EDITOR'S LETTER The Bard of Fashion 聽 著 blur 的 專 輯， 我 常 常 思 考 著「 是 什 麼 樣 的人生經歷，可以讓一群大男孩鄙視當下的生 活？」 因 此 臺 客 雜 誌 的 做 出 了『Modern Life is Rubbish』的刊物。 畢竟什麼是完美？什麼是現實？為什麼所有的人 都在追求一個毫無瑕疵的形象呢？現實中的我們 又是什麼樣子呢？ 我們都被這個社會改變太多了，我們忘記我們從 何而來，而且忘記我們將到哪裡去；我們不想屏 棄當下但同時卻又回頭緬懷過去以及探頭期待未 來，我們已經忘記了摩登生活的美好， 因此 Modern Life is Rubbish 沒有辦法翻譯，也只 能透過自身經驗的體悟來解釋這一句話。
When I played the album ‘Modern Life is Rubbish’ by the band Blur I was thinking, what happened to these young men? how did they make this album at such a young age? so I decided that ‘Modern Life is Rubbish’ will become the first issue for TAIKER magazine. In our society we are always questioning what is perfect, why do we pursue a flawless image and how we look in different perspectives because we have changed so much in our society and culture, we forget our origins and become lost on the paths we are walking on, however we reflect on our lives to expect something to happen in our future all the time. The best thing in our life is missing or we forget how to find it, Modern Life is Rubbish is a sentence I am unable to translate in traditional Chinese because it’s a phrase that we only can explain by our experiences.
Contributors
GRAPHIC DESIGNER
Art Director
ILLUSTRATOR
PHOTOGRAPHER
Yen-Fen, Wen
Tai-En, Chiang
Filipa Chagas
Adam Lorens
Taiwan
Taiwan
Portugal
Spain
JOURNALIST
JOURNALIST
PR Executive
PR Executive
PR Executive
Cindy, Huang
Kanndiss Riley
Doris Chang
Grace Lee
Gram Chou
Taiwan
United Kingdom
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
C
o
n
t
e
n
t
s
Frank Turner 法蘭克透納
10
Reality Ken 現實肯尼
22
Aboriginal in Taiwan 臺灣原住民 Cheer Chen 陳綺貞；移動的房間
34 44
My Golden Age... 我的黃金年代
52
Who's Happening.... Triangle Fine Wine Bottle Art JLIN Kewpie UTC 聯夏食品
62 64 70 76 80 84
How to dress like...
90
The Haze of Eden: Eva 伊甸園的陰霾 : 夏娃
94
Frank 法蘭克透納 11
Bard of Rock Music
搖滾詩人
Words
by
Frank
Turner
&
Dylan
Tang
P h o t o g r a p h e d
b y
L o t t e
S c h r a n d e r
在臺灣，人們稱你為『搖滾詩人』請問你對這個稱號有什麼看法嗎？ 從我出道開始，我已經被冠上很多不同的稱呼了，但是這個倒是新的一個，我很喜歡， 我想我很樂意被這樣稱呼。 你的每一首歌都有一個故事在背後，請問你的故事是怎麼收集來的？又怎麼決定哪種故 事你會想用在你的歌曲裡？ 多數的歌曲都是出自我的人生經歷，我並不會為了作歌而去虛構故事，當然，有時候因 為隱私，我會做一些修改，但是每首歌基本上都是出自真實的故事。每個故事也都是透 過我的眼睛及我的耳朵收集來的，這些故事如果成為歌曲，都是因為他們值得透過歌曲 傳唱，也有那一份價值。 什麼事情是你在最新一張專輯 『陽光歌頌』裡頭想要傳達的呢？ 這一張專輯是關於“整理好過去重新出發”的歌；前一張專輯 『磁帶驅動的心』則是關 於崩壞離析的生活，其實就是關於我曾經崩壞離析生活中的一段時間的故事。而這一張 則是關於在那段時間後存活下來的故事，關於你如何在廢墟中走出且撣除身上灰塵的故 事。有點像是 「儘管你在人生的低潮時，仍然可以保持樂觀。」的專輯。 可以請你從這張專輯選出三首歌嗎？三首你覺得可以代表給正在低潮的人的歌。 『Get Better』這首歌我會說算是這張專輯的主要概念，不管是在歌詞上、弦律上都是「我 會努力讓自己更好，因為我知道我還沒做到最好。」『Glorious You』是一首我寫給我姪 女的歌，因為她曾經有過非常艱困的一年，我因為想幫助她所以我寫出了這首歌。最後， 『Love 40 Down』這一首歌是在演唱會清單中歌曲，其中的故事是描述一位在網球場上 失利的人，但是他在放棄之前決定讓自己奮力一搏。 你會如何描述你的生活風格呢？ 我是個活在路途中的人；當我十六歲的時候，我舉辦了我的第一場巡迴演唱會，從那之 後我就不間段的表演了十三年。我從不活在框架裡，我活出我自己的風格；身為一個以 演出為職業的人，我熱愛演奏音樂、熱愛旅行，這樣的生活並不適合全部的人；事實上 這樣的生活非常困難，但是我非常幸運的可以用這樣的生活風格生活下去。 你曾經有在人生中迷失嗎？ 我曾經在我年輕的時候迷失過，因為我曾經有過酗酒的問題，不過音樂的陪伴，我結束 了那一切，而且讓我回到了正軌上。 什麼是你理想中的世界呢？ 我不太確定在 “理想的世界” 裡面有什麼，但是我對我現在的生活非常的滿意，雖然這聽 起來有點自私，不過我不想嘗試想像一個理想世界給別人，這個行為對我來說太傲慢了。 你覺得在我們的社會中，音樂是最而有力的武器嗎？ 我認為音樂非常具有力量，但是我不會形容音樂是一種武器，因為音樂是一種對生命的 評論，是一種生命的溝通，也是一種靈魂的安慰劑。 你同意“Modern Life is Rubbish” 嗎？ 我不完全同意；對我來說，我寧願活在現在而非過去。人們對過去有太多過度浪漫的情 懷了，他們似乎都忘了我們的生活有著許多問題，例如：初生嬰兒的死亡率，疾病以及 飢荒 ... 等議題。我們的世界的確不完美，但是我們也不會讓這個世界更糟下去。
P h o t o g r a p h e d
b y
N i c o l e
C .
