ALPine suMMer

A MAN FOR ALL SEASONS

Alpine summer huts are situated in some of the most spectacular locations and really open up Austria’s Alpine world to visitors, providing a beautifully authentic experience in a modern way without sacrifi cing the environment. Each autumn the Almsommer Hütte awards are decided, with strict criteria, and hill farmer Thomas Mayr at the Steinalm took the top award in 2010

Tom Mayr relaxes in front of his award-winning summer hut >

Above, left, rustic decoration at the Steinalm alpine farm; above centre, a typical farm meal and above right, the unusual karst rock formations found on the journey to and from the hut It has to be one of the nicest jobs in the world. Remote, maybe, though as proprietor of the Steinalm alpine farm at Saalfelden, at 1,268m up in the mountains, Tom Mayr does find the world takes the trouble to come to him, even though it’s a hike of nearly an hour (much more if you’re stopping to enjoy the scenery and take pictures). One minute you’re setting off by car from the bustle of Salzburg, negotiating a bit of traffic. and an hour and some 65km later you’re in pure nature.

A typically hot, sunny, July afternoon, you leave your vehicle in the small parking area by the painted wooden

Steinalm sign, swap city shoes for hiking footwear, smear suncream and pick up a bottle of water and then head up through the forest to the Steinernes Meer.

The Steinernes Meer is a high karst plateau in the

Northern Limestone Alps – the name means Stony or Rocky

Sea, given that the plateau is rocky and flat, and the site belongs partly to Bavaria and partly to Salzburg, on the

Austrian side forming part of the Limestone Alps Nature

Reserve. Karst is a distinctive topography in which the landscape is largely shaped by the dissolving action of water on carbonate bedrock, in this case limestone, over many thousands of years and leaves a landscape with unusual features above and below ground, with caves (around 800 have been identified), sinkholes, vertical shafts and disappearing streams and springs. The journey down offers an alternative path for more experienced walkers, slightly hair-raising in places, but with some wonderful examples of the karst rock formations. There’s also the mysteriouslooking 14th century Schloss Lichtenberg,

The hike to Steinalm begins in the district of Bürgerau and takes visitors along a nature trail through the forest. Walking at a Nordic pace with poles, you can probably do it in 45 minutes. But why would you, when there are gorgeous butterflies to examine, pretty wild flowers to marvel at, illustrated information boards telling you about the creatures you’re likely to encounter – such as the strikingly coloured Eurasian jay (Garrulus glandarius) or Paris quadrifolia, the typically limestone-based woodland plant romantically nicknamed ‘Lover’s Knot’?

The idyllic location, with its breathtaking views, constantly inspires Mayr, who exemplifies the new era of enthusiasts who are passionate about mixing the traditional with the modern and making a business that doesn’t damage nature but works with the environment. He is a man who appears at one with his environment, and it is hard to imagine him in an office in front of a computer.

Born in Saalfelden at the dawn of the 1970s, he loves the mountains, and in winter he offers ski touring, cross-country skiing and free riding and also mountain guiding trips, mountain bike and rafting instruction in the summer. He is also a passionate free skier.

He lives at the hut from May to October and in summer,

as well as caring for the cows and the daily running of the mountain hut for the increasing numbers of thirsty and hungry guests, along with a couple of staff, he also finds time to act as an alpine guide. The hut is closed in winter, as it is impossible to get up there in the snow.

When Mayr took over eight years ago the hut – which would once have been used for milking the cows – was very run-down. Built in 1869, the date still visible on the roof, the wooden building was originally owned by the church and any food and materials needed had to be laboriously carried up the narrow path by beasts of burden, until 1990 and the installation of a small cable car. A cooperative of 15 local farmers took over the hut in the 1960s and it was used as an Alpine farm with summer cattle. Immediately prior to Mayr’s arrival it had a brief incarnation as a mountain pizza hut.

Mayr totally renovated it, documenting the work in a photo album which also includes some stunning photography of the scenery. No mean feat, bearing in mind everything had to be brought up and brought down the mountain. He put in new water pipes, a new kitchen and guest room. There are no overnight facilities for guests – the farm is small and the guest room is for sitting in. It’s very cosy – his talents include professionally building stone fireplaces. And there’s a great, simple menu showing off the fresh produce of the area such as meats, cheeses, breads and vegetables. His aim: ‘I try to come back to the roots, to give people their regional food and products.’

