Tahiti Discovery #01 by Tahiti Discovery

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《发现大溪地》第一期 TAHITI DISCOVERY N°1

A publication of © gregoire le bacon

大溪地文化传播公司出版 N°Tahiti: 758 268 Tahiti - FrenchPolynesia 大溪地-法属波利尼西亚 Postal box :42242 Fare Tony Papeete Phone :(689) 40.83.14.83 tahiticommunication@mail.pf

12 大溪地：天堂美景

出版主任 Editor 卢多维克•拉尔迪埃 Ludovic Lardiere 电话：（689）89 72 87 13

出品人 production manager 恩佐•里索 Enzo Rizzo 电话：（689）87 74 69 46 广告网络策划 advertising 塞巴斯蒂安•马特 Sébastien Mathé 电话：（689）89 72 19 73 公司联系/航空公司联系 Airline contact Torea Colas，Vanessa Shan Sei Fan 电话：（689）40 46 02 75 此刊合作编辑人员 Collaborated in this edition 马丽•勒鲁、帕特里克•瑟罗、克洛德－雅克•布尔雅、劳伦斯•亚历克斯•瑞兹诺夫 Marie Leroux, Patrick Seurot, Claude-Jacques Bourgeat et Laurance Alexander Rudzinoff 平面策划 Graphic design 大溪地文化传播公司 Tahiti Communication 英文翻译 English translation 卡瑞瓦•马特阿塔•阿兰 Kareva Mateata Allain 中文翻译 CHINESE translation 宋展、王辛 Zhan Song, Justine Wang Xin 印刷 / Printed in Quad Graphic Chile 10 000 copies 10000册 Legal deposit at the release 版权保护自初版之日起

www.airtahinui.com

Tahiti: images of paradise

28 大溪地度假村的秘密 Inside Tahitian resorts

38 波利尼西亚婚礼的魅力

The Magic of a Tahitian wedding

46 大溪地传统民族舞蹈‘Ori Tahiti 波利尼西亚文化庆典

'Ori Tahiti, A celebration of French Polynesian culture

54 大溪地珍珠珍珠皇后的伟大历史

Tahitian Pearls, The great history of the queen of all pearls

64 大溪地购物

Shopping in Tahiti

76 大溪地-中国流放至天堂

Tahitian-Chinese, Exile towards paradise

82 谢阁兰 Victor Segalen 大溪地与中国之间

Victor Segalen, Between Tahiti and China

84 罗伯特•温 Robert WAN：献给珍珠的一生

Robert Wan: a life dedicated to pearls

90 作家吉米•李（Jimmy LY ）的传记追寻客家人的记忆

Jimmy Ly, In search of Hakka identity

94 易立亚一个人和他的两个挚爱

Hiria Ottino, One man but two passions: China and Tahiti

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大溪地努伊航空

聚焦波利尼西亚航空公司 ZOOM over the French Polynesian airline

十多年来，大溪地努伊航空一直保证着大溪地的航空业务服务。作为衔接波利尼西亚和世界各地的主要航空公司，她是这个海外国家旅游业的心脏。

远离欧洲大陆18000公里，波利尼西亚这个法国海外领土处于太平洋的心脏，它离最近的大陆6000 公里。旅游业是波利尼西亚的首要自主资源，拥有定期和持久的航空服务便成为了其发展的先决条件。这个经济社会群体拥有27万人口，分布在十多个岛屿上（总共有118个岛屿，其中67个被居住）。其它数据同样证实了法属波利尼西亚的不同之处，其所有的岛屿分布在几乎和欧洲面积一样大的550万平方公里的领域上。

大溪地努伊航空承担了该国70%的客运量。它是波利尼西亚群岛旅游业– 领土的主要自主资源的心脏。大溪地及其岛屿于2013年接待了大约16,4游客，其中27000为邮轮乘客，146000酒店住宿游客和18000民宿游客。2013年旅游业的收入（不含客运）超过420亿太平洋法郎（约3,5亿欧元），它使2700企业（饭店，酒店和其他住宿和交通服务）得以生存，并提供了近10000个就业机会，占

多年来，不少航空公司试图在这里落户，但是终究因为经济不景气和破产而告终。时至如今大溪地努伊航空公司始终是衔接主岛大溪地和世界各地的主要航空公司。它每年运营2200次航班，年平均载客量为42000人次，每日提供巴黎/洛杉矶/大溪地航线的航班。她还运营飞往奥克兰和东京的航班。通过和其它航空公司的合作，它通航40多个城市，有与法国SNCF共享代码的悉尼、纽约和马赛，美国的美国航空公司，太平洋地区的澳洲航空和新西兰航空，亚洲的日本航空和大韩航空。

自1988年来，它是确保法属波利尼西亚航空服务的主要航空公司

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法属波利尼西亚总就业人口的15％以上。

自1984年以来，法属波利尼西亚就正式成为共和国内部的海外自治领土。1996年它的内部自主权得到了加强。为了挑战远离大陆的这一不利条件，它于 1996建立了自己的远程航线公司。波利尼西亚政府联合当地私人投资商成立了大溪地努伊航空，公司的首要任务是维持目的地充足的座位量，以确保法属波利尼西亚旅游业的良好发展。

1998年11月20日，大溪地努伊航空实现其帕皮提－洛杉矶航线的首航，紧接着使用其第一架飞机

享誉国际的高质量服务

进行了从帕皮提至东京航线的运营。如今，它的

大溪地努伊航空公司拥有一支由空客A340/300组

机队包括5架A340-300空中客车，使她得以运营欧

成的机队。这种机型具有不同的舱位，机舱舒适且

洲（巴黎戴高乐机场）、美国、日本和新西兰航

空间大，舱内噪音小。在安全性方面，大溪地努伊

班。2008年，为了更好地集中服务每周两班的东京

航空拥有由国际航空运输协会颁发的，每2年审查

枢纽航班，ATN停飞大阪。大溪地努伊航空也和世

一次的国际认证“IOSA国际航协运行安全审计”。

界各地超过60家的公司签订了联运的合作协议

至于保养，它得益于专业的汉莎技术。大溪地努伊

法属波利尼西亚的主要经济动力之一

航空只和欧洲航空安全局EASA引荐的专家合作。这些引荐专家和高质量服务是赢得认可的重要标准。2008年，2010年和2011年，大溪地努伊航空

自运营以来，大溪地努伊航空为这个见证了其出生

被“旅游+休闲”杂志的读者评为最佳国际航空公

和成长的国家的发展作出了决定性的贡献。其年营

司。她还于2011年和2012年被“环球旅行”杂志

业额为2,6亿欧元，其中10％的货运业务，5％的

的读者评为“南太平洋最佳航空公司”。总体得到

包机业务。该波利尼西亚公司发挥其领导企业的的

乘客的一致好评，大溪地努伊航空公司机组成员的

核心作用，尤其在旅游业带动的的经济活动方面。

使命是让游客从登机的那一刻起，就感受到梦幻的

她也是法属波利尼西亚的第二大私企。

旅游圣地大溪地。优雅和精致的机舱，无微不至的照顾，机组人员以传统的欢迎礼仪送上芳香扑鼻的

大溪地努伊航空面临的挑战是巨大的，其现任首席

的蒂亚雷花，这些与众不同之处更突出了大溪地努

执行官米歇尔•蒙瓦森（Michel

伊航空尊贵的空中服务。

Monvoisin）明确

到，众所周知大溪地努伊航空是“太平洋上的一家小公司，漫长的航程，稀疏的航空流量，这更需要精细化管理”。大溪地努伊航空牵涉着国家的社会和文化生活，除此之外，作为“大使”的她也支持（文化，体育等）多个领域的波利尼西亚人才。她也是许多重要事件的赞助商。最后，该公司成功地赢得了一批重要的波利尼西亚客人，公司的航班是他们出行的首选。每年，大溪地努伊航空和波利尼西亚旅游局合作，投资近10亿太平洋法郎（约840万美元）来促进这个旅游目的地的发展。

PICTURES : gregoire le bacon

TAHITI DISCOVERY

Air Tahiti Nui

PICTURES : gregoire le bacon

ZOOM over the French Polynesian airline Air Tahiti Nui has provided airline service for Tahiti for fifteen years. As the main airline linking French Polynesia to the rest of the world, it remains at the heart of the tourist activity of this overseas country. At 18,000 km/11,000 mi from France, French Polynesia is an overseas community located in the heart of the South Pacific, about 6,000km/3,700 mi from the closest continent. The establishment of regular permanent flights became necessary since tourism is the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s main socio-economic resource for 270,000 inhabitants spread over 118 islands, of which 67 are inhabited. Another fact distinguishing French Polynesia, is that the islands are scattered over an area more than 5.5 million km2 (21 million sq. mi) which is a surface as vast as Europe or China. Over the years, other airline companies have attempted to set up in French Polynesia and most gave up for economic reasons. Today, Air Tahiti Nui (ATN) is the principal airline linking Tahiti, the main island, to the rest of the world. With 2,200 flights annually, it carries an average of 420,000 passengers per year. The airline offers daily Paris/Los Angeles/Tahiti flights. It also provides service to Auckland and Tokyo. In collaboration with other companies, it services about 40 cities including Sydney, New York and Marseille through code-share arrangements with SNCF in France, American Airlines in the USA, Qantas and Air New Zealand for the Pacific, as well as Japan Airlines and Korean Air in Asia. Air Tahiti Nui provides transport for more than 70% of the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s visitors. This puts it at the core of French Polynesian tourism and makes it a principal local resource. Tahiti and the islands welcomed approximately 164,000 tourists in 2013 of which 27,000 went on cruises, 146,000 stayed in hotels and 18,000 stayed in family-owned guest inns. Tourism sector revenue in 2013 (excluding transporting

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passengers) was valued at over 42 billion CFP francs (approx. 350 million euros/$430M), helping support 2,700 businesses (mostly restaurants, hotels and other accommodation and transportation services). This sector represents almost 10,000 jobs, more than 15% of the employment in French Polynesia.

French Polynesia's main airline since 1998 French Polynesia, which since 1984 constitutes an overseas territory with internal self-government within the French Republic, benefited from an enhanced status of this internal autonomy in 1996. In order to meet the challenges posed by its distance from other continents, French Polynesia developed its own long-distance airline in 1996. Created by the French Polynesian government in association with local private investors, Air Tahiti Nui's primary mission is to sustain its home base in order to ensure continued tourism development in French Polynesia. On November 20, 1998, the airline carried out its inaugural flight between Papeete and Los Angeles, and immediately thereafter, flew its first aircraft from Papeete to Tokyo. Today, Air Tahiti Nuiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fleet consists of five Airbus A340-300 that facilitate service to Europe (Paris-CDG), the United States, Japan and New Zealand. In 2008, ATN stopped service to Osaka in order to concentrate on its Tokyo hub with two weekly flights. Partnership agreements have been established with more than 60 companies around the world.

A driving force in French Polynesian economy Since launching its operations, Air Tahiti Nui has made significant contributions to the development of the country that witnessed its inception and growth. With annual sales of 260 million euros ($320M), of which 10% comes from cargo activity and 5% from charters, the French Polynesian airline plays a pivotal role as a leader in enterprise, particularly with economic activity generated by tourism. It is also the second largest private sector employer in French Polynesia. This company has quite a considerable challenge when considering that Air Tahiti Nui “is a small company in the middle of the Pacific with minimal air traffic and long routes that must be closely monitored,” explains CEO Michel Monvoisin. Further, Air Tahiti Nui is involved in the social and cultural activities of the country. One way is through the ambassadorship program that supports diverse French Polynesian talent (such as culture and sports). ATN also sponsors several events. In addition, the airline company has secured a loyal local following with French Polynesians who regularly fly ATN. Air Tahiti Nui invests almost one billion CFP francs annually (approx. 8.4 million/$10M) to promote French Polynesia as a destination in partnership with the tourism office

International reputation for excellence Air Tahiti Nui has a fleet of aircraft (Airbus A 340/300) reputed for comfort in each class, available space on board and low cabin noise. As far as safety, Air Tahiti Nui holds an IOSA certification (IATA Operational Safety Audit) issued by the International Air Transport Association that is reevaluated every two years. In regards to maintenance, ATN benefits from the expertise of Lufthansa Technik. Further, ATN works only with specialists referenced by AESA, the European Aviation Safety Agency. These endorsements and the quality of ATN’s service have resulted in distinguished acknowledgements. In 2008, 2010 and 2011, readers of Travel + Leisure magazine recognized Air Tahiti Nui as one of the best international airlines. In 2011 and 2012, the readers of Global Traveler magazine selected Air Tahiti Nui as the "best airline in the South Pacific." A feature truly appreciated by travelers is that Air Tahiti Nui crews ensure that passengers feel as if they are in their dream destination of Tahiti as soon as they get on board. Elements that especially distinguish in-flight service include cabins that are refined and elegant and an entire crew that pays close attention to details, such as offering each passenger the incomparable smell of a tiare Tahiti flower as a traditional welcome, known as “maeva.”

Contacts - Air Tahiti Nui

联系－大溪地努伊航空 France / Europe

法国/欧洲

28, Bld St-Germain, 75005 PARIS

Tel : (33) 1 56 81 13 30 Tel : (33) 1 56 81 13 35 Fax : (33) 1 56 81 13 39 E-mail : info@airtahitinui.fr Web site : www.airtahitinui.fr Réservations 预定 Tel : (33) 08 25 02 42 02 USA / Los Angeles

美国/洛杉矶

1990 E. Grand Avenue Suite 300 El Segundo, CA 90245 USA

Tel : (877) 824 4846 (toll free) Fax : (310) 640 3683 Web site : www.airtahitinui.com Japan

日本

Shin-Yurakucho Building 2nd Floor 1-12-1 Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 100-0006 Japan

Tel : (81) 3 62 67 11 71 Fax : (81) 3 32 11 00 80 E-mail : info@airtahitinui.co.jp Web site : www.airtahitinui.com New-Zealand

新西兰

c/o Discover The World Central Park, Building 5, Level 2 660 Great South Road Greenlane / Auckland 2025

Mailing Address DX: EP82525 PO Box 39-366 Howick - Auckland 2145 Tel: (64) 9 972 1217 Fax: (64) 9 972 1257 E-mail : sales@airtahitinui.co.nz Web site : www.airtahitinui.co.nz

大溪地和中国 Tahiti and China

大溪地－波利尼西亚：5 个群岛的118个岛屿分布在几乎和中国陆域面积一样大的海域上。 Tahiti, French Polynesia: Five archipelagoes containing 118 islands spread over an ocean surface area almost as vast as the Republic of China.

面积： 550万平方公里 Surface Area: 5.5 M Km2/ 2123562 sq. mi.

人口：27 万居民 Population: 270,000

胜于一个旅游地，胜于一种体验：大溪地的群岛 More than a destination, an experience: The islands of Tahiti. © tim-mckenna.com

天堂美景 images of paradise

阳光，鲜花和享受生命的国家 Country of sun, flowers and joy full living.

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宁静和美丽，相约我们海岛的沙滩畔 Tranquility and beauty await on the beaches of our islands © Philippe Bacchet TAHITI DISCOVERY

波拉波拉，太平洋之明珠，世界上最美的岛屿之一 Bora Bora, the Pearl of the Pacific, one of the must beautiful islands of the world. © Lucien Pesquié

大溪地直升机全景观光游带您揭开波利尼西亚岛屿不为人知的魅力。 Tahiti Helicopters reveals the hidden charms of our islands to you.

乘着可以安全载客5人的空客松鼠直升机，大溪地直升机公司邀您去发现一个绚丽多姿的波利尼西亚。从向风群岛的大溪地岛或者背风群岛的波拉波拉岛出发，大溪地直升机公司提供各种发现观光之旅、首次体验之旅、内岛摆渡、私人观光游或其它个性化的飞行服务项目。 This is aboard of one of its Airbus Ecureuil, configured to safely accommodate 5 passengers, that Tahiti Helicopters will make you discover the splendor of Polynesia. From Tahiti (Windward Islands) or Bora Bora (Leeward Islands), Tahiti Helicopters offers discovery tours, interisland connections, private getaways and other customized services .

2处办公点：大溪地岛，波拉波拉岛 - Tél: (689) 40.50.40.75 - info@tahiti-helicopters.com

发现我们所有群岛的多样性 Discovering all of our archipelagoes in all their diversity. © Lucien Pesquié

ÂŠ Frank Buffetrille

与受保护野生海洋动物的难忘邂逅 Unforgettable encounters with a protected fauna.

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一个对比鲜明的和充满色彩的旅游胜地 A destination of many contrasts and colors. pictures : philippe bacchet

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Privacy comes naturally.

ÂŠ G. LE BACON

s o c i e t y i s l a n d s | t u a m o t u i s l a n d s | g a m b i e r i s l a n d s | m a r q u e s a s i s l a n d s | au s t r a l i s l a n d s

甘比尔群岛隐秘的美丽 The Gambier Archipelago, hidden and secret beauty. © Julien Girardot

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波拉波拉岛奢华的酒店 Bora Bora and her prestigious resorts. ©TahitiFlyshoot-Tim-McKenna.com

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感受文化和波利尼西亚的动人笑脸 Meeting our culture and the famous Polynesian smile. 26

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从放松到极限运动，大溪地属于每个人 From relaxation to extreme sports, Tahiti has something for everyone.