K i b e r t
P h o t o g r a p h e d
b y
B e n
M o r s e
In Taiwan people are describing you as the ‘Bard of Rock Music’ do you agree with it? I have been called many things in my career. That one is new to me but it's kind of poetic, I like it, I'll take it. Every song you have produced has included a story, how did you collect and decide what type of stories you desired to use for your songs? Most of the songs I have written are autobiographical, I've not done much straight fiction. Of course some details or whatever will be changed, both for the sake of the song and for the sake of privacy; but generally they're true stories. I guess I keep my eyes and ears open for things that are worth discussing in song, worth singing every night. What’s the message you wish to send from your latest album ‘Positive Songs for Negative People’? It's a record about trying to put things back together. The preceding album, "Tape Deck Heart", was about a break-up, it was about a time in my life when things were falling apart. This record is about surviving that time, about crawling out of the wreckage and dusting yourself down. It's kind of optimistic, amidst the ruins. Can you pick three songs from this album, which you believe represent songs for negative people? The song "Get Better" kind of sets the scene for the album, both musically and lyrically - "I'm trying to get better because I haven't been my best". "Glorious You" is a song I wrote for my cousin, she had a tough year and I wanted to talk about helping her out. And then "Love 40 Down" is a set-piece song, it's a portrait of someone who is about to lose a game of tennis very badly, but decides to give it one more push before giving up. How do you define your lifestyle? I live on the road. I did my first tour when I was 16, and I've been touring full-time for 13 years now. I live out of a suitcase, I work as an entertainer, I play music and travel, and I love it. It's not for everyone, and it's pretty hard physically, but I feel very fortunate to live the life I do. Have you ever lost your path in life? I have had rougher times in my life, I've had issues with drinking and so on when I was younger, but music has always been there for me in the end, to keep me on the path. What’s your ideal world? I'm not sure I believe in an ideal world really. I'm pretty happy with the way I've set my life up; that sounds selfish, but then I wouldn't want to be so hubristic as to try and organise the world for anyone else. Do you believe music is the most powerful weapon in our society? I think music is powerful, I'm not sure I'd rush to describe it as a weapon. Music is commentary, is communication, is balm for the soul. Do you agree with ‘Modern Life is Rubbish’? Not particularly. I'd rather live now than almost any other time in history. People romanticise the past way too much; they forget about infant mortality, disease, famine and so on. The world isn't perfect now, of course, but we're not doing too badly.
Photographed
by
Brantley
Gutierrez
REALITY KEN 現實・肯尼
Words
Kanndiss Riley
PHOTOGRAPHY & STYLING MAKEUP ARTIST MODEL
Dylan Tang Jo Chiang Chris
這是肯尼，我的男朋友；我和他的生活看起來非常的完美，他和我一起住在一棟亮麗的 粉紅色房子裡，而我是一個事業與生活都美滿的人，一切看起來就只有完美能形容了。 但是在完美的表面下，肯尼其實是一位老菸槍、脾氣暴躁，甚至會暴力相向的人；我的 完美生活最終還是被現實打擊到了。 在現在社會上，透過肢體上的動作、喝酒、抽煙似乎是對男性情緒起伏上唯一的正解， 因此我們常聽到『去跟那群男孩打一架吧！』這樣的社會觀念可能都只是一個意識上的 問題。而影像裡呈現的事一位喜歡時尚的男性，已經準備好展現毫無瑕疵的形象卻因為 有感的社交文化而變得一般；因此這就可以解釋為什麼在影像裡的肯尼抽煙、動粗，以 及擁有不可一世的表情，因為都是來自於現實生活上給予他的自覺。 當芭比成為這個世界上最有名的洋洋娃之後，這四十三年來她夢想中的房子以及完美的 男朋友肯尼一直陪伴在她的完美形象裡；然而，芭比與肯尼的關係已經開始搖搖欲墜， 因為這幾十年來肯尼完美的形象開始流逝，全是因為他再也無法守住他的原則；保持完 美的原則。當現實生活碰上完美肯尼的時候，他感覺他在社會上、文化裡和身為名人完 美的形象已經落伍了，現實生活把他的生活步調加快速度並且賦予他衣櫃裡新的服裝和 截然不同的個性。 現在社會中年輕男性的特點包含了 - 吸煙，暴力和態度輕浮，並非所有的人包括所有的 這些特質，但是有這些有這些特質的人都是因為想要擁有響亮的名氣以及展現自己的陽 剛之氣。
Coat: ALL SAINT
Meet my boyfriend Ken, we live in a pretty pink house and I have 150 jobs on my resume, but there's something you don't know about Ken which is the fact he is a smoker, turns violent and has a shit attitude, my dream house was where we were meant to live our perfect lives but shit happens and reality hits in. The image shows a man who is meant to have an interest in fashion and personal grooming but portrays an average casual male, fashion conscious and unfazed by social culture, it would seem fitting for him to smoke, act violent and dismissive because in modern male culture men express their emotions through physical strength, this would be described as ‘enjoying a good fight with the boys’, male social concepts would be drinking, smoking and little time spent dwelling on the important issues manifesting within themselves and others around them. Meanwhile, Barbie grew to be the world’s top doll and for 43 years Ken has been her dream house boyfriend, however Barbie’s relationship with Ken shows signs of falling apart over the decades as his image has not grown or evolved so his principles have diminished, reality meets Ken in the feature Modern Life is Rubbish by TAIKER. Society, culture and celebrity status makes Ken Carson behind with the times when it comes to bringing him up to speed with a new wardrobe and personality, loud, laddish masculinity, smoking, violence and poor attitude are the features of male youth today, but not all men consist of all these qualities.
Jacket: Whistles Pants: Rageblue Shirt : Vintage Shoes: G.H. Bass
塑膠玩具在一九六一年的美國家庭中崛 起；女性娃娃的形象每一年都在推陳出 新，但是男性的呢？為什麼男性的形象 沒有辦法跟著生活進步而改變呢？我們 的社會什麼時候才能有對於男性有著理 想 化 的 身 形 呢？ 居 住 在 巴 西 聖 保 羅 的 Rodrigo，就是一位活生生的肯尼娃娃， 他前後動了四十二次手術來讓自己看起 來完美；因此，他的外觀看起來的確像 是一個塑膠玩具，一個可以與芭比娃娃 媲美的玩具。不過，如果肯尼真的出現 在現實生活裡，或許也會對他的性向產 生疑問，因為他可能會發現他只是一個 沒人喜愛的偶像；更就現實層面來說， 他可能會面臨到他在家庭裡的地位不定 以及他生活中所缺乏的不安全感。 另一方面，玩具的不正常體態也多次在 法庭上爭論過；因此，這幾年芭比娃娃 的身體已經做過多次修改來符合現實生 活中女性的形象。但是，肯尼呢？男性 去動整型手術的比例在近幾年來越來越 高，而想要長得像肯尼娃娃的人也不勝 枚舉。不論是在社群網站上讓自己的照 片看起來無可挑惕的完美及時尚以外， 現實生活上的人們仍然對抽菸以及暴力 在生活上充滿著多數。而這些就是在現 實生活上我們常稱的 『老兄』『伙伴』。 曾在醉後大丈夫裡演出 Zach 的布萊德利 庫柏，曾被選為賓州的大眾情人，而他 的形象正好符合現實生活中男性的形象， 他抽菸、行為衝動以及不可一世，這些 行為或許不是那麼時尚動人或者像白馬 王子一般的迷人，但是他還是成為大家 心目中的情人，因為這就是現實生活中 的一部份，沒有人是完美的，就連完美 的肯尼也會有現實的一面。
Recently Ken is grappling with his sexuality and finds himself in a loveless relationship with male doll icons, he also struggles with his position in the household and faces his lack of authenticity. Rodrigo from Sao Paulo Brazil is a living breathing Ken Doll, a man who has had 42 operations to become perfect and his appearance resembles the toy doll created to be the male counterpart to Barbie, ‘fantastically fashionable and accessorised’ with Barbie. Throughout the disputes in courts about the toys with aesthetics that are unrealistic in appearance there have been some changes, in recent years there has been modifications to ensure that Barbie represents a worthy female icon of equality, the difficulty I find is that nobody has asked about modifications to Ken. Recent figures on male grooming, plastic surgery and celebrity culture could suggest that the Mattel male doll has a bigger role to play in cosmetic masculine image, many men in the media are being captured in impeccable grooming fashion but the reality is that the majority are smoking, being portrayed in a violent nature and dismissive, these attitudes are believed to be realistic associations for 'Dudes', ‘Lads’ and ‘Guys’ today. Mattel toy doll introduced Ken Carson in 1961 to a growing American family and over the years the female conception has changed but the male image has not, so how does a doll construct modern tags when society is so comfortable with having ideas of perfection as an image so idealising?Male actor Bradley Cooper who is known for his performance in the Hangover movie portrays the Pennsylvania state heart throb, this is another example of a modern male icon since he smokes, becomes violent and is portrayed to have a shit attitude. These concepts and portrayals are not fashionable, physically attractive or the attitude of prince charming, nonetheless still a beloved star much like TAIKER’S Reality Ken who is a similar Model.
