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TITLE : INTERNSHIP REPORT INDUSTRY SPONSER : DUKE FASHION LTD LUDHIANA
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP REPORT Submitted in partial fulfillment of the industry internship of Fashion Design Department at Footwear design & development institute, Chhindwara (M.P) 480001 Student name : Swetank Prashar Faculty Guide : Mr. Pradeep Mandal (HOD)
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CERTIFICATE This is to certify that mr. Swetank prashar of fashion design department at footwear design & development , Chhindwara (MP) has been evaluated for his industry internship report titled “INTERNSHIP REPORT” and has fulfilled the requirements set by the institute and evaluated by jury , his work has been found satisfactory.
Mr. Pradeep Mandal HOD & SUBJECT FACULTY Signature
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Copyrights © 2021 by footwear design & development institute all rights reserved.No part of this document may be reproduced . stored in retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means , electronic , mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning, or otherwise in any form without the written permission of the copyright owners. Printed at : chhindwara (mp) India.
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Footwear Design & Development Institute, chhindwara Fashion Design Department
Internship Document -2021
Internship Document - 2021 “ Internship Report” (DUKE INDIA FASHION LTD) Duration 9 weeks (30-08-21 to 30-10-21)
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INDUSTRY NAME : DUKE INDIA FASHION LTD Duke Fashion (India) LTD GT Road west, near jalandhar byepass ludhiana ,punjab India - 141008 Call : 0161-5224176
Student Name : Swetank Prashar Faculty Guide : MR. Pradeep Mandal
Industry Mentor : miss vishakha gera Fashion Designer Industry Mentor : mr Sandeep sikka Head of design
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SYNOPSIS My internship under Duke fashion (india) limited was a great working experience as well big exposure to realm of the industry the report is an attempt to portrey the company it’s characteristics & learning about it’s work . the design language followed by the company was very much compatiable; it is the same we are thought in FDDI. The only thing was had in mind was to communicate in different ways and generate new, innovation and commercial ideas. Working in an industry is very different as we have to strike a balance between being creative and innovative while keeping in mind consumer choice and visual communicating to consumer and buyers . with proficient guidence of miss vishakha gera, we was able to gain lot more knowledge in industry.
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JURY EVALUATION SHEET
Internal Jury Members
Name
Company /organization
Signature
External Jury Members
Remarks
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TABLE OF CONTENT Acknowledgment
page -10
Abstract
page -11
Preface
page -12
-Chapter 1-
DUKE FASHION (INDIA) LTD
Page - 13 till 33
1.1company introduction
page : 14, 15
1.2 chairman’s note
page : 16
1.3 company profile
page : 17
1.4 financial report
page : 18
1.5 charges on assets - duke fashion (india) ltd
page : 19
1.6 company network
page :20
1.7 connected companies
page : 20
1.8 director of duke
page : 21
1.9 duke fashion (india) ltd workflow
page : 23
1.9 management hierarchy
page : 24
1.10 head office department
page : 25
1.11 design development
page : 26
1.12 group profile
page : 31
1.13 present status of duke fashion (india) ltd
page : 32
1.14 head of department of duke fashion (india) ltd
page : 33
- Chapter 2 -
page : 34
DUKE FASHION (INDIA) .LTD SPEACIALITY
2.1 mission statement
page : 34
2.2 quality concept
page : 34
2.3 fashion
page : 35
2.4 fashion forecasting 2.5 designing 2.6 color 10 | P a g e
2.7 sampling department
page : 36
2.8 accessories department
page : 37
2.9 pre- sale designing room process
page : 38,39
2.10 overview of duke fashion (india) .ltd
page : 40
-CHAPTER 3 -
page : 41
MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT
3.1Merchandising
page : 41
3.2 fabric merchandising
page : 42
3.3 sampling merchandising 3.4 sampling merchandising chart
page : 43,44
3.5 proto sample
page : 45
3.6 salesman sample 3.7 fit sample
page : 46
3.8 first of bulk sample 3.9 photoshoot sample 3.10 GPT (garment performance test )
page : 47
3.11 FTP (fabric performance test) 3.12 PRE (production sample ) 3.13 TOP ( top of production sample )
page : 48
3.14 shipment sample 3.15 production merchandising
- CHAPTER 4 -
ADVERTISEMENT DEPARTMENT
page : 49
4.1 Advertisement department of duke
page : 49
- CHAPTER 5 -
page : 50,51
DOCUMENTATION PROCESS
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- CHAPTER 6 -
PATTERN MAKING
page : 54-59
6.1 method of pattern making 6.1.1drafting 6.1.2 draping 6.1.3 flat pattern making 6.2 CAD ( computer aided design ) 6.3 classic version 6.4 working on cad
- CHAPTER 7 -
TESTING
page : 60
7.1 testing equipment's in duke 7.2 numbers of test follow 7.2.1 color fastness to actual laundering lab 7.2.2 skewing test 7.2.3 colorfastness to perspiration 7.2.4 colorfastness to water 7.2.5 colorfastness to cocking 7.2.6 colorfastness to non chlorine bleach 7.2.7 colorfastness to light 7.2.8 colorfastness to heat 7.2.9 bursting strength 7.2.10 pilling resistance test 7.2.11 flammability test.
-CHAPTER 8 8.1 production costing
COSTING
page : 68 page : 69
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-CHAPTER 9 -
FABRIC MANUFACTURING UNIT
page : 70
-CHAPTER 10 -
DYEING DEPARTMENT
page : 80 -92
- CHAPTER 11 -
FABRIC MANUFACTURING UNIT
page : 93 - 94
-CHAPTER 12 -
FABRIC INSPECTION
page : 95 - 101
-CHAPTER 13 -
STITCHING DEPARTMENT
-CHAPTER 14 -
STITCHING DEPARTMENT
- CHAPTER 15 -
MACHINES IN DUKE
- CHAPTER 16 -
EMBRIODERY
- CHAPTER 17 -
PROCEDURE
- CHAPTER 18 -
PACKAGING
page : 102 - 110
page : 111- 117
page : 118 - 120
page : 121- 110
page : 126 - 128
page : 129 - 133
FEEDBACK
page : 134
MY LEARNING
page : 135
MY REFERTENCES
page : 136
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I hereby acknowledge the great opportunity that was provided to me and all the elements that made contribution towards my understanding throughout this period. I would like to acknowledge mr. Pradeep mandal sir Director Footwear design & development institute , chindwara for giving me this wonderful oppertunity of industry internship programme. Special thanks to my faculty mentor Mr. Pradeep mandal sir footwear design & development institute chhindwara, who guide me with valuable feedback throughout my internship period and in the making of this documents. I would like to pay my gratitude to Mrs. Vishakha gera, my industry mentore and mr. Sandeep sikka sir Head of design and his team at Duke fashion india ltd. For guiding me throughout the internship period and proving assignment which enganced my learning about the industry at the various stages. I obliged to FDDI for giving me opportunity to work with as esteem organization as an academic part.
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ABSTRACT
The industry internship is an introduction to provide student an appreciation and working knowledge of an industry on their own. The idealization of it is to blend their classroom knowledge with the industry application using the tools they were academically equipped with the bachelor of fashion design is constructed of constant such as fashion illustration, visual merchandise, branding, graphic designing, fashion styling, fashion forecasting, marketing, design process, merchandising, cad, the exposure amends to this and make me learn and apply these theoretical process into a practical world. The void between the course of academic learning and it’s theoretical implementation is filled with the 9 weeks industry internship programme after the completion of VI semester . the student get a platform to explore the industry over their own terms and are able to understand the industry and it’s elements in practical manner which simplifies a lot of question mark. The process of learning in the industry and the documentation in the same is to provide a fusion and better understanding of the practical and theoretical learning from the academic curriculum. The industry internship exposure has now made me a better explorer with an insight of the work plan in different areas with it’s significance. The compilation of this project is done with a synthesis of practical methods as well as a theoretical approach, hand in hand, towards learning the elements of the industry. All possible endeavors of eliminating error have been tired and the project is made with an enlightened mind. There are laminations as the industry did not allow it’s intern to carry any company property for exhibition purpose. All possible efforts have been taken in order to eliminate errors from this document.
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PREFACE
This document is a concise report of the nine weeks industry internship , starting august 30 2021 ending october 30 2021. that I understand at duke fashion india ltd,based in ludhiyana , the objective of this internship is to ease student into the routine of a paper work environment as well as understand the functioning of the respective industries they work in. the documents talks about the company, my role as an intern and the projects worked on. It also speaks of the various learning experience, work ethics and how it evolved as a designer throughout these nine weeks.
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OVERVIEW OF MY INTERNSHIP The internship Project was undertaken by me at DUKE, GT Road west industrial Area near jalandhar bypass, However, in mere completion of my internship project I had also worked at the merchandising department of Duke at Ludhiana. At duke, my project was of 2 months, studying all the phases of Designing as well as merchandiser’s work. At duke, I learn’t sampling merchandising at the head office, in one week I learn t the full process of sampling and the significance and procedure of sales men sampling, during which I studied the P.D.M and learnt how to produce a garment according to the PDM taking in care the specifications. At duke I saw all the steps which are included in the sending of salesmen sample and what measures should be taken to produce such a sample which is as per the requirement of the buyer so that the order gets approved. Goodwill in the eyes of buyer is the aim they want to achieve at duke. In the next weeks I worked under the production merchandiser under whom I learn’t all the roles and responsibilities. At duke as soon as the order gets confirmed, the sample merchandiser at duke head department hands over the purchase order along with the production file to the production merchandiser at duke. where all the production takes place. From receiving the purchase order, getting the production file and approved sample from sample merchandiser, ordering the fabric and trims for production, getting the required sample like 1st of bulk, trims and accessories strike off, pre-production sample and add samples approval to putting the order in production and getting it dispatched in time well in time. At duke, I also learnt the various hindrances that can occur in the work of a merchandiser. In my last week, I took a visit at the dyeing unit of duke, where I saw all the processing of fabric, from knitting to washing and dyeing. At duke, the machinery used was highly technical and new. For movement the required trolleys were being used., and to send the goods from one sub unit to another was being done through mini trucks, mechanically driven trolleys etc. At duke unit the highly technical knitting machinery was also available from simple flat machine to power flat and circular machine, fully automatic and manual and also auto striper. At duke, the production floor is well equipped with different garment construction machines, e.g. SNLS, overlock, Flatlock and other special purpose machinery. The machines are of JUKI, SINGER. There are total 3 production halls at duke , and 2 production halls each at head office and building opposite to that. The work of brand is done in different production halls. The fusing machines are present within the production hall only which are used to fuse the moon patch, fuse the placket and top print the HT labels. The halls being very spacious and big, the checking area is also made within the hall in many of the halls where there is no division for the same. The garments are checked for stains, 4 holes and other defects in specific lights, in a company like duke. The finishing rooms are made separately because in the finishing hall the steam press is also to be done which creates a lot of humidity in the hall. 17 | P a g e
INTERNSHIP OBJECTIVE General internship information, industry knowledge and function skills related objectives .