大溪地度假村的秘密 Inside Tahitian resorts

ÂŠ gregoire le bacon

面积最大的大溪地岛，水果飘香的茉莉雅岛，泻湖幽蓝的波拉波拉岛，被誉为“潜水者之埃佛勒斯峰”的软吉若阿岛，香草之岛塔哈，芳香之岛赖阿特阿，马龙•白兰度的爱情之岛泰蒂亚罗阿，更不算其它不计其数的魅力各异的岛屿，波利尼西亚这些最有名的小岛成为了国际知名度假酒店的代名词。

不

论是享誉国际的连锁度假酒店如洲际、艾

平洋核实验基地）的落成，大量的技术人员和法国

美、索菲特、圣瑞吉、希尔顿、四季和罗莱

军队的到来也增加了对住房的需求，这是岛国的第

夏朵，还是当地的高级品牌酒店吉雅若阿、麦泰、

二次改革。第三次改革涉及到1961年大溪地法阿国

珍珠沙滩，这些奢华的度假中心与美丽、舒适和生

际机场的奠基, 它取代了较之规模更小的波拉波拉

活艺术相呼应，最初它们只是避暑的场所。栖身于

机场，并很快接纳了喷气式飞机的着陆。新机场的

美丽的环礁岛、山谷中、原始的沙滩上，那里白得

建成推动了波利尼西亚在美国和欧洲旅游市场的发

耀眼的沙子衬托着蓝得令人难以置信的海水，它们

展，游客们也由此得以在世界尽头享受异国情调之

宁静和享乐的的结晶。

旅。自此以后，众多国际集团争先恐后地开发那些最具魅力，最原始和最让人出乎意料的海湾来兴建

让我们先回顾一下历史。大溪地国际星级酒店的故

一家比一家奢华的高级度假村。

事始于1960年，三次名符其实的改革完全改变了这个岛国的命运。第一次改革源于由美国米高梅电影制片公司拍摄的，由马龙•白兰度（Marlon

撼人心魄的美

Bran-

do）主演的《邦蒂号起义》。此片的拍摄持续了三

除了大溪地，茉莉雅和软吉若阿的泻湖之外，位于

年。大批的演员、技术人员、和配角驻扎在大溪地

社会群岛的motu（珊瑚礁小岛）也成了酒店择址

岛的普纳奥雅和茉莉雅岛，建造酒店的需求由此诞

的首选之地。被改造成卧室的水上屋成了一个截然

生。随着1962年在土阿莫土群岛东南部的CEP（太

不同的居住场所。随着技术的改良和观念的转变，

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酒店投资者们更热衷于在自然生态环境保存完整的

疗中心，员工志愿者们竭尽全力帮助它们恢复健

岛屿上建造酒店。专业的园艺师们把茂盛的地方性

康。海龟是波利尼西亚传说中的使者，曾经是古老

热带植物搬上了舞台，打造异国风情的大花园，使

部落首领的象征，现在它们是海洋生态健康平衡

其犹如一出绿色芭蕾。本地菜肴在名厨的指点下风

的“计温器”。在低纬度的热带，冷气肯定是必不

味别具一格，使那些置身于大自然的高级美食饭店

可缺。享受完一天的太阳浴和泻湖戏水之后，筋疲

和临海餐厅让人耳目一新。伴着醉人的泻湖，远眺

力尽的人们需要一份惬意的凉爽来驱走疲劳。空调

遍布翠郁果木的远山，人们似乎第一次动情地开始

岂不是高碳消费？泰蒂亚罗阿和波拉波拉的两所度

幻想。要知道在100多年期间，从萨米埃尔•瓦里斯

假村采用了SWAC（海水冷却系统）。这是一种利用

（Samuel

深层海水来制造纯天然无污染冷气的新技术。

Wallis）带着第一批欧洲人登陆大溪地

到19世纪末名家的著作中，人们仅用水手式的“专业”的眼光来看待这蓝绿到超乎寻常的泻湖。在这

文化的聚宝盆

里布满了危险和陷阱，美丽并不存在。传统文化是否得到了充分的赏识呢？胡阿希内岛的

可持续性发展

一家度假中心把文化融入了酒店的建造。欧洲史前的波利尼西亚历史被重新赋予了崇高的地位。很多

众多高级连锁度假村开始在波拉波拉、塔哈、泰蒂

酒店通过巧妙的设计和室内装饰体现出波利尼西亚

亚罗阿和大溪地岛落实环境保护政策。此环保行为

文化的重要性。整个酒店沉浸在营造的传统文化氛

远远超出了酒店的职责范围，它的用意是让所有人

围中，大堂、花园或私人场所都饰有tiki、unu（

都吸取经验。珊瑚礁受到环境威胁了？酒店资助种

长形木雕灵牌）和tapa纸画（植物纤维制成的大块

植的珊瑚礁花园使灿烂的珊瑚又遍布了整个泻湖。

纸张，上面画有传统神话的象形和几何图案）。

海龟被渔网伤着了？酒店设立了器具齐全的海龟诊

PICTURES : gregoire le bacon

TAHITI DISCOVERY

> 仅仅靠装饰是远远不够的，传统文化也通过’Ori

Tahiti

大溪地传统民族舞蹈表演得以重生。大溪

独一无二的体验

地最著名的舞蹈团赋予了波利尼西亚古老的神话与

参观完奢华别墅的角角落落之后，您便可以开始悠

传说新的生命。人们也通过美食来表现文化，比如

长假期并探索身处之地了。它举世无双，不论您身

Fenua（波利尼西亚大地）的自然资源的使用：uru

处珊瑚礁岛屿，俊山脚下，还是峡谷入口处；不论

（面包树）、taro（生块茎果实）和fafa（当地的

您是以马代步，脚踩单车，还是驾驶四驱车，细细

菠菜）。人们用它们与深海或泻湖的鲜鱼，贝壳或

品味和享受这一别样的体验吧！在世界上的哪个泻

虾蟹一起烹饪成美味菜肴，有些海鲜甚至是世界独

湖您可以亲自参与珊瑚花园的保养，或是给海龟疗

一无二的。即便在按摩水疗中心，您都可以发现波

伤？在世界上的哪个小岛，那里毫无人迹，您可以

利尼西亚的文化的身影。Taurumi是当地的一种传

与成群的千百种海鸟一起飞翔？在世界上的哪个地

统按摩，它是古时候mana（上帝赐予的内在力量）

方您可以与鲨鱼、鲸鱼和海豚共舞，并置身于上千

的神奇万能医师使用的按摩技术。

百万五彩斑斓的鱼群中？和它们相比，恐怕连米罗

TAHITI DISCOVERY

的彩画都变成了苏拉吉的单色油画。除了软吉若

之间时；当您仰视哥特教堂般的大溪地板栗树和

阿之外，还有哪个小岛曾被全世界喻为“潜水者

高傲、如凯旋英雄的马毛树时，空气中弥漫着醉

的埃佛勒斯峰”，在哪里您可以拥有这种超乎想

人的栀子花和香草的芳香，在世界上的哪个角

像的潜水体验？在哪里您可以亲手磨制椰丝用来

落，馥郁的花香如此触动过您的嗅觉？

拌生鱼沙拉做午餐；亲手用露兜树叶编织草帽和草提包；甚至了解木雕工艺的技术？在世界上的

夜幕降临时，寂静用它长长的斗篷笼罩着小岛和

哪个地方您可以划着传统独木舟穿越清澈如水晶

沉寂的泻湖。月亮女神伊娜和满天的星星散发出

的泻湖？只有4米深的湖底触手可及。在世界上

柔柔的光，度假村在活动满满的一天之后进入甜

的哪个小岛，您可以参观珍珠养殖场并被邀请收

蜜的梦乡。您沉浸在远处传来的隐隐约约的波利

获大溪地黑珍珠？在世界上哪个小巷的拐角处，

尼西亚传统鼓toere声中，山谷的夜风upe悄然

人们会邀请您止步品尝刚刚摘下来的新鲜菠萝？

而至，带来丝丝凉意。酣然入睡吧！当黎明破晓

它的芬芳和香甜让您再也没有品尝别处水果的欲

时，又有多少神奇等待着您去发现……

望。当您漫步在高势岛屿的羊肠小道，流连于随处可见的芒果树、香蕉树、茂盛的蕨草和番石榴

文 /Patrik Seurot

TAHITI DISCOVERY

PICTURES : tim-mckenna.com

Inside Tahitian resorts The most famous islands in French Polynesia: Tahiti the big island, Moorea the fruitful, Bora Bora with its blue lagoons, Rangiroa the diver’s Everest, Taha’a the vanilla island, Raiatea the scented, Tetiaroa the beloved atoll of Marlon Brando, and many others each with its own charm, are synonymous with LUXURY "BOUTIQUE hotels" and establishments of world-class stature.

The big international names such as Intercontinental, Le Méridien, Sofitel, St-Régis, Hilton, Four Seasons, Relais & Châteaux, as well as locally created establishments, such as Kia Ora, Maitai, and Pearl resort, are not just luxury hotels synonymous with beauty, comfort, and the art of living. They are above all, a refuge. Stunning manifestations of calm and relaxation nestled on the most beautiful atolls, valleys, and unspoiled beaches whose dazzling whiteness contrasts with the most incredible blues ever created. First, we invite you to travel back into the past for a stint. Tahiti’s international hotel history started in the 1960s after three major upheavals. The first pertained to the Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer production of the American film, Mutiny on the Bounty with Marlon Brando, which took three years. The presence of cast and crew in the district of Punaauia on Tahiti and on the island of Moorea led to the construction of hotels. This also met the need to lodge technicians and staff of the French Army who flocked to French Polynesia in 1962 to set up the CEP (Centre d'Experimentation du Pacific) in the southeast area of the Tuamotu Archipelago. This mass arrival constituted the second upheaval in our islands. The third occurred with the inauguration of the Tahiti Faa’a International Airport, which replaced the much

TAHITI DISCOVERY

smaller Bora Bora airport. This new airport quickly received jets. It allowed the development of American and European tourism with visitors on a quest for exoticism in one of the most remote places on earth. Consequently, international teams investigated the most beautiful, unexpected, and wildest places to build hotels, each one as sophisticated as the next.

Mesmerizing beauty At the heart of the choice locations, motu (coral islets) in the Society Islands were favored as well as the lagoons of Tahiti, Moorea and of course, Bora Bora. Bungalows over the water totally transformed the idea of a bedroom. They became an exceptional place to be. With the evolution of design and shifts in attitudes, hotels now build with the environment in mind. Teams dedicated to preserving nature design vast exotic gardens through staging a ballet of lavish vegetation with all the abundant native or tropical plants. It is in the heart of nature that gourmet or seafront restaurants provide a unique setting for local cuisine with signature dishes by great chefs.

This is where, almost for the first time, you can allow yourself to dream not only surrounded by lush mountains resplendent with fruit and trees, but in front of the blue hues of the lagoon. Did you know that for more than 100 years, between the arrival of the first European in Tahiti with Samuel Wallis in 1767 and writers from the end of the 19th century, that the gorgeous green and blue lagoons were mostly scanned gravely by seamen, for whom in the absence of beauty, there existed only traps and danger?

Sustainable development Whether it be on the islands of Bora Bora, Tahaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;a, Tetiaroa or Tahiti, the large hotel groups have now established environmental policies that go beyond the scope of their brands to be life lessons for all of us. Is coral threatened? Coral gardens, financed by these establishments, are making a comeback in the lagoons. Are turtles injured by fishing lines? Clinics have been installed, sometimes in the center of the hotel, with veterinary teams and volunteers to help rehabilitate these mythical Polynesian emblems, totems of the ancient chiefs and now indicators of the balance and health of our ocean. Does air-conditioning, necessary for our location under the equator as well as a welcome respite after a long, exhausting day sunbathing and wading in the lagoon, present a heavy carbon footprint? Two hotels, on Tetiaroa and Bora Bora, are using SWAC (seawater air conditioning), which allows naturally cold water from the deep to create an ecological, non-polluting cooling system.

Backdrops for culture Is the local culture sufficiently honored? A hotel in Huahine puts culture at the heart of its establishment, dedicating an entire section to pre-European Polynesian history, giving it the setting it deserves. Most hotels have known, through architectural and interior design, to assign an essential theme to Polynesian culture. All throughout, whether in the large foyers, the gardens, or private spaces there are tiki, unu (large sculpted panels), and framed tapa (vegetal fibers covering a large space that are imprinted with figures or geometric motifs that depict legends and traditions). However, just dĂŠcor is not enough. As such, the culture comes to life through â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;ori Tahiti dance performances in which the most famous dance groups from our islands revive myths and legends of ancient Polynesians. Culture is also evoked through gastronomy, with delicacies from the natural and local resources of the fenua (French Polynesia), such as uru (breadfruit), taro (tuber) and fafa (local spinach). These elements come together with ingredients from the ocean and lagoon to create a symphony of fish, shells, and shellfish that unveils some of the most unique flavors in the world. Even within the luxury of the spas, you can discover the taurumi, a Polynesian massage technique with powerful curative properties once practiced by the ancient tahua, who were healers with mana (an interior force bestowed by the gods).

TAHITI DISCOVERY

PICTURES : gregoire le bacon

One-of-kind experiences Once you have eyed every corner of your beautiful villa, it will be time to begin your stay and explore your environment. It is unique. Whether you are at heart a motu (islet), at the foot of a mountain, at the entrance to a valley, on horseback, or on a bike or quad…take the time to enjoy this exceptional experience. Where else in the world would you be able to take care of a coral garden or heal a turtle? Where in the world would you come across hundreds of species of birds on land where humans have never trampled? Where else in the world can you swim with sharks, whales, and dolphins surrounded by a myriad of vibrantly colored fish that make bubbly Miro paintings seem like monochromatic Soulages? Which atoll other than Rangiroa lets you dive into what the entire world calls “The Everest of diving,” an experience that surpasses the imagination? Where else would you learn to grate a coconut for the poisson cru dish for lunch, weave your hat or your next palm frond shopping bag, or learn woodcarving techniques? Where else could you paddle in a traditional canoe over a lagoon so clear that you think you can touch the bottom with your hand, although it is more than 4 meters deep (13 ft)? Which atoll in the world, during a visit to a pearl farm, invites you to harvest a cultured pearl? Where else at a fork on a path, would you be offered a freshly picked pineapple, whose sweet, rich flavor can only be found here? Where the fragrance of tiare and vanilla-lined paths titillate your senses while you hike the trails of the high islands between the mango trees and banana trees, the towering ferns and guava

TAHITI DISCOVERY

trees, the large mape chestnut trees with their gothic cathedral-like appearance, and the imperial, triumphant aito ironwood trees? When night falls, when silence cloaks the islands and the sleepy lagoon, when Hina the moon and the stars illuminate with their gentle glow, the hotels doze after a full day. You wind down to the faraway beat of the toere, the traditional Tahitian drum, while the upe, the wind that comes down from the valleys at night, brings you the cool night fragrances. Rest assured. There are plenty more things to discover tomorrow… Patrick Seurot

波利尼西亚婚礼的魅力 The Magic of a Tahitian wedding

ÂŠ gregoire le bacon

大溪地及其岛屿是受全世界情侣青睐的蜜月圣地，在这里新人们拥有多种方式来渡过一个与众不同的新婚蜜月。波利尼西亚诚然是个理想的、难忘蜜月之旅的天堂。

静

谧粉蓝的大海、五彩缤纷的珊瑚、茂盛葱郁

峭的山峰之间。在每个岛屿，情侣们都可以尽情享受

的植被，不论是美丽、摇曳的热带椰林还是

项目繁多的户外活动。要是愿意，他们还可以选择汲

远离尘嚣的天堂小屿，这个广袤无垠的太平洋岛国拥

灵感于古老仪式的波利尼西亚传统婚礼。

有着无穷的秘密让人去探索。

最浪漫的婚典之一自17世纪以来，大溪地就盛负“爱情仙岛”的美誉。

其中最为著名的“南洋明珠”波拉波拉和“梦幻岛

世界各地的游客来到波利尼西亚，用古来的婚礼来

屿”茉莉雅迎接来自世界各地的情侣。在这里新婚

庆祝他们的结合。因此许多度假村推出更具有传统

爱人给他们神圣的婚礼增添浪漫的一笔，已婚情侣

色彩的婚礼，这一项目成了新人的必选活动之一。

则可重温他们的幸福连理。此外在土阿莫土群岛，

让我们来更深入了解这个婚礼仪式：乘着波利尼西

相爱的人们在蓝天和大海之间享受只有你和我的两

亚摇摆独木舟，伴着愉快的民族音乐，新人成双踏

人世界。马克萨斯群岛是著名画家保罗•高更（Paul

上细柔的沙滩。善良纯朴的女人们拥簇着新娘。在

Gauguin）的最爱。它与其他岛屿截然不同，原始壮

享受完花香莫诺伊精油的按摩之后，新娘被打扮成

观的风景让人惊叹与迷恋，深远的峡谷消失在高耸陡

高贵的大溪地公主。

TAHITI DISCOVERY

乘自己的心上人打扮一新的间隙，新郎则穿上古代

婚礼稍微现代化。事实上这种传统的大溪地婚礼仪

部落酋长的服饰，并被烙上了波利尼西亚的图腾

式仅始于上世纪80年代。它源自于古老的习俗和在

（用毡笔所画）。两人穿戴齐全后，身着传统节日

大溪地语中被称为Fa’aipoipora’a的婚礼。

服饰的祭司及其助手笑迎新人的到来。在整个婚礼仪式上，女人们齐声吟唱着宗教歌曲，男人们则敲打着

波利尼西亚婚礼的浪漫情趣让很多世界演艺界名人

传统乐器相伴。两位新人各被赋予全新的波利尼西亚

为之迷恋。比如其中有美国著名演员德斯汀•荷夫

名字。他们戴着艳丽的鲜花冠和花环，乘上皇家大藤

蔓（Dustin Hoffman 1995），米基•洛克（Mickey

椅或由健硕的大溪地男子背着。一份用面包树皮纤维

Rourke）还有艾迪•墨菲（Eddie

制成的塔巴（tapa）婚礼证书将交予新人。接着人们

第一次被电视台转播是在1987年。2004年9月第一

用传统披肩改制的大溪地印花布把幸福的爱人裹在一

对中国新婚夫妇在大溪地采用当地传统婚礼完婚。

Murphy）。婚礼

起，由此象征着他们今生今世的连理。姻缘已定，新人接受祭司的祝福。不论是新婚还是重温浓情爱意，情侣们可以在两种传统婚礼仪式之间选择：随意简单式或是隆重皇家式。此仪式不涉及繁琐的法律程序和在岛国必须逗留的时间。

发现探索古老传统传统婚典仪式被很自然地运用和修饰了，人们甚至原封不动地采用了某些魔幻之处。这是一种很富有诗意的仪式，它意于给情侣营造一个更美妙浪漫的

遇到盛大婚礼时，整个仪式会在成群歌手和舞者的

瞬间，而不是让他们陷入不知所措的陷阱。对于那

载歌载舞中结束，自然少不了一顿美味丰盛的大溪

些想了解原汁原味波利尼西亚文化的人来说，此仪

地菜肴婚宴。有些度假村创意地添上香槟酒服务使

式是最好不过的文化入门课了。 © gregoire le bacon

> 波利尼西亚能成为一个高品质的旅游胜地，不

仅归功于它美丽如画的的风景，更重要的是当地原居民在越来越现代化的社会中，巧妙地承传着这份传统，它成了大溪地人与老祖先血脉相承的“绳索”。在古代，男人和女人的结合是一种古老的传统习俗，而在现代的天主教里，它却或多或少被人们慢慢遗忘了。自1950年来，当地的乐队和舞蹈团不仅使民族节日更生动与鼎盛，并赋予了舞步、旋律、服饰和传统节日盛况更高的价值。反而言

实用信息波利尼西亚传统婚礼仪式的创始者是茉莉雅岛提克文化村。30多家度假村重新采用了此素材向新人们推出可根据个人和家庭预算选择的“婚礼菜单”，并提供婚礼写真和录像。参加婚礼的人员和人数（祭司、舞者和乐师……）是根据选择的婚礼套餐而定的。婚礼的费用也因选择的形式而浮动：王室式或皇家式。一个大型的婚礼会动用 15到20人左右的乐队和舞蹈团。

之，如今的传统婚礼仪式也带来了一丝渗透于古

然而此婚礼仪式不具法律效应。让仪式法律化的

老传统的尊严和神秘。在整个波利尼西亚，30多

前提是，非波利尼西亚公民必须出示由国籍所在

家度假村提供此形式婚礼的举办，幸福的情侣们

国开具的惯例证明、单身证明和在居住地发表的

完全可以随心所欲地选择婚礼举行场所。

结婚告示。以上所有文件都必须翻译成法语才能

文/Claude Jaques-Bourgeat

被接受处理。

TAHITI DISCOVERY

PICTURES : gregoire le bacon

The Magic of a Tahitian wedding Loved by honeymooners the world over, Tahiti and her islands offer many options for newlyweds who wish to have a unique honeymoon. French Polynesia is the ideal location for an unforgettable nuptial experience.

