imageIMAGE souce: wwww.pinterest.com SOURCE: WWW.PINTEREST.COM
c o n t e n t s THE FUTURE FASHION IS CIRCULAR: WHY THE 2020S WILL BE ABOUT MAKING NEW CLOTHES OUT OF OLD ONES
PAGE 1 - 2 PAGE 3 - 4
FASHION AND SOCIAL MEDIA: BOON OR BANE?
PAGE 5 - 6 PAGE 7 - 8
HOW KATE MOSS HAS INFLUENCED FASHION FOREVER THIRTY YEARS AT VOGUE: HOW ANNA WINTOUR CHANGED THE WAY THE WORLD GETS DRESSED
PAGE 9 - 10 PAGE 11 - 12 PAGE 13 - 14
BILLIE EILISH WANTS TO CHANGE HER STYLE & IMAGE WHEN SHE TURNS 18 3 WAYS FASHION WAS DEFINED IN THE 2010S
PAGE 15 - 16 PAGE 17 - 18
HOW FASHION RULES THE WORLD
THE 2020 MET GALA THEME IS ‘ABOUT TIME’ JARED LETO CONTINUES THE TREND OF MEN WEARING HEELS
THE FUTURE FASHION IS CIRCULAR:
WHY THE 2020S WILL BE ABOUT MAKING NEW CLOTHES OUT OF OLD ONES
T
he key word for Vogue’s January 2020 issue is values. Interpret that as you may: monetary, ethical, sentimental. Every definition relates to the big picture: that fashion needs to reassess its value system, and quickly. We have to change the way money is invested and spent; we have to shop with brands whose values reflect our own; and we have to change the way we assign value to what we buy and wear.
It’s stained, it’s got holes, it’s no longer bright white.
T
-shirts are among several “high-frequency basics” that tend to have a single, very short life; underwear, athletic clothes, and shoes fall into the category too. They’re items you wear through quickly, can’t be resold, and are too dingy to be donated, so they inevitably end up in the trash. An estimated 50 million tons of clothing is discarded every year, and et’s start by working backward, because I think most of it will not biodegrade in a landfill. (Synthetthat last part is actually the most important. In ic materials like polyester or nylon can also leach fashion, the inverse of value might be disposabil- chemicals into the earth, and if they’re incinerated, ity: If your T-shirt costs less than your Starbucks they may become carcinogenic.) latte, you probably won’t think twice about throwing it out when it rips. Value isn’t just about price, of he amount of time, energy, and resources that course; you might cherish a $50 vintage dress more go into those trashed items is usually disproporthan a designer bag. But therein lies the difference: tionate to their quick turnaround; a single cotton You value the dress because it’s rare, or because it’s T-shirt may require up to 700 gallons of water and by a certain designer, or simply because it has a sto- may travel across several countries during producry. It may even be more valuable now than it was tion. But even if it’s stained or damaged at the end of 30 years ago. Your old T-shirt, on the other hand, is its life, it could likely be recycled into something else, hardly a treasure—and who would want it, anyway? like housing insulation or even another T-shirt.
L
image souce: wwww.pinterest.com
T
1
W aking that clear to consumers will be key to making fashion more sustainable in the future. We’re phasing out single-use plastic and paper bags from our lives, and we should think about our clothes the same way. What will happen to this T-shirt, handbag, or sneaker when I’m done with it? In the long term, it should ultimately change the way we shop, because we’ll only buy things on breaking down and rebuilding with legitimate value and a feasible polyester, followed by recoverable stretch (e.g., athletic gear), then end use. bio-based and engineered fibers (like rayon and Tencel). or all of the benefits of natural and organic cotton, hemp, onger and Ahlum had deep linen, rayon, and so on, it’s almost industry experience prior to always better to use what already launching Thousand Fell. Songer exists. A key point in the Ellen worked in business development MacArthur Foundation’s A New for Alexander Wang and in merTextiles Economy is that fashion chandising at Gap, and Ahlum must phase out nonrenewable reran another men’s sneaker brand. sources and move toward renewFor Thousand Fell, they zeroed able, regenerative inputs. It’s only in on white, low-top sneakers in recently that regenerated fibers particular because they’ve become have been commercially availasuch a foundational item in our ble, though; Evrnu’s regenerated cotton is still in its prototype stage. wardrobes. (Think: Adidas Stan Smiths, Vans slip-ons, Greats Flynn said it will be commercialRoyales.) ized next year and in the market by 2021. Next, her team is working e wear them to work, on the weekend, and even out at night, and because they’re nicely priced, we don’t hesitate to buy them often. “People are replacing their white sneakers every four to six months,” Ahlum says. “They don’t know what to do with them [when they’re dirty], so they throw them in the trash chute. There isn’t a secondary market for those kinds of basic sneakers, so it falls on the brand to recycle them and have an end-of-life solution.”
