NorthArgentina: & South

Editor at Large IGNACIO MAZA discovers the essence of this vibrant country, including the birthplace of tango, spectacular landscapes, the heritage of indigenous civilizations, colonial settlements, and a cosmopolitan metropolis.

EXPLORING ARGENTINA IS LIKE DISCOVERING MANY COUNTRIES IN ONE. You’ll find tropical jungles and wetlands in the northeast, dry valleys and high mountain peaks in the Andean region to the west, fertile plains in the central Pampas, and vast Patagonian steppes reaching towards Antarctica. As the eighth largest country in the world, Argentina is enormous — roughly the size of India! Due to the long distances between regions and limited time, I visited two locales I’d yet to experience: the Northwest and Patagonia. I also couldn’t help myself and added on a few days in Buenos Aires, the country’s capital. Here are my top takeaways to a country that already has me yearning for a return trip.

RAFFISH LA BOCA put BUENOS AIRES on the map, considered the first city port and the BIRTHPLACE OF TANGO.

Buenos A Ires

LATIN AMERICA’S HEART OF CULTURAL PURSUITS

Most trips to Argentina begin and end in Buenos Aires. This sprawling metropolis located at the mouth of the River Plate is where 15 million-plus inhabitants (roughly one out of every three Argentines) reside. The most European of all South American capitals, Buenos Aires is sophisticated and always in motion. The city combines the architecture of Paris and Madrid with an irrepressible Latin American spirit. You’ll experience nonstop traffic, late hours, decadent dining, festive nightlife, and worldclass arts and culture.

Buenos Aires is also a collection of distinct neighborhoods. The most notable include the stately Centro, a historic district on the edge of the river where you will find the Cabildo, an 18 th-century town hall, Casa Rosada (Argentina’s Presidential Palace), and Plaza de Mayo, where Argentines protest and celebrate special occasions. Raffish La Boca put Buenos Aires on the map, considered the first city port and the birthplace of tango. Walk down colorful El Caminito and admire the street art. Explore the charming cobblestone streets of San Telmo in search of antiques and the perfect empanada, a pastry filled with meat and savory ingredients. Don’t miss La Recoleta, the elegant neighborhood of Argentina’s elite, where you’ll find opulent palaces, chic apartment buildings, and enticing shopping and dining. Visit the namesake cemetery, the burial place of Argentina’s wealthy and powerful, including Eva Perón. Continue to Palermo and stroll the parks, and then wander through its trendy Soho and Hollywood subdivisions lined with hip restaurants, bars, and stylish shops. While in Palermo, visit the Eva Perón Museum for a survey of her life and legacy. Whether you are for or against peronismo , learning about the history of Juan Domingo Perón and his famous wife is essential to understand today’s Argentina. For something completely different, visit the city’s newest neighborhood, Puerto Madero, home of high-rise residential and office buildings, renovated grain warehouses, and top city restaurants.

Buenos Aires is proud of its rich cultural heritage, vibrant theater district, and one of the world’s finest opera houses, Teatro Colón. Although the capital has hundreds of bookstores, the most beautiful is El Ateneo Grand Splendid, an ornate theater turned into a book lover’s temple. And for the culinary traveler, the capital is celebrated for its diverse and high-quality dining, particularly the abundant grass-fed beef, considered by many the finest on the globe.

Opposite, clockwise from top: Salta’s San Francisco church and convent; a typical landscape in Argentina’s northwest; Buenos Aires’ National Congress building; Purmamarca’s Hill of Seven Colors (Jujuy province).

The Northwest

Colorful Panoramas And The Living Legacy Of Ancient Civilizations

From Buenos Aires, I flew to Salta, the premier gateway to Argentina’s noroeste . Here you’ll find stunning landscapes, snow-covered mountains, colonial towns, spectacular deserts, and rock formations, and above all, the living heritage of ancient indigenous civilizations. Salta’s spirit is tied to the altiplano of Bolivia and Perú, not distant Buenos Aires. The ideal way to experience the northwest is with an expert guide who knows the secrets of this hardscrabble land and a driver who can navigate the often unpaved and narrow roads.