With the turquoise hues of its calm waters, the vibrant coral reefs, luxurious vegetation, striking landscapes or remote island paradises, this vast region of the Pacific has endless possibilities for exploration and discovery. Since the 18th century, Tahiti has been known as the Island of Love. Bora Bora—the Pearl of the Pacific—and Moorea—also called the Magical Isle, are the most famous of these islands that attract couples who want to renew their vows or add a special romantic touch to their wedding. However, the Tuamotu atolls are also a dream refuge for lovers who wish to be alone between the sky and the sea, far removed from the world. As to the Marquesas, the beloved islands of the painter Paul Gauguin, they offer an exceptional natural landscape due to the unique and powerful beauty of high, steep cliffs and deep valleys. Each of these destinations offers newlyweds and couples the opportunity to experience a great variety of activities, and for those who desire to do so, it is possible to plan a wedding ceremony inspired by ancient Polynesian rituals.

One of the most romantic ceremonies Visitors come from all over the world to have a Tahitian wedding. Some hotels create a ceremony that is traditionally inspired, one of their must-have activities. Let’s discover one of these ceremonies. Sometimes, the couple arrives on an outrigger canoe to be welcomed on the beach to the sound of traditional

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instruments. Women prepare the bride with a Monoï coconut oil massage and dress her like a Tahitian princess. While this is going on, the groom is tattooed (with a felt-tip pen), and dressed like an arii (great chief of ancient times). Once they are ready, the high priest and his assistants greet the couple, all in traditional dress. During the entire ceremony, women sing religious hymns and the men accompany them with instruments. The newlywed couple receives a new Tahitian name before being carried on a royal chair or…on a man’s back, adorned with crowns and necklaces of flowers. A certificate made out of tapa (a breadfruit bark parchment made from natural fibers) is presented to them. The bride and groom are then wrapped in a large piece of fabric reminiscent of a traditional cape. Once united, the priest blesses them. Couples can select either a “simple” or “royal” traditional ceremony to commemorate or renew their vows without worrying about legal constraints or having to stay in the country for a required amount of time. For large weddings, the ceremony can be surrounded by an entire group of singers and dancers, as well as include a buffet garnished with traditional dishes. Some hotels even add a touch of modernity through serving…champagne. The Tahitian wedding ceremony has only been revived over the past twenty years or so. It is inspired by ancient marriage traditions called Fa’aipoipora’a in Tahitian. Its romantic allure has seduced many celebrities: American actors Dustin Hoffman (in 1995), Mickey Rourke and Eddie Murphy, for example, to cite a few. The first televised wedding was in 1987, and in September 2004, the first Tahitian marriage of Chinese citizens took place.

Discovering ancient traditions The details found in the traditional ceremonies have been readapted and re-imagined using creative freedom. This poetic license is not about deception, but about making a special moment even more magical. For those who wish to discover the authenticity of Polynesian culture, this experience is a wonderful introduction. Yes, French Polynesia has become a quality tourist destination; however, it owes this not only to its stunning landscapes, but especially to the people who, despite modernity, have been able to perpetuate living ties to an ancestral culture. The union of a man and woman in ancient times was the object of traditional rituals that Christianity, followed by western values, thrust into oblivion. Musical and dance groups that have been the highlight of popular festivities since the 1950s, have not only revived dance steps and melodies, but also costumes and the pomp and circumstance of ancient celebrations. Likewise, the available wedding ceremonies bring back part of the majesty and mystery that permeated the rituals of ancient times. The happy couple has a choice of location, since more than thirty hotels propose traditional weddings.

Practicalities Thirty hotels offer different Tahitian wedding packages initially created by Tiki Village of Moorea. There are “à la carte” weddings that vary according to budget and can be designed by the couple or the family. All of the hotels offer photo and video packages of the ceremony. The number of participants (priest, dancers, musicians, etc.) depends on the selected options. Prices vary depending on the type of wedding, such as princier (for a prince) or royal. A large ceremony can include a group of 15-20 dancers and musicians. It is important to remember that this celebration has no legal validity. In order for it to be official, which is possible, those who are not citizens of France must provide a Certificat de Coutume (an Affidavit of Law prepared by a legal professional from their country), a certificat de célibat (certificate of single-status), and a certificat de publication des bans et de non opposition from their place of residence in their country (a classified ad that has to be published, requesting anyone who opposes the marriage to come forward). Please note that a certified French translation must accompany these documents before they can be accepted. Claude Jaques-Bourgeat

TAHITI DISCOVERY

大溪地传统民族舞蹈 ‘Ori Tahiti 波利尼西亚文化庆典 A celebration of French Polynesian culture

ÂŠ matarevaphoto;.com

赤

裸的双脚紧贴地面，上身保持平稳，舞者笑靥如花地不停扭动着腰臀，这些舞步和扭臀动作看起来如此轻松简单。年轻的莫瑷妠•美奥杜伊（Moena Maiotui）站在帕皮提图阿塔广场的舞台上独舞。观众们不断为她精湛的表演鼓掌喝彩。唯有行家才能体会到舞艺到此地步的不易。这是2011 年海伊瓦艺术节的颁奖晚会。此赛事在大溪地传统民族舞蹈‘OriTahiti中最为隆重。莫瑷妠•美奥杜伊凭着这一段独舞摘得了最佳女舞者的桂冠。今晚她再次为观众献上这一曲让她夺冠的舞。在欧洲史前，即在航海探险家们发现这片新大陆之前，‘Ori Tahiti在大溪地社会中就占有举足轻重的地位。宗教仪式，欢迎宾客，农耕或换季，战后和解……人们载歌载舞来庆贺这些重要的时刻。‘Ori Tahiti是波利尼西亚自身的精髓。

1797年3月第一批基督传教士登陆大溪地，时隔不久大溪地舞就被下了“禁令”。传教士们把这种舞蹈形容为“淫荡的娱乐活动”。有些舞蹈得到他们的允许，有些却令他们嗤之以鼻。伦敦传教会的传教士威廉•埃利斯（William Ellis）尤为欣赏上层社会年轻女孩跳的“呼拉舞”。他描述到 “ 舞姿很平凡缓慢，却如此轻松自然，不费任何力气，舞

TAHITI DISCOVERY

者便可使舞蹈变得优雅迷人”然而其它某些舞蹈使他们倒胃，“提起这些舞都会让人觉得太淫亵或不雅……他们认为神灵掌控了他们的舞姿并使之不道德和放荡” 。在其出版的《寻找昔日波利尼西亚》中，威廉•埃利斯甚至形容到“令人恶心的表演”。被欧洲传教士皈依基督教的国王波马雷二世（Pomaré II）在1819年下了一条禁令。他以废除“旧陋习”的借口禁止人们跳传统舞。1880年6月 24日，波利尼西亚被纳入法国领土，大溪地也必须庆典法国国庆日。1881年7月14日，首次tiurai（7 月大溪地）节庆活动得以举行。这些节庆仪式自此以后就演变成了大溪地海伊瓦艺术节（Heiva i Tahiti）。被掀掉了禁令面纱和推翻了诬控，大溪地舞得以重新搬上舞台，用来庆贺节日。首批舞蹈社团在殖民统治高官和公众前翩翩起舞。

归根返祖 1956年大溪地舞被正式恢复。小学教员马德莲娜•姆阿（Madeleine Moua）兴风破浪地组建了第一个舞蹈社团海伊瓦Heiva。她把遮身的长袖传教士连衣裙弃之一边，重新使用“tāpe’a titi ”（用塔巴或椰子壳制成的胸衣）和“more ”（用大溪地特有的 pürau树皮纤维制成的短裙）。

马德莲娜•姆阿重新编排和规范了舞步及手势，并鼓动数位艺术界的老专家一起合作。其意为寻找遗失已久的最古老的波利尼西亚文化遗产，并重新赋予它高贵的语言。他们规范了传统舞步，并证实大溪地舞没有任何不道德性。人们返祖归根。自1970年以来，大溪地舞蹈团在世界各地巡演，使这种美丽的艺术扬名四海，并让世人认识昔日的波利尼西亚岛屿。绰号“椰子”的海伊瓦舞蹈团成员让•侯塔候塔（Jean Hotahota）给舞蹈输入了一种新的锐气，他用舞蹈传播波利尼西亚大地和它的文化。舞蹈重新成为波利尼西亚身份的象征。波利尼西亚人经常使用的传统舞蹈动作总共有四组。“ōte’a”源自于古代武士，它让人联想到蓄势待发的紧绷的弯弓。这种舞蹈动作古时候只有男人才能跳，现在也被女舞者采用。“Hivināu”是男男女女面对面围成两个的同心圆，然后同时顺时和逆时针方向转动，舞姿让人联想到日常生活中的捕鱼和耕种场景。由打击乐器组成的乐队通常被舞者们包围在中间。“Pā’ō’ā”是指男女舞者们盘膝而坐拍打地面或大腿。舞者们轮流着成对双双舞起，

舞姿性感。这种舞蹈动作源自于社会最上层，以示人铺张盛大的婚礼场面。“’aparima”是突出日常生活场景的手势：椰奶和菜肴的准备制作过程，捕鱼等。欲在海伊瓦艺术上胜出，舞蹈团必须用准确的舞姿来表达和诠释这些动作。

一种活艺术对于舞蹈动作，大家莫衷一是。有些舞蹈团忠于保持大溪地舞的传统风貌，有些却赞成适度地使之现代化。怎样才能确定现代化程度，却又不让它失去原始风情呢？有人指出大溪地舞一旦现代化就会变得僵硬呆板，有人则认为不断修改动作会使之失去原始的身份。‘Ori Tahiti不应该是呆板的，而是随着它的根基大地－波利尼西亚的形象而不断演变的。比如创于1988年的大型大溪地舞蹈表演在穆马答•罗班松（Tumata Robinson）和泰基•唯郎特（Teiki Villant）的指挥下完成。此舞蹈主要在波利尼西亚式的室外场地演出：自由奔放的节奏和舞姿，梦幻唯美的舞台光效和烟雾，绚丽多彩的舞衣，肢体动作的美感让舞者感觉不到是在进行传统舞蹈演出。

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>‘Ori Tahiti也游走于意愿和传统文化的传承之间。

年轻人必须学习这一艺术并把它代代相传下去。正如其它各种形式各异的艺术和创造一样，它是波利尼西亚人的身份的延续，也是发展和现代化的渴望。O Tahiti 舞蹈团的负责人玛格丽特•赖（Marguerite Lai）说到 “‘Ori Tahiti是一种活艺术，因此它才具有现在的样子。它是波利尼西亚心脏的一部分。波利尼西亚人用‘Ori Tahiti来表达用文字表达不了的东西。这种炽爱代表了我们，它也属于我们。 ”社会学家和《大溪地毛利人》的作者布鲁诺•索拉（Bruno Saura）认为跳大溪地舞是证明自己对传统文化的忠诚热爱。无可置疑，海亿瓦舞蹈和合唱比赛是‘Ori Tahiti 的盛典。20多个由72至160 人组成的舞蹈团在评委面前登台表演。这是波利尼西亚人的节日，对于舞者来说这也是 “ 实践 ‘ O r i T a h i t i 的最高境界”。Tamariki Oparo舞蹈团的负责人皮埃罗•法瑞尔(Pierrot Faraire)认为“‘Ori Tahiti能使年轻人敢于在图阿塔这个神秘的波利尼西亚舞台上向众人展示自己 ”。 Heikura Nui舞蹈团的团长伊利提•侯都（Iriti Hoto）则觉得 “跳舞是为了证明自己是毛利人” 。

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但是比heiva更重要的是，‘Ori Tahiti是一种日常活动。过节了，人们跳舞；庆典时，人们跳舞；贵客临门时，人们起舞相迎。就如同旧日时光，舞蹈只不过是生活的一部分罢了。 ‘OriTahiti的实践得到了非常大的发展。舞蹈学校如雨后春笋般越来越多，并吸引着不同年龄的爱好者。民众对其热爱的膨胀度甚至超越了国界。据波利尼西亚艺术文化宫统计，全球有6000多个大溪地传统舞蹈社团。波利尼西亚被公认为大溪地舞蹈的摇篮。此外文化宫迎接来自世界各地的希望提高舞蹈水品的学生，并开设高质量的短期舞蹈培训班。2011 年的最佳女舞者莫瑷妠•美奥杜伊曾多次被邀请到不同国家教授大溪地传统舞蹈，指导和活跃高级班。这样的成功如何解释？爱梦幻的皮尔如特•法瑞尔赞赏到“大溪地舞是一种异常优雅的舞蹈”。被禁忌之后，‘Ori

Tahiti重新成为了波利尼西亚文化象征

的载体。文/Marie Leroux

'Ori Tahiti

A celebration of French Polynesian culture With feet flat on the ground, the shoulders are very still, yet the hips move, move, and keep on moving. An angel’s smile is on the dancer’s face, as if these movements were easy and natural. The young Moena Maiotui is alone on the giant stage of the To’ata performance space in Papeete. Screams of support break out from the audience as she executes some moves that are much more difficult than others. It is 2011 for the awards of the dancing and singing competitions of the Heiva i Tahiti, the most prestigious event in the world of ‘Ori Tahiti. Moena Maiotui was crowned best dancer of the competition, and in front of the audience, she re-performs the dance that allowed her to win her title. During pre-European times, before the first contact with foreign explorers and visitors, 'Ori Tahiti occupied an essential role in the life of the community. Religious ceremonies, welcoming guests, agricultural or seasonal rituals, or reconciliation after war were all celebrated with dance. 'Ori Tahiti is the absolute essence of French Polynesia. However, the first Protestant missionaries who arrived in Tahiti in March 1797 wasted no time prohibiting the dance. They deemed it as “lascivious entertainment.” Some dances had their approval, but not others. William Ellis, a missionary from the London Missionary Society, admired the hura, a dance performed by young girls of high rank: “Their movements were usually slow, but always with ease and naturally executed. It seemed effortless for the dancers to be gracious and appealing.” However, the other dances revolted him: “They were too obscene or indecent to even describe (…). They

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believed their dances came from the gods who watched over their degrading immoralities. Ellis described the dances as “repugnant exhibitions” in his book of three volumes, Polynesian Researches. King Pomare II, converted by the missionaries, established a code in 1819. He announced the prohibition of “ancient and bad habits.” The dance was forbidden. However, on June 24 1880, French Polynesia was annexed by France. From then on, the French national holiday was celebrated in Tahiti. On July 14 1881, the first Tiurai (July in Tahitian) took place, which eventually became known as Heiva i Tahiti. The dance was once again allowed during these celebrations and the prohibition was lifted. The first groups performed in front of colonial authorities and the public.

A return to roots It is in 1956 that the dance truly made a comeback. An elementary school teacher, Madeleine Moua, shook everything up when she created her troupe, Heiva. Gone were the missionary dresses, those long-sleeved, floor length boxy garments that completely covered the body. She brought back the tāpe’a titi (bras made of tapa cloth or coconut shells) and more (skirts made of bark fibres of a Tahitian tree, the pūrau). Madeleine Moua codified steps and gestures, then sought out people from the artistic community who could give them meaning.

It involved retracing the most ancient French Polynesian tradition and restoring it to its former glory. Madeleine Moua made had to convince people that there was nothing immoral about Tahitian dance. They were witnessing a return to roots. By the 1970s, troupes were on world tours to share this art and the islands of French Polynesia in a new light. Jean Hotahota, known as Coco, a dancer from the Heiva troupe, gave the dance new momentum. He used it to laud French Polynesian culture and islands and the dance became the epitome of Polynesian identity. The gestures that Polynesians use are directly related to four original types of dances. The 'ōte'a was originally a war dance, and the name implies the tension of a bow and arrow (te'a in Tahitian). Once only reserved for men, women now perform the 'ōte'a The hivināu consists of dancing in two circles rotating in opposite directions, one inside the other. The steps re-enact the gestures from everyday life, such as fishing and planting. The drummers are usually in the middle of the dancers. As to the pā'ō'ā, the dancers slap the ground or their thighs while seated. Couples get up one at a time and perform oftensuggestive moves. This dance can be traced back to the higher classes to show that a marriage was properly consummated. The 'aparima emphasizes hand and arm movements that mimic scenes from daily living, such as preparing coconut milk, cooking, or fishing. In order to compete at the famous Heiva i Tahiti, dance groups must precisely interpret these specific choreographies.

