Shoe Salon

DESIGNER CHAT JESSICA RICH

JESSICA RICH IS one of those rare examples of a fashion-influencer-turned-shoe-designer whose creations caught the attention of followers, celebrities and (eventually) the fashion media because of their originality—not just because of her notoriety. In short, the shoes have done the talking. Rich, who launched her eponymous label in 2017, started the conversation with her Transparent collection of stiletto heels featuring clear PVC uppers. The shoes were unique and versatile—the clear color easily paired with a range of outfits. In addition, they were affordably priced (SRP: $215-$250) compared to most designer labels. It wasn’t long before her followers, along with a legion of celebrities, such as Kylie Jenner, Kim Kardashian, Jennifer Lopez and Cardi B, sported her shoes. And while Rich’s stacked Rolodex—she’s a former publicist—helped with celebrity seeding, she actually credits her design inexperience for helping her introduce something fresh. “Because I didn’t want to embarrass myself by trying to compete with designers who knew how to design with different fabrics and materials, I had to think of something that had not been done before,” she says. Enter PVC, a styling cue from Kanye West, who had been dabbling in the material with his collections. “I jumped on a trend that he started and pushed the envelope with PVC stilettos,” Rich says. “It was something no one had ever seen before.”

That minimalist aesthetic has become Rich’s signature. “My shoes are simple, sexy and wearable,” she says, adding that originality is another key ingredient. “I never copy another designer. If I see something in the marketplace that I like, I make sure to change it completely into my own design. I like to create trends!”

For Rich’s latest collection, debuting this summer, that translates to a dependable palette. “I think red is a great statement you can never go wrong with,” she says. “I also always love using black and nude, because they go with everything.” Rich hints at some “new normal” styles to come as well. “The pandemic definitely gave me some new ideas that I can’t talk about yet,” she says. “It’s something they’ve been asking for that will make their lives a lot easier!”

In the meantime, Rich is busy with her new Los Angeles flagship in the Beverly Center. “My store is located in between some of the greatest luxury designers, including Versace, Burberry and YSL, which is very important for brand recognition,” she says. The designer believes brick-and-mortar is a key element for the label going forward—starting with five Nordstrom locations this March (in addition to Nordstrom.com). “Customer will now be able to shop the product in person, which is an elevated experience,” Rich says.

Aetrex

Alegria

Dearfoams

LUSH PLUSH

Serenity now! Slippers that pamper the tootsies.

Who is the Jessica Rich woman? She is confident, sexy and sophisticated. She’s looking for a statement shoe that it’s comfortable, trendy and affordable.

Where do you look for design inspira-

tion? My inspiration comes from what I know the general public responds well to and what they need at the moment. I’m also very celebrity-driven, so I make sure I offer shoes that are super sexy and trendy. But I also design for the everyday girl who wants to make a statement with the hottest new item.

What has been the hardest challenge

to getting your brand known? Getting respect from the media. It took me countless celebs for bigger media outlets to finally recognize my line. That comes down to me being an African-American from the United States because, if you notice, anyone from overseas that does anything in fashion gets praised more because they’re from a city that originates fashion, such as London or Paris. I’ll watch a new brand launch, with just one design, and suddenly they’re in 50 retailers and all over the internet because they’re an “international brand.”

Who are some designers you admire? Tom Ford is my favorite! He always pushes the envelope. He’s very daring and super sexy. My dream is to collab with him one day!

Is there a perfect shoe? Not to sound conceited but I would say my original Fancy stiletto. It was the first Cinderella pump on the market, and it was amazing because it goes with everything and it makes your foot look super sexy, especially if you have a great toes.

What was the best piece of design advice

you were ever given? Just start! Some people get scared to get out there and start a brand. If you want to design, just get a piece of paper and get going.

What do you love most about designing

shoes? I think shoes are the most important part of the outfit that really tie together an entire look, and what I love most is the simplicity of my designs that go with anything but can still make a statement. That’s my aesthetic, and it works.

continued from page 30

High Praise

Industry leaders sound off on Danny Wasserman’s retail acumen.

