Sweet Paul Magazine - Fall 2014 by Sweet Paul Magazine

FA L L 2014

Contents FALL 2014

6 What’s up Sweet Paul?

32 Gorg-wanna handmade

10 Fall is the season to ...

34 Cookin' up romance

14 Recipe Monday

37 Will's picks

16 Crafty Friday

40 From Mormor's kitchen

18 Lova's world

42 Gorg-wanna kids

22 Keep your eye on

46 Woof

26 My happy dish

48 One for the season

29 Books

52 Gorg-wanna design

features Beat it

A magical Halloween

Beads

Persian flavors

The Cuban table

104

Autumn treehouse soirée

116

The wonders of leaves

122

Cauliflower: the lost vegetable

130

Harvest feast under the willow tree

136

Preserving nature

144

Eating Emilia Romagna

154

Pantry confessions

155

Next time!

PHOTOGRAPHY by Armando Rafael

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Paul Lowe

Founder & editor in chief paul@sweetpaulmag.com

Paul Vitale Marketing & business development director paulvitale@sweetpaulmag.com Joline Rivera Art director joline@sweetpaulmag.com Nellie Williams Graphic designer nellie@sweetpaulmag.com Will Taylor Market editor will@sweetpaulmag.com Susanna Blåvarg Editor-at-large susanna@sweetpaulmag.com

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Lova Blåvarg Editor-at-large lova@sweetpaulmag.com Laura Kathleen Maize Copy editor laura@sweetpaulmag.com Advertising Inquiries advertising@sweetpaulmag.com General Inquiries info@sweetpaulmag.com

Contributors Aimee Swartz Aina C. Hole Alexandra Grablewski Ana Sofia Peláez Angela Finney Hoffman Armando Rafael Carey Jones Dietlind Wolf Ellen Silverman Eugene Jho Frances Janish Goor Studio

Kristin Gladney Linda Pugliese Lucy Attwater Michaela Hayes Mister Finch Monica Bjerkerud Sjøli Nathan Michael Nidia Cueva Rebecca Jurkevich Sandra Holl Shaila Wunderlich Tereasa Surratt

Add a little color to your coﬀee table

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What’s up Sweet Paul?

Can you believe it’s fall again? This summer went so fast. I hope you really enjoyed yours. I surely enjoyed mine: sun, sand, city, and lots of BBQ. I don’t mind the fall coming—it brings new ingredients, experiences, and opportunities. We move inside, light candles, cook more, and learn to enjoy the indoor life. One of my favorite fall activities is going apple picking. Nothing beats the combination of fresh air, beautiful nature, and crisp, sweet apples just off the trees. I always end up picking more apples than I can possibly eat. There are only so many apple pies you can bake, or apple chutney you can cook before you’ve had too many. I know I’ve made enough apple goodies when my partner says, “Oh… another apple pie!” But I do love to have a big bowl of apples on my table for anyone to enjoy. And when I admit to myself that I overpicked, I put a big bowl downstairs so that my neighbors can enjoy them too. So, my dear friends, go out, pick apples, bake pies (but not too many!), and enjoy the wonderful season ahead of us. I sure will.

PHOTOGRAPHY by Goor Studio

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PROP

WORKSHOP

Prop & Surface Rentals 164 West 25th St.10th floor tel. 212.219.8591 www.propworkshopnyc.com

design by Josh Simons, Simonsays Design!

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Fall is the season to ... Maker’s apron, $40

IMAGE: West Elm

Pot holder, $25

PREPARE

your home for the colder months by layering in cozy textiles and darker hues for a cocoon-like feel

BAKE

Salted Caramel Chocolate Pecan Pie

Alexa reclaimed wood bed, $1599, westelm.com

Handmade tea towels, $22

Drink a Pumpkin Classic

2 tablespoons pumpkin purée 1 ½ oz bourbon 1 oz maple syrup ½ oz Grand Marnier splash of orange bitters orange peel, to garnish

1. Mix the pumpkin purée with all the other ingredients, apart from the peel, in a cocktail shaker filled with ice. 2. Shake vigorously before straining into a chilled glass, also filled with ice. 3. Garnish with orange twist.

COOK WITH 10 | SWEETPAULMAG.COM FALL 2014

beets

Shop at Mignon Kitchen for stylish kitchen linens mignonkitchenco.com celery

fennel

FA L L IS T H E SE A SON TO . . .

Our top three stationery buys this season Rabbit greetings cards This London designer founded her company Ham Made in 2011 in order to capture a series of unexpected moments from the contented lives of a pig, a horse, and a rabbit. All of her products are thoughtfully crafted and 100% British made. We’ve been charmed by her range of Rabbit greeting cards (4 for $15). hammade.com

Spiral journal Artist Linda Geary uses discarded watercolors like the gorgeous blue shades seen on this journal ($24) for collages or to inspire new paintings. Fall can sometimes feel like the start of a new year in itself, especially with the little ones kicking off a new school year. So why not join us in embracing grade-school nostalgia with some of these spiral-bound notebooks? knockknockstuff.com

Gold scissors The Sweet Paul team all let out a collective ‘ohhhhh’ when we first set eyes on these stylish gold-handled scissors ($20). A handy size at 8.5 inches, they are made of stainless steel and the handle has a gold finish. Pop them in a pen pot to instantly give your desk a sophisticated new look. hautepapier.com

Look what Sweet Paul spotted! 1. Constellation mug We see you counting stars! Or at least we will once you start drinking your coffee from one of these stylish metallic mugs; each detail one of twelve constellations. $20 each, lollipopdesigns.co.uk

PAUL’S FAVORITE

The holiday and party season will be upon us before we can crack open a beer—so why not get prepared with this handy bottle opener?

2. Plate We’re crushing on this marble-effect plate that’s not only a bargain for five bucks but bang-on-trend, too! $5, hm.com 3. Initials wash bag Lay claim to your toiletries in style with these chic, customizable, monogrammed wash bags. $40, notonthehighstreet.com 4. Wall mounted bottle opener $10, flotsamandfork.com

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7/23/14 11:39 AM

Recipe Monday You need to get a special iron, but they’re easy to find. We used to make this cake on special occasions. It was one of my childhood favorites

FOOD+STYLING+PHOTOGRAPHY by Paul Lowe

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Cardamom Waffle Cake with Fall Berries & Maple Syrup Serves 5

1. Mix eggs and sugar and beat until creamy.

3 eggs ½ cup sugar 1 stick butter, melted ½ cup milk ½ cup sour cream 1½ cup all purpose flour ½ teaspoon cardamom whipped cream berries figs fresh mint maple syrup

3. Mix in flour and cardamom and beat until you have a smooth batter.

2. Add butter, milk, and sour cream, and mix well.

4. Heat the iron and make waffles. Let them cool. 5. On a platter, layer the waffles with whipped cream in between each layer. 6. Top with berries, figs, mint, and maple syrup. 7. Cut up the cake and serve with extra cream, berries, and maple syrup.

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Crafty Friday

CRAFT+STYLING+PHOTOGRAPHY by Paul Lowe

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Title

You will need: List 1. Instructions

Egg Carton Bird Masks Use something as simple and everyday as egg cartons to create these beautiful masks. They’re like a menagerie of exotic birds. This is the perfect craft to do with your kids for Halloween. You will need:

egg cartons scissors X-acto knife hot glue gun craft paint/watercolors elastic ribbon 1. Cut the flaps off the carton and turn it on its side. 2. Cut off the 2 top compartments to use as the mask. See how it resembles a bird with eyes and a beak? 3. Use an X-acto knife to cut out holes in the center of the eyes. 4. Now comes the fun part. Using the rest of the carton, cut out feathers and other features and hot glue them to your mask. You can also use regular paper to create a longer beak. 5. Paint all the parts of the mask using craft paint or watercolors. 6. Hot glue an elastic ribbon to the back of the mask.

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Lova's world The most amazing thing about fall has to be how beautiful the leaves are when they turn red, orange, and gold! For this issue, I decided to make little trees out of metal wire and nail polish. The wonderful thing about the nail polish is that it is translucent, like real leaves! A couple of trees will make for a cute decoration or a forest for toys!

CRAFT+STYLING by Lova Blåvarg | PHOTOGRAPHY by Susanna Blåvarg

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Nail Polish Forest You will need:

thin metal wire needle nose pliers nail polish dark-colored paper tape 1. Twist thin metal wire into small loops, smaller than ¼" across. You can put several loops on 1 piece of wire. This will be a branch. I also made some loose leaves to lie on the ground around the trees. 2. Twist several branches together to form the trunk of the tree, but leave some wire to make into roots. This will make it possible for the tree to stand on its own. 3. Apply nail polish in 2 or 3 different shades of orange to the loops. If your loops aren’t too big, this shouldn’t be very hard. 4. Let dry for at least half an hour. 5. Cover the trunk, roots, and as much of the branches as you can with dark brown or black paper tape.

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Keep your eye on

Top tart

How a girl and her pastries went from front-stoop bake sales to Whole Foods shelves TEXT by Shaila Wunderlich PHOTOGRAPHY by

Alexandra Grablewski

Meghan Ritchie wasn’t thinking “pastry empire” when she started selling donuts off the stoop of her Brooklyn brownstone in 2007. All she cared about then was matching her love of baking with the hungry hipsters and school kids walking by on their way to the subway each morning. “We would make the dough the night before and cut, rise, and fry them the next morning,” Meghan says. “We set out cookie sheets on the stairs and made signs with sidewalk chalk. We kept our earnings in a cigar box.”

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It didn’t take long for casual passersby to become addicted regulars, some of whom began calling ahead for bigger orders. Rather than continue with donuts, however, Meghan thought it might be clever to sell a more portable pastry. Tarts popped to mind. “Pies have always been my thing, but you can’t walk around with a whole pie,” Meghan says. “I had a hunch people might get into some sort of hand tart—the nostalgia of it all.” She was right. At local food fair Smorgasburg, Meghan teamed with artisanal jam company Anarchy in a Jar to create a hand tart: buttery, flaky (“but not too flaky!”), square pastries engorged with mouth-watering, summer-fresh jam. They were a hit. That was the summer of 2011, four years after that first summer on the stoop selling 3 dozen donuts a week. Today she makes 3,000 tarts a week, both online and to more than 20 New York cafés and markets. In spring 2012, New York-area Whole Foods began carrying Megpies. No doubt it is that blessed marriage of crust and fruit—practiced to perfection by Meghan—that keeps Megpies’ fans so frenzied. But it’s something less tactical that brings them to the tarts in the first place. “I’ve never had a Kellogg’s Pop-Tart in my life,” Meghan says. “But I do believe it’s people’s memories of Pop-Tarts that attract them to us. It’s something they grew up with, and here is a grownup version with homemade jams.” Even filling-preferences tend toward the old school. “We try to cater to the seasons,” Meghan says. “We’ll do a sour cherry in the summer or blackberry in the spring; I like a Concord grape and pumpkin in the fall. But for the most part, people just want their strawberries and brown sugars.” Find Megpies Tarts online at megpiesnyc. com, or at more than 30 New York-area cafés, markets, and Whole Foods Markets. Prices range from $9 for a 3-piece box to $30 for a 10-piece box.

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The debut cookbook from Jessica Merchant, founder of the beloved blog How Sweet Eats 150 fun, easy and absolutely

extraordinary recipes for breakfast, lunch, dinner, dessert and everything in between

“This is a glorious cookbook!” —REE DRUMMOND, #1 New York Times best-selling author of The Pioneer Woman Cooks

Available Now! www.howsweeteats.com/cookbook

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Megpies Tarts Makes 10-12 tarts or 24 mini tarts Pastry: This pastry dough is a variation on an all-butter pie crust recipe. I wanted to reduce the flakiness and create a crust for a hand held tart that would be dense enough to carry around without the risk of crumbling, but light enough to taste like heaven. The key to this is incorporating the butter into the flour thoroughly before adding any liquids. I’ve found that mixing this dough in my stand mixer with the paddle attachment works like a charm and saves me from a bit of the labor. This dough can also be made by hand or in a food processer if either is your preferred method.

2½ cups all purpose flour 1 cup unsalted butter, diced in to small pieces 1 tablespoon sugar 1¼ teaspoons salt ¼ cup water (the dough may need more or less water to fully come together) 1. Mix the flour, sugar and salt together in the bowl of your mixer or in a large bowl. Add the diced butter to the flour mixture and stir just until the butter is coated with the flour. 2. With your mixer on low speed, mix the ingredients until the butter is fully incorporated and resembles light yellow cornmeal. You don’t want to have any large chunks of butter left. 3. Still on low speed, add half of the water, then add water a few tablespoons at a time until the dough comes together in a ball. 4. Divide the dough in to 2 equal pieces. Pat the pieces into a flat square shape and wrap each piece. Refrigerate for 10–20 minutes while you prepare the fillings. The dough can be refrigerated overnight or frozen for up to 2 months at this point. Fillings: These tarts can be filled with a multitude of ingredients both sweet and savory. My favorite filling by far though, is fruity delicious jam!