“You dance to show that you are Ma’ohi.” However, beyond the Heiva, ‘Ori Tahiti is a daily practice. During celebrations, there is dance. After celebrations, there is dance. To welcome a prestigious guest, there is more dance. Simply put, just as in ancient times, dance is part of life. The practice of ‘Ori Tahiti has greatly evolved. There are numerous schools of dance for every age. The rise in its popularity has exploded outside of French Polynesia. According to the Artistic Conservatory of French Polynesia, more than 6,000 troupes all over the world dance ‘Ori Tahiti and consider French Polynesia to be the Mecca of traditional Tahitian dance. Incidentally, the conservatory welcomes numerous foreigners who regularly come to Tahiti to take renowned workshops. Moena Maiotui, best female dancer of 2011, is often invited to different countries to give ‘Ori Tahiti workshops and present Master classes. How to explain this success? Pierrot Faraire, dreamily adds, “Tahitian dance is a very beautiful dance.” After once being prohibited, ‘Ori Tahiti has reclaimed its place as one of the primary vectors of French Polynesian cultural identity. Marie Leroux

A living culture There is debate between choreographers who wish to remain loyal to traditional movements and those who wish to modernize 'Ori Tahiti without altering the basics. The question is about how much modernity can be integrated into the dance without it becoming unrecognizable. Some state the dance is at risk of fossilization. Others worry about the loss of its identity through too much fusion. Therefore, 'Ori Tahiti is not frozen; instead it shifts with the Polynesian society where it is rooted. For example, the Grands ballets de Tahiti, which started in 1998 under the direction of Tumata Robinson and Teiki Villant, primarily performed outside of French Polynesia with unrestrained choreographies, light effects, smoke machines, vibrant costumes of all colors, and beautiful bodies. This broke away from the spontaneity and spirit of participation in traditional shows. 'Ori Tahiti oscillates between the transmission of knowledge that young people need to learn and pass on since it encompasses the perpetuation of their Polynesian identity, and the desire to evolve and embrace modernity, like all art forms and creativity. Margarite Lai, Director of the troupe O Tahiti E, explains that, “'Ori Tahiti has become what it is today because it is a living culture. It comprises the heart of all Polynesians. With 'Ori Tahiti, Polynesians express what words cannot convey. It is a passion that represents us, that belongs to us.” For Bruno Saura, sociologist and author of Tahiti Ma’ohi, dancing 'Ori Tahiti reflects an attachment to traditions. The highlight of 'Ori Tahiti is without a doubt the singing and dancing competitions of the Heiva. More than twenty troupes, each comprised of 72 to 160 dancers, get on stage and perform in front of the judges. This is the occasion to celebrate in French Polynesia and for some dancers, it is the absolute moment to excel at ‘Ori Tahiti. For Pierrot Faraire, Director of the troupe Tamariki Oparo, “'Ori Tahiti allows young people to open themselves up, to meet people, to perform on To’ata, French Polynesia’s mythical stage.” Iriti Hoto, Director of the troupe Heikura Nui, believes that,

TAHITI DISCOVERY

大溪地珍珠珍珠皇后的伟大历史 Tahitian Pearls : The great history of the queen of all pearls © Kirk Aymax - collection Tahia Exquisite Tahitian Pearl

961年，在土阿莫土群岛，用来生产首批大溪地人工养殖珍珠的首批珍珠贝在这里接受了嫁接。在此之前，被欧洲皇室美誉为 “珍珠皇后” 的大溪地黑珍珠，只有在被捕捞来做成母贝制品的珍珠贝体内才被偶然发现。据说要打开一万个珍珠贝才能觅得一颗珍珠。嫁接这一举动在当时被认为是个狂妄的赌注。50多年后的今天，大溪地珍珠成为了南太平洋岛屿最具有代表性的象征之一。1971年9 月，威廉•李得（Willam Reed）娓娓述来 : “黑珍珠……您从来没有见过黑珍珠吗？‘黑色’只是一种泛指。事实上珍珠有着无穷的色彩，从乌黑到浅灰色，它们时而泛着铜色，时而散发着粉色，时而呈现出蓝色或绿色的晕彩。它们的形状和大小也不尽相同：浑圆或椭圆，梨形或泪状，扁平或是丰满。落手之处光滑柔和，它们璀璨耀眼，让人惊叹不已。手指慢慢游动于其中，简直是一种妖艳的享受……我久久地凝视着，每一颗珍珠在掌心轻轻

滑动，一种极致到不可言喻的美！”

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举世无双的珍珠威廉•李得是波利尼西亚珍珠养殖业的先锋者之一。在他的细述中，我们翻开了首批大溪地人工养殖珍珠的历史。1961年，大溪地农业部的蚌类和渔业主管让•马力•多马得（Jean-Marie Domard），请日本植嫁接术员诸井中六（Churoku Moroi）在希库埃鲁环礁岛的泻湖给827个黑蝶珍珠贝进行了人工嫁接。这是首次尝试给黑蝶贝植入珍珠核及嫁接组织。赌注，疯狂！四十年后，不少于十吨的大溪地人工养殖珍珠在这里出口。与其说这是一种疯狂的举动还不如说这是一次让人惊叹的冒险之旅。它恰恰证实了土阿莫土群岛泻湖的神奇故事。在这个汇聚着与众不同的珍珠贝的泻湖，一种能够孕育出世界上独一无二的珍珠的软体动物，用无穷的色彩和光芒诠释着波利尼西亚泻湖之美。

上帝的才能

波利尼西亚人和珍珠贝生生相息，他们每天共享同

在波利尼西亚的古老神话中，传说珍珠贝是除鱼之外的海底万物之父和之母的女儿。母亲奥喀娜是所有活珊瑚的神灵，父亲乌阿如是所有沙石的神灵。他们给予了这种珍藏细腻珍珠母的牡蛎Te uhi生命。奥喀娜交代她的女儿 “你可以在这个王国的每一条鱼的彩袍上获取一种颜色来作为你的首饰，我将磐石，海底和海岸赐予你作为居所。” 珍珠贝由此占据了陡峭的礁崖、绚丽的珊瑚、神秘直升海面的礁石、一览无遗的海底沙滩，然后等待。爱情就这样驱走了懒惰。传说繁殖与和平的神灵奥如，为了波拉波拉的公主 , 骑着彩虹来到人间将珍珠母贝赠于人类。在数种欧洲语言中，madreperla, perlmutt, perlomatro, perlamutras, paarlemoer, pārlemor, masa perlowa, mother of pearl…珍珠贝是珍珠之母。在1750左右，人们这样记载“珍珠贝是一种可以孕育珍珠的鱼类”。珍珠贝一词源自于波斯语“nakkar”，意味拥有多种颜色的装饰品。波斯人并不知道大溪地珍珠贝的存在，否则他们肯定会

饰他们的节日盛装，也可以点缀头发和耳垂的珍珠

将“nakkar”定义为：能够重新创造光芒的珍宝。

的珍珠贝。

一片天地。前者自古就极为尊重这些既可以用来装贝。在欧洲人发现这片乐土之前，当食不果腹时，人们也会捕捞珍珠贝以改善伙食；当有幸觅得珍珠时，他们会炫耀于众人；波利尼西亚人也把母贝壳磨制成武士的胸盔、各种仪式的服饰以及所有日常用品：刮刀、鱼钩和狩猎刀……

冒险家和商人但是很快，远处海平线上出现的帆船打破了波利尼西亚这片水域的平静。那些并不是他们熟识的双体独木舟，而是方正的欧洲帆船舰队。早在16世纪，航海家们就发现了这片南太平洋岛屿。怡人的气候，丰富的自然资源和友善的原住民，他们的家园是文明世界人们想像中的世外桃源。除了所有乌托邦的幻想，这片土地也有宝岛之誉。因为在诸多岛屿的避风港内，生长着一种类似于牡蛎的独一无二

> 历史依旧以为世人熟知的疯狂旋律前进着：1767

年英国人瓦力司（Wallis）踏上大溪地的土地，全球珍珠贝和珍珠市场仅仅用一代人的时间产生了前所未有的发展。不到100年之后，1885年，自然科学家布松•布兰德（Bouchon-Brandely）依然在赞叹： “这是一种不可置疑的自身的美，

大溪地珍珠母坚硬，质地均匀，透彻而彩虹般绚丽，边缘黝黑；它在光线的照射下能够融合所有的颜色，真如爆发的五彩火焰，它绽发的光辉是那么妩媚而和谐” 。很快，在成为 “ 潜水之岛 ” 之前，土阿莫土的小屿就因为它的珍珠贝而被誉为“珍珠之岛”。

不论天然或嫁接，都是自然的 “天然珍珠”，在科学用语上是珍珠贝在完全没 © philippe bacchet

有任何人为因素的参与下孕育的珍珠。但在修得正果之前，珍珠贝会被一个裹着贝肉的小小的异体侵入。贝肉促使珍珠囊形成并分泌出无数层珍珠质将这个异体包裹起来。人工养殖珍珠是同样的生物原理，只不过人们把一个称为“珍珠核” （拉丁语nucleus）的小小的珠子和一块用贝肉做的嫁接组织，植入贝的珍珠囊内。接着黑蝶贝就开始分泌由文晶石和贝壳硬蛋白构成的珍珠质把珍珠核层层裹起来。不论是天然还是养殖的，珍珠和钻石、蓝宝石、红宝石、祖母绿及其他稀有宝石一样，被宝石专家们并列归类于世界顶级珠宝并对其研究。19世纪的自然学家们总结到：美丽珍珠的光泽和色泽不仅仅依赖于珠核周围的珍珠质厚度，也取决于它的种类及生存环境。

美其名曰“黑珍珠” 大溪地珍珠正如世界上的美酒：即便产自于同一片土地，不同的酒庄，不同的葡萄园，佳酿不尽相同。珍珠和它的颜色具有同样的特质：同一个贝能够产出异样颜色的珍珠。假如珍珠的主色是黑色，明暖的棕色和绿色会是它的边界色，人们可以欣赏到难以想像的繁多的色彩组合。

黑珍珠。……看啊，欣赏吧！何尝人们会想到，自两个多世纪以来它就深深吸引着世人。您看不到它如冬日暖阳般的，金银色的光芒吗？或如黎明来临之前的苍穹一般的湛蓝？珍珠的诞生和许多因素息息相关：水质、盐物质、水温、生物基因、年龄、所承受的嫁接次数和被选择的嫁接组织体……这些多重因素让人们揭开了珍珠的神秘面纱，然而它还保留着无数的秘密等待我们去探索。

和它的生存环境一样脆弱用父女关系来形容珍珠养殖者和黑蝶贝一点也不过分：用爱心去养育如此娇弱的生命。水温升高了，他把她转移到凉爽的水域；暴风骤雨或台风来临之前，他将她沉入安静的深海。艳丽的她知恩图报：彩虹般起伏的色彩，生动优雅的形态，低调妖娆的妩媚，简单粗犷的精致；妖艳却如明月般清新，简约张扬的优雅，却又奢侈……她被公认为真正的自然宝石，镜中之美人，深海之华丽；人们揄扬她

女人味十足的丰满，高贵的，散发着神秘的光芒；充满妖娆的魅力……1929年保罗•克洛蒂尔（Paul Claudel）这样确切地形容她： “‘她’不灼眼，

不燃烧，仅用她的清爽和活力轻抚着人们的双眼，身体和灵魂……” 她是如此地奢华、唯一、光芒四射、贵气十足、缤纷珊阑、神秘、娇柔却又坚固。大溪地珍珠不仅使人们陶醉于环礁岛屿最纯净的泻湖中，更让人畅游于这个见证无数的上千年历史中：当为其着迷的人们尝试着发现她的秘密时；当这片岛屿还鲜为人知时；当欧洲人发现南太平洋时；当珍珠贝征服世界时，拥有一颗大溪地珍珠，便是在岁月的茫茫大海上，乘着风向，顺着洋流，一起分享这不同寻常的历史。从颈脖到手腕，再到耳际，这一自然奇迹自始至终深深地吸引着世人，它折服了众神，倾倒世界上最美丽的女人。文/Patrick Seurot

Tahitian Pearls

The great history of the queen of all pearls The first grafting of pearl oysters that created the first cultured Tahitian pearls took place in 1961 in the Tuamotus. Until then, discovering a Tahitian black pearl, called the “Queen of Pearls” by royal European courts, was deemed a miracle for whoever found it in pearl oysters harvested for mother of pearl, also known as nacre. The odds of finding a Tahitian pearl was one out of every 10,000 opened oysters! At the time, grafting was considered a crazy gamble. More than fifty years later, the Tahitian pearl had become one of the most powerful emblems of our South Pacific islands. In September 1971, William Reed stated, “Black pearls…Have you ever seen a black pearl? “Black” is a general term. In fact, the pearls provide an infinite range of colors, from the darkest ebony to the palest grey, with reflections that are bronze or pink or blue or green. There also vary in shape and size: perfectly round or oval, pear or tear-dropped, flat or voluptuous, yet always soft to the touch and splendid in the light. They are a marvel to the eyes, a pleasure for the fingers….I stare at them for long moments, sliding them across the palm of my hand. Absolutely sublime!” It is with these words that William Reed, one of the pioneers of pearl culture in French Polynesia, takes us into the history of the first cultured pearls. In 1961, in Hikueru atoll, Jean-Marie

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Domard, then head of the animal husbandry, farming, pearl, and fishing industries, oversaw Japanese grafter Churoku Moroi perform the first operations on 827 oysters. Moroi introduced a nucleus and a graft into the pearl oyster Pinctada margaritifera of the cumingi variety. It was a long shot. A crazy risk. Forty years later, no fewer than ten tons of cultured pearls had been exported! Crazy? Rather, it is a surprising adventure that echoes the formidable history of the lagoons of the Tuamotu Archipelago, which is the environment for exceptional mother of pearl. This simple mollusk produces the most unique pearl in the world, with nuances and radiance that tell the story of all the magnificence of Polynesian lagoons.

A gift from the gods In Polynesian legends, mother of pearl is the daughter of Okana and Uaro, the mother and father of all that lives in the sea except fish. Okana, the spirit of live coral and Uaro, the spirit of silt and sand, gave birth to Te uhi, the oyster shell that protected this delicate mother of pearl. It is said that Okana confided in Te uhi: “You will wear a shiny piece of each of the fish that live in my realm.

For a home, I am giving you the rocks and underwater plains and the sea coasts.” The pearl oyster then took over the plunging reefs and visible coral rocks, the mysterious shallow depths and the plateaus of transparent sand, and waited. It was love for a princess of Bora Bora that freed this idleness. Oro, god of peace and fertility, came down to earth riding a rainbow to offer humans the oyster shell. In most European languages—madreperla, perlmutt, perlomatro, perlamutras, paarlemoer, pärlemor, masa perlowa, mother of pearl… mother of pearl is the pearl’s mother. Around 1750, it was written that, “mother of pearl is the fish that conceives the pearl.” Mother of pearl in French is nacre, which comes from the Perisan nakkar, which means an ornament of many colors. Persians were not aware of Tahitian mother of pearl. If they had been, they would have surely described it as something that redefines light. Polynesians, who are in harmony with their environment, have always respected this pearl oyster that embellished their festivities, their hair, and their ears. Before contact with Europeans, they fished for pearl oysters to supplement their diet during times of food scarcity and wore pearls whenever they found them. They crafted mother of pearl shells to create warrior breastplates, ceremonial garb, and all kinds of objects for daily use: scrapers, fishing hooks, fly swatters…

Adventurers and traders But this Polynesian world would soon see its waters traveled and its horizons filled with large sails; not the sails from their own long double pirogues, but the square sails of the first European ships. As early as the 16th century, sailors discovered the islands of the South Pacific that would soon become legendary the world over, thanks to the climate, various resources, gentle gracious inhabitants, and the idea that they were in paradise. After these utopian reflections, the islands became famous for economic reasons due to the presence of this unique mollusk found within the aquatic havens of many of

the islands. It looks like an oyster, yet with exceptional mother of pearl that sometimes sheltered a gem, which was one of the most beautiful pearls in the world. History was set in motion with the frantic pace for which it is often known. After Wallis first stepped foot on Tahiti in 1767, it did not even take one generation before global trading of mother of pearl and pearls would take place. Almost 100 years later in 1885, naturalist Bouchon-Brandely was still enraptured: “Absolutely gorgeous, Tahitian mother of pearl is hard, consistent, transparent, iridescent, and darker around the edges. Light makes the nacre burst with fire and all the colors of the rainbow, and these brilliant reflections come together in a shimmering, delicious harmony.” The Tuamotu atolls, quickly reputed for pearl oysters, became referred to the Pearl Islands before becoming known as the diving islands.

Natural or grafted, always genuine A “natural pearl” in scientific terms means it is entirely natural, without any human interference with the pearl oyster. However, to get to this point, it was necessary that a foreign body penetrate the mollusk and take with it a little piece of the pearl oyster’s mantle, initiating the birth of a pearl sac and the production of layers of mother of pearl around it. It is the same process for cultured pearls except with human intervention: a tiny nucleus is inserted with a fragment of mantle, the graft, into the pearl sac, and then the oyster cloaks them in layers of mother of pearl composed of aragonite crystals combined with an organic substance, the conchyoline. Gemologists study natural and cultured pearls on the same level as diamonds, sapphires, rubies, emeralds, and other first class precious stones. According to 19th century naturalists, the pearl’s beauty, radiance, and orient (luminosity and depth) depended not only upon the number of layers and concentric thickness surrounding it, but also on the environment and type of pearl oyster. © g. lebacon

Black is only in the name Tahitian pearls are akin to the world’s best wines. From one vineyard to another, from one wine-maker to another, even from the heart of the same soil, the taste differs. As to the pearl and its colors, it has a similar magic. From the heart of the same lagoon, a pearl issued from the same oyster shells will be different. If black is at the center of the choices of colors, brown and green are the warm, clear nuances that complete it, with all the in-between variations of hues imaginable. A black pearl…look at it and admire it. Do you think a pure black pearl would have fascinated the world for more than two centuries? Do you see all the golden and silver reflections, glowing like a winter sun or azure like the sky as it stretches across the deep night? Pearls come into being due to the water, the salt, the temperature, the genetic background of the animal and its age. The number of grafts it has already undergone, as well as the type of graft used, fuels the mysteries surrounding the pearl. We know a lot about the pearl; however, there is so much more to discover. The pearl oyster is to a pearl farmer what a daughter is to a father: raised with love, pampered, and always extremely fragile. If the water temperature rises, the farmer takes the oyster to a cooler area. If there are storms or cyclones in the forecast, then he will immerse the shell into the deep where the waters remain calm. This gorgeous mottled shell certainly gives back in return. You can see

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its rippling, iridescent colors; its graceful, lively shapes; its subtle, captivating charm; its extraordinary natural finesse; its sensuality, its spectacular reflections of clarity, or even still, the fusion of bare elegance and bold lavishness…it is esteemed as a true national treasure, a mirror of beauty, the splendor of the depths of the ocean. It is lauded for its feminine roundness, its noble radiance, its luminescence shrouded in mystery and its captivating, charismatic personality. In 1929, Paul Claudel perfectly described the pearl: “It doesn’t shine. It doesn’t burn. It touches you with a fresh and vibrant caress for your eyes, your skin, and your soul.” As such, the pearl is radiant, gorgeous, unique, amazing, aristocratic, different, mysterious, delicate and strong, all at once. The Tahitian pearl not only plunges you into the pure lagoons of the archipelagos, but also into a history dating back thousands of years, during which humans have been fascinated by the pearl and have tried to unveil its secrets. It goes back to when the islands were still unknown, to when Europe discovered the South Pacific, to when mother of pearl would win over the world. To own a Tahitian pearl is to move through time, over water, along the spirit of the wind in order to share this page of Tahiti’s unusual history. To wear pearls around the neck, wrist, or on the ears is proof of a natural wonder that has always fascinated humankind, awed the gods, and bedazzled the most beautiful women every day. Patrick Seurot