2.1 internship objectives These are my industry related learning objectives.
To learn and get experience about industry. Acknowledge how industry work. To get feel of the actual working environment and to gain practical knowledge and skills. To expose myself to a particular job and a profession industry.
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Chapter 1 1.1 INTRODUCTION
Duke Fashions (India) Ltd., has been conferred with the president award;three national awards i.e. Excellent Quality ready made garments Outstanding Entrepreneurship, and Quality Garments; crowned with Indian Power Brand at the USA. The brand has got these awards for its innovation,product quality, most preferred apparel brand, and inspirational leadership who has shaped and continue to shape India’s destiny. The Company provides customers with a focused selection of high-quality fashion and fashion basic merchandise at the compelling value in an exciting store environment. Beginning with the first in Ludhiana in 1966, Duke continues to connect with customers online and across the brand’s more than 4000 MBOs and 400 EBOs nationwide. Moreover, the products are also exclusively placed at big chain stores and on online shopping portals. Known for standardized fits, superior quality, a wide range and 'fashion-right' styles in its segment, Duke has been conferred with the president award; three national awards, Excellent Quality Readymade Garments, Outstanding Entrepreneurship, and Quality Garments; crowned with Indian Power Brand at the USA and many more. The brand has got these awards for its innovation, product quality, a most preferred apparel brand, and inspirational leadership who has shaped and continue to shape India’s hosiery industry.” Beginning with the first in Ludhiana in 1966, the brand has continues to connect with customers online, big chain stores and across the brand’s more than 4000 MBOs and 400 EBOs nationwide.Company's authorized capital stands at Rs 200.0 lakhs and has 74.875% paid-up capital which is Rs 149.75 lakhs. Duke Fashions (india) Limited last annual general meet (AGM) happened on 30 Sep, 2017. The company last updated its financials on 31 Mar, 2017 as per Ministry of Corporate Affairs (MCA). Duke Fashions (india) Limited is majorly in Manufacturing (Textiles) business from last 31 years and currently, company operations are active. Current board members & directors are KOMAL KUMAR JAIN, KUNTAL RAJ JAIN, KANCHAN JAIN, ASHU KAPOOR and DHEERAJ BAGGA . Company is registered in Chandigarh (Punjab) Registrar Office. Duke Fashions (india) Limited registered address is NEAR JALANDHAR BYE PASSG T ROAD WEST LUDHIANA PUNJAB PB 141008 IN.
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Fig:1
Fig: 2
1.2 DUKE FASHION (INDIA) LTD DETAILS CIN
U18101PB1990PLC010599
Date of Incorporation
01 Aug, 1990
Status
Active
Company Category
Company limited by Shares
Company Sub-category
Non-govt company
Company Class
Public
Business Activity
Manufacturing (Textiles)
Authorized Capital
200.0 lakhs
Paid-up Capital
149.75 lakhs
Paid-up Capital %
74.875
Registrar Office City
Chandigarh
Registered State
Punjab
Registration Number
10599
Registration Date
01 Aug, 1990
Listing Status
Unlisted
AGM last held on
30 Sep, 2017
Balance Sheet last updated on
31 Mar, 2017
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CHAIRMAN’S NOTE
“Duke fashion (india) limited is more than a business - it’s a family” To me the appareal from duke is one of the most beautiful things to add in your wardrobe, we strive to provide a special touch of design and craftmanship with our readymade garments, When you bring home a product from duke you bring a family love. Komal Kumar Jain ( Director of duke )
Kuntal Raj Jain (Director of duke)
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1.3 COMPANY PROFILE
Duke Fashions (India) Limited is an unlisted public company incorporated on 01 August, 1990. It is classified as a public limited company and is located in Punjab, Punjab. It's authorized share capital is INR 2.00 cr and the total paid-up capital is INR 1.50 cr.
Fig: 3
Duke Fashions (India) Limited's operating revenues range is INR 100 cr - 500 cr for the financial year ending on 31 March, 2020. It's EBITDA has decreased by 0.82 % over the previous year. At the same time, it's book networth has increased by 16.76 %.
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The current status of Duke Fashions (India) Limited is - Active. The last reported AGM (Annual General Meeting) of Duke Fashions (India) Limited, per our records, was held on 31 December, 2020. Also, as per our records, its last balance sheet was prepared for the period ending on 31 March, 2020. Duke Fashions (India) Limited has five directors - Komal Kumar Jain, Kuntal Raj Jain, and others . The Corporate Identification Number (CIN) of Duke Fashions (India) Limited is U18101PB1990PLC010599. The registered office of Duke Fashions (India) Limited is at NEAR JALANDHAR BYE PASSG T ROAD WEST, LUDHIANA, PUNJAB, Pun
1.4 FINANCIAL REPORT - DUKE FASHIONS (INDIA) LIMITED Here is a summary of financial information of DUKE FASHIONS (INDIA) LIMITED for the financial year ending on 31 March, 2020.
cr
Revenue / turnover of DUKE FASHIONS (INDIA) LIMITED is INR 100 cr - 500
Net worth of the company has increased by 16.76 % EBITDA of the company has decreased by -0.82 % Total assets of the company has increased by 15.81 % Liabilities of the company has increased by 12.56 % For a detailed balancesheet
Operating Revenue
INR 100 cr - 500 cr
EBITDA
-0.82 %
Networth
16.76 %
Debt/Equity Ratio
0.48
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Return on Equity
14.67 %
Total Assets
15.81 %
Fixed Assets
-3.34 %
Current Assets
20.84 %
Current Liabilities
12.56 %
Trade Receivables
2.38 %
Trade Payables
36.28 %
Current Ratio
2.24
1.5 CHARGES ON ASSETS - DUKE FASHIONS (INDIA) LIMITED
CHARGE ID
DATE OF CREATION/ MODIFICATION
MODIFIED AMOUNT CHARGE HOLDER
100061848
02 July, 2021
YES
10.00 cr
YES BANK LIMITED
100383041
29 August, 2020
NO
2.15 cr
State Bank of India
100366825
27 August, 2020
NO
30.00 cr
HDFC BANK LIMITED
100233245
12 January, 2019
NO
10.00 cr
YES BANK LIMITED
100108103
22 March, 2017
NO
2.00 cr
YES BANK LIMITED
100061813
26 October, 2016
NO
5.00 cr
YES BANK LIMITED
90168463
18 October, 2016
YES
23.00 cr
State Bank of India
90167461
26 February, 2016
YES
7.03 cr
State Bank of India
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CHARGE ID
DATE OF CREATION/ MODIFICATION
MODIFIED AMOUNT CHARGE HOLDER
10114678
12 July, 2008
NO
9.50 cr
PUNJAB NATIONAL BANK
1.6 COMPANY NETWORK - DUKE FASHIONS (INDIA) LIMITED
Fig : 04
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1.7 CONNECTED COMPANIES NUMBER OF COMMON DIRECTOR
STATE
DUKE FABRICS (INDIA) LIMITED
3
Punjab
NEVA GARMENTS LIMITED
1
Punjab
NEVA CLOTHING CO PRIVATE LIMITED
1
Punjab
NAME
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1.8 DIRECTORS - DUKE FASHIONS (INDIA) LIMITED The company has 5 directors and no reported key management personnel. The longest serving director currently on board is Komal Kumar Jain who was appointed on 19 June, 1993. Komal Kumar Jain has been on the board for more than 28 years. The most recently appointed directors are Dheeraj Bagga and Ashu Kapoor, who were appointed on 16 March, 2015. Komal Kumar Jain has the largest number of other directorships with a seat at a total of 4 companies. In total, the company is connected to 3 other companies through its directors. 19 June, 1993
02 September, 2002 KUNTAL RAJ JAIN Director
16 March, 2015 DHEERAJ BAGGA Director
KOMAL KUMAR JAIN Director
28 December, 2004 KANCHAN JAIN Director
16 March, 2015 ASHU KAPOOR Director
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DUKE FASHION (INDIA) LTD WORK FLOW Market assessment Designing Sample approval Costing Order booking Pattern making Fabric production Fabric inspection Garment manufacturing Checking & finishing Dispatch Feedback
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1.9 MANAGEMENT HIEARCHY The following flow chart shows the delegation of authority in the ludhiyana Duke infrastructure and how the flow of command and information works over here. The Head of Department (HOD) for the entire department is different. According the the work experience the employees are delegated in the respective designations. The management trainees are the new recruited staffs who are under Supervision for a period of minimum12 month to let them get aware of the work and the people of the organization. CMD (chairman director)
&
management)
CEO DIRECTOR HOD MANAGER ASSISTANT MANAGER SENIOR EXECUTIVE EXECUTIVE MANAGMENT TRAINER HELPER
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1.10 HEAD OFFICE DEPARTMENTS
Accounts department Admin department Research & development department ( R&D) Human resource department Packaging department Design department Printing department Embroidery department Sales department Marketing department Cashier Payroll department It department Duke showroom Mapping department Retail department Sketching department
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1.11 DESIGN & DEVELOPMENT
The design is a solution of every problems and you need to find it. Every company needs a design department which develops the product of a brand. The design and development department of duke fashion India ltd was divided into three sections, all three have a name first FLAG -F second FLAG -G third FLAG -E first one was work for duke designing, second one was used for designing duke franchise name stardust, and third one was also used for duke. The HOD of the first designing team was name sandeep sikka , he used to handle all the work and under his ms. Vishakha gera manages the team. There were around 7 people on this team. I am completing my two months internship under first designing team name FLAG -F, The working experience in this department was wonderful and the team helped me a lot.