The Steinalm is now extremely popular, with weekends understandably busiest. May and June, August and September are popular with local and Austrian visitors, who find the sunny but cooler days perfect for walking. It’s the hotter days of July, though, which locals find too much, but when we heat-starved Brits increasingly love to come: there can be few experiences to match a companionable hike with the sun beating down in a strong blue sky, the only sounds the buzzing of insects, trickling of streams and the occasional call of a bird high above in the trees, and the sparkling golds and greens of the flowers and leaves and earthy smell of the damp ground.

The farm, says Tom, is completely organic. As well as the cows, the famous Pinzgauers, there are chickens, a cockerel, a goat, cat and a horse. The bread and jam are home-made and he buys cheese from farmers around the area. It’s been hard work, but he enjoys the life. ‘It’s a peaceful, nice place and there’s good contact with people – they are relaxed when they come up here,’ he points out.

Somewhat incongruously, the Steinalm is also one of the venues each year for the International Saalfelden Jazz Festival at the close of August (you can check it out online, if you don’t believe it), part of the ‘Alm Concerts’ programme combining contemporary jazz and pristine mountain scenery. What a venue! ■ www.steinalm.at, www.saalfelden-leogang.at Another highly recommended former award-winner is the Königsbergalm at Dienten, again an authentic family-run mountain hut that has been renovated, is easy to reach, with beautiful mountain views and a terrace where visitors can enjoy food from the pastures and farm products. Königsbergalm, Sonnberg 1, A-5652 Dienten am Hochkönig. Tel/Fax: +43 (0) 6461 450, www.hochkoenig.at

Make a note!

There are about 150 certified Alpine summer huts in SalzburgerLand hill country and they must meet specific criteria based on factors such as having animals grazing close by or producing regional specialities of food, for example. Also that the venue meets strict safety and hygiene standards. A recent move has been for them to specialise according to different types of guests: Pram Huts, which are easy to reach via forest paths, even if you’re pushing a buggy; Kids’ huts with petting zoos and play equipment of natural materials, and perhaps a water feature; Mountain Bike Huts reachable by designated mountain bike trails; and Art and Culture Huts, which host events linked to literature, music, theatre or the visual arts.

www. almsommer. com

THE LOVELIEST FARMS

There is no better way to experience the true rhythms of country life in the Alps than spending time on a working farm…

The besT meal of The day is said to be breakfast. What would be a fantasy breakfast, to set you up for a day in the mountains with healthy air, sun in your hair and perhaps a walk, a swim and relaxing on a deck chair? The taste of fresh milk, warm homebaked bread spread with newly-made butter or jam, eggs however-you-likethem from the henhouse only a few paces away, tasty bacon that hasn’t been vacuum-packed, herby cream cheese..? The saying ‘Breakfast like a king...’ couldn’t be more apt for the healthy feasts provided for guests at farms up and down the province of SalzburgerLand. Yes, you can have a vacation on a working farm in the UK, but the farm holiday experience is down to a fine art in Austria, honed over decades to give visitors not just a healthy break in glorious scenery, but the chance to sample life in an environment far removed from noise, cars, pollution and stress. And for children it’s a traditional experience with the joys of farm animals, collecting eggs, riding a tractor and simply spending sunny days running free in a safe, beautiful environment. Parents can relax whatever the weather – the occasional rainy day simply provides an opportunity to learn to make bread or join the children to watch how butter and cheese are made at somewhere such as the Bambichl farm in the Lake Fuschl region. Other farms specialise in organics, health and herbs.

There are 300 Farm Holidays members in SalzburgerLand, offering 700 beds, all of a certified standard. Ecological and fair-pricing standards make this a fantastic-value, fun way of holidaying responsibly and a perfect example of ‘green tourism’.

Putting the goodness back into lives and bodies is taken so seriously here that there are stringent standards to ensure farm holidays don’t disappoint.

They’re not pretend farms, but real people’s working homes and livelihoods. Visitors can enjoy watching what goes on, whether it’s gazing on as the farmer sows his fields or as the farmer’s wife tends to the vegetables. You’re more than welcome up onto the tractor, or to help with the harvest. By taking part, you get to feel part of the whole rhythm of life, but it’s entirely up to you.

