EDITOR'S LETTER The Bard of Fashion This year is my epiphany year. I faced many challenges of editing a magazine. At TAIKER magazine, I tried to use many different angles to describe a story of fashion. In the process, I had to refresh everything about my formal logic of fashion and popular culture. The reason is, once you decide to create a sparkle between West and East you have two points of view from opposite sides of the world. However, the legendary actor James Dean once said ‘’Dream as if you’ll live forever. Live as if you’ll die today.’’ According to this quotation from James Dean, I took my first step to complete the task. The first issue of TAIKER is gong to present how icons of popular culture from the 1950s to the 1990s have influenced fashion. Therefore, you are going to see many images of five icons and one phenomenon I have chosen, each from a different era, in this magazine. However, the icons’ images are not original photos; the images here, rather, present the spirit of the icons in contemporary recreations. Besides, TAIKER is not only a fashion magazine but also includes lifestyle. Therefore, its features are linked with social issues and fashion. On the other hand, fashion is part of popular culture; hence, TAIKER is trying to build a bridge between fashion, music and the film industries. Hope you enjoy TAIKER and I’d welcome your feedback.
CONTRIBUTORS
GRAPHIC DESIGNER
JOURNALIST
JOURNALIST
ILLUSTRATOR
Yen-Fen, Wen
Nika Mamonova
Jennie Barck
Filipa Chagas
Taiwan
United Kingdom
United Kingdom
Portugal
ILLUSTRATOR
PHOTOGRAPHER
PHOTOGRAPHER
MAKEUP ARTIST
Backy Tsai
Chin-An, Lin
Shawn Chang
Tai-En, Chiang
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
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FASHION FEATURE
James Dean & Marilyn Monroe
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They Broke the rules Freddie Mercury & Kurt Cobain
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Sex, Durgs & Music Twiggy
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Fat-Shion INTERVIEW
Rich Lown
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They Velvety Voice Patty Lee Taiwan's Next Top Model
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EVENT REVIEWS
Blur & Noel Gallagher
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Tha Vaccines & Twin Atlantic
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STYLING GUIDE
My Week As Marilyn
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Rebel With A Cause
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Mod Like Twiggy
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Must Go On- Freddie Mercury
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Come As Kurt Cobain
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Wanna B Mel B
75 INSPIRATION
The 90's Kids
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How Did
ICONS OF
POPULAR CULTURE FROM THE 1950S TO THE 1990S INFLUENCE FASHION?
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1950 T H E B R O K T H R U L E
Y E E S
Words
Dylan Tang
Photography & Stylist
Dylan Tang
Makeup Artist
Joan Chieng
Model
Liv Hitchings Alex Atkins
Rebel
During the 1950s, society's perception of men and women's dress was still very fixed and rigid. Women had to wear elegant clothes and look a lady, and men had to wear decent outfits and look the gentleman. Society could not accept people wearing sexy and rebellious clothes in public. However, two Hollywood film stars broke these old traditions and opened up the start to a new chapter for the era: Marilyn Monroe and James Dean. These two individuals of popular iconic status of their time, whose starring roles in the their respective films Don’t Bother to Knock and Rebel Without a Cause, allowed them to play their own uniquely innate characters: the ‘sexy’ and the ‘rebellious’. In the 1950s, the Western world was just coming out of its World War II experience. Everyone had to work, no matter their gender. However, social norms still dictated that it was men who were expected to be the breadwinners, whilst women, even though by then were increasingly entering the world of the workplace, still assumed their proper place was at home. It is for this reason that, despite the media prevalence of movie posters promoting films that starred Marilyn Monroe and James Dean, it was the ‘rebel’ image of Dean that society was quicker to accept in contrast to
resistance in accepting the ‘sexy’ role embodied by Monroe. This was not surprising in the 1950s. Despite this slowness in accepting this new sexy female archetype, there is no doubt that the images personified by James Dean and Marilyn Monroe quietly kicked off the start of a new era, impacting the lives and contemporary fashions of the following generation. Over time, Marilyn Monroe and James Dean's careers flourished, but unfortunate events also took place at this time. Jimmy Dean’s film career ended abruptly after he was killed in a car accident. Yet his death didn’t diminish his image as a rebel nor the influence he projected. As an icon, he left behind a template for youthful rebelliousness that has been continuously idolised and imitated. His costume in Rebel Without a Cause gave adolescents a different reference for their outfits: a T-shirt, leather jacket and jeans. In the era of the gentleman, the style that he embodied in that film gave people a new awareness. The film tells the story of a rebellious young man and explores the conflicts between teenagers and the older generation. It was due to that film that Dean became regarded as the most influential icon of an era.
Top: ZARA Jewellery: Tiffany
Marilyn Sexy
By contrast, although an icon of popular culture in the fifties, Marilyn Monroe was shackled down by the still-conservative expectation of what a woman’s role in society should be. Not helping her reputation among conservative scrutiny, her private life was many times intruded upon and exposed by paparazzi, and in December 1953 she became the first cover girl for Playboy magazine- a commercial move that caused her to be regarded further as an ‘indecent’ woman. Few people know Marilyn’s complete story. Many only know of her scandal with President Kennedy and the other various other relationships she had, along with her two marriages. But her success was not only due to her ‘sexy’ image, but also her behaviour. She wasn’t afraid to be herself at a time when society was still largely traditionalist. Marilyn Monroe’s influence is still felt today, such as in the hash-tag Free the Nipple, whilst numerous celebrities continue to emulate her style in public. The recent Free the Nipple on-line phenomenon has been widely discussed by everyone concerned with photos that liberate the chest.
