Dr. Di’s Corner

My mother used to say to me things like, “play it safe”, “a bird in the hand is worth two in the bush”, and a million other statements that she would come up with to protect me. All of my life I have been a risk taker. I am just like my father, the kind of people that have to learn the hard way. I prefer to think of it as we need to try new things, make our own mistakes, figure out what works and what doesn’t, and learn from our experiences.

What are some of the more memorable risks that I’ve taken? Well, I moved to LA right out of college with my boyfriend and no job. But I got one. I left a tenure-track position at a major university to go to work for a supplement company in North Carolina. I left that job to move back to CT, again with no job. I left another great position to start my publishing company. I broke off an engagement. I got divorced. I believe all of these choices were stepping stones to prepare me for where I am today. Taking risks is so important in terms of making you stronger and more resil-

Dr. DI’s s CORNER CORNER

ient to failure and things not working out the way you had planned. If you never take risks, if you never strive to achieve something bigger than what you can handle, if you’re paralyzed because you’re afraid to fail, then you’ll never reach your dreams because you will always stay in your safe, little comfort zone. I realized at a very young age that the one thing I could never accept at the end of my life was to be left wondering, “what if”. I’ll give up safety, security and stability to ensure that I have tried every possible thing that I could ever desire to do so that I won’t be asking that question in my old age. Sure, there will be some things that I may end up regretting, but at least I’ll have the answer to what would have happened if I did it versus wondering about it. To me, the wondering is much more painful than trying something and failing. If you take a risk and you fail that’s fantastic, because you had the courage to step out of your comfort zone and you will have learned something valuable about what happened and more importantly, about yourself. •

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Talk By Chef David Robbins DIRTy

To Me

Indigenous Suwannee, Florida Oyster Mushrooms fruiting out of repurposed, organic waste.

Sex, drugs, and rock & roll” excitedly exclaims the general manager of an infamous 5-star South Beach, Miami party hotel abundant with A list celebs and bikini models. Enthusiastically he implores, “…this conference needs to showcase that we CAN be and ARE great at so much more than that…” One year prior, I was a guest at the very same hotel for “trufflepalooza”; a fully decadent tasting dinner co-hosted by Andrew Carmellini, a James Beard Award winning Miami/NYC chef, and a very close friend of mine who owned the truffle company cosponsoring the event. After a phenomenal meal brought to completion by an ever so balanced umami laced black truffle parmesan ice cream and a cappuccino graced with freshly grated white alba truffles, we retired to my friend’s loft in downtown Brickell. Have you ever seen $30K of fresh truffles in a glance? I did that night. In a not so large refrigerator lay very carefully packed containers of “product” adjacent to the “clean room” used for repackaging individual orders of these very delicate and costly fungi. This was a very different and interesting experience to say the least.

Fast forward to the day this farm boy from parts unknown of Hawaii was having a surreal moment filled with excitement, wonder, humility and anxiety. I had just started as the resort’s executive sous chef, overseeing 6 different food outlets and banquets at a hotel which consistently rated as one of the top 5 hotels in a city that is among the top tourist destinations in the world. Little did I know that wacky truffled evening, I would soon be back here helping to run the place. Preparing and conceptualizing for the aforementioned conference (a national summit of event directors) we were instructed by a VP of the hotel group to be innovative…to exceed expectations! For me to do this, I needed to first ask some questions. What are the expectations placed on chefs? What is in the core/the roots of what we are doing? It all has to start somewhere. Who are we? What’s in our “genes”? What’s guiding us? What fuels our passion? What’s going to make us better than great? To answer these questions, we need to first ask about the freshness, quality, ethics, ecology and sustainability from where our food comes. How does the ever-changing perception of food affect our choices? How do our choices affect the perceptions of the communities which we serve, our health and local/global ecosystems? How do we make better choices for a better future? Over the years that I have evolved in, out and back in to being a chef I do often ask myself these questions. It boils down to what does it mean to be a ‘chef’. It is a vast myriad of abilities and responsibilities to be sure and it certainly is not the “sex, drugs, and rock & roll”. For me, I find it incredibly humbling and exciting that as chefs we have the ability to educate, to connect communities, to affect perceptions and choices, and to actually initiate real significant change. It is more than an ability, it is an imperative responsibility. If we as chefs are neglecting this, we are not only NOT doing our jobs, but we are doing a disservice to society. This brings me to my current journey. 2020 was certainly a year that blessed us with hardships that afforded us the opportunity to rise to the occasion with openness, positivity and innovation. In such, I was able to start the Sunday Supper Club, using my educational background in cultural ecology to connect the often times behind the scene farmers and family owned food producers of SWFL to the broader community in a very personal way. While on this journey, I have met so many interesting, passionate, brilliant and innovative people, many of whom started out in other careers, but through their love of their craft they became selftaught amateurs who reinvented themselves into new professions. Let’s meet a few of them!

