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October 2015 Vol 86:08 $4.95
Swedish fashion past, present and future
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2015
The Lilian Look H&M Conscious Foundation Emma Ohlson Interview
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Swedish Press is the world’s leading magazine on all good things Swedish. An authority on design, business, culture and travel since 1929, Swedish Press delivers insightful news and commentary in a visually striking format. With a nod to the past, and a peek to the future, Swedish Press is your go-to source for updates and inspiration from Sweden. SWEDISH PRESS (ISSN 0839-2323) is published ten times per year (Feb, Mar, Apr, May, June, July/Aug, Sept, Oct, Nov, Dec/Jan) by Swedish Press Inc, 11616 Papagallo Court, San Diego, CA 92124 for $39 per year. Periodical postage paid at Blaine, WA 98230-9998 (No. USPS 005544). US POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Swedish Press, PO Box 420404, San Diego, CA 92142-0404 OFFICE: 9040 Shaughnessy Street, Vancouver, BC V6P 6E5 Canada US MAILING ADDRESS: PO Box 420404, San Diego, CA 92142-0404 WEBSITE www.swedishpress.com E-MAIL info@swedishpress.com TEL +1 360 450 5858 TOLL FREE +1 866 882 0088 PUBLISHER Claes Fredriksson Claes@swedishpress.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Claes Fredriksson Claes@swedishpress.com ART DIRECTOR Joan Law Fredriksson Joan@swedishpress.com
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4 Letters to the Editor Borgström’s Blogg 5 From the Editor’s Desk 6 7 8
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CONTENTS ( October 2015 )
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Swedish Press
Photo: H&M Conscious Foundation
Feature 10 H&M creates fashion with a conscious Interview 12 Emma Ohlson: Secretary General of the Association of Swedish Fashion Brands
CANADIAN PUBLICATIONS MAIL AGREEMENT No. 40010214 Return Undeliverable Canadian addresses to Swedish Press, 9040 Shaughnessy Street, Vancouver, BC V6P 6E5 Canada
Heritage 15 Kläder för en prinsessa – The Lilian Look Global Swedes 16 Putting Sweden on the map – at home: Gudrun Sjödén Lifestyle 18 Top Sju 19 Film: Nordic International Film Festival in New York and Vancouver International Film Festival
Hemma hos 20 Design: Global Leadership Award in Sustainable Apparel 21 Treats à la Kajsa 22 Lär Dig Svenska 23 Comic: Feeling Swedish together In the Loop 24 Landskapsnyheterna 27 Canada, US & Beyond 28 Calendar and Events 29 Ads and Info 30 Sista Ordet Bringing back the old Swedish Arbetsskjorta (workshirt) 31 Press Byrån
We acknowledge the assistance of the Government of Canada through the Canada Periodical Fund of the Department of Canadian Heritage. PRINTED IN CANADA NEXT ISSUE DEADLINE: OCTOBER 10
The Lilian Look. Photo:Kungligaslotten.se
Cover photo: Sketches of the The Lilian Look gowns by Elizabeth Wondrak at the new exhibition “Designs for a Princess – The Lilian Look” at the Royal Palace. Photo: Kungligaslotten.se
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creates fashion with a conscience By Kristi Robinson
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t’s refreshing to see a company that has made big achievements in the fashion world also has a conscience and is striving to make a difference. H&M is committed to sustainability on many levels – providing good working conditions and ‘fair living’ wages, manufacturing garments made from sustainable materials, focusing on animal welfare, reducing waste from manufacturing, and lowering CO2 emissions. Taking their dedication to sustainability even further, they have developed the H&M Conscious Foundation as a way
Effluent treatment plant. H&M, together with conservation organisation WWF, has set a water strategy to improve responsible water use throughout the value chain. Their goal is becoming the fashion industry’s leading water steward. Photo: GMB Akash
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of protecting the earth’s natural resources while creating positive long-term change to the health and livelihood of communities around the world. Through a number of initiatives they are changing the face of fashion to operate with a sense of responsibility for the environment and compassion for humankind.
H&M is challenging innovators from any background to close the fashion loop and come up with groundbreaking ideas of how to reduce environmental impact and shape the future of fashion and how it is produced, shipped, bought, used, and recycled, and contributes to positive change for communities with their recently launched Global Change Award. The winning five will share a grant of € 1 million and the worldwide public will be invited to distribute half of the grant through an online vote to the winners based on which idea they believe has the most impact. In collaboration with
Accenture and KTH Royal Institute of Technology in Stockholm the winners will also receive an ‘innovation accelerator’– support and knowledge to get their ideas up running. The Global Change Award ceremony will take place on February 10, 2016 and the world’s opportunity to have a say through online voting will be open prior to the ceremony from February 1-7.
The H&M Conscious Foundation is also leading a number of projects to benefit people in countries where they operate- Bangladesh, India, Indonesia, Cambodia, Ethiopia and USA. Again using the online voting system H&M was able to get input on the issues that mattered to their customers and employees. The results showed providing clean water, children’s education, and strengthening women through economic empowerment to be the top three, and with that H&M has laid out a clear plan of action to achieve these.
Clean Water = Well-Being & Dignity
Children’s Education = Nurture & Opportunity
Women’s Economics = Empowerment & Equality
In partnership with WaterAid, an international organization that provides safe water, sanitation, and hygiene, H&M is investing in clean water and sanitation in schools. Over 50% of students in low-income countries lack access to water. When water, sanitation, and hygiene education are supplied the health of students is improved since there is less disease and illness. It also creates an environment where learning performance is enhanced, attendance is higher, and
Alongside UNICEF, H&M wants to provide the best start in life by investing in children’s early education and development. Greatly affecting children in the developing world because those who fall behind often
The third issue on the H&M Conscious Foundation table is strengthening women by investing in women’s economic empowerment. Together with CARE, a humanitarian organization fighting global poverty, H&M aim to transform the systems that prevent women and girls from reaching their potential and achieving their dreams. Studies show that when women are given equal rights it has huge benefits for the entire society – health, economic growth, and children’s well being. H&M has created the grant ‘Lasting Change Fund’, and it will be available to women in poor communities enabling them to start up a small business, or expand their existing one. Basic skills training like self-esteem, marketing, negotiation, and sales will also be part of the funding. 100,000 women will get access to skills and/ or capital as part of the fund by 2017. H&M aims to raise awareness by creating 5 regional campaigns with powerful role models to outline the barriers for women, and highlight stories of how to overcome them. Also on the agenda is a global report that will advocate for policy changes needed to allow women to use their voice and fulfill their potential.
Factory employee at one of H&M’s suppliers in Bangladesh Photo: GMB Akash
Factory employee at one of H&M’s suppliers in Bangladesh Photo: GMB Akash
gender equality is improved because girls don’t need to drop out of school once they begin menstruating. H&M’s goal by 2017 is to provide clean water, separate toilets for boys and girl, hand washing stations, and education about hygiene practices, benefitting 250 000 students. They also endeavor to help set national policies in five countries so that water, sanitation, and hygiene are integrated into the educational policy. On a global scale, they are advocating for this to be a target of the new UN Sustainable Development Goals with access to water, sanitation, and hygiene by 2030 as part of their mandate.
stay behind. Lack of a stimulating, nurturing, safe, and responsive environment results in limited physical and mental development. Reduced learning achievements decrease social and economic potential later in life, and like a domino effect, has implications for societies. H&M wants to change this by contributing to early childhood education and placing early childhood development on the global agenda. By 2017 they want to see 73,600 children benefit from early childhood development programs. H&M also aim to have early childhood development supported in three countries by their national budgets, and they want to help transform global perceptions on the importance of early childhood development by releasing a report to help policy makers realize its value.
Factory employee at one of H&M’s suppliers in Bangladesh Photo: GMB Akash
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I N T E R V I E W
W I T H
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Emma Ohlson
How did you get started in Fashion? I started my fashion career with a stage at Vogue Paris and then continued to work for Elle Magazine in Stockholm. I had previously worked for The Times of London, Wallpaper, Winkreative, Monocle and Patriksson Communication, the leading PR agency in Sweden focused on fashion and lifestyle. I have a Bachelors Degree of Science in Business and Economics from Lund University and a Masters of Arts in Fashion Journalism and Promotion from Central St. Martin’s College of Art and Design.
Klamborn, Ida Sjöstedt, J-Lindberg Woman, Lamija, Maria Nilsdotter, Mayla, Minimarket, Morris Heritage, Stand, Stylein, Swedish Fashion Talents (Rookies), The Swedish School of Textiles (graduate shows) and Whyred. During our jewelry and accessories lounge, the following brands were represented; ALL-BLUES, ATP Atelier, Holpp, Minimarket – shoes and hats and Victoria Senkpiel. Fashion Week was attended by approximately 400 Swedish and around 100 International press and buyers.
Fashion Week in Stockholm is the single most important fashion event in Sweden. Swedish Press spoke to Emma Ohlson, Secretary General of the Association of Swedish Fashion Brands (ASFB). ASFB is an independent organization created by and for the Swedish fashion industry, with the purpose of bringing together, supporting and promoting Swedish fashion. ASFB is also the organizer of Fashion Week Stockholm.
Tell us about Fashion Week in Stockholm. Berns, Bon Magazine and Patriksson Communication founded Fashion Week in 2005. Fashion Week is held biannually (Jan/Feb and August) and has placed Stockholm on the global fashion map. Fashion Week is Scandinavia’s primary platform for fashion. We had a total of 30 designers presenting their Spring/Summer 2016 collections this season. On the catwalk; AltewaiSaome, BACK, Björn Borg, By Malina, By the No, Carin Wester, Cheap Monday, Diana Orving, Edwin Trieu, Filippa K Man, Filippa K Woman, Giorgi Rostiashvili, House of Dagmar, Ida
How would you describe Swedish fashion? Quick development, creative achievements and entrepreneurial success sum up Swedish fashion in the past two decades. Inspired by the modern attitudes and lifestyles of the nation’s urban consumers, Swedish fashion reflects the present while maintaining strong connections to the country’s rich tradition of art, interiors, music and design. Already popular with fashion press and consumers both at home and beyond the country borders, the Swedish look combines edgy concepts with wearable pieces and accessible prices, striking a balance between elegance
By Sofie Kinnefors
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and ease, subtlety and distinction, playfulness and purpose. By international standards, the Swedish fashion industry is still in its youth. But what it lacks in heritage it makes up for in modernity. In just 20 odd years it has developed into an important player on the global fashion scene. Thanks to an explosion of new brands, Swedish fashion is now a 14 billion Euro export industry. Could it be seen on the runway this year? Absolutely! We saw a great variety and height in creative expression from more established brands and newcomers. Mikael Damberg, Minister of Enterprise and Innovation, opened Fashion Week and in his speech raved about the importance of fashion as Sweden’s greatest cultural and creative industry and the great impact it has on Sweden’s total export. Why do you think Swedish fashion has achieved the success it has globally? As previously mentioned, the Swedish fashion industry is still young. A telling example is that Acne started 1996 with 100 pair of jeans, less than 20 years ago. The Swedish fashion industry is in an expansive phase where more and more brands are “born global”.
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The traditional steps of first securing establishment on the domestic market is sometimes surpassed but almost always complemented by global presence through e-commerce. We see this as a natural development in line with digital globalization and partly due to the demographical limitation of Sweden, which has a small population of only 9.7 million. Swedes are early adapters and adapting commerce and sales to the digital era is neither in conflict with traditional sale strategies nor a chore for Swedish fashion entrepreneurs who perhaps are more internet savvy than their counterparts in New York, London, Paris or Milan. ASFBs envisions that the development of Stockholm as a fashion capital will be as a complement to the more traditional fashion industries of the big four by providing global consumers with a supply of wearable and affordable fashion with a great height creativity and design while adhering to the values of a modern lifestyle. Another big differentiation to the big 4 is the Swedish fashion industries innate responsibility and dedication to sustainable fashion. Brands such as Filippa K, Uniforms for the Dedicated, ATP Atelier and high street chains such as H&M, Indiska and Gina Tricot work systemically throughout their
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production chain to achieve sustainability. Swedes value our closeness to nature and human rights, and cultural diversity is part of our political history. For the inhabitants of Stockholm and fashion designers and entrepreneurs alike sustainable living and design comes naturally. Do Swedish fashion bloggers/celebrities contribute to this success? We were very early in Sweden with the launch of bloggers and I definitely believe that their development has had a positive influence on the global development of Swedish fashion. Who is your favorite designer? It’s impossible to only choose one! I do shop quite a lot at Filippa K and Acne Studios but I also love high street chains such as & Other Stories and COS. How do you like to dress? Simple and comfortable with a masculine twist. New collections for Spring/Summer 2016. Photos: 1. Carin Wester, 2. BACK, 3. Filippa K Man, 4. House of Dagmar, 5. Whyred, 6. Björn Borg, 7. Ida Sjöstedt, 8. Edwin Trieu, 9. AltewaiSaome, 10. Lamiya, 11. The Swedish School of Textiles, 12. Morris Heritage, 13. Maria Nilsdotter, 14. Holpp, 15. J.Lindeberg. Photo credits: Studio Emma Svensson.
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[Lifestyle]
Top Sju
195 000
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The world’s most expensive Dala horse was recently auctioned off in Borlänge for a groundbreaking 195 000 SEK. The traditional carved and painted wooden horse statuette stands 16 cm tall and is likely from the 1850s. It originates from Boda, north of Rättvik and has been painted by a local 19th century Boda painter. The horse is distinguished by its unique light coloring. The horse’s colors have been copied many times, but there is only one example of the original Dala horse from Boda.
Mästarnas Mästare season 8 won’t be back on TV until Spring 2016, but the recordings in the South of Spain are already in full swing. Some of Sweden’s top sportsmen and women are being challenged in team spirit, endurance and strategy. As in previous seasons the athletes are divided into two teams. Group one is made up by Peter Forsberg, Niklas Jihde, Jörgen Persson, Hanna Marklund, Karolina Höjsgaard and Caroline Ek. Group two consists of Kennet Andersson, Anders Eriksson, Björn Ferry, Heidi Andersson, Kicki Johansson and Inez Karlsson.
30 Estrid Ericson was only 30 years old when she opened up her design boutique Svenskt Tenn in Stockholm in 1924. Her company became known worldwide and, 34 years after her death, still is. Therefore, an exhibition is being held in honor of the savvy business woman. The exhibition, which will be on display until 2021, takes place in Hjo, Vastergotland, where Estrid attended school and
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Estrid Ericson. Photo: Lennart Nilsson/Svenskt Tenn.
worked as an art teacher. The exhibition features texts and around 100 objects.
24 This fall Skansen, the world’s oldest outdoor museum, introduces an exciting journey called Folktro & Magi – Höstlov på Skansen. The expedition is aimed for children over the age of six and takes place during fall-break in Stockholm between October 24 and November 1, 2015. The journey includes thrilling hikes amongst fairies, trolls and ghosts. Brave children may also listen to scary stories and movies. For more information: www. skansen.se
4 The sequal to Stieg Larssons International bestseller the Millenum serie is finally here! Author David Lagercrantz was selected to pen the independent sequel
to Larsson’s international bestselling Millennium series. The new work will appear ten years after Larsson’s first book “The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo” was published. The new book, called “The Girl in the Spider’s Web” picks up where Larsson’s third and final novel “The Girl who Kicked the Hornet’s Nest” ended.
1 000 000 Sweden’s new lottery called Landlotten launched on September 1. Tickets cost 25 SEK each offering a chance to win 1 million SEK. The main purpose of Landlotten is to lift the countryside. Every fourth lottery ticket is a win and the surplus goes to Bygdegardarnas Riksforbund. Bygdegardarnas Riksforbund has about 200 000 members throughout Sweden. Their goal is to prioritize culture, youth initiatives and education in order for young people to thrive in the countryside.
50 Louise Hoffsten is staying busy with two new projects. The Swedish blues artist from Linkoping just released her new book “En Näve Grus,” a biography about life with Multiple Sclerosis, which also describes her love for music and family. In honor of her recent 50th birthday she will release a new album October 9 called “L.” Louise says the album is a tribute to the American musical influences that have fascinated her since childhood.
[Lifestyle] Film
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ordic International Film Festival (NIFF), is a new film festival based in New York City at the renowned Scandinavia House on Park Avenue also known as the Nordic Center. NIFF celebrates Nordic and international films and strives to find new and upcoming independent films as well as honoring great work from already established filmmakers. Sponsored by FACE Stockholm and supported by the Scandinavian Consulates, NIFF 2015 will be held on October 31st and November 1st. NIFF is a new film festival founded by multi-award winning filmmaker Johan Matton and award winning actor and filmmaker Linnea Larsdotter. “We wanted an international film festival with focus on independent films from all over the world but with a special category that will nominate the Best Nordic Short and Feature Film,” explained Johan Matton. NIFF received over 200 submissions of Nordic and international short and feature films since its launch early 2015. Only a very few select films will be nominated in the Official Selection which will screen at “Victor Borge Hall” at the Scandinavia House on October 31st and November 1st. There will be a full day of events on the second day including the highlights of the festival as well as the Red Carpet, Q and A with the filmmakers and the Gala/Award ceremony in the evening, when the winners will be announced in each category. “We have invited a great selection of A-list actors and directors from all over the world and we hope that as many of them as possible will have the chance to attend, together with a film-loving audience. The event is free and we welcome everyone to come and enjoy great Nordic and international independent films during this two-day event,” says Linnea Larsdotter. Visit www.nordicfilmfest.org for more information.
Vancouver International Film Festival
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he Vancouver International Film Festival (VIFF), one of North America’s largest film festivals, brings the best in film to Vancouver from September 24 to October 9, 2015. Building on an impressive 2014 edition in which 349 films drew more than 144,000 attendees, VIFF delivers the world’s most spectacular cinema to nine Vancouver screens. This year VIFF will present over 350 films (550 public screenings) from 70 countries and host many international guests. Two special presentations – a phenomenal documentary about Ingrid Bergman and a drama from Norwegian director Joachim Trier will be featured along with a number of Swedish and Nordic films.
Photo: Rialto Pictures
Nordic International Film Festival, NY
Ingrid Bergman: In Her Own Words (Jag är Ingrid) Director: Stig Björkman | Sweden Thu. Oct 8, 6:00 pm, Centre for Arts Fri. Oct 9, 1:15 pm, Playhouse Casablanca, Notorious, Voyage to Italy... That Ingrid Bergman, three-time Oscar winner, is one of filmdom’s all-time greats is inarguable. Narrated by Swedish (and now Hollywood) star Alicia Vikander, Stig Björkman’s intimate exploration of Bergman’s personal and professional life benefits immensely from the cooperation of Bergman’s daughter Isabella Rossellini, who allowed him access to never-before-seen private footage, notes, letters, diaries and interviews. The result is a rich and multicoloured portrait of this extraordinary human being – in her own words. Canadian Premiere. Visit www.viff.org for more information.
PRESS RELEASE - For Immediate release - Sep 7th 2015, New York.
“NORDIC INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL” (NIFF) a new Nordic/Scandinavian film festival held in New York at the “Nordic Center”/Scandinavia House sponsored by FACE Stockholm and supported by the Scandinavian Consulates will be held October 31h through November 1st 2015. NIFF is a new filmfestival founded by multi award winning filmmaker Johan Matton and award winning actor and filmmaker Linnea Larsdotter 2015.
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