Despite the fact that we are in 2015, many people are still feel that a women’s body is still surround by a conservative atmosphere. Sixty years ago we had a woman who challenged society and successfully broke the rules of the 1950s. ‘Sexy’ is still a word that can be equated with Marilyn Monroe, with her style emulated by many, and her courage inspiring many others. Due to James Dean, This younger generation began to wear clothing that was in opposition to their parents’ socioeconomic values: the garments of labourers, farmers, and soldiers- in other words, the social ‘underclass.’ However, the ‘Rebel’ image didn’t only affect men, but also women too. Rebelling against middle-class values and prescribed lifestyles, teenagers, especially young women, rediscovered themselves in androgynous ideal of beauty which blurred previously set markers identifying the sexes, rejecting them as constricting and clichéd roles. Jimmy Dean’s legacy lived on in the 1950s and became a phenomenon in Hollywood in general, influencing spectators and mass media. His style of dress became a standard representative of the classic rebellious style.
''All those lines and ridges in undergarments are unnatural and they distort a girl, so i never wear them'' - Marilyn Monroe
Jacket: Strelleson Shirt: Sisiley
It can be said therefore that James Dean’s ‘rebel style was not merely confined to opening up a rigid 1950s society to a new look and feel, but it is also a style that is still equated with the idea of rebelliousness even today. For example, the rock star wearing leather is still synonymous with a rebellious image; the ‘bad boy’ image of guys wearing leather and jeans in the street when smoking and chatting. In East London we are given warm welcome to the representatives of subculture when we often see shop window displays of leather and jeans.
Coat: Strelleson Shirt: H&M
It is no surprise that the sexy and rebellious styles and social atmospheres of today are still greatly influenced by these two Hollywood actors more than half a century after they were active in their careers. Their mark on the world continues to be felt. Today, women have started to consider that they too have the right to show their bodies in different ways, breaking the roles imposed by a chauvinistic society.
MERCURY
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Drugs & Music
Words
Dylan Tang
Photography & Stylist
Dylan Tang
Makeup Artist Model
Joan Chieng Johnny Shiper Alex DF
Who says rock music can not support the right of love?
For most people, rock and roll is filled with sex and drugs.But is there anything else that this genre brings with it? When Nirvana and QUEEN hit a generation of listeners in the 80s and 90s, the younger generation of the 2000s may not have yet been born, but the lead singers of both of these bandsKurt Cobain and Freddie Mercury- left an extraordinary impact upon the next generation. No matter from which sides of the Atlantic they came from, these two iconic artists, from two very different legendary bands, had an influential impact on the popular music sceneof the 80s and 90s. Kurt Cobain’s grunge punk gave this world extraordinary affection. He didn’t care about the other stuff. The only thing he cared about was that, ‘He desired to have his own family’ (Courtney Cobain: 2014). One music reviewer commented on Kurt Cobain’s legacy, stating that ‘Nirvana’s influence on young people is as important as The Beatles’ influence on young people in the 1960s.
On the other hand, Cobain also showed his opinion of sexual orientation. ‘’I would like to get rid of the homophobes, sexists, and racists in our audience. I know they're out there and it really bothers me.’’ as quoted in SPIN (1992-01). If we are to talk about sexual orientation, how is it possible to not mention Freddie Mercury? Freddie Mercury was not merely homosexual, in fact, his sexual orientation was bisexual. Based on this psychological factor, it impacted his performances unlike other singers of the 70s. It turned him into an icon of popular culture in the 70s. Even Kurt Cobain admired him and once declared, ‘I feel guilty beyond words about these things. For example when we're backstage and the lights go out and the manic roar of the crowd begins, it
doesn't affect me the way in which it did for Freddie Mercury, who seemed to love, relish in the love and adoration from the crowd, which is something I totally admire and envy.’Freddie Mercury’s outfits were also radicallydifferent to mostother rock musicians of the 1970s. He didn’t merely dress himself inplain shirts or leather jackets when on stage, but instead attired himself in an array ofcountless styles and fancy colour. This style contributed to his rise as an artist of pop icon status. By contrast, Cobain’s fashion was not as expressive as Freddie’s. He is generally thought of as inheriting the rebellion of the 1950s, exemplified in items such as the Breton Top- the signature choice of the likes of James Dean and Kurt Cobain.
''It's better to burn out than to fade away.'' -Kurt Cobain
Shirt: Pretty Green Jeans: Strelleson Boots: Dr. Martens
In fact, Freddie Mercury gave popular culture tons of elements and outfits, from his stage costumes such as his harlequin leotard, to his glam shag makeup, both of which went on to constitute an iconic style of the seventies. ‘The seventies saw colour in fashion come to glorious fruition as part of an extrovert look that had not been seen since the Incroyables.’ To sum up, it can be said that their respective styles changed the fashion industry of their era. ‘Boutiques and smart menswear shops were out; ex-army stores and workmen’s suppliers were in.’ However, Mercury and Cobain’s influential peakhit a wall after the former ’s sexual orientation and Cobain’s drug addiction began to be reported on in various mainstream media outlets.