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1.12 GROUP PROFILE
The brand duke has been voted as India's no.1 T-shirt selling brand as per ORG-MARG survey , apart from “duke” the following brands are also very popular in the market.
Neva
Neva quilt
Quiltex
Lavado
Body warm
Grovey, george, adams
Creyons
Royal lagos
Silke edge
X=cite
Prime bodies
The duke group is vertically integerated encompassing activities of fabric knitting yarn dyeing, fabric dyeing, mercerizing finishing compacting garment printing, embroidery, and making with latest imported machines. The group is having more than 3000 employees which are highly qualified, experienced and professional. The companies/ concern in the “duke” group are :
Duke fabric pvt ltd.
Duke fashion (india) ltd
Duke nepal pvt. Ltd
Deekey knitwear
Glaze garments Neva garments lt
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1.13 PRESENT STATUS OF DUKE FASHION (INDIA) LTD Name : duke Chairman : mr. Kuntal kumar jain managing director : mr. Kuntal jain Registered office : g.t. road (west), near jalandhar bypass, ludhiyana. Head office : duke fashion (india) ltd. Registered on : 1996 Product brand name : duke ` Turn over of duke fashion : 25 crores. Turnover of the groups : 125 crores No of department :17 Capacity of product : 75000pcs P.M Yarn procured : 25 tonnes P.M
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1.14 HEAD OF DEPARTMENTOF DUKE FASHION (INDIA) LTD
D.G.M Opertaions : mr. Raman lal jain
Designing : mr. Sandeep sikka sir
Production : mr. Mahinder joshi
Purchase : mr. Rajeev jain
Accounts : mr. Navneet gupta
Marketing : mr. Balkar singh / mr. Ravinder baweja
Stores : mr. Vijay chaudhery
Quality control : mr> vishal kapoor
MIS : mr.dk. Satpathey
Personnel : mr. Francis victor
Dispatch : mr. Rajesh
Embroidery : mr. Anish jain
P.A to chairman : mr. Ram kumar
Knitting : mr. Ritesh jain
M.R.under iso : mr. Vishal kapoor
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CHAPTER : 2 2. DUKE FASHIONS (INDIA) LTD SPECIALITY In the fashion arena, particularly T-shirt “DUKE” has become household name in indian market amongst all ages , who now prefer casual wear against formal. The moving spirit behind duke fashion india L.T.D is sh. Komal kumar jain under whose able guidence “duke” has become india’s no.1 -shirt brand. Setting new trends in fashion and achieving high target without diluting gie_hard quality concept “duke” caters to most demanding requirements in knitwear market through an arrey of strategically positioned brands. The company has become a star in the t-shirt industry , in view of its enduring quality drived products, reflecting taste of people high fashion trends and of course high customers acceptance endorsing “duke” as no.1 brand.
2.1MISSION STATEMENT : The mission is to maintain a leadership in t-shirt industry by providing best quality Tshirt at competitive prices and other chosen products through leveraging strengths and competencies the company will achieve it by developing techno savvy environment towards customer satisfaction and creating a culture of self-striving with focus on total employees involvement. As a responsible member of society they believe in rich culture and ethos and strives for providing value added products and services, thus comtributing to society’s growth and development.
2.2QUALITY CONCEPT Quality means te degree of excellence that an item possesses, being the best money can buy; meeting a specification craftsmanship ; no more that 1% defective lot. It can also be defined as a combination of the characteristics or properties of a product, which make that product usable. The quality of a product may be described in terms of whether the product is fit for use or not. Fitness for use should be judge from the consumer’s point of view and not from either the manufacturer’s or seller perspective. 36 | P a g e
2.3FASHION Fashion means many things to many people. In economic terms ,it can be defined as consumer appeptance. When the prevailing and establised style in dress or personal decoration is accepted and adopted during a particular time or period , it becomes fashion, fashion depends upon current trends. Fashion is not static. There is also movement and movement has a direction. This direction in which fashion moves is called fashion trends. The change from season to season may be slight but they generally have a direction. Much of the success of the fashion designer depends upon the ability to predict the incoming and outgoing trends in fashion.
2.4FASHION FORECASTING It is the prediction of fashion for the the aim and regular collection, recording, understanding and reporting of reporting of information about present or possible buyers in markets, designing plans and marketing methods.
2.5 DESIGNING Design is an assembly or organization of parts, forms, color,fabrics,line etc. The arrangement of these constitutes a design. When the job of assembly or organization is carried out with same kind of imagination and intent in mind, design gets completed putting together all organizational structures mentioned above.thus design can be defined as thought of mind.
2.6 COLOR Colors play an important role in designing, color in its simplest form is a pigment that gives an object,an appearance other than its form. Color wheels comprised of primary, secondary, and tertiary colors. Colors has three categories:
HUE : it refers to the pure state of color.it is the natural color without mixing or
modifying, the unmixed or unmodified property of colors hue. Hue is the name by which we identify the color.
VALUE : it is the relative darkness or lightness of a color.the different colors will
have a different tonal value. The gradual adding of black color produces ‘shades’. the gradual adding of white color produces ‘tints’.
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INTENSITY : chrome or saturation , which indicates the purity of color, is known as the intensity.
I
Img : 05
2.7SAMPLING DEPARTMENT Order sheet received from the buyer is thoroughly checked by the merchandiser and forward to the sampling department.Order sheet send to the sampling section contain details like Client name
season
Style
stitch
Trims
type of fabric
Quality
delivery date etc.
The first sample which is made is called proto sample, done first for style and look approval. The buyer sends the samples back to the expert house with contents attached. The sample acts as a guide to the production department. Sales man sample are the sample made of a particular style and size produced by the department considering all the the specification of the buyer. This is produced basically for the advertising of the production and getting feedback from the target 38 | P a g e
+customer. Once the buyer approves, the size set is obtained. Set is the sample he sample made for every size in the order placed confirming to the measurement with tolerance included. The exact procedure has to be followed specified by the buyer during production. The sampling department prior to the production produces pre-production samples in case the buyer asks for it. The department produces the garment as per the specifications of the buyer after the approval got from the buyer for pre production sample. One sample each is send to cutting and sewing department for reference. 2.8 ACCESSORIES DEPARTMENT This is a separate section and it stores trims and stationery requirement of the company. The material required for house keeping is also stocked in this stores. The accessory department gets feedback from the merchandiser, it sources the raw materials and helps getting them on time , finally when the merchandiser approves the trims keeping into accounts the costing , buyers requirements,the accessory department gives the bulk order and store them. The department maintains a quality report, daily issue register, stationery stock report, issue invoice, purchase order, quantity invoice and storage report. Accessories include different types of label like duke,royal legos, creyons, duke lowers, prime bodies etc.
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2.9 PRE-SALE DESIGN ROOM PROCESS
DESIGN
MARKETING MARKET RESEARCH
INDICATIONS OF TRENDS
EXCHANGE OF IDEAS FIRST COLLECTION MATERIAL SELECTION
CORE DESIGN
MATERIAL ORDER
APPROVAL OF CORE DESIGN
RECEIPT OF MATERIAL
PRODUCE CORE SAMPLE TRIAL COST
APPROVAL OF CORE SAMPLE
CUSTOMER CONTACT
EXTENSION OF CORE
AGENT/ REPS
PRODUCE COLLECTION
FASHION SHOWS
FINAL COSTING
REVIEW OF COLLECTION
MARKETING SALES
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CUSTOMERS: DUKE customers are prominent Apparel manufacturers located in India.
BUSINESS PHILOSOPHY: It maintains a relationship based business approach with associates, customers, merchants, employees, stakeholders, governmental authorities and other agencies.
WEAVING AND PROCESSING CAPACITY:
Name of the Unit
Quantity per Annum
duke Fabrics – Weaving Unit, Ludhiana (Pb)
60 Million Meters (510 looms)
Kara-bara – weaving & knitting - Units, Ludhiana (Pb)
58.4 Million Meters
Screen Printing Set-up - prints of Woven and 21.6 million meters Denim Products Calendaring Machine (for Special Finishes)
12 million meters
Soft Flow Dyeing Machine- Rayon and Modal 2 million meters Products
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2.10 OVERVIEW OF DUKE FASHION (INDIA) LTD
DISPATCH
weaving&knitting department
PACKING DYEING DEPARTMENT PRIMARY AND SECONDARY CHECKING EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT
PRINTING DEPARTMENT
STITCHTING DEPARTMENT CUTTING DEPARTMENT
FABRIC MERCHANDISER
COSTING
CAD
SAMPLE MERCHANDISER
PRODUCTION MERCHANDISER
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CHAPTER : 3 3.MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT
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3.1 MERCHANDISING This is a specific activity, which concerns itself with product development, overall production strategy and the delivery of merchandise to customers. Merchandising not only has to adjust rapidly to market variations, but more importantly to anticipate these changes. During a boom 43 | P a g e
season there could be a sudden influx of orders, and the merchandiser would have to allocate production priorities and attempt to wholly or partially satisfy customers who are crying out for merchandise.
3.2 FABRIC MERCHANDISING Fabric merchandiser:
Works for the sourcing of fabric and trims. Follow-up of the fabric, negotiation on cost and lead time with vendors. This is a much specified work in industry, but in a bigger organization it is done by a different person. Fabric Merchandiser normally coordinates with sourcing team to get all the raw material delivery dates and with Industrial Engineering to get the accurate value of the garments. Main function – Fabric Merchandiser Calculates the yarn percentage and yarn amount in a Fabric, given by a sampling merchandiser so the while developing the fabric, the production unit does not have a shortage of yarn.
3.3 SAMPLING MERCHANDISING Sampling merchandiser:
Takes care of sampling only; Buyer provides all the details. According to specification. Sampling merchandiser makes sure that sample will be sent to the Buyer on time with the correct requirements. The role of sampling merchandiser is to follow up on samples as well as quality of samples. Buyer will provide a small piece of fabric. According to that fabric piece, the merchandiser has to develop similar fabric samples with the same feel, same yarn count, same coarse etc in order to get it approved by the buyer. Once the sample is approved, buyer will set some combos as per the sample. The merchandiser has to develop the combos and get it approved from the buyer. Once the combos are approved, bulk production of fabric starts.