Russell Hollander of Care2Grow Artisan Mushrooms

Russell is a truly “fun guy” whose entrance to the mesmerizing world of mycology began as a hobby. While in his “day job” he makes custom cabinetry, over the last year he has been setting up a pretty impressive small scale mushroom farm. Fungi, being decomposers, presented themselves as an ideal carbon neutral food to farm. They require very little energy to grow/harvest and sawdust from his wood working (typically a refuse) became a perfect repurposed resource as a growing medium for many of his mycelium (the “root mat” so to speak that produces the fruiting body which we know as a mushroom). Using a storage tote, some fans, and vent materials to create a scaled-up humidifier for one of his grow climates, Russell is still very concise in all the details. He uses a clean room to clone his various fungi strains in custom

made agar discs to study the different varieties under a microscope and learn how different temperatures and humidity levels can speed up or slow down fungal growth. He opts for a slower fruiting, but better eating mushroom. Currently, Russell is growing 3 varietals of oyster mushrooms (one of which he’s named “Suwannee” after the North Florida swamp where he and fellow “fun guy” Parker foraged the original, an indigenous species), shiitakes, reishi, and lion’s mane. All of which are incredible quality, super tasty and amazingly nutritious. Amongst the multitude of fascinating health properties, there are studies that show lion’s mane can help with regrowth of the human nervous system. Russell plans to add shimeji (beech), pioppino and cordyceps (medicinal use) over the coming months. He estimates that production will be upwards of 200+ pounds per week by January. As a culinarian, I can attest that these are certainly the most unique, freshest, highest quality, and tastiest fungi to be found in SWFL. Closing the “green loop”, Russell is also a rancher of earth worms (vermiculture) feeding them with used grow blocks (saw dust/mycellium) creating vermicastings (available to purchase by the pound); the best organic fertilizer for your veggie garden.

Luis Orbegoso & Sherry Spargo of Chakra Microgreens/Kombucha

The etymology on the name chakra is not what you might think at first take. In fact, it stems from Orbegoso’s (a former M.D. from Lima, Peru) background. The enunciation of the word ‘chakra’ is from the indigenous Quecha peoples of the high elevation Andean communities (the descendants of those who built Macchu Picchu). It refers to “mama paccha” (the mother, the earth) providing a gift from the soil. All of their microgreens are grown using a very high quality specific organic soil mix and are additionally provided nutrients and hydration through a small scale aquaponic system (the use of a living aquatic ecosystem with a species such as tilapia that create all the nutrients needed by the plant as a by product). Every consideration is taken into effect including but not limited to: the origin of the seeds, the type of light used, the temperature and humidity of the growing space, the air quality, and how each different variety of microgreen has specific individual needs. Classical music fills the air waves (for plants and people) as his wife Sherry (former nurse and interior designer) and son freshly cut/package these living superfoods. The end result being very happy plants that are super high in nutritional density with low amounts of lectins and tender cellulose walls, making them easier for your body to absorb the nutrients as you snack on these crisp, bright and delicious baby plants. Their kombucha is equally as detail specific and amazing. Organic teas, seasonal fruits and local honey are used in the fermentation process inoculated with a “top secret” s.c.o.b.y. (symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast). Orbegoso’s medical science expertise has aided him in customizing a balance of the acids produced via fermentation and FLAVOR! Of the top 3 beneficial “organic acids”, acetic acid and gluconic acid are highly probiotic, while some studies show the third (glucuronic acid) can help increase the production of endorphins/sex hormones. The kombucha can be used in recipes to make salad dressings, in fact they bottle a private label mustard kombucha dressing. As a chef, I can honestly say in my humble opinion this is the best tasting locally made kombucha available in SWFL. Oh, did I mention that approximately 80% of their energy requirements for the microgreens and kombucha are provided via a solar grid engineered by Orbegoso and all the “spent” growing medium is turned into compost? No waste. Efficient. Highly sustainable. Having the opportunity to grow relationships with these farmers has been a blessing for me. Initially my path set out to talk about how traditional farmers practicing “regenerative agriculture” meant fostering healthy soil (dirt), which in turn meant a healthier planet and a healthier you. I was inspired by a couple of great documentaries: “Kiss the ground” (available on Netflix) and “Fantastic Fungi” (available on Amazon video & AppleTV). Facts and statistics about how we could (in theory) over the next 3 to 5 decades sequester all the carbon emissions our species has produced in the last 150 years and reverse climate change was astounding and inspiring. Talking DIRTy is certainly a conversation everyone should be having. I’ve now seen that the path to this regeneration of our ecology, personal and social health as a species, and doing it in a sustainable way, comes in many and often times unexpected forms. • RESOURCES:

Russell Holland

Care2Grow Gourmet Mushrooms

239.253.7076 @caretwogrow Saturdays: 3rd St. South Farmer’s Market

Sherry Spargo

Chakra Microgreens/ Kombucha

412.480.8718 @sherryjspargo @microgreenschakra Saturdays: Shoppes at Vanderbilt Farmer’s Market Sunday: Pine Ridge Farmer’s Market