Bag: Jamie Wei Huang Pants: Rageblue Shirt : Vintage Shoes: G.H. Bass
臺灣原住民 x 現實生活
臺灣原住民是在這片土地生活最 久的靈魂：摩登生活與原住民的 文化背景是否能夠在生活上取得 平衡？透過照片來呈現這個極端 的衝突感，他們不是弱勢族群也 不是表演的玩物，在現代的建築 裡、摩登的夜店裡，原住民穿出 他們傳統的服飾活出屬於他們自 己的摩登生活。
Aboriginal in Taiwan x Modern Life
Aboriginal in Taiwan is the purest soul in this country but are we able to get a perfect balance between traditional culture and modern life? the images for the following pages are showcasing that they are not in the bottom of the pyramid, they are not for entertainment value. In our world and attending the best bar, they present their lifestyle and how they have fun in the rubbish world.
PHOTOGRAPHY MAKEUP ARTIST MODEL
D y l a n Ta n g Zoey Yang & Doris Chang 巴查克 & Renee Lin
移動的房間
being, not being
Words by
D y l a n Ta n g
「也許追尋的過程、放棄的勇氣，迷戀著永遠無法完成的旅行， 走在一段沒有盡頭，了解自己的路上，就是旅行的意義。」- 陳綺貞 陳綺貞，每個臺灣人在青少年時都會哼上她的一首歌，不管是當時對 愛情的懵懂無知還是對社會行為的一知半解，陳綺貞的歌曲總是能帶 給每個正在茁壯的年輕人一個撫慰的力量。 距離陳綺貞上一張專輯『時間的歌』到現在已經相隔了三年，每個人 都在期待陳綺貞的全新作品以及回歸，因為對這一個世代的台灣人而 言，我們的青春裡都有著屬於陳綺貞的一個房間。 今年七月，陳綺貞回到了觀眾面前；不過，這一次她不是帶著全新的 音樂而是帶著透過解構的力量的影像讓觀眾更貼近他的內心與想法。 「創作是危險的，有時會忘我到讓所有人擠滿我的床舖，有時又必須 容許自我大到漫溢出自己的房間。」 - 陳綺貞 『移動的房間』是一個解構陳綺貞生活的展覽，就像是將一塊拼湊完 整的幾何拼圖重新拼湊，而在過程中我們檢視每一塊基本的物件如何 完成一個完整的拼圖。 身為一個臺灣流行文化的指標，出道 18 年的陳綺貞，除了有歌手的 稱號以外更有人稱呼他為一位藝術家，因為她不僅為臺灣的文化立下 標竿，更在渾沌的現實生活中保持自我。 『我自己就是一個房間，一個移動的房間』
- 陳綺貞
‘Losing your courage that may be happening on the journey. obsess the unfinished dreams, a journey without an end perhaps is the meaning of travelling.’ -Cheer Chen In Taiwan, each adolescent can sing a song from Cheer Chen. Her songs have a power which can point a path to their souls, no matter if they are looking for the answer of love or the art of how to act as an adult. Songs from Cheer always heal souls when they need it, since her latest album ‘Songs of Transience’ it has been three years since her fans have heard any news from her. Due to Cheer being an icon of popular culture, everyone is expects that she resumes her career and carries on playing music, hence this July she finally resumes her career however, she isn’t going to play music this time. Instead this is an exhibition of her works from the beginning. ‘Creation is dangerous. Sometimes I ignore everything. Sometimes I care about anything.’ -Cheer Chen ‘Being, not being’ is an exhibition taking place by Cheer Chen from July to August in 2016, this exhibition people will be given a chance to observe her work since her album debut which was eighteen years ago. Her massive work will be showcased in pieces because she deconstructed everything.Audiences of this exhibition will be able to puzzle all of the pieces and construct a new face for her. She is also known as a singer but her fans recognise her as an artist, people respect her and have not forgotten who she is and always follow what she wants in this chaos world. ‘Being or not being, i’m the only one who knows this rule.’ -Cheer Chen
陳綺貞創作展 『移動的房間』 展覽日期：2016/7/1-2016/8/31 展覽時間：10:00~18:00（17:30 停止售票及入場） 展覽地點：華山 1914 文創產業園區 中 4A 館 主辦單位：添藝文創事業，寬宏藝術經紀股份有限公司 ※ 購票請洽 : 寬宏售票系 kham.com.tw 洽詢電話 07-7809900 全國萊爾富 Life-ET、OK 便利商店
我的黃金年代 My Golden Age... Dylan Tang PHOTOGRAPHY MAKEUP ARTIST Jo Chiang MODEL Barnabas
My Golden Age is a collection about a man who showcases his facial style from young to old. When you were young you came to London to pursue your dreams, you dressed as a hippie and you imaged the day was coming soon, the day when you truly succeed in your life. After countless years your business has grown stable and your appearance becomes different, you are not dressed as a man who lacks experience and your clothes have matured far beyond your expectations. You have grown older but your skin is not smooth anymore, when you look into the mirror you see wrinkles reflecting from it, although you don’t look young anymore your eyes have become wise, that’s the why you started to offer your advise to adolescents. What is given to you by somebody else you have paid back to an adolescent.
Coat: Strelleson Shirt: Ilaria Lepore
”我的黃金年代“ 關於一個人由年輕到年老的系列照片；當你年輕時， 你隻身前往倫敦去尋求更好的生活以及條件，你穿著不可一世態度 的服裝，你想像著有一天你能夠獲得真正的成功；幾年後過去，你 的事業穩定的發展，穿著也已經趨於成熟，你已經不再像一個極欲 成功的法老了，反而穩健踏步的走向未來的人生道路；當你年老時， 你的皮膚已經不再緊緻反而有多處的皺紋，但是因為歲月的累積、 經驗的堆積，你能夠透過眼神清楚地看透一切，因為你已經過了你 的黃金年代，現在正是你給予正在經歷黃金年代的人們智慧建言的 時候。
Shirt: Ilaria Lepore
Coat: Strelleson Pants: Ilaria Lepore
Coat: Ilaria Lepore
社會進行式
Who's Happening....
