event.
Tips: For semi-formal evening events, you are supposed to wear a nice dark suit. If the event takes place at daytime, a lighter suit is also optional. Make sure you always wear a jacket. Combine your suit with a plain light shirt. A tie is optional. Do not choose a tie that is too loud. Wear leather shoes in a colour that matches with the colour of your attire. Also wear plain dark coloured socks. Wear a leather belt in a colour matching with your attire. For an accessory, you might wear a watch; wearing more accessories might ruin your look.
36
Family Celebrations Family parties come in different settings. Before you get dressed for a family celebration, try to find out how formal the event is. Family parties can be formal, semi-formal, or casual depending on the event. If the family party is casual like a birthday party, you can come in khakis or jeans and clean shoes. On top, a nice T-shirt, shirt, or V-neck/Crewneck sweater will do. If the event is formal like a wedding, best wear a suit. During the party, it is possible to take off your jacket. An important rule for a family party is that when you are closely related to the celebrating family member, you are supposed to look more formal. Do not forget to wear smooth classy shoes. For a semi-formal event like a wedding anniversary, you do not have to dress formal, but jeans are certainly not done. You will best pull it off with khakis and a shirt. As for footwear, go for leather or suede shoes. Go for an outfit that shows your personality. Make sure you feel confident and comfortable in whatever you are wearing.
Have Fun and Dance – Club Every man wants to look good at a night out. To look good, you need to take a few simple rules in mind. The first and most important thing is to keep yourself groomed. The main rule for your outfit is to keep it simple. Often simple jeans, a nice T-shirt or shirt and matching shoes are enough for a casual party. Do make sure that you feel comfortable in the clothes you wear and use natural and breathable fabrics to avoid sweating. Wear your outfit with confidence. Tips: Keep your accessories simple. Wear a nice watch, a silver or leather bracelet, and a plain leather belt matching with your outfit. Wear your special shoes at the club. Wear well-fitting jeans. Make sure that the trouser legs are not too tight, too wide, too short or too long. This ruins your whole outfit. Wear a shirt, a T-shirt, or a simple thin Vneck/Crewneck sweater. Don't wear clothes that are too tight or too large. Don't wear a T-shirt or shirt with large brand names printed on it. It is not classy. Don't wear hot sweaters or sweaters with a hood. Don't overdo your accessories.
37
Casual Casual is an informal party dress code and is used for all kinds of events. The casual dress code is supposed to be comfortable and should give you the ability to express your personality. The casual dress code gives you space to dress the way you like. Some people feel good when they have the ability to express themselves, but for others it is confusing and complicated. However, choosing a nice casual outfit is easy. In principle, is possible to wear anything within a casual dress code. It is a dress code that has different meanings depending of the kind of event you are attending. This means that you have to consider what kind of outfit is appropriate for the party. Keep in mind that a party in a more formal setting requires fancier clothes than a party on the beach, for example. Remember that a casual party never requires formal clothes, so keep your tuxedos, suits, and ties at home.
Tips for a semi-formal casual party: For a fancier event, choose proper trousers or khakis. Combine your trousers or khakis with a shirt, a plain polo, or a thin woollen V-neck sweater. Choose decent shoes that match with your outfit. Try to avoid sneakers. Wear a belt to give your outfit more flair. There are no rules for accessories. However, do not to overdo your accessories – keep it simple with a nice watch or a nice bracelet. Tips for a casual party: For a casual party you can wear almost anything you like. But since you are still attending a party, do not appear in your daily or ‘out-of-bed' outfit. Choose a nice T-shirt, polo, shirt, or V-neck sweater instead. Choose nice khakis or jeans. As footwear, you can choose sneakers or shoes. You can wear a belt if you like. There are no rules for accessories; however, often less is more.
38
Morning Dress One of the most official daytime dress codes is the morning dress (also called jacquet). The morning dress is only used for classic weddings and formal receptions at daytime. Men are supposed to wear a dark suit in formal occasions (the darker the better) with a (preferably white) shirt and tie; for less formal occasions, like an outdoor summer wedding, the suit does not have to be necessarily dark and the colour of the trousers and jacket can be uneven.
New York Chic The New York chic dress code originates in the New York lifestyle. Since there is often not enough time to change clothes after work, you are supposed to wear a trendy outfit suitable for all occasions. With this dress code, you have a lot of room to choose an outfit you like. You can wear almost anything you like, as long as it is trendy, looking good (and often expensive and made by designers). The expectations are high and nothing less than the best designer clothes are meant with this dress code. There are no rules for accessories, but do wear some nice ones that give your outfit something extra without overdoing it.
39
Smart Casual Dress Code: Smart Casual. It sounds simple, but it can be a difficult balance to get right, but done correctly, you can gain something that’s not only sophisticated, but comfortable and relaxed as well. So, what is it that makes something edge away from formal or casual and evolve into the illusive smart casual? Do you just wear some jeans with a dress shirt? Slip on some trainers with your suit? Or are you just supposed to throw a blazer over your pyjamas and be done with it?