Jam:

1½ tablespoons corn starch 1½ tablespoons water 10 oz jam, my favorites are Anarchy in a Jar’s Strawberry Balsamic or Triple Berry jams 1. Mix the cornstarch with water until thoroughly combined. Mixing these together before adding to the jam will help reduce clumping. 2. In a small saucepan, combine the jam and cornstarch mixture. Cook over medium heat, stirring as you bring it to a boil. 3. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring until the jam thickens, about 1–2 minutes. Set it aside to cool. Assembling and baking the tarts: We make a scalloped-edge square tart, but we love to mix it up and make heart shaped tarts for Valentine's Day or circles for lollipop tarts. These tarts can be made with your favorite cookie cutters or by cutting the dough evenly in rectangles or squares with a knife. I find that mini tarts are the most fun to eat. 2x2” squares are my favorite size! 4x4” is a nice size for breakfast or tea. 1. Preheat your oven to 350°F. 2. Roll out your first piece of dough on a well-floured surface. You’ll want a thickness of about 1⁄8 ". Cut in to desired shapes. Repeat process with second piece of dough. You will want to have 2 matching pieces per tart, a top piece and a bottom piece. Arrange the pieces so you have an even number of bottoms and tops. 3. Spread the jam in the center of half of your tart pieces. About 1 tablespoon of jam filling for large tarts and a ½ teaspoon for minis will be generous without overfilling. 4. Brush the other half of your pieces with a little water and place on top of the filled pieces. Press the edges together gently with your fingers or a fork to seal them. 5. Place them on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and bake for 20 minutes or until golden brown and cooked on the bottom.

Don’t underestimate nostalgia. It wins out every time—Meghan Ritchie Icing: We make flavored icings to match the jams or fillings inside each tart. A glaze is super simple to make and endlessly customizable.

2 cups confectioners’ sugar 3 tablespoons lemon juice 2 to 3 tablespoons jam 1. Whisk ingredients together until fully combined and smooth. You can add more jam for a brighter color and more lemon juice if the icing is too thick. TIP: If you have scrap dough left over it can be rolled out again for more tarts or you can sprinkle the pieces with cinnamon and sugar and bake for sweet cookies. They are also equally as delicious baked with a little olive oil, rosemary and salt!

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My happy dish

RECIPE by Karen Hale | STYLING+PHOTOGRAPHY by Paul Lowe

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This dish makes me happy because it is the perfect fall dish! After our family goes apple picking each fall, it is the first recipe I make with our fresh picks from the day. After a summer of grilling and salads, it’s a comfortfood indulgence that we just love! It’s known in my home as “candy meat!” Candy Pork with Apples & Pears

2 lbs pork loin ½ cup light brown sugar 1 cup real maple syrup 2 apples 2 pears ½ tablespoon nutmeg 1 tablespoon cinnamon ½ tablespoon cumin ½ tablespoon ginger 2 bay leaves pinch of thyme pinch of rosemary

“My Happy Dish” recipe winner

Karen Hale

1. Preheat oven to 360°F. 2. Place pork loin in 9x12" baking dish and rub all sides with brown sugar. 3. Pour half of maple syrup over pork. 4. Cut apples and pears into wedges and place on and around pork. 5. In a bowl, mix the nutmeg, cinnamon, cumin, and ginger, then sprinkle on top of pork and fruit. 6. Top with bay leaves, thyme, and rosemary, then add remaining maple syrup. 7. Bake until cooked through, about 1 hour. Best served with garlic mashed potatoes, because I encourage you to use the sauce that’s cooked in the pan as a gravy on the potatoes!

Want to be a “My Happy Dish” Winner? Submit your ORIGINAL recipe to the My Happy Dish Recipe Contest. If we select your recipe, Sweet Paul will prepare the dish and photograph it for an issue of Sweet Paul Magazine! To submit your original recipe visit sweetpaulmag.com

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EXPERIENCE the FLAVORS of the MEDITERRANEAN at HOME

“A beautiful celebration of Mediterranean cooking.” –Alice Waters, owner of Chez Panisse and author of The Art of Simple Food

“This book will immediately join my kitchen library on the ‘use now and forever’ shelf.” –Mario Batali, chef/entrepreneur

AVAILABLE WHEREVER BOOKS ARE SOLD OCTOBER 2014

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Books 940 Saturdays Harley Rotbart Fact: There are 940 Saturdays between a baby's birth and his or her 18th birthday. Renowned pediatrician Harley Rotbart’s book and journal not only offers ideas on how to fill each Saturday with an activity, but also a journal to help you document their childhood. Random House, $25 Thirteen Dots Coloring Book Robert Escalera This is hands-down the most chic coloring book I've come across. Robert Escalera takes 13 simple dots and charms them up with his wonderful and stylish illustrations. You're going to want to color each page all by yourself! Karen Adams, $28

ALSo AvAiLAbLe fRom St. mARtin’S GRiffin: Monster Knits for Little Monsters by nuriya Khegay Little Aran & Celtic Knits for Kids by martin Storey f o l l ow u s at : www.smpcraft.com

Molly Goodall is the creator of the unique children’s clothing brand Little Goodall. Searching for an innovative solution when her toddler son refused to wear a coat, she designed and made the original Ferocious Felt Lion coat to inspire him to put his hood up in the cold. Molly holds a BFA in Fashion Design from Parsons The New School for Design and has a background in childrenswear, toy design, and fine art. Little Goodall is a family-owned business and the line is lovingly made by hand in North Texas. Visit the company’s website and Molly’s blog at www.littlegoodall.com.

to Sew and Wear Molly Goodall

Molly Goodall

15 charming and unique garments and accessories for sewing levels from beginner through advanced that will charm every adventurous sewist and their little loved ones. Through beautiful photography, detailed illustrated directions, and a CD with patterns for sizes from 18 months to 6 years, designer Molly Goodall guides readers as they create clothing to delight and inspire.

Wild Things to Sew and Wear

Sew something a little wild for your little wild one.

Wild Things

Cover design by Rosamund Saunders Cover photograph by Hoyoung Lee of Sohostory

fac e b o o k . c o m / s m p c r a f t twitter.com/smpcraft www.pinterest.com/smpcraft

$2 2 . 9 9 / $ 2 6 . 9 9 c a n .

w w w . s t m a rt i n s . c o m

s t . m a rt i n ’ s g r i f f i n

175 fifth avenue, new york, n. y . 10010 printed in china

15 animal-themed garments and accessories for your little critters

PaTT ern CD inCl uDe D

Mexico: The Cookbook Margarita Carrillo Arronte Mexico: The Cookbook is the difinitive bible of Mexican home cooking. I'm a huge fan of huge cookbooks that cover a cuisine from A to Z. This book is filled with every classic Mexican recipe you could ever want. ¡Buen provecho! Phaidon, $50 Wild Things to Sew & Wear: 15 Animal-Themed Garments and Accessories for Your Little Critters and You Molly Goodall I just love the adorable animal motifs that adorn all of these sewing projects. I wouldn't hesitate to create these garments in my size and I'm sure you'll feel the same.

The techniques section and pattern CD both ensure that you'll be able to execute the projects with happy results. St. Martin's Griffin, $23 Beauty Everyday Rinne Allen, Kristen Bach, & Rebecca Wood Beauty Everyday is enormous in both size and elegance. It's filled with 365 beautiful photographs of Southern beauty. Each day you can open the book to a new page that is sure to enhance your coffee table and your day. $98 Flea Market Fabulous: Designing Gorgeous Rooms with Vintage Treasures Lara Spencer Lara Spencer, New York Times best selling author and host of HGTV's Flea Market Finds, has a new book chock full of design inspiration. Not only does she show you how to decorate with treasures from the flea market, she also shows you how to reinvent and update pieces to transform them from junk to gem! Lara's a woman after my own heart. Stewart Tabori & Chang, $30

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Available wherever beautiful books are sold 30 | SWEETPAULMAG.COM FALL 2014

Big Picture Press books are objects to be pored over and returned to, again and again . . . created by and made for the incurably curious. www.bigpicturepress.net

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Gorg-wanna handmade

IMAGE: Splendid Love Shop

Pair of metallic storage baskets with hand printed linen and canvas Splendid Love Shop, $38 etsy.com/shop/ SplendidLoveShop

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1. Aya pillow covers ChaneeVijayTextiles, $75 each, etsy.com/shop/ ChaneeVijayTextiles 2. Pineapple print Two Moons and a Fry, $5, etsy.com/shop/ twomoonsandafry 3. Mini concrete container with gold metallic accent ReRunRoom, $8, etsy.com/shop/ReRunRoom

4. Dipped white tray, natural wood The Vintage Vogue Story, $60, etsy.com/shop/ thevintagevoguestory

WILL’S FAVORITE

5. Shiny metallic gold free standing ampersand The Sparklette, $39 etsy.com/shop/thesparklette 6. Mini metallic gold glitter clothespins Anastasia Marie Shop, $6 etsy.com/shop/ AnastasiaMarieShop 7. Metallic mason jars Style Jars and Cans, $12, etsy.com/shop/ StyleJarsandCans

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Cookin’ up romance TEXT by Aimee Swartz PHOTOGRAPHY by Frances Janisch

Mat Rosa and Jen Ramos have been cooking together for 16 years—four of them as husband and wife. From the moment Mat whipped up his famous tuna sandwiches from his kitchen-less Brooklyn apartment—“totally unromantic but nonetheless memorable,” he said— preparing and enjoying meals together has always been an important part of their relationship 34 | SWEETPAULMAG.COM FALL 2014

Earlier this year, cooking took on an even greater meaning when the couple started Pot Pan Knife—an NYC-based cooking workshop—to help fund the costs associated with adopting their first child. Along the way, they hope to inspire other couples to cook for one another. Each class at Pot Pan Knife is based around a theme, with dishes ranging from basic to advanced. In the breakfast class, for example, Mat teaches couples how to whip up a batch of French Toast and creamy Scrambled Eggs (before tackling the ever-challenging Eggs Benedict). In the desserts class, students learn how to perfect a juicy Apple Crisp, a Flourless Chocolate Cake, and Crème Brûlée. Students also learn to place an emphasis on thoughtful touches—such as plating and presentation—when making a special meal for their partner. “I truly believe the dishes made with love, as opposed to ones you just throw together for a meal, actually taste better,” Mat said. We were lucky enough to catch Mat in action at a recent Pot Pan Knife class, and he took a moment to chat. Here’s what he had to say. AS: How did you come up with the idea to start Pan Pot Knife? MR: Jen and I, unable to have children, decided to adopt. Pot Pan Knife was my contribution to raising funds. Jen paints (through her company/site Cocoa & Hearts) and I guess Pan Pot Knife is just my version of that. I used to teach at UNLV and Art Institute and Jen always said I had a gift for teaching, so this basically combines my two favorite things (other than my marriage, that is!). AS: How did you learn to cook? MR: Growing up, my mother taught my sister and I to cook. She had a lot of patience and always explained everything. Later, she became a chef. I received culinary training at Cornell University (School of Hotel Administration) and worked in several food service places. When I finished, I took another career path (as a software engineer) but continued to cook all the time.

Food is a very basic means to express love AS: What inspires your cooking? MR: I get inspiration from a lot of places. There’s the obvious, like Pinterest and Instagram, but often I just get a feeling to try something. The foods I consider inspirations are usually either colorful or mix unusual items more than anything else. AS: What’s your go-to romantic dish? MR: The most romantic dish is one that requires effort in the details. Jen likes breakfasts. So Eggs Benedict with muffins cut into hearts. Another time I made pancakes with faces—three of them to represent us with the baby we will be adopting. If you asked me, I still swing towards desserts as romantic—Crème Brûlée or strawberries with sabayon are always super sexy. AS: Do you have a special meal that you make for Jen? MR: Not a meal so much—it’s dessert that moves Jen. Usually it’s the simple ones, but the current is a dairy-free Dark Chocolate Mousse Pie made with silken tofu. Part of making a meal special is simply that I took the time to conceive of a dish or menu, make it, and then try to present it artfully. Half of eating is what you see—make it look good and half the job is done. AS: Name a dish you’d like to try or perfect but haven’t yet. MR: Sounds crazy, but I am terrible at making pancakes. I’d really like to work on that.

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GLUTEN-FREE RECIPES are a piece of cake

AVAILABLE EVERYWHERE BOOKS ARE SOLD “This is the perfect book of classic and sophisticated cakes that happen to be gluten-free. From Boston Cream Pie to Bûche de Noël, you will find a cake for every occasion. As a former pastry chef myself, I cannot get enough.” —Aran Goyoaga, creator of Cannelle et Vanille and author of Small Plates and Sweet Treats

@tenspeedpress

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| TEN SPEED PRESS | tenspeedpress.com

Will’s picks Throw Title a fall feast

IMAGE: Lexington Company

IfCopy fun fiesta is the celebration of summer, then a fabulous feast is the dinner party to embrace for fall. Gather friends, layer the table, and serve your favorite warming comfort foods for an evening of autumnal charm. Here’s our pick of the best from the market to make the magic happen

Hampton Bayside tablecloth, $125, lexingtoncompany.com

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IMAGE: Lexington Company

The making of a fabulous fall tablescape Fall is the season for hunkering down and welcoming your nearest and dearest into your home for quality time. Shared food, enlightening conversation, flickering candlelight, and warming textiles—these are the elements that tell the story of a great fall feast. The aim is to create a relaxed-yet-sophisticated vibe via a series of pared-back pieces and a smattering of luxurious touches. The key to making this work when it comes to your entertaining tablescape is to embrace natural textures and elements. Think tactile and welcoming linens paired with rough wooden serving platters and rustic-industrial metal dining chairs from salvage yards—opt for a mix-and-match approach for an organic, thrown-together look. At a time when the air is cooler and the days ever shorter, you want to be sure that the table oozes warmth and comfort, but still reflects the falling of the leaves and the change of the season. A line of fallen leaves in varying hues of the season— amber, ochre, burnt orange, and so on—down the center of the table is an easy way to instantly tell the story of the tablescape. Either side, line with rough earthenware dinnerware, classic plaid patterned table linens, simple glassware, and flickering tea lights in glass jars. Let the natural colors and textures of a wooden dining table play the role of stage to your other tabletop elements. Finally, if you wish to soften the look, layer in a series of checked throws on the backs of dining chairs (great if you plan an early fall dinner out on the deck) or place small accent pillows to up the comfort level.