CLASS ACT: “Danny Wasserman is one of the most approachable retailers I know. He has incredible insight and operates with class. Visit his store and you’ll see professionalism from the floor set up to the phenomenal sales. His sales associates are well-dressed and professional—the men in neckties and the women stylish. All are very knowledgeable and helpful veterans of the industry who treat service as a priority. Shopping at Tip Top is like walking into your neighborhood store where they know your name. Everyone is treated like family.” —Robert Greenberg, CEO, Skechers

BRAIN TRUST: “Danny is an icon in this industry; a unique leader with a passion for product. I get a lot smarter after showing product to him. His immediate reaction to product is solid. He’s one of the most respected voices in the industry and, like his son Lester, he treats everyone well. —Matt Thibeau, head of independent sales, Ecco USA

THE GODFATHER: “Danny has no weaknesses. He knows his business cold, from style call-outs, emerging trends and inside intel to financial planning and being transparent. He’s not only a great partner, he’s a super intelligent one. He shares his knowledge and is generous with his time. Whenever I stop in, he always has a minute for me. Danny is one of the Great Ones. Personally, Danny has always been more of a father figure—he guides, suggests and is honest for my best interest. Showing shoes to him is like playing at Carnegie Hall. You better be buttoned up. He’s not only a Shoe Dog, he is the lead dog, the Don Corleone of shoes. —Tom Siano, Northeast sales manager, J-41 and Jambu

STEADY & TRUE: “Kanner and Tip Top have been partners for over 25 years and Danny is a man of integrity. He’s financially prudent, honors his commitments and is always generous with insightful advice. He’s tough but fair, and he’s also done a terrific job at mentoring the next generation. Hats off!” —Edward Kanner, CEO Kanner Group

THE NATURAL: “Danny has an amazing eye for product. With such a diverse consumer base, he knows what will sell. His input is invaluable. Then, it’s service. The number of places in New York where you can sit and be expertly fit is minimal, and this is what Tip Top provides. Danny is a true 21st century retailer but maintains the heart and soul of an old-school merchant, and that comes from his time spent on the floor. How many chain buyers spend any time on the floor—really watching, listening and speaking with consumers? This is how Danny lives. There’s no substitute for six to seven days a week in the store, which comes natural to him. All he shares is speaking on behalf of his clientele.” —David Kahan, CEO, Birkenstock Americas

ROCK SOLID: “Danny’s a very good and solid businessman, and the store has a great reputation. It’s in the right place, he owns the building and he’s got a nice online business that’s helped keep them alive, especially when everything was closed for months. You know pretty much what you get from him. There aren’t a lot of surprises. He doesn’t go out on a limb. He sees something selling, he does it, and he fills in constantly. —Steve Lax, CEO, Naot

LEADING BY EXAMPLE: “When I first started at Tip Top, he explained to me that while we didn’t open until 9:30 a.m., it was important that I arrive by 8 a.m. to get my work done prior to opening. I learned from a young age that retail meant working six days a week and plenty of seven-day weeks too. Also, establishing good relationships with key vendors is a must, and the ability to react to trends quickly to secure inventory was perhaps the most valuable lesson.” —Lester Wasserman, CEO and GM, Tip Top Shoes they were free.” It’s another in a long line of examples of Wasserman being the first to see the potential in something unique, functionable, comfortable, fashionable and new.

Recent diamonds in the making include Hoka One One and On Running. And even if Wasserman has slowed down his pursuit, he knows his son is picking up where he is leaving off. “He’s spot-on,” Wasserman says, citing the recent addition of Red Wing to Tip Top’s mix per his son’s recommendation. “He just knows if it’s good or if it’s garbage. And Margot has Tip Top Kids (located a couple of doors from the main store) under control.” Wasserman takes comfort in knowing the business is in great hands and is confident about its success for years to come. The stores have already weathered recessions, 9/11, competition in all formats and now a pandemic—which he considers the most difficult challenge to date—while its online channels continue to grow. But he’s also a firm believer that New York will roar back to life. When it does, people are going to want and need shoes—and Tip Top Shoes might be one of the few sit-and-fit stores still standing. “Not everyone will want to buy shoes on the internet,” he says. “We’re in it for the long haul. We just have to keep doing what we do best: selling shoes and figuring out what to buy and when to bring it in.”

Wasserman, 76, could retire—or come in three days a week, as his wife suggested. But he sees how hard his kids are working through this latest crisis and has decided to put that on hold. “I can’t leave them when they need me the most,” he says. In the meantime, he’ll keep looking for the next big brand and/or trend. It’s in his blood. “My father always said I was born in a shoe store, because my mother was pregnant with me while climbing ladders to stock shoes in our store in Germany,” Wasserman says. “I just enjoy the business so much—touching shoes, smelling the leather, the whole process. It’s a way of life.” •

THE PERFECT MATCH FOR FALL

FALL | WINTER 2021

STYLES DARLEEN & YOKU

Dear Danny, Congratulations for the very well-deserved Lifetime Achievement Award. Your leadership, vision and direction have defined what a successful retail environment should look like. We wish you many more years of health, happiness and continued success.