大溪地购物 Shopping in Tahiti

TAHITI DISCOVERY © Kim Akrich

ÂŠ philippe bacchet

ÂŠ g. lebacon / tahiti tourisme

坐拥5个群岛，千姿百态的波利尼西亚有多少个岛屿就有多少张面孔。人们在尽情享受全新且独一无二的购物时会发现，每个群岛拥有自己特有的技艺、美食、艺术和手工艺。

欧

洲探险家在18世纪末第一次登陆大溪

道转瞬即逝的波荡的涟漪。汹涌澎湃的海浪撞击

地，想像着将发现同一岛屿的您来到大

在珊瑚礁石上，激起千层浪花。捡贝壳的人依然

溪地时会惊叹不已。正如世界其它地区，大溪地

重复着那个永恒不变的传说。放眼望去，聆听着

也经历了演变和实现了现代化。可是法国航海

小鸟的吟唱，满眼尽是葱郁、原始的秀丽山峦。

家布甘维尔（Bougainville）于1768发现的那

相反，在同样让人流连忘返的波利尼西亚首府帕

个大溪地是否已经完全消失了呢？根本没有这回

皮提，只需漫步于熙熙攘攘的，充满生机的市中

事！在小岛的泻湖上，Va’a这种用于捕鱼或比

心，您便会情不自禁地被南太平洋这座小城的魅

赛的波利尼西亚式摇摆船，依然轻快地划出一道

力所倾倒。这里和别处不同。

TAHITI DISCOVERY

漫步市场

到大溪地及其岛屿的特色美食、生鱼、半熟煎金枪

充分利用一天的时间在帕皮提享受购物吧！在这里

猪肉。从纯粹购物角度来讲，千万不要以为这些

人们找不到任何一座类似巴黎、纽约或东京那些并

都是随处可见的。帕皮提市场浓聚了五个群岛的缩

无二致的，冷气十足的，光可鉴人的购物大厦。当

影，是波利尼西亚灵魂的一部分。唯有在此人们才

然，和世界其它城市一样，您也可以在帕皮提的商

能发现这种独特的魅力。

业街买到免税的世界名牌香水和皮包。但是帕皮提市场是世界上独一无二的。除了法语和英语两种主

鱼、菠菜椰汁鸡肉或一种当地的猪肉菜肴－包菜烩

波利尼西亚的5 大财富

要语言之外，在市场人们讲的是roaromata’i （背风群岛的语言）、pau’motu（土阿莫土群岛

除了特殊的地貌和人情，波利尼西亚的每个群岛都怀

的语言）、marquisien（马克萨斯群岛的语言），

有自己的才艺。比如在男人大地Henua

当然还有史上华人的语言——客家话。您一定会大

有着使人眩晕的悬崖峭壁和肥沃的山谷。当地的每个

有身处异国他乡的感觉。逛帕皮提市场是一次让人

居民（马克萨斯人）都是木雕和石雕的能工巧匠。

Enata，那里

大开眼界的愉快享受，不容错过！土阿莫土群岛的岛民保莫土人（Pau’motu)和住在这也是和“本地人”交流的好机会：人们擦肩而过

波利尼西亚最东南端的芒加瑞瓦人(Mangaréviens)

时偶遇朋友或邻居，游客也会在人群中发现他的导

是采集珍珠贝和珍珠的师祖。他们雕刻和打磨精致

游在购买全家人的食物……在市场人们也可以品尝

的珍珠贝和珍珠首饰。

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> 保莫土人也是出色的渔夫，他们捕获的泻湖或深

海鱼装饰着市场鱼贩们丰富的鱼铺。在享有天然蔬菜摇篮之美誉的南方群岛，人们善于用露兜树叶和其他棕榈叶编织各种篮筐、帽子、扇子、和其它日常生活用具。在五个群岛之中，从广阔富饶的高地势岛屿到最偏远的环礁岛屿，人们不厌其烦地把所有的财富都带往帕皮提：菠萝、诺丽果、香草、藤织物、木雕、石雕或珍珠贝雕刻艺术品，tīfaifai（波利尼西亚图案拼布）和其它手工艺品。恐怕用整本杂志都列不完魅力群岛及其118个岛屿的丰富资源，在这里只能给您做一些购物引导。您可以尽情地流连于在帕皮提市政府，海滨和波利尼西亚议会之间的缤纷的大街小巷内，来发现和挑选您喜欢的纪念品。

五香十色的市场因为大溪香草硕大的个头，浓郁的芬芳和香醇的口感，人们误以为波利尼西亚是香草的发源地。其实大溪地与此没有任何历史渊源，因为史上的第一次香草种植是发生在美洲大陆。这种学名为“大溪地香草”的当地香草，在南太平洋烈日下风干了数周之后酝酿出一种极其浓郁的香味： pictures : lucien pesquié

这种美食可以随身携带，可以在风干后加入糖内使用或直接品尝饱满的豆荚内的香草豆。香草使人垂涎，诺丽果就差之甚远。这种神奇的植物遍布波利尼西亚的平原和丘陵。为了说服自己喝一口，人们便说这是上帝的恩赐。不过上帝也很会戏弄人，他赐予了诺丽果众多的药用功效，这瘦长的灌木却结出如此奇异的果实，以至于被称为“狗苹果”，大概是为了让人们忽略它的口感吧。海鱼就没有必要找任何借口来获得人们的青睐了：波利尼西亚的泻湖内挤满了大大小小的，口味不一的鲜美海鱼。除了果香鱼咸，我们岛屿还拥有特殊的手工艺艺术，您可以在市场找到更具有保留价值的纪念物品。

TAHITI DISCOVERY

首饰和珠宝店

们的手腕，颈脖和耳朵，一种别样的异国风情。然

在大溪地，被称为“servitude”的小巷里藏满了

价格是否昂贵？”福音中的圣马修回答到：“天国

各种咸咸甜甜的美食。这里也汇集了整个波利尼西

就好似一位寻找美丽珍珠的商人，一旦觅得一颗天

亚的财富，

价的珍珠，他转身就回去卖掉他所有的一切，然后

其形态独特、举世无双、神圣且有着

鲜为人知的故事。它们主要是大溪地养殖珍珠和它的聚宝箱——珍珠贝，还有来自于高地势岛屿或珊瑚环礁岛的珍贵木料。自大溪地养殖珍珠问世以

而打造这些首饰需要一定的技艺和才能。“您问到

买下珠子。”天堂就值这个价！

波利尼西亚的回忆

来，就一直被误称为“黑珍珠”。其实大溪地珍珠

的颜色变化多端，从祖母绿到深邃的幽蓝，它倾倒

在法国著名画家亨利·马蒂斯（Henri

着世人，其中也不乏日本珍珠专家御木本。1965年

的眼中，波利尼西亚的形态和颜色是如此珍贵。在

他高度评价到“皇家级别，且适合与钻石镶嵌”。

玻璃窗高楼林立的灰濛濛的大都市，相信这些记忆

也许全世界的珠宝商都听取了御木本的意见，但是

肯定会让您念念不忘。

大溪地的手工艺者们却创意地使用泻湖特有的材料

不要忘了给您的居所打扮一新。岛国的艺术家们拥

来衬托这个一瑰宝。这些极具岛国风情的工艺品具

有满足不同审美观的艺术品。身怀家传绝技，手

有不同的形状和图案。珍珠贝雕刻，木雕和骨雕等

工艺者们编织着大块绣满了各种不同图形的拼布—

艺术品被脱胎换骨成了独特的首饰，它们点缀着人

tīfaifai。

TAHITI DISCOVERY

Matisse）

culture

惟妙惟肖的图案让人联想翩翩：飞翔的海燕，畅游的雀鲷鱼或是微风轻轻地从māpe(大溪地板栗树)树梢拂过。在小巷的拐角处，一位微笑的艺人会向您推荐他的珍珠贝雕刻品，来自于土阿莫土深幽泻湖的纪念品。或者，一个马克萨斯的家庭会向您展示产自于自家雕刻室的木雕工艺品：具有纪念意义的 tiki 或曾用于宗教仪式的unu ，高大精致的漆木雕画上了风格化的人像和错综复杂的几何图案。在所有的陈列架上，聚集了我们岛屿最精致细腻的手工艺术：不可思议的古玩，用珍珠贝和编织物结合成的扇子，椰子壳做的杯子和酒杯，旗鱼嘴形的珍珠贝书签，鲸鱼骨笔座，花梨木发钗……更有一些见证远古历史的作品：敲头棍、木雕短浆。尤克里里活泼愉快的高弦音混合着噪杂的车流马龙声。这具有节日气氛的乐曲抒唱的h是当地特色的流行歌曲，音乐伴着散发在空气中诱人的烧烤香味，或更浓郁的香脆油炸小吃的味道，它们轻挠着过客的鼻孔。早上10点，当您离开市场的时候，您兴奋的大脑将保留充满纷繁活动的记忆。在世界上哪个购物大厦，您曾经有过同样的切身感受？文/Patrick Seurot © philippe bacchet

TAHITI DISCOVERY

Shopping in Tahiti

With its five archipelagoes, French Polynesia has just as many facets as there are islands to discover. Each island group has its own specific areas of expertise, culinary specialties and arts and crafts that are well worth discovering during one of the most unique shopping experiences in the world. You may be surprised landing on the island of Tahiti, perhaps imagining that you’ll be finding the same island as the European explorers when they arrived for the first time towards the end of the 18th century. Tahiti, like most places in the world, is developed and modernized. However, has the Tahiti that French explorer LouisAntoine de Bougainville discovered in 1768 totally disappeared? Not at all! The va’a, Polynesian fishing or racing outrigger canoes, still fleetingly etch the lagoons with their trails of sea foam. On the reef, where the ocean bubbles and breaks, seashell seekers describe timeless scenes. Curves of wild hills are visible from every shore, where foliage of a thousand shades of green whistles to the songs of birds. In the much-desired French Polynesian capital, however, all it takes is to stroll through the heart of Papeete and its vibrant local economy to succumb to the charms of this small city in the South Pacific, where ultimately, nothing happens the same as elsewhere.

Taking the time to go to market Take a day to shop around Papeete. Nothing here resembles an air-conditioned, sterile, shiny mall such as you would find in Paris, New York, or Tokyo. Of course, you can buy duty-free perfume or brand-name purses in any of the main street stores, just as you can in any other country. However, Papeete’s market is one of a kind. Languages spoken here besides French and English are raromata’i (the language of the Leeward Islands), pau’motu (the language

TAHITI DISCOVERY

of the Tuamotu Archipelago), Marquesan (from the Marquesan Islands), and of course, Hakka, the language of the historic Chinese community. There will be nothing too unfamiliar. Going to the market is a joy not to be missed. It will be an occasion to chat with the locals. It is a place to run into people, to use as a meeting point for friends or your tour guide, who may be there to shop with family and neighbors. At the market, you can try delicious specialties from Tahiti and the islands, fresh fish, seared tuna, fafa chicken or pu’a chou, a local pork pot roast. As far as regular shopping, you won’t find better elsewhere. What you will find around Papeete’s market is representative of the five archipelagoes, a part of the soul of Polynesia. This particular magic can only be found here! Each archipelago of French Polynesia, besides the uniqueness of its geography and people, has its own way of doing things. For example, the Marquesans, residents of Henua Enata, the Land of Men, consisting of islands with steep cliffs and fertile valleys, are the masters of wood and stone sculptures. The Pau’motu people of the Tuamotu atolls, and Mangarevans from the extreme southeastern tip of French Polynesia, are highly skilled harvesters of pearls and mother of pearl, which they engrave or create fabulous jewelry. The Pau’motu people are also expert fishermen. It is their catch from the lagoon and the sea that line the culinary stalls of the market. The people from the Austral Islands, the fertile vegetable region of French Polynesia, are skilled weavers who work with pandanus and other types of palm fronds to create baskets, hats, fans, and other objects for daily use.

From these five archipelagoes, people bring the richness of the islands to Papeete, whether from the large fertile high islands or faraway atolls: pineapples, noni, vanilla, weaving, wood, stone, and pearl sculptures, tīfaifai quilts, and other types of art. It is not our intention to list every resource of all 118 islands of these marvelous archipelagoes here, as there would not be enough room in this magazine. However, we would like to provide a few tips to help guide your shopping, which will flow to the pace of your feet as you stroll through the colorful aisles of the market or the traditional boutiques of downtown between the city hall, the sea front, and the Assemblée de Polynésie française (The Assembly of French Polynesia).One would believe that vanilla was created in French Polynesia, that its aroma, the size of the pods and the purity of its taste make it a child of Tahiti and her islands. Historically, the first batch of vanilla planifolia came from the American continent. However, this local vanilla is known though its scientific name as the variety vanilla tahitensis. Once dried in the South Pacific sun for weeks, it develops extraordinary flavors, which are a treat to take home and dry in sugar or savor through peeling back the plump grains of the pulp. Whereas vanilla is gourmet, nono is less so. This is the miracle plant from the plains and hills of French Polynesia. People say it is a gift from God in order to persuade themselves to take a mouthful. God is a prankster, for he gave the nono, a lanky shrub bearing a fruit nicknamed “dog-apple,” all its medicinal properties that exist undoubtedly to help us forget the taste… The fish certainly do not need such tricks to be appreciated. The lagoons in Polynesia are resplendent with fish of all tastes and sizes. Besides sweet or savory delicacies, the market offers longer lasting souvenirs with all the unique arts and crafts of our islands.

Jewelry Whereas the avenues and streets here in French Polynesia, called "servitudes," are bursting at the seams with sweet and savory delicacies, it the rarest commodities emblematic of the richness of Polynesia that offer you exceptional, unique, and prestigious products resplendent with unusual history. We are talking about the cultured Tahitian pearl and its setting, the mother of pearl, as well as precious types of wood from the high islands or rare raised atolls. As soon as their inception, Tahitian cultured pearls, incorrectly called “black pearls” since their colors vary from the deepest emerald greens to the most regal blues, have fascinated amateurs. It is the Japanese from the Mikimoto industry, experts in cultured pearls, who confirmed in 1965 that the pearls were “majestic and worthy of being set in diamonds!” Even if jewelers the world over have listened to them, Tahitian artisans never lack ideas to showcase the pearls within the context of natural materials from the islands and the lagoons, such as with sculpted mother of pearl, wood and bone designed with the shapes and motifs original to the islands. This artistry transformed into extraordinary jewelry reflects tremendous skill and talent that will adorn your wrist, neck and ears with exquisite beauty. You may ask yourselves if it is expensive. The answer is in the Gospel of St. Matthew: “The kingdom of the heavens is akin to a merchant seeking beautiful pearls. Once having found an expensive pearl, he sold all that he owned so that he could buy it.” This is the cost of paradise!

Souvenir of Polynesia The colors and shapes of Polynesia that were so dear to the famous French painter Henri Matisse, will without a doubt, touch you forever. They will cross your mind as well, in contrast to the grey of large cities and high glass walls. Think then about brightening up the inside of your home. To do this, the arts and crafts of the archipelagoes have all kinds of objects for all tastes. Within the intimacy of their homes, artisans design tīfaifai quilts out of large pieces of material embroidered into a patchwork of shapes such as a bird in flight, a roaming fish, or the whistle of the wind through the leaves of the huge Tahitian chestnut trees, the māpē. Around the corner of an alley, an artisan with a beaming smile may show you engraved mother of pearl shells, souvenirs from the depths of the Tuamotu lagoons. Elsewhere, a Marquesan family may propose wood sculptures created in their own workshop: tikis or monumental unu, which are tall, fine art paintings in carved wood with stylized human figures or intricate geometric patterns. On every stall, there are surprising curios. There are fans made of mother of pearl and woven pandanus. Goblets and cups fabricated from coconut shells may be placed next to the most delicate designs of our islands: bookmarks in mother of pearl shaped like a swordfish, pencil cases out of whale bone, hair clips in rose wood…or designs that also existed long ago, such as a Marquesan brainteaser puzzle or a sculpted paddle. The cheerful tone of sharp ukulele strings sneaks in and out of the traffic noise. These festive tunes from a repertory of popular local songs accompany the aroma of a local delicacy on the grill or frying in a pan, arousing the senses of passersby. It is 10am and when you leave the market, your spirit is alive with the exciting souvenirs of everything you just saw and experienced. Which mall in the world has already impressed you in such a way? Patrick Seurot

TAHITI DISCOVERY

全波利尼西亚唯一的概念商店！

大溪地-中国流放至天堂 Tahitian-Chinese, Exile towards paradise

culture

1865 年，第一个中国人到达法属波利尼西亚。他的后代构成了我们岛屿上多元民族与文化的一个重要组成部分，在这里，我们将对其间150年包含了流亡、剧变和成功的发展历史做一个回顾。

861年，美国内战的爆发导致了世界范围的棉花短

花、蔗糖和咖啡种植的先驱，早期的传教士早已捷

缺。在接下来那年9月，爱尔兰冒险家威廉·斯图

足先登。这就是说，斯图尔特将被人永远铭记的是

尔特获取了Atimaono地块（大溪地岛上唯一一块平

他将大批中国劳动力带到大溪地。今天，Atimaono

坦的土地），将那里变成了巨大的棉花、蔗糖和咖

已经没有了威廉·斯图尔特棉花种植园的任何痕

啡种植园，并命名为波利尼西亚棉花有限公司。之

迹，取而代之的是Olivier Breaud的18 洞国际高尔

后，它成为了苏亚雷斯种植园（葡萄牙金融家奥古

夫球场。

斯托·苏亚雷斯在这个种植园进行投资，斯图尔特成为了他的个人代表)。最后，这个种植园被称为大溪地棉花和咖啡种植有限公司。让斯图尔特极为沮丧的是，大溪地人对为他干活没有一丁点的兴趣。为了寻找廉价劳动力，斯图尔特带来了一批中国“ 苦力”。1865年

2月，由1018个中国汉子组成的第

一批华人劳工，从广东省抵达。1868年，美国南部各州恢复了棉花生产，导致棉花价格下降，加上斯图尔特自身遭遇的财政困难，使他经营的棉花帝国崩塌沦陷。与大多数人的想法相反，斯图尔特并不是棉

TAHITI DISCOVERY

第一个华人群体斯图尔特破产后， 320名华工决定留在大溪地，娶波利尼西亚本地女子为妻。1874年大溪地的总人口为 27340人，其中华人约500人。1881年，华人人口下降到 447人，随后在 1892年继续下降至 320人。许多幸存至十九世纪末的华人劳工转行至手工艺产业或贸易领域。二十世纪初，一个真正的华人群体在法属波利尼西亚初具规模，其中绝大多数为客家人（85%）和广东人。

