You’re Cordially Invited
By Joe TetroIn this month's issue of TableScape magazine, we discuss one of my all-time favorite foods.
See, pizza is not just a meal for me and my family. It’s an experience, one that we look forward to all week.
Growing up, mom had a part-time job and when Dad picked her up on Friday evening, he also picked up the pizza. My siblings and I would prepare the family room with snack trays and drinks, anticipating those two magical pies' Dad would carry in.
Now everybody has their favorite pizza, favorite style, favorite toppings, and every one of those favorites is exactly right for you. I read or watch dozens of pizza reviews each week and marvel at the comments made by self-appointed connoisseurs that have no trouble telling you why everything you love about your favorite pie is wrong
So whether it’s New Haven, Detroit, or New York style, your pie is your pie. In this month's issue, we give equal voice to all styles, even that hybrid from Chicago known as Deep Dish
So, sit back and enjoy as we share some great recipes, teach you a few things about the history of pizza and even discuss the science that got you addicted in the first place. Because as our good friend Julia child once said:“ People Who Love to Eat Are Always the Best People.”
Pizza
What I thought was Love turned out to be Chemistry
By J AnthonyWhen this assignment came across my desk, I looked skyward and said thank you, Lord. I envisioned copious amounts of research on the company expense account and hundreds of slices lined up just begging for my approval. What I found was something a little more primal and a little less exotic.
There’s a scientific reason so many of us are drawn to Apizza as my grandfather called it. Humans are drawn to foods that are fatty, sweet, rich, and complex. Pizza has all of these components. The cheese is fatty, meat toppings tend to be rich, and the sauce is sweet.
Pizza toppings are also packed with a compound called glutamate, which can be found in the tomatoes, cheese, pepperoni, and sausage. When glutamate hits our tongues, it tells our brains to get excited and to crave more of it. This compound actually causes our mouths to water, anticipating the next bite. Then there are the combinations of ingredients. Cheese and tomato sauce are a perfect pairing. On their own, they taste pretty good. But according to culinary scientists, they contain flavor compounds that taste even better when eaten together.
Another interesting quality, the ingredients brown while cooking. Foods turn brown and crispy when we cook them because of two chemical reactions. The first is called caramelization, which happens when the sugars in a food become brown. Most foods contain at least some sugar; once foods are between 230 degrees and 320 degrees, their sugars begin to turn brown. Caramel is made from several thousand compounds, making it one of the most complex food products. On pizza, ingredients such as onions and tomatoes become caramelized during baking, making them rich, sweet and flavorful. That brown and crispy crust is also a result of caramelization.
While the meat and cheese on your pizza also get brown, this is due to a different process called the “Maillard reaction,” which is named after French chemist Louis-Camille Maillard.
The Maillard reaction occurs when the amino acids in high-protein foods such as cheese and pepperoni react with the sugars in those foods when heated. Pepperoni that becomes crispy with curled edges, and cheese that browns and bubbles, are examples of the Maillard reaction.
So, while my lifelong love affair with the pizza pie seemed pure and of the heart and taste buds, I’ve learned that it’s also primal. It has a lot to do with chemicals and our brains' reaction to them. While I used this assignment as an excuse to sample my way across the Gulf Coast, I also learned that this pizza thing I’ve got is bigger than love. And that’s a pretty big thing. With bread, cheese, and tomato sauce as its base, pizza might seem like simple food. But as we clearly learned, there is a lot more at play here than attraction.
Pizza Dough
INGREDIENTS
2-2 ⅓ cups all-purpose flour OR bread flour divided
1 packet instant yeast (2 ¼ teaspoon)
1 ½ teaspoons sugar
¾ teaspoon salt
⅛-¼ teaspoon garlic powder and/or dried basil
leavesoptional
2 Tablespoons olive oil + additional
¾ cup warm water
Pizza Dough
DIRECTIONS
Combine 1 cup of flour, instant yeast, sugar, and salt in a large bowl. If desired, add garlic powder and dried basil at this point as well. Add olive oil and warm water and use a wooden spoon to stir well very well. Gradually add another 1 cup of flour. Add any additional flour as needed, stirring until the dough is forming into a cohesive, elastic ball and is beginning to pull away from the sides of the bowl. The dough will still be slightly sticky but still should be manageable with your hands.