Triangle
Morgan Boudet
Dreamers
TAIPEI EXPO PARK, Taipei 圓山花博廣場
TriangleTaipei
From Taipei's Paris Night, what's the motivation that made you launch the symbolic events in Taipei? Greg and I, as two normal young guys, have always liked to go out at night. After some time, we realized that most of Taipei’s clubs were lacking music diversity. And because our living room was too small to welcome all the friends we wanted to drink with, we decided to find a bar and host a party as a try. The concept was simple: French wine and a mix of all the music we liked.Beau bar was the first bar we landed on and 100 people came! Taipei’s Paris Nights was launched. Then, we were going to choose a different bar every month and little by little TPN was growing. Since 2012, Taipei's Paris Night has created several events, do you have the one which is the most impressive to you? We stopped at most of Taipei’s greatest bars: Barcode, LMNT, Marquee, HALO, Beau, Opium Den and many others, but to us, the most enjoyable ones, were the “Paris 1920” in Barcode which was an incredible night with almost everyone following the dress code, and the “Lost Island” at ATT4FUN rooftop! You can find all the pictures on our Facebook page. After Taipei's Paris Night, Triangle has operate since the 1st September of 2015, could you tell mewhat's the different between Taipei's Paris Night and Triangle? Martin Fang, from Maji Maji (where Triangle is located), gave us the opportunity to take over Triangle which had been running for almost two years although the business was quite slow and only open few nights in the month. By running Triangle, we finally have complete freedom. A freedom we were not always having when we were talking to the bars in Taipei when organizing Taipei’s Paris Night. Triangle is our living room, but bigger and much more equipped, we have one of Taipei’s best sound system, and a good enough capacity to hold amazing parties. Every day is a Taipei’s Paris Night! How will you describe the lifestyle of Taiwanese? Do you think they are similar as French or completely different? Taipei’s night life and the French one are similar in the sense that everybody wants to have fun. But we don’t have fun the same way. In France, we like to visit several bars in one night, and end up in a club later at night, we like standing up, discussing to anyone standing beside you at the bar. Going out in France, something unexpected will always happen to you. But most of all, we don’t really like to make plan, we just go wherever the wind blows. In Taiwan, people prefer to plan their night in advance, book a table at one club or book a room at a KTV. If you call them the same day to go out, you can be sure they already have a plan! Have you ever faced challenges since you launched Triangle? Running Triangle has been a pleasure, and we haven’t faced any big challenge so far. The only challenge is to keep bringing new promoters and customers every week and keep finding great ideas to make this place unique. What's the different between Triangle and other bars in Taipei? Triangle is a family bar, your next door bar where you will hear music from House, to Reggae, Japanese Pop, Disco, Hip Hop. We don’t fear new or crazy ideas, we look for them. If you want to organize an event with us, we will never say no. And if you stay late, when the DJs
finish their set, you might here the last man standing playing some song from his mobile phone! Coming there, you will probably have drinks with the bosses and their friends, and when you are tired of the music, you just have to step outside in the quiet Maji Maji and finish your drink and have some fresh air with the people talking in front of the door. Triangle is in a very quiet area surrounded by parks where you’ll find the privacy you seek on a bench under a tree few steps away from the bar. What is Triangle's next step? Will Taipei's Paris Night back to Taipei's nightlife? For now, we want Triangle to be one of the most entertaining and happening bar of the capital; we are working on it and can already see the results. Triangle is much more popular now that it was 7 months ago.If we need to leave Triangle, the next step would be to maybe find other partners from the industry and open a new bar, more central, a kind of Brasserie/Bar/Club where you could go anytime of the day and enjoy it. Finally we will soon launch again the monthly Taipei’s Paris Nights. Just stay tune and follow us on Facebook: wwwfacebook.com/taipeisparisnights and ww.facebook.com/triangletaipei!
什麼樣的動機讓你成立了臺北巴黎夜這個象徵性十足的社交場合呢？ 動機其實很簡單『喝著法國的紅酒，聽著我們喜歡的音樂。』 Greg 跟我，我們其實只是兩個喜歡晚上出去的年輕人而已。但是我們發現，臺北播放的 音樂太缺乏多樣性了，儘管我們想要在自家客廳邀請朋友來聽喜歡的音樂、喝喜歡的酒 空間還是不夠，所以我們決定找一間酒吧，自己去外面辦活動！我們第一間活動在 Beau Bar 舉辦，當天有一百左右的人到場，然後就在當天晚上「臺北巴黎夜」成立了！而我 們從那一天開始每個月都會在不同酒吧舉辦不同的活動。 自從 2012 年開始臺北巴黎夜舉辦過無數的活動，哪個活動是讓你最印象深刻的呢？ 我們在很多不同地方舉辦過活動，例如：Barcode, LMNT, Marquee, Halo, Beau, Opium Den…等，但是印象最深刻的就是在 Barcode 舉辦的 ”巴黎 1920 “ ，因為現場的每個人都 遵守了我們規定的服裝風格，所以整個場合看起來非常的壯觀，另外在 ATT4FUN 的屋 頂派對也是讓我很回味的！這些照片都可以在我們的臉書專頁看到！ 在臺北巴黎夜之後，2015 年的九月一號 “Triangle”誕生了，請問兩個有什麼不同的地方 嗎？ Triangle 已經是我們基本活動的地方了，說是我們家的客廳也不為過，只不過場地更大 設備更好，我們有臺北最好的音響設備還有每次都讓人驚豔的派對；在運行 Triangle 的 時候我們有完全的自由，這種自由跟之前的臺北巴黎夜有很大的不同，畢竟這是我們自 己的地方；因此有了 Triangle，每天都是臺北人的巴黎夜也不為過！ 也非常感謝 Martin Fang, 給了我們這個機會營運 Triangle, 雖然我們每個月不是天天都有 營業，但是我們在這兩年也成長不少。 你覺得臺北的生活跟法國有什麼相似或者不同的地方嗎？ 我覺得臺北跟法國夜生活裡的共通點就是尋求一個“開心”，只不過我們追求的方法不同 而已。在法國，我們喜歡在一個晚上拜訪不同的酒吧，然後選一家夜店待到整個夜晚結 束；我們喜歡站著、喜歡在吧台旁跟任何人聊任何事情，但我們對晚上其實沒什麼計畫， 我們通常隨心所欲的決定晚上的活動，去一趟法國，你會發生很多你意想不到的事情！ 在臺灣，大家都喜歡事先做好計劃，例如在 KTV 訂位，在夜店訂好包廂，所以當你有 一天在臺北被約出去時，基本上你已經是在計畫裡的一部份了。 在營運 Triangle 時，你有遇到過什麼樣的困難嗎？ 目前為止我們沒到什麼太的困難，我們非常感激這一點！如果真的要說的話，那就是我 們無時無刻都在想要怎麼樣這個地方更特別！ 你覺得 Triangle 跟其他家酒吧有什麼不同嗎？ 我們是一個全方位的地方，每個不同類型的音樂你都可以在這邊聽到，不管是 House, Reggae, Japanese Pop, Disco, Hip Hop…等；我們從來不侷限在一個框架裡面，甚至當你 待到 DJ 都走的時候，你也可以用你自己的手機放自己的音樂，而且我們從不拒絕任何
合作的方式。來這裡你可以跟任何人聊天，認識朋友的朋友；如果你突然想離開音樂的 氛圍，外面的 Maji Maji 市集就是你短暫休息跟呼吸新鮮空氣的地方，Traingle 被環繞在 一個幽靜的環境裡，因此如果有時候你想靜一靜，我們旁邊就有很多椅子提供你在享受 夜晚的安寧。 Triangle 的下一步會是什麼呢？臺北巴黎夜會再回到台北的夜生活嗎？ 在現階段，我們想讓 Triangle 成為臺北生活娛樂的最佳選擇，而且我們也已經慢慢往這 個目標邁進了，因為跟七個月前比起來，現在 Triangle 已經是一個非常熱門的地方了。 如果我們有一天離開了 Triangle, 我們的下一步或許會尋覓一個新的場地吧！一個可以讓 你在那邊待上一整天也不會迷失的地方。 臺北巴黎夜將會在近期重新開始啟動！只要在我們的官方臉書專頁搜尋就會得到我們的 最新資訊！ 臉書 : wwwfacebook.com/taipeisparisnights or ww.facebook.com/triangletaipei!