Smart casual basically means not too smart and not too casual, it means getting that informal style right. So, you could pair a blazer with a shirt, then throw on a pair of jeans and you’ve got yourself a smart casual look. At work – smart over casual: If you’re in doubt, it’s always better to be more on the smart side than the casual. As you’re working, it’s important to be professional and to reflect that in your attire. This means opting for an item like a well-ironed, collared shirt rather than a T-shirt, and shoes rather than trainers. For shirts, you can go for a solid smart oxford shirt and pair it with a more casual lower half. You can also do the opposite and try out a more casual shirt paired with something smarter like straight leg chinos. 40
If you want to step away from the less unique white oxford shirt, why not try something like a grandad collar shirt, or choose a shirt in a patterned design. This will keep the look trim and sophisticated, but not overly smart. For footwear avoid anything too laid back. As you’re going for more relaxed leg wear or shirts, you want the look to be balanced. Shoes like brogues, loafers, chukkas, or desert boots are ideal as they give a clean finish and can be matched easily with jeans or chinos. Even if you pair them with smart trousers, they’ll be able to create a look that’s more relaxed than your usual office wear. Free time – casual over smart: You don’t have to pick a boring outfit, but trying to mix too many textures and colours together can damage the look and create something that lies more towards casual than smart casual. Starting with a neutral base and adding in extra details can help you construct an outfit that’s both stylish and laid back. A clean cut white T-shirt can easily be dressed up in various smart casual outfits. Throw on some chinos and a denim jacket, or go for something smarter with a slim fit jumper, jeans, and loafers. There are various versatile pieces, such as a white oxford shirt, or a navy blazer, that can be used to dress an outfit up or down. Jeans: If you’re going for jeans for a smart casual look, there are a few things to keep in mind. On the whole, ripped, baggy or heavy washed jeans are out. They just give off too much of a casual look and it’s difficult to mix them with smart pieces. Imagine a pair of baggy jeans matched with a slim fit blazer – not a good look. Instead maintain a neutral look with dark coloured jeans in a navy or black, and keep them slim fit. Skinnies can work as long as they’re not super tight, and if you’re going for something in a looser fit, try and get a pair that’s tapered so you don’t end up with anything too baggy looking. Knitwear: It’s not always easy to get knitwear right, especially if you’re trying to make it suitable in a smart casual setting. It’s best to keep your knitwear slim fitted, as this makes it easier to pair with smarter looking pieces. You can easily choose a textured or simple patterned jumper and keep the rest of the outfit neutral in order to keep a good balance between casual and smart. You can also go for a simple jumper and keep the rest of your outfit a little more casual, going for skinny jeans or coloured chinos and trainers. This will ensure you don’t look too ‘neat’ and keep things laid back yet still with a stylish edge. 41
Outerwear: Don’t go for a hyper-formal overcoat or a scruffy jacket that you’ve worn out over the years. As you can’t mix and match like you would with an outfit, your outerwear needs to be bang in the middle of smart casual. Your best bet is to choose something that’s in a neutral colour and a good fit, but in a more relaxed design like a Harrington or bomber jacket. Going for something with a strong pattern or texture will mean that the jacket will automatically be the centre of attention. This is fine if you’re wearing a simple outfit, but if you’re going for something that has a design on it, then it’s best to keep your outerwear as plain as possible. Can you wear a suit jacket with jeans? This look is probably one of the most commonly seen smart casual outfits for men, yet many men don’t know how to pull it off correctly. Try wearing a classic grey tweed blazer with a white button down shirt, but instead of wearing a pair of matching trousers, go for a pair of raw denim jeans as these are a smarter alternative to regular jeans. You can roll them up or leave them as they are, but try and wear a pair of brown penny loafers, as these are the perfect shoes for smart casual attire.
Business casual is something that’s a little different from smart casual. This is when you work in an environment where a strict dress code isn’t installed. However, with business casual, you may want to keep it a little bit on the smart side. Try wearing a navy suit and trousers combination with a plain white T-shirt and tuck the t-shirt in. This may seem like a bit of a no-go when it comes to office attire, but you still have the formality of the blazer and trousers to keep you nice and business casual. For your footwear you can go for a 42
pair of brown loafers (if you do, no socks), or a pair of brown brogues to bring home the business casual element to your look. Another option to wear for business casual it a beige suit for the summer, a perfect colour for tackling that business casual attire as it’s not as hot and heavy as black would be. Team your beige suit with a crisp white button down shirt and a pair of white trainers. A Quick Guide to Pulling Off Smart Casual Choose well-fitted but neutral leg wear, such as slim fit jeans or tapered chinos. Avoid jeans with rips, studs, or fades. Try out different shirts like ones with granddad collars or patterns for an alternative to the white oxford shirt. If you’re going for knitwear, make sure it’s slim fit. If you’re going for a simple look, go for small details to add in some interest, like patterned socks or jewellery. For jackets, choose ones that are well fitted and in a neutral colour, so they can be matched with various outfits.
How to Wear a Suit The width of the tie should match the width of the lapel. In general, thin lapels are more modern. Wide lapels are more oldschool. A pocket square adds an extra level of polish, but make sure it doesn’t match your tie in either pattern or fabric choice. Before you go totally conservative, remember that the pocket square is where you get the most freedom and the one place you get to add a little pizzazz to your suit. When buying an off-the-rack suit, the number one thing to check is how the shoulders fit. Shoulder pads should end at the shoulders. The shoulders are the hardest to tailor, so make sure they don’t stick out or stick up. You should also make sure there is no collar gap. The line of your jacket’s neck should follow the line of your shirt collar around your neck. When it doesn’t, you get a gap. A gap is particularly bad in the back of the neck where the collar of the jacket should be in contact with your shirt collar, and naturally sit about half an inch below the top of the collar.