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3.4. The following chart shows the process sampling merchandising: Development sheet (in which the buyer sends a design like a striper for making it so that he could make sure whether the industry could or could not knit the same type of design)
From available yarn we manufacture fabric and send its swatch to the buyer as proto fabric for quality fabric (if this swatch approved by the buyer)
Then buyer sends us tech pack and lap dip request for the colour shade Pattern making for proto sample making
Proto sample making from the close available fabric and trims and also we submit lap dip to the buyer
Proto comments we received from the buyer and file it for further fulfilment of the buyer requirement
Sale man sample request from buyer with revise tech pack
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we send fabric manufacturing request to the Dhandhari’s merchant of actual colour for sale man sample
ready sale man sample then send it to the buyer by courier with attached detailing card (3 pieces has to be made in actual colour)
Sale man sample comments received from buyer
In between PO had sent by the buyer and costing is also approved by the buyer
Then sampling department handover its final sample file to the production department
Order conformation
Fit sample (medium size) [In between FPT & GPT should be approved]
First of bulk
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Sealer sample (for the construction of the garment)
Pre-production sample
Top of production sample (TOP)
3.5.PROTO SAMPLE:
It is developed at a very initial stage and normally order is confirmed to the factory based on Proto sample only. Normally, buyer sends a proto sample request to 2-3 factories. The factory that sends the sample with the optimum quality and price will get the confirmation of the order by the buyer. Proto sample is prepared in similar fabric if actual fabric is not available. Substitute trims may also be used. As this is the first time a sample is given to the factory, the buyer provides necessary information along with the proto request i.e. Specification Sheet (Tech Pack), BOM, Paper Patterns (optional), sample of trims, sample yardage(sent by buyer or asked to be developed), details of print or embroidery, if any. A proto request is fulfilled within 7-10 days by manufacturer. Factory needs to submit at least 3-4 samples. If the first proto sample is not approved, factory needs to submit a second sample for approval. Once the proto sample is approved, fit samples are produced.
3.6.SALESMAN SAMPLE:
The main purpose of the Salesman Sample is to collect the order from the retailer. Actual accessory, actual fabric is used or sample yardage needs to be used. 47 | P a g e
Very important stage of sampling as the sales of the buyer depends on these samples. The sample presentation, look and the feel of the fabric are important. The quality of the sample should be up to the mark of the buyer; hence the merchandiser should be aware and make sure that the product development team is well aware about the sample quality parameters.
3.7.FIT SAMPLE:
Fit sample is made and sent to conform the fir of the garment on live models or on dummy and for approval of construction details. At this stage of sampling, buyer makes sure that factory understands thoroughly the construction and quality details and standards. The sample sent mostly in medium and large sizes. The fabric used for fit sample is the actual fabric which is going to be used for bulk production or sample yardage is used.
3.8.FIRST OF BULK(FOB):
The FOB sample is the first of the bulk production. It is made in the production department in order to view the stitching quality of the operators. The fabric used for FOB sample is the actual fabric.
3.9.PHOTO SHOOT SAMPLE:
In order to promote the new style in the market, the buyer asks for the Ad or photo shoot sample.
Buyer uses this photo for marketing purpose either on catalogue or various media like print, TV or websites to see the response of the customer.
Sample sizes are sent out as per buyer’s specification.
Normally 1-2 samples (or Qty. as specified by buyer) of each size need to be sent to the buyer.
If sizes are more in number then buyer may ask to skip some sizes, called jump size set sample.
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3.10.GPT (GARMENT PERFORMANCE TEST): The main purpose of GPT is to perform the physical and chemical testing on garment to ensure the performance of the garment. The tests done on garments are – Shrinkage, Colour Fastness, and Seam Performance etc. Garments for GPT sample can be done along with size sample. Normally GPT sample is sent to third party inspection and results are sent to both factory and buyer. If same style has 3-4 different colours then only one colour sample is tested completely and other colour samples are tested only with colour way test i.e. only colour fastness tests are conducted.
3.11.FPT (FABRIC PERFORMANCE TEST):
FPT is made and submitted to the buyer for assessment of feel and handle of fabric after washing. Hence either at Size Set stage or PP stage, FPT sample is sent to the buyer for approval and carry forward of washing program. If sample is not approved, factory needs to submit second sample for approval. After feel assessment the buyer may suggest the changes in washing program.
3.12.PRE-PRODUCTION SAMPLE:
PP sample is considered to be a contract between the buyer and the factory. It has to be made in original fabric and trims. Washing, embroidery and printing should match to actual. PP sample is the standard for production and bulk production garments should be identical to PP sample. The factory can start production of bulk garment only after the approval of preproduction sample. PP sample is sent in only and one size, 1-2 in number or as specified by the buyer.
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3.13.TOP (TOP OF PRODUCTION) SAMPLE: The TOP is sent to the buyer as soon as the initial pieces come out of sewing line with the suggestion of the QA department. In TOP sample buyer tries to evaluate the actual manufacturing of the style. Buyer checks whether bulk production is as per submitted sample or not. TOP is also checked for packaging.
3.14.SHIPMENT SAMPLE:
Few buyers may ask for shipment samples which factory needs to pull from the actual shipment. The main purpose is to assure buyer about actual shipment dispatch.
3.15.PRODUCTION MERCHANDISING Production Merchandiser: Production merchandiser plays an important role in the garment industry. They normally represent the garment industry to the buyer. The role of production merchandiser is very crucial to the success of any export order. A summary of their role
Communication with buyer Coordination of production Follow-up of different approvals Product development Costing Sourcing and purchasing of raw material Collecting the prepared BOM, T&A and Trim card from the buyer Shipment scheduling Communication with the buyer’s Forwarder
Then along with the production team, the production merchandiser will do the planning of production by considering the efficiency and absenteeism of the operator. Production merchandiser also needs to coordinate with cutting and packaging departments in order to send the accurate merchandise on time to the buyer 50 | P a g e
CHAPTER : 4
4. ADVERTISEMENT DEPARTMENT Fashion advertising is a branch within the advertising field that focuses on creating promotions for the fashion industry.
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5.DOCUMENTATION 5.1.DOCUMENTATION PROCESS
Order receive from buyer through mail
Buyer sent an order excel (send to production merchandisers)
Entering the month wise total order, its cost and ship cancel in the SAP (Assortment sheet display)
Contract sheet in which we enter the price of no. of units
Rapidex response (RR conformation) (maintain the record of monthly conformation of units, color and design of the product)
Go to GAP portal website in which we select SMEE We can check the working in progress(WIP) in SMEE 1. Booking conformation (like any change in PO) 2. Production tracking (in which time and action of PP, FPT, GPT, FIT, TOP, cutting update status are available) &
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For BRFS and Old Navy there online Trade card sheet in which we can find all the purchase & For C&A PLM links buyer send us through mail from which we can download PO’s
We get buyer wise update for every shipment status
We download WIP (Work in progress analysis) reports and sent it to the buying house
Shipment will be send when buyer sent final PO i.e. DCPO
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CHAPTER : 6 6.PATTERN MAKING Pattern making is an art. It is the art of manipulating and shaping a flat piece of fabric to conform to one or more curves of the human figure . Pattern making is a bridge function between design and production. A sketch can be turned into a garment via a pattern which interprets the design in the form of the garment components (Cooklin). A pattern is flat while the body is not. The body has height, width and depth. With in this roughly cylindrical framework there are a series of secondary curves and bulges, which are of concern to the pattern maker. Darts are the basis of all pattern making. They convert the flat piece of cloth into a three dimensional form, which fits the bulges of the body. A pattern maker typically makes a pattern from a flat sketch with measurements or a two dimensional fashion illustration. The basic pattern is the very foundation upon which pattern making, fit and design are based. The basic pattern is the starting point for flat pattern designing. It is a simple pattern that fits the body with just enough ease for movement and comfort (Shoben and Ward).
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Pattern making & cutting master in duke
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6.1.Methods of Pattern Making Pattern making involves three methods
Drafting Draping Flat paper pattern making 6.1.1.Drafting: It involves measurements derived from sizing systems or accurate measurements taken on a person, dress or body form. Measurements for chest, waist, hip and so on, and ease allowances are marked on paper and construction lines are drawn to complete the pattern. Drafting is used to create basic, foundation or design patterns. 6.1.2.Draping: It involves the draping of a two dimensional piece of fabric around a form, conforming to its shape, creating a three-dimensional fabric pattern. This muslin is transferred to paper to be used as a final pattern (Armstrong). Ease allowances for movement are added to make the garment comfortable to wear. Advantage of draping is that the designer can see the overall design effect of the finished garment on the body form before the garment piece is cut and sewn. However, it is more expensive and time consuming than flat pattern making. 6.1.3.Flat Pattern Making: It involves the development of a fitted basic pattern with comfort ease to fit a person or body form. A sloper is the starting point for flat pattern designing. It is a simple pattern that fits the body with just enough ease for movement and comfort (Shoben and Ward). Five basic pattern pieces are used for womens clothing. They include a snug-fitting bodice front and bodice back with darts and a basic neckline, a sleeve and a fitted skirt front and back with darts. However, as fashion changes frequently womens styles fluctuate frequently. These basic slopers are then manipulated to create fashions. A basic sloper has no seam allowances, which facilitates its manipulations to various styles. It has no design interest, only construction lines are marked on it. It is necessary that the basic structure of a sloper should be such that adjustments can be introduced easily. For a good pattern making, accurate measurements are of utmost importance.
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6.2COMPUTER AIDED DESIGN (CAD) The pattern making software is called a CAD system. The abbreviation of CAD is computer-aided design. Nowadays the CAD system is a must-have software in garment export house, medium, and large size garment business. A CAD system is used for pattern making as well as for marker making, and pattern grading. It is a degital medium of pattern making.
All the patterns for sampling as well as mass production are made in the CAD department . First all the patterns are made in medium size and then graded to different sizes as required by the buyer. In the CAD section, there are mainly three versions of CAD. Classic Version (old) Professional version (new) Fully automated system
Pattern in CAD are made by same standard method of blocking. Variation in fabric does not affect the pattern in CAD, only if the fabric has shrinkage problem then the pattern has to be manipulated accordingly in CAD.