Flat Wine Bottle Art
Heeling Lin
Flat Wine Bottle Art 手工窯燒酒瓶藝術
2F, Creative Boutique, Taipei 西門町紅樓 16 工房 2F
Product Designer
Flat Wine Bottle Art 的設計理念是什麼呢？ 是一個環保的概念，結合再生藝術，利用窯燒熱塑的技術再製變形，酒瓶也能用另 一種方式存在與善用，永續使用與收藏置入於生活美學當中。 所以這是一個可以客製化的商品？ 是的，如果客人想要有想要收藏及做紀念的酒瓶，例如 : 特殊年份的紀念酒…我們 都可幫他保存下來。而且最重要的是一點也不占空間，還能做居家裝飾。 請問你是怎麼收集到這些酒瓶的呢？ 酒瓶都是我自己或者跟家人朋友喝完後保留下來的，或是每次出國都會到處去酒莊 或專賣店帶很多特殊酒款回來，大部分也與一些代理酒商合作。 請問你進入設計產業多久的時間呢？ 已經將近十年了。
What is Flat Wine Bottle Art’s Brand DNA? Our DNA is all about environmental protection, our products are made by kiln and thermoplastic which means I give these bottles a new life and a new function, they will never be wasted instead, they will live forever and be a lifestyle piece which in art field. So they are customisable? Absolutely if people want to reserve their memory bottle or keep a bottle to remember something, Flat Wine Bottle Art has ability to make their dreams come true the product we have made is not a space waster, it can transform into a decoration. How did you collect these bottles? Most of them were from my friends and my family, some special bottles were from winery and we cooperate with people who are running their wine businesses. How many years have you been in the design industry? I’ve been in the design industry for nearly ten years.
對於臺灣設計產業的環境，請問你有什麼想法嗎？ 前幾年臺灣的設計產業很不被重視跟不被尊重，例如削價的習慣。這對我而言這就 是剝削設計師專業的行為，也非常不尊重設計師。但是這幾年，臺灣很扶持文創產 業，舉例來說臺灣這幾年的創意市集在亞洲已經打開知名度，之前我是從事廣告設 計跟繪畫的專業，當時非常的辛苦，工時長薪資少，客戶也會不斷的拖延與砍價， 這樣的行為常態很容易消磨掉設計師的熱情與專業，因此在重新出發後，這樣的產 品設計，在臺灣打出了一個新的市場。而我也很滿意現在的工作型態。 所以你認為臺灣的民眾現在已經對藝術的專業已經有一定的瞭解，且也開始尊重設 計師了嗎？ 是的，臺灣是一個很有創造力的國家，資源也很豐富，隨手可得的素材都能創作出 很棒的藝術品，許多創意市集的竄起就能突顯出台灣民眾對於藝術產業的支持，而 每一個專業領域都需要大家去認識細細的感受，才知道其中的甘苦。 像你剛才提到，這幾年政府開始扶持文創產業後整個產業有往上提升，所以你覺得 政府的支持是有幫助的嗎？ 我覺得是有幫助的，目前我們位於西門紅樓的店面就是在臺北文化局的審核下才擁 有的，在早期我是以在創意市集擺攤的方式進行販售，也常常要看天氣出攤，非常 不穩定，而我的商品屬於高風險易碎品，常常在來回上下推送貨物時，造成意外破 損。現在有了實體商店後，不僅商品樣式更齊全和安全，也提供客人更寬廣明亮的 空間，能更全方位的跟客人互動，討論客製商品 可以請你介紹商品嗎？ 我的產品分為吊飾，時鐘，盤子，以及現在與乾燥花結合的系列，因此和我的一個 好朋友花藝師合作出新的商品設計。像是扁平式的花器，與吊掛的裝飾吊瓶不凋花， 目前只有 Flat Wine Bottle Art 生產獨賣。 目前有讓你最滿意的產品嗎？ 酒瓶時鐘跟酒瓶燈是我最喜歡的產品，他們除了裝飾也最具有功能性，也是家庭必 備商品，送禮自用都非常有意義。 下一個設計系列的走向？ 手繪！我們將會保留酒標，進行手繪的創作，像是聖經的創作，將經文手繪上去， 因為酒瓶在中文裡面有諧音長久 ( 酒 ) 平 ( 瓶 ) 安的意思，賦予商品的獨特行更高。 對新銳設計師的話 做任何事一定都要有決心，一旦知道自己要什麼之後，全世界都會幫你開路。 不要盲從，保持自有的風格，時時刻刻警醒自己要像個孩子對身邊的任何事物擁有 好奇心，不停的學習，到最後會發現每一個經驗都是最好的收穫。
What’s your opinion of the design industry in Taiwan? Well designers did not really get respect from their clients in the early years, as we were asked to decline our price of service, from my personal opinion this behaviour is very disrespectful. When I was an entry level designer, I was advertising design and illustration fields and it was a tough year, our duty hours were always long and our payment was under the average however, since Taiwan’s creative markets have got more attention in Asia and our government started supporting this professional couple of years ago, designer’s relationship with clients are nurturing better now. We have earned more respect from clients and customers now, for me this is a huge improvement and I’m happy with it. Do you think people in Taiwan are acknowledging ‘Art’ as a professional field and respect designers more? Yes, I do think so as I mentioned before, creative markets in Taiwan are getting more attention and it’s not only in Asia but also in Taiwan as well, I believe it’s because of everyone’s acknowledgement and support for us rather than just a broken promise. Due to Taiwan becoming a country of having numerous talented designers from east to west, north to south, everywhere could inspire designers to create amazing works and that is the reason. Let’s talk about supportive strategy by the government in Taiwan, do you think they are helpful? Definitely take Fine Wine Bottle Art as an example, we were a brand which was based on the street, we took risks when we were promoting our products however, we now have a store at Red House in Ximen District. It’s all because of the Department of Cultural Affairs in Taipei City Government, they verified our brand and provided us a bright and spacious place to promote our products, that is why we have been able to communicate with our costumers and offer them a good service. Could you please introduce your products to me? My products are categorised as charms, clocks and plates, I also have work with dried flowers, the collection of dried flowers is co operated with my friend who has a flower business. At the moment costumers only can find these special products at Flat Wine Bottle wine. What are your most satisfying products? The bottle clocks and bottle light’s are my favourite, they are not only for decoration but they also have functions due to the fact they are very basic homeware so for me these products are the most meaningful to me. What is your next step in design? Painting could be a next step because Flat Wine Bottle Art always keep the labels on bottle, however I will add painting on the further collection like a phrase from bible, the reason as to why i’m doing this is because ‘Bottle’ in Chinese has a metaphor as ‘Safe’ and ‘Peace’. What advise would you give to designers who want to develop their brand? If you want to do something you have to keep it in mind and follow that idea, once your determination is unbreakable then you will gain the helping hands from the world, however you cannot do something without your style, you have to do something that makes sense otherwise it will not be original and nobody can relate to your work.