The sights in this region are of top note. In the Quebrada de las Conchas, wander inside a 60-foot sandstone amphitheater carved by wind and water and featuring perfect acoustics. Hike rocky paths covered by forests of giant cactus ( cardones ) in the highlands of Cachi or explore the otherworldly landscapes of Angastaco Nature Reserve. Sample some of the finest wines in Argentina, especially Malbecs and Torrontés whites in Cafayate’s vineyards. Ride the “Train to the Clouds,” one of the highest in the world, with sections reaching 14,200 feet above sea level. An engineering feat, this famous railway can be experienced in one day.

Travel north to Jujuy province to see natural wonders like the Quebrada de Humahuaca, a UNESCO World Heritage site. This northsouth valley — a key commercial link during the Spanish colonial period — is known for charming towns and emblematic vistas. Another highlight? The Serranía del Hornocal, best seen in the afternoon. Layers of eroded limestone and exposed minerals have created chromatic mountainsides and the multicolored rocks are the result of being exposed to the elements over millennia. Another must: Salinas Grandes. The enormous salt flat extends as far as the horizon and is the remains of an ancient lake (now dry). Best of all? The enchanting villages of Molinos, Cachi, and Uquía. These settlements, some dating back to the 16th Century, are frozen in time and offer a window into the area’s rich and storied past. Spend time in Salta, a pleasant city of colonial architecture featuring grand churches painted red and pink, a café-lined central plaza, and the Museum of High Altitude (MAAM), where you’ll find perfectly preserved Inca mummies.

PATAGONIA WILD, UNTRAMMELED, AND BREATHTAKING

This remote region of endless landscapes, windswept plains, and towering mountains has enchanted travelers of all stripes, including Magellan, Butch Cassidy, and Charles Darwin. The top highlight in Patagonia is Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, home to jagged peaks, awe-inspiring scenery, and world-class hiking trails. This National Park has two focal points: The northern town of El Chaltén (the trekking capital of South America), and the southern El Calafate, the gateway to the region and main airport.

Stay at the newly opened Explora Lodge near El Chaltén, the ultimate basecamp to explore the northern region. The lodge is located within the conservation reserve of Los Huemules and frames fantastic views of the Electric Valley and Marconi Glacier. Of the many hikes offered by Explora, the most sought-after is the trek to Laguna de Los Tres for the best views of Mount Fitz Roy, Argentina’s Matterhorn. This challenging, 15mile hike will demand every ounce of energy but is well worth the effort. The day I hiked this trail we had good weather, so I was able to see splendid Mount Fitz Roy from the edge of the lagoon, which was still frozen in Patagonia’s early spring. The sense of accomplishment and rush of emotions felt when reaching Laguna de Los Tres is unforgettable. At the south end of the park is the star attraction: Perito Moreno Glacier, an arm of the Patagonian Icefield. This notable glacier is easily accessed and is constantly advancing, causing massive chunks of ice calving from its front walls. There are many ways to experience the wonder and grandeur of Perito Moreno Glacier: trekking across the ice, cruising or kayaking on the glacial lake, or walking down elevated boardwalks for great views of massive ice formations over three miles wide. Halfway between El Calafate and the glacier is EOLO, the intimate Relais & Chateaux Lodge embodying the spirit of Patagonia and the best place to stay in this area. This serene and warmhearted lodge, set on a hill within a vast estate, was the perfect place to end my journey.

On the last night before flying home, I searched the night sky until I found the Southern Cross (always a good sign!). My trip to Argentina had come to an end, and my wish for a great adventure had come true.

More Online. For additional inspiration on top stays in Argentina, enter OFFER EW37748 on the website found on the back cover.

Discerning travelers are always looking for new horizons. Editor at Large IGNACIO MAZA is always in search of what’s next in travel, including these 2023 hotspots.