A lot of the personal side to Cobain’s life is revealed in the documentary, Kurt Cobain: Montage of Heck, which is currently the only film officially authorized by his former wife,Courtney Cobain. It charts the development of Cobain’s musical talent, from his early childhood years to the Kurt Cobain of Nirvan as we know him today. Mercury’s private life also attracted a lot of attention. In contrast to Cobain, he remained publically ambiguous on the subject of his sexual orientation. In December 1974, when asked directly, "So how about being bent?" by the New Musical Express, Mercury replied, "You're a crafty cow. Let's put it this way; there were times when I was young and green. It's a thing schoolboys go through. I've had my share of schoolboy pranks. I'm not going to elaborate further."
But regardless of how negatively people attempted to define Kurt Cobain and Freddie Mercury’s lives, it is undeniable that they both offered new spirits to popular culture. This is especially true with regards to their influences on both music and the fashion industry. Cobain may not commonly be thought of as having had any significant connection to the world of fashion, but what is clear is that he literally gave both fashion and music a new energy. The bridge between fashion and Freddie Mercury no doubt was stronger, arguably due to his stageshow clothing extravagance and his sexual orientation, and even musically too, his influence upon contemporary artists, such as a signer Adam Lambert- who seems to be guided by Mercury’s sharp shadow- is clear.
'' I t d o e s n' t a f f e c t m e the wa y in which it did
Freddie , who seem Mercury f or
to love, relish in the love and adoration f rom the crowd, which is something I totally admire and envy.'' - Kurt Cobain
Shirt: Pretty Green T-shirt: H&M Jeans: Strelleson Boots: Dr. Martens
Words
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Nika Mamonova
Makeup Artist
Joan Chieng
Illustrator
Model
Liv Hitchings
Photography & Stylist
Backy Tsai Dylan Tang
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The sixties scene and its fashion, in a comparison to the fifties and the wellgroomed image brought by the Dior’s New look, made a contribution on a massive scale to the nowadays’ consumerism realities and impacted the world as we see it now. A newly established, at that time, social class of young people, changes in the economical and political scene led people towards a revaluation of what is considered as beauty, perfection and its standards that significantly impacted culture and fashion. Paris lost its power and so did haute couture. The formation of prêt-àporter and mass production of clothes made its own contribution that has driven the youth culture to flourish. Consequently, that meant that novelties were now available not only for a privileged few. The rise of the first post-war generation: teenagers and working class of young people, who were earning money themselves, has formed a new market. Their open-minded, “throw-away ” attitude has changed the society and the attitude to life in general.
Teenagers and young people were not obliged to look like their parents anymore as new fashions were not replicating the clothes but, instead, were offering a completely new look. From that point on, it was not about having good origins either; new, rebellious ideas and attitude started to play a key role in one’s success. The interest that has shifted from the fifties’ aristocratic, sophisticated look and classical, feminine beauty, which was often achieved with help of a cosmetic surgery, moved towards a youthful, immature and a boyish look like Twiggy possessed. It all seemed “real” and to a particular extent, it was true. When looking at Twiggy, you can often see a lot of movement that is going on: she is depicted while smiling, dancing, jumping, cycling and having fun. That was her twist and this spirit has been embodied in her carefree, live, slightly naïve attitude in photographs. Suddenly models became considered not as unknown women without an identity, nor not
as human mannequins without personality. On a contrary, their peculiarities became their vital distinction. Young girls could easily associate themselves to that image of Twiggy, rather than with those delicately groomed models in static poses shot by Irving Penn in the fifties. The success of Lesley Lawson’s look is neither a surprise nor a coincidence. It is not that icons did not exist before; idols have always been a cornerstone in most of the societies. However, the images of pop icons and, as Warhol would frame it, “superstars”, became not only widely recognised but possible to replicate. Girls could “read” and understand the meaning behind the pictures. The lifestyle seemed tempting, thus acquire the same look in terms of clothes and consequently, acquiring a similar body, seemed the right way to achieve the same lifestyle. Despite the fact the media has started to promote looks that people could afford, Twiggy’s look had implemented dramatic changes that entered personal space of our bodies and particular
expectations on how we suppose to look. It is important to highlight that Twiggy naturally has possessed a child-like, thin, boyish body. While her body type started to become more fashionable, it also steadily was becoming a standard expectation for those working in the model industry. Shortly afterwards, a certain pressure to meet these particular standards has been advertised in the media through images and editorials and thus affecting circles outside the fashion industry. Despite the fact that it all has started with carefree, real personalities like Twiggy’s, she was one of the first ones to set the bar that, on a long-term perspective, led to very contradictory consequences. We can see that images appearing in the media speak to young women on a daily basis, setting not only new standards but slowly taking control over their lives too. Needless to say that when it comes to a “fashionable body”, things might go wrong. A long-term obsession with a particular body shape that
is still being advertised in the media, does not seem as positive as one might think it is in the beginning. As we constantly encounter imagery from fashion editorials and high-end, luxury ad campaigns the predominance of a particular body shape is obvious: it’s always slim, very fit and without any imperfections. If models’ bodies have something to do with the reality, the question is: why do they hurt majority of young women that feel obliged to acquire the bodies that they see in the glossies?