Fashion Designer JLIN
Lin Lin
zhenlin0
JLIN 品牌的品牌理念是什麼呢？ 想要創造一個個性並且舒服溫柔的服裝風格 所以你剛才描述的服裝風格會影響到你的設計嗎？ 當然，JLIN 用極簡風帶出個性，並且帶出自信。我希望透過我的設計展現出每個人的個 性；真正的個性！因為我很喜歡 「少即是多」這句話，所以 JLIN 的風格真的也非常的 簡單不浮誇。 現在 JLIN 只有在製作女裝，你有想過要往其他服裝做發展嗎？ 最一開始是製作女裝，不過 JLIN 的願景將會是 女裝，童裝，男裝 JLIN 這個品牌是在倫敦成立，我們主要的市場會是在亞洲市場，因為亞洲人常常盲目追 求潮流，對自我文化的不認同，對我而言，時尚不只是盲目地追從而是瞭解自己的個性。 所以 JLIN 表現出來的事，時尚不只是價錢的表現，是個性上的表現。因為時尚是來自 於自己的個性，所以 JLIN 能帶給消費者的是尊重她們自己的風格。 從英國學習服裝後回臺，你覺得服裝產業在兩國的不同？ 我覺得差異非常大，在英國有許多獨立設計師品牌，因為大家對年輕人對於自己的夢想 有一個支持，反觀臺灣，甚至亞洲，整個服裝產業相對擁擠跟競爭激烈，因此在這裡我 覺得跟英國比起來比較沒有自己的個性以及相對沒那麼支持。 所以你覺得臺灣的消費者對於服裝產業比較不成熟？ 我覺得不能說不成熟，只能說相對喜愛機能性的服裝跟對於大品牌的迷思，應該說臺灣 對於服裝沒有自己的風格反而是追求其他風格。 那你覺得 JLIN 能夠給臺灣消費者新的風格嗎？ 我覺得不回給消費者新的風格，而是讓消費者思考自己的風格是什麼。 『初。生』是 JLIN 的第一個系列，偏向單純以及純粹的出發為發想，其中會以純白的 顏色為主。想讓消費者有自己的個性再穿上 JLIN 之後，但是那樣的個性是讓人感覺舒 服的而非刺激性的。 往後的主題會往“一個人從出生到長大的概念”因此每一年的服裝系列就會以成長的方式 呈現。 想跟什麼名人合作嗎？ 珍妮佛勞倫斯，因為 JLIN 這個牌子希望有自己的個性但是是舒服的好相處的形象，而 珍妮佛勞倫斯就是這樣的形象。綺拉奈特莉，因為他不是典型的美女，有著俏皮的個性， 以及讓人舒服的感受，因此這樣的形象也是 JLIN 的品牌特性。陳綺貞以及張鈞寧也都 是。因為外表看起來單純但是有自己的獨特個性。
Can you describe the brand DNA of JLIN? JLIN creates a style which includes comfort, tenderness and unique personality. Will this DNA reflect in your design? Absolutely! JLN’s style is very simple but somehow very confident, I hope through my designs people show their personality, a real personality, due to a sentence ‘Less is More’ I wish JLIN’s style has able to perfectly match this concept. JLIN only has womenswear, have you ever considered expanding in other fields of clothing? Yes I would love to, but JLIN is focusing on womenswear at the beginning because i’m a woman and I know what women want and need when it comes to womenswear, JLIN founded in London but our target market is in Asia due to most of asian are seeking a style from different countries and celebrities, they don’t understand how to dress themselves so for me this phenomenon is a disaster. ‘Style is Your Personality’ if you cannot follow your personality, no matter how expensive your clothes are, you are not considered stylish. So you do think the fashion industry is completely different between the United Kingdom and Taiwan? Indeed for instance, you can easily find many independent designer brands in London anywhere, but you rarely can find one independent designer store in Taipei. I think it’s because the British are always supportive of people if they have a dream where as the Taiwanese are not as supportive, they just focus on making money more than making dreams come true. Would you say that the fashion industry is relatively immature in Taiwan? I wouldn’t say immature, I think Taiwanese people just prefer functional clothes rather than style, besides they are always obsessed with big fashion brands. Let’s talk about your collection, can you describe your first collection? JLIN’s first collection is about ‘First, Born’ which is a metaphor for pure and innocent, every piece from this collection is using white fabric. We are keen to make our costumers understand that when you put on our clothes you will feel comfortable, rather than feeling too fancy or over controlled by the clothing. After this collection we will set up another concept which is a human’s growing up process, we did ‘First Born’ this year so the following year we will have a different idea about after birth. Are you willing to collaborate with celebrities? Jennifer Lawrence and Keira Knightley! They are extremely beautiful but they are not typical beauties in our society. They have their own personalities and they follow it! that’s what i’m very respectful of and these celebrities are perfectly matched to JLIN’s DNA.