Franz & Jana Kox East Fork Creek Farm All Natural Aquaponic Lettuces + Food Forest

239.887.0116 @eastforkcreek Saturdays : Produce Market at East Fork Creek Farms, South Ft. Myers info@eastforkcreek.com *Future host site for Supper Club Dinner Event (date TBD, contact chefdavidrobbins @gmail.com)

Nick & Natalie Batty

Inyoni Organic Farm

239.980.3605 @inyoniorganicfarm Saturdays: 3rd St. South Farmer’s Market Online Sales www.inyoniorganicfarm.store

Jurg & Leslie Landert

Landert European Breads

239.961.6116 @landertbread Saturdays: Shoppes at Vanderbilt Farmer’s Market Online Sales www.landertbread.com

Roasted Lion’s Mane Fungi and Fermented Garlic Honey Yummm Sauce

(serves 4 - 6)

Recipe:

Local lion’s mane, equally delicious and medicinal, is our choice for this recipe. It’s kept simple to let the mushroom’s natural flavor and texture shine - grilled and accented with a sauce made of fermented garlic honey, which besides being a flavor bomb, is also a magical concoction loaded with natural anti-bacterial, anti-viral and immune boosting properties. This dish hits the flavor notes of spicy, sweet and umami. It’s the perfect dish to help you stay healthy this winter.

Ingredients:

Spiced Fermented Garlic Honey

• Start early, keep on hand perpetually • 3-4 bulbs garlic (broken into individual cloves and peeled) • 16 oz. raw local honey • 2 red thai chilis • 2-3 cinnamon sticks • 3-4 whole star anise

Add to make Yummm Sauce

• 2 oz. fresh ginger root (finely minced or micro planed) • 4 oz. tamari (or shoyu) • 2 oz. mirin (sweet rice wine) • 2 tbsp. roasted sesame oil • 2 oz. gochujang (fermented chili paste homemade or store bought is ok)

Mushrooms & Garnish

• 3 to 4 large Lion’s Mane Mushrooms (Shiitake or Oyster Mushrooms) • 1 small bunch green herbs to garnish (scallions, thai basil, coriander leaves) • 2 - 3 oz. shaved radish (daikon or really any fresh radish)

To Make Fermented Garlic Honey:

• For the fermented garlic honey: • Mix all ingredients together in a large sterilized glass mason jar. Spices are optional for extra dimension of flavor. • Seal the container. • The mixture will initially be very thick. • Store in an area between 75-85 (f) degrees. • 1-2 days - garlic will start to purge liquid and the mixture will begin to get a little looser. • 3-4 days - the mixture will begin to become even more liquid, gently swirl the mixture to stir. Don’t open yet. • 5-10 days - the mixture will become much thinner, bubbles will begin to emerge, you may burp the mixture at this point, as CO2 is being produced (note, the aroma will be quite strong). • From this point on, the mixture is ready for use. It may be consumed as is, or turned into another sauce or marinade. • Once you start using, this mixture can perpetually “live” in its container and always be ready for use (I’ve had batches for over 2 years). You simply need to continue to feed it. Leave some of the original batch and “feed” it with a little more fresh garlic and raw honey.

To Make Garlic Honey Yummm Sauce:

• Reserve half or more of your fermented garlic honey for future use. • Mix 6 oz. of strained fermented garlic honey with the ginger, tamari, sesame oil, mirin, and gochujang. • Whisk together until smooth. • I like to pop in 4-5 pieces of the fermented garlic into the final sauce, as it continues to ferment and add some extra “funk” to your finished sauce.

Cook the Fungi

• Tear the lion’s mane into 2 to 4 large chunks. • Brush lightly with the sauce - allow to soak in for at least 30 minutes. • In the meanwhile, preheat a cast iron grill to medium-high heat. • Place the chunks of mushrooms on the hot grill pan - do not move them. • Allow to char for 3-4 minutes, baste lightly with sauce (caution, this may cause some smoke if indoors). • Flip, char for another 3-4 minutes - do not move them again. • Remove from grill pan. • Garnish with the scallions, radishes, and other picked fresh green herbs.

Chef David Robbins

(a true locavore chef) is an advocate for biodynamic agriculture, slow foods, clean eating/living, veggie forward cuisine, supporting family owned local businesses, and spreading education on all aspects of sustainability. Growing up on a small family farm in Hawaii gave him a unique appreciation and perspective for the places and people that produce our food. Chef Robbins launched “The Sunday Supper Club,” in collaboration with various local experts connected to a wide span of clean living components. Robbins describes the events as “a way to experience community, good eats, whole food philosophy, and meaningful conversations. His vision is to recreate the sense of healthy connectivity people had with the earth, their food, farmers, bakers, and neighbors that has been lost to too many of us in recent decades. 239.247.2244 IG @chefdavidrobbins chefdavidrobbins @gmail.com.