A Brief History of Midsommar

by Nancy Nygård

Midsommar is just about as important to Swedes and Finns as is Christmas. It has been that way for decades. Because of Sweden’s and Finland’s northern location, daylight is limited during three of the four seasons. In winter, days take on a dusk-like quality. With Midsommar, the switch is flipped; the sun hardly sets. Midsommar is the brightest and longest day of the year. Technically, it is the midway point of summer, but early June is usually still cool and so Midsommar is considered the beginning of the summer season. What a reason to celebrate!

Midsommar is a public holiday. It is celebrated on the Saturday between June 20th and 26th with Midsommar Eve the day before. As with Christmas in Finland and New Year, the eve before is celebrated as much as the holiday itself. In 2023, Midsommar Eve is June 23. Most businesses close for the day and may remain closed for a few weeks while business owners vacation at their summer cabins.

Many centuries ago, Midsommar was a pagan celebration, a tribute to honor Ukko, the god of thunder. If Ukko was satisfied, people believed good summer weather and a full harvest would follow. Because the Nordic countries were agrarian cultures, good crops were vitally important.

Bonfires were a part of the celebration and continue to be a part of Midsommar today. Most cities light bonfires near a lake or the sea and gather people around the flames. One such place is at the Seurasaari Open Air Museum near Helsingfors, on the forested island just off the shore of Helsingfors. Russell Snyder, author of Enjoying Midsommar the Finnish Way reported that after enjoying a sumptuous buffet, his host led a caravan of cars through the countryside near Borgå counting bonfires. The bonfires were of all sizes, and it was a surprise how many there were. Centuries ago, consuming large amounts of alcohol was a part of Midsommar, the more drunk and raucous the gathering, the better the chances of a good harvest. Alcohol remains a consistent part of the celebration.

Other activities took on magical or spell-like qualities. Some relate to predicting the future; many involve a woman’s search for a husband. It was told that if an unmarried woman counted the number of times a rooster crowed on Midsommar Eve, she would know how many years it would take to find her husband. The number of cock-a-doodle-dos was equivalent to the number of years; three cock-a-doodle-dos—three years. If no crowing rooster was heard, it meant she would meet her future husband within the year. In the old days, single women would use special charms and bend over a well at midnight, naked, to see the reflection of their future husbands. In another more discreet tradition still performed today, young people pick bouquets of seven or nine different types of flowers and lay them under their pillow in the hope of dreaming of their future spouse.

Another tradition was to decorate houses or doorways with birch trees and flowers. In the past, people also decorated their cows with flowers to increase the odds of good milk production. A favorite Midsommar activity now is making crowns of colorful, fresh cut flowers worn by women and girls during the festival.

Today’s Midsommars are characterized by spending a long weekend with friends and family in nature, sitting by a warm fire, eating, drinking, telling stories, playing or listening to music, perhaps dancing, swimming and enjoying a sauna. May your Midsommars always be this magical!

An Urban Celebration in Helsingfors

by Toni Nelson

While many Finns flock to summer homes to celebrate summer solstice, staying in Helsingfors offers a unique environment to celebrate Midsommar. The serene and densely forested island of Fölisön (Seurasaari in Finnish) is connected to Helsingfors by a footbridge. Setting foot onto the island is like taking a step back in time. You will see no automobiles, bicycles, or even scooters as you become immersed in the Finnish life of our ancestors. Known for the its open-air museum, the island is scattered with age-old cottages, log cabins, a farmstead, windmills,and shops all originating and transported from within Finland. Cultural and historic artisans display wool spinning, iron making, loom weaving, and hand crafting wooden buckets and cups. Midsommar welcomes additional activities beyond the traditional environment of Fölisön.

Folk music concerts and dancing in traditional costumes take place throughout the day. Activities for all ages are plentiful and include carriage and pony rides, flower crown making, and decorating the Midsommar pole. One of the highlights of the day is a spectacular Midsommar bonfire. The peaceful, serene island is filled with the joyful sounds of celebrating summer’s arrival. Midsommar on Fölisön has been a treasured event in Helsingfors since 1954. This year the festival will be held on Friday, June 23, 2023.

History tells us that at one time we were all hunters and gatherers. With no consistent and reliable source of food, people subsisted on what they could kill, scavenge or find growing in the natural world around them. In today’s world, to put a meal on the table can be as simple as making a quick trip to the grocery store or clicking on an app and having dinner brought right to the door by one of the many delivery services. While hunting for game is still a popular sport and many of us may have a small vegetable or herb garden, we have pretty much put the whole hunter/gatherer mentality behind us. However, if you live in Finland, you may be more inclined to go for a walk in the forest with the express purpose of finding your supper.

Foraging is a time-honored tradition in the Nordic countries. In Finland there is a custom called “everyman’s rights” which allows everyone, whether citizen or visitor, to forage almost anywhere in Finland with the exception of family yards and protected nature reserves. Foragers have some restrictions and responsibilities but for the most part are able to roam for miles picking berries, herbs and mushrooms—the three main categories that will be covered here.