Authentic navy striped oxford napkin, $12, lexingtoncompany.com

Will’s tip! When you are entertaining, you want to be sure that the kitchen is set up to function smoothly—these metal storage tins from H&M Home are not only a budget steal but they’re as stylish as they are practical Storage tins, from $19, hm.com

IMAGE: H&M

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W I L L’ S P I C K S

Will’s tip! Depending on the size of your dining room table, hang between one and three of these pendant lights over it to create a cozy atmosphere. Their industrial look is on trend, too!

Factory Light No. 5 cable, from $299, schoolhouseelectric.com

1. Bronze bamboo spoon Leif, $12, leifshop.com 2. Tiered wired basket Old Faithful Shop, $82, oldfaithfulshop.com 3. Black clay dinnerware Lexington Company, $125, lexingtoncompany.com

4. Swiss dot lace tray Leif, $80, leifshop.com 5. Amadora mug in light grey Canvas, $8, canvashomestore.com 6. Slatted stacking chair Anthropologie, $248, anthropologie.com

7. Cereal bowl Heath Ceramics, $31, heathceramics.com 8. Copper casserole dish John Lewis, $210, johnlewis.com

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From Mormor’s kitchen Title Halloween, baked

Copy apples, and Dad screaming like a girl!

FOOD+STYLING+PHOTOGRAPHY by Paul Lowe

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It was the year I tried to introduce Halloween to Oslo. You might not know this, but Halloween is not really celebrated in most parts of Europe. It’s a very American tradition. As a kid, I remember I once saw an old American movie that was set around Halloween. I was spellbound by all the pumpkins, candy, and costumes. So I decided that I wanted to throw a Halloween party. As we lived in a kind of remote area and I didn’t really care for other kids, the invitation list was my Mormor, great aunt, and myself. Mormor got hold of a pumpkin that we carved into a face. Then there was, of course, the age old question of what to wear. I changed my mind every day—it went from doctor to bear, flight attendant, and little Lord Fauntleroy. Mormor thought it would be a good idea for us all to dress up as witches. She bought tons of thin black fabric and we started making the costumes. The day came, we got dressed, and I wanted to go from house to house and show off our fab costumes. Somehow Mormor talked me out of it. Instead we stayed home, she told scary stories, and we made baked apples filled with marzipan, butter, cinnamon, and sugar. When my parents came home late at

night, we hid behind a big tree in the garden and scared them. It was the only time I heard my dad scream like a little girl! Happy Halloween! Baked Apples with Marzipan Serves 4

4 semi-tart apples 1 tablespoon+2 tablespoons butter 8 oz marzipan ¼ cup light brown sugar 1 teaspoon cinnamon ¼ cup slivered almonds whipped cream, for serving ice cream, for serving 1. Preheat oven to 400°F. 2. Grease an ovenproof dish with 1 tablespoon butter. 3. Core the apples, but don’t core them all the way to the bottom. You don’t want all the good stuff to run out the bottom! 4. Scoop out as much of the apple as you can to make room for the filling. 5. In a bowl, mix marzipan, sugar, cinnamon, and 2 tablespoons butter. It’s messy, so use your fingers. 6. Fill the apples with the mixture and sprinkle almonds on top. 7. Bake for about 25–30 minutes. Let cool slightly before serving with some whipped cream or ice cream.

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Gorg-wanna kids

IMAGE: Bemz

Heaboard cover, Bemz, from $119 bemz.com

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2. 1.

WILL’S FAVORITE

4. 3.

1. Varese origami mobile Pippi and Jip, $49, pippiandjip.co.uk 2. Soul mate birdie bedding This Modern Life, $84, thismodernlife.co.uk

3. Punk cushion H&M Home, $13, hm.com 4. Temporary tattoos, modern animals Sass and Peril, $6, etsy.com/shop/ sassandperil 5. Oscar Diaz Bauhaus wall hanging Molly Meg, $74, mollymeg.com 6. Pyramid storage Ligaea, price on request, lilgaea.com 7. Baby jumpsuit Bobo Choses, $66, bobochoses.com

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Gorg-wanna woof Treat time

I love making treats for my boys—that way I know what they eat. They get one everyday after their mid-morning walk. The treats disappear within seconds Banana & Pumpkin Treats Makes about 40

1 very ripe banana ½ can pumpkin purée 1 tablespoon honey 1½ cups whole wheat flour ½ teaspoon baking powder 1. Preheat the oven to 360°F. 2. In a large bowl, mix banana, pumpkin, and honey. I find using my hands works best. 3. Add flour and baking powder and work in into the mixture. If it’s too wet, add more flour. It should be a dry dough. 4. Roll it out in a little flour and cut out shapes with a cookie cutter. 5. Place on a baking tray covered with parchment paper and bake for 10–12 minutes. They should be lightly golden. 6. Cool on a wire rack. Store in a jar with a closed lid.

RECIPE+PHOTOGRAPHY by Paul Lowe

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PAUL’S FAVORITE

1. Italian Greyhound art Growler, $454, growler-london.co.uk 2. Houndworthy classic tee Houndworthy, $40, houndworthy.com 3. Metal black dog bowl Mungo and Maud, $17, mungoandmaud.com

4. Dogs trust slim jug Fanella Smith, $46, fenellasmith.com 5. Stardust dog collar Zee Dog, $00 zee-dog.com 6. Bertie and grey stripe cushion Plum and Ashby, $64 plumandashby.co.uk

7. Personalised leather dog bone name tag Not On The High Street, $13 notonthehighstreet.com

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One for the season

FOOD+STYLING by Michaela Hayes, Crock & Jar | PHOTOGRAPHY by Paul Lowe

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Stone fruit season is a special time of year—when plums, nectarines, and peaches call out from the farmers market stands and beg to be eaten out of hand with juice dripping down my chin. There really is no substitute for a fresh local peach. So while they are in season, I encourage you to eat as many as you can. And when you’ve had your fill, preserve the rest. Or, as they say, “Eat what you can, and what you can’t, can.” While I was living in Santa Cruz, California, I worked with Erin Justus Lampel, the talented baker behind Companion Bakeshop, to host a jam making and canning class at the bakery. Bread and jam are an obvious and delicious pairing. I developed a couple of recipes for the class and these Spiced Peach Preserves were my favorite. Simple and straightforward, they take the deliciousness of the peaches and dress them up to taste like pie in a jar. They are sweet and tangy and lightly spiced. Spread them on bread to liven up your morning toast, or use, like I did, as a pie filling to remind you of those glory days of fresh stone fruit season after they have gone. To make things a little more fun (and to make a little bit of preserves go further), I decided to make hand pies. Travelling as a young photo assistant in the South, handmade hand pies were a seldom and sought after treat at small gas stations along the blue highways. Those little pies were the perfect vessel for an assortment of fruit fillings, and a welcome sweet treat as we continued on our journeys. I don’t eat wheat or dairy anymore, and I took it as a personal challenge to create a hand pie I would be happy to eat. You can use any basic pie dough recipe to create these pies; for the gluten and dairy free version shown here, go to crockandjar.com/peach-hand-pies.

Spiced Peach Preserves Yields approximately 5 8oz jars

6 cups peeled and chopped peaches 3 cups sugar 2 tablespoons lemon juice ½ teaspoon grated lemon zest ¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg ¼ teaspoon ground ginger ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon 1. Prepare waterbath, jars, and lids. 2. Heat all ingredients together in a heavy pan on medium heat until the fruit starts to give up liquid. 3. Turn heat up to high and cook mixture, stirring consistently to prevent burning.

test how they gel using the chilled plate test. (Do this test by chilling a plate in the refrigerator. Drop the preserves on the chilled plate and see if it gels. If it doesn’t, continue cooking and test again.) 5. Remove preserves from heat and skim off foam. 6. Ladle preserves into warm canning jars, leaving ¼ inch headspace. Wipe rims. Apply lids and bands and adjust to fingertip tight. 7. Process jars for 10 minutes in a boiling water bath. 8. Cool jars and check them for a proper seal.

4. Cook preserves until they thicken and

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Sweet Paul Magazine Wedding

ANNUAL WEDDING ISSUE

2014/2015

Click here for the digital edition / Click here for the print edition 50 | SWEETPAULMAG.COM FALL 2014

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Gorg-wanna design

IMAGE: H&M

Cushions, H&M, from $13, H&M Home

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4. 5.

1. Our French friend brass light French Connection, $143, frenchconnection.com 2. Feathers wallpaper Mini Moderns, $93 per roll, minimoderns.com 3. Kitchenalia tea towel Hector & Haddock, $17, hectorandhaddock.com WILL’S FAVORITE

4. Alliance tasselled tote Anthropologie, $148, anthropologie.com 5. Small gold coin earrings The Hambledon, $83, thehambledon.com 6. Roadhouse leather chair CB2, $259, cb2.com 7. Simple espresso cup Folklore, $27, shopfolklore.com

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Keep track of in all of your favorite places!

Pickling! Fruits, vegetables, you name it—there is a way to pickle it. Whether it is a quick refrigerator pickle, a pickle that you can into jars to stock your pantry, or a nutritionally packed fermented pickle, there are an infinite variety of ways to add more flavor to your local winter meals. These are some of my new seasonal favorites. Now is the time, so get pickling!

FOOD by Michaela Hayes | STYLING by Sarah Cave | PHOTOGRAPHY by Susanna Blavarg

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Download all back issues as PDF files! gumroad.com/sweetpaul

S PR I NG 2014

FA L L 201 3 W I N T E R 201 3

S U M M E R 201 3

WINTER 2012 • NO. 11

SUMMER 2012 • NO. 9 FALL 2012 • NO. 10

S PR I NG 201 3 1

SPRING 2012 • NO. 8

WINTER 2011 • NO. 7

FALL 2011 • NO. 6

SUMMER 2011 • NO. 5

1 | S W E E T PAU L S P R I N G 2 0 1 2

1 | S W E E T PA U L W I N T E R 2 0 1 1

2 | S W E E T PA U L S U M M E R 2 0 1 1

SWEET PAUL SUM M ER 2011 | 1

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PHOTOGRAPHY by Nathen Michael

features

FALL 2014 | ISSUE NO. 18

Beat it A magical Halloween Beads Persian flavors The Cuban table Autumn treehouse soirée The wonders of leaves Cauliflower Harvet feast Preserving nature Eating Emilia Romagna

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Beat It! Sweet Paul smashes and cooks with some of his favorite fall ingredients

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FOOD+STYLING by Paul Lowe | PHOTOGRAPHY by Kristin Gladney

Orange Roasted Beets with Pomegranate & Pistachio

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Potatoes 60 | SWEETPAULMAG.COM FALL 2014

I have loved the simple potato since my first bite

Baked Potato Gnocchi with Brown Butter, Pancetta, & Sage SWEETPAULMAG.COM | 61

Jerusalem artichokes

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Jerusalem Artichoke Soup with Pan Fried Cod & Herb Salad SWEETPAULMAG.COM | 63

walnuts 64 | SWEETPAULMAG.COM FALL 2014

Gorgonzola & Parmesan Pasta with Toasted Walnuts SWEETPAULMAG.COM | 65

My number one comfort spice. I use cinnamon in both sweet and savory dishes

cinnamon 66 | SWEETPAULMAG.COM FALL 2014

Mom’s Cinnamon Loaf SWEETPAULMAG.COM | 67

Potatoes I have loved the simple potato since my first bite. It’s the most versatile vegetable ever. Baked Potato Gnocchi with Brown Butter, Pancetta, & Sage Gotta love browned butter— it’s such an easy thing to make. Those baked potato gnocchis are so good and they soak up the sauce really well. Serves 4

2 lbs large Russet potatoes 2 egg yolks 1½ cups all purpose flour salt & pepper, to taste 2 sticks salted butter ½ cup diced pancetta 20 sage leaves 1. Preheat oven to 400°F. 2. Prick the potatoes with a fork so steam can get out of them. 3. Place on a rack and bake until soft. This will take about 1 hour. 4. Peel while still hot and press through a potato ricer. 5. Place in a bowl with egg yolk, flour, and salt. 6. Work the mixture together quickly. Don’t over work it as that can make it gummy in texture. 7. Take pieces of the dough. Roll into a 1”-thick sausage and cut up into 1”-long pieces.

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8. Boil gnocchis in a large pot of salted water. They are done once they float up to the surface. 9. Melt butter in a pan and stir it until it gets brown. 10. Fry sage leaves in butter and set aside. Keep warm. 11. Cook the pancetta in a pan until golden. 12. Mix gnocchi, butter, sage, and pancetta in a large bowl and season with pepper. Sweet Paul Tips! If you are not cooking your gnocchi right away, place them on a tray, dust with flour, cover, and refrigerate. They can keep up to 2 days. Jerusalem artichoke Sweet and earthy, just like a real fall vegetable should be. I love them best in soups and mashes. Jerusalem Artichoke Soup with Pan Fried Cod & Herb Salad The soup gets an amazing sweet taste from the artichokes mixed with the salty fish. Heavenly. Serves 4

2 tablespoons+more salted butter 3 medium shallots, diced 2 cloves of garlic, sliced 1½ lbs Jerusalem artichokes, peeled and diced

1 large potato, peeled and pieced 5 cups chicken stock salt & pepper, to taste 8 small slices of cod filet ½ cup parsley leaves 1 ⁄3 cup dill 1 tablespoon olive oil few drops of vinegar 1. Heat the butter in a large pot and sauté shallots and garlic until soft. 2. Add artichokes and potato and sauté for 1 minute. Add stock and let the soup simmer until all the vegetables are soft. 3. Use an emulation blender and purée the soup. Keep it warm and season with salt and pepper. 4. Season the fish with salt and pepper and sauté 1 minute on each side. 5. In a small bowl mix herbs, oil, vinegar, and a little salt. Serve the soup in warm bowls with the fish and salad. Drizzle a little oil and some pepper on top. Sweet Paul Tips! Place your peeled and chopped Jerusalem artichoke in water with some lemon juice to prevent it from turning brown.