M
F
S
W
W W W, V O G U E . C O M _
2
HOW FASHION RULES THE WORLD In the 21st century the style trends of the fashion industry dominate the world more than they ever did, and control not only the way people dress but also trends in home ware design, makeup fashion and people’s overall attitudes. In the 60s flower power did not only mean flares and tunics, it summed up the whole attitude of a generation, and this is even more prominent today. Nowadays, fashion is bold and daring, and this reflects a noughties generation that is not afraid to say what they think, or wear what they want. Fashion is not just a means of clothing your body, it is the essence of your personality and beliefs, and designers are well aware of the power they hold. Designers’ predictions and designs for the coming season are more hotly anticipated than any other revelation in the world. Trends in fashion unify women and men around the world, yet they still allow people the ability to portray their own individual style at the same time. A period of time portrayed in a picture can be identified immediately just by the style of clothes the people are wearing, and this sums up just how powerful and all-encompassing fashion is. Fashion can change from one second to the next, but what never changes is the hold it has over society, and the role it plays in the modern world. Fashion is so important that
W W W. F I B R E 2 F A S H I O N . C O M
whole magazines are dedicated to it, TV programs dedicate hours of transmission time to the subject, and people discus it between their friends continually. To keep up with the latest fashions, people subscribe to fashion magazines, keep a keen eye on what has appeared in shops and what has been there for a long time, and go to fashion shows to see what the designers are putting on the catwalk this season, and therefore what will make it in to the shops. For the extremely wealthy, they might have their own personal relationship with a designer who will keep them well ahead of the current trends, therefore, many people wanting to know what the new fashion lines are going to be will watch what celebrities are wearing. Being ahead of fashion is for many, the ultimate achievement, although being too ahead of the fashion is just as bad as being behind it! If you are too far ahead people will think what you are wearing is not in fashion, because it isn’t, yet. Designers continue to market the importance they know people put on fashion, and people continue to hang on to designers’ every move in the fashion world, therefore as long as this carries on fashion will continue to maintain its dominant position in society for a very long time to come. It influences not only what we wear, but everything we do, say, and even think. This is why fashion does indeed rule the world.
3
IMAGE SOURCE: WWW.PINTEREST.COM
4
image souce: wwww.pinterest.com
SOCIAL MEDIA BOON OR BANE? 5
When social media became a key communication platform for people to network, brands immediately began to realize their value to showcase their products and reach out to their audience. Few have done it more effectively than fashion brands, which realize their primary marketing impact is through the visual medium. For decades, print and television have been the mainstay of fashion marketing, evolving into various forms of expression, from the fashion trends published by popular fashion magazines to live broadcasts of the prominent fashion weeks in London, Milan, Paris and New York. With the advent of the Internet and social media, the ability to share and convey brand imagery exploded, leading to even niche brands and upcoming designers getting much greater exposure and visibility. Another important aspect of social media was the advent of the fashion bloggers, who express their opinions on fashion and industry trends on the Internet and social media, moving fashion commentary out of the realm of the experienced and elite fashion editors to teenagers and twenty-something young adults with hundreds of thousands of followers.