Img : 10
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6.3.CLASSIC VERSION The pattern in the classic version is made through main steps: Digitizing Board: To transform 3D hard copy pattern to soft copy. All the end points of the pattern both back and front are scanned on the board. Plotter: Plotter is used to draw the pattern on the mount board or paper. It is ink based.
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Pattern cutter machine: Pattern cutter machine is used to cut the pattern on the mount board through laser.
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In above figure there is a table which is used for laying the patterns and also there is capturing camera which is used for capturing the pattern so that we can redesign in the CAD. 6.4.WORKING IN CAD System management:
soft of the copy pattern is checked current file (the file already saved in computer) digitizer (the file transformed using the digitizing board) (grading) plotting of the pattern Pattern designing system: Here the pattern is modified by adding necessary notch points, smoothening the curves etc.
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-Marker making:
marker is made in one-way direction for tubular knitted fabric the pattern can be made only in one-way direction while in open width fabric the pattern can be made in both way
process Usually the primary pattern is made for standard ‘M’ Size.
Tech Pack Checking (tolerance checking for size ‘M’)
Grading of the pattern is done
Once the grading is done, the size sets are made. Each sizes 2 pieces.
Checking of the size sets internally
Ready for bulk production
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CHAPTER : 7 7.TESTING
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The primary purpose of textile testing and analysis is to assess textile product performance and to use test results to make predictions about product performance. Product performance must be considered in conjunction with end use; therefore, tests are performed with the ultimate end use in mind.
7.1.THE FOLLOWING TESTING EQUIPMENTS PRESENT IN DUKE
Crockmeter
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This equipment is used for checking the rubbing fastness.
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Launder-Ometer This machine is used for checking the washing fastness of both yarn and fabric in which we mix 200 ml of soap solution and run the machine for 45 min at 60˚C temp.
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Jug perspiration This method is use for color bleeding in the fabric in which we add 1gm sodium hydrogen phosphate, 25 mgm of monohydrochloride, 10 gm of common salt, 1 ml of lactic acid and 1 L of water and give half an hour hold then 6 hour oven hold at 35˚C then check the bleeding of the fabric color. Initially testing is done in DUKE testing lab but acc. to buyer nominated labs they have to follow these testing lab verifications also written below: 1. Intertek India Private Limited 2. SGS Testing Services 3. FITI Testing & Research
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7.2.NUMBER OF TESTS FOLLOW
Colour fastness to actual laundering Skewing test Colour fastness to perspiration Colour fastness to water Colour fastness to crocking Colour fastness to non-chlorine bleach Colour fastness to light Colour fastness to heat Bursting strength Pilling resistance test Flammability test
And many more acc. to buyer’s demand.
7.2.1.COLOR FASTNESS TO ACTUAL LAUNDERING LAB
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Colorfastness is the property of a dye or print that enables it to retain its depth and shade through the wear life of a product. The purpose of this test method is to evaluate the degreeof color loss after repeated home launderings and staining of other items in a washload.
7.2.2.SKEWING TEST “Skewness” is a defect occurs in a fabric. It is a condition resulting when filling yarns or knitted courses are angularly displaced from a line perpendicular to the edge or side of the fabric due to uneven distribution of tension.
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7.2.3.COLORFASTNESS TO PERCIPIRATION
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The color fastness to perspiration (acid and alkaline) refers to the ability not to fade and not to stain when the dyed fabric is perspired, and it is one of the main color fastness testing items of textiles 63 | P a g e
7.2.4.COLORFASTNESS TO WATER
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Color fastness to water test. Color fastness to water determines the resistance of textile colors to immersion in water. You might think this test sounds like the washing test. But color fastness to water testing is specifically used to measure the migration of color to another fabric when wet and in close contact.
7.2.5.COLORFASTNESS TO CROCKING
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Colorfastness to crocking is designed to determine the amount of color transferred from the surface of colored textile materials to other surfaces by 64 | P a g e
rubbing. It is applicable to textiles made from all fibers in the form of yarn or fabric whether dyed, printed or otherwise colored.
7.2.6.COLORFASTNESS TO NON- CLORINE BLEACH
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The appropriate protocol for testing colorfastness to chlorine bleach is AATCC 61-5A and 188. This procedure approximates colorfastness results after five wash/dry cycles in the presence of detergent and chlorine bleach.
7.2.7.COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT
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Light fastness, or color fastness to light, is the resistance of printed or pigmented materials to fading or color change due to exposure to sunlight or an artificial light source. ... Print exposed to high levels of sunlight such as on posters and compost sacks require a high degree of light fastness.
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7.2.8.COLORFASTNESS TO HEAT
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Heat color fastness refers to the ability to keep original color of dyed fabrics under conditions of different heat. Heat color fastness test can be done in dry, tide, wet environment, which depends on the use of textiles. The machine using in heat color fastness test is Ironing Sublimation Color Fastness Tester.
7.2.9.BRUSTING STRENGTH
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The capacity of a material (such as a paper or textile) or object (such as a metal pipe) to maintain in continuity when subjected to pressure broadly : the pressure often expressed in pounds per square inch required to rupture such a material or object under rigidly controlled conditions.
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7.2.10.PILLING RESISTANCE TEST
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Pilling Test of Fabric · Due to wear and abrasion. Due to rubbing action of fabric with particular parts of garments and body. 1: No Change 2: Significant Change 3: Moderate Change 4: Slight change 7.2.11.FLAMMABILITY TEST
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a standard flame 5/8 of an inch long is lowered onto the fabric specimen, which is from a garment or production fabric, at a 45 angle for one second. This configuration is used to approximate the position of fabric during wearing
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CHAPTER : 8 8.COSTING RAW FABRIC COSTING: Grey Yarn Cost
Dye yarn cost (Fabric and yarn)
Knitting Cost
Raising Cost
Compaction Cost
Fabric Wash
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8.1.PRODUCTION COSTING: Raw Fabric Cost + Accessory Cost and Packaging Material Cost + Fabrication Charge/ Making Cost + Selling Cost Manufacturing Cost
+ Overhead
Final Cost
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CHAPTER : 9
9. FABRIC MANUFACTURING UNIT 9.1.KNITTING Knitting is a method by which yarn is manipulated to create a textile or fabric, often used in many types of garments. Knitting creates multiple loops of yarn, called stitches, in a line or tube. Knitting has multiple active stitches on the needle at one time. Knitted fabric consists of a number of consecutive rows of intermeshing of loops. As each row progresses, a newly created loop is pulled through one or more loops from the prior row, placed on the gaining needle, and the loops from the prior row are then pulled off the other needle. Knitting may be done by hand or by using a machine. There are two major varieties of knitting: weft knitting and warp knitting. In the more common weft knitting. There are three types of looping of the yarn: KNIT LOOP The knit stitch is the basic stitch. It is also called the plain stitch. Knit stitch is formed when the needle carries out a complete stroke, reaching the maximum height on the looping plane.
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TUCK LOOP A tuck stitch is formed when a knitting needle holds its old loop and then receives a new yarn. Two loops then collect in the needle hook. The previously formed knitted loop is called the held loop and the loop which joins it is a tuck loop.
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MISS LOOP A miss stitch is created when one or more knitting needles are deactivated and do not move into position to accept the yarn. The yarn merely passes by and no stitch is formed. The float will lie freely on the reverse side of the held loop, which is the technical back, and in the case of rib and interlock structures it will be inside the fabric.
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In textile industry there are many machines available for knitting different structures of fabric.
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During sampling, and production the yarn is ordered for knitting so as to knit the fabric which is required, in the required quantity. The fabric is always ordered 5% extra then the originally required. The knitting is of fabric is done in the sister concern of Nahar itself, which is situated at Dhandhari, Ludhiana. About the Kara - Bara unit: At Kara - Bara unit both circular as well as flat machines are present and the variations in them are also there.
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In circular machines the variations present are single jersey machine, Double jersey machine, Lycra rib machine, auto striper single jersey machine, auto striper double jersey machine, fully jacquard machine. Circular Single jersey machine: It is a basic mechanical machine which has 120 feeders and could knit a fabric of 30 diameter and24 gauge. Except for single jersey other fabrics that could be made are- pique, honeycomb, terry, and fleece. For making fleece fabric, poly cotton is used at the back and for making terry cotton issued at the back.
Except for this mechanical single jersey machine the other single jersey machine is also present which is of old mechanism. It has 90 feeders, the diameter of the fabric it produces is less and its output is also less as compared to that fabric which is made in the fully atomized new type of circular machine. Double jersey machine: There is loop formation on both sides that is knitting is done on both front as well as back. There are different machines present in the same category which makes fabric of Diameter 24’’,16’’, 20’’ and 34’’. It has 60 feeders, gauge 18. The different fabrics that are made in this machine are shepherd rib, French rib, interlock, and waffle. At one time it can give a production of up to 20kgs. For making double jersey, slub yarn is used in the front and normal yarn is used at the back. Lycra Rib machine: It is also known as all needle knit machine, because all the needles knit in this machine. it is used in making 1*1 rib or 2*2 rib etc. In this machine both cylinder and dial work at one point. Pique machine: In this the pique fabric is made. at Nahar I saw that in this machine the striper was being made. This machine is same as single jersey. Auto striper machine: Single jersey machine type: It has 48 feeders always. It makes the fabric of diameter 30´. 73 | P a g e
It can make maximum 5 coloured striper at one time. We can make any kind of striper on this machine. The cones which contain the yarn are placed in such a
manner on the pole in which the striper is to be made. In auto striper the cutting line is already there.
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Double jersey machine: It is available in diameter 20’’, 24’’and 18’’. Cylinder could make 2 shades and dial 1. Fully automatic jacquard machine: In this machine the mercerized yarn is used only. It is also known as power flat machine. We can make fabric for garment body, tape, rib, cuff, collar etc. There are 30 power flat machine at Dhandhari unit and there are 20 mechanical flat machine.
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Also there are 30-35 power flat machines present at Pearl unit in one hall. At Dhandhari unit there are 100 circular machines installed.