Summer forests abound with a variety of berries, ripe for the picking. Whether you prefer sweet or tart, there are over 20 suitable varieties to be found—something for everyone. What would a midsummer celebration be without strawberries and whipped cream? Wild strawberries, smaller than the cultivated variety, have a short growing season and can be found along paths and hillsides during late June and early July.

July sees the ripening of the most sought-after berry of them all—the cloudberry, or as they are called in northern Canada, the bakeapple. This plump golden-orange berry grows only one fruit per plant and can be found in wetlands and bogs. The precise weather conditions needed to commercially produce this succulent morsel means that they are not widely cultivated. But foraged berries made into jam or served fresh with cheese are well worth the effort.

The bilberry, a smaller version of the cultivated blueberry that so many of us enjoy, starts to ripen in mid July. While North American high bush blueberries grow in clusters, the bilberry grows singly or in pairs and thrives in the shady forests of Finland. This small, bluish-purple, sometimes almost black fruit is also dark on the inside and will cause staining so take care when picking in the wild. Speaking from experience, do not wear white while picking or eating any blue-hued berry unless you enjoy the tie-dyed look. Like blueberries, these tiny morsels are nutrient rich in antioxidants, and can be used interchangeably in almost any recipe.

Lingonberries—small, tart and deep red in color— are the Scandinavian equivalent to cranberries both in taste and in how they are used. Like the cranberry, the lingonberry grows profusely on low-lying evergreen bushes. Their tartness makes them unsuited for eating raw but turned into a savory sauce, they go well with meatballs, wild game and even fried herring. Layer a teaspoon of lingonberry jam between two traditional Finnish Christmas spoon cookies (Lusikkaleivät) before dusting the little sandwich with powdered sugar for a sweet-tart treat. Since these berries are not commercially grown, if you want to experience them you will need to forage in late summer through mid autumn.

Many of us use simple herbs to enhance our recipes but there are many that grow wild that can be used to spice up one’s diet. Foragers don’t have to go very far to find one of the most versatile plants—Taraxacum officinale also known as the common dandelion. Almost everyone who has a lawn has dealt with the yellow-blossomed dandelion springing up in all the places they are not wanted. But the dreaded nuisance can be put to good use in the kitchen. Use the small tender leaves in salad. Infuse the flowers in simple syrup or dry them and make a tea. Grind up the roots to make a coffee-like hot beverage. No matter how you use the dandelion, just make sure that it has not been treated with a pesticide.

The stinging nettle doesn’t sound like something you would want to ingest but it has been used in herbal medicines since ancient times to treat things like arthritis and lower back pain and modern science has confirmed that this nutrient-rich plant is high in antioxidants. Because of the tiny filaments the leaves, hence the stinging part, care must be taken when picking these plants however cooking destroys the little irritating hairs and makes the plant suitable for consumption. Once cooked, the leaves can be used much like spinach or kale. Add it to soups or stews, omelettes or pasta.

A third common herb is wood sorrel. While there are over 500 varieties of sorrel found around the globe, in Finland look for plants that resemble a shamrock—three heart-shaped leaves with little white flowers that bloom in May and June. Snack on the lemon-flavored leaves to quench your thirst while walking in the forest and be sure to pick some to use later. Sprinkle the fresh leaves over mixed greens to give your salad a citrusy zing. Add them to a pot of buttered new potatoes in place of dill. Or steep a handful of leaves in hot water to brew a flavorful tea. This delicate herb is best used when it has been freshly picked.

Whenever foraging is mentioned, many of us automatically think of mushrooms and there are many varieties to choose from in the Finnish landscape. And, as with all foraging, one must be knowledgeable about which ones are safe to gather and consume. The chaga, often referred to as the king of mushrooms or Finland’s black gold, looks like a lump of coal as it grows on live birch trees and it is most commonly used to brew tea.

Many of the mushrooms that are found in Finland are ones that most of us would be familiar with —morels, chanterelles, and porcinis. A true morel mushroom has a symmetrical cap that resembles a pinecone and has pits and ridges in a honeycomb pattern. There is also a false morel, which looks more like a chaotic brain than a pinecone, which can be toxic if not handled properly. Both are foraged extensively in Finland from spring to late June. The more delicate chanterelles, easily identified by their wavy false gills, grow at the base of trees and have a long growing season so the same spot should be checked several times over the summer. Porcinis, which are found from mid-summer through September, add a strong nutty flavor to risotto, pasta or stews.

While there are many other safe-to-eat fungi in Finland, there are many mushroom species that must be avoided. How to know the difference? A wise novice forager would take a course on mushroom identification. An even wiser novice forager would venture out the first few times with an experienced mushroom hunter. No one wants their first foraging excursion to be their last.