Drizzle a separate, large, clean bowl generously with olive oil and use a pastry brush to brush up the sides of the bowl.
Lightly dust your hands with flour and form your pizza dough into a round ball and transfer to your olive oil-brushed bowl. Use your hands to roll the pizza dough along the inside of the bowl until it is coated in olive oil, then cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and place it in a warm place. Allow dough to rise for 30 minutes or until doubled in size. If you intend to bake this dough into a pizza, I also recommend preheating your oven to 425F at this point so that it will have reached temperature once your pizza is ready to bake. Once the dough has risen, use your hands to gently deflate it and transfer to a lightly floured surface and knead briefly until smooth (about 3-5 times).
Use either your hands or a rolling pin to work the dough into 12" circle. Transfer dough to a parchment paper lined pizza pan and either pinch the edges or fold them over to form a crust.
Drizzle additional olive oil (about a Tablespoon) over the top of the pizza and use your pastry brush to brush the entire surface of the pizza (including the crust) with olive oil.
Use a fork to poke holes all over the center of the pizza to keep the dough from bubbling up in the oven.
Add desired toppings and bake in a 425F preheated oven for 13-15 minutes or until toppings are golden brown. Slice and serve.
Pizza
ATastyHistory
By Allison MarlowTurns out, pizza has been the food of choice for a fast and easy meal for centuries.
Pizza began as flatbread on the tables of Ancient Egypt, Rome, and Greece. By the 1700s, the Greek settlement in Naples had morphed into a thriving city and pizza was their go-to meal after a busy day at work.
Sound familiar?
According to www.History.com, pizzas were crafted from flatbread and toppings such as cheese, oil, anchovies and garlic, sold by street vendors. When tomatoes landed in Europe in 1522, brought over from the New World, they too landed on top of the pizza. Not because they were tasty and wonderful. Quite the opposite.
Europeans were suspect of the smooth, round fruit. Rumors abound that the tomato was poisonous.
So, they quickly ended up on concoctions prepared by the poorest of the city, thus creating the cheese, spice, tomato trifecta that is the staple of a perfect pizza today. It was quick, cheap and easy food. It was also looked down upon by the upper echelons of society.
Enter, Queen Margherita.
The queen visited the city in 1889, several years after the nation unified as a single entity, combining small independent settlements such as Naples. Bored with her fancy tables full of cuisine specially prepped for a royal palate, the queen demanded the local fare: pizza. There’s no evidence, but it’s certain her courtiers were aghast. The queen must have persisted, as queens tend to do. Was there a servant in the corner, snickering? Surely, there must have been. For he knew that after that first bite, Queen Margherita would be a believer. And she was. So much so, the story goes, that the entire world still dines on her favorite variety, the pizza Margherita, topped with soft white cheese, red tomatoes, and green basil.
The flip side of that fairy tale, however, is the owner of Pizzeria Brandi, whose 1880s kitchen is still tossing pizzas today. He was the chap summoned to bring the queen her pizza. Some historians say it never happened. Instead, the pizza maker and marketing genius, was petitioning the government at the time to give him permission to name his restaurant “Pizzeria della Regina d’Italia” or Pizzeria of the Queen of Italy. It would help quite a bit if the public thought royalty ate his pizza, wouldn’t it? Hence, his questionable introduction to the queen.
Meanwhile, across the Atlantic, immigrants were crafting their pizzas in kitchens in New York, Boston, Chicago, and other American cities. The first pizzeria opened in Manhattan in 1905 and is still in operation today, though it has changed locations. By World War II, pizza ceased to be an ethnic treat served in Italian kitchens and skyrocketed to the center of the American food pyramid. In the 1950s, pizza became more ingrained in American society through its glamorous connections. It was featured in episodes of popular television shows like “I Love Lucy” and the “Honeymooners.” When Dean Martin crooned about the moon lighting the sky like a big pizza pie, that’s not just amore, that’s big bucks. The star power pushing pizza to the top of every menu combined with an increase in families’ disposal income after the war resulted in the public wanting more pizza. According to TJ’s Take & Bake Pizza history, the first frozen pizza was introduced in 1957 by the Celentano Bros.