43
Opt for a charcoal or grey suit over black, unless you’re attending a funeral. Dark grey is more versatile and goes with more colours. Your belt should be fairly thin and the same colour as your shoes. You should match your shoes to the colour of your suit using this guide:
However, darker suits require darker shoes, and lighter suits lighter ones, so that the contrast between the suit and shoes wouldn’t be too great. Double vents in the back are more modern and fashionable – This look is also more flattering for larger figures, and it gives you enough room to do that effortlessly casual “hand in pocket” thing. You should be able to slip your hand between your chest and your buttoned jacket such that it feels snug, but with room to move. Always unbutton your suit before sitting down, or you risk ruining it. The top button of a two-button (or the middle button of a threebutton) should fall at or above the navel. Go with the classic Windsor knot for your tie, but use the size of your head to determine whether you should go half or full Windsor. Follow this rule when you want to be safe. If you’re wearing a vest, always keep the bottom button unbuttoned. Plenty of men, however, break this rule and are still able to pull off the three-piece beautifully. There are practical reasons for vests beyond just how they look. A vest is best worn with single-breasted suits (so it’s actually visible). if you’re going to be wearing your suit in a cold climate, a vest can add a lot of warmth. It also adds a formal touch to your suit.
44
Sleeve cuffs should be exposed about 1 to 2 centimetres. For a harmonious look, try to match the visible cuff length to the amount of collar that is visible at the back of the neck. When you get your suit home, you’ll need a seam ripper or a small, sharp pair of scissors. Unstitch the jacket’s pockets, remove the tack stitches from the jacket’s vents, and remove the little embroidered label from the jacket’s left sleeve. If the sleeves’ button holes are not open, cut them open as well. Do this very carefully to ensure you don’t actually rip the fabric or neighbouring threads. Make sure that your socks are long enough that there’s no exposed leg when sitting down. Your tie should always be darker than your dress shirt. The suit jacket should be just long enough to cover your pants zipper and butt. Your tie should just reach the waistband of your trousers, or be slightly shorter. For a more fashion-forward look, the pant hem should hit right at the top of your shoe. For a more conservative look, the pants should cover the top of the shoe and parts of the laces. If you sweat a lot, wear an undershirt – Preferably one with a deep neck so it doesn’t peek through. Nothing will cheapen the appearance of a suit more than a glimpse of undershirt. Go for the dimple – The dimple is the little hollow beneath the knot of your tie, and it gives a slightly dishevelled yet polished appearance to your finished look.
45
Neckties, Bow Ties, Pocket Squares, Scarves Neckties: Not all knots are created equal. Size, symmetry and shape can vary greatly from knot to knot and all should be taken into consideration. Thick ties often necessitate the use of smaller knots like the Four-in-Hand or the Simple knot. Thin ties generally benefit from larger knots like the Pratt or Windsor. Every knot has a distinct character. The Prince Albert swaggers with a refined elegance. The Kelvin throws caution to the wind. The Murrell grins like a Cheshire Cat. The Van Wijk winks like a scoundrel with a secret. The Eldredge and Trinity knots twirl and fold like futuristic necktie origami. Every knot serves its master differently. Try a few knots. Experiment. Play. Your necktie will thank you. The Simple Knot (Oriental Knot)
1. Start with the back side of the tie facing away from you, the wide end is on the right and the small end is on the left. The tip of the small end should rest slightly above your belly-button (this will vary depending on your height and the length & thickness of your tie). Move only the active (wide) end. 2. Wide end under the small end to the left. 3. Across the small end to the right. 4. Up into the neck loop from underneath. 5. Down through the loop you've just made in the front. 6. Pull down on the wide end to tighten. Slide the knot up to adjust. 46
The Four-in-Hand Knot
1. Start with the wide end of the tie on the right and the small end on the left. Begin with the small end slightly above your belly-button. Only move the active (wide) end. 2. Wide end over the small end to the left 3. Under the small end and to the right 4. Across the front and to the left 5. Up into the neck loop from underneath 6. Down through the loop you've just made in the front 7. Tighten the knot by pulling down on the wide end. Slide the knot up and adjust.
The Prince Albert Knot
47
1. Start with the wide end on the right and the small end on the left. The tip of the small end should rest slightly above your belly-button. Only move the active end. 2. Wide end over the small end to the left. 3. Under the small end and to the right. 4. Across the front and to the left. 5. Under the small end and to the right. 6. Across the front and to the left. 7. Up into the neck loop from underneath. 8. Down through both loops in the front. 9. Tighten the knot by pulling down on the wide end. Slide the knot up and adjust. The first loop should show slightly underneath the second loop.
The Kelvin Knot
1. Start with the backside of the tie facing away from you, the wide end is on the right and the small end is on the left. The tip of the small end should rest slightly above your belly-button. Move only the active (wide) end. 2. Wide end under the small end to the left. 3. Across the small end to the right. 4. Under the small end to the left. 5. Across the small end to the right. 6. Up into the neck loop from underneath. 7. Down through the loop you've just made in the front. 8. Pull down on the wide end to tighten. Slide the knot up to adjust. 48
The Half-Windsor Knot
1. Start with the wide end of the tie on the right and the small end on the left. The tip of the small end should rest slightly above your belly-button. Only move the active end. 2. Wide end over the small end to the left. 3. Under the small end and to the right. 4. Up to the centre, towards neck loop. 5. Through the neck loop and to the left. 6. Across the front, over to the right. 7. Up into the neck loop from underneath. 8. Down through the loop you've just created in the front. 9. Tighten the knot by pulling down on the wide end. Slide the knot up & adjust.