WThe very attractive image of a fit body creates nothing but fatal beauty. This is the concern of the 21st century and the legacy that we are left with after Twiggy has set the very high bar. Many young girls and women have to fight and go through struggles in order to feel comfortable with the bodies that they have. Ironically, those images of slim, androgynous bodies seen in the media often have nothing to do with our reality, as they are often digitally manipulated and are not published unless they are retouched and approved to go live. A truly iconic model, Twiggy’s appearance in the fashion scene has epitomised a fresh start and new way of lifestyle. Her look embraced youthfulness, playfulness and freedom, however, as we move on, we can see that a very high standard she has set up does affect
daily life of those who are not icons, nor superstars but normal people aspiring to have the life of those whom they see in glossies. After anorexia became such a common thing amongst teenagers and after so many models have been and still are affected by particular expectations, it seems that people start to realise that these things cannot be overlooked and someone had to take care of them. Fashion will always change, however there is a limit when it comes to a “fashionable body.” There are people that fight against all the things that lead to “fatal beauty.” Looking at the FAT-shion illustrations, for instance, or editorials with plus-size models, reading books like The Beauty Myth by Naomi Wolf, shed the light onto the other side of the issue. This all helps to keep faith that the topic about the extremes will soon be widely discussed
and young girls would not be under pressure anymore. We need to admit that the “norm” that is being advertised in the fashion media is a pure fiction, however Twiggy has always been and still remains a very unique exception. The sixties period, indeed, has changed the way how we know fashion now and allowed us to enjoy all the best the industry has to offer.
Interview
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L o w n Photography
Dale Weeks
“Rich has one of those relaxed, velvety voices that just commands respect. You have to respect a voice like that.” -BBC 1.
Could you tell me about your new music you are going to release?
My new EP is entitled ‘Take Me Home’. It’s basically a collection of songs that reflect the last year in my life. Some good experiences, some bad. Some of the songs are related to relationships and the title of the EP ‘Take Me Home’ is a song about where I’ve grown up and the connection I have with my town. I like to think the songs are my strongest yet and they are building great momentum before I release them next month. I can’t wait! 2.
How are you different from other musicians in the UK? (Could you give me some examples.)
I like to think I have my own style and originality. I haven’t ever had any lessons in playing instruments or singing so my song writing is as natural and intuitive as it can possibly be. I think this helps me stand out amongst other musicians. I have also never had any interference from any third party so again my music is exactly how I want it to be. 3.
Who influenced your music?
Firstly, writing music is my way of release. It’s my way to get things off my chest and deal with the turbulences of life so life itself is my biggest influence. Secondly, the consistent encouragement and support of my friends and family help me every day but musically I listen to a lot of other songwriters. Particularly artists like Passenger and John Mayer. Artists with a gift for words and melodies without their songs being over produced. 4.
What do you wear when you perform? (Could you give me some examples?)
I never over dress for stage, I tend to dress how I would if I was going for a drink or on a date and as natural as I can. I tend to wear skinny jeans and trainers with a T shirt or a shirt. A relaxed look is important as my music is very relaxing.
6. Here are five images of well-known people from popular culture from the 1950s to 1990s. What’s your opinion about them and their influence on the fashion industry?
Marilyn Monroe
James Dean
Twiggy
Freddie Mercury
Kurt Cobain
I think all of these icons have massively influenced people in their own rights. From the long hair of Kurt Cobain helping define Grunge and Rock music to the natural beauty of Marilyn Monroe. Women always want to look like her even today.
' WORLDS APART' Released on 21.September.2012 5. Can you tell me your initial thoughts about how music and fashion are linked? I think like I say it’s important to dress in a similar sense to how your music feels. I wear relaxed clothing as my music is relaxing. I like that Ed Sheeran is a good example of this. He often wears hoodies on stage and dresses in what he feels comfortable in. It’s important to feel comfortable on stage and at home, that way you give a much better and more natural performance. 7. Some brands link clothes with musicians and their performance. (E.g. Valentino with MIKA, Tom Ford with Justin Timberlake, Pretty Green with Hidden Charms.) What do you think of this practice? I think it’s important for these brands to endorse these celebrities as celebrities are always in the public eye. They are role models to young people and people always look up to them. By getting these icons to wear particular clothes or wear particular fragrances, it helps boost sales and reputation. Hopefully I can gain some endorsements soon as shopping can cost a fortune! 8. Audiences are not only focused on music but also notice musicians’ outfits when they attend a gig. Do you think it is necessary that musicians have to please their audiences by their costumes? (Please explain why.) To a certain extent yes, you need to look appealing on stage. You need to look as good as possible as your audiences eyes are fixed on you. I think for girl bands and boy bands, costumes and fashion are a huge part of their show nowadays. To wow audiences with visual pleasure as well as the music help stimulate all senses and give people a memorable experience in more ways than one. 9.
Which band has been impressing you the most during this summer festival season?
I’ve been quite into ‘Years & Years’ this summer. I like their upbeat and summery vibe and the singers voice is great. The melodies are catchy and they are all very talented. There’s nothing I hate more than over produced auto tuned music so I’m quick to notice talented bands who can sing and play properly.
10.
What is the next step for you?