Flat knitting machine:
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This machine is specially used for Knitting the collar fabric
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CALCULATION OF YARN REQUIREMENT: There is a particular method for ordering the yarn in case of striper of any type, engineered, feeder or auto. This calculation is the work of merchandiser himself, the requirement of fabric is placed separately for sampling and production merchandise in DUKE .Once the sampling is placed separately the order is final and production file is handled over, which contains the PDM, Purchase Orders, a swatch of the different combinations to be made along with the flat knit and the copy samples sent as well as for the reference of the production merchandiser, depend upon the repeat. 75 | P a g e
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COMPOSITION: Total: 4 cm, White: 3 cm 75% Grey: 0.6 cm 10% Blue: 0.4 cm 10% Now if garment weight is 540gms, then the yarn according to 580gms is ordered, 5% is kept extra and also 5% is ordered for the cuffs and the placket and other parts. So, order for one unit would be as follows: White: 75% of 540 Blue: 15% of 540 Grey: 10% of 540 And their quantity for one unit would be multiplied by the number of units in total. The gauge of the fabric depends upon the thickness of the yarn and also the GSM, the quantity to be produced and after the production merchandiser gets the production file he carries forward the work with calculation of trims and accessories and fabric requirement. The fabric requirement is calculated with the following method, First measure the GSM of the fabric e.g. the GSM is 28.8.
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Now, I we take 1m length 1m breadth of that fabric, then the fabric we will get is 28.8*10= 288gms fabric. We can take out one garment piece from this 288gms, now if we want to make 100 pieces, we require 28800gms of fabric, i.e. 28.8 kg fabric. 28.8kg = 100 pieces 1kg= 3 pieces We have to include the wastage also, and the wastage would be 4% approximately, 30 kg fabric would be required but in 1 kg we can take out 3 pieces so, in 30kgs we will take out 90 pieces so in total, we require 33kgs of fabric including the wastage. While measuring the diameter, we will exclude the raw sides. After the fabric requirement is calculated as discussed above, the same requirement is placed at the knitting unit of DUKE THAT KNOWN AS KARA- BARA. i.e. sister concern and a swatch of the fabric is sent along so as to have the actual idea of which fabric is required. At KARA-BARAthere are flat knit as well as circular knit machines that are fully automatic however, there are some semi-automatic knit machines as well. The dying also takes place there and so does the printing, after knitting when the fabric is ready to be cut, it is sent to the DUKE PRODUCTION UNIT by truck with a challan which describes the following things: Lot and brand, fabric type, no. of rolls, weight, shade. Offloading Is done manually through the truck and is moved in with the help of trolley and bins.
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TYPES OF KNITTED FABRIC There are so many types of fabric made in DUKE TYPES OF FABRIC KNITTED Machines: S/ jersey m/c (for track machine) :- single jersey, pique,honey comb, acra single jersey,lacra pique,drop needle,small structure, moc rib, popline, feeder, stripe etc. Rib machines: Berigated rib, structural rib, pointal rib, flat back rib, rib based waffales. Interlock machine: Interlocks,droop needles,interlock pique,structures pique.
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SAMPLES OF DIFFERENT TYPES OF KNITTED FABRIC
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CHAPTER : 10 10.DYEING DEPARTMENT DYEING A process of coloring fibres, yarns, or fabrics with either natural or synthetic dyes. Dyeing can be done at any stage of the manufacturing of textile- fibre, yarn, fabric or a finished textile product including garments and apparels. The property of color fastness depends upon two factors- selection of proper dye according to the textile material to be dyed and selection of the method for dyeing the fibre, yarn or fabric Substances that add color to textiles. They are incorporated into the fibre by chemical reaction, absorption, or dispersion. Dyes differ in their resistance to sunlight, perspiration, washing, gas, alkalies, and other agents; their affinity for different fibers; their reaction to cleaning agents and methods; and their solubility and method of application. There are so many types of dyeing but in DUKE only REACTIVE AND DISPERSE DYES are used for the fabric or yarn. REACTIVE DYE Reactive dye is a dye that can react directly with the fabric. That means that a chemical reaction happens between the dye and the molecules of the fabric, effectively making the dye a part of the fabric. Reactive dyes have good fastness properties owing to the bonding that occurs during dyeing. Reactive dyes are most commonly used in dyeing of cellulose like cotton or flax, but also wool is dyeable with reactive dyes. Solubility:
Easily Soluble in Water. Good Affinity for Water. Polar Nature.
Fastness properties:
Washing: Good Rubbing: Moderate Lightening: Good Chemical: Stable Perspiration: Good
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Colour range:
Gamete Range of Colors. Brighter Shades. All Colors are Achievable.
DISPERSE DYE: Disperse dyes are the only water insoluble dyes that dye polyester and acetate fibres. Disperse dye molecules are the smallest dye molecules among all dyes. A disperse dye molecule is based on an azobenzene or anthraquinone molecule with nitro, amine, hydroxyl, etc. groups attached to it. Solubility:
Non-Soluble in Aqueous. Non-Polar Nature.
Color fastness:
Washing: Good Lightening: Good Crocking: Good Gas Fume Fade: Average
Color range:
Wide Range of Colors. Bright and Lighter Shades. Major Colors: Pale Yellow and Blue.
Basic flowchart of dyeing textile materials is like the following: Grey textile materials (fibre, yarn or fabric) Singeing Desizing Scouring
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Bleaching Mercerizing Dyeing Finishing
Now I like to discuss shortly about the different terms of the flow chart. Here, grey textile materials are fibre, yarn or fabric which is also consider as the raw materials of dyeing. Singeing is the first steps of pre-treatment. This process by which loose, hairy and projecting fibres are removed is called singeing. Desizing is the second steps of pre-treatment. By this process gummy materials are removed. Also size materials removed by this process. Scouring is the third steps of pre-treatment. This process is performed for removing impurities of the textile materials. Bleaching is another important step which is used to reduce natural color of the raw materials. Dyeing performance depends upon it much more. Mercerizing is the special type of treatment. It perform if buyer wants. Its is an additional treatment. It increases the strength and lusture of the material. Dyeing is the main process where a white material decorated by different colors. We have to know about the depth of shade of the materials. Finishing is the last treatment of wet processing. Different types of properties can be added to the materials by different finishing effects.
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DYEING OF KNITTED FABRIC AND YARNS Manufacturing of knit goods is cheap and 100% knit good items are very comfortable which increase the demand of knitted underwear and outerwear garments. As a result knitting, knit dyeing and finishing industries are growing very rapidly.
In DUKE two types of dyeing machines is used for dyeing the fabric: 1. WINCH DYEING MACHINE 2. RING SOFT FLOW MACHINE
DYEING PROCESS OF FABRIC Knit dyeing is a technique of dyeing the knitted fabrics. The dyeing of knitted fabrics occurs in the exhaust method or in batch-wise process. Generally all type of single jersey, double jersey and their derivatives are dyed by the following process.
FABRIC DYEING MACHINES Dyeing through winch dyeing machine
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hence several rolls are tied together so they are dyed in tubular form. Forming a long chain, the number of rolls to the chain being dependent on the weight of the fabric. When dyeing of tubular fabric is carried out in winches, air bubbles are collected inside the tube form immediately below the jockey roll. The bubble is continuously pushed back along the rope by the jockey roll. The dyeing machine employed consist of a tub provided with a revolving winch on top. The winch is made up of wood. The chains of cloth are passed over the winch and circulated through the dye liquor in the tub below. Usually from eight to twelve chains are run in one machine side-by-side. As the goods come up from the liquor they are passed from a set of small squeeze rollers and then run on the revolving winch. The squeeze rollers and the winch should be so set and run at such relative speeds that there is as little tension on the cloth as possible, as the tension while the cloth is running in the dyeing operation tends to stretch the goods out of shape and also materially reduce their elasticity. The speed of the squeezing rollers is somewhat high than that of the winch. The winch is fluted so that less surface area of the fabric touches the winch and hence low tension is created on the fabric. The machine employed for the dyeing process is similar in every respect to that employed for wetting-out or scouring process. Unless a number of lots to be dyed, the goods may be rinsed off in the machine used for dyeing, by simply running off the dye liquor and refilling with fresh water.
Dyeing through Soft Flow Dyeing Machine
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In the soft flow dyeing machine water is used for keeping the fabric in circulation. The conceptional difference of this equipment from a conventional jets that operates with a hydraulic system is that the fabric rope is kept circulating during the whole processing cycle (right from loading to unloading). There is no stopping of liquor or fabric circulation for usual drain and fill steps. The principle working behind the technique is very unique. There is a system for fresh water to enter the vessel via a heat exchanger to a special interchange zone. At the same time the contaminated liquor is allowed channel out through a drain without any sort of contact with the fabric or for that matter the new bath in the machine. Key Features of Soft flow Dyeing Machine:
Significant savings in processing time.
Savings in water that is around 50%.
Excellent separation of different streams results in optimum heat recovery and a distinct possibility of further use or a dedicated treatment.
Principle of Soft Flow Dyeing Machine: Textile material can be dyed using batch, continuous or semi continuous process. Batch processes are the most common method used to dye textile materials. There are three general types of batch dyeing machines: 1. In which fabric is circulated 2. In which dye bath is circulated 3. In which both the bath and material is circulated. Before the fabric dyeing washing is also we do in the same machine in which we different types of wash we do to the fabric acc. to buyers demand given below:
Normal wash is the wash in the we normally wash the fabric by water and saop. Silicon wash is done for the softness, elastic handle and dimensional stability which helps the fabric to be cut or sewn more easily. Bio wash we do for the pilling resistance. Moisture wicking wash in which we add wetting agent which helps the fabric to absorb the perspiration.
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How to dye the fabric?
The first process is stabbering the cloth in the machine in which we add water and saop simply for washing the fabric and also add anti chemical for removing the oil. After washing we maintain the temp 40-45˚C and and we add dye with wetting agent, salt and castic soda. After 2 hours of dyeing with raising temp 60˚C we check the dyed sample for the approval of shade. If approved, we give wash to the dyed fabric only by water. Then washing it with soap at 90˚C. Then at 80-85˚C we chemical surf wash for softening the fabric and also maintaining the neutrality of the fabric.