The Pratt Knot
49
1. Begin with the backside of your tie facing forward, the wide end of the tie on the right and the small end on the left. The tip of the small end should rest slightly above your belly-button (this will vary depending on your height and the length & thickness of your tie). Only move the active (wide) end. 2. Wide end under the small end to the left. 3. Up to the centre, towards neck loop. 4. Through the neck loop and down to the left. 5. Across the small end to the right. 6. Up into the neck loop from underneath. 7. Down through the loop you've just created in the front. 8. Tighten the knot by pulling down on the wide end. Slide the knot up and adjust.
The Windsor Knot
1. Start with the wide end of the tie on the right and the small end on the left. The tip of the small end should rest slightly above your belly-button (this will vary depending on your height and the length and thickness of your tie). Only move the active end. 2. Wide end over the small end to the left. 3. Up into the neck loop from underneath. 4. Down to the left.
50
5. Around the back of the small end to the right. 6. Up to the centre, towards neck loop. 7. Through the neck loop and down to the right. 8. Across the front to the left. 9. Up into the neck loop from underneath. 10. Down through the loop you've just created in the front. 11. Tighten the knot by pulling down on the wide end. Slide the knot up & adjust.
The Balthus Knot
1. Begin with the backside of your tie facing forward with the wide end of the tie on the right and the small end on the left. 2. Wide end under the small end to the left. 3. Up to the centre, towards the neck loop. 4. Through the neck loop and down to the right. 5. Up to the centre, towards the neck loop. 6. Through the neck loop and down to the left. 51
7. Up to the centre, towards the neck loop. 8. Through the neck loop and down to the right. 9. Across the front of the small end to the left. 10. Up into the neck loop from underneath. 11. Down through the loop you've just made in the front. 12. Pull down on the wide end to tighten. Slide the knot up to adjust.
The Eldredge Knot:
1. Start with the wide end of the tie on the left and the small end on the right. The tip of the wide end should rest at the top of your belt buckle. Only move the active (small) end. 2. Small end over the wide end to the left. 3. Under the wide end and to the right. 4. Up to the centre, towards neck loop. 5. Through the neck loop and to the left. 6. Across the front, to the right. Then up into the neck loop from underneath. 7. Down to the left and around the back of the wide end to the right. Keep this part loose. 52
8. Bring it across the front towards the left and through the loop made in the previous step. 9. Pull the small end towards the left to tighten. 10. Up to the centre, towards neck loop. Down through the neck loop and to the left. 11. Up to the centre, towards neck loop. Down through the neck loop and to the right. Keep this part loose. 12. Across the front towards the left and through the loop made in the previous step. 13. Pull the small end towards the left to tighten. 14. Tuck the rest of the small end behind neck loop on the left side. 15. Strut your stuff.
The Trinity Knot
1. Start with the wide end of the tie on the left and the small end on the right. The tip of the wide end should rest at the top of your belt buckle. Only move the active (small) end. 2. Over the wide end to the left. 3. Up into the neck loop from underneath. 4. Down to the left.
53
5. Around the back of the wide end to the right. 6. Up to the centre, towards neck loop. 7. Through the neck loop and down to the left. 8. Across the wide end to the right. Up into the neck loop from underneath. 9. Down through the loop you created in the previous step. Keep loose. 10. Bring the small end around the back of the wide end to the right. 11. Bring it across the front towards the centre and through the loop created in the previous step. 12. Tighten and tuck the rest of the small end behind neck loop on the left side. 13. Hypnotize the throngs of onlookers.
The Murrell Knot
1. Start with the small end of the tie on the right and the wide end on the left. The tip of the wide end should rest slightly below your belly-button (this will vary depending on your height and the length & thickness of your tie). Only move the active (small) end. 2. Small end over the wide end to the left. 54
3. Up into the neck loop from underneath. 4. Down to the left. 5. Around the back of the wide end to the right. 6. Up to the centre, towards neck loop. 7. Through the neck loop and down to the right. 8. Across the front to the left. 9. Up into the neck loop from underneath. 10. Down through the loop you've just created in the front. 11. Tighten the knot by pulling down on the small end. Slide the knot up & adjust.
The Van Wijk Knot
1. Start with the wide end of the tie on the right and the small end on the left. The tip of the small end should rest slightly above your belly-button (this will vary depending on your height and the length & thickness of your tie). Only move the active (wide) end. 2. Wide end over the small end to the left. 3. Under the small end and to the right. 4. Across the front and to the left. 5. Under the small end and to the right.
55
6. Across the front and to the left. 7. Under the small end and to the right. 8. Across the front and to the left. 9. Up into the neck loop from underneath. 10. Down through all three loops in the front. 11. Tighten the knot by pulling down on the wide end. Slide the knot up & adjust. The first and second loop should show slightly underneath the third loop.