I can’t wait to release my new music in August so I’ll be promoting my new songs as much as possible. I’m hoping to organise a mini tour soon and I’ve also been discussing some exciting deals behind the scenes. So lots of exciting things are in the pipeline. Make sure you like my facebook page for all the latest news and updates! ' TAKE ME HOME' COMING SOON
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Interview
P a t t y
L e e Photography Makeup Artist
Wallace Tsoi Dani Chang
“Taiwan's Next Top Model”
1. When did you discover your talent in fashion? Was very late that I first discovered my talent in fashion during my semi 20s, because I majored in Textile designs as a major part of my design cells are more put to designing patters and working with colours. I first started cooperating with Taiwanese fashion designer Apu Jan as his fitting model while he was still studying in the Royal College of Arts, I wore his designs and gave some suggestions, then slowly I realised my ability to see fashion in a different angle. 2. How are you different from other models? I think I am quite different to other models because I have a very busy life as different characters. I am also a hostess, a member of designer brand, "APUJAN", a blogger, and a baker. I fulfil my life with all different kinds of excitement that brings up my energy, when a person is in good energy, these knowledge will transform into wisdom, helping you walk your life in your own pace. 3. Who inspired you in your fashion career or your performance as a celebrity in popular culture? Issey Miake inspired me in my fashion career, because I reckon they created the most beautiful collections of styles. And as I major in textile design, it brighten up my eyes and broaden my world with a touch of fantasy. 4. What do you wear when you perform? Usually I don't get to choose while I am doing modelling, but when it comes to hosting, I usually get to wear the fashion brand I'm currently working on, which is APUJAN. 5. Can you tell me your initial thoughts about how pop culture and fashion are linked? Fashion combines the elements of pop culture to evolve into their own pieces, which can live with the generation and also go with the pop flow. 6.Here are five images of well-known people from popular culture from the 1950s to 1990s. What’s your opinion about them and their influence on the fashion industry?
Marilyn Monroe
James Dean
Twiggy
Freddie Mercury
Kurt Cobain
To me, they are all characters with bright personality, very obvious style and are all somehow connected to music. To me, pop culture, fashion and music are inseparable.
7.What sort of influence do you think that they have brought to fashion?
They tell the people not to live with what everyone is doing, follow your own steps and listen to your heart. Being true to oneself is encouraged. 8. Some brands link clothes with their performances, what do you think? It's a very bright idea since the audience drawn to their idol mostly have the same preferences to styles, when the crowd has something in common, the strength that draws them together will become even stronger. 9. Do you think it's necessary that celebrities have to please their audience with their costumes? Why? Yes, because costumes that are worn presented to the public represents the celebrity's personality, and draws their audiences' attention. 10. Most impressive fashion brand last LFW APUJAN of course. 11.What is your next step in your career? I'd like to focus on my hosting job. As a host you can really present your value as it turns into a profession.
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Take Me Home New EP Coming soon
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Music For United Kingdom
REVIEWS FEEL THE MUSIC INDUSTRY IN THE UNITED KINGDOM
B L U R
EDITED BY DYLAN TANG
2 0 . J u n e . 1 5 H y d e P a r k
Back to stage, Blur hit the music industry again. Through their last album The Magic Whip, they gave Britpop more material from the Oriental Pearl city, Hong Kong. The greatest band from the 1990s in the United Kingdom, their music style is different from other British bands. On stage, they gave their audiences a new style of Mod. The front man from this band, Damon Albert, crushed the atmosphere every single time when he showed up on stage.
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From his style, he seems as casual as other rock bands in the world. He no longer wears a shirt or an oversize coat. In contrast, he wears T-shirt and jeans instead. However, you can still observe that Blur's fans continue to adore what Blur brings to them.
'THE MAGIC WHIP' Released on 24.April. 2015 Blur is back, what's the magic in this albumn? Why Hong Kong could helped them finish this magic albumn?
Noel Gallagher's High Flying Birds 1 0 . M a r . 1 5 T h e O 2 A r e a n a Noel Gallagher is from another great band in the United Kingdom. Many people have adored this band since the 90s. However, Oasis is not like Blur, they flipped few years ago. Fortunately, the older Gallagher has not disappeared from the UK Chart. He still composes good songs and performs to his followers. On 10 March 2015, Noel Gallagher led his band Noel Gallagher's High Flying Birds at The O2 Arena in London. From the beginning, many people were not only expecting Noel to sing his new tracks from his new album Chasing Yesterday but also desired he play some classic songs from Oasis. He did not disappoint his fans. He sang the Brit-rock anthem Don't Look Back In Anger and that night claimed himself 'A genius'. People are not only crazy about his amazing songs but his humour and style. According to observers at the gig, it was not surprising to see that people wore the Union Jack and Kahki Hooded Jackets. Since Noel Gallagher first stood on the stage ten years ago, ' C H A S I N G Y E S T E R D AY ' his style has definitely influence society through his music. As Richard Wright said from his book MOD From Bepop to Britpop, Britain's Biggest Youth Released on Movement, '’(...) they all created a contemporary version of Mod Style (...) by 27. February. 2015 disconnecting themselves from foreign influences.’’ The second albumn from Noel Gallagher. Through this masterpiece, Noel Gallagher became a style rather than a guitarist from Oasis anymore.