Whether young or old, foraging can be a healthy and fun activity for almost everyone. With the price of groceries these days, more and more of us may be getting in on the action. And you don’t have to hunt and gather for your dinner to garner the benefits of an hour or two walking in a forest or meadow.

There are hundreds of websites offering information on how, where and when to forage in just about any part of the world.

For more information about foraging in Finland, check out the following: www.nationalparks.fi/berryandmushroompicking www.gone71.com/10-delicious-wild-berries-to-pick-in-finland-sweden-norway/ www.foraginginfinland.com/ finland.fi/life-society/treasures-of-the-boreal-forests/ herfinland.com/foraging-food-finland/ www.outinthenature.com/foraging-wild-herbs-in-finland/ www.mettanordic.com/blogs/news/finnish-nature-is-full-of-tasty-edible-mushrooms

Post Foraging Recipes

Try these classic recipes with your forest bounty

Cėpes a la Bordelaise

Serve as a hors d’oeuvres.

1 pound cleaned porcini mushrooms

3 cloves of garlic

1 bunch of parsley

Coarsely chop the mushrooms (1” chunks).

Put the mushroom in a large bowl and sprinkle on 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Stir the mushroom chunks so they get covered with the oil. Set aside in the refrigerator for an hour.

Mince the garlic and finely chop the parsley. Heat up 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large skillet. When the oil starts fuming add the mushrooms.

Let them sizzle 10 minutes, stirring now and then. Turn down the heat to low-medium and add the garlic and parsley. Cook another 10 minutes.

Stewed Porcini

Serve with meat, fish, or game dishes.

½ gallon cleaned & diced porcini mushrooms

1 cup finely sliced yellow oniions

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

¼ cups heavy cream

Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan over a medium-low heat.

When the foam subsides add the mushroom and onion slices. Cook over a medium-low heat until all fluid has evaporated and the mushroom attains a light brown color (10-12 minutes).

Turn the heat to low and gradually add the cream and let the stew thicken (15-20 minutes). Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Grilled Cèpes after Joel Robuchon

Serve with eggplant caviar as an hor d’oeuvre

2 cups water

2 cups fresh berries

1 stick cinnamon {optional}

¼ cup sugar

3 tablespoons potato or corn starch heavy whipping cream for whipping

Use small cepes where hat and stem are still attached. Slice them lengthwise—about 1/8”. Place on a dish and brush the slices with peanut oil and sprinkle them with fresh thyme leaves.

Heat a griddle over a medium-high heat (or use a charcoal grill if available). You want to create a diamond pattern by successively placing the mushroom at 45o angle between the vertical axis of the mushroom slices and the grill ridges.

Grill the mushroom one minute, pressing down firmly with a baking sheet to accentuate the impression of the grill marks. Reposition the slices and grill for one more minute.

Now turn the slices and repeat the procedure, grilling two more minutes.

Meanwhile, in a large skillet, heat two tablespoons of unsalted butter over a moderate heat. When the foaming subsides add the grilled mushrooms in several carefully arranged layers, sprinkle with thyme and finish cooking, covered, until soft and tender, about five minutes. Do not turn the mushrooms, but rather baste regularly with the buttery cooking juices.

Mushroom recipes were originally published in Volume 19, No. 1 issue of The Quarterly.

Berry Soup

We suggest blackberries, raspberries, plums or blueberries.

Serves 6

2 cups water

2 cups fresh berries

1 stick cinnamon {optional}

¼ cup sugar

3 tablespoons potato or corn starch heavy whipping cream for whipping

Bring 2 cups water to boil in a large saucepan. Add berries and sugar and 1 small cinnamon stick or powdered cinnamon to taste. Cook berry mixture for no longer than 10 minutes.

Add potato starch to 3 T cold water and mix until it forms a smooth paste. Slowly stir starch mixed with into boiling soup.

Watch the pot carefully. Keep stirring for about 10 minutes until soup is clear and thick.

Pour hot soup into a wide-rimmed serving bowl. Cool quickly. Serve chilled, topped with desired amount of whipped cream.

This recipe was originally published in Volume 11, No. 3 issue of The Quarterly and was submitted by Debbie Santelli.

Nettle Soup

Serves 4

2 quarts spring nettles

1 quart vegetable stock

½ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon cornstarch or arrowroot

8 ounces heavy cream salt & pepper

Heat vegetable stock in large pot.

Place the nettles in briskly boiling, lightly salted water. Blanch for a couple of minutes. Strain the nettles in a large sieve.

Refine the nettles in a blender or food mill, then add to the hot stock.

Dissolve starch in cold water, then blend into the soup. Add cream. Simmer 8–10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Garnish nettle soup with fresh chervil leaves, finely chopped chives, or dust with paprika.

This recipe was originally published in Volume 22, No. 1 issue of The Quarterly and was submitted by Gunnar Damström.