Some farms are particularly good for guests with a special interest or hobby, like the owners – so there are farms geared to cycling holidays (Ortnergut Farm, Eben im Pongau), others with stables and on-site riding instructors (Hallmooshof Riding Farm in Filzmoos). Travelling with babies and children, especially a combination of both, can be so tiring that many parents need a holiday once they’re home. And there’s nothing worse than arriving at your destination to find you’ve forgotten the bottle-warmer, or that there aren’t enough high chairs, or the place simply isn’t properly childfriendly. A great many Farm Holidays venues are especially geared to babies and small children – not just with the basics, but providing thoughtful extras such as prettily-painted child-pleasing pine furniture, or giant trampolines (with safety nets, of course). Try the Baby & Children Hotel Scharrerhof, near Hollersbach.

They’re divided into two, three and four-flower categories, according to their amenities and services, and there’s a free, comprehensive brochure available with photographs and details of all the venues. ■ www.salzburg.farmholidays.com

+43 (0) 662 870 571-341

Family Summer in SalzburgerLand

Zell am See-Kaprun

HigH roller

This is one of the favourite areas for Brits coming to SalzburgerLand in summer. It has everything from the beautiful blue water of Lake Zell to the summer snow on the high glacier. All the traditional holiday sports such as hiking, sailing, golf and biking are first class and there are new twists such as the Maisiflitzer – an alpine rollercoaster for you to whizz down the mountain on, and the recently opened Tauern Spa (see page 14). Peakworld 3000 opened in 2011 and has a stunning panorama platform and a cinema and gallery inside the mountain. The area has more than 700 places to stay from five-star hotels to private farms. Hang-gliding and paragliding are popular around the peaks of Schmittenhöle (2,000m) and Kitzsteinhorn (3,203m) – which is also the area for the only summer skiing in SalzburgerLand. ■ www.zellamsee-kaprun.com

Wagrain-Kleinarl

outstanding family resort

A stunning venue for a family summer holiday, with pretty flower-bedecked family homes (not to mention garden gnomes!) and picturesque church set amid a beautiful backdrop, this compact town is small enough to walk everywhere but big enough to offer plenty for families. There’s the spacious all-weather waterpark, with indoor pool with currents, sauna, mother and baby area, huge water slide with light, sound and video effects, a whitewater canal and a turbo slide with top speeds of up to 40km an hour, as well as a restaurant. New are the tennis courts which are open to guests at most hotels, the challenge of the bike park, and some great places to eat. Take the Flying Mozart cable car up the mountain for some great views and then have fun in the childsplay construction site at the top, with junior-sized hard hats. Oversized brightly-coloured plastic armchairs and beanbags make for great sun-lounging for parents. There’s also a special mountain map of children’s attractions, with cooking courses on certain days. Add in good value in the all-inclusive 7-day Wagrain card, from the tourist office, which includes visits to a variety of attractions. ■ www.wagrain-kleinarl.info

Hochkönig

mountain magic

Hochkönig or High King is the apt name for the highest mountain in the Berchtesgaden Alps in SalzburgerLand (2,941m), and the three picturesque family-friendly villages around it are as bustling with activity in summer as in the snowy season. From guided hikes to mountaineering tours with Alpine guides, from local kids’ events to splashing about the pool, a game of tennis and a chance to try your hand at golf, rafting and canyoning, there’s lots on offer. Maria Alm, the largest, with the Steinernes Meer completing the backdrop, also claims the highest church tower in the region at 76m. Gorgeous little Dienten is famous for its flower decorations and Mühlbach is strong on its heritage and folk traditions – Harvest Festival is a huge celebration. ■ www.hoechkoenig.at

Lake District, Fuschl

Water fun summer

The jewel in the Salzburg region’s Lake District has to be Lake Fuschl, whose clear, ultra-clean waters and pretty inlets and bays offer ideal swimming and watersports. The main, gently-sloping shingle beach is perfect for families with children, while the Lake Fuschl public lido, Beach Club Fuschlseebad, is not far away and a huge attraction since a major renovation in 2008. There’s a natural beach with lawn and trees, a sandy bay for chidren, giant water slide, children’s pool and a lap pool. Add volleyball courts, a climbing tower, mini golf, tennis courts, beauty therapy and saunas, equipment rental (windsurfing, rowing boats, roller skates) and restaurant, and it may be a struggle to fit in that must-do Salzburg visit. There’s also Hintersee lake. ■ www.fuschlseeregion.com