中国男人与大溪地女人结婚的主要原因很简单：这里根本没有中国女人。中国女性直到1904年才开

暂时的离别……

始到达大溪地。华人群体在两次分别以男性和女性

目前，在大溪地华人人口中，绝大多数是客家人，

为主的移民潮中发展壮大，1907年到

1914年间大

他们最初都是通过1909至1914年和1921至1928 年两

约 2500名华人来到大溪地，1921年到1928年间到达

波连续的移民潮到达大溪地的。最大规模的一次中

的华人移民数量更多。这一年所有外国人都必须登

国移民潮始于1909年，持续到 1914年。1911年，中

记，也就成为了第一次已知的大溪地人口普查年。

国南方的一批革命者带头反抗清朝发起辛亥革命，而在此之前，清军已经镇压了多次反清起义。连年

小商贩、面包师、厨师和农民……

战乱使很多中国人背井离乡。导致广东客家人向外迁移去别处寻找新生活的还有一些其它因素，如当

Atimaono种植园关闭后，华人成为了小商贩、面

时国内遭遇的洪水和饥荒等自然灾害。孙中山被推

包师、厨师和农民。政府通过重税费制度，鼓励他

选为中华民国第一任大总统之时，迁移潮稍稍平

们远离城市贸易行业，而是在郊区从事农业或做家

息，其后又于1921年至 1928年之间再次兴起。从中

仆。欧洲商人和大溪地混血商人将华人视为威胁，

国出发途经悉尼抵达大溪地，是中国移民的传统路

处处提防，这在当时是对很多外国商贩的典型态

线。这种迁移的本意只是暂时离别他们的家园，等

度。因此，中国人被迫缴纳特殊税种和更高的税

赚够钱后再回家开始新生活。当时社会在欧洲殖民

收，对于获取商业许可证也极受限制。在

20世纪

者和当地被殖民者之间冲突不断，少数群体要在这

50年代，倾独势力极力推动反华政策，势力中的激

里立足并不容易。华人群体的成员们将自己与外界

进分子感到担忧，因为他们认为华人群体在经济上

隔离开，而他们经济上的成功，又促使了社会对“

正在变得过于强大。

中国威胁”的恐惧。

TAHITI DISCOVERY

现已成为大溪地首富家族 1947年，一千余名华人移民（主要为广东籍）回到香港，搬回位于广东的祖籍村庄定居。随后，法属波利尼西亚开始禁止中国移民。1964年，法国总统戴高乐承认了中华人民共和国并与之建交。同年，法国正式承认了生活在法属波利尼西亚的华人地位。此前，这些华人大多数都持有台湾领事馆签发的护照，政府的这一决定迫使他们要在中国大陆和法国之间选择自己的归属。1964

年，法国政府关闭了所有法属波利尼西亚的华人学校，认为这样有助于华人融入本地社会。1973 年，蓬皮杜总统任内的法国政府发出

1973年

月 9日第73-42号法令。根据这项新法令，所有出生于法属波利尼西亚的华人都是法国公民，拥有投票权，但法国当局要求申请法国国籍的华人更改姓氏，让他们看起来更加法国化。今天，华人群体掌控着法属波利尼西亚整个商业社会的重要部分。讽刺的是，很多目前在大溪地最为富有的家庭，最开始的身份只是中国“苦力”。文/Laurance Alexander Rudzinoff © philippe bacchet

TAHITI DISCOVERY

Tahitian-Chinese

Exile towards paradise The first Chinese arrived in French Polynesia in 1865, and their descendents comprise a major part of the diverse people and cultures present in our islands. Here is a recap of a 150 year-old historical adventure that includes exiles, upheavals, and successes. In 1861, the eruption of the American Civil War led to a worldwide shortage of cotton. In September of the following year, an Irish adventurer by the name of William Stewart acquired Atimaono (the only tract of flat land on the island of Tahiti). He transformed it into a very large cotton, sugar and coffee plantation and named it the Polynesian Cotton Coy, Ltd. Afterwards, it became the Soares Plantation (Stewart became the personal representative of Portuguese financier Augusto Soares, who had invested in this plantation). Finally, this plantation became known as the Tahiti, Cotton and Coffee Plantation Coy, Ltd. To Stewart’s great dismay, the Tahitians were not the slightest bit interested in working for him. Looking for cheap labor, Stewart brought a group of Chinese workers, “coolies,” to Atimaono. In February 1865, the first Chinese laborers, a group of 1,018 men, arrived from the province of Guangdong. In 1868, the American southern states resumed their cotton production, causing cotton prices to drop. This, combined with the fact that Stewart was having financial difficulties, led to the collapse of his cotton empire. Contrary to what most people think, Stewart was not the pioneer producer of cotton, sugar and coffee. The early missionaries were. That said, he will always be remembered for bringing Chinese labor on a regular basis to Tahiti. Today, nothing remains of William Stewart’s cotton plantation at Atimaono. The 18-hole Olivier Breaud International Golf Course occupies most of that land.

First Chinese community After Stewart’s downfall, 320 Chinese laborers decided to remain in Tahiti and marry local Polynesian women. In 1874, the population of Tahiti was 27,340, of which 500 were Chinese. Then in 1881, the Chinese population dropped to 447, followed by an additional drop in 1892 to 320. Many of the surviving workers who remained at the end of the nineteenth century resorted to craft industries or trades. In the beginning of the twentieth century, a real Chinese community took shape in French Polynesia. This Chinese community was overwhelmingly Hakka (85%) with some Cantonese. The main reason why Chinese men married Tahitian women was quite simple: there were no Chinese brides available. It was not until 1904 that Chinese women began arriving in Tahiti. The Chinese community evolved during two great waves of male and female immigrants, resulting from about 2500 Chinese from 1907 to 1914, then more who arrived between 1921 and 1928. This was the year when all foreigners had to register, as well as the year of the first known Tahitian census. After the Atimaono plantation closed, the Chinese became small traders, bakers, cooks and farmers. They were encouraged to avoid working in a city trade and to instead work as farmers and domestics in rural areas due to an enforced heavy tax and fee system. European traders and “demi” (mixed race Polynesians) businessmen perceived the Chinese as a threat, and were suspicious of them, which was a typical attitude towards many foreign trading minorities at that time. Consequently, the Chinese had special taxes and higher fees imposed on them as well as limited access to business licenses. In the 1950s, pro-independence forces pushed for hostile policies concerning the Chinese. The pro-independence activists in Tahiti were annoyed because they felt the Chinese were becoming too powerful economically.

A temporary departure... These days, the vast majority of the Chinese population in Tahiti is Hakka. Originally, they arrived in Tahiti during the two successive immigration waves between 1909-1914 and 1921-1928. The most intensive Chinese immigration to Tahiti began in 1909 and lasted until 1914. Many Chinese fled their country at the start of the 1911 Chinese Revolution when a group of revolutionaries in southern China led a successful revolt against the Qing Dynasty. The Qing army stopped several attempts before this. Other factors that caused the Hakka Chinese people of the Guangdong province to migrate in search of a better way of life were natural calamities, floods and famine. The first elected president of the newly declared Republic of China was Dr. Sun Yat-Sen. Then, migration stopped for a while and picked up again between 1921 and 1928. The Chinese Hakka arrived in Tahiti via Sydney, Australia. A round trip starting from China and stopping in French Polynesia was the traditional route for Chinese immigration. This migration was originally intended to be a temporary departure from their homeland with the purpose of earning enough money to return home and start a better life. The formation of this minority community was not easy. They were within a society that was plagued with conflict between European colonizers and the local colonized population. Members of the Chinese community isolated themselves, and with their economic success, they fostered fears of the “Chinese peril.”

Now the wealthiest families in Tahiti In 1947, about a thousand Chinese immigrants (mostly Cantonese) returned to Hong Kong and resettled back into their native villages in Guangdong. Subsequently, Chinese immigration to French Polynesia was forbidden for Chinese nationals. In 1964, French President General Charles de Gaulle recognized the Popular Republic of China. In that same year, France officially recognized the Chinese living in French Polynesia. The majority of these people held passports issued by the Consulate in Taiwan. At this time, the Chinese of French Polynesia had to choose between belonging to communist China or France. In 1964, the French government closed all of the Chinese schools in French Polynesia. The government believed this would help integrate Chinese and Polynesians. In 1973, the French government, under President Georges Pompidou, issued the decree 73-42 of January 9, 1973. Under this new decree, all Chinese born in French Polynesia were French citizens with the right to vote. However, the French administration asked the Chinese who applied for citizenship to change their Chinese surname to a more French-sounding name. Today, the Chinese community controls a substantial part of the business community throughout French Polynesia. Ironically, many of the wealthiest families in Tahiti today started out as Chinese “coolies.” Laurance Alexander Rudzinoff

谢阁兰 Victor Segalen 大溪地与中国之间谢阁兰（Victor Segalen）是法国海军医生、民族志学者、考古学家、作家、诗人、探险家、语言学家和文学评论家。他的研究及出版中的两个挚爱分别是大溪地和中国。 Portrait de Victor Segalen © dr

谢

阁兰1878年1月14日出生于法国布雷斯特

在法属波利尼西亚待满两年后，1906年4月，谢阁兰

市，1919年5月3日，他被人发现死在了布列

回到法国，在那里遇到了法国伟大的作曲家德彪西

塔尼于埃尔戈阿的树林里。他的一只脚上带着伤，

（Claude

手上握着一本《哈姆雷特》，十分怪异的死亡现

听到的音乐。1907年10月，谢阁兰在水星音乐杂志

场。有人认为他死于自杀……

上撰文《逝去的声音：毛利音乐》献给德彪西。谢

在一所教会学校念完高中以后，谢阁兰被波尔多海军医疗中心录取。从 1898年到 1902年期间，他于海军医学高等专科学校医学系学习。这位不喜欢大海的布列塔尼水手在他短暂的海军生涯中，发掘出

Debussy），与他谈论起了自己在岛屿上

阁兰也为德彪西写下了俄尔普斯的歌剧脚本，但后者最终也未能将其谱成乐曲。

1909-1914以及1917年的中国

了两个亮点：法属波利尼西亚和中国。谢阁兰与中

1908年，他开始学习中文，然后作为海军见习译员来

国的爱情故事开始于1902年，他当时在前往大溪地

到中国。在这第一次行程其后不久，1909年，他就与

就任医生的路上，因为伤寒病被困在了旧金山。于

瓦赞（Gilbert de Voisins）再次前往进行考古探险。

是在旧金山，他发现了唐人街。他简直被民间戏曲和中文书写给迷住了，我们相信就是在那时，他买

1914年春，谢阁兰带领法国考古队进入四川省，随

回了纸和毛笔，开始学写汉字。

行的还有让·拉蒂格（Jean

Lartigue）和瓦赞。

他们研究汉代（公元前206至公元220年）墓冢和

1903-1905年的法属波利尼西亚

早期中国佛教肖像及碑文。在二十世纪初，这些精

1903年，谢阁兰作为海军医生被派遣到法属波

地方，千百年来从未移动一丝一毫，完全不同于欧

利尼西亚，在法国著名画家保罗·高更（Paul

洲，所有杰作都被珍藏在博物馆中。这个法国考古

Gauguin）死后不久抵达大溪地。1903年9月2日，

队的目标是研究跨越了

在高更个人物品的第二次售卖会上，谢阁兰用他微

这些研究揭开中国艺术的起源。对于谢阁兰而言，

薄的海军医生薪水，买下八十多件物品。他购买了

这些古佛像是古代中国最真实的表达。与同时期其

绘于 1894 年的《雪中的布列塔尼村庄》，现收藏

他探险者不同，他只是满足于欣赏和拍摄这些奇

在巴黎奥赛博物馆。这是高更一直随身带到马克萨

观，而完全反对将这些物件带离它们的家园，运回

斯群岛的那幅画，陪伴他直到死去的那天。此外，

欧洲。谢阁兰摄影档案现保存于巴黎吉美博物馆，

他也买下了高更用过的最后一个调色板，目前也保

包含远征中拍摄的一千多张黑白玻璃底片。

存于巴黎奥赛博物馆。

TAHITI DISCOVERY

妙的大师级石刻仍遗落在野外，仍然在它们最初的

400多年的汉代，希望通过

文/Laurance Alexander Rudzinoff

Three works of Victor Segalen

谢阁兰的三部作品

1907: Les Immémoriaux In this book, Victor Segalen describes the destruction of the traditional religion and customs in Tahiti after the arrival of the Missionaries and Western civilization. Written from an imagined Maori perspective, this is the story of the evangelization of Tahiti, which took place between 1797 and 1830.

1907：《远古人》在这本书中，谢阁兰描述了西方传教士和西方文明对大溪地传统宗教及习俗的毁灭。从想象中的毛利人角度着眼，书中描绘的是大溪地岛上1797年至 1830年之间发生的的传教故事。 1910：《勒内莱斯》

1910: René Leys A thriller set in Peking, Victor Segalen places himself at the center of a diary called The Book That Never Was while maintaining his French identity and artistic sensibility as he immersed himself in Chinese language and culture. This novel is loosely based on real events he witnessed in Peking during 1912, the last days of the Ch’ing dynasty.

这是将故事背景设置在北京的一部惊悚小说，谢阁兰将自己置身于一本称为“乌有之书”的日记中心，依然还是法国人，依然拥有艺术的感性，却完全沉浸在汉语和中国文化的氛围内。此小说内容描写中可以看出1912年作者在清朝最后几天中亲眼目睹的事件影子。 1912-1914：《碑》这是谢阁兰自身美学原则的最真实体现。这些短诗模仿了中国墓碑上篆刻的铭文。《碑》探讨了友谊、爱情、欲望、性别角色、暴力、异国情调、差异性和自我的主题。

Portrait de Victor Segalen, 1909 - Georges-Daniel de Monfreid (1856–1929)

1912-1914: Stèles This is the truest embodiment of Segalen’s aesthetic principles. These short poems emulate Chinese inscriptions on stone tablets placed at tomb sites. Stèles explores themes of friendship, love, desire, gender roles, violence, exoticism, otherness, and selfhood.

Victor Segalen, Between Tahiti and China Victor Segalen was a French naval doctor, ethnographer, archeologist, writer, poet, explorer, linguist and literary critic. Two countries are at the heart of his passion, research, and work: Tahiti and China. Victor Segalen was born on January 14, 1878 in the French city of Brest. On May 23 1919, he was found dead in the woods of the city of Huelgoat in Brittany. It was a strange death. He was discovered with an injured foot and a copy of Hamlet in his hand. Some believe he committed suicide... After his secondary studies in a Jesuit school, Segalen was admitted to the Naval Medical Service in Bordeaux. From 1898 to 1902 he studied at the Naval Medical College and the Faculty of Medicine. During his brief naval career, this Breton sailor who did not like the sea, had two major posts: French Polynesia and China. Segalen’s love affair with China began when he was stranded in San Francisco due to an attack of typhoid fever in 1902. He was on his way to Tahiti to assume a medical position. There in San Francisco, Segalen discovered Chinatown. He was enchanted by the folk opera and his discovery of Chinese writing. It is common belief that this is when he purchased paper and a calligraphy brush and started learning to write Chinese.

French Polynesia in 1903 -1905 In 1903, Segalen was dispatched to French Polynesia as a naval doctor. He arrived in Tahiti shortly after the death of the famous French painter, Paul Gauguin. On September 2 1903, Segalen, with his meager naval doctor’s salary, purchased eighty lots at the 2nd posthumous sale of the effects of Gauguin. He purchased Village breton sous la neige, painted in 1894 that is today housed at the Musée d’Orsay in Paris. This is the very painting that Gauguin kept with him in the Marquesas until his dying day. In addition, he purchased Gauguin’s last palette, which is also currently at the Musée d’Orsay in Paris. After a two-year stay in French Polynesia, Victor Segalen returned to France in April 1906, where he met the great French composer Claude Debussy and spoke to him about the music he heard while in

the islands. In October 1907, Victor Segalen dedicated his article Voix mortes: musique Maori to Claude Debussy, published in Mercure. Victor Segalen wrote the libretto of Orphée-Roi for Debussy but the composer never set it to music.