Bow Ties: The bow tie is a descendant of the knotted cravat. It was born from the need for neckwear that was easier to wear than the cravat and that would last throughout a more active day. By the end of the 19 th century, the butterfly (top picture) and the batwing (bottom picture) bow tie were commonplace. Black bow ties were worn with dinner jackets and white bow ties with evening tails. Today, bow ties are mainly worn on formal occasions; however, in the past decade, bow ties for everyday wear have seen a rise in popularity. A bow tie is perfect for any man who likes to stand out among his peers. Bow Tie Knot
56
Pocket Squares: A pocket square is simply a square piece of fabric that gets folded up in different ways and put into your top jacket pocket. When it comes to wearing pocket squares, there are few men that make that conscious decision not to wear a pocket square – most men don’t because they don’t even know it’s an option. The whole point of a pocket square is to give you the way and the means to stand out in a room full of other men wearing jackets and give you a further way of expressing your personality through your clothing. The pocket square should not exactly match the tie. Having a matching hankie and tie is a major faux pas in pocket square wearing etiquette and will lead others to believe that the pocket square and tie combo was bought for you by an aged aunt from a local garden centre gift shop. This is probably not an impression you are looking for. The pocket square is an elegant finishing touch and goes equally well with a sports jacket or blazer and open shirt as it does with a suit and tie. Your pocket square, if worn with a tie, can either complement your tie or your shirt.
57
58
59
For more ways to fold your hankie, see: https://www.samhober.com/howtofoldpocketsquares/pocketsquarefolds.htm
60
Dress Code for Women White Tie The white tie dress code is one of the most formal dress codes there is and it's only worn on very formal or ceremonial occasions like state dinners and formal evening weddings and balls. It is an evening dress code, which means that it can only be worn after 6 pm (or after dark). Tips: Women are supposed to wear long evening gowns when they go to a white tie event. The colour of your evening gown can be adjusted to the season. Silk and satin are the most common (and stylish) fabrics for an evening gown. Never choose wool. Bare shoulders may or may not be appropriate, depending on the formality of the event, and a cleavage is allowed. Always wear a dress that flatters your body shape if you want to look at your best. As accessories, you can wear a stole and gloves. Gloves are supposed to be white and long (elbow length). You can keep the gloves on unless an older lady attends the event without gloves. Wear a small evening bag that matches with the gown. Wear high heels in one colour that best match your gown. Open shoes are the most elegant under evening gowns. Wear shoes with a low sole. You can wear stockings under your gown but if you do than make sure that your shoes do not have a peep toe. Wear your most glamorous jewellery but do not overdo it. If you wear a necklace do not go for big earrings, and if you wear big earrings do not wear a necklace. If you want to wear a necklace, remember that the necklace should not compete with the neckline of your gown. Rings are supposed to be worn under your gloves. Do not choose too fake-looking jewellery and do not wear a watch because watches are not done on a white tie event.
61
Black Tie Black tie is one of the most formal dress codes, although not as formal as the white tie dress code. It is only used after 6 pm (or after dark) and it is worn at formal occasions like weddings, receptions, exclusive dinners, and galas. This formal party dress code can be an interesting challenge. The nice thing about it is that you can finally get the diva out of yourself because black tie attire is all about being elegant and chic. Tips: If you go to an event with a black tie dress code, you are supposed to wear a long evening gown or a cocktail dress. Whether this dress will be short or long is up to you, but keep in mind that a cocktail dress is always less formal than an evening gown. The colour of the dress can be adjusted to the season. The darker the colour of your dress the more formal it looks. You can have a little cleavage. Dressing for your body shape is a must if you want to look gorgeous on your black tie party. As accessories you can wear long gloves, but this is not required. Take a small evening bag that matches in colour with your gown (the smaller the more formal it looks) and a stole if it is cold. A jacket over your evening gown is not done. Go for high heels in a colour that matches with your gown and take shoes with a low sole. Open shoes are the most tasteful when wearing a formal gown. Wear tasteful jewellery that goes with your outfit. If you wear a necklace do not go for big earrings, and if you wear big earrings do not wear a necklace. If you want to wear a necklace, remember that the necklace should not compete with the neckline of your gown. You can wear your bracelets over your gloves but never wear rings over them.
62
Black Tie Optional ‘Black tie optional’ is followed usually in large business and formal gatherings, including business dinners and can replace the typical business attire. Women can opt from multiple options when they have to dress up for this type of event. The best option is to wear a long evening gown of floor length. It could be the most formal option and will go best with a man wearing tuxedos.
Other options could be a nice knee length cocktail dress or well-stitched dressy separates. No matter what style you choose, you should go for colours – navy blue, black, and other bold colours, such as emerald and magenta.
There are thousands of options for women to highlight their looks by adding appropriate accessories that goes perfectly with their dress. They can add jewellery like beautiful pearl necklace, diamond bracelets, pendants, ear-rings, etc. Heels like stilettoes, open-toes, high heel pumps or wedges are great options.
Cocktail ‘Cocktail’ is a party dress code that is used for all kinds of evening or after dark events. These events can be formal or informal depending on the situation so it's good to adjust your outfit to the formality and situation of the party you're attending. Cocktail dresses are knee length dresses that range from just above the knee to under the knee but they can also be tea length (just above the ankle) although we recommend this only with a fitted dress. Cocktail attire can be in any fabric but it's good to adapt your dress to the formality of the party. Keep in mind that darker colours and fabrics like silk and satin give a more formal look than other colours and fabrics. We recommend going for a simple dress that you can glamour up with accessories. The main goal of this party dress code is that you have to look elegant so make sure that you'll pick out a dress that flatters your body shape.
63
Combine your dress with a small evening bag (the smaller the more formal) that matches with your gown. Wear beautiful eyecatching high heels and bring an extra pair of stockings if you are wearing them, just in case. As accessories you can wear beautiful earrings and a bracelet, or go for a necklace with small or no earrings. If you are planning on wearing a necklace, make sure that it does not compete with the neckline of your dress. Go for a festive hairdo and beautiful make up.