Artist Kewpie
羅婕
kewpienail 190, Sec 2, Kee Lung Rd., Taipei 臺 北 市 基 隆 路 二 段 190 號
Kewpie 的品牌理念是 ? 當初只是因為自己的興趣，幫自己做彩繪指甲，但是後來因為突如其來的受到大家喜愛 而開始真正成立這個牌子，因此 Kewpie 的理念其實是，把不相關的兩件事成為一件互 相連結的事情。 不相關的事情連結在一起？ 是的，例如我是美術背景出身的人，光療指甲則是技術取向的職業，所以我將美術以及 沒太大關聯的美甲做出連結。而這樣做下來 Kewpie 也已經成立兩年了。 來聊聊美術吧，你覺得臺灣人對藝術的接受度高嗎 ? 我覺得有越來越高的趨勢，因為近幾年文創的崛起，所以大家對於藝術的接受度有提升， 而且會主動參與藝術。 所以你覺得臺灣的藝術教育是成功的嗎？ 我覺得藝術教育不一定是學校教與的教育，而是從各種層面的吸收。我覺得會受到藝術 教育的人只有美術班的學生。不過，我覺得藝術的教育在臺灣是很合適的；以我來說， 會美術可以做很多事情，類似我的指甲彩繪、雜誌的美編、相關藝術的設計，都是以前 的藝術教育所得來的技能。 你覺得臺灣的藝術產業有在某種程度上被侷限住嗎 ? 我覺得藝術產業並沒有被侷限住，以美甲品牌為例，現在市場上的美甲師已經不再是技 職體系出來的人才能做的專業，而是只要有興趣的人、願意嘗試學習的人都可以做，所 以我才會稱 Kewpie 為興趣與技術的結合而非單純的藝術 = 技術。 想透過 Kewpie 讓藝術在社會上跳出一個框框。 希望 Kewpie 有辦法發揮什麼樣的影響力嗎？ 我覺得 Kewpie 可以讓人瞭解到，如果你想做一件事情，不用怕辛苦，只要堅持自己的 理想就可以完成想做的事情。
What is the idea behind Kewpie? In the beginning I only wanted to make my own nails look beautiful then suddenly I was thinking, ‘Why can’t I make it by myself?’ I can paint anything I want on my nails and my friends and family, they all love it. Then Kewpie was established hence I will say, the idea of Kewpie is I build a connection of two things which are not in the same field. When you say a connection of two different things, what do you mean? I am an art person and I have studied fine art for nearly 12 years however, nail phototherapy is a job which can’t be really link with art, especially fine art.I wanted to build a bridge between these two completely different ideas, so Kewpie has a great reputation and has been founded for two years now. Let’s talk about Art, do you think Taiwan is a country filled with Art? If you asked me few years ago I definitely wouldn’t have said that Taiwan is a country filled with art however, people become more and more knowledgable of art recently so I think it’s because people are embracing the creative industry better than before. Do you think people can succeed in art education in Taiwan? I don’t think of Education of Art at school, in my opinion if you want to gain the knowledge of art you don’t have to go to school to get it. You can learn from our society and culture, however in this case I do recognise the art education in Taiwan because I know art so I have many choices in my career. I can do nail phototherapy, be an editor in a magazine, any work that is relevant in design. But don’t you think that the art industry is limited in Taiwan? They are not that limited in general for example, nail photo-therapy is work which definitely belongs to art industry, as long as you would like to try it and you wish to learn how to do it, that’s why Kewpie is a brand that can never be limited by your knowledge. So, Kewpie is a brand which can evoke to our society? Yes, as I mentioned before, Kewpie can make people realise that if you want to something then don’t hesitate to do so.
UTC
Jack Cheng
Entrepreneur
身為一位企業接班人，繼承的不只是財富而是對於這個社會的責任與貢獻
As an entrepreneur, my legacy is not just about fortune; instead, is the responsibility to our society.
請問你覺得臺灣跟食物的連結？ 臺灣跟食物的連結，我覺得到現在依然以“零食小吃’’為主要的節點，例如夜市的小吃或 者地區的零食產品。不過我覺得現在臺灣對於這一塊需要精緻化並且外銷出去，因為臺 灣與食物的連結是非常緊密而且有能力提升品牌價值的。 請問你覺得在未來的幾年，臺灣的食品產業會面臨到什麼樣的改變嗎？ 在越來越競爭的同時，進入市場的門檻也會往上提高，因為政府對於食品安全越來越重 視。為了提高生產品質來通過政府的規範，大幅增加了生產的成本，因此不管是新的廠 商還是現有的廠商在面臨這樣的嚴格法規的狀況下都會需要重新思考企業的定位以及發 展方向。 中小企業在未來有辦法存活？ 創新！基本上創新可以概括成兩個要點：1. 優化創新＝吸收市面上的概念加上自身的想 法來改進產品。2. 技術創新＝將傳統認為不可能的製造過程應用在工業化生產上，以小 吃零食來說，能夠將在地化的產品做工業化，而口感不會相差太多，這就叫創新。 能在精準的描述創新嗎？ 我覺得技術創新非常難得，在工業革命的黃金期之後技術創新的週期變得更長。優化創 新因為規模可大可小所以天天在發生。我認為能把效率提高的方法就是創新、能說服眾 人改變習慣做法的就是創新。 身為一個 30 歲以下的企業接班人，請問你覺得臺灣的社會結構走向了Ｍ型化，請問你 有什麼看法嗎？ 我覺得這是社會發展下必然的結果，因為資源絕對是往企業家的方向聚集，唯有透過教 育才能改變這個狀況。現在這個時代已經過度競爭，臺灣的年輕人不妨可以出去走走， 去歐美、去中國，看看當地的菁英怎麼利用他們的資源以及能力改變他們身邊的社會。 透過聯夏公司的理念，你覺得有什麼辦法能夠真正的印行企業社會責任呢？ 我覺得很幸運的是，聯夏是一個食品公司，因此可以很輕鬆的透過產品發放來回饋社會， 我們將產品送給偏遠地區需要幫助的人，讓他們能夠得到足夠的伙食。也因為這樣，如 同我剛才提到的，當他們不再為了食物煩惱時，他們才能真正的去接受教育並請把握機 會成為社會流動的一份子。 那你覺得臺灣人對於文化的部分？ 我覺得臺灣人對於文化的思辨能力要更全面，應該要更清楚知道自己想要的是什麼，而 不是只在臉書上看那些轉載後的文章。如果你想要知道外面發生了什麼事情，你應該要 去專門的網站吸收新知，不然很容易侷限在自己的框架裡。 對下一個世代的年輕人想要成立自己的企業品牌有什麼建議嗎？ 品牌故事、企業營運模式是兩個最重要的要素。品牌故事需要深度並且能夠讓消費者能 夠認同，企業營運模式要健全能夠獲利並且有永續發展的能力。我覺得應該要努力做想 做的事情，但是要知道自己是為什麼努力，而不是因為別人說要努力才去努力。
Do you think there is a bridge between food and Taiwan? Yes, they do have a bridge, my opinion is that the food industry in Taiwan still focus on snacks for example, snack in night market or regional food. Due to the intimate relationship between Taiwan and the food industry, these products have to evaluate their value and promote to the other counties. Do you think the food industry in Taiwan will face any drastic changes in the future? The market of the food industry is going to face more competition in the future, companies who would like to enter the market will find it more difficult than before. The reason is that our government is taking the issues of food safety more seriously, so in order to increase the quality of manufacturing the cost will become greater, so we have to rebrand and set a new develop strategy which will be a new challenge in the future for the food industry. How can SME’S (Small and Medium Enterprises) survive in the future? Innovation! which concludes of two bullet points. 1. Innovation with Optimisation: improve your products with good ideas in the market. 2. Technology Innovation: make the impossible to possible for example, when you are doing technology innovation for a snack product you can localise it by putting a new face on it, but you can still have a similar flavour that’s called technology innovation. Can you specify ‘Innovation’? The technology innovation is very rare because of the industrial revolution, the cycle of technology innovation is getting longer than before, on the other hand innovation with optimisation could depend on the scale of different companies, hence it happens everyday and the only way to increase innovation is efficiency. As an under 30 entrepreneur, what is your opinion of the M-Form Society in Taiwan? Taiwan having the M-Form Society is the thing which I can predict because all of the resources are always gathering to entrepreneurs, the only solution is education, our society is over completive so if people have chance especially a teenager, I would recommend them traveling to Europe, The United States and China, they will understand and realise what is the different way to change society. Through the brand's DNA of UTC, what sort of Corporate Social Responsibility is UTC implementing? Luckily UTC is belonging to food field, therefore we could give a feedback to our society through our products, we provide our products to people who live in the suburbs. As I mentioned before the only solution to make our society better is through education, hence when people don’t have to worry about food then they can focus on their education. Let’s talk about culture, could you describe the relationship with Taiwanese culture? People in Taiwan have to live out of their suitcase, if you want learn something you observe it by yourself rather than reading articles on social media such as Facebook, they have to think more comprehensive and tend not to believe everything on internet. Any advise for the younger generations who desire to have their own brand? Brand Story and Business Operate Module are very important, brand story is for your customer to recognise your brand, business operate module is to allow your brand to have an ability to develop sustainability, also you have to put your effort into all the aspects so you gain the product you desire to get in the end, rather than working for someone else.