OTHER MACHINES FOR FINISHING THE FABRIC Hydro machine
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This machine is used to squeeze the water from the fabric. Tube tex-dryer
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This is 3 chamber machine which is used for drying the fabric at 150˚C. 86 | P a g e
Corino machine
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This machine is used for slitting the circular tube fabric. Stantor machine
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This machine is 5 chamber in which we control the GSM, width wise strength and final drying occur at 180˚C of the fabric and we final finished fabric.
Open width compactor steam
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This machine is used for striper fabrics in which the alignment of the stripes can be controlled i.e. for straightning the stripes and also we can control the shrinkage of the fabric.
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Pitching machine
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This machine is used for brushing the fabric for increasing the lusture of the fabric. Raising machine This machine is used for making the fleece fabric in which there is iron brushes which raises the fibres of the fabric. Continue washing machine
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This machine is used for washing the fabric in which all these process occur given below:
Firstly, we wet the fabric by adding wetting agent. Then washing the fabric with soap. Squeezing the fabric. Softening the fabric.
YARN DYEING Yarn dyeing is slightly difference from woven or knit dyeing. Dyed yarns are used for making stripe knit or woven fabrics or solid dyed yarn fabric or in sweater manufacturing. Yarns are dyed in package form or hank form by yarn dyeing process. Yarn dyeing machine
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Following are the temp. at which we process dyeing of different types of yarns: Cotton -100˚C (reactive dyes) Polyester - 130˚C (disperse dyes) Acrylic - 100˚C (basic dyes) Wool - 100˚C (acid dyes) Nylon - 100˚C (acid/disperse dyes) Viscose + acetate rayon - regenerated cellulosic fibre (reactive dyes) YARN DYEING PROCESS OF YARNS Greige winding (in which we wind the yarns on the iron cones through machines) Material loading in carriers Washing normally with water Add dyes acc. to the type of yarns and maintain the respective temp. Color addition Salt addition Alkali addition caustic ash Na2co3 (weak alkali), caustic soda NaoH (strong alkali) Raise temp 60˚C Run machine for 30 – 90 min acc. to the depth of shade
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To neutralize the yarns we add with acetic acid or acid buffer Soaping Drain Shade check Final yarn Drying the yarn called hydro-extraction by radio frequency dryer Dyed winding in we again wind the yarn on the plastic or cardboard cone
Packing and dispatch The different machines for dyeing and finishing in duke is HIGH TEMPERATURE SUITABLE MACHINE YARN DRYING MACHINE
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This machine is for drying the yarn after its dying.
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DYED WINDING MACHINE
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This machine is used for winding the dyed yarn from iron cone to plastic or paper cone. CHAPTER : 11 GARMENT MANUFACTURING UNIT FABRIC STORAGE ROOM: Audit Procedures: All the incoming fabric including main fabric and trim fabric must be temporarily quarantined to prevent their use before any required inspection and testing is carried out. All the fabric received from mill has been inspected. Below are the fabric inspection procedures:
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FABRIC PACKNING INSPECTION 1) All the rolls received from the mill are in good condition. 2) Rolls shall be wrapped or enclosed in plastic wrapping or bags. 3) Each roll shall be attached with a roll sticker with necessary information. PREPARATION OF COLOUR CONTINUITY AND CARD 1) Colour continuity card is being prepared to check the shade variation among the rolls received in one lot. It helps cutting department to arrange the similar shade rolls while laying to avoid shade variation within a garment. 2) Cutting off the swatches from each rolls of every lot should be mounted on the colour continuity cards and fill in appropriate details. The total yardage of each dye is then recorded. 3) GSM of each roll has to be monitored and mentioned on every swatch.
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CHECKNIG OF SHRINKAGE FROM EACH LOT 1) Fabric shrinkage testing is being carried out for every lot. 2) Recording of 1st wash, 2nd wash and 3rd wash shrinkage is been done to determine relaxation for fabric rolls before cutting. 3) Based on the shrinkage reports, the shrinkage margin is being added in the pattern in case of Non-Washed garment styles.
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LOT APPROVAL: Swatches from every lot are being cut and get approved from the buyer QC.
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FABRIC INSPECTION All the Lots received should be kept on Quarantine Area before the inspection is being done. 10% of each lot quantity received should be inspected and recorded.
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Fabric should be checked from below parameters:
1) Shade: Fabric hades should be cross checked from each lot against customer’s approval and get signed off. 2) Hand feel: Fabric hand feel needs to be cross checked from each lost against customer’s requirement. 3) Requirement GSM: GSM of each roll should be checked against customer’s tech pack details. 4) Width: Width of the roll should be checked and should be recorded to unable width batching before issuing rolls to the cutting Department. 5) Shrinkage: Shrinkage should be accepted (+/-) 5% or as per the customer’s requirement. 6) Quality: Physical checking and inspection is being done by “J C penny 4 Point System”. Based on the above result the factory technical stuff and Q.A manager takes decisions on the acceptance or rejection of the Lots. Procedure: 10% of the total quantity has to be selected from each lot for inspection. Face side of the fabric should always be inspected. Each roll has to be checked for centre to salvage colour variation, and start to end of the rolls variation. Each roll shade should be checked in the light box by under customer’s recommended light source. All the passes rolls should be wrapped in the poly bags and marked width GREEN sticker and to be stamp with “PASS”.
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Rejected rolls must be marked with RED sticker and stored in predefined “REJECT” area. 100% checking of the rolls to be carried out in case of fabric lot is rejected after 1sr and 2nd inspections.
From 100% check, mark each approved roll with GREEN tape and stamp with “PASS”. 79
FINISHED FABRIC RECEIVED
COLOUR AND LAYOUT CHECK
10% FABRIC ROLLS ISPECTION BASED ON 4 POINT SYSTEMS
GSM CHECK
REPEAT WIDTH CHECK
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DIA CHECK
SHRINKAGE CHECK
RE-PACK FABRIC ROLLS WITH IDENTIFICATION STICKER: PASS/HOLD/REJECTED
FABRIC ISSUED TO CUTTING DEPARTMENT
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4 POINT SYSTEM DEFECT STANDARD
Defects/faults identified are assigned a number of points depending on the severity/length of the defect by using below tables:
Defects between 0-3" in length/width
1 point
Defects between 3-6" in length/width
2 point
Defects between 6"-9" in length/width
3 point
Defects between 9"-40" in length/width
4 point
Defects above 40" 1 meter 4+ of 4 point is to be assigned to one linear yard. For a defect running continuously along the length of the fabric, 4 point should be assigned for each linear yard. Hole is evaluated point by size. Fault more than 40” of size should be assigned points in the way written/mentioned.
INSPECTION FOR FABRIC FAULTS
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Equipment: Fabric Inspection m/c Method: Load the fabric roll on the m/c. Switch on the inspection light. Run the fabric on the glazed surface and check the fabric faults as described below. Major fault: Not correctable or more than 5mm in size or if present, classify the garment as second. Minor fault: Correctable or less than 5mm in size. Faults:
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Holes
Fabric cuts
Needle line
Sinker line
Drop stitch
Needle patch
Oil stain
Knit pattern
Fly
Yarn faults (thin, thick, yarn breaks, contamination, double yarn etc)
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Penalize the individual faults on the basis of 4-point fabric inspection system. Decision: Grade ‘A’: Less than 40 penalty points-exportable. Grade ‘B’: 41 to 50 penalty points-captive use. Grade ‘C’: Above 50 penalty points-fabric can either be use for recovery after the decision of operational head or out rightly rejected depending on the severity of the fabric faults and recovery %. Important Note: The quality checkers check the fabric for major faults as marked major against the individual faults listed above and decide the approval of fabric roll on the basis of 8 major faults allowable only. Quality Assurance shall inspect the rolls randomly on 4 – point inspection method.
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CHAPTER : 13 CUTTING DEPARTMENT Auditing procedures: Auditing procedures in cutting starts from the stage when sample and tech pack comes for the cutting. Before the bulk cutting starts the auditor has to check the below points:
authenticity of the pattern with seal and signature on the pattern by the authorized personnel. Cross check pattern against approved measurement, specification on sheet and other tech pack details. Fabric audit report. Pattern of all sizes are checked to counter in case of any error in grading. Patterns of all sizes are checked to counter in case of any error in grading.
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Pattern are crossed check for any other additional requirement during the PPM (e.g. extra notches). Patterns are checked for extra shrinkage margin added according to the fabric shrinkage report. In case of critical styles the placements and required layout should be highlighted and displayed Fabric relaxation should be done before the bulk cutting as per the fabric shrinkage report.
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Below are the quality auditing procedures during the bulk cutting. Checking for spreading and laying.
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Laying is done in one-way direction.
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Check spreading quality and makes sure the layer should not be either too tight or too loose.
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Patterns are being laid in one-way direction for all the components.
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Patterns are being placed according to the grain line. Spreading should be checked for layer height, layer length, width of layer and marker width. Every roll should be segregated with paper/fabric during spreading.
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Once the spreading is done, bundles have been cut out of the lay. The bundles which have been cut out according to the pattern must have allowance from the margin. Initially, the bundles have been cut with the help of straight knife. The cutting department has 7 straight knives in total, which the individually costs 50,000/-.
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Once the cutting is done with straight knife, the edges will be trimmed with band knife which individually costs 2-2.5 lakhs. The cutting department has 3 band knives in total.
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The band knife has suction pumps whuch helps the fabric to stick together in a lay.
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Whenever the band and straight knife is used, the operator has to wear the metal gloves, which cost 9000/- individual pair.
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The blade is used in band knife is 4320 mm in length.
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Cleaning the band knife is done through these.
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A procedure after cutting is done: Top, middle and bottom panels of every component have to checked against pattern for its measurement (tolerance (+\ -)1/8’’).
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Bundling and ticketing
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After auditing the cut panels, all components identified with stickers. The stickers information is recorded for all roll and lot wise. Defining the place of ticketing for better access. Check the sticker adhesive gum to avoid gum stains on components. 100% panels checking.