By this time cars were in most driveways meaning it was easier to deliver hot food. After a long day at work, with hungry kids, who do you think they called?
Pizza Hut opened in 1958. Little Caesars in 1959 and Dominic’s (later renamed Domino’s) in 1960.
As the pizza’s dominance as the go-to meal for American families grew, so did America’s need to personalize it. Restaurants began competing for business by topping the simple recipes with previously unimaginable combinations. And yeah, pineapple is pretty good on pizza, but that didn’t happen in Hawaii. According to Time magazine, in 1962 a chef in Canada added the fruit to pizzas he served at his Ontario-based restaurant to attract customers. It was a hit.
Today, pizza is a worldwide sensation. It became uniquely American and spread globally, including right back to Naples, where it was born. Experts put the number of pizzas served each year globally at 5 billion. The country that consumes the most pie is not, in fact, America. Experts say Norway consumes the most pizza with most individuals there eating 11 pounds (ca. 5 kg) of it annually. And just like those first pizza crafters, and even the queen herself, maybe, pizza is adored for what pizza has always been quick, easy and delicious. That’s amore.
Pizza Sauce
INGREDIENTS
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
¼ cup minced or grated yellow onion
1 tablespoon minced or grated garlic (3 cloves)
⅛ teaspoon crushed red pepper, plus more to taste
¼ cup tomato paste
1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes
1 teaspoon dried oregano or Italian seasoning
1 teaspoon granulated sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
Black pepper
DIRECTIONS
Step 1
Heat the olive oil in a medium saucepan set over medium-low. Add the onion, garlic and red pepper and cook, stirring often, until tender but not browned, 3 to 5 minutes.
Step 2
Stir in the tomato paste and cook, stirring often, until the paste darkens and colors the oil in the pan, about 1 minute. Add the crushed tomatoes, oregano, sugar, salt and black pepper to taste. Bring to a simmer over medium-high. Reduce the heat to low, cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is slightly thickened, about 15 minutes. Taste and adjust seasonings, if necessary, and cool before using.
Deep Dish Pizza Chicago Style
INGREDIENTS FOR THE CRUST
1 1/4 teaspoon instant dry yeast
1 teaspon sugar
1/2 cup (120 ml) lukewarm water
2 cups (240g) all-purpose flour
1 1/2 Tablespoon yellow corn meal
3/4 teaspoon salt
2 Tablespoons (30g) butter, melted and slightly cold
1 Tablespoon canola oil
1 Tablespoon olive oil (for greasing the bowl only)
INGREDIENTS FOR THE SAUCE
2 Tablespoons olive oil
1 small onion, grated or minced
1 Tablespoon dried oregano
1/2 Tablespoon crushed red pepper flakes (optional)
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 can (28 oz/793g) crushed tomatoes with basil
2 teaspoons tomato paste
INGREDIENTS FOR THE FILLING
6 oz (170g) mozzarella cheese, sliced
2 Italian sausages, sliced (optional)
2–3 Tablespoons (30-45g) parmesan cheese
Deep Dish Pizza Chicago Style
DIRECTIONS FOR THE CRUST
1. Bring the dough to a floured surface and knead until it forms a smooth ball.
3.
In a small bowl, combine the active dry yeast, sugar, and lukewarm water together and let sit for one minute. In a large mixing bowl, combine the flour, cornmeal, and salt. Add the yeast mixture, melted butter and canola oil into the dry ingredients and stir until dough forms.
2. Move the dough to large bowl drizzled with olive oil. Coat the dough in oil and cover and let rest for 1 hour.
DIRECTIONS FOR ASSEMBLING
2.
Preheat your oven to 425°F (215°C). 1. Remove the dough and bring it onto a floured surface. Roll it out into a 12inch (30 cm) circle. You want to stretch it out as much as you can to make a large circle. The dough needs to be stretched out enough to cover the bottom and sides of the baking pan.
3.