As the industry realized the impact of the voice that this new tribe carried, it actively engaged them to promote their brands, enhancing their celebrity status further. Brands are unanimous in saying that these bloggers are helping them cover a much wider audience, leading to creation of new sales opportunities. Social media platforms have also provided an opportunity for all to showcase their own sense of style, clothing and fashion outlook. However, the flip side of this has been the reduction in the number of times a garment is worn. Once it is clicked and posted on social media, people do not want to be seen in the same outfit, therefore reducing the likelihood that it will be worn again. This in turn has led to the explosive growth of fast fashion as customers scan clothes more frequently. While this may lead people to think the fashion industry is doing well, the picture is not so rosy. It is easy to conclude that social media for fashion is a double-edged sword. But even after the long term impact is considered, it still represents a significant catalyst for the growth of the industry, and can be one for the nurturing of the industry as well. With the use of social media platforms, new designers and talent are being discovered every day across continents, new ideas are being shared and a truly global fashion outlook has developed. This will help fashion reach every segment of the population in the long run. W W W.FIBRE2FASHION.COM
6
HOW KATE MOSS HAS INFLUENCED FASHION FOREVER
Kate Moss
’ status as a style icon is part of fashion history. She inspires everyone, from designers like John Galliano, Marc Jacobs and Vivienne Westwood to Hollywood stylists and buyers at retail chain stores.
R
emember that Gatsby-esque, blue-sequinned 1930s vintage dress she wore for her 30th birthday? A month later, Tom Ford sent his models out in identical gowns as part of Gucci’s fall collection. After having a baby in 2002, Kate slipped on cute ballet flats, the Pirouette by French Sole. Suddenly, ballet flats were everywhere, flying off the shelves of H&M and Banana Republic.
S
o how did Kate get that unique take on style? As a cash-strapped teen, she hunted down secondhand clothing in London’s Portobello Market. Unlike the chic, carefully coordinated merchandise on display in fashion stores, the stalls jumbled different types of clothes together. The unusual combinations inspired her to mix things up — mens’ suits with Adidas trainers, high-heeled suede boots with antique silk nightgowns (which later triggered the underwear-as-outerwear trend).
A
s she once said: “I don’t follow a trend. I just have a thrown-together look people can relate too, not too ‘done.’ ”
company’s head designer in 2000, wasn’t even intending to put the bag into production until Kate picked one up. Waiting lists exploded worldwide.
K
ate can change fashion overnight. Just when everyone began copying those ballet flats, she started wearing gladiator sandals. When boot-cut jeans were the style of the moment, Kate was photographed in skinny drainpipes, dressed like a rock chick in shaggy coats and vests. The boot cut was history, and skinny jeans were all over the runway and the new must-have fit.
I
nevitably, Kate wanted a piece of the action for herself. She chose British retail store Topshop to launch a collaboration in 2007. Fashionistas were thrilled, and stars from Cameron Diaz to Selma Blair proudly wore pieces from the collection. Sure enough, first-year sales were a smash hit, reaching $5.7 million in the first week alone.
A
t 40, Kate claims her sense of style is mellowing — “You can’t [walk] a dog in a heel,” she’s said. We say, she’s still got it. N
Y
P
O
S
T
.
C
O
M
W
e love her for taking the snobbishness out of fashion. With her ever-present naughty laugh, and even naughtier cigarette, the ultimate party girl doesn’t take herself too seriously. There’s always been a youthfulness and sense of fun to her outfits — no wonder women want to dress like her.