Dress as an 穿出不完美 imperfect Ken
Illustrator Words
Filipa Chagas Cindy Huang
從 1961 年以來，肯尼就被賦予各種不同的形象與風格；不變的是，他臉上掛著那燦爛而自信的笑容。 還記得 1993 年，肯尼戴上耳環，一改原先設定的性向，穿著帶有同志風格的深紫色的亮皮背心，領口 採用西裝領的剪裁，意外地讓亮皮革材質更加立挺有型；裡面搭上一件半透明的網狀上衣，將肯尼的 好身材展露無遺！此外，高腰剪裁的深色直筒牛仔褲也成功地打造出高挑的比例。「魔力耳環」系列 的肯尼 (Earring Magic Ken) 反而成功地在男同志們中大受歡迎；深紫色也讓肯尼更加神秘，更加凸顯出 他的魅力。顛覆社會對於男性的陽剛形象，Dukie Brown 在 2016 年春夏系列中，展示了一系列性別模 糊的意象。將柔軟寬鬆的綢緞面料和雪紡紗運用在男裝中，打造男子柔情的迷人風格。當模特兒穿上 半透明的雪紡紗，完美地展現男性優雅的體態之美，中性元素的設計也漸漸地在時尚界成為一股趨勢， 充分傳達設計師對於性別偏見的看法。 肯尼在玩具總動員 3 的造型更是大膽前衛，淺藍 色的豹紋襯衫配上藍色領巾，下半身選擇亮藍 色休閒短褲，增添整體的和諧，最後再繫上一條 皮革腰帶。肯尼不僅將亮色系的淺藍做為造型 底色，還大膽的玩起了豹紋印花，最終呈現的效 果竟是如此搶眼卻不突兀，站在芭比旁邊毫不遜 色，也因此成為了許多美國青少年在派對上模仿 的裝扮。 大家都知道紀梵希在男裝上，總是很喜歡在腰 間做變化。例如將寬版短褲，內搭一件緊身褲； 或者長版上衣的及膝下擺設計，種種造型皆打破 傳統時尚對於男裝的規則，甚至讓男裙出現在伸 展台上。今年的春夏男裝系列，紀梵希不但一如 往常地保留男士裙裝，在男裙上更是採用褶皺布 料上增加垂性，弱化男人們陽剛的形象，凸顯男 性的線條之美；讓今年的春夏系列，更符合紀梵 希一貫優雅華麗的風格。 從肯尼身上，我們可以知道，其實，你不一定 要很完美，也可以穿出完美。想要穿出完美，你 只需要放膽地嘗試，將穿搭融入到生活中。當你 意識到自己能夠盡情地展現自信而不再有所顧慮 時，完美便成功地被詮釋出來。
Dress as a fashion aboriginal 時尚原住民 Illustrator Words
Filipa Chagas Cindy Huang
近年來，原住民圖騰成為國際時尚的流行趨勢；伸展台上，許多知名品牌設計師都紛紛將圖騰元素加 入單品中。臺灣這座美麗的小島上，更是聚集了數量眾多的原住民族群。對於純樸的他們來說，圖騰 文化扮演著極其重要的地位；它與部落生活緊密相連著，一點一線皆勾勒著屬於自己的文化，透過圖 騰講述著神秘的古老傳說；黑色、紅色、咖啡色最常出現在原住民傳統服飾中，象徵著智慧、活力與 土地，並加入太陽、月亮與動物等自然元素，向大地訴說自己的信仰。
想要擁有原住民族的色彩風格，卻 又不顯得凌亂。可以利用大面積黑 色做為基底，有如低調的夜晚，完 美地呈現出圖騰的飽滿，散發部落 戰士驍勇善戰的狂野魅力。 因此， 如果你擁有一件圖騰的無袖背心， 卻不知道該如何搭配，黑色流蘇短 褲會是很好的選擇，露出大面積的 腿部會顯得皮膚更加白皙；最後， 再搭配一雙綁帶羅馬平底鞋來延伸 腿部線條，就不會讓妳的小腿空蕩 蕩的了！ 講 到 圖 騰， 不 禁 讓 人 想 起 Emilio Pucci，Emilio Pucci 的成衣系列中， 往往喜歡將大膽奔放的圖騰與柔軟 的絲質布料作結合，營造出慵懶卻 不乏氣勢的衝突美感。今年的早秋 系列，Emilio Pucci 不僅放肆地將圖 騰佔據整件絲綢洋裝外，更是大膽 地將多種圖騰集於一身，有如華麗 的碰撞般帶出宮廷的奢華高貴。此 外，洋裝和單品選擇搭配多種同色 系的圖紋印花，也今年形象照中亮 眼的穿搭技巧！不僅沒有顯得眼花 撩亂，反而還多了點活潑的生機氣 息，實在讓人躍躍欲試！
深色的圖騰內搭褲具有修飾腿部 曲線的效果，搭配白Ｔ和運動鞋， 濃厚的街頭風低調卻不乏味，是 一個不錯的選擇。此外，如果妳 夠大膽，可以嘗試色彩奔放的印 花圖騰。不管是去年秋冬倫敦時 裝週還是今年春夏的米蘭時裝周， 會場外都出現不少圖騰長裙或寬 褲，只要隨手搭配一件有質感的 素面上衣，便能將整體穿搭得時 尚有型！飄逸的裙襬襯得圖騰鮮 豔醒目，寬鬆下半身已漸漸成為 時尚界不分男女的穿搭重點；此 外，高腰的穿法能拉長比例，有 了它，誰還敢說寬褲只有高個子 才能駕馭？個子不高的你更應該 試試！
The Haze of Eden: Eva 伊甸園的陰霾 : 夏娃 PHOTOGRAPHY Adam Lorens MODEL Eva Fernandes
In the shoot I show the interplay of human vices and basic desires. In my recent work I try to explore how we discover ourselves by allowing our darker side to take over.
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