THE VACCINES
0 8 . A p r i l . 1 5 The Electric Brixton
Justin Young, the frontman of The Vaccines, told NME magazine ''I look at Muse, Coldplay, U2, The Rolling Stones and think: 'I want to be as big ' E N G L I S H G R A F F T I ' as them''' People started to guess how would Released on this band achieve their dream? 22.May.2015 However, they didn't let their fans down. They In this albumn you will used 'London Swing' power to prove that they suprise that this band not still could give new stuff to the music industry. only founded in London but also combine London In English Graffiti, they get rid of the old image energy in this albumn. of this band. When they held a gig in Brixton, London, their stage design was more energetic than before. The evidence was shown by their fans. Ninety per cent of audiences were teenagers, their clothes were colourful. For example, girls wore crop tops and leggings, boys wore shirts but fancy colours. Hence, in the Electric Brixton, it looked like a London Swing carnival but a new style version. This band proved that they are not only a rock music band but also link where they are from, London, to create a new revolution of music and 62 fashion.
T W I N AT L A N T I C 0 7 . M a y . 1 5 The O2 Brixton From Scotland, Twin Atlantic was not merely showing their talent for music but also brining Scottish style to the world. If you have seen their music video, it's not difficult to see all of them wore Dr. Martens. In the music and fashion industry, many brands usually sponsor specific bands or singers to promote their products, Dr. Martens included. This band may not be the most popular band in the UK but their style could be the strongest in this country. Through this album, their style hit a peak in their career. The gig was held in the O2 Brixton. This place is not as big as the O2 Arena but it is still big enough for the band from north of the border. In their latest album, it's not difficult to find their classic material of music. You can also find the message they try to present to all ' G R E A T D I V I D E ' citizens of the United Kingdom. The most important issue between Scotland and England and whether Released on they should separate was headline news. However, 28. April. 2015 one of their song in the Great Divide 'Brothers and Sisters', it seems like they try to tell all of people D i f f e r e n t w i t h o t h e r in this country ''All of us are brothers and sisters.'' s c o t t i s h b a n d s , Tw i n Hence, whether Twin Atlantic got the huge fame in At l a n t i c t h ro u g h t h i s the world or not, they did build the sander is that albumn gave UK another music is not only about love but also have to convey voice from the North. the message of the society.
DRESS LIKE ICONS Illustrator Words
My week as Marilyn
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Filipa Chagas Jennie Barck
Marilyn Monroe is so legendary that her name is synonymous with glamour and old school Hollywood sex appeal. Her troubled personal life was always conveniently kept hidden from the public eye and paparazzi, which is why she stayed as the perfect pin-up girl until her tragic death.
Marilyn was a movie star above all and therefore had an innate charm and attitude about her, which made her way of dressing even the more alluring. If you have ever tried to dress like an iconic fashion personality, you will know it is easier said than done. The amount of thought that goes into reproducing a timeless look without falling into cliches and looking costume-y should not be overlooked. Her becoming a fashion icon was somewhat of a mistake and was based on her provocative way of dressing that was quite new and shocking in the otherwise modest fifties. In iconic photographs of her, she sports a great deal of kitten heels, hip hugging dresses, high waisted shorts and trousers, cropped turtle neck sweaters and capris. She even accessorized her bathing suit look and loved wearing corsets and winged eyeliner; attributes that all have a seductiveness about them. Nobody compares to Marilyn's legendary style and effect on society at her time however. Guess also has that 50s pin up look with off the shoulder tops and corsets that Marilyn was known for, and styles their models in a very similar way.
Everyone from Kim Kardashian and her phase with blonde locks and reputation as a sex symbol and Kate Upton with her corsets and curvy body have been seen rocking the Monroe look.
To understand and reproduce her intrinsic sexiness, one has to find the clothes they are comfortable in. Marilyn walked her own path and didn't listen when people told her to smile in a different way; she felt comfortable in her own skin and the clothes she wore and that if anything oozes the confidence people strive to grasp. Always be aware of the effect you have on people, especially men and show confidence in your feminine curves and you are halfway to becoming Marilyn.
The next most important thing is getting the actual look. Nothing compares to wearing a classic red lip; the confidence it gives a woman is irreplaceable and Marilyn knew this and swore on its timeless allure for many years. Capri pants may be out of fashion right now but cigarette trousers would be a fitting modern substitute for the curve embracing classics. Crop tops are firmly staying in fashion but leave something to the imagination; perhaps opt for a longer sleeve or s turtleneck like Marilyn. To keep yourself fabulous on windy shores or on a road trip wrap your hair into a silk scarf, spray some Chanel No. 5 and slip into your favourite heels; they will give you an instant confidence boost.
At the end of the day there are p l e nt y o f ways o f c h a n n e l l i n g your inner Marilyn, but the rule of thumb is to remember style is about attitude more than what you wear and most importantly, diamonds are a girl's best friend.
Rebel With A Cause An actor in only three movies in his lifetime and dying at the young age of 24, James Dean managed to become a respected actor and become a world renowned icon in a very short period of time. As a teenager in the 50s, he was at the forefront of the creation of teenage culture and style. For the first time, teenagers were dressing in a way that distinguished from their parents, and rebelled against the conservativeness and close-mindedness of society at the time.