L
ittle surprise, then, that designers have fallen over themselves to gift her their clothes. When Kate wears your gear, it sells out. Take, for instance, the Balenciaga Motorcycle bag. Nicolas Ghesquière, the
7
“ People think your success is just a matter of having a pretty face. But it’s easy to be chewed up and spat out. You’ve got to stay ahead of the game to be able to stay in it. “
IMAGE SOURCE: WWW.PINTEREST.COM
8
#GIRL POWER
THIRTY YEARS AT VOGUE: HOW ANNA WINTOUR CHANGED THE WAY THE WORLD GETS DRESSED IMAGE SOURCE: WWW.PINTEREST.COM
9
W
intour has changed how the world gets dressed, in a way that has nothing to do with following trends. (“Trends,” she once said, “is a dirty word.”) She is the key architect of one of the prime aesthetics of our era, which is that of soft power. She has always been as much about power as she is about fashion, and her biggest impact has been on the clothes we see on television screens and newspaper front pages, not on catwalks. Two decades of First Ladies in patterned shifts and colourful cardigans; a million brightly coloured, form-fitting dresses worn by newsreaders and TV presenters all over the world; a brace of new-generation British duchesses dressed in slender tailored coats and skin-tone shoes; even Theresa May’s strong-and-stable necklaces and Keeley Hawes’s power bob in Bodyguard – from behind those sunglasses, Wintour has masterminded much of it. That she was repeatedly linked with ambassadorial roles, when she was close to President Obama, may owe at least some of its traction as an idea to how perfectly one can picture it. Wintour’s personal wardrobe is a masterclass in consistency. “Let it be unique to yourself and yet identifiable to others,” is one of her bon mots on the subject of style. Thirty years in the public eye have seen little change. In warm weather, she wears crew neck, cap-sleeve tailored shift dresses, or else a shirt dress or a shirt with a skirt, always with Manolo Blahnik mid-heel slingbacks the colour of a milky coffee. In cold weather, she teams a statement coat, usually belt-
ed, with knee-high boots. She does not wear trousers. She loves colour, and is particularly fond of animal print and graphic designs, less so of florals. She is unrepentantly high-end in her choices. She takes her pick from the top end of US designers, such as Ralph Lauren and Michael Kors, but also has Gucci and Prada run up dresses in her chosen shape in that season’s colours and fabric. She often chooses Chanel Couture for high-profile occasions such as the Met Gala, or when made a dame at Buckingham Palace last year. She refuses to give up wearing fur even now, when most designers have turned their backs on it.
choice every day at 5am, a personal passion that far predates the athleisure trend. Those sleeveless dresses she loves are, as it happens, the perfect vehicle for showing off arms sculpted by her daily game.
But had Wintour’s reach been confined to those of us who watch her at fashion week, her impact would not have been nearly so profound. As it is, she has been as high-profile in Hollywood as she has been in Manhattan. She is one of the great fictional characters of our age. Her iconography is so deeply engraved in our psyche that Miranda Priestly, the Meryl Streep version of Wintour in Her personal preferences have The Devil Wears Prada, has changed what we think of as become a template for the modstylish. Although she is rarely ern alpha female. The role of seen in public in jeans, her de- Wintour has been played, also, cision to pair a Lacroix jewelled by Wintour herself in the Vogue jacket with blue jeans on the documentaries The September cover of her first ever edition Issue and The First Monday of American Vogue, in Novem- in May, and in cameos in Zober 1988, was the beginning olander 2 and Ocean’s Eight. of a denim moment in fashion How much of the character is that has never truly gone away based on real life is anyone’s since. (The jeans were, she said guess. But even after 30 years, later, an accident. “The jack- the audience can’t get enough. et was actually part of a suit, but the skirt didn’t fit Michaela WWW.THEGUARDIAN.COM [Bercu, the model],” Wintour remembered in an editor’s letter written in 2012. “She had been on vacation back home in Israel and had gained a little weight.”) Wintour’s lack of enthusiasm for black has been a powerful factor in demoting from its pedestal a colour that was once a uniform for the industry and a byword for chic. (That black lacks screen appeal for online shoppers has added to this trend.) Even her passion for tennis has had an impact. Wintour plays her sport of
10
B
illie Eilish has a known sig-
nature style. From her oversized matching tees and shorts to massive parkas and sweats, the baggy look that the singer often rocks has become part of her aesthetic — but it may change. According to an interview with Elle, Billie Eilish wants to change her style and image when she turns 18. And that could bring some new fashion to her wardrobe. When Eilish sat down with Elle for her Women In Music cover shoot, the star explained that her current style may not be forever. The “Bad Guy” singer turns 18 in December, and she says that marks a time in her evolution where she may decide to show off more of her body. “I’m gonna be a woman. I wanna show my body,” Eilish tells the magazine. “What if I wanna make a video where I wanna look desirable? Not a porno! But I know it would be a huge thing. I know people will say, ‘I’ve lost all respect for her.’” Eilish is clearly aware of the unwarranted criticism that could come with a shift in her style to something more sexy and less in line with her iconic baggy look. However, she’s also aware of the fact that no matter what she does there will always be criticism. In the same interview, Eilish goes on to tell the story of a comment that was posted under one of her videos that read, “Tomboys always end up being the biggest whores.” The quote came because Eilish just happened to touch her breasts in the video on accident. “I can’t win,” she says in the interview.