Walnuts My favorite nut. I always roast them in a pan or the oven as it really brings out the oils in them. They’re wonderful just sprinkled with some salt and garlic as a snack. Gorgonzola & Parmesan Pasta with Toasted Walnuts I can still remember the first time I tasted Gorgonzola. It was heaven on a spoon. The walnuts add a great texture to this dish. Serves 4

½ cup walnuts 1¼ cups heavy cream ½ cup grated Parmesan+ more for serving 1 ⁄3 cup crumbled Gorgonzola pepper, to taste freshly cooked pasta, whatever kind you like the best 1. Preheat oven to 425°F. 2. Place the walnuts on a baking tray and toast until golden. 3. Heat up the cream in a medium pot, but don’t let it boil. 4. Add Parmesan and Gorgonzola and let the cheese melt into the cream while stirring. 5. Toss the sauce over freshly cooked warm pasta. 6. Roughly chop the walnuts and sprinkle on top. Beets What’s not to love? Amazing color, amazing taste, amazing everything! Orange Roasted Beets with Pomegranate & Pistachio A very simple dish but with tons of strong and bold flavors. I love the added orange, it takes this dish to the next level. Serves 4

3 lbs beets, peeled and cut into wedges 3 tablespoons olive oil juice from ½ orange salt & pepper, to taste

1 cup pomegranate seeds ¼ cup chopped pistachios grated zest from 1 orange balsamic glaze

9. Roll out the dough on a floured surface to about 10x12”.

1. Preheat oven to 425°F.

11. Place on a baking tray covered with parchment paper.

2. In a large bowl mix beets, oil, juice, salt, and pepper. 3. Spread the mixture on a large baking tray and roast the beets until soft. This will take about 15 minutes.

10. Sprinkle with cinnamon sugar and roll together to form a loaf.

12. Use scissors and make V-shape cuts to the top of the loaf. Spread them apart so the loaf looks braided.

4. Take them out and sprinkle with pomegranate, pistachio, and orange zest.

13. Let it rise for 30 minutes.

Drizzle with glaze and serve.

15. As soon as the loaf comes out of the oven, brush it with melted butter.

Cinnamon My number one comfort spice. I use cinnamon in both sweet and savory dishes. Mom’s Cinnamon Loaf My mom wasn’t a big baker but she loved baking this cinnamon loaf. It’s sweet and satisfying in every bite. Serves 8–10

14. Bake until golden. This will take about 20 minutes.

16. Cool on a wire rack 17. In a small bowl, mix confectioners’ sugar and water to make a glaze. 18. Glaze the loaf and serve.

1 envelope dry yeast ¼ cup warm water 3 cups all purpose flour ¼ cup+½ cup sugar 1 ⁄3 cup milk 3 tablespoons salted butter, melted+more, for brushing 2 eggs 2 teaspoons cinnamon confectioners’ sugar 1. In a small bowl mix water and yeast and set aside. 2. In a baking bowl, mix flour and ¼ cup sugar. 3. With the mixer going, pour in the milk, yeasted water, and melted butter. 4. Add the eggs, 1 at a time. 5. Let the machine mix for 10–12 minutes. 6. Cover the dough with plastic wrap and let it rise for 1 hour. 7. Preheat oven to 350°F. 8. In a small bowl mix ½ cup sugar and cinnamon.

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A magical Halloween

The amazing artist Mister Finch has created a magical world and some amazing projects for Sweet Paul. Enter his world and be amazed

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CRAFTS by Mister Finch | PHOTOGRAPHY by Susanna Blåvarg

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olf Mask

TIP: Do whatever looks best to you—there are no set rules here! Wolf Mask You will need:

generic paper mask thin card stock hot glue gun black felt scissors The wolf mask is a generic paper mask that I bought online. It’s half-face and 1 size fits all. I added a nose and ears that I made from thin card stock. You could even use cardboard from a cereal box. If you fold the card down the score line and push the nose slightly in before you glue it in place, it will help to create the right sort of snout shape. The ears can be gently folded half way up and glued in place. Having the ears straight up gives a very alert expression and pointed slightly back gives a more sinister style. You can play around with this before gluing. The whole mask is then covered in a felt fringe. I cut lengths of felt roughly 1-” wide and cut strips all the way up the length about a ½” from the edge. Once I had completed a few strips, I glued these in place starting at the back edge and working my way towards the front snout— slightly overlapping to give the impression of fur. I used hot glue here but you could use any craft glue. Any gaps can be filled with small pieces of felt. Here I used black felt, but you could use any color—dark ones look best. You don't have to use felt, you could experiment with other fabrics and maybe fray them for a spooky appearance! Toadstool You will need:

plastic bowls wooden sticks/branches hot glue gun masking tape papier mâché thick card stock craft paint These jolly toadstools are made from things you may already have at home. The cap is made from a plastic bowl. I got a set of them from the dollar store. The stem is a collected branch and

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oadstool

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ed Cape

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et your

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imagination run wild underneath is simply a circle of thick card stock. If you draw around the bowl onto the card, this will give you the perfect size to use. Carefully cut it out and make a hole in the center wide enough to push the stick through. I used some hot glue and masking tape to hold everything in place. Once you have a shape you are happy with, cover in 3–4 layers of papier mâché. Leave to dry. Then give a couple of coats of white paint—I used acryclic, as it is easy to use and dries quickly. Then you can decorate it in any way you like! Really let your imagination run wild. I wanted a fairy-tale look so I painted the top part of the cap red and added white spots. They look great in a simple vase or tied in bunches and lying on top of some old books. The finishing touch to your Halloween décor or table. You can make these in any size, just change the size of the bowl and branch. Red Cape You will need:

cape ribbon black craft paint wide brush We used a store-bought cape, added a new ribbon, and aged it a bit using black craft paint and a wide brush. Candle Stick You will need:

pewter pieces Superglue Here we used a collection of old pewter that we stacked on top of each other and glued together with Superglue to create this magical and whimsical candlestick. All animals can be ordered at mister-finch.com.

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These beads remind me

OF MY CHILDHOOD CRAFT PROJECTS. I HAVE TRIED TO UPDATE THE PROJECTS SO THAT THEY LOOK MODERN AND COOL BUT ARE STILL REALLY EASY TO MAKE. WHAT'S BETTER THAN A COOL CRAFT PROJECT THAT ONLY TAKES MINUTES?

CRAFT+STYLING+PHOTOGRAPHY by Paul Lowe

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Beaded Picture Hanger SWEETPAULMAG.COM | 79

Round Trivet You will need:

large wooden beads leather rope 1. Thread the beads on the leather rope and measure so it fits under your pots and pans. 2. Tie ends together. I made a few different sizes to use for different pots and pans.

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Egg Holders You will need:

small wooden beads leather rope 1. Thread the beads on the rope. 2. Measure the rope so it’s large enough to hold an egg. 3. Tie ends together.

Bead People You will need:

wooden beads in different sizes thin metal wire wire cutters 1. Start with 2 lengths of wire. Fasten a bead on the ends as shoes and thread smaller beads onto the legs. 2. Combine the 2 wires and thread beads to make the torso, head, and hair. 3. Fasten the wire and cut off any excess. 4. Take another wire and thread beads on the arms. Secure those by twisting them around the torso.

Lampshade You will need:

old metal shade base wire cutters large wooden beads Superglue 1. Find a shade with a nice shape. Flea markets and eBay are great places to look. 2. Cut off the end of the shade using a wire cutter. 3. Thread on the beads and secure each end bead with Superglue.

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Lamp You will need:

large wooden beads electric wire socket plug screw driver 1. Fasten the socket to the electric wire. (There are a lot of how-to videos about this online if you’re having trouble.) 2. Thread beads onto the wire, making it as long as you want. 3. Screw on the plug, put in a bulb, and voilà! There’s light!

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Stick Trivet You will need:

small beads thin wooden rods (I used bamboo BBQ skewers) hot glue gun 1. Hot glue 1 bead to the end of the rod. 2. Thread the rest of the beads on the rod, making it as long as you want. 3. Hot glue the last bead on the rod in place and cut off any excess rod.

Vase Décor You will need:

wooden beads in different sizes cotton string Stick Trivet

1. Thread beads in different sizes on the string. 2. Make sure the string is long enough to drape around the vase.

Vase Décor

3. Tie the ends together and tie a bead onto each end of the string. Vase from grdnbklyn.com

Beaded Picture Hanger You will need:

wooden beads rope hot glue gun wooden clothespins 1. Thread your beads on the rope, making it as short or long as you want. 2. Hot glue wooden clothespins onto beads to use as picture hangers. 3. Hang the rope between hooks and decorate with pictures.

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PERSIAN

F L AVO R S

Jeweled Rice

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Beet & Yogurt Dip

Some of the hottest kitchens right now are Persian, with a myriad of spices, herbs, and nuts. These dishes will turn your kitchen into a 1,001-night feast FOOD STYLING by Eugene Jho | PROP STYLING by Nidia Cueva | PHOTOGRAPHY by Armando Rafael

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Cucumbers & Radishes With Salt & Za’atar Za’atar is a popular Middle Eastern spice mixture that has endless uses. It can be used to season meat, sprinkle on breads, stir into dips, or, as here, paired with some olive oil and salt as an accompaniment to fresh, crunchy veggies. Serves 4–6

3 Persian cucumbers 1 bunch French Breakfast radishes Za’atar glug of olive oil salt & pepper, to taste Za’atar:

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh oregano 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh thyme 2 tablespoons sumac 4 teaspoons cumin 1 tablespoon sesame seeds, toasted Mixed Herb Salad Sabzi Khordan is a bountiful assortment of fresh herbs served alongside most meals. In this take, a variety of herbs are paired with blood oranges and feta to create a hugely flavorful and aromatic salad that pairs nicely with meat and rice dishes. Serves 4–6

Cucumbers & Radishes With Salt & Za’atar

2 cups roughly chopped parsley 1 cup roughly chopped chervil ½ cup roughly chopped dill ½ cup roughly chopped basil ½ cup roughly chopped mint ½ cup roughly chopped tarragon ½ cup chives, cut in ½" pieces 2 red scallions, bottoms only, thinly sliced 2 blood oranges, supremed ½ cup crumbled French feta 1 tablespoon honey ½ cup olive oil 4 tablespoons verjus or lemon juice 1. Toss the herbs in a bowl with the blood orange and feta. 2. Whisk honey, olive oil, and verjus or lemon juice, and drizzle over salad. Season with salt and pepper, and serve immediately.

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Mixed Herb Salad

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Roasted Eggplant & Caramelized Onions

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Beet & Yogurt Dip In this traditional dip, known as Borani Laboo, tangy yogurt is combined with sweet, roasted beets. For another layer of flavor and some crunch, I like to add toasted walnuts on top. Serves 4–6

2 medium red or chioggia beets 1 cup Greek yogurt ½ cup toasted walnuts 1 tablespoon lemon juice salt & pepper, to taste lavash or pita, for serving 1. Heat the oven to 400°F. 2. Peel beets, wrap in aluminum foil, and roast for about 1 hour, until tender. 3. Coarsely chop walnuts and toast on a sheet pan until lightly browned. This will take about 5–7 minutes. 4. When cool enough to handle, coarsely grate beets and mix with yogurt, lemon juice, salt, and pepper.

almonds on a sheet tray until lightly browned. Set aside. 4. Rinse rice under cold water until the water runs clear. 5. Bring the 3½ cups of water and orange blossom water to a boil in a pot, and add rice. 6. Reduce heat to low and cover. 7. Cook until rice is tender. This will take about 15 minutes. 8. Combine barberries, raisins, and orange zest in a small bowl and cover with hot water to soak until barberries and raisins have plumped up. This will take about 7 minutes. 9. Drain. 10. Place saffron in another small bowl and add ¼ cup hot water. Set aside. 11. Heat butter in a large skillet over medium heat.

5. Top with toasted walnuts.

12. Add onion and sauté until it starts to caramelize. This will take about 8–10 minutes.

Serve with flatbread, like lavash or pita.

13. Add cardamom, cumin, turmeric, and 1 tablespoon saffron mixture.

Jeweled Rice Traditionally served at weddings, Javaher Polow, as it’s known in Iran, really lives up to its name. The gorgeous colors and flavors make this rice dish as beautiful to see as it is delicious to eat. Serves 6–8

⁄3 cup pistachios ⁄3 cup slivered almonds 2 cups basmati rice 3½ cups water 2 tablespoons orange blossom water 1 orange, zest peeled and sliced into ½” slivers ¼ cup dried barberries ¼ cup golden raisins ½ teaspoon saffron 2 tablespoons butter 1 medium yellow onion, chopped ½ teaspoon ground cardamom ¼ teaspoon ground cumin ¼ teaspoon turmeric ½ cup pomegranate seeds 1 1

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. 2. Roughly chop the pistachios. 3. Toast the pistachios and slivered

14. Cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant. This will take about 1 minute. 15. Reduce heat to low and add barberries, raisins, and zest. 16. Cook for a couple of minutes, and season with salt and pepper. Set aside. 17. In a large bowl, gently mix rice with the onion and fruit mixture, remaining saffron, reserved nuts, and pomegranate seeds. Roasted Eggplant & Caramelized Onions Persian cuisine is filled with delicious preparations of eggplant. In this recipe, eggplants are roasted and left whole, and paired with familiar Persian flavors: tangy yogurt, sweet caramelized onions, and bright sumac. Serves 4–6

2 medium eggplants 1 ⁄3 cup olive oil 2 tablespoons butter 1 teaspoon sumac 1½ cups Greek yogurt 1 clove garlic, minced ¼ teaspoon cumin

2 teaspoons lemon juice salt, to taste 2 medium yellow onions ½ cup pomegranate seeds 1 tablespoon chopped mint, for garnish 1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. 2. Cut eggplants in half, lengthwise, and brush with all of the olive oil. 3. Season with salt, pepper, and sumac. 4. Roast on a sheet pan until the eggplants are nicely browned. This will take about 30–45 minutes. 5. Meanwhile, mix yogurt with minced garlic, cumin, lemon juice, and salt, and set aside. 6. Peel and slice onions into ¼” slices. 7. Melt butter in a skillet over medium heat, and sauté onions until they are caramelized. 8. Season with salt and set aside. 9. Once the eggplants are roasted, top with caramelized onions, pomegranate, and mint, and drizzle with olive oil. Serve with the seasoned yogurt.

