The Intrepid Traveler

Mark Ellwood reveals top temples, hidden eateries, and the finest sakes in Japan when traveling from Hakone to Kyoto with Cox and Kings.

Cox and Kings Traditions and Temples itinerary spans Japan in every sense—zig-zagging around the island of Honshu and the country’s astonishing cultural diversity. It ranges from the hot spring-powered resort town of Hakone—nestled close to the cloud-capped Mount Fuji in the rustic countryside—to Osaka, the bustling and gloriously brash seaside city. Osaka’s known for its tradition of kuidaore (aka eat until you drop!), and intrepid travelers can indulge in unfamiliar tidbits like takoyaki (deep fried octopus balls). Traditions and Temples also brings visitors to Tokyo, dipping into the country’s storied past via a visit to a sumo-wrestling school, and celebrating its gleaming present in Ginza, where stores like Chanel are as much a work of art as the products on sale inside. Of course, a comprehensive visit to Japan wouldn’t be complete without a detour to Kyoto, the former Imperial capital where there’s an astonishing 17 UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

TEMPLE HOPPING

Kyoto is synonymous with temples, with more than 1,600 holy sites dotted within its city limits. Visit the Ninna-Ji, which was once a royal palace and at which the emperor serves as official high priest, and the Kinkaku-Ji, or Golden Temple, where the gilded pagoda shimmers as it reflects off the surrounding lake. Don’t miss the lesser known Ginkaku-Ji, or Silver Temple, which is often less trafficked and ideal for stillness and contemplation. Walk there via the Philosopher’s Path, a cherry tree-lined trail which hugs the canal.

Nokishita gin bar.

Chanel Ginza courtesy of Peter Marino Architects.

Kyoto’s Omen restaurant.

EPICUREAN MUST

Break for lunch at the noodle joint, Omen. Look for a long line of locals outside, yet don’t be afraid of the wait. Service is fast and the bowls of chewy udon, served with hot or cold broth, are delicious. And if the tatami-style seating downstairs is disconcerting, head to the upper level, with western-style tables and chairs.

SAKE, GIN, AND SUCH

For centuries Kyoto has been renowned for its artisanship, a legacy of its longstanding role as the base of Japan’s imperial court and the moneyed elite that surrounded it. Kyoto-made crafts are highly prized and include kyo-yaki pottery, silk-weaving, fans, and lacquer-ware. It’s also a notable sake producer, thanks to the purity of the water at nearby Fushimi. The Gekkeikan Okura Kinenkan is a former sake warehouse that now doubles as both a museum and tasting venue. Today, Japan’s first custom-built craft gin distillery is in Kyoto, too, lured there by the artisan know-how of the locals. Look for its delicate gin, Ki-No-Bi (or Beauty of the Seasons) at one of the new crop of downtown cocktail bars. Squeeze into the 12-person Nokishita and order a drink from the bartender. Spirits are artfully presented in a spotlit frame, more like a liquid work of art than a thirst quencher. Next up, it’s dinner at Giro Giro, located just a few blocks away. This serves an approachable and affordable riff on the kaiseki meal, Japan’s answer to a tasting menu, with seven bite-sized courses. Ask for one of the seats at the counter, which has views of both the canal and the chefs who handcraft dishes from a dorm room-sized kitchen.

AFTER HOURS

Make sure to walk around the neighborhood of Gion. It’s full of bars, restaurants and teahouses and is the city’s original nightlife ‘hood. Find the NITI café, located down a little alleyway and housed in an old ochaya, or a café where geishas once entertained. Slip off your shoes and order one of its shaved ice desserts. A mountain of feather-light shards is drizzled with a green tea syrup and filled with aromatic red bean paste. Once dusk falls, you’ll emerge into a different world. As the sun sets, paper lanterns hung from low-slung buildings flicker into life, while an occasional artfully dressed geisha will sashay determinedly down the street. The narrow, winding streets are rimmed with wood-framed houses, and a walk here feels like stepping back into Edo-era Japan. It’s a reminder that Traditions and Temples is a trip in both time and space.