Evening Attire ‘Evening attire’ refers to the kind of clothes that you would wear to a white tie, and sometimes, black tie event. If evening attire is the desired dress code for a party, it is less well defined than black tie or white tie. This gives you more space in choosing what to wear. The dress you should wear can range from below the knee to floor length. When the event consists of a dinner and a dance, a floor length dress is ideal. Formal fabrics for dresses are silk and satin and darker colours will give your appearance more formality than lighter colours. The most important rule you have to keep in mind when choosing an evening gown is that you should wear attire that flatters your body shape; otherwise, even the most expensive gowns will not do you any justice. Combine your gown with a beautiful small evening bag that matches with the colour of your gown. Never wear a jacket over your evening gown. Consider wearing a stole or let somebody drop you off in front of the door when it is cold. Wear shoes with high heels, preferably open and in a matching colour with your stockings.
64
Wear your most beautiful (not too fake looking) jewellery. If you wear bigger earrings, do not also wear a necklace. If you are planning on wearing a necklace, make sure that it does not compete with the neckline of your dress.  Go for festive hairdo and makeup. 
Semi-Formal Semi-formal is a dress code for a party that is being used for events that are in between formal and informal. This sounds difficult, but for women it is easier to dress semi-formal than you would think. Just dress almost the same as you would to an event with a black tie or a cocktail dress code and you are always safe and elegant. You are the safest if you wear a knee length cocktail dress that can range from just above the knee to just under the knee, since a long evening gown can appear too formal. If you choose to wear fabrics like satin and silk, you will always look more formal than in other fabrics, and darker colours will look more formal than lighter colours. Choose a seasonal colour for your gown. A little cleavage is allowed. Go for a cleavage if you have a bigger bust, this will be extra flattering. Keep your dress simple. 
65
Always dress according to your body shape, this will make you look extra elegant and sophisticated. As accessories, you can take a small evening bag that matches with your gown in colour. A small evening bag always looks more formal than a bigger one. And a stole is also a possibility. Go for high heels with a low sole. Open shoes are a tasteful possibility. Make sure that the colour of your shoes matches with your semi-formal attire. Wear jewellery to glam up your semiformal outfit. Go for pretty (not fake looking) earrings or go for a necklace without or with small earrings. Make sure that the necklace does not compete with the neckline of your dress. I it does, it is better to go for earrings instead. You can also wear a pretty bracelet. Go for an elegant hairdo and put some effort into your makeup. If you are attending an evening event, your makeup can be more dramatic. If you have doubts what is meant by semi-formal on an invitation, just call the host or hostess of the event and they will more than glad to help you define the dress code.
Family Celebrations Dressing for a family party is easy because your family already knows you and loves you the way you are, no matter what you are wearing. Even though this is the case, we do like to look pretty and make a good impression with our family party outfits. There are a few things you should keep in mind when you are choosing your outfit for a family party. Your family party outfit is one way to show your family how good you look. To achieve this, wear something that makes you feel confident and pretty. Go for an outfit that not only makes you look good, but that also lets your personality shine through. Keep your look natural, be yourself with a little bit of extra party glamour. If you are a young teenage girl, just use some mascara and some shimmery lip gloss. If you are older, go for sweet natural make up colours that softens your look.
66
Find out if the party you are attending is a formal or an informal celebration. If it is an informal party at somebody's house, you can wear something more casual, but do not go for an outfit that is too average. For an informal party, you can wear something casual with a little bit of extra glam, for example a cute summer dress or pants or skinny jeans with a cute top and fabulous pumps (or small wedges if you are younger). If you are going to a formal celebration, the outfit that you are wearing should also be more formal, for example you could wear a gorgeous cocktail dress or a fashionable pencil skirt with a matching top. If you want to impress your family, girls, go for something cute and tasteful, and ladies, go for something more sophisticated. If you are attending somebody's birthday, graduation, anniversary, etc., try to dress pretty without stealing the spotlight.
Have Fun and Dance club How to dress for the club is always the big question for a night out. You want to impress but in the club it is harder to stand out because everybody aims to look at their best. Your club outfit does not just have to be good, it has to be awesome, hot, and stylish. One of the main reasons women go out is to dance and to have fun. If this is the case, make sure you wear fabric you can sweat in. It is always easier to dance when you are wearing pants. You can, for example, combine skinny jeans with a fancy top. Another benefit of this outfit is that you have pockets for your money and lipstick. This night of dancing and having fun can also be the perfect occasion to wear that cute new dress. Dresses are hot and feminine party outfits, and when you go out to dance, it can be one of the few places where a shorter dress is perfectly suited. Because you often do not have the advantage of pockets when wearing a dress, instead of putting everything in your bra you might consider bringing a clutch. Just make sure it matches with your party attire. 67
Whatever outfit you may choose, pumps will always be the fanciest shoes for a night out, especially when you are wearing a dress. Some girls have trouble dancing on high heels and might consider wearing wedges or ballerinas. In the end, feeling confident and comfortable is always more important. Show some skin if you go to the club, but do not show it all at once if you want to look stylish. Choose to show your best parts and leave other parts to the imagination. The most obvious choice if you want to look amazing for a night out in the club is a short and form-fitting dress. But a simple short skirt or dark skinny jeans with a hot dressy top can also be an option. Go for pumps with high heels (if you can walk on them). They make you look superhot. Wear the dress in any colour you want, but keep it simple and glamour up your look with fancy accessories. With a little black dress, you are always safe and stunning. If you bring a larger bag (for example to take your shoes in), leave it at the cloakroom. For your wallet and lipstick, you can bring a clutch that matches your club outfit. You can also opt for bright-coloured shoes or clutch, which give you a funkier look. If you wear a skirt with a top, make sure that one of the two pieces is simple, so if you are wearing a skirt with ruffles or in a really bright colour, go for a simple black top, and if you are wearing a simple skirt, your top can be showier. If you are planning on dancing a lot, opt for fabrics in which you can sweat. If you know sweating can be a problem, do not wear polyester. Your makeup can be more dramatic than during the day.
