Height of Fame The Doctor Is In

Dr. Martens stays true to its heritage while keeping its brand top of mind.

A PENCHANT FOR remaining relevant and several recent macro trends have contributed to strong sales for Dr. Martens. Like other heritage brands, the brand has fared well through the pandemic as consumers gravitated toward trusted, durable brands and styles amid unprecedented uncertainty. And as workplaces reopen, dress codes are more relaxed, making Docs’ streetwear styles a versatile choice for the work week and the weekend. What’s more, the ongoing ’90s fashion revival has sparked interest in Dr. Martens, which was a staple of that decade’s grunge movement.

“Fashion is cyclical and what’s old is new again,” says Zak Stambor, senior analyst of retail and ecommerce at Insider Intelligence. “Dr. Martens has found success by staying true to its heritage while breathing new life into the brand so that it feels fresh.”

“Dr. Martens is super-important to our overall success as they help validate Rack Room Shoes as best-in-class when it comes to authentic and trend-right brands,” says Brian Burnett, GMM of the 500-plus store chain. “Docs speaks to emotion and nostalgia, and they’re built to last with comfort, quality, and an undeniable personality that’s all their own.” Burnett adds that the Docs customer continues to evolve and expand. “The customer ranges from teens to young adults with rebellious spirits to more fashion-oriented, where age nor gender defines them,” he says. “They’re certainly young at heart, including parents who are introducing the brand as part of the ‘Mommy and Me’ movement.”

Dr. Martens’ revenue in the U.S. rose 31 percent during April-September versus the prior year. Original styles, including the iconic 1460 boot, 1461 shoe and 2976 boot, accounted for 47 percent of the revenue for the period. Sandals were also strong, with a 43 percent uptick in revenue over the previous year. In addition, the brand capitalized on a platform trend, with a range of styles driving growth across the entire line.

Burnett cites the resurgence of ’90s fashions as reigniting interest in the brand’s heritage lace-up boots like the 1460. He says that moved quickly to Chelsea boots and, more recently, in platform styles. “They’ve done a tremendous job activating more consumers spanning those who shop the runways in Paris to the streets of New York to our family channel customers,” he says. “We’re incredibly fortunate about the brand’s success.”

Speaking of being incredibly fortunate, a student visiting Washington, D.C., made headlines last spring when her Dr. Martens boots might have saved her life in a lightning strike. (Tragically, three other people standing near her died.) The rubber soles just may have been the difference-maker. The anecdote added to the brand’s tough-as-nails mystique.

Another highlight of 2022: collabs, which included with the Metropolitan Museum of Art and Rick Owens. The former featured a collection that paid homage to the “36 Views of Mount Fuji” series by Japanese artist Katsushika Hokusai. The 1460 and 1918 Rick Owens platform styles marked the third collab with the designer. The boots feature tumbled leather, a heavy side zip, elongated tongue, unique lacing patterns, and two-inch quad retro soles. —B.S.