Flachau

teen HigH spirits

Adventures and outdoor fun are bywords for summer season in the Flachau mountains, with a huge range of activities which have the emphasis on the ‘active’ – action pursuits such as zorbing, where you roll around in a giant ball, or potholing, high-wire climbing, and – newest and possibly most exciting – the first Alpine rollercoaster in SalzburgerLand. Open all year round, it’s basically a 1,080m two-seater toboggan run on rails which gathers speed to about 40km per hour through the scenic natural surroundings down to the valley, dropping a total of 123m from start to finish. Highlights are the built-in waves, jumps and loops, and at its highest point you’ll be 11m above the ground. Flachau also hosts a wide range of summer events and festivals, including several with live music. Your vacation and activities can be fully planned on the website of the Flachau tourist board. ■ www.flachau.com

Radstadt

living history

This medieval town with its historic walls and towers, between Dachstein massif and the Tauern mountains, is perfectly placed both as a summer base for visits and somewhere with plenty going on – a big attraction is the large heated swimming pool on the hillside with a 48m-long water slide, with separate pools for smaller children and sunbathing areas. If you walk or take the scenic drive up to the top of the 1,800m-high Rossbrand, you can see more than 150 alpine summits. Easy excursions are to Liechtenstein Gorge, the great ice caves and the Dachstein glacier, and there’s no shortage of activities in Radstadt with car rallies, children’s festivals, the delicious Dumpling Fest and, in early September, here as elsewhere the golden days of the Harvest Festival with its many traditions and a highly regarded crafts market. ■ www.radstadt.com

Saalbach-Hinterglemm

roped in for adventure

These two ski resorts at either end of the Glemm Valley share a major attraction in summer – the Hochseil Park high-ropes course, at 1,300m above sea level, which offers six separate stages depending on how challenged family members are feeling. You can get an idea of what it’s like on YouTube with Matt Carroll’s Hidden Austria (Episode 3), where outdoors sports journalist and film-maker Matt gives it a go. It is also a great area for hiking, with magnificent views along the valley and plenty of mountain huts for refreshments. Not far from the high ropes is a small children’s park with farm animals, and the Devil’s Water (Teufelswasser) theme with pools for splashing, a Kneipp hydrotherapy pool for the grown-ups (knee-deep, freezing, good for the circulation), a fish pond, rock pools, grotto and it’s all free. There’s also the main open-air pool in Saalbach

Radstadt

Hinterglemm, renovated a few years ago. Harvest festival as usual is a great highlight, and an opportunity to see the manufacture of arts and crafts such as felt-slipper making. There’s a whole other level of vacation for sporty adults who feel the high ropes aren’t enough of a challenge – why not tackle the ‘Seven Summits of Saalbach Hinterglemm’ (see page 17), new from summer 2011 – it’s a hiking tour for those who are in good physical condition, sure-footed and experienced mountain hikers and takes in almost 24km of rugged alpine track and ascents over the highest summits of the Glemmtal, at 1,413m in altitude. ■ www.saalbach.com

Sankt Johann-Alpendorf Shopping, spectacular sights and all things spooky

the perfect summer-holiday destination for absolutely everyone. The shopper in the family gets a smart town (capital of the Pongau district) with good shopping-centre credentials. A major attraction for even the most ardent shopper is the nearby legendary Liechtensteinklamm (see page 34), the longest and deepest (800m) accessible white-water gorge in the Alps. Perfect for even the most blasé teenager and fast-growing pre-teen, who will probably be intrigued by the new Geisterberg/ Spooky Mountain adventure park with its ghost train and spooky hiking trails – the opening ties in with the Alpendorf cable car times.

There are all kinds of children’s programmes and the ‘big playground’ is a great meeting point for visiting younger children, with the mini-train, a big slide, a large jumping mat, petting zoo, boats, karts, a climbing wall, skating…

At 800m above sea level, it’s green and pretty hill country, with walking, hiking through the hills, meadows and mountains of Hohe Tauern national park, golfing, swimming, and sightseeing in St Johann, with its stunning Pongauer Dom church. www.sanktjohann.com

there are all kinds of summer programmes for children and families at the resorts and there are various hotel packages and offers such as the Joker Card which make entry to attractions free or at reduced prices. Contact the tourist office, check online or with your hotel before you go. There’s also the Family SalzburgerLand card which offers benefits and discounts on attractions and travel and is also for school and youth groups.

■ www.salzburgerlandcard.com