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What we today consider a basic look (jeans and a tee), was something different and exiting when Dean first wore it; it gave teenagers the freedom to dress in a different way and look like their own generation, separate from kids but not yet grown ups. Even though his look was so simple and laid back and he was a surprising fashion icon in that sense, there is no denying the fact that he had an intrinsic eye for what looks good on a man. He did not aspire to be an icon with his choices of clothing; they were a symbol of rebellion and emphasized the restlessness of youth.
The acclaimed fashion icon James Dean is known for his aloof attitude and effortless style built upon classic staples. However, for James Dean it's not so much about what you wore than it was about how you wore it. When beginning to reproduce his iconic look, you will have to consider if the clothes fit the vibe you're giving and your personality. Luckily, there are a quite a few looks that will suit any man and some variety whether you want a preppy boy look or a more of a rebellious biker look.
Some factors to consider are giving off a self-assured vibe that let's people know you don't have to give any consideration to the way you dress; your good looks just come naturally. Remembering not to overdo it with your accessories and not wearing too much colour or a mishmash of patterns is important.
Some staples to get started with are a black biker jacket, the perfect pair of dark Lee jeans and a crisp white t-shirt. If you've got this look figured out, you can opt for a solid dark coloured polo or a Breton stipe sweater and pair that with sunglasses that exude a nonchalant attitude. Finish the look off with classic loafers and you've got an effortless look that will show people that the man comes before the clothes. As the first Hollywood star that dressed in a way that was different from their parents, James Dean has had a huge impact on the way males dress. James Franco is known for channelling the casual cool masculine look that James Dean was known for. Johnny Depp also has that non-confirming attitude and a ruggedness that shows the coolness comes naturally and nothing about it looks forced.
Mod like Twiggy Her style is centered around her dolllike eyes adorned with long, thick eye lashes, sleek and short haircut and thin legs covered with an A-line miniskirt. She was very youthful and you can see this in various shoots of her riding bikes and being playful and quirky. Something she always lived by was the idea of less is more; Twiggy was definitely not a fan of fussy details and different textures; she preferred a clean cut shape and minimal accessorizing. If there was to be an accessory it would be the Chelsea Boots, knee high socks or bold earrings. She incorporated androgynous looks into her style as well like men's hats, ties and waistcoats. Twiggy also didn't have the need for a bra so she enjoyed the privilege and embraced her flat chested body by not wearing bras, which became the desirable bodytype for teenagers in the 60s.
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If you want to look like Twiggy, it is important to remember she was extremely thin and not everybody will suit the same clothing as her childlike bodytype did. You can pick and choose aspects that will suit anybody, such as the legendary eyelashes, gamine haircut, chelsea boots or simply wearing psychedelic colours and bold 60s style prints. The miniskirt, made famous by designers such as Biba and Mary Quant, would be fitting for petite girls in the 20s or younger. Take into consideration the A-line shape and you could rock a midi skirt in the same shape with a graphic 60s print; the resemblance to Twiggy’s style would already be obvious for some. Bright colours always work in bringing a youthful look, but you can make it more modern by doing an entire outfit in one colour like a bright red.
Modern equivalents to look to that have similar style, as Twiggy are Emma Watson when she got a cropped hairstyle. They are both active and young, have gamine body types, represent the British aesthetic with classic items and both like experimenting with androgyny. The sixties trend has been influencing designers season after season, but Miuccia Prada is the most well known fan of the look. She brings out versions of the shift dress in various ways and adds embellishments and varies between different delicious colours. At the end of the day, getting the right beauty look is quite important in capturing the essence of Twiggy; it all started with the lashes. She was just experimenting with her look and all of a sudden it was deemed beautiful by the public. Remember to try different things and see what works best for you and brings out your youthfulness.
Must Go On The lead singer of the esteemed band Queen, he had the chance to wear flamboyant stage costumes at their concerts on a regular basis and flaunt his incredible style.
Freddie Mercury, performer by nature, was one of the most legendary singers that ever lived. He was the epitome of extravagance and glam rock. A lot has been written about his abilities as an artist and a stage performer, but his personal style is also notable.
It is hard to put Freddie Mercury's style into a category or describe his wardrobe since it was so diverse and extensive. He did however have an aptitude for brightly coloured military jackets in his concerts, h i gh wai sted j ea ns w i th whi te singlets and embellished belts as well as fur, feathers and sequins. He would wear diamond adorned unitards with platforms or a simple tee and leather shorts combo and always look extravagant. The best word to sum up his whole look is glam-rock, but it went beyond that and was category and gender defying. It has been said that Adam Lambert is the modern Freddie Mercury, and stylistically you can see the influence he had on Lambert with the daring looks including heavily embellished jackets, as well as Michael Jackson with his military jackets and dance movements.
Before even beginning to copy Mercury's look you have to get into a certain state of mind where the w o r l d i s y o u r s t a g e a n d y o u a re re p re s e n t i n g y o u r ra w c r e a t i v e e n e r g y w i t h e a c h e n s e m b l e y o u p u t t o g e t h e r.