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Fried Baby Artichokes

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Fried Baby Artichokes These fried baby artichokes are like popcorn. Just bite-sized, they’re much less prep work than their larger counterparts because their chokes are edible. The dusting of sumac at the end gives a tart, citrusy flavor to cut through the deep-fried goodness. Serves 4

10 to 15 baby artichokes glug of olive oil 4 cloves of garlic, smashed, peels left on 3 tablespoons sumac 1. Prepare the artichokes by trimming the stems and peeling away any tough outer leaves. Trim tops until you reach the tender core, then quarter. 2. In a medium pot, pour enough olive oil to come up about 2”. 3. Heat over medium-high heat, until about 300°F. 4. Place garlic cloves in the oil, and fry until golden brown to season the oil. Remove. 5. Fry the artichoke in batches, taking care not to crowd the pot. Fry until golden brown and crispy. This will take about 6–8 minutes. 6. Let drain on paper towels.

Lentil Soup with Dried Lime

Season immediately with salt and sumac, and serve. Lentil Soup with Dried Lime Dried limes, or limu omani, provide a complex flavor to many Iranian dishes. They not only give the tang of a fresh lime, but also add a fermented, musky depth of flavor. In this lentil soup, the dried lime and sumac add brightness to match the fresh herbs. Serves 4–6

3 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium onion, chopped 1 medium carrot, chopped 2 celery stalks, chopped ½ cup red lentils ½ cup beluga lentils ¼ teaspoon turmeric 1 teaspoon paprika 3 tablespoons chopped parsley 3 tablespoons chopped dill 2 tablespoons chopped mint 1 black lime, poked with a knife 2 teaspoons sumac 5 to 6 fresh chopped tomatoes, or a 14 oz can salt & black pepper, to taste 1. Heat oil in a large pot over medium heat and sauté onion, carrots, and celery until soft, but not browned. This will take about 6–7 minutes. 2. Add red lentils, beluga lentils, turmeric, paprika, parsley, dill, mint, black lime, and sumac. Stir to combine.

Roasted Leg| of SWEETPAULMAG.COM 93Lamb

Date & Pistachio Cake with Candied Orange

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3. Add enough water to cover everything by about 1”. 4. Raise the heat to bring to a boil, and then lower to simmer. 5. Once the lentils are fully cooked, about half an hour, add the chopped tomatoes and salt. 6. Let simmer an additional 10 minutes. 7. Season to taste with salt and pepper. 8. Remove the black lime. Serve immediately, and garnish with mint, parsley, and dill. Roasted Leg of Lamb Advieh is an aromatic spice blend that combines cinnamon, nutmeg, cardamom, coriander, cumin, rose petals, and other spices. Uniquely warm, rather than spicy, and immensely fragrant, it works really well with strong flavored meats like lamb.

4 to 5 lbs boneless leg of lamb, trimmed and tied ¼ cup olive oil 2 tablespoons advieh salt & pepper, to taste 2 lemons 1. Place the lamb in a roasting pan and cover in olive oil.

6. Reduce the oven temperature to 325°F and cook until the lamb reaches an internal temperature of 137°F for medium rare. 7. Pull out and let rest for 15 minutes before serving. Date & Pistachio Cake with Candied Orange Dates and pistachios are a classic combination in Persian cuisine. In this cake, they’re paired with candied oranges and zest to add mild citrus and bitter notes to balance out the sweetness of the dates. Serves 12–16

1 cup pitted dates 1 cup semolina 1 cup flour 1 teaspoon baking powder 1 stick butter, melted 14 oz can sweetened condensed milk 1 egg ½ cup+¼ cup pistachios, roughly chopped 1 cup+½ cup sugar 1 cup water 4 oranges 1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.

2. Season on all sides with the advieh, salt, and pepper.

2. Soak the dates in hot water for about half an hour, to soften.

3. Cut lemons in half, squeeze juice over the lamb, and leave in the pan.

3. Drain and blend in a food processor until smooth.

4. Set the oven to 450°F and let the lamb sit at room temperature in the meanwhile.

4. Toast the semolina in a dry skillet until lightly browned.

5. Once the oven is preheated, roast the lamb for 10–15 minutes, until surface starts to brown.

5. Add flour and baking powder that has been pre-mixed. 6. In a large bowl, mix melted butter,

sweetened condensed milk, and egg using a hand mixer. 7. Add the date paste and blend well. 8. Slowly add the flour mixture, and mix well. 9. Lastly, add the chopped pistachios and incorporate. 10. Butter and flour a 9” round baking pan, and pour in batter. 11. Smooth out the top, and bake in the oven for approximately 30–40 minutes. 12. Meanwhile, heat the sugar and water in a saucepan. 13. Peel zest from 2 oranges and simmer in the sugar water syrup for about 7 minutes, until the peels are translucent. 14. Remove the zest and set aside in a bowl. 15. Slice the remaining oranges into ¼ slices, and sprinkle with ½ cup of sugar on a foil-lined sheet pan. 16. Broil until the sugar starts to caramelize and the oranges brown around the edges. 17. When the cake is ready, top with sliced oranges and orange zest. 18. Pour the remaining orange syrup to soak the cake. 19. Top with remaining pistachios.

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The Cuban Table: Celebration of Food, Flavors, and History

TEXT by Ana Sofía Peláez | PHOTOGRAPHY by Ellen Silverman | FOOD by Rebecca Jurkevich | PROPS by Lucy Attwater 96 | SWEETPAULMAG.COM FALL 2014

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Cuban food has always been about improvisation and adaptation—a rich confluence of indigenous, Spanish, African, Chinese, Caribbean, and even French cuisine that was constantly evolving. Fruits and vegetables native to the island— such as corn, yuca, and guanábana—were cultivated by the indigenous Taíno populations and supplemented a diet of fish and small game hunting

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The Spanish conquest brought livestock as well as oranges, limes, and sugar cane. Plantains and tubers such as ñame and malanga were brought from Africa. Chinese laborers introduced Cantonese cooking in the mid-nineteenth century while regional Spanish cuisine came with successive waves of immigration through the mid-twentieth century. At that point, the clocks stopped and all Cuban cooks became conservationists. Cuban life came to be seen through the prism of before and after 1959—the present realities an obstacle to remembering a picture-perfect past or imagining a more fulfilling future. For many Cuban-Americans struggling to maintain their identity over several generations, food is a pure expression of the culture they left behind or inherited from their parents. Visiting Cuban-owned restaurants and markets, I was amazed to see how many had been passed on to sons and daughters who may tweet, Instagram, and rebrand but stay true to what their parents built. Friends whose children barely speak Spanish puff up with pride when their children ask for more roasted pork on Nochebuena or pass up the brownies for a large piece of masa real filled with guava. Their sense of relief is palpable, as is the hope that not all is lost. I had expected Cuban food in the diaspora and food on the island to mirror each other, an extensive but fixed repertoire with a shared approach. What I found instead were fragments, each cook holding on to what they understood Cuban food to be and waiting for a time when they would once again be part of a greater whole. In that sense, at least, we ’re more alike than I could have imagined. Looking at Ellen Silverman’s photographs, I don’t see quiet halls or barren kitchens, but an aunt or uncle who stayed on the island, their brothers and sisters who left with their families to the United States, a neighbor who operates a paladar from her home, her husband who brings whatever fresh produce he can from the family’s farm outside of Havana, or their nephew who trained in Cuba but has gone on to become an executive chef in New York or Miami. I see all of us who know we’ve tasted something wonderful, even as we walk away. Far beyond the last fifty years of Cold War brinksmanship, familial separation, and mass migration, Cuban food has not only survived in surprising ways, but taken root in new cities, becoming a treasured part of the international food landscape. At the Cuban table these disparate elements and ingredients come together—for those who stayed, for those who left, and for those who’ve only imagined visiting but gratefully find themselves a little closer through the smells and tastes of Cuban cuisine.

Fritas a Caballo con Papitas a la Juliana (Cuban-style Hamburgers with Shoestring Fries) Makes 12 patties Victoriano Benito González started his first frita stand in Placetas, Las Villas, when he was just 12 years old. He shouldn’t have been surprised that his daughter Mercedes wanted to spend all her time at his cafeteria, El Rey de las Fritas, a Little Havana fixture since the 1970s. Over his objections, Mercedes would have the school bus drop her off there so she could spend the afternoon chatting up customers, hiding under the tables, and stealing fries. Working alongside him, she learned how to run the restaurant to his standards. The family zealously guards the secret to their frita recipe, but Mercedes offered a few suggestions for the perfect frita—pointing me toward adding chorizo to the patty mixture and away from bread crumbs. They also reserve a small amount of their special sauce to drizzle on top of the patties as they are mashed into the

griddle, making them well-done, but never dry. All the better to make room for the freshly fried potatoes piled on top. Sauce:

4 tablespoons olive oil+more as needed 1 medium yellow onion, chopped 4 large garlic cloves, chopped 2 teaspoons smoked pimentón 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon kosher salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons tomato paste 1 cup beef stock or water 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar 1 to 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce, to taste Patties:

1 lb ground beef chuck ½ lb ground pork ½ lb semi-cured Spanish chorizo, casings removed, and cut into 1" chunks 12 small potato hamburger rolls

of olive oil in a 10" heavy skillet over medium heat. 2. Add the onion, garlic, pimentón, cumin, salt, and black pepper, and cook until the onion is soft and translucent. This will take about 5 minutes. 3. Add the tomato paste and work into the onions until well blended. 4. Stir in the water, vinegar, and Worcestershire sauce and simmer an additional 5 minutes. 5. Allow the sauce to cool slightly, then pour into a food processor or blender and pulse until it is smooth and pourable (about 1½ cups). 6. To make the patties, combine the beef, pork, chorizo, and ¾ cup of the prepared sauce in a food processor and pulse until just combined or 1–2 minutes. 7. Set aside the meat mixture and reserve the remaining sauce.

1. To make the sauce, heat 2 tablespoons

Fritas a Caballo con Papitas a la Juliana

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Papas Fritas a la Juliana

Harina con Cangrejo

(Shoestring Fries) Makes 6 cups

(Cornmeal Stew with Crab) Serves 4 to 6

1½ lbs russet potatoes, peeled 3 cups peanut or canola oil sea salt, for sprinkling

In Harina con Cangrejo, fresh crabmeat is added to a peppery sofrito with a touch of hot sauce, then sprinkled with lime juice and poured over creamy cornmeal porridge. It is a particular favorite of the river goddess Oshún, represented by la Caridad del Cobre, Cuba’s patron saint. Perhaps because of this harina—or yellow cornmeal, synonymous with hard times— is a cherished comfort food.

1. Using a mandolin or food processor fitted with a julienne disc, cut the potatoes lengthwise into strips about 1⁄8” thick. 2. Soak the potatoes in water until ready to use. 3. Drain the potatoes in a colander then rinse them thoroughly until the water runs clear. 4. Pat the potatoes dry with paper towels before frying, to avoid oil splatter. 5. Heat the oil over medium-high heat in a 4-quart heavy pot until a deep-fat thermometer registers 375°F. 6. Fry the potatoes in small batches until golden, 2 to 4 minutes. 7. Transfer the potatoes to a plate lined with paper towel. 8. Return the oil to 375°F in between batches and repeat with the remaining potatoes. Sprinkle the potatoes with sea salt.

Harina con Cangrejo

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Cornmeal:

1½ cups coarse yellow cornmeal salt & freshly ground black pepper, to taste Enchilada:

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 large green bell pepper, stemmed, cored, seeded, and diced 1 large red bell pepper, stemmed, cored, seeded, and diced 1 medium white onion, diced 4 large garlic cloves, peeled and minced 14½ oz can fire-roasted tomatoes, diced 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

1 dried bay leaf ½ teaspoon sea salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ½ teaspoon pimentón ¼ teaspoon ground celery seed ½ lb fresh lump crabmeat, picked through for shells and well drained Tabasco or similar hot pepper sauce fresh lime wedges 1. Bring 6 cups of water to a boil in a heavy 5- to 6-quart pot. 2. Add the cornmeal in a steady stream, whisking constantly until well blended so that no lumps form. 3. Lower the heat to medium-low, stirring frequently until the cornmeal begins to pull away from the sides of the pot but is still creamy and smooth. This will take about 15–20 minutes. 4. Add salt and black pepper to taste. 5. Heat the oil in a 12" skillet over medium heat. 6. Add the green and red peppers, onion, and garlic, and sauté until the onion is soft and translucent. This will take about 6–8 minutes. 7. Add the tomatoes, vinegar, bay

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leaf, salt, black pepper, pimentón, and celery seed. 8. Bring to a simmer and cook until the tomatoes begin to break down, about 10 minutes. 9. Add the crab and warm until just heated through, 3–5 minutes. 10. Adjust the seasonings to taste. 11. Divide the cooked cornmeal into individual bowls and top with the crab mixture. Sprinkle with Tabasco sauce or lime juice to taste.