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CHAPTER : 14 STITCHING DEPARTMENT Auditing procedures:
Mock-up of all critical operations duly approved with floor QA must be displayed on machine. SPI of all the machine need to be checked on daily basis. Machine setting and thread tension of every machine need to be cross checked on daily basis and in case any faculty machine. Found, and then the QA has to stop the machine function immediately and intimate to one supervisor or call the mechanic. Machine can only be start functioning after the approval form the concerned QA. Check points must be placed as discussed during PPM- Pre production meeting. Checking instructions translated into local languages are to be displayed at checking tables. Displayed of approval Trim Card/Checking Instructions/Measurements Sheet/How to check guideline to be done at the end of line table board. 100% critical measurements to be done at end of line table, marking can be done on end line table board. A duly signed and scaled sample with complete actual trims and comments need to be displayed at every line. To achieve and sustain a required quality standards in every garment, check points has to be placed across the line. No. of check. Points required and its position has to be decided during PPM. Procedure is been set to sign on bundle tag by the checker once that bundle is passed by him. In general below three check points are to be placed. In general below three check points are to be placed.
Stitching procedures: The fabric has been issued from the cutting department
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The moon ta is taken out of the fusing machine.
The CHAPS logo is stitched in the moon tag.
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The moon tag is then cut from the edges in order to get stitched properly on the back iodine.
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The moon tag is then stitched on the back of the bodice.
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Once the moon tag is attached to the back, the shoulder seam of the bodice is overlocked
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The zipper is stitched
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The collar is attached to the neck line and then extra fabric is cut out.
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The Zipper is then attached to the centre front of the neckline.
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The basic bodice is ready with the shoulder, collar and zipper attachment.
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The sleeves are then attached to the shoulders and the side seam is attached.
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The cuff is then cut and stitched.
The bottom of the body is then hemmed.
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Initial checking:
Initial checking has to be done to keep control on preparatory process and found any defects. Cheers has to maintain reports for every fault which helps to control the error occurring frequently. Midline Checking: Mid line checking has to be done to keep control on the critical operations and found defects. At this stage the garment is not fully finished and is easy to repair. Checkers has to maintain reports for every fault which helps to control the error occurring frequently. End line Checking: End of line checking has to be done for checking on constructions, to found any sewing defects, to cross check all the trims against approval, measuring critical defects Checkers has to maintain reports for every fault which helps to control the error occurring frequently and to identify the sewing defect rate. The end line checker has to follow the below written procedure to check the garments: Identify the garment for checking with style number or other reference. Lay the garment on the checking table face up and inspect the garment for sewing, seaming and assembly defects. Inspect each garment in the following sequence:
Collar-Right Shoulder-Right sleeve –Right Side Seam-Right Front-Left Shoulder-Left Sleeve-Left Side Seam- Left Front. Reverse the garment and again check in the same sequence. Inspect for the correct placement of Label, Embroidery, patches, badges, etc. Measure the garment with approved measurement and check for the correctness of the specifications as per the measurement chart at the places specified by the QAD personnel. After the inspection, keep the “Pass Garments” and the “Alter Garments” in separate bins provided. Refer the approved sample foe the correct trims and accessories placement. Record the inspection finding in the format. First output evaluation/Pilot inspection: The purpose of pilot inspection is to evaluate the construction related issues at the very beginning of manufacturing process. The ideal time to perform this audit is when the output is just started. 116 | P a g e
This pilot inspection will help in determining if the manufacturing process is achieving the desired level of product quality.
QA has check the pilot pieces against PP sample and assess below:
Construction detail of the garment against Pre-Production sample. Measurement of the garment to be checked against approved specs. Appearance (puckering, roping, pinch etc) of the garment. Any needles chew/needle damage. Trim detail. Shrinkage testing. Appearance after wash check. QA has to maintain reports for every inspection and to provide a corrective action plan in case of any failure. Reports must be evaluated by line supervisor, floor in charge and senior authorities on daily basis.
Line walking Inspection:
The purpose of the line walk is to check the operations on each and every machines and controlling the defects at the needle point. QA has to keep his eyes on the preparatory processes, handling of the garment, WIPs during the line visit. QA is responsible to maintain work disciplines and monitor the same. QA is responsible to instruct/guide to operator in case of any discrepancy found and providing any attachment/templates required for ease of operation. QA has to maintain reports for every inspection and provide a corrective action plan in case of any failure. Reports must be evaluated by Line supervisor, floor in charge and senior authorized on daily basis. QA has to random pull some of the garment for its measurement verification upon every visit and prepare report for the same.
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CHAPTER : 15
15.MACHINES IN DUKE DIFFERENT TYPES OF MACHINES AVAILABLE IN DUKE There are four brands of stitching machines available named Juke, Brother, Pegasus and Yamato. Types of machines available: 1.
SINGLE NEEDLE LOCK STITCH (L/S) This machine is used for tailoring purpose only. Juke and brother brands are available. Single needle or double needle with one bobbin.
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OVERLOCK MACHINE (O/L) This machine is used for overlocking. Two needle four thread overlocking machine is used for side seam. Two needle five thread is used for sleeve attachment. Single needle three thread machine. Pegasus and Yamato brands available.
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FLATLOCK MACHINE (F/L) Single needle two thread is used for chainstitch. Two needle three thread is used for hemming. Three needle four thread is used for decorating seams etc. Three needle five thread is also used for decorative purpose. Pegasus and Yamato brands are available of this machine.
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PROCESS OF SEWING & STITCHING A GARMENT
OPERATION BREAKDOWN LABEL MAKING LABEL TO MOON ATTACH MOON TO BACK PLACKET ATTACH
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POCKET MAKING POCKET ATTATCH SHOULDER O/L WITH TAPE SHOULDER F/L BOTTOM HEM COLLOR ATTACH COLLAR FINISH SLEEVE ATTACH O/L SIDE SEAM O/L
SLEEVE HEM F/L SIDE SLIT WASHCARE LABEL
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CHAPTER : 16 EMBROIDERY ROOM
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All the garments get stitched, all the garments are transferred to the embroidery department. There are in total 12 embroidery machines, a single machine has 20 heads, each head has 9 needles. A single machine can give you 20embridered garments in every 5 minutes. It has a capacity of 20,000 garments per day. The floppy which carries all the embroidery designs and the information about the number of stitches of different logo inserted in the machine so that the production starts. The fabric on which the embroidery is done should be of 180GSM200GSM. The pantograph (area where the embroidery is done) should e of 400*800cm maximum. Monte Carlo embroidery- 380 stitches. CHAPS Embriodery-1667 stitches. Per embroidery on a garment costs 6-10/It moves with a speed of 700RPM (Revolution/minute). 4 pieces are made for approval.
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Before the embroidery starts the brans have to confirm their logo on the different shades of fabric. For that they have a specific machine which has multiple frames and has the capacity to use more than 3 colours at a time.
The shade card looks like such:
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Once the embroidery is confirmed from the buyer, they have to locate the embroidery on the T-shirt and then mark a lot.
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Before setting the garment on the machine, the garment is placed either a paper on the back side of the marking so that no damage is caused to the garment.
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The embroidery should not be displaced from the marking. If it is displaced, the garment will be strictly rejected by the buyer.
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PRIMARY CHECKING & FINISHING
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CHAPTER : 17 PROCEDURE
Once the garment comes from the embroidery department, the checkers identify the fault in the garment (if any).
The primary checkers play an important role in developing the final product.
They have to see whether any thread is their which has to be cut.
If they find any pen mark or stain in the t-shirt, they try to remove it with steam or is the stain is too concentrate they try to remove it with Benzene and Acetone.
If the stain could not be removed after applying chemicals, the garment piece will be rejected.
If the stain is removed, it goes to the blow dryer so that they can pass on to the final checking Department.
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FINAL CHECKING
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PROCEDURE
After blow drying the garment, it comes to the final checking Department where the checkers pay attention to each and every garment from the beginning. Once they end up finding fault in the garment, it gets rejected in the final stage. If not, the garment will be passed for pressing. Once it is done with pressing, it goes to the packing department. The left out fault pieces will be renewed if they can find any scope of recovery for it.
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CHAPTER : 18 PACKAGING DEPARTMENT PROCEDURE
Once the final checking is done, the approved pieces will be given for pressing, the rest of the pieces will be counted as the dead piece.
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Folding
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ID label attachment
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A-ZONE Checking:
The fabric is properly checked for the final time before the packaging and the bar code attached.
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PACKING TYPES
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Solid packing
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Size Bars have been put in the Hanger according to buyer’s specification.
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Polybag Packing.
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Online Packing
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DISPATCH DEPARTMENT
The production house will send an ACN (Advanced Shipment Notice) to the port, 15 days prior to shipment. Once they are done with the packing, the order will be dispatched. The merchandiser sends an Invoice to the CHA (CLEARING HOUSING AGENT) and also the buyer’s Forwarder. Once the order reaches the port, the CHA confirms the packing list and handovers it to the buyer’s forwarder. The forwarder then reconfirms the packing list and a BL (BILL OF LOADING) or FCR (FORWARDER’S CARGO RECEIPT) is sent to the merchandiser. The order is then shipped to the notified party within 28 days.
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FEEDBACK
Overall Rating 3.9 see rating trend Category Ratings 3.8 Company Culture 3.8 Work-Life Balance 3.7 Skill Development 3.5 Work Satisfaction 3.4 Job Security 3.1 Career Growth 3.0 Salary & Benefits
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MY LEARNING “My learning at Duke” My experience has been very fruitful in this nine weeks internship at duke not only have I had a deep understanding of the firm with workers and designer’s. I have also understood how to conduct myself in various work environment situations. I have learn t that it important to be eager about things to be able to learn more. One should take initiative and even if you’re unsuccessful, you will still learn how you can improve upon your work. This internship has been opportunities for me to test out the skills. I developed in college and see how the work in the real world. Working in an office environment, has helped me observe how other operate and take on those attributes that I feel work best. Whether it’s communication, behavior, or office etiquette. It has been a very enriching journey and hs helped me re discover myself as a designer.
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REFERENCES
https://www.dukeindia.com/ https://www.ambitionbox.com/reviews/d uke-fashions-india-ltd-dot-reviews?OverallCompanyRating=5 https://economictimes.indiatimes.com/co mpany/duke-fashions-india-limited/U18101PB1990PLC010599 -https://www.indiamart.com/duke-fashion-india/aboutus.html
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