China 1909-1914 and 1917 In 1908, he started studying Chinese before moving to China as a translator in training for the navy. This first voyage was soon followed by an archaeological expedition with Gilbert de Voisins in 1909. In the spring of 1914, Victor Segalen headed a French archaeological expedition into the Province of Sichuan, China accompanied by Jean Lartigue and Augusto Gilbert de Voisons. They were researching burial mounds of the Han era (206 BCE-220 CE) and early Chinese Buddhist iconography and epigraphy. At the beginning of the twentieth century, these Chinese master stone carvings were left in nature exactly where they originally sat. This is quite a different approach than Europe, where masterpieces are put into museums. The goal of this French mission was to research the Han Dynasty, which spanned over 400 years. Through studying the Han Dynasty, they hoped to discover the origin of Chinese Art. For Segalen, these ancient carved statues in China represented the authentic expression of ancient China. Contrary to the other explorers of his time, he merely wanted to admire and photograph these wonders. He was totally against removing these pieces from their homeland and bringing them back to Europe. The Victor Segalen Photographic Archives are housed in the Guimet Museum in Paris. These archives contain more than a thousand black and white large glass negatives of this expedition that were developed in China and brought back to France. Laurance Alexander Rudzinoff

TAHITI DISCOVERY

罗伯特•温 Robert WAN：献给珍珠的一生 Robert Wan: a life dedicated to pearls 珍珠……我把一生都献给了这美丽的瑰宝”。

“

19世纪末日本人发明的嫁接技术，诸井中六

毋庸置疑，不管是事业还是家庭，温惠仁

（Churoku Muroi）是继承了此技术的一名植核员。

（罗伯特•温）的生活总是如火如荼，但他唯有一个嗜

他于1961年来到波利尼西亚首次给首批黑蝶贝进行

好，那就是大溪地珍珠。他使大溪地珍珠扬名世界，

人工嫁接。当时无人相信大溪地珍珠会成为世界上

感恩图报的珍珠也成就了今日众人周知的罗伯特•温。

最受青睐的宝石之一。无人相信，除了邀请诸井中

源自于广东客家的一个贫寒家庭，温惠仁于1934年在大溪地出生。他的父亲于1904年漂洋过海落脚于这片海岛。在这个拥有11个孩子的家庭，经济来源非常窘迫。求学自然不能成为首要之事，他必须很小就开始工作。贫寒的家境，从事多种职业的经验练就了温惠仁坚毅的性格，年少的他早早就学会了如何打理生意。 84

TAHITI DISCOVERY

六前来的公务员让−马利多马得（Jean-Marie Domard），他毫无质疑地相信珍珠养殖在波利尼西亚的可能性。无人相信，除了在1968年到1975年之间，那十多位竭尽全力建立珍珠养殖场的先锋们。唯一确凿的答案是不确定。温惠仁也不例外。

“我的幸运之岛”

1994年9月23日，因其所培育的高品质珍珠，温惠

1973年起，温惠仁创建了大溪地珍珠公司。次年，他去日本登门拜访了御木本幸吉（Kokishi Mikimoto）之孙子，其祖父曾发明了直至今日我们仍旧使用的嫁接技术。御木本之孙许下了如挑衅般的承诺：要是温惠仁能够生产出高质量的珍珠，他将永远是忠实的买家。同年温惠仁买下由澳大利亚人威廉•李得（William Reed）于1968年在甘比尔群岛建立的珍珠养殖场，并开始他的人工养殖珍珠冒险之旅。

莫布森高级首饰公司引用其大溪地珍珠制作的一款

仁荣获“国际高品质美态艺术大奖”。数日之后，精美首饰，被法国总统希拉克（Jacques Chirac）赠于日本皇后美智子（Michiko）。温惠仁的珍珠点缀着国际要人最优雅的颈脖。他对美和创新的追求，对泻湖环境的保护得到了人们的赞许：1996年他荣获了法国“国家功勋骑士勋章”。

永恒的美 1997年，得于罗伯特•温和美国宝石学院的一次成

1975年，温惠仁为珍珠贝进行了首次嫁接。在 20000个被嫁接的贝中只收获了700颗珍珠。失败？并不其然，他所收获的珍珠质量杰出，1977年御木本兑现承诺买下了整批珍珠。接下来珍珠的收获更规律，品质也更高。自1979年起，公司开始盈利。1984年，猛烈的台风摧毁了让−克劳德•布鲁耶（Jean-Claude Brouillet）位于土阿莫土群岛南马如提岛的所有珍珠农场设置，温惠仁毫不犹豫地买下了这个被他称为“幸运之岛”的环礁岛。他重新采用了由让−克劳德•布鲁耶与其美国朋友赛尔瓦多•阿萨埃尔（Salvador Assael）定位的商业策略“一种新的宝石诞生了”。虽然受气候的不定因素和全球经济环境的影响，但是此举是无可置疑的成功的开端。

功合作，大溪地珍珠赢得了国际认可，并跻身于世界最稀有宝石之列。在美国宝石学院的圣地亚哥总部，部分建筑以罗伯特•温的名字来命名：“罗伯特•温教育分翼”。他资助学院提供丰富多彩的宝石学课程。 1998年是至关重要的一年。温惠仁在大溪地创建了珍珠博物馆。他还根据市场的需求，在香港开设了罗伯特•温大溪地珍珠拍卖会。他给买家们提供了色泽、光泽、体积和形状都无以伦比的高质量大溪地珍珠。随着其珍珠出口量的不断增长，2000年温惠仁被入选法国著名的顶级出口商N°1俱乐部，这是一个汇集法国所有最大出口商的俱乐部。

TAHITI DISCOVERY

> 数周之后，他做出的巨大贡献得到国家认可，并荣获法国国民最高荣誉的“十字骑士勋章”。自此以后，温惠仁更致力追求高品质的珍珠。2001年，他特意关闭了数家珍珠养殖场以保持大溪地珍珠在国际市场的高端地位。2002年3月，他又创新推出罗伯特•温自然风系列首饰以致于推广大溪地天然圈形养殖珍珠。在2002年期间，大溪地罗伯特•温品牌珠宝创立。这是珍珠品牌向首饰，表饰和护肤品等高级珠宝产品的大转向。由于罗伯特•温坚持不懈的推广工作，大溪地珍珠在亚洲市场越来越红火。2010年 9月世界环球小姐的总决赛在中国南部举行，得奖佳丽们的后冠专程由罗伯特•温设计室，用最精美的大溪地养殖珍珠精心打造而成。

从大溪地到中国今日，温惠仁频繁地穿梭于中国和大溪地两地。他的根源如太平洋的泻湖一样让他迷恋。他的生命哲学，真实纯朴的格调，对人生的细品与亚洲文化的禅学紧密相连。不论是东方的智慧还是平衡，他的为人原则融合了道家的风水与西方的实用主义。亚洲，波利尼西亚和欧洲三大文化的交融，体现了他的多重人格。居家时，温惠仁喜欢置身于水，水晶 Miss World China 2010 © dr

和沙子这三种自然元素中。在温惠仁的眼中，它们象征着财富及如泻湖般的纯洁。绿色和白色是他的幸运之色。前者代表着蜕变和平衡，后者则是纯洁的代名词，意味着永无止境。温惠仁的成功不仅靠他的兢兢业业和灵敏的直觉，他不可思议的毅力和沉着更是功不可没。投身珍珠养殖业需要有钢一样的耐心，铁一般的意志和巨大的投资。他总是很低调谦虚地向懂得泻湖、岛屿秘密的人们耐心讨教。失望不等于屈服，而是崛起。这些年来，大溪地珍珠面临的困难从未削减他对这一举世无双的瑰宝的信心。

TAHITI DISCOVERY

珍珠是大溪地的未来 2011年，美国珠宝研究院指定温惠仁以珍珠业界的名义在“宝石的未来和未来的宝石”的研讨会上发言。大溪地珍珠在国际上的地位，让他时刻惦记着大溪地岛屿和波利尼西亚的泻湖。他不正在关注着波利尼西亚的年轻一代吗？2013年5月，年轻的手工艺者们通过“罗伯特•温创意奖”发挥和展示了他们的才能。此活动是热爱珍珠的人们对大溪地珍珠的未来的一种寄托方式。正如温惠仁，40年来始终如一。因为在这些被遗忘在太平洋的小岛上，斯帝文森（Stevenson）说到“梦想源自于岛屿”，温惠仁证实了梦想和热情会让生命重现光辉。文/Patrick Seurot

大溪地珍珠博物馆建于1998年的大溪地珍珠博物座落在大溪地岛的帕皮提海滨。罗伯特温邀请您前来参观世界上唯一的珍珠博物馆。穿越人类历史和不尽相同的文化，它以完整与趣味的方式追溯世界珍珠的历史。理所当然，绝大部分介绍了大溪地养殖珍珠。人们不仅可以了解波利尼西亚珍珠养殖的步骤，更可以欣赏到最璀璨的珍珠，尤其是世界上最大最圆的大溪地珍珠：AAA等级，直径22.5毫米，净重16.1克！

My lucky island

Robert Wan

a life dedicated to pearls “The pearl…I have dedicated my entire life to this fascinating gem.” Without a doubt, Robert Wan has a full professional and family life, but if he had to choose only one passion, it would be the Tahitian pearl. He contributed to building its international reputation, and in return, the pearl made this man into who he is today. Descended from a Chinese Hakka family from the Cantonese province of Guangdong, Robert Wan was born in Tahiti in 1934. His father arrived in the country in 1904. Money was hard to come by for this family of eleven children. Studies were not a priority. He had to start working very young. Despite this, it forged young Robert’s character. He learned very early about business through taking on an array of jobs. His goal was to succeed—alone if possible—as if to take on the challenges that life thrust his way. Churoku Muroi, a Japanese pearl grafter, was an expert in the grafting techniques invented by the Japanese at the end of the 19th century. When he came to French Polynesia for the first time in the summer of 1961 to graft the first oyster shells, no one imagined that the Tahitian pearl would become one of the most valued gems in the world. No one, except Jean-Marie Domard, a civil servant who arranged Muroi’s arrival. Domard was convinced that pearl cultivation was possible in the Polynesian islands. No one, except the dozen “pioneers of pearl cultivation” who, between 1968 and 1975, gave all their energy to create the first pearl farms in which the only thing that was certain, was the unknown. Robert Wan was one of these pioneers.

TAHITI DISCOVERY

By July 1973, Robert Wan had created the company Tahiti Perles. The following year, he went to Japan and met the grandson of Kokishi Mikimoto, who invented the grafting technique that is still practiced to this day. The grandson made a promise that resounded more like a challenge: if Robert Wan produced quality pearls, then he would always be a buyer. With the acquisition that year of the pearl farm created by Australian William Reed in 1968 in the Gambier Archipelago, Robert Wan launched himself into adventure. By 1975, he performed his first grafts. Many long months later, out of 20,000 grafted mother of pearl shells, he only harvested 700 pearls. A failure? Not really, because the harvested pearls were of exceptional quality. Mikimoto honored his promise and bought the entire batch in 1977. The following harvests were more regular and qualitative. By 1979, the business was profitable. In 1984, following a cyclone that ravaged his pearl farm, Jean-Claude Brouillet sold his pearl farms and South Marutea atoll in the Tuamotu Archipelago, his “lucky” island as he liked to call it, to Robert Wan. Wan adapted the flourishing marketing strategy of Brouillet and his friend Salvador Assael from the USA: “A new gem is born.” This was the beginning of undeniable success, despite climate risks or the global economy. On September 23 1994, Robert Wan was awarded the “Golden Laurels of International Quality and Aesthetics,” a seal of approval for the excellent quality of his pearls. A few days later, Jacques Chirac, President of the French Republic, offered one of Wan’s exceptional gems used in a creation by Mauboussin jewelers to Empress Michiko of Japan. His pearls drape the most elegant necks of the world’s famous people. His contributions to beauty, creativity, and respect for the lagoons are recognized. In 1996, he was declared a Knight of the French National Order of Merit. © P.Collignon

Eternal beauty In 1997, due to a rewarding collaboration between Robert Wan and the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), Tahitian cultured pearls benefited from international recognition on the same scale as precious stones. At GIA headquarters in San Diego, some of the buildings are part of the Robert Wan Education Wing, where he finances quite a range of gemology education. 1998 was an essential year. When he created the Musée de la Perle in Tahiti, he launched his own auction sales in Hong Kong in response to market demands for quality pearls with exceptional nuances, shapes, and sizes. His exports increased to the point of joining the prestigious Club of the N°1 Mondiaux Français à l’Export (Club of the N°1 Global French Exporters) in 2000. This organization brings together the best French export companies. A few weeks later, he received the Légion d’Honneur that recognized his accomplishments. Ever since, his support of quality pearls, and more generally, Tahitian pearls, has become Robert Wan’s leitmotiv. In 2001, he halted production on his pearl farms in an attempt to maintain the global price of Tahitian pearls. In March 2002, he launched his Natura collection in order to promote ringed pearls. During 2002, he created the brand Robert Wan Tahiti as a shift to define an array of high-end products such as jewelry, clocks, and cosmetics. In Asia, Tahitian pearls have reached the top thanks to tireless promotional campaigns. As a result, in September 2010, Robert Wan’s workshops created tiaras of Tahitian cultured pearls for Miss World China held in Southern China.

From Tahiti to China Today, Robert Wan splits his time between Tahiti and China. The country of his ancestors has shaped this man as much as the lagoons of the Pacific. His philosophy of life, full of authenticity and gentle pleasures, is Zenbased. His principles integrate elements of Feng Shui, such as wisdom and Eastern balance, but also add European pragmatism. The multiple facets of his personality reflect a subtle blend of Asia, Polynesia and Europe. In his home, Robert Wan surrounds himself with elements such as water, crystal, and sand, which to him represent the abundance and purity of his lagoons. His colors are green to symbolize transformations and balance, and white, the color of purity, which embodies infinity. His success is essentially due to his tenacity and instinct, but also to his incredible perseverance and serenity. Pearl farming requires nerves of steel, a will of iron, and massive investments. Robert Wan has been humble and wise enough to learn everything he could from everyday people who know the lagoon, the islands, and their secrets. Disappointments are not synonymous with resignation, but with bouncing back. The difficulties he encountered in past years with Tahitian pearls did not deter his confidence in this exceptional gem.

Pearls remain the future of Tahiti In 2011, GIA selected Robert Wan to speak at a pearl industry conference entitled, “The future of precious stones and precious stones of the future.” The world ranking of the Tahitian pearl does not stop him from thinking endlessly about Tahiti, the islands, and the lagoons in French Polynesia. In May 2013 via the Robert Wan Design Awards, he focused on young Polynesians in order to highlight the talent and future of young designers. This was also a way to invest in the future of Tahitian pearls—a future that lays in the atolls and the hands of the people who will cherish the pearls. Just as Robert Wan has done for forty years, To quote Robert Louis Stevenson, on these strips of land lost in the ocean, there are “islands of matter of which dreams are made.” Robert Wan knew how to show that dreams and passion can live.

Musée de la perle de Tahiti (Museum of the Tahitian pearl) Robert Wan invites you to discover the history of the Tahitian pearl in one of the unique museums in the world that opened in 1998. The Musée de la Perle is located on Papeete’s sea front in Tahiti. In an inclusive educational manner, the museum retraces the history of pearls in the world throughout cultures and civilizations. Of course, a large part is dedicated to Tahitian cultured pearls in which visitors can discover the stages of pearl farming in French Polynesia and admire some of the most beautiful cultured pearls. In particular, there is the largest round Tahitian pearl of AAA quality that measures 22.5 mm and weighs 16.1 grams.

Patrick Seurot

TAHITI DISCOVERY

作家吉米•李（Jimmy LY ）的传记

追寻客家人的记忆 In search of Hakka identity

50年来波利尼西亚不断接纳着来自中国的移民，此民族逐渐成为其文化的一部

分。与其它移民一样，这个华人群体与多

吉米•李于1941年1月1日在帕皮提出生。

民族、多元文化的集体融合。在20世纪下

他是一个在大溪地安家落户的中国家庭的第

半叶，它历经了重要的经济和人文“突变”

三代。吉米李的祖父母离开中国南部的Xia

。华人在与波利尼西亚人或欧洲人混血后，

Gong Tan迁往南洋大溪地谋生。那时候被正式

逐渐失去了他们最明显的文化特征，在新一

称为“法国驻大洋洲机构”（Etablissement

代华人身上尤为明显。然而近二三十年来，

Français de l‘Océanie）的首府大溪地还

人们留意到一些华侨组织拥有了一个新的

非常安静。童年结束之后，13岁的吉米•李离

身份，它们渴望重新用高尚的文字来表达中

开小岛远赴巴黎在斯坦尼斯拉斯中学继续他

国老祖宗的习俗和传统，特别是中国新年之

的求学之路。再次置身于一个与自身文化迥

际。作为这段历史的一部分及见证人，作家

然不同的世界，年轻的吉米•李面对着另一个

吉米•李用细腻又尖锐的笔触抒写他当下“寻

现实性的差异。

找自我”的历程。

三度背井离乡

TAHITI DISCOVERY

寻找自我然而吉米•李也会回味美好的幸福时光。在《黑加仑话梅和椰子酥饼》的自传中，作者幽默又伤感地回味着记忆中的年少时光。《昔日帕皮提》3让人们置身于一个中国服装市场，正是这些小货摊使他们成了如今出色的商人。在2003年出版的《永别了虾塘》中，吉米•李讲述了他回中国大陆寻找家园之旅。终究，这是一次苦涩的重逢。散居海外的中国华人保留着对家乡久远的回忆，当代的现实使他们忐忑不安。“我是否还能找回，那个犹如从宁静的山水画中走出来的飞檐小村庄？它是否还若影若现在烟雾迷蒙的丘岭之间？”吉米•李感慨地发问到。时过境迁，才 30

年的光阴，这个小村庄早已在经济，人文上

发生了翻天覆地的变化。深圳这个拥有1000万人口的大都市仅在它一小时车程之外。几年之后，在巴黎他结识了来自香港和台湾的，会讲普通话或广东话的中国留学生。他的客家根源反而妨碍了他。由于语言不通，他无法融入这样的社团。被排斥的感觉促使他联合其它同胞于 1960年期间，在巴黎成立了首家大溪地中国大学生同盟会。此举是为了尝试寻找自己的民族根源和更深入了解这种文化的传统。返回大溪地之后，这个最初的冥想使他对客家人文化分裂的历史产生了兴趣：这个定居民族因为历史和经济原因再也不能重返中国故里。吉米• 李疑惑到：在有可能重返故国的条件下，为什么客家人结束了在波利尼西亚岛屿短暂的流亡，取而代之的却是落地生根“正如给岛国命运画上了完整的括号”？在他1996的首篇著作《波利尼西亚的客家人》中，吉米•李提起这个民族的三次迁移史。客家人源始于中国北部，在满族人的侵略驱逐下，他们逃往中国南部定居，主要分布在广东地区。作为游牧民族，他们已经和汉族截然不同，然而在20世纪初，一部分客家人又选择漂洋过海来到南洋波利尼西亚谋生。故事的最后，当下新一代的客家人正在逐渐遗失他们的语言和文化，终止流浪……

TAHITI DISCOVERY

最后成功的融合作为波利尼西亚华人群体的专家，在2011年一次大规模的关于客家移民的国际跟踪调查中，吉米•李被选为大溪地的调查顾问。他更是“Wen Fa”文化协会的创始人之一。2012年他特意创写新作《Wen Fa :寻找遗失的自我》4 来讲述协会的创始渊源。波利尼西亚的华人不但没有关门自闭，就此罢休，他们反而在零售业和农业中占据了举足轻重的地位，尤其是蔬菜的种植。这一代移民的很多家族在生意上取得了成功：大溪地珍珠的生产和出口贸易，保险行业，酒店集团，大型超市，汽车特许经营贸易……甚至时尚行业。20多年以来，由于在当地商业中的崛起，许多来自于中国移民家庭的年轻大学生们远赴欧洲，北美和中国等地进行深造。吉米•李喜欢用中国式生鱼沙拉这个烹饪来隐喻这种融合。中国式生鱼沙拉（poisson cru à la chinoise）是当地菜的衍生，它被添加入更具异国风味的生姜和酸甜腌菜来适应中国人的口味。这也暗示着客家文化可以介入“ 一条艰辛的被默认和接纳的道路，这一名符其实的认可是自然而合乎逻辑的，它也带来了真实的新生，正如一次有可能的救赎。”吉米•李本身的融入过程就合壁了传统和现代，他追寻自我的旅程带他走上了文学和多元文化编辑创作之路。2002年他联手波利尼西亚政治中立人士一起创办了“ Littérama’oh ”杂志。文/Claude Jaques-Bourgeat

玛丽•阿游（ Marie Ah You）：一个家族企业在法国和美国留学数年之后，吉米李回到大溪地。他投身于纺织品印花的家族企业。毕业于与伯克利毗邻的奥克兰艺术和传统工艺大学（加利福尼亚），他与知名的服装设计师母亲一起合作。他们裁制的波利尼西亚连衣裙被公认为最高级的大溪地风情时尚设计。至今人们还可以在帕皮提海滨找到玛丽阿游的高级时装店。

TAHITI DISCOVERY

Portrait of a writer

Jimmy Ly

In search of Hakka identity For over 150 years, French Polynesia has been home to immigrant Chinese settlers. Now part of a multi-ethnic and multicultural community, this population has experienced—like all others— major social and economic changes during the second half of the 20th century. Due to mixing with indigenous Polynesians and Europeans, descendants have gradually lost their most distinctive cultural characteristics, especially among the younger generations. However, over the past 20 or 30 years, there has been a cultural revival initiated by associations who pass on their ancestral heritage through ancient Chinese traditions and customs, especially with Chinese New Year. Author Jimmy Ly, a major player and witness to this era, describes in a sensitive and powerful way the state of this current quest for identity.