Arroz con Pollo (Chicken and Rice) Serves 10 In the 1950s, when poultry was more expensive than either fish or beef, Arroz con Pollo was the preferred dish for special occasions and Sunday family gatherings. It’s a one-pot meal that’s still perfect for feeding a crowd. Carmen Calzada shared her family’s recipe with me. Chicken:

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 medium green bell pepper, stemmed, cored, seeded, and cut in rounds 3 lbs bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs and drumsticks Rice:

1 cup dry white wine 4 cups water 12 oz bottle of pilsner-style beer, divided ½ lb asparagus, rinsed and trimmed 1 medium yellow onion, grated 1 cup jarred pimientos, drained and sliced 1 cup petit pois or English peas, fresh or frozen ¼ cup tomato paste 3 large garlic cloves, peeled and mashed to a paste 1 tablespoon kosher salt 1 cube chicken bouillon ¾ teaspoon freshly ground achiote seeds or Bijol seasoning ½ teaspoon dried oregano ½ teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg

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3½ cups Valencia or similar short-grain rice, rinsed 1. Preheat the oven to 325ºF. 2. Heat the olive oil over medium-high heat in an ovenproof, 6-quart heavy pot or Dutch oven until hot but not smoking. 3. Add the green pepper to the oil. 4. Working in batches, brown the chicken on both sides, 2–3 minutes per side. 5. Set aside the browned chicken and repeat with remaining pieces. 6. Remove the green pepper and discard. 7. To deglaze the pot, add the wine and bring to a simmer, scraping up the browned bits. 8. Return the browned chicken to the pot. 9. Add the remaining ingredients except for the rice, half the beer, and part of the pimientos to add at the end. Bring to a simmer. 10. Stir in the rice and simmer over medium-high heat for 10 minutes. 11. Remove the pot from direct heat, cover with a tight-fitting lid, and set in the preheated oven. Bake until the rice is tender but still moist, about 20 minutes. 12. Remove from the oven and immediately pour in the remaining beer. Garnish with the reserved pimientos.

El Pecado (Layered Coffee) Makes 1 When you first walk into Tinta y Café, it’s hard not to focus on how different it is from the typical ventanita. This is a family business run by Malu Statz and her cousin Carlos Santamarina. Here the sandwiches are well-pressed but made with freshly baked French baguettes, the empanadas are Argentinian, and Colombian sancocho is as likely a daily special as Cuban tamal en cazuela. Through drawing in people from both its historic little Havana neighborhood and upscale Brickell nearby, what hasn’t changed is the sound—the steady murmur of customers crowding the sidewalk that streams in through the open window and wraps itself around the lunch counter where regulars place their orders and make themselves heard over the ever-playing music and

steady din from the kitchen. Their el pecado, layered with condensed milk, espresso, steamed evaporated milk, and topped with the perfect milky foam, turns coffee into dessert—a forgivable sin.

2 tablespoons sweetened condensed milk 4 oz prepared Café Cubano or freshly brewed espresso ¼ cup evaporated milk ¼ cup whole milk 1. Fill the bottom of an 8-oz glass with condensed milk. 2. Slowly pour the espresso over the condensed milk to create a second layer. 3. Bring the evaporated milk to a simmer in a small saucepan, then pour onto the espresso layer. 4. Simmer the whole milk then whisk until frothy. 5. Top off the glass with the beaten whole milk.

Buñuelos de Anís con Almíbar (Anise Fritters with Syrup) Makes 12-14 buñuelos Rosa Rodríguez-Duarte learned to cook at an early age. While she was left at home alone, her father would push a small bench up to the counter so that she could reach anything she might need. Among her favorite recipes was this one for buñuelos, seasoned with whole anise seeds, which she still makes for her family on Nochebuena. Buñuelos:

½ lb yuca, peeled and cut into 1" chunks ¼ lb boniato, peeled and cut into 1" chunks ¼ lb malanga, peeled and cut into 1" chunks ¼ lb ñame, peeled and cut into 1" chunks 1 tablespoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon whole anise seeds ¼ lb calabaza, peeled and cut into 2" chunks 3 large eggs, well-beaten 3 to 4 cups unbleached all purpose flour 2 cups canola oil or grapeseed oil

Left: Arroz con Pollo Below: El Pecado

Syrup:

2 cups water 1 cup sugar 1 whole star anise 1 whole cinnamon stick 3" strip lime zest, white pith removed 1 to 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice 1. Place the yuca, boniato, malanga, ñame, salt, and anise seeds in a heavy pot with cold water to cover. 2. Bring to a boil then lower the heat to medium and simmer, covered, for 10 minutes. 3. Add the calabaza and simmer until all the vegetables are tender. Drain well. 4. Force the vegetables through a ricer or food mill onto a lightly floured surface while the vegetables are still warm. 5. Gather the puréed vegetables into a mound and form a well in the center. 6. Pour the beaten eggs into the well and

knead into the vegetables. 7. Sift the flour over the mixture and blend, a little bit at a time, until it forms a smooth dough that holds together. 8. Cut the dough into 14 pieces. 9. Roll each piece of dough into rope about a ½" thick and shape into a figure eight. 10. Heat the oil over medium-high heat in a 10" skillet to 375ºF. 11. Working in batches, fry the buñuelos until they are golden on each side, 3– 4 minutes. 12. Transfer to a plate lined with paper towels to drain.

The Cuban Table, $25, amazon.com

13. Prepare the syrup. Combine all the ingredients except for the lime juice in a saucepan and bring to a boil. 14. Simmer until it reaches a syruplike consistency, 15 – 20 minutes. 15. Off heat, add lime juice to taste. Serve with the fried buñuelos.

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fo lIag e . fri en ds. foo d.

m ix well

PHOTOGRAPHY by Nathan Michael | FOOD+RECIPES+FOOD STYLING by Sandra Holl of Floriole STYLING by Tereasa Surratt+Angela Finney Hoffman

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We may not know exactly why, but we all know that hot cider tastes better when spiked with the scents of fall (or maybe just spiked). Here in south-eastern Wisconsin, we call this mysterious phenomenon the “autumn effect.” Or, more simply, the “fall feeling.” It’s the same mysterious, intangible spirit that sparks a need for deep-wooded hikes, morning-misted rides in hand-hewn canoes, and firefly-lit poker games that extend into the late evening. It’s the secret ingredient in a recipe for the perfect fall weekend. Just add a few old friends, a spacious tree house spread, and mix well with the autumn air. And what do you know? The perfect fall weekend was just what we had planned. It all started with a simple idea to host an idyllic treetop dinner party, which of course grew quickly into a full-blown weekend retreat. We packed every moment to the brim with crafting, cooking, and old-fashioned camp fun, making every second of the season a lastingly fond fall memory. But of course, as with all parties hosted at Camp Wandawega, the most important element was the food. Especially when our friend (and brilliant pastry chef) Sandra Holl of Floriole Cafe got involved. And naturally, just about everything gets a little sweeter when pastry chefs are involved. The morning brought us the fuzzy, warm refreshment of hot cider and roasted almonds, fuelling our coordinated and communal chopping of fresh root vegetables for our supper, and the habitual spiking of the cider. And between occasional jaunts through the woods and spins around the lake, we spiked the cider some more. Before we knew it, the kitchen table became an impromptu craft bench, where garland leaf weaving co-mingled with pastry-shell creation and over-sampling of the delicious savory pudding. The kitchen table was where we dipped pinecones in brightly colored paint and filigreed the fall leaves until our fingers went numb. It was where we tinted wooden beads for our garlands, and rolled out dough for addictively delicious fig tarts. The table was where we gathered to talk, laugh, and test the chemistry of our seasonal community, where we all worked together to prepare our fall-friendly fare. It was our space away from the clamorous demands of the city, out of space and time, far from our jobs and responsibilities, where we could chill and enjoy each other’s company just as our granddads and grandmas did before the dawn of Skype, and 4G, and Candy Crush. Once we put away the flatware (not to mention all that food), we once again returned to the table. There, the combination of gentle conversation and sparkling starlight lulled everyone into a food coma, and gave us the perfect opportunity to start planning next year’s treetop soirée. And while it might have been the cider, no one could think of a single compelling reason to wait 12 months. So we refused to say goodbye, committed to adjourn, and marked our calendars for a repeat the very next weekend.

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Hot Buttered Cider Hot Sleeve

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Roasted Root Vegetables

Rich, smooth, and intensely chocolatey, pot de creme is a French specialty similar to pudding but so much better Chocolate Pot de Crème

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Savory Bread Pudding with Delicata Squash, Kale, & Sausage SWEETPAULMAG.COM | 109

We packed every moment to the brim with crafting, cooking, and old-fashioned camp fun, making every second of the season a lastingly fond fall memory

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HAND PAINTED LEAVES Use a white Sharpie paint pen for the fine line work. TIP: The flatter the surface, the smoother the drawing will be. Pre-press leaves if possible to minimize wrinkles.

GILDED BERRY BOWL Purchase a gold leaf kit from any craft store, and choose a smooth surface to guild. Seal with a spray laminate to keep from flaking, but be warned: your shiny new bowl is not to eat from. PHOTO LEAVES Handmade by Miranda van Dijk and inspired by the connection between nature and humankind. Shop her Hidden Memories collection at puuranders.nl. DIPPED PINECONES To pump up the drama, go for a full-color dip. Let hang from stem to air dry to touch. FOLiAGE GARLAND String leaves on a fishing line while still green to avoid breakage. Mix painted wooden beads, alternating by leaf type. HOT SLEEVE Easy as pie. Just snip the end off of a hand knit wool sportsman sock, wash on hot, and dry on high for a snug fit around hot libations.

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It was our space away from the clamorous demands of the city, out of space and time, far from our jobs and responsibilities, where we could chill and enjoy each other’s company just as our granddads and grandmas did before the dawn of Skype, and 4G, and CandyCrush

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Fig Tart

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Savory Bread Pudding with Delicata Squash, Kale, & Sausage Bread pudding is usually considered a dessert but it really shines as a main dish. Layers of sourdough, sausage, fall vegetables, and cheese soaked in rich custard bake together to make the perfect brunch dish or light dinner. Serves 4–6

1 small loaf rustic French bread, crust removed and cut into 2" cubes 1 delicata squash, halved, seeds removed, cut into half moons and roasted with olive oil, salt, & pepper 4 leaves kale, stems removed and cut into fine ribbons 2 oz cooked and crumbled spicy Italian sausage 1 cup sharp cheddar, grated 5 eggs 1 cup cream 1 cup milk 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon pepper pinch of nutmeg 2 teaspoons chopped thyme 1. Butter a 9x9” baking dish. 2. Scatter 1⁄3 of the bread cubes over the bottom of the pan.

3. Cover with half of the squash, kale, and sausage. 4. Sprinkle with 1⁄3 of the cheese. 5. Scatter 1⁄3 of bread cubes over the cheese, add the rest of the squash, kale, and sausage, and sprinkle with 1⁄3 of the cheese. 6. Cover with the remaining bread cubes and then sprinkle with the remaining cheese. 7. Combine the eggs, cream, milk, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and chopped thyme, and whisk thoroughly. 8. Pour this mixture over the prepared bread and veggies and let sit for 20 minutes or refrigerate up to 8 hours. 9. Preheat oven to 350°F 10. Bake in a oven until golden brown and the custard has set in the middle. This will take about 45–60 minutes.

6. Season with salt and pepper. 7. Spread out onto a rimmed baking sheet and roast until caramelized along the edges. This will take about 30–40 minutes. 8. Let cool slightly then toss with the chopped parsley and taste to adjust seasoning Fig Tart Fresh figs have a very short season in early fall. This tart celebrates the simple sweet perfection of autumn's favorite fruit baked in a classic tart with an almond custard. Serves 8

tart shell almond cream 2 t0 3 pints fresh figs, cut in halves and quarters Tart shell:

8 oz unsalted butter, softened 1 cup sugar ¼ teaspoon salt 2 eggs 3 cups all purpose flour

Roasted Root Vegetables Roasting the carrots and parsnips at a high temperature brings out their innate sweetness. Let them cook until the edges are charred and crispy. Serves 4

Almond custard:

1 tablespoon maple syrup 1 tablespoon butter 1 tablespoon olive oil 8 oz multi-colored carrots 8 oz parsnips large pinch of salt pepper, to taste 1 tablespoon chopped parsley

¾ cup sugar ¼ teaspoon salt 4 oz unsalted butter, softened 3 eggs 1 cup almond flour 2 tablespoons rum 2 tablespoons cornstarch ¼ cup unblanched sliced almonds

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F.

1. Cream together the butter, sugar, and salt until the color lightens.

2. Melt together the maple syrup, butter, and olive oil then, set aside. 3. Scrub off any dirt from the carrots—if they are multi-colored you will not want to peel them. If you only have conventional carrots, peel and cut them. 4. Peel and cut the parsnips. 5. Toss together the carrots, parsnips with melted butter, olive oil, and maple syrup.

2. Add eggs 1 at a time, letting each mix in completely before adding another. 3. Add flour and mix until homogenous. 4. Remove dough from the mixing bowl. 5. Divide in half. 6. Wrap each in plastic and form a disc (you will have enough dough to make 2 tarts, the second disc can be frozen for up to 3 months). 7. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour. 8. Preheat oven to 325°F. 9. Sprinkle your work surface with a little flour to prevent sticking. 10. Roll dough out into a large circle until about ¼” thick.