Using a rolling pin as a guide, place over a 9×2-inch (23×5 cm) deep dish cake pan or cast-iron skillet. Using your fingers, press the dough into the cake pan. Make sure it is nice and tight fitting inside the pan. Trim any excess of dough off the edges with a small knife. Brush the top edges of the dough with a little olive oil, which gives the crust a beautiful sheen.Fill the pizza with a first layer of mozzarella cheese, a second layer with the slices of Italian sausage if using, and a third layer of tomato sauce on top. Sprinkle with grated parmesan cheese on top. Bake for 20-30 minutes, or until the crust is golden brown and the filling is set. To prevent the edges from burning, cover with foil after 15 minutes baking.
Book Nook
withPamelaBrown
TheHeirloomedKitchen PreservingFamilyRecipes
Heirloom, made-from-scratch recipes featuring fresh, local ingredients create the perfect combination for Ashley Schoenith. “My mom always had a great garden in our backyard. I wouldn’t say farm-to-table was a term or concept when I was young as much as it is today but the resourcefulness and green thumb of our family kept us eating pretty fresh and homemade,” said Ashley, author of The Heirloomed Kitchen and lifestyle designer of the brand Heirloomed that offers a curated collection of timeless textiles and goods.
A self-proclaimed old soul, Ashley is on a mission to keep her handed-down family recipes and heirlooms around for future generations. Her cookbook shares the legacy of treasured recipes from her greatgrandmother (Nana) and grandmother. “I love to recreate recipes from my stack of old family recipe cards that was passed down to me, ” she said. “I think a lot of folks have a fondness for certain recipes and foods because of memories they had with them when they were young. There’s something special about taking someone back to that place in their mind through a recipe.”
The Heirloomed Kitchen features 100-plus recipes for breakfasts, appetizers, soups, salads, main dishes, and dessertsalong with memories of when she learned to cook using old-school techniques with tried-and-true kitchen tools handed-down from her grandparents and other family members. Flaky Buttermilk Biscuits, Chicken and Dumplings, Cornmeal-Fried Okra, and Back Porch Sun Tea take you home to the south. Also, the book includes dishes for holiday gatherings, classic drinks, and a section on kitchen essentials and cooking basics. Nostalgic-style photographs of heirloom cookware, serving vessels, and utensils, and some of Ashley’s vintage pieces, highlight the gentility of Southern hospitality.
Ashely forges a connection to her community as she sources local ingredients and supports local businesses. “We’re lucky to have a wonderful Farmer’s Market in our neighborhood and I generally tend a spring garden at our house. That nurturing and concept of using what’s fresh and what’s available is historically how people ate and how new recipes were developed,” she said. You can do that with Ashley’s Weeknight Veggie Pasta.
“With basic kitchen skills, it allows you more freedom and ability to be more adventurous with switching things up. ”
Born and raised in Florida and now living in Atlanta, Georgia, Ashley grew up learning the basic skills of the kitchen alongside multiple generations.
“My passion lies in the art of made-from-scratch cooking and baking,” said Ashley whose book takes readers back to her grandmother’s kitchen with enticing aromas and made-from-scratch meals. “My stepmom grew up in Kentucky and taught me a lot about Southern cooking. Growing up in the South, there’s a lot of regionality and seasonality of ingredients that heavily influences many of the recipes, as well as holidays and traditions. I love preserving our heritage and celebrating the long-standing roots we have with the Southern region. Much has changed but much remains the same as I remember it from when I was young. I want that same experience for my own children,” added Ashley, a mother of three. Ashley encourages others to capture beloved family recipes in the person ’ s own handwriting. “Spend time in the kitchen with them making it until you perfect it. If they’re not preserved, archived, and learned for another generation then they’ll be forgotten forever,” she said, emphasizing the importance of sharing meals and making memories together in the kitchen.
“Gathering with family is at the heart of it all. Much like a curated and collected home, I love being able to share a story with my family or my guests when serving a dish that gives the recipe a deeper meaning and importance.”
Weeknight Veggie Pasta
SERVES
8
INGREDIENTS
1 (16-ounce) package angel hair pasta
1 pound fresh asparagus, trimmed
3 handfuls sugar snap peas, trimmed