68
Casual Casual is an informal party dress code and is used for all kinds of events. The casual dress code is supposed to be comfortable and should give you the ability to express your personality. The casual dress code gives you space to dress the way you like. Some people feel good when they have the ability to express themselves, but for others it is confusing and complicated. However, choosing a nice casual outfit is easy. In principle, is possible to wear anything within a casual dress code. It is a dress code that has different meanings depending of the kind of event you are attending. This means that you have to consider what kind of outfit is appropriate for the party. Keep in mind that a party in a more formal setting, a chic hotel for example, requires fancier clothes than a party on the beach, for example. Remember that a casual party never requires formal clothes. If you are attending a party with a casual dress code, it does not mean that you do not have to put effort into your outfit. Do your best to look pretty, but do not wear formal clothes like evening gowns. If the party is at a more formal location, go for a hot pencil skirt with a cute top, or wear trousers with a stylish blazer or a fashionable blouse. For a more informal party, you can wear a summer dress (for example to a beach party in the summer), trousers, or jeans. For inspiration, check out what the latest fashion trends of the season are. Always dress for your body shape if you want to look good. Even though you are wearing casual, you are still attending a party, so pimp up your casual attire with some hot high heels. Do not forget to wear some cute accessories like earrings and a bracelet or a watch.
69
Morning Dress Morning dress is one of the most formal dress codes there is and it is worn during daytime events. One example where this dress code is worn is at royal weddings, which gives an indication of the formality of this dress code. Wear a fancy over the knee or tea length dress or skirt with or without a jacket. Make sure that your outfit is more modest and does not show too much cleavage. You can wear your dress with or without a jacket. Invest in more fancy fabrics. Go for lighter fabrics like silk or chiffon in the spring or summer and go for heavier fabrics like wool or satin during autumn and winter. Make sure that you always wear attire that is flattering on your body shape. Combine your outfit with some classic pumps or pretty open sandals with heels. Do not wear a larger bag because this will be too casual. Instead, go for a more formal look with a simple and elegant small bag like a clutch. Formally, this dress code is combined with a hat. Wearing a hat is nowadays not required but we do recommend to wear it at more formal locations and weddings. Also, wear some refined and real looking accessories like diamonds, pearls, gold, or silver without overdoing it. Keep everything simple and sophisticated to make sure that your accessories are in balance with your outfit. Since the event you are attending takes place during daytime, we recommend to keep your makeup subtle and natural. Also wear your hair in a beautiful and festive hairdo.
70
New York Chic The New York chic dress code originates in the New York lifestyle. Since there is often not enough time to change clothes after work, you are supposed to wear a trendy outfit suitable for all occasions. If New York chic is the desired dress code for a party you are attending, this means that if it is in the magazines, you can wear it. So start reaching for your wallet. You can wear whatever you want as long as it is trendy (and often expensive). It is being expected that you are wearing designer clothes.
71
4.On Combining Prints/Patterns Years ago, mixing prints was a massive faux-pas, as were unmatched shoes-bagsbelts a century ago, and some people are still stuck with the old ideas. However, mixing different textures and patterns is a fabulous way to create more variety in your outfits by giving it an interesting depth, which is definitely a must if you want to take a more individualistic and personal approach to dressing. Yes, mixing patterns and textures can be tricky and may often result in combinations that do not look that great, but done correctly, mixed prints look amazing. In fact, mixing prints is a definite DO in fashion. More so, it is the embodiment of sophistication, ultimate luxe, and trendy coolness. Mixed-prints looks translate into fabulous styles and outfits in any season, for any occasion, especially office wear. For example, instead of wearing a two-toned or one toned outfit to work, putting on mixed prints in a pencil skirt and blouse is an instant style re-make, making you appear chic and fun, yet professional. Nevertheless, mixing prints, as chaotic as it may come across, is one trend that actually comes with a tiny guide in order to nail this look to its very core. A few tips: 1. Mix and match prints according to colours and textures, not the prints themselves. It is more about the overall image and strong visuals than getting it right, so forget about everything you knew in fashion and think about your outfit as a dazzling crazy puzzle that needs to be put together. A painting that makes no sense, if you will, but looks fabulous.
72
2. Use different textures, but mix on the same colour palette (different patterns, of slightly same colours).
3. If you are wearing similar textures, you can do different colours and prints. Skirt in one print, blouse in another, and jacket in a totally different one, for example.
4. Using stripes – the easiest way to mix prints, as they are the basic definition of a print, which makes them super versatile against any other. They look amazing mixed with:
florals tropicals dots different stripes checks graphic animal print
73
A note on stripes: Thin horizontal stripes form a ‘ladder’, which rather elongates than makes the body look wider. Wide horizontal stripes, however, form a ‘fence’ and visually widen the body.