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11. Transfer into a removable bottom 9” tart tin. 12. Press dough into tin and remove excess dough. 13. Prick the bottom of the crust all over with a fork to allow any steam to escape while baking. 14. Chill for 30 minutes before baking for 20–30 minutes or until golden brown. 15. For custard, cream together the sugar, salt, and butter until very light in color 16. Add eggs 1 at a time, allowing each to fully incorporate before adding the next 17. Add the almond flour, rum, cornstarch, and sliced almonds and mix until homogenous. 18. Fill the tart shell about half full with the almond custard. 19. Preheat the oven to 350°F. 20. Use the back of a spoon or an offset spatula to spread it evenly to the edges. 21. Arrange the figs in the tart either in straight lines or concentric circles. I like to use both halves and quarters to provide a little visual interest. 22. Sprinkle lightly with sugar. 23. Bake the tart for 35–45 minutes or until the custard is set and the figs lightly charred around the edges. Let cool for at least 1 hour before unmolding and serving. Chocolate Pot de Crème Rich, smooth, and intensely chocolatey, Pot de Crème is a French specialty similar to pudding but so much better. Serves 4–6 depending on ramekin size

8 egg yolks ¾ cup sugar 1 cup whole milk 1 cup cream 4 oz dark chocolate ¼ teaspoon salt splash of Cointreau, framboise, or Frangelico 1. Put egg yolks into a bowl and set aside. 2. Combine sugar, milk, cream, chocolate, and salt in a small heavy-bottomed sauce pan. 3. Bring to a simmer over low heat, whisking until the chocolate has completely melted.

4. Remove from the heat. 5. Pour about ½ cup of the hot chocolate mixture into the egg yolks and stir vigorously. 6. Add the yolk-chocolate mixture back to the pot and whisk until combined. 7. Pass the mixture through a fine mesh strainer into a bowl. 8. Let the mixture cool completely in the refrigerator. 9. Preheat the oven to 325°F 10. Set 6 ramekins in a shallow pan 11. Fll them with the custard. 12. Fill the pan with warm water until the water reaches halfway to the top of the ramekins. 13. Bake until the custard jiggles just a tiny bit in the center (begin checking after 30 minutes). 14. Let cool slowly in the water bath. 15. Once they are just barely still warm, transfer to the refrigerator to completely chill. Slow Poached Cranberries

2 cups sugar 2 cups water slice of lemon 5 peppercorns 8 oz fresh cranberries

4. Remove from the heat and whip the mixture on high speed until stiff peaks form. Use immediately. To assemble final dessert 1. Top cooled Pot de Crème with meringue. 2. Use a small offset spatula to form peaks with the meringue. 3. Torch the meringue. 4. Garnish with the poached cranberries. Hot Buttered Cider Add butter to rum infused cider? It sounds crazy but the result is a smooth, easy to drink, après ski treat.

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened pinch of salt 4 tablespoons dark brown sugar 3 cups cider 2 cinnamon sticks 5 cloves 5 anise seeds lemon zest, 2" strip 1 cup dark rum 1. Mix together the butter, salt and sugar and set aside. 2. Bring cider, spices, and lemon zest to a simmer.

1. Bring sugar, water, lemon slice, and peppercorns to a boil in a small sauce pan.

3. Remove from heat and let steep 5–10 minutes.

2. Remove from heat.

5. Add rum to the mixture.

3. Add cranberries and put a lid on the pan. 4. Let sit for 30 minutes, covered.

6. Add 4–6 tablespoons of the butter-sugar mixture to the cider and whisk vigorously.

5. Remove the cover and let cool to room temperature.

Pour into mugs and serve with a thin slice of apple.

4. Strain.

6. Store the cranberries in the syrup. Swiss Meringue

3 large egg whites ¾ cup sugar pinch of salt 1. Add all ingredients to heatproof bowl. 2. Set over a pan of simmering water. 3. Stir until the sugar dissolves into the whites and the mixture is hot to the touch (around 160°F).

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Leaves THE WONDERS OF

CRAFTS+STYLING+PHOTOGRAPHY by Dietlind Wolf

Leaf Map

S W E E T P A U L' S DIETLIND WOLF G OT I NS P I RE D BY ALL THE BE AUTIFUL L E AV E S T H I S SEASON BRINGS. PU T O N YOUR W E L L I N GTO NS A N D G E T I N TO N AT U R E !

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Fall Tea After having enjoyed the berries from the raspberry and blackberry bunches, it’s time to use the leaves. Raspberry leaves are known to be antibacterial and great against vitamin deficiencies. Blackberry leaves are rich in tannins.

1. Collect the young leaves and sprout ends and dry them in the oven at 200°F for around 6 hours. 2. Keep them in a large dark container. 3. Use 2–3 leaves per cup. Pour boiling water over, and let sit 5–10 minutes. The tea can be sweetened with honey.

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Still Life Leaves comes in all shapes and forms and can make a beautiful still life. Here I mixed real leaves with vintage metal ones and also some old tools. Vintage metal leaves and tools can be found on Etsy and eBay. Crispy Leaves These are made of the same dough but with different liquids to make them different colors.

4½ oz buckwheat flour 4½ oz buckwheat flakes 2 oz sesame seeds 2 oz flax seeds 3½ sunflower seeds 1 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons blueberry juice 2 tablespoons cranberry juice 2 tablespoons+2 tablespoons water ½ teaspoon turmeric ½ teaspoon coriander 1. Mix all the ingredients in a food processor and divide into 4 equal parts. 2. Mix 1 part with 2 tablespoons blueberry juice,

then 1 with 2 tablespoons cranberry juice, 1 with 2 tablespoons water and ½ teaspoon turmeric, and finally 1 with 2 tablespoons water and ½ teaspoon coriander. 3. Mix well. 4. Spread the doughs on a baking mat and use leaf-shaped cookie cutters to cut out leaves. 5. Transfer gently to a baking tray covered with parchment paper. 6. Bake at 250°F for about 2–3 hours or until fully dried. Woodruff Pillow In early times, pillows were filled with dried woodruff and used in bed linens to give them a sweet smell. 1. Pick woodruff leaves and dry them at 200°F for about 6–8 hours, depending on the size. They need to be completely dry. 2. Make small pillows in linen and fill with woodruff. You can also add some lavender and sage for extra smell.

Still Life

3. Use the pillows in your underwear and linen drawers. Woodruff Pillow

Crispy Leaves

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Leaf Wreath Inspired by old charm bracelets. You will need:

metal wire ring thin metal wire leaves, real, fake, fabric, or whatever you can find

1. Form and bend freehand leaves out of thin wire into different shapes and forms. Wind these leaves around the wreath. 2. Use the same thin wire to fasten around the stalks of the leaves and then onto the wreath Pressed Leaves Collect the most beautiful, uncommonly colored or shaped leaves. I love to browse through antique botanical books, where leaves are taped on the pages— sometimes even folded. 1. Place the leaves in a large book and use other books to press down. 2. After they are dry you can tape or glue them into a beautiful book or use them for décor. 3. Sign the pages with names of the leaves or with the date and where you found it. This can be a botanical walk memory. Leaf Map This is inspired by antique maps. Use an oversized leaf and explore the lines on the surface. You will need:

large color photocopy of a leaf (take your leaf to a copy center and order as big as you want) 4 half-round wooden profile rods hot glue gun hook 1. Take your leaf photocopy and hot glue the half rods to each side on the top and bottom so it looks like an old map. 2. Hang with a hook.

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Leaf Wreath

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Cauliflower:

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Cumin Roasted Cauliflower with Sultanas

the lost vegetable

I feel like cauliflower is such an underused vegetable. It’s so tasty and, with a few tricks, can be transformed to the most amazing dishes

These are my favorites

Cauliflower & Spring Onion Fritters

FOOD+STYLING by Paul Lowe | PHOTOGRAPHY by Susanna Blåvarg

Cauliflower Mash

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Pasta with Brown Butter, Sage, & Cauliflower

Cauliflower Au Gratin

This was one of my favorite childhood dishes

It’s so easy to make Creamy Cauliflower Soup

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Roasted Cauliflower Salad Roasted Cauliflower Salad When you roast cauliflower it becomes sweet and tasty. Serves 4

1 yellow or white cauliflower head, in pieces ½ loaf, torn into pieces 2 bay leaves glug of olive oil salt & pepper, to taste 1 small bunch fresh parsley, washed and torn into pieces 4 oz goat cheese, crumbled 1½ cups good olives sherry vinegar 1. Preheat the oven to 375°F. 2. Place the cauliflower, bay leaf, and bread in a large roasting rack and drizzle with olive oil. 3. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. 4. Roast until the cauliflower is al dente and golden and the bread is golden brown. 5. Place in a large bowl and add parsley, cheese, and olives. 6. Sprinkle with some salt and pepper and drizzle with a little oil and some sherry vinegar. Cumin Roasted Cauliflower with Sultanas Cumin really gets the sweetness out of the cauliflower, and when you add the garlic and sultanas… wow. Serves 4

1 cauliflower head, in pieces 1 head of garlic, peeled 1 cup sultanas 1 teaspoon cumin seeds salt & pepper, to taste glug of olive oil

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1. Preheat the oven to 375°F. 2. Place the cauliflower, garlic, and sultanas in a large roasting rack and drizzle with olive oil.

1. Place the cauliflower in a large pot and steam it until very soft. 2. Place in a blender and add broth.

3. Sprinkle with cumin, salt, and pepper.

3. Process until smooth and season with salt and pepper.

4. Roast until the cauliflower is al dente and golden.

4. Place in a bowl and drizzle with some olive oil and chives.

Serve warm as a salad or a side dish to chicken or white fish. Pasta with Brown Butter, Sage, & Cauliflower The cauliflower acts as the meat in this pasta dish. Serves 4

Cauliflower Au Gratin This was a beloved dish from the ‘80s that kind of fell out of grace for a while. We are bringing it back, because this is good stuff.

1 small yellow or white cauliflower head, in pieces glug of olive oil salt & pepper, to taste 1 stick butter 20 to 25 sage leaves 1 package pasta, freshly cooked 1 cup grated Parmesan

2 tablespoons butter 4 tablespoons flour 2 cups warm milk salt & pepper, to taste 1 large cauliflower head, in larger pieces, steamed to al dente 2 cups grated Gruyère ½ cup grated Parmesan 6 slices pancetta, crispy chives, for serving

1. Preheat the oven to 375°F.

2. Place the cauliflower in a large roasting rack and drizzle with olive oil.

2. In a pan, melt the butter and stir in the flour.

3. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.

3. Stir for 2 minutes but make sure it does not get brown.

4. Roast until the cauliflower is al dente and golden. 5. Melt the butter in a pan and add the sage.

4. Add milk a little at a time and stir well so you don’t get any lumps. 5. Add grated Gruyère and Parmesan.

6. Use a wooden spoon and work the butter until it starts to brown. This will take just a few minutes.

6. Season with salt and pepper.

7. Remove from heat.

8. Place the steamed cauliflower in an ovenproof dish and pour the sauce on top.

8. In a large bowl, mix pasta, cauliflower, butter, sage, and Parmesan. Mix well and serve. Cauliflower Mash This is a great low-fat and low-calorie dish. It’s a great substitute for mashed potatoes. Serves 4

1 large cauliflower head, in pieces ¼ cup warm vegetable broth salt & pepper, to taste glug of olive oil chives, chopped

7. Give the sauce a good stir. If it feels too thick add some more milk.

9. Bake until golden. This will take about 10 minutes. Serve with pancetta and some chopped chives. Creamy Cauliflower Soup This was one of my favorite childhood dishes. It’s so easy to make. Serves 4

2 tablespoons olive oil 1 yellow onion, chopped 1 large potato, peeled and chopped

1 leek, only the white, chopped 1 large cauliflower head, chopped 5 cups vegetable or chicken stock 1 cup cream salt & pepper, to taste glug of olive oil 1. Heat oil in a large pot and sauté onion, potatoes, and leeks until the onion goes soft. 2. Add cauliflower and stock. 3. Bring to a boil and let soup simmer for 15 minutes, or until cauliflower is really soft. 4. Transfer to a blender and blend until smooth. 5. Pour back into pot, add cream, and simmer for another 5 minutes. Season and serve with some olive oil drizzle and black pepper on top. Cauliflower & Spring Onion Fritters These taste best when eaten directly out of the pan. Serves 4

½ head cauliflower, thinly sliced 4 spring onions, thinly sliced ¼ cup grated Parmesan 2 tablespoons flour pinch of baking powder salt & pepper, to taste vegetable oil, for frying tomato salsa, for serving 1. Place cauliflower, spring onions, Parmesan, flour, and baking powder in a large bowl. 2. Mix well and season with salt and pepper. 3. Heat up ½” of vegetable oil in a pan and fry tablespoon-sized batches of the mixture. Fry them about 2 minutes on each side, or until golden. 4. Drain by placing fritters on a plate covered in paper towel. Serve warm with salsa.

Harvest

feast under the willow tree

Pumpkin Candle Holders

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In early fall, we wanted to gather our friends for a small harvest feast under a big willow tree. We found these lovely French seed bags and old postcards with garden motiFs and decided to use them for invites and decoration CRAFT+STYLING by Lova Blåvarg+Susanna Blåvarg PHOTOGRAPHY by Susanna Blåvarg

Pl ate

Déco

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Invitation Cards

Pumpkin Candle Holders Pumpkins make lovely candleholders. All you need to do is make a hole with a thin knife and stick the candle in. Plate Décor Cut out butterfly wings from wrapping paper (or print them out from the internet) and then cut out people from vintage postcards. Glue them on a wooden stick and you have lovely decorations to put on plates or in bottles or glasses. WRAPPING PAPER Paper Source paper-source.com Invitation Cards To make beautiful invites, use postcards with garden motifs and self-adhesive colorful letters. VINTAGE POST CARDS Etsy etsy.com

cor ED Dé WING

LETTERS Sn@p Cardstock Stickers by Simple from Amazon amazon.com Winged Décor Cut out butterfly wings and glue to old postcards to make small garden fairies. If you cut along the body of the person with a craft knife, you can put the wings neatly behind the body and then glue on the backside. WRAPPING PAPER Paper Source paper-source.com VINTAGE POST CARDS Etsy etsy.com

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Cupcake Toppers Decorate with things you find in nature. These Carrot Cake Cupcakes have small toppers made out of toothpicks, birch leaves, and acorns. Wash the acorns before using.