Freddie Mercury The ensemble does not have to have anything to do with current trends, but it could perhaps be commenting or partaking in a social or political issue. For example simply wearing a jacket that harmed no animals in the making could be making a statement. If you want to be more daring and
make a clear statement you could be provocative by wearing a print tee with typography against child labour or oil fracking. To support transgender rights and at the same time reference Mercury's famous music video, as a male you could dress up head to toe as a female or pull something feminine, such as a floral print cardigan. You could also raise awareness of cancer by wearing pink; the opportunities are endless. To honour Mercury's memory you don't have to copy an outfit; simply showing interest in for example the Victorian era like he did with all its ornaments and details is enough.
The most known look worn by Freddie is perhaps the yellow embellished military jacket he wore with white trousers in the concert at Wembley. When reproducing Freddie's style you do not need to wear an exact replica of his outfit, merely capture the essence of his style. When displaying a degree of flamboyance or showmanship, one is already letting their true Mercury out. Follow your instincts with your choice of clothing and choose a character or an ideal that you want to represent for the day. This way you show respect to the memory of Mercury and let people know you have the creativity to make the look your own.
Come as Kurt Cobain
Kurt Cobain might not have anticipated becoming the fashion icon of a generation, but that is indeed what happened. The lead singer of Nirvana died tragically early, but left a legacy and an iconic style behind. The careless grunge style where anything from a second hand shop could be made fashionable was the category he was put in. An abundance of loose sweaters, plaid shirts, ripped jeans and even floral print dresses dominated his wardrobe. Perhaps the reason he was such a success as a fashion icon is because he simply did not care about what anyone thought of him, and wore exactly what he felt comfortable in. Or maybe the secret lies in the fact that he openly spoke up about feeling alienated from the rest of the world and a bit left out made him sort of a sympathetic character to the general population and someone they could trust and relate to.
Whatever the reason, his style made grunge the most dominant fashion movement of the 90s and it is still being replicated and used as an influence for many designers and celebrities alike. Marc Jacobs created an (unsuccessful) grunge inspired line to try to bring it into high fashion. Celebrities like Robert Pattinson can be said to have been influenced by Cobain with the laidback plaid and jeans look and general non-conformist nature. It's a bit of a long shot, but Cara Delevigne has been seen as a different kind of model with her silly faces and chilled out look, and Cobain was also one of the first rock n roll stars that had a softer look and stood out with it. To look like Kurt Cobain, the first thing you have to do is hit the fleamarkets, second hand shops or charity shops. This way you are being sustainable and eco friendly and you are more likely to find some gems that nobody else is wearing; the key is to look like your own person. Once you start pairing things together, make sure you are not choosing colour that balance well; the messier and mismatched the better. Combine different textures and prints, combine old and
new and if you dare, combine women's and menswear. Just because you are a rebel doesn't mean you have to wear only black and look hardcore. Don't listen to what others have to say about your style because at the end of the day, what does it matter? Rebel against the norm, don't conform and create the new cool. If you are sick of skin tight clothing, layer up. If you don't feel like yourself anything you find, make it yourself. The opportunities are endless.
Wanna B Mel B? O n to p o f t h at s h e wa s h i g h l y regarded for her 'horns' that she made on her head when she was feeling particularly devilish. She had a remarkable afro that fit her wild personality and fierce clothing ensembles. Not backing away from colour, she was at the forefront of making a generation excited about outfits that their parents would not necessarily approve of.
Mel B, also known as Scary Spice, was a member of Spice Girls and a fashion icon for bored teens in the 90s. She religiously wore leopard print, platforms, catsuits and crop tops with wide, funky cargo trousers.
A n o t h e r a f r i ca n a m e r i ca n 9 0 s icon was Brandy, famed for her braids, Naomi Campbell who was at the center of the new wave of supermodels, Erykah Badu with her turban as a headdresses and ethnic dresses, not to forget Lil Kim with her outrageous looks that shocked the public. These icons were taking over like a storm during the 90s and inspired with their individualistic style. S h e was al so a p art o f a l i tt l e something called the British Invasion with the Spice Girls, and this time it was the second wave. They become world renowned through their hit single Wannabe, and soon their perky, youthful style was recognized worldwide. It was something a little more relatable for teens and the bright colours and rough and ready look suited their needs. This also made wearing the British flag anywhere possible or even a necessity: tops, trousers, handbags‌
Most importantly, Mel B swore by the power of the crop top and she wasn't seen without it unless she was rocking a leopard print catsuit. When you start recreating one of her iconic looks, you have to keep in mind it can be adapted to suit the trends of this century. You can mix and match 90s trends such as the platform shoes (that have come back to fashion) with a crop top and high waisted shorts look to bring the look to this era. A touch of leopard print never did any harm, but instead of going full leopard you could flash a bit of it in a patch on your shorts, on a handbag or perhaps some leopard print stilettos.
The return of 90s trends is going to be working in your favour and chunky trainers will always be available in shops; it won't be a struggle to find something to wear. Instead of a full on catsuit you could opt for a romper or pantsuit for a toned down version but pair it with either platforms or 90s style trainers. Be fierce, daring and show your raw animalistic energy. Once you've got that sorted, all you need is a cropped tee and let your hair be wild and free and you've got yourself a killer Scary Spice look.
The 90's Kids
If you're a 90s kid that wishes you could have been old enough to wear crop tops and platform shoes, it's not too late to get on the Spice Girls bandwagon.
Words
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Jennie Barck
Photography & Stylist Dylan Tang
Makeup Artist Model
Joan Chieng Laura
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