Eilish’s discussion of changing her style isn’t the first time she’s addressed her signature look. In May, she participated in a campaign with Calvin Klein called “I Speak My Truth In #MyCalvins” where she revealed the reason behind the look. In a video for the brand, Eilish says that her baggy clothes are a way of not letting people know everything about her. The style prevents people from making comments on her body because they don’t know what’s underneath those oversized layers. Fast forward a little over a month to June, and the exact thing Eilish spoke about in her Calvins ad happened. The singer was snapped wearing a simple, ribbed white tank top, and the internet exploded with people making comments on her breasts. In fact, it’s a moment she also mentions in her Elle interview, explaining that her boobs began trending in the top spot on Twitter and that these moments are why she chooses to dress as she does. Of course, if Eilish does decide to change her style when she hits 18, she has every right to do so and wouldn’t be the first celebrity to make the change. Former Disney stars like Miley Cyrus, Selena Gomez, and Demi Lovato are often pointed to as examples of teenagers who have grown up in the spotlight, coming into a more adult style and being criticized for their bodies. If Eilish does choose to change her style soon, that’s her decision. But no matter what, you can bet she’ll stay a fashion icon who is true to her own style. W W W. B U S T L E . C O M
11
BILLIE EILISH WANTS TO CHANGE HER STYLE & IMAGE WHEN SHE TURNS 18
image souce: wwww.pinterest.com 12
3 Ways Fashion Was Defined in the 2010s The Insta-fication of Fashion
The Sleek Glow-Up of Kim Kardashian West
Speaking of Instagram, it’s not hyperbolic to say the social network changed the world—or rather, #THEWORLD—and certainly fashion too. What began as a way to brag you were at a Jay-Z concert became a daily stream of brands, trends, and pixel-glossed bodies that turned us all into avatars playing a long, lucrative style game. Brands like Reformation and Alyx Studio became millennial staples through a trail of posts and likes; fashion shows transformed into multimillion-dollar spectacles designed solely to look cool on a handheld livestream; influencer became a career aspiration instead of a word that wasn’t actually in the dictionary.
She’s beauty, and she’s grace; she’s Miss United States—symbolically, anyway. Such is the omnipotent reach of Kim Kardashian West, that saying she defined the decade is like saying champagne is wet. But her remarkable rise is fascinating not because it was a rags-toriches situation, but because it was the privileged Hollywood equivalent: Kim Kardashian West turned reality TV into a bigger star-making vehicle, and a more efficient luxury fashion advertisement, than traditional movie star fame.
Inevitably, the platform’s well-respected fashion empress, Eva Chen, went from being an industry phenom to a celeb in her own right, thanks to both her tastemaking power and her seriously adorable small children. As for fashion itself, it was urged to think inside Instagram’s box, which might explain why leopard-print skirts and coats—not little black dresses and handbags—are the key staples of stylish women’s closets. Hey, a dynamic print looks way better in those “candid” street style photos.
Black Style Matters Fashion
Despite fashion’s eternal obsession with thin blonde women, the 2010s brought people of color to the industry forefront in ways that were long overdue. While Kerby Jean-Raymond made Pyer Moss a beacon of new American style, Dapper Dan claimed a multifaceted Gucci contract after being “referenced” (but basically copied) on the runway. Christopher John Rogers debuted his first New York Fashion Week collection in September (everyone totally freaked; standing ovation), while Aurora James and Victor Glemaud conWith input from husband Kanye tinued to win shoppers’ hearts West and CEO mom Kris Jenner, (and their money) with elevated as well as an adolescence spent staples for all different style tribes. studying the rise of peers (as in, actual schoolmates) like Paris Runways finally had an influx of Hilton and Nicole Richie, she be- many models of color, too, incame the most famous person on cluding the Valentino campaign earth and an evangelist for con- stunner Adut Akech, Tennessee tour makeup, beige bodycon, cool girl Binx Walton, and Sports Perspex heels, “glass skin,” alter- Illustrated sweetheart Halima native fertility knowledge, restor- Aden, who made history as the ative justice, black lace leotards, magazine’s first-ever swimsuit and tiny Louis Vuitton purses. model in a hijab. And let’s not forget Lupita Nyong’o, Gabrielle Union, and Yara Shahidi, who scored campaigns for Miu Miu, W W W . V O G U E . C O M Rodarte, and Coach respectively.
