Viva México!

Ignacio Maza’s insider guide to Mexico City celebrates an urban escape that is buzzing with cultural front-runners and plenty of posh retreats.

The vibrant Azul Histórico.

If Mexico City has been on your travel radar, you’re onto something. As a must-see of the Americas, this enormous and sophisticated urban hub will expand most any traveler’s horizons. Herewith, insider advice to a city defined by history, fine dining, shopping, and the arts.

DON’T MISS

To best understand Mexico City, start at the Zócalo, or Constitution Square, located in the heart of the downtown historic district. Visit the National Palace, home to Mexico’s Presidential offices and witness beautiful murals by Diego Rivera, one of Mexico’s premier 20th-century artists. Other major downtown sites include the enormous Metropolitan Cathedral, built in the 1500s, and Templo Mayor, a massive Aztec temple discovered in the 1970s. The historic district is currently experiencing a renaissance, with new shops, restaurants, and the hip Downtown Mexico—a Design Hotel that celebrates its historic architecture. Plan to spend a morning exploring the Castillo de Chapultepec, found within the city’s largest park of the same name.

ARTS + CULTURE

With more than 100 museums in Mexico City, culture buffs will find plenty of inspiration. In my opinion, the best (and largest) is the Museo Nacional de Antropología, which houses ancient archaeological treasures from Mexico’s varied pre-Columbian cultures. Marvel at the famous Aztec Sunstone, a masterpiece of native American art, as well as the sarcophagus and treasures of Lord Pacal, buried in a Mayan pyramid in Palenque and discovered in the 1950s. It’s every bit as impressive as Tutankhamun’s tomb in ancient Egypt. Additionally, the ultra-modern Museo Soumaya debuted in 2011 and houses more than 60,000 works of art— definitely worth a half- or full-day visit. Frida Kahlo fans should visit Coyoacán and her former home, named Casa Azul, or Blue House. Now a museum, it’s near the studio of her husband and artist Diego Rivera. Another museum highlight is the Museo de Dolores Olmedo, which features Diego Rivera masterpieces. Design enthusiasts must see the master works of Luis Barragán, Mexico’s most revered 20 th -century architect and the first Latin American to win the coveted Pritzker Prize, the highest honor in architecture. To truly appreciate his work, visit his home, Casa Studio (by appointment only).

Museo Soumaya houses more than 60,000 works of art.

Zócalo Square, in the heart of the historic downtown district.

Author Ignacio Maza at the Teotihuacán Pyramids.

The chic W Mexico City.

TASTE OF MEXICO

Mexico City’s vibrant and sophisticated dining scene will satisfy discerning gourmands. Topping an impressive list of award-winning restaurants are Pujol and Quintonil, both named to The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. They serve new Mexican cuisine and are always packed, so advance reservations are a must. Taberna del León is one of the most enticing seafood restaurants, and for travelers seeking traditional Mexican menus, try Azul Histórico (downtown), or Hosteria de Santo Domingo, one of Mexico City’s oldest restaurants. The finest margaritas and mariachis are found at Villa Maria restaurant, and Limosneros is where pre- Hispanic dishes meet modern Mexican cuisine.

MARKET WATCH

No visit to Mexico City is complete without strolling through the city’s local markets. Gourmands flock to the San Juan Market, open seven days a week and known for such exotic meats as venison, crocodile, and wild boar (top city chefs shop here). For antiques and art, visit El Bazar Sábado, and if on the search for unique Mexican crafts, try Mercado Artesanal La Ciudadela.

ROAD TRIP

Venture to Teotihuacán, which is well worth the hour drive. Built 2,000 years ago and the Western Hemisphere’s largest archaeological site, Teotihuacán is enormous, spanning more than 100 square miles. Climb the Pyramids of the Sun and the Moon and wander around the courtyards and temples. Day trips to Cuernavaca (one hour from Mexico City) and Taxco (about three hours) also never disappoint. Taxco is a charming small village known for its jewelry making, and Cuernavaca’s city center features the 16th-century Palace of Cortés, former home of the aforementioned Spanish conqueror Hernán Cortés.

Plan a day trip to Taxco, located three hours from Mexico City.

AUTHENTIC EXPERIENCES

Opt for a sunrise balloon ride over the ruins of Teotihuacán followed by breakfast and traditional mariachi music, or take a helicopter expedition to Guanajuato’s best vineyard. Visit top museums and archaeological sites after hours with an expert guide or enjoy a private dinner at the Frida Kahlo Museum’s garden (simply unforgettable!).

WHERE TO STAY

The St. Regis Mexico City is located on Paseo de la Reforma and features spacious, well-appointed rooms, as well as a rooftop pool and spa, with great views of the city. Las Alcobas, a Luxury Collection Hotel, is intimate, with just 35 rooms and suites. The ambiance is cozy, understated, and residential, and the property is located on Masaryk Street—Mexico City’s Madison Avenue. If seeking a younger, vibrant design hotel, I recommend W Mexico City. A 10-minute walk from Las Alcobas in the Polanco district, it features cuisine by celebrity chef José Andrés. Two other centrally located and superbly managed properties are the Hyatt Regency Mexico City or the Presidente InterContinental Hotel. If a chic apartment is more your style, consider Siqueiros Dream, the former home of Mexican artist David Siqueiros.