5. Florals – are definitely the most common print in summer, but do not do it like everyone else, paired with white pants, or black top, or denim. Instead, have fun with it. They look great mixed with: other floral prints (remember: same colours, or same textures) tropicals (tricky, but do-able if they are in the same colour palette) stripes Graphic prints black and white dots
74
6. Animal prints. Oh, the infamous animal prints some love and some hate, is actually a pretty basic print that goes great with most of its siblings: other animal prints stripes checks florals (this is pretty tricky, but I’ve seen it done and it is worth tons of tries until you get it right)
75
7. Checks – though a lo t more worn in the cold season, they have that classic vibe to them, which can easily turn into glam grunge, and paired with a different pattern they look very eclectic. different checks stripes dots
76
Additional guidelines: Wearing medium/large with small patterns create balance. However, mixing large patterns can empower your outfit and make you look wider, and combining two or more small prints may make your overall appearance too busy. As wearing two super-bold patterns can make it look like you got dressed drunk or in the dark, wear patterns and textures that do not compete with each other. For example, combine a large floral skirt with a versatile two-tone striped top. Give your outfit some rest by breaking it up with a basic, solid colour. This makes your outfit look more balanced and modern. Basic wide belts, jackets and hosiery are great for this. Adding basic colours is one of the best strategies to wearing prints subtly. Some prints can be neutral – think tweed skirts and dress pants or small hound’s-tooth, or even black and white, navy blue and white. They are so classic and understated, they become a neutral and can be topped with two other print pieces. Don’t go too matchy-matchy. Similar polka dot patterns on head and toe, for example, make it look like you are overly confined to fashion rules. As if your outfit is too well-thought and predictable. It just isn't exciting to look at. Add a few surprises by wearing different types of prints and textures.
77
You can also follow this cheat sheet when trying to figure out, which patterns to mix.
78
5. Types of Fabric Weaves Fabric weave is the pattern for manufacturing a fabric. The yarns are used in different ways to produce various effects or weaves. These weaves can be plain and simple as well as artistic and decorative. Plain weave is the most simple and common type of construction which is inexpensive to produce, durable, flat having tight surface on which printing and other finishes can be easily applied. The examples of plain weave fabrics are crepe, taffeta, organdy, cotton calicos, cheesecloth, gingham, percale, voile and muslin.
Satin weave, although more complicated, is a more flexible type of weave than the plain weave. It is called 'satin' when filament fibers such as silk or nylon, and 'sateen' when short-staple yarns like cotton are used to make it. The satin weave is lustrous with a smooth surface and it drapes in excellently. The examples of satin weave fabrics are bocade, brocatelle, crepe-satin, satin, paduasoy, velvet satin etc.
79
Twill weave is somewhat similar to plain weave. Twill weave is durable, heavier, wrinkle and soil resistant, and is more flexible than plain weave. The examples of twill weave fabrics are covert cloth, drill, jean, jersey, tussah, velvet, worsted cheviot etc.
Basket weave is a variation of plain weave in which the fabrics have a loose construction and a flat look. It is more flexible and stronger but less stable than a plain weave. This weave is used in composites industry, outerwear, monk's cloth and drapery fabrics etc.
80
Jacquard weave is for creating complex patterns on fabrics and is woven on jacquard loom. The fabrics made through this weave have floats, lustre, and are more stable and stretchy than the basic weaves. Some of its examples are matelassĂŠ, satin Faconne, etc. It is used for upholstery and drapery.
Rib weave is a basic weave, which produces ribs on the fabric. Resulting fabric is abrasion and tear resistant. Some examples are broadcloth, cord fabric, faille, poplin, taffeta, etc.
Dobby, a decorative weave results in small designs or geometric figures all over the woven fabric. It is done through dobby machines. This weave uses various yarns from very fine to coarse and fluffy yarns to produce a variety of fabrics. The standard dobby weave fabrics are flat and comparatively fine. Some examples are moss crĂŞpe, matelassĂŠ, etc. Heavy dobby fabrics are used for home furnishings and for heavy apparel.
81
Leno weave fabric is transparently thin, durable, strong and permits passage of both light and air through it. Examples of fabrics with leno weave are gauze, net, tulle, etc. The leno weave fabrics are used for light-weight membrane, laminating fabrics, making medium weight blankets, etc.
Oxford weave fabrics are made with modified plain weave or basket weave and are generally used for apparels, particularly cotton shirting materials. The fabric is fine, soft and lightweight.
Cut pile is a carpet fabric in which the surface of the carpet is made of cut ends of pile yarn. It is durable depending upon the kind of fibre used, density of the tufts and the number of twists in the yarn. Examples of cut pile are CiselĂŠ velvet, velour, Saxony, etc.
82
Uncut pile, also called loop pile or rounded loops, produces fabric without cutting the ends of yarns as opposed to cut pile. The resulting fabrics are very strong with which very strong carpets are made. They are also used for making towels. Examples are terry cloth, terry velour, Moquette, etc.
Double knit is a circular knit fabric having loops on both sides. It is made on circular knitting machines. The constructed fabric is very heavy. The fabrics such as cotton, wool, silk, rayon, and synthetics are used for double knit and are made into pants, skirts, tunics, jackets, scarfs, hats, bandages, etc.
Chenile fabric is usually a soft wool, silk, cotton, or rayon yarn with protruding pile having fur-like texture which resembles velvet. It is generally used for making sweaters, outerwear, upholstery, curtains, rugs, throws, blankets, etc.
83
84
6.Notes
85
86
87
88