13
image souce: wwww.pinterest.com 14
the 2020 Met Gala Theme Is ‘About Time’ This year’s camp-themed Met Gala delivered an endless stream of over-thetop red carpet moments (and several live outfit changes from Lady Gaga), but it’s officially time to look ahead to the 2020 event. The Metropolitan Museum of Art announced the theme of next year’s Costume Institute exhibit will be “About Time: Fashion and Duration.”
For a more specific image, Sally Porter’s 1992 film Orlando, based on Virginia Woolf’s timetraveling novel of the same name, served as the main inspiration for the 2020 theme. Starring Tilda Swinton, the movie’s fashion spanned from 18th-century Marie Antoinette-inspired style to 19th century dressing. In other words, prepare to see some grandiose, “let If you thought camp was them eat cake”-worthy confusing, you probably looks on next year’s have some questions Met Gala red carpet. about what exactly a “time” theme means. “Fashion is indelibly Inspired by Virginia connected to time, it not Woolf and 20th-century only reflects and represents French philosopher Henri the spirit of the times, Bergson, the exhibit will but it also changes and look back at the timeline develops with the times,” of women’s fashion from Andrew Bolton, the curator the last 150 years (dating of the Costume Institute, from 1870 to today) to told the New York Times. coincide with the Met’s 150th anniversary. Woolf Given the range of a 150will serve as the “ghost year timeline of fashion, it narrator” of the exhibit. may be one of the most HTTP://WWW.HARPERSBAZAAR.COM/
abstract and eclectic Met Gala red carpets ever— with celebrities being able to time-travel back through several centuries of fashion. Or, of course, they technically could opt for something that’s “timeless.” The co-chairs of the 2020 Met Gala are Meryl Streep, Emma Stone, Lin-Manuel Miranda, and Nicolas Ghesquiere of Louis Vuitton (the brand will serve as a sponsor for the event). Most excitingly, it will mark the first ever Met Gala attendance for Streep. The 2020 Met Gala will be held on May 4 at the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the exhibition will open to the public on May 7, 2020.
15
t h l eo o k
image souce: wwww.pinterest.com
16
IMAGE SOURCE: WWW.PINTEREST.COM
JARED LETO CONTINUES THE TREND OF MEN WEARING HEELS 17
IMAGE SOURCE: WWW.PINTEREST.COM
stay.
blazer, slouchy pants and pointy heeled boots were straight off the runway from Helmut Lang’s Spring 2018 collection.
From heeled boots to, yes, pumps, men in heels has been a rising trend amongst stylish celebrities including Harry Styles, Justin Bieber and Kanye West. And the daring style choice only seems to be gaining momentum. (After all, as the boundaries of menswear continue to shift and evolve, it’s only natural that the heel heights are getting higher, too). The latest celebrity to get some lift? Jared Leto.
Seeing how the collection was designed by Shayne Oliver—who often designs progressive and genderless collections, especially at his now-defunct label Hood by Air—it’s no surprise he’s beyond Leto’s latest risky look. But if anyone is going to pull it off with confidence, it’s Leto—after all, he’s also been known to wear Alessandro Michele’s flamboyant designs for Gucci with complete ease
Stepping out at the 2018 MusiCares Person of the Year event, which honored Fleetwood Mac, the stylish actor arrived in an all-white ensemble with pointy heels to match. His tailored
w
Sneakerheads,
The
men’s
brace
heel
is
yourselves:
here
to
w
w
.
v
o
g
u
e
.
c
o
m
/
18