Triple exile ... Jimmy Ly was born in Papeete on January 1, 1941. He is thirdgeneration Chinese in Tahiti. His great-grandparents left the village of Xia Gong Tan in Southern China to move to Tahiti to find work. After having spent the first years of his life in Papeete, the quiet capital of what was then still officially referred to as the French Overseas Establishments (EFO), he left his home island at thirteen to attend the Stanislas secondary school in Paris. Within this context of double uprooting, young Jimmy became confronted with another sense of otherness. Some years later in Paris, he frequented Chinese students from Hong Kong or Taiwan who spoke Mandarin or Cantonese. His Hakka roots did not serve him very well, and he had difficulty integrating into this group due to his different language. Feeling excluded, this challenge led him to collaborate with other compatriots during the 1960s to create the first organization of Chinese students from Tahiti. This enabled him to reconnect with his ethnic origins and to better understand his culture’s traditions. © bonbon soeurette ey pai coco

... on a quest for identity However, Jimmy Ly also knows how to evoke happy moments. In the autobiographical Bonbon sœurette & pai coco (Little sister candies and coconut pie), the author combines humor and nostalgia to share memories of his adolescence. He reveals the vastly different world of Papeete of yesteryear with its Chinese shop owners who became masters of commerce. In Adieu l’étang aux chevrettes (Goodbye shrimp pond, 2003), he recounts his journey to continental China and the discovery of the birthplace of his family. It was a reunion filled with bitterness. The memory of a timeless China that the Diaspora retains is faced with a destabilizing contemporary reality. Ly asks himself, “Would I find a village of houses with upturned roofs lost in a landscape of misty hills, straight out of a calligraphy print filled with Chinese serenity?” However, things had indeed changed an hour's drive from the immense city of Shenzhen, which with a population of about 10 million, has experienced dramatic economic and population growth over the past thirty years.

> Once he was back in Tahiti, this first reflection led him to become interested in the cultural breakdown he became aware of within his own community, which is a community that settled due to historic and economic circumstances and that could no longer foresee a return to China. He wondered how a temporary exile to French Polynesia with intent to return to China transformed into a permanent settlement, “like a parenthesis wrapped around an insular destiny.” In his first book published in 1996, Hakka in Polynesia , Jimmy Ly recalls the triple exile of these people. Hakka, originally from Northern China, were driven out during Manchurian invasions. They migrated to Southern China, mainly to the Canton Province. Already distinguished from the Han people due to their nomadism, large numbers of Hakka migrated to French Polynesia at the beginning of the 20th century for work. More recently, the current generation is increasingly losing its language and culture, which puts an end to the exile.

Marie Ah You : a family business After returning to Tahiti after several years as a student in France and the USA, Jimmy Ly has been dedicated to his family’s business in fabric printing. He holds a degree from the College of Arts and Crafts in Oakland, California and collaborates with his mother in her well-known studio. She creates Polynesian dresses and is considered one of the best designers of local Tahitian fashion. The store Mari Ah You is still in business on Papeete’s waterfront.

In 2011, as an expert on the Chinese community in French Polynesia, Jimmy Ly was selected as a resource person in Tahiti as part of a broad international survey over the emigration of Chinese of Hakka descent. He is also one of the founders of the Wen Fa cultural organization, whose history he covered in his latest book in 2012, Wen Hua: In search of my lost identity. However, this French Polynesian Chinese community did not retreat into itself. On top of their enormous contributions to retail and agricultural commerce—notably with vegetable production—many families who are descendants of these immigrants have succeeded in business: the production and exportation of Tahitian pearls, insurance, hotel groups, high-volume stores, automobile sales, and fashion (see table). For the past 20 years, young students from this community study abroad in Europe, North America and China to become highly qualified to work in local commerce. In this regard, Jimmy Ly likes to describe this integration through the culinary metaphor of poisson cru à la chinoise, which is a variant of a local dish with a Chinese bent, using more exotic ingredients such as ginger and sweet and sour vegetables. As such, he implies that Hakka culture could be embarking on the arduous path of a “granted acceptance, which is a logical and natural progression of true recognition that could lead to a genuine renaissance as well as a possible redemption." He himself is an example of a type of integration that seeks to reconcile tradition and modernity. His quest for identity has led him to participate in a literary and multicultural adventure. As such, he contributed to the journal Littérama'ohi, which was founded in 2002 by a politically unbiased group of associated Polynesian writers. Claude Jaques-Bourgeat

TAHITI DISCOVERY

易立亚（Hiria OTTINO）的人生历程是丰富多元的。他出生在大溪地，长期在中国的生活经历让他对这个地方有了深入的理解。除了著有《汉法中医辞典》这样的参考书籍之外，他也是大溪地与中国之间不可或缺的沟通桥梁。目前作为法属波利尼西亚国际关系和国际投资部的负责人，易立亚孜孜不倦地工作，努力加强着这两片他深爱的土地之间的联系。以下是对他的访问。 Laurance Alexander Rudzinoff :

洋地区进行了一系列关于植物学、考古学和人类学

你出生在哪里？

的研究。而我的爷爷奶奶，在法国尼斯小镇上经营

易立亚：

着一家店铺，两人都在二战期间积极帮助犹太人，

我1970年出生于美丽的大溪地。母亲生

于法波的茉莉雅岛，父亲是法国尼斯人。

获得以色列颁发的荣誉奖章。

你父母从事什么样的工作？

你在哪里上的大学？学了什么专业？

我的父亲保罗（Paul

我有两个学位：一个是在中国获得的中医学位，另

OTTINO）是人类学家，热衷

于语言和波利尼西亚人的迁移历史（从亚洲出发，

一个是在法国念人类学获得的。

分两路分别前往至太平洋和马达加斯加）；我的母亲玛丽（Marimari

Kellum）则是一位考古学家，

主要进行太平洋地区的研究。

是什么触发了你对中国的浓厚兴趣？我对那一刻记忆犹新。在我13岁生日时，父亲送给我一本装帧精巧的中法文对照的《论语》作为生日

告诉我们你的外祖父和外祖母是怎样到达大溪地的。

礼物。打开黑色皮革的封面，里面一页页宣纸透着

我的外公出身于一个富裕的美国家庭。上世纪二十

书香。当时我居住过的地方已经包含大溪地、马达

年代初期，20刚出头的他陪父亲登上了自家的四桅

加斯加、巴黎、尼斯、留尼旺岛和纽约，但我还是

帆船（Kaimiloa号），与夏威夷毕世普博物馆一

被那种与众不同的、我从未感受或经历过的东西深

起，驶入太平洋，开始了一段漫长的旅程，对太平

深迷住了。

TAHITI DISCOVERY

你是什么时候开始学习中文的？

候，我的作用可以达到一对五十，但我还是觉得不

我14岁开始在学校选择中文作为第二外语学习。16

够。之后我得到一个机会去了联合国的世界粮食署

岁时我在法国中文比赛中获奖，与其他15名同学一

工作，很快，和现在已经成为我最好的朋友的马库

起前往中国，到北京、上海、广州和西安进行了为

斯（Marcus FORTE）一起，我们做了一个覆盖68个

期两周的参观访问。17岁时我再次回到中国，这一

国家学校的食物供给项目。那个时候，我的力量配

次住了将近十年，一直在学习中文、中国历史、文

比可以达到一对一千两百万。这时，我的父亲病重

化和中医。

然后辞世，留我母亲孤身一人，而我，拿着联合国通行证在全世界到处穿行：阿富汗、埃塞尔比亚、

你刚到中国时生活是不是很困难？

吉布提、厄立特里亚、几内亚、尼泊尔、海地、多

那是1987年，和现在很不一样，很少有外国人。到

米尼加共和国、阿联酋……我在旅途中失去了地域

中国的第一年，我在香港中转要去北京，在香港的

感和归属感。然后我回到大溪地，弗罗斯（Gaston

出租车上把信用卡弄丢了。我对自己的不谨慎感到

FLOSSE）主席政府将我招进了法波主席府的国际关

非常内疚，所以没有把这件事告诉父母，自己想办

系部。

法用所剩的现金活了下来。除去学费和住宿费，我每天所剩的只有一块美元。那一年中我学到了很多

你目前的政府职务和目标是什么？

东西。

目前我负责法波的国际关系与国际投资。

是什么让你下定决心开始撰写中医辞典？

能跟我们说说中国政府授予你的荣誉吗？

那可能是命运的安排。我从某处获知法国的大出版

当然！从1986年我第一次到中国到现在，这的确是

社拉鲁斯有兴趣出版一本中医辞典。我提了一个方

一份很高的荣誉。中国人民对外友好协会在六十年

案后，成为三个候选人之一。经过进一步的深入探

会庆中将我选为九名“老朋友”之一。

讨，我有幸被最终选中。出版社给了我一年的期限，编撰辞典成为这一年中我唯一做的事情。每天早八点到晚九点，我不停的查阅资料不停的写，没

Laurance Alexander Rudzinoff 是大溪地国际航空公司的品牌大使及文化专员。

有给自己留任何休息日。两个月以后，出版社联系了我。他们把我的方案与其他一位候选人的方案重新拿出来讨论对比，希望我调整方向，按照另一个方案进行。然而中医是一个整体，它的形和神是如此紧密的结合在一起，不可分割。在我拒绝这个提议后，出版社放弃了出版计划。我当时很年轻，感到几乎绝望的沮丧，我只差一步就会成为这个著名出版社最年轻的作者了。差不多一个月以后，出版社再次联系我，告诉我他们经过深入研究，认为另外那个方案还是行不通，希望我继续我的工作，把书写完。我完成了！你为什么决定为法属波利尼西亚政府工作？从小时候起，我就希望能做“有用”的工作。这也就是我选择医学的原因。后来我感觉到一对一的帮助和影响太受局限，于是开始教授中医。教书的时 TAHITI DISCOVERY

历史

柯棣华（Kwarkanath S. KOTNIS）

中华人民共和国成立于1949年10月1日。中国政府

先生（1910-1942），印度医生。

认识到国与国之间的外交关系应该首先建立在友谊及文化、体育和经济交流上，于是在1954年建立机构，也就是后来更名发展成为的“中国人民

路易•艾黎（Rewi ALLEY）先生（1897-1987），新西兰工程师。

对外友好协会”。

伊万•阿尔希波夫（Ivan ARKHIPOV）先生（1907-1998），苏联部长会议副主席。

六十周年

奔舍那（Quinim PHOLSENA）先生（1915-1963），老挝前外交部长。

为纪念民间外交六十周年历史，中国人民对外友好协会邀请了350名国际嘉宾和300名国内政治、经济和文化领域的重要人物参加庆典。庆典为期三天，期间习近平主席于人民大会堂发表了重要

桑托斯（Shain SANTOS）先生，巴西律师泰伦齐（Gian Franco TERENZI）先生，圣马力诺前执政官（1988,2000和2006年）

讲话，另外，民间外交博物馆开幕、八集纪录片拍摄完成、出版书刊、发行纪念邮票。600嘉宾出席的电视特别节目也在中央电视台播出。九位中国的朋友友好协会特别选出九位外国朋友，作为中国民间外交六十周年友好交流的突出代表：本尼达（Glenda MULINZI）先生（1924-2010），美国飞虎队飞行员。

让平（Jean PING）先生，加蓬，非盟委员会前主席（2008-2012）。易立亚（Hiria OTTINO）先生，法属波利尼西亚主席府国际关系负责人作为最年轻的荣誉嘉宾，易立亚和他的夫人代表了法属波利尼西亚，在庆典上用中文发表了致辞，并接受了中央电视台新闻采访。

Hiria Ottino

One man but two passions: China and Tahiti Hiria Ottino has led a very interesting life. This son of Tahiti knows China very well, a country where he spent many years. Author of a reference manual over traditional Chinese medicine, he is an essential bridge between Tahiti and China. As a delegate for international relations for French Polynesia in charge of foreign investments, he works tirelessly to strengthen the ties between these two countries he loves so much. Here is an interview. Laurance Alexander Rudzinoff: Where were you born? Hiria Ottino: I was born in beautiful Tahiti in 1970. My Mother was born in Moorea, French Polynesia and my Father was born in Nice, France. What type of work did your parents do? My father, Paul Ottino, was an anthropologist with a keen interest in languages and Polynesian populations (Asia to the Pacific and Madagascar); and my mother, Marimari Kellum, was an archeologist who specialized in the Pacific. Can you tell us how your maternal grandparents arrived in Tahiti? On my Mother’s side, my grandfather was the son of a wealthy American family. In the first years of the 1920s, still in his earlier twenties, he accompanied his father who had commissioned his four-masted schooner (Kaimiloa) to partake on a lengthy botanical, archeological and anthropological expedition in the South Pacific in conjunction with the Bishop Museum of Hawaii. My grandparents on my father’s side were shop owners in the small town of Nice in France. Israel bestowed both of them with the title of Righteous among Nations for helping Jews during the Second World War.

Which University did you graduate from and what did you study there? I have two degrees: one in Chinese medicine that I completed in China, and the other in Anthropology, which I obtained within the French system. What was the catalyst that sparked your interest in China? I remember the moment very well. For the first year of my teens, when I was thirteen, my father offered me a beautiful bilingual French/Chinese edition of the four classics of Confucius for my birthday. It was rice paper bound in black leather. I had lived in Tahiti, Madagascar, Paris, Nice, Reunion Island and New York, but I had never felt so drawn to a world that seemed so different from what I had seen, felt, and lived. When and where did you first learn how to speak Chinese? When I was fourteen, I chose Chinese as a second language. When I was sixteen, I won a national Chinese competition and a two-week trip to Beijing, Shanghai, Canton and Xi'an, China with fifteen other students! I returned to China when I was 17, and stayed almost 10 years to study Chinese language, Chinese history and civilization, and Chinese medicine.

TAHITI DISCOVERY

Was it very difficult for you when you first started living in China? In 1987, times were different. There were very few Westerners. During my first year, I lost my credit card in a taxi in Hong Kong on my way to Beijing. I was so ashamed at my carelessness that I didn't tell my parents, and I managed to live on the cash I had with me. After tuition and dorm fees, I had US$1 per day for all other expenses. That year taught me a lot. What made you decide to undertake such a great task as writing the definitive book on Chinese medicine? It was a question of fate. I read someplace that the big publishing house Larousse was interested in editing a definitive book on Chinese medicine. I proposed a plan. I was selected as one of the three contenders. After another round of discussions, I was chosen to write the book. I had one year to do it, and that is all I did. Read, read, read; Write, write, write, seven days a week from 8am to 9pm. At the end of the second month, my publisher contacted me. After reviewing my proposal along with a counter-proposal by another writer, the publisher wanted me to change my plan and do it as the other person proposed. Chinese Medicine is unity, body and soul. I refused, and then had to give up the writing. I was young and devastated. I lost my chance to be the youngest person ever published by this great publisher. Almost a month later, the publishing house re-contacted me, saying that finally the other plan didn't work, and invited me to finish the book, which I did! Why did you decide to work for the Government of French Polynesia? Since I was a child, I wanted to work for “the greater good.” This is why I chose medicine. Then I felt that one on one, my impact was too small, so I started to teach Chinese medicine. Then the ratio was 1 to 50, yet I still felt that my impact was too small. I then had the opportunity to work for the United Nations’ World Food Program. Quickly, with a now very dear friend Marcus Forte, we managed the school-feeding unit of 68 countries. That was 1 on 12,000,000. During this time, my father fell ill and passed away, leaving my mother alone. I was traveling with a UN Laissez-Passer all over the world: Afghanistan, Ethiopia, Djibouti, Eritrea, Guinea, Nepal, Haiti, Dominican Republic, the United Arab Emirates... I was losing a sense of place and belonging. I returned to Tahiti, and Gaston Flosse’s government took me into the International Relations Department of the Presidency of French Polynesia. What is your current position in the government and what are your goals? Currently I am in charge of the Delegation of International Affairs and foreign investments. Can you tell us about a great honor the Chinese government is bestowing on you? Yes! It is a great honor…from my first step in 1986 up until today. The Chinese People's Association for Friendship with Foreign Countries recognized me as one of Nine friends of China in commemoration of China’s 60 years of public diplomacy. Laurance Alexander Rudzinoff is Air Tahiti Nui’s Brand Ambassador and Cultural Attaché.

TAHITI DISCOVERY

History

The People's Republic of China was founded on October 1, 1949. Aware that State to State relations must first be based on friendship and on cultural, sporting and economic exchanges, China created an organization in 1954 which would later be known as the “Chinese People’s Association for Friendship with Foreign Countries (CPAFFC).”

60th anniversary

China is celebrating the 60th anniversary of its public diplomacy. The Association invited 350 participants from around the world as well as 300 personalities from Chinese political, economic and cultural fields. The celebrations lasted three days, with a meeting at the National Popular Assembly, a long address by President XI Jinping, the inauguration of a Public Diplomacy Museum, the presentation of the upcoming broadcast of eight documentaries, the publication of a book, and the issuance of a new stamp. A special gala evening with 600 invitees was filmed and will be broadcast on national television channels. .

Nine friends of China

To mark the event, nine foreign people were chosen to represent the friendly exchanges during sixty years of Chinese public diplomacy: 1. Mr. Glenda MULINZI (1924-2010) USA, Pilot of the US Flying Tigers. 2. Mr. Kwarkanath S. KOTNIS (1910-1942) India, Doctor. 3. Mr. Rewi ALLEY (1897-1987) New Zealand, Engineer. 4. Mr. Ivan ARKHIPOV (1907-1998), Soviet Union, President Assistant of the Council of Ministers of the Soviet Union. 5. Mr. Quinim PHOLSENA (1915-1963) Laos, Minister of Foreign Affairs. 6. Mr. Shain SANTOS, Brazilian, Attorney. 7. Mr. Gian Franco TERENZI, San Marino, former President of San Marino (1988, 2000 and 2006). 8. Mr. Jean PING, Gabon, former President of the Commission of the African Union (2008-2012). 9. Mr. Hiria OTTINO, French Polynesia, Delegate of International Affairs of the Office of the President. Hiria OTTINO and his wife were able to represent French Polynesia. He was the youngest Guest of Honor. He gave a presentation – in Chinese – at the ceremony and was interviewed for the national television news.