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Place Cards Make place cards out of vintage seed bags. Just add the names with self-adhesive colorful letters and glue the bags on wooden sticks.

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Crown & Bracelet

Crown & Bracelet Make a crown or a bracelet for a young guest. For the crown, simply thread rowan berries on a wire and shape it to a crown. Decorate with buttons and golden thread. For the bracelet, sew rowan berries onto a thin ribbon. TIP: You can cook rowan berries to make a marmalade, but they’re unpleasant on the stomach if you eat them raw

GOODIE BAGS

Goodie Bags To make cool goodie bags, use vintage paper bags or fold bags out of brown paper. Paper grocery bags are nice to use. Cut out butterflies and insects, and then cut out the same shape in multiple layers of book paper. Mess them around a little, then use a needle and a thread to make a stitch to keep the layers together. Glue to the bags with hot glue. WRAPPING PAPER Paper Source paper-source.com

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FOOD+STYLING by Monica Bjerkerud Sjøli | PHOTOGRAPHY by Aina C.Hole

Preserving nature

This is the perfect time to place all of fall's wonderful ingredients in jars and bottles. Save a little sunshine for those cold and dark winter days

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Plums with Anise, Cardamom, & Rum

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Flatbread with Caraway Seeds

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Thyme Honey with Cinnamon

Flatbread with Caraway Seeds A great bread to serve with chutney and cheese. Try it with smoked salmon and cream cheese. Makes 1 large flat bread

11⁄3 cups warm milk ½ envelope dry yeast 2½ cups whole wheat flour 1¼ cup rye flour 1 teaspoon honey ½ teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon caraway seeds Maldon salt, to taste 1. Preaheat oven to 360°F.

milk and yeast and let it sit for 2 minutes. 3. Add flours, honey, salt, and caraway seeds, and mix well. 4. Roll out on a floured surface until it becomes a thin flatbread, and place on a baking tray covered with parchment paper. 5. Sprinkle with Maldon salt and bake for about 10 minutes or until stiff. 6. Cool on a wire rack, break up into pieces, and serve.

Thyme Honey with Cinnamon A great way to spice up your honey. Wonderful on toast, tea, or anything that needs something sweet. Makes 1 cup

1 cup plain honey 4 tablespoons chopped thyme 1 cinnamon stick 1. Place all the ingredients in a pot and let sit for 5 minutes on low heat. Don't let it boil.

A great way to spice up your honey

2. Cool and let run though a strainer. 3. Place in a jar.

2. In a baking bowl, mix

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Rhubarb & Madeira Chutney

Rhubarb & Madeira Chutney Rhubarb is great for jams and chutneys. It has an amazing tart taste and also a wonderful color. It’s great to mix with other berries and fruit. Makes about 3 cups

6 lbs rhubarb 2 red onions, finely chopped 1 ⁄3 cup water 1 cup white wine vinegar 1 cup madeira wine 1½ cups sugar 1 teaspoon ground cloves 1 teaspoon ground ginger

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1. Clean the rhubarb and cut it into pieces. 2. Place all the ingredients in a pot, bring it to a boil, and let simmer for about 30 minutes or until it gets thick. 3. Cool, jar, and keep in the fridge.

Lemon Filled Quail with Rhubarb & Madeira Chutney A real festive dish. Perfect for any cold fall evening when you need something special. Serves 4

4 quails, cleaned salt & pepper, to taste 1 tablespoon butter 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 lemon, quatered 1 large thyme sprig 4 large slices of prosciutto 1. Preheat oven to 400°F. 2. Rub the quail with salt and pepper. 3. Heat the butter and oil in

a pan and brown the quail on all sides. 4. Take them out and fill the cavities with lemon and thyme. Place a slice of prosciutto on each bird and tie together with kitchen twine. 5. Roast the birds in the oven for about 15 minutes. Serve with boiled artichokes and Rhubarb & Madeira Chutney.

Lemon Filled Quail with Rhubarb & Madeira Chutney

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Gooseberry Chutney Goosberry is such an amazing berry. It’s sweet and tart— perfect for chutney. Makes about 4 cups

soft, and drain.

½ lb finely chopped onion 3 lbs gooseberries, green or red 1 cup sultanas 2 cups sugar 1 tablespoon grated ginger 1 teaspoon mustards seeds 2 cups white wine vinegar

3. Cool, jar, and keep in the fridge.

1. Place the onion in a pot and cover with water. Simmer until

2. Place all the ingredients in a large pot and simmer for about 1 hour or until it thickens.

Open Rye Bread Sandwich with Flounder & Gooseberry Chutney A very Scandinavian way to serve a sandwich. The salty fish is a great combo with the sweet chutney. Serves 4

4 slices of rye bread butter arugula

8 small flounder fillets salt & pepper, to taste sour cream goosberry chutney 1. Toast the bread and butter it, place on plates, and top with arugula. 2. Fry the flounder fillets in butter for about 2 minutes on each side. Season with salt and pepper. 3. Place flounder on top of the sandwiches and add sour cream and chutney.

Sweet and tart— perfcet for chutney Open Rye Bread Sandwich with Flounder & Gooseberry Chutney

Gooseberry Chutney

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Apple & Vanilla Chutney

Apple & Vanilla Chutney This is the perfect chutney to serve with cheese. Especially good with any kind of blue cheese. Makes about 2 cups

3 tart apples seeds from 1 vanilla bean 1 ⁄3 cup dry white wine ¼ cup water 3 tablespoons sugar pinch of salt pinch of grated nutmeg 1. Peel and core the apples and cut them into small pieces. You can keep the peel on some

of the apples, it will make a more textured chutney. 2. Place them in a pot with vanilla, wine, water, and sugar. 3. Let the mixture simmer for about 30–35 minutes, or until you like the consistency. 4. Season with a pinch of salt and some freshly grated nutmeg. Cool and store in a tight-lidded jar in the fridge.

Plums with Anise, Cardamom, & Rum These plums are amazing. They take all the flavors from the rum and spices. Serve it with game or as a dessert with ice cream. Makes 1 large jar 1 ⁄3 cup water ¼ cup dark rum 6 cups sugar 1 vanilla bean, split in the middle 2 star anise 10 cardamom seeds, crushed plums, enough to fill a large jar

1. Place water, rum, sugar, vanilla, anise, and cardamom in a saucepan and bring to a boil. 2. Let it simmer on low heat until half has evaporated. 3. Make a cross in the skin of the plums and place them in boiling water for 30 seconds. Once cool, peel off the skin. 4. Place the plums in a large clean jar and pour the syrup over. 5. Put on a lid and place in the fridge. They’ll be ready to eat after a week.

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TING A E Text by Carey Jones

Photography by

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i a -R o m

Linda Pugliese

Left: Cinque Campi, organic winery Right: Parmigiano-Reggiano Dairy, Caseificio San Lucio

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In an age when Parmigiano-Reggiano is flFlown to every continent, when prosciutto di Parma has a global following (and a Twitter account), much of the important work is still done by hand… and by ear, nose, and horse bone

Cheese shelved to age, awaiting inspection at Parmigiano-Reggiano Dairy, Caseificio San Lucio, Reggio Emilia.

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Top left: Cheesemaker at Caseificio San Lucio prepares fresh cheese for the aging process Top right: Vanni Nizzoli, owner of Cinque Campi, preparing a tasting of lambrusco Bottom left: A tasting at Cinque Campi Bottom right: Tortelli d'erbette: a typical primo piatto of Parma. Pasta filled with cow's milk ricotta, herbs, spinach, Parmigiano-Reggiano and nutmeg, served in a sauce of butter and sage, topped with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

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Some in Italy worry about the old ways dying out —worry that today’'s younger generation doesn’t favor the years of training and dedication to a craft that these traditional foods require 148 | SWEETPAULMAG.COM FALL 2014

Left: Prosciutto, after the first salting at Ghirardi Onesto, a Proscuittoficio in Parma Right: A prosciutto master in one of the many drying rooms at Ghirardi Onesto

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Left: A chest of balsamic vinegar from the family of Alberto Ruozzi, the owner of Ristorante Badessa Right top: The view from Taverna del Castello Right bottom: Alberto Ruozzi, the owner of Ristorante Badessa, with his prosciutto, made in-house from the pigs of his family farm Right page: Prosciutto di Parma at Taverna del Castello, served with gnocco and Malvasia

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A pasta tasting at Ristorante Badessa: Caramelle Della Badessa filled with duck, Tagliatella con Battuto di Guanciale, a pig jowl ragu, and Tagliatella Ajeda, a recipe of Alberto's grandmother, served with a garlic cream sauce and 152walnuts. | SWEETPAULMAG.COM FALL 2014

Inside the prosciutto factory, just outside of Parma, digital displays monitor temperature and humidity. Massive steel elevators shuttle racks of aging prosciutto between Doors. And yet each ham’'s quality is assessed not by machine, but by horse bone. A thin needle of horse bone, to be exact. The porous material absorbs smell in a moment and sheds it just as quickly. An inspector prods the ham and brings the needle immediately to his nose—evaluating the distinct aroma. He smell-tests five points on each leg before deeming it fit (or unfit) to be labeled as prosciutto di Parma, under rigorous Protected Designation of Origin standards. He has trained for years for this position. So too has the man who salts each leg by hand, according to weight and feel—the first step in the aging process. So too has the man who slathers on sugna, a pork lard that keeps the exposed meat from drying too quickly. And at a Parmigiano-Reggiano factory a few miles away, aged cheese wheels are tested by ear—a sharp rap with the mallet results in a sound—the tenor indicates any defects hidden within. In an age when Parmigiano-Reggiano is flown to every continent, when prosciutto di Parma has a global following (and a Twitter account), much of the important work is still done by hand… and by ear, nose, and horse bone. In a country with such fierce regional loyalty as Italy, it can be tough to find consensus on anything—the finest wines, most beautiful landscapes, most impressive cathedrals. And yet it’s widely agreed that Emilia Romagna is the nation’s culinary heartland. In this region, even the city names are synonymous with eating well. Bologna. Parma. Modena. Prosciutto di Parma dates back thousands of years in the region, the salted hams gently dried by breezes off the Apennine

Mountains. (Today, prosciutto makers still open their windows when those winds are favorable.) Parmigiano-Reggiano has a similarly impressive history. And just as revered is balsamic vinegar from Modena, made by equally exacting standards. The scent of an acetaia is intoxicating—aged wood and grape must and eye-watering vinegar—as the balsamic ages in small barrels, some decades old or more, each type of wood imparting its own delicate flavor. In America, appreciation for local foods has recently undergone a real revival. But in Italy, it never went out of style. Emilia Romagna isn’t held up as one of Italy’s great wine regions, but on his family-run vineyard, Cinque Campi, Vanni Nizzoli makes compelling, sophisticated wines. He showcases indigenous vines—grapes that are little-celebrated, some all but forgotten in the 21st century. His Terbianc, a golden wine made from Trebbiano Modenese, comes from 120-year-old vines. The sparkling red Lambrusco is Emilia Romagna’s signature wine, and Nizzoli’s versions show remarkable character. The celebration of native grapes and biodynamic techniques is a growing trend in modern winemaking; but to Nizzoli, it’s simply the way that wine should be made, and how he’s always made it. Outside the town of Reggio Emilia, Ristorante Badessa occupies what was once a Parmigiano-Reggiano factory; what’s old is new again. Alberto Ruozzi and partner Luca Ferrari opened the restaurant three years ago, celebrating their own and their families’ devotion to food and wine. After talking us through the menu, Ruozzi brings out a leg of ham, eagerly detailing just how they’ve been curing it. Next, a Parmesan tasting, accompanied by a small wooden chest bearing vials of vinegar, all homemade—this one aged in cherry, this in juniper, this “the one my father started when my mother was pregnant with me.” We asked for a Lambrusco recommendation. “Would you like to taste the one I make?” Some in Italy worry about the old ways dying out—worry that today’s younger generation doesn’t favor the years of training and dedication to a craft that these traditional foods require. But at Ristorante Badessa, nothing seems further from the truth.

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Pantry confessions Favorite color?

Emerald green. Necessary luxury? Flowers, always. They make everyone feel happy. Guilty pleasure? Way too many to list. Just one? I love sour cream dip. Anytime, anywhere. I think I could IV it. Favorite song? Adore by Prince

Favorite flower? Big, juicy lilacs. Last purchase? My renovation. Don’t remind me. Hurts. Perfume/cologne? This is a funny one—GAP Dream always. I get asked about it every day. So 1992. Favorite restaurant? There is this place in Korçula, Croatia. I can’t remember the name. It’s on the sea and the chef sings Croatian opera as he grills your beautiful lobster in a building dating back to the 700s. It tasted like love.

We asked the stylish and mega-talented Genevieve Gorder about what inspires her, her favorite foods, and a few other things Where do you live? I live in Manhattan in a really old townhouse. What inspires you?

Everything from a moment, to a song, to a texture. But travel—travel feeds me the most. I like to go to faraway places where I’m humbled by culture. 154 | SWEETPAULMAG.COM FALL 2014

Cookbook you can’t live without? Mastering the Art of French Cooking by Julia Child. I grew up cooking from it with my dad. Ultimate vacation destination? Rajasthan, India. I need to feel the color there. Film idol? Audrey Tautou. Perfect meal?

King Crab legs dripping with lemon butter, a side of juststeamed artichoke hearts, and beautiful homemade bread. And